Used catenary few weeks back for garden lighting with tensioners it worked a treat . With it being an armour I think I’d have went Down and under the slabs but never the less good job as per usual bud 👍👍👍
We have a Compton Garage from before they became Legit Compton and it came supplied with rectangular brackets. Holes at both ends allowed you to use the existing concrete panel bolts to secure these brackets to the wall. The other end to secure battens etc. that you could then mount a piece of wood to for electrical accessories etc.
@@cprfenomI try not to be judgemental online, especially when I'm not a qualified spark. But i have to say, I could never have left that like that myself! Such an easy fix to run them next to each other and be tidy? Also again, nothing against him as customer wanted it, but personally think that flexi looks awful / bodge job myself in a situation like that.
Not always possible in every situation, but often you can do away with the joint in the Wiska box and just gland the SWA to the box, leaving enough length of the inner to go through the wall and into the box on the inside. This avoids a needless joint. You need drip loops on the SWA! Otherwise you get rainwater coming in. Did you use the weatherproof SWA glands outside?
Cracking vid, gives me some ideas for my garage. Mine is currently fed by 2 core armoured, wired up years ago, got a new box ready for fitting and glands, came with banjos in the pack of glands do they need to be fitted as it's 2 core? I'm not doing the work myself but one of these people who likes to understand how it all gets done and what it's all for etc lol
The official brand name / company name is "Dietzel Univolt" from Vinna city, Austria, European Union. Inside UK only "Univolt". The colour is "black" what is "schwarz" in german language. The sign "CL SW 20" mean the external diameter of the pipe how fit in should be "20 cm". They are 100 pieces (or in german language "Stück") inside this box. I think this is the minimal smallest box how do you can order in a shop. Be carefully this product is only hard plastic but they sell metal clamps too. HTH you and your other viewers!
Hi Nick, another great video.👍🏼 I did comment earlier about the 100ma TD RCD, as you had missed it. Their is nothing wrong with the 100ma TD rcd & rcbo’s & that makes it a great install with good practice. I would have just put a 30ma rcd main switch at the front end & a main switch with circuit breakers in the shed, saving a bit of cash. (Being a shed in domestic situation.). Also if they are the new reduced height WYLEX RCBO’s they are switched neutral which means they are ideal for TT installs. I use them for board changes in TT.
I have a supply to a shed and the cable is 4 to 5 metres over a pathway on a catenary on a concreted scaffold pole , I want to upgrade/renew the supply from 16 amps to 32 amps so i can use a welder on an outside bench. the distance from indoor CU to shed is about 12 metres to shed CU. What would be a fair price to get a certified sparks to upgrade and renew ? I would estimate 3-4 hours max . A rough esti would be appreciated . S E England . Many thanks . I already have the cable and new shed unit.............. Great video and well explained .
T&E to the whiska is ok as long as its not a TNCS system right ? I remember reading that the earth has to be min of 6mm if so . T&E 6mm is just a 2.5mm earth .
Ummm. How are you achieving ads? 1second is out the window. You require a 100ma time delay as your main switch Or is the supply to the shed a rcbo also??
tomorichard Thompson 👍 I agree, unless as you say the supply to garage is an rcbo. Therefore I wouldn’t be putting rcbo’s at the garage end. I would suggest as you have on the distribution circuit 100ma time delayed.
@@NBundyElectrical that 60A fuse is only good for 3m - anything longer needs another fuse in the line. I know it is not the part of the system that you are working on, but it should be pointed out to the customer as 'needing improvement'.
Nick Elks is absolutely correct if it over 3 meters it would require OCP, but if it’s existing it has nothing to do with nick. I’m not sure it’s even worthy of comment to the householder. If you were changing the consumer unit then yes something would have to be done.
Nice job , I would have drilled those galv hi beams with a 32mm hole saw and stuck an open grommet in there , it would have made a neater job and by drilling a hole you don't weaken the beam.......👍
Great Job. The only thing I can see as an observation not a criticism is the tails coming into Wylex, are they supposed to be doubly insulated i.e. pvc pvc or am I mistaken? Good Job. Second question is why Hager 100mA Time Delay 2 Pole RCCB so expensive compared to other brands. Keep up the good work.
I'm pretty sure he's using the same tails I normally use these days, search for "flexi tail" on QVS. They are double insulated, the outside layer is just coloured too which is a bonus in my book (no need to mark them or check which is which when putting them in). As you probably guessed from the name they're 19 strand not 7 so they'll bend with far less strain, makes for a much easier install if you have any tight bends to make (like he did here), totally worth paying a few quid extra for imo.
Curiosity rather than criticism; at the house end why box and gland off the SWA on the exterior rather than take it whole through the wall and gland it to the new DB you've installed?
Other than it looking like an amateur did it you would have trouble terminating the SWA and it would stick out from the wall on the outside and probably tear the SWA sleeving leading to corrosion to the steel down the line
Mikey Sky why is that a stupid reply? Do you have a better answer? Is this the kind of work you would do? And gambligaddict would you call cleating a cable to the wall then looping it into a hole then to stick it through the back of the DB and try to terminate it professional?
Hi Nick, great video as usual pal. I have an out building to get power to which is about 25m from the consumer unit, I am on a TT system, should I be fitting an earth rod at the outbuilding end or will it be ok with the earth rod from the main consumer unit?
Depends on your earth reading (dbzs) at the shed which will determine whether you need one or not. If it was any other earthing arrangement it would need one and no connection between the house and outbuilding.
A & R Electrics that’s not correct, you can export any TN system including PME. If their were any extraneous conductive parts within the out building you would need to TT or run a bonding conductor back to the MET.
If the earth reading from the house TT is good enough you can use that. However do you think you may at some point get the house changed to PME? That gets done a lot these days. If you have no extraneous conductive parts in the outbuilding (anything that may introduce a true earth potential, basically metal going into the ground) then no problem, but if there are extraneous conductive parts I would rod it regardless of the reading from the house and separate them just so the house can be upgraded to PME in the future without having to worry about the outbuilding. On the other hand if the earth reading at the house is shit and you're stuck with TT get some rods in and link it up! TLDR: Inspect (keeping extraneous conductive parts in mind), test, consider likely future changes, make a judgement call and install accordingly.
Hi another great vid keep it up 👍 I must of spent half my life as an apprentice in that wholesalers drinking tea as you do . Had some fun nights out with them too , is it still owned by the same people?
J. W. Would have something to say about earthing. I'm about to install a 10 square twin and earth to workshop. Can I connect both ends of earth on TT system? Also fitting earth rod on workshop.
Question, you ran permanent supplies to each light. Did you do a joint in each light and run a twin brown and earth to each switch? Enjoy the videos 👍🏻
Darragh Joyce I’m guessing he ran a single switch wire down to each switch as bringing permanent supplies to them switches would have used twice as much cable.
How did you earth the armour going into the house? It’s been a big debate for a while if you feed the central sheath through, how do you earth the armour?
I hate it when hired help pulls the cable without rolling it out. One you always need to remember when the helps about. Good choice with the catenary wire. I love to use it myself when I can. Digging is for someone else 🙄
Removing the main switch RCD to 100mA , i take it you have now change the design characteristics of the house submain and remove all 30mA RCD protection for the house sockets, hope not?
There's a possibility water could track down the cable and into the shed over time, even with sealant around it, because it's always going to be liable to movement, so eventually any sealant around the cable will crack, and with the location of the hole and wire its going to be tricky to get a loop in it now. Also being a TT system, that submain will not disconnect in the required time, if the RCD was inside, you would be ok, and no need for rcbos, also a bit cheaper.
Esta Lindo in the house we’ve just moved into, the whole row of houses is connected together. Our cables comes between the buildings overhead, tees off to our DB and then goes of to next door where it tees off into their DB and then goes overhead between the buildings. Seems like they group a phase from the feeder pillar rather than teeing off the 3 phases to houses in order
I was just going to add this. Also just another thing to remember... correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure you should have one means of isolating the whole supply by a main switch, currently now has two main switches. Nice neat work keep it up.
@@ARElectricsShould that isolation be with the 100mA RCD? Which is probably what that plastic enclosure is by the meter. I agree with the very nice, neat work. Excellent videos. Keep it up.
@@ThePa1ch yes should the 100mA TD RCD upfront be the means of isolation to the whole supply that would be perfect. Then from the outgoing side into DP Henley block to supply house DB and Distribution circuit to the garage.
Hi mate how are u ok mate hove a good day mate how a good day how are u ok mate hove a good day mate form Greg Bouchard how are u ok mate hove a good day mate form Greg Bouchard u do a good job mate hove a good day mate bey for now mate hove a great day mate
gamblingaddict 55 Utter tripe. If our squad are sent to Ireland, we use Hager the majority of the time. Love their stuff. Wiring is no different in Ireland.
![ร้อยพ่อพันแม่ - WanMai [Official MV]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/XY2pNYASEbg/mqdefault.jpg)
Used catenary few weeks back for garden lighting with tensioners it worked a treat .
With it being an armour I think I’d have went Down and under the slabs but never the less good job as per usual bud 👍👍👍
First video I've seen of yours mate, nice work. Good to see you treating your "help" with some respect too, nice to see in the industry.
We have a Compton Garage from before they became Legit Compton and it came supplied with rectangular brackets. Holes at both ends allowed you to use the existing concrete panel bolts to secure these brackets to the wall. The other end to secure battens etc. that you could then mount a piece of wood to for electrical accessories etc.
Couldn’t help but notice the state of the gaff, I serious need of renovation, any how great vid really informative mate 👌🏾
I had the same problem when i wired my dads garage, so much stuff in the way when trying to get the kopex round and looking half decent.
I know it’s a right pain
Good job. Please include all the small details of the job for apprentices.
Nice one Nick, I like the longer vids.
Do you not use the cable tensioners? Saves messing on with undoing clamps
Hi: Why didn't you make the armoured off to the left and the Kopex at the right on the garage board ?, Would have been much neater & no crossover.
I agree it just worked out that the big knock out was on the left
@@NBundyElectrical : Ah right, see your problem now. Thanks for the reply buddy.
Does that SWA crossing the copex not annoy you?
Greatly unfortunately
I cringed when he Terminated the armoured like that😭🤣
i cringed too lol I would of had to swap them round so they ran in nicely. Great video tho mate
Yes it did, and I was hoping he would have corrected it, but its too easy to be judgmental.
@@cprfenomI try not to be judgemental online, especially when I'm not a qualified spark. But i have to say, I could never have left that like that myself! Such an easy fix to run them next to each other and be tidy? Also again, nothing against him as customer wanted it, but personally think that flexi looks awful / bodge job myself in a situation like that.
Not always possible in every situation, but often you can do away with the joint in the Wiska box and just gland the SWA to the box, leaving enough length of the inner to go through the wall and into the box on the inside. This avoids a needless joint. You need drip loops on the SWA! Otherwise you get rainwater coming in. Did you use the weatherproof SWA glands outside?
The swa had a slight uphill on it before entering the shed and the whole was sealed with silicon and yes they were weatherproof glands
Is there a drip loop on swa before entering the shed / garage as water will run down sloping cable
Well if it runs down the cable it's going to run away from the shed, isn't it? It's going up and in. It should just drip off outside.
Agree should have a drip loop at the shed end
Another neat install Nick. Well done.
Cracking vid, gives me some ideas for my garage. Mine is currently fed by 2 core armoured, wired up years ago, got a new box ready for fitting and glands, came with banjos in the pack of glands do they need to be fitted as it's 2 core? I'm not doing the work myself but one of these people who likes to understand how it all gets done and what it's all for etc lol
I think there should be a drip loop as swa enters the shed
As the cable heads upward off the catenary wire a drip loop won’t be required.
The official brand name / company name is
"Dietzel Univolt" from Vinna city, Austria, European Union. Inside UK only "Univolt".
The colour is "black" what is "schwarz" in german language. The sign "CL SW 20" mean the external diameter of the pipe how fit in should be "20 cm". They are 100 pieces (or in german language "Stück") inside this box. I think this is the minimal smallest box how do you can order in a shop.
Be carefully this product is only hard plastic but they sell metal clamps too.
HTH you and your other viewers!
Given all the cabling is in conduit, did you consider using singles rather than T&E, it's far easier to pull through etc?
What were all the materials and what was the cost of all the materials I wonder. Great video thankyou.
Great video again! Do TH-cam not get arsey with music playing from a radio in the background? (Around 15minute mark)
Yeah slipped up abit there
Hi Nick, another great video.👍🏼 I did comment earlier about the 100ma TD RCD, as you had missed it. Their is nothing wrong with the 100ma TD rcd & rcbo’s & that makes it a great install with good practice. I would have just put a 30ma rcd main switch at the front end & a main switch with circuit breakers in the shed, saving a bit of cash. (Being a shed in domestic situation.). Also if they are the new reduced height WYLEX RCBO’s they are switched neutral which means they are ideal for TT installs. I use them for board changes in TT.
Cheers mate and the mini rcbos are great 👍
Great vid as always, you take great pride in your work i love that. Keep it real👍
Brilliant, a real pleasure to watch. Thank you!
Never used catenary before looking nice though Nick. Think I could do with an Adam? But I could only pay him in coffee and pot noodles ;)
J Beck Electrical I pay him with awkward long cuddles in the van before taking him home 😂😂
@@NBundyElectrical in the back of the van with the door shut and the radio on 🤣👍
Yeah and I turn the lights off 😂
Great work Nick.
Fantastic video, very neat and tidy
Hi nick another great video I have used them tornado led lights today what a coincidence 😂 keep the great videos coming
Hi shouldn’t the catenary be 3m minimum from ground to meet the regs.
3.5m minimum to be Part P compliant. 5.8m where vehicles will pass underneath.
Great choice on the ansell lights, we fit only them tornado or topline 6. Better than the thron fitting we used before....
Yeah great choice
Seriously enjoying your content, thankyou so much!
I have a supply to a shed and the cable is 4 to 5 metres over a pathway on a catenary on a concreted scaffold pole , I want to upgrade/renew the supply from 16 amps to 32 amps so i can use a welder on an outside bench. the distance from indoor CU to shed is about 12 metres to shed CU. What would be a fair price to get a certified sparks to upgrade and renew ? I would estimate 3-4 hours max . A rough esti would be appreciated . S E England . Many thanks . I already have the cable and new shed unit.............. Great video and well explained .
I remember doing that to the armoured when I was training, I was made to pay for a new 20m length 😂 must be a Adam thing
Adam lol must be 😂
@@NBundyElectrical He needs training on how "concentric cables" are made lol ;-)
T&E to the whiska is ok as long as its not a TNCS system right ? I remember reading that the earth has to be min of 6mm if so . T&E 6mm is just a 2.5mm earth .
Ummm. How are you achieving ads? 1second is out the window. You require a 100ma time delay as your main switch
Or is the supply to the shed a rcbo also??
tomorichard Thompson 👍 I agree, unless as you say the supply to garage is an rcbo. Therefore I wouldn’t be putting rcbo’s at the garage end. I would suggest as you have on the distribution circuit 100ma time delayed.
I have swapped the main switch for a 100 mA rcd the next day as I had realised this being a tt system 👍 good spot guys
@@NBundyElectrical timed delay S type?
no 30ma protection for sockets?
Chris Gordon he has rcbos fitted to final circuits.
I thought the regs said it needs to be 3.2m above the ground?
Could 2.5mm SWA be used for internal wiring for sockets? No need for copex or conduit! Obviously pricey but if one had half a spare role at hand...
Schwartz isn't the brand of them saddles, shwartz is German for Black!
engl. black = ger. schwarz 😉
Sheds great house looks like it needs a lot of work
Nice tidy job, any reason why you just don't take the swa straight to the new metal box in side the house?
Keep up the good work mate I’m enjoying the videos , and the comments, some folk are unreal 😂😂
What is providing overcurrent protection on the 16mm T&E supplying the main house DB at the front of the property?
The main fuse is 60 amp 👍
@@NBundyElectrical that 60A fuse is only good for 3m - anything longer needs another fuse in the line. I know it is not the part of the system that you are working on, but it should be pointed out to the customer as 'needing improvement'.
there may be a 100mA delayed RCD in that plastic enclosure
@@ThePa1ch that RCD will only provide fault protection - it will not provide overcurrent protection
Nick Elks is absolutely correct if it over 3 meters it would require OCP, but if it’s existing it has nothing to do with nick. I’m not sure it’s even worthy of comment to the householder. If you were changing the consumer unit then yes something would have to be done.
Another good one chap 👌🏼🙌🏻
Great vid, your first customer from watching one of your videos? 😂
Nice job , I would have drilled those galv hi beams with a 32mm hole saw and stuck an open grommet in there , it would have made a neater job and by drilling a hole you don't weaken the beam.......👍
yensabi umm, yeah, you do 😂😂
Was the 100ma rcd main switch put in for belt and braces in case one of the rcbos failed ?
Nice job 👍 I enjoyed this video.
I always wrap some yellow and black warning tape around the catenary wire SWA. Stops the dozy window cleaner hitting it with his ladders.
Ck spiral fish tape, great for kopex
Good video was just wondering as it’s tt to meet am-3 needs metal enclosure at origin but you can’t cos of tt am I right
Yes metal board with correct entry gland and cable clamps is possible
Great Job. The only thing I can see as an observation not a criticism is the tails coming into Wylex, are they supposed to be doubly insulated i.e. pvc pvc or am I mistaken? Good Job. Second question is why Hager 100mA Time Delay 2 Pole RCCB so expensive compared to other brands. Keep up the good work.
I'm pretty sure he's using the same tails I normally use these days, search for "flexi tail" on QVS. They are double insulated, the outside layer is just coloured too which is a bonus in my book (no need to mark them or check which is which when putting them in). As you probably guessed from the name they're 19 strand not 7 so they'll bend with far less strain, makes for a much easier install if you have any tight bends to make (like he did here), totally worth paying a few quid extra for imo.
Cheer Matt didn't realise they made double insulated same colours. great job.
Got a question about this video. What clips do you use to hold the armoured to the catenery wire? If you don't mind me asking.
He used metal zip ties
Curiosity rather than criticism; at the house end why box and gland off the SWA on the exterior rather than take it whole through the wall and gland it to the new DB you've installed?
Other than it looking like an amateur did it you would have trouble terminating the SWA and it would stick out from the wall on the outside and probably tear the SWA sleeving leading to corrosion to the steel down the line
Why wud it look like an amateur done it?
Jay Scott That is a stupid reply.
Mikey Sky why is that a stupid reply? Do you have a better answer? Is this the kind of work you would do? And gambligaddict would you call cleating a cable to the wall then looping it into a hole then to stick it through the back of the DB and try to terminate it professional?
Jay Scott Two ways of doing it and both are perfectly fine.
Nick good vid ,I buy 100m of the flexi conduit at a time ,so more economical providing you have spare glands ,did you make Adam sit in the van 😄!!!
I need to get a big drum! And lol made him clean the van out 👌
Hi Nick, great video as usual pal. I have an out building to get power to which is about 25m from the consumer unit, I am on a TT system, should I be fitting an earth rod at the outbuilding end or will it be ok with the earth rod from the main consumer unit?
Depends on your earth reading (dbzs) at the shed which will determine whether you need one or not.
If it was any other earthing arrangement it would need one and no connection between the house and outbuilding.
I have used the earth from the house here but it’s just as easy to run two core swa and rod it separately
A & R Electrics that’s not correct, you can export any TN system including PME. If their were any extraneous conductive parts within the out building you would need to TT or run a bonding conductor back to the MET.
I would run 2core armoured with Rod at shed every time, protected by 100ma RCD back at the main.
If the earth reading from the house TT is good enough you can use that. However do you think you may at some point get the house changed to PME? That gets done a lot these days. If you have no extraneous conductive parts in the outbuilding (anything that may introduce a true earth potential, basically metal going into the ground) then no problem, but if there are extraneous conductive parts I would rod it regardless of the reading from the house and separate them just so the house can be upgraded to PME in the future without having to worry about the outbuilding.
On the other hand if the earth reading at the house is shit and you're stuck with TT get some rods in and link it up!
TLDR: Inspect (keeping extraneous conductive parts in mind), test, consider likely future changes, make a judgement call and install accordingly.
Hi another great vid keep it up 👍
I must of spent half my life as an apprentice in that wholesalers drinking tea as you do . Had some fun nights out with them too , is it still owned by the same people?
Adam Mccabe yes it is, great guys 😂
When Adam uncoiled that SWA 😂😂 I hate it when the wholesalers send you SWA like that....🤬
I know right prefer a drum so much easier 👌
Seems tho it’s a TT shouldn’t you install another earth rod at the garage
J. W. Would have something to say about earthing. I'm about to install a 10 square twin and earth to workshop. Can I connect both ends of earth on TT system? Also fitting earth rod on workshop.
Question, you ran permanent supplies to each light. Did you do a joint in each light and run a twin brown and earth to each switch?
Enjoy the videos 👍🏻
Darragh Joyce I’m guessing he ran a single switch wire down to each switch as bringing permanent supplies to them switches would have used twice as much cable.
How did you earth the armour going into the house? It’s been a big debate for a while if you feed the central sheath through, how do you earth the armour?
I glanded the armoured into the wiska and ran a 6mm single earth to the locking nut in on the wiska
I hate it when hired help pulls the cable without rolling it out. One you always need to remember when the helps about. Good choice with the catenary wire. I love to use it myself when I can. Digging is for someone else 🙄
Removing the main switch RCD to 100mA , i take it you have now change the design characteristics of the house submain and remove all 30mA RCD protection for the house sockets, hope not?
No I changed the main switch feeding the shed and didn’t touch house supply
Hi nick great video pal how is the flexi conduit connected to the switches and sockets is there a adapter or whatever that you use
Ask for a ' contractors pack' of flexi from the suppliers. This comes with 10 ends and lock rings
The packs of flexi con come with 10 glands that screw into the boxes and the flexi clicks into the glands.
#wylexgang - think they should send you a T-Shirt. 🤣
What a mess. Did you get full pay for that?
Swa cleats for copex is the way forward!
Good shout!!
Thank me later.
RCBO in shed. Very posh!
May be a stupid question, but what does the catenary wire do? Keep up the good content mate!👌🏻
Reece Cooper supports the cable
🤦♂️
Jamie Vaughan realised not long after I asked the question😂
There's a possibility water could track down the cable and into the shed over time, even with sealant around it, because it's always going to be liable to movement, so eventually any sealant around the cable will crack, and with the location of the hole and wire its going to be tricky to get a loop in it now. Also being a TT system, that submain will not disconnect in the required time, if the RCD was inside, you would be ok, and no need for rcbos, also a bit cheaper.
Great vid, thanks for sharing. 🐵
Those style garages are a bitch to drill the concrete. Have one myself and knackered many drill bits
That Armour cross over really let’s down your decent install pal
Lol I know 😢😢
Did the main incoming cable come from next door or is it coming out of the ground
Ground mate how come
@@NBundyElectrical I worked in a house and they link two houses together and the first house mains cable comes out the ground
Esta Lindo in the house we’ve just moved into, the whole row of houses is connected together. Our cables comes between the buildings overhead, tees off to our DB and then goes of to next door where it tees off into their DB and then goes overhead between the buildings. Seems like they group a phase from the feeder pillar rather than teeing off the 3 phases to houses in order
Schwarz means black! :)
All good but!!!i would have cut a channel in the floor and burried the cable to the shed.
Some MI would have worked a treat there
Does anyone still use MI?
That armoured cable run has no RCD protection as it's straight out of the meter tails? Does it need it?
Yes I’ve put in the description being a tt system I fitted a 100mA time delayed rcd the next day 👍
I was just going to add this. Also just another thing to remember... correct me if I'm wrong but I'm pretty sure you should have one means of isolating the whole supply by a main switch, currently now has two main switches.
Nice neat work keep it up.
@@ARElectricsShould that isolation be with the 100mA RCD? Which is probably what that plastic enclosure is by the meter. I agree with the very nice, neat work. Excellent videos. Keep it up.
@@ThePa1ch yes should the 100mA TD RCD upfront be the means of isolation to the whole supply that would be perfect.
Then from the outgoing side into DP Henley block to supply house DB and Distribution circuit to the garage.
A & R Electrics don’t think there’s a reg saying you have to just have one main isolator for the whole installation.
What size was the supply to the shed ?
Kieran Fitzpatrick 6mm
Not a big fan of the flexi copex . But what the client wants the client gets I guess lol
mate schwartz is black in german :_)
"Schwarz" -> mean black. 😊
Should be 3 meters high.
Hi Nick. I believe I'm first.
Shabby. But he can see it himself.
Hi mate how are u ok mate hove a good day mate how a good day how are u ok mate hove a good day mate form Greg Bouchard how are u ok mate hove a good day mate form Greg Bouchard u do a good job mate hove a good day mate bey for now mate hove a great day mate
Drip loop
No need for a drop loop as the armoured goes up hill from wire into hole 👌
Hager is dirt
Why?
Yeah why?
I'm in Ireland and there fuseboards are horrible to use are fuseboard set up wud be different than UK tho
gamblingaddict 55 Utter tripe. If our squad are sent to Ireland, we use Hager the majority of the time. Love their stuff. Wiring is no different in Ireland.
gamblingaddict 55 Hager is fine. It’s your electrical skills that are dirt