A type is the RCD type. The old standard is AC but now some manufacturers are doing Type A which can cope with some DC currents. The overcurrent protection type is B, C D etc...
Thanks for taking the time to video all that. The camera angles were good. Great music track during the timelapse bits. I think the end product looked really neat and a good reference guide to fitting an RCBO CU. Great stuff 👏👏👏👍🏴
Yes you’ve got the type AC there . They have started doing the type A but you do pay abit more for them . But go and watch John ward video on testing AC compared to type A . It made me start using type A
Top video again! In terms of your question with the ferrules, I just do the fly leads (anything stranded to make it solid within the terminal) for that reason I wouldn't bother with the cpc's (unless using flex). BTW top marks to Adam calling up and coming in after an early dart from college - keep hold of that lad! 👍🏻 In terms of RCD type we're tending to install A types - been a few higher readings than we're used to but Hager are suggesting testing them at 250mA when they are failing the conventional tests (which is supported within the regs) - worth a mention in case you have some higher readings on A types going forward.
Just used the small factor RCBOs in a 7-way outbuilding CU. Absolute dream! You have presented a nice neat board. Just started watching your videos and will continue. Thanks for your time!
Another great video I have the same crimpers off Amazon got it for the same reason too, about them being a couple of terminals short for bonding just remember you can use the MET, keep up the good work mate
Nice neat job there Nick, my preferred method of rear entry if I'm honest, seems to give room to work, board looks good for the price, good tip on the tails
Nice enclosure! We recently used GE "fix O rail" amazing board. Used to use GARO "used to" being the operative word after the the fixOrail. We are going to try out WYLEX to compare (perhaps we might make a video) good work Nick!
Been doing a load of eicrs in council houses and they all had crabtree boards fitted in the last 10 years, but they all look like theyve been thrown at the wall. Tonnes of cable spare, we have been cutting like 20cm off some cables!
Steve Craft I am doing an EICR on a council place and the board is exactly as you describe, loads of spare cable, wires not clipped, obviously done on a budget
normally Councils/housing associations run on -30% on Sor 7.0 the likes of mears or one of the other big contractor will then sub that out to a local firm for -20% on top so we now at -50% on Sor 7.0 so to make any real money these guys are cutting corners to make any money at all. Council and H/A works are very cut-throat on a large scale.
Nice to see a nice tidy board. And I wonder if our apprentice would call us and join us if he finished early 🤔 Sign of a good lad there. I would only use ferrules for stranded flexible cable. The A type RCBO detects faults across AC & DC circuits where the AC type RCBO only reacts to faults on the AC side of a circuit. Alot of what we install nowadays are electronic so is recommended we install type A. Our prices for hager are good enough to keep us using hager 😊
Nice job. Fitted one of those boards recently and have to say its pretty good for the money. I think rcbo boards are definitely the way to go. Great video thanks for sharing.
Great vid Nick. Lovely tidy job on the board and fantastic tip about the tails. Great to hear the price comparison as well. I’ve just ordered an Epson label printer that you connect with your phone and can put breaker measurements etc in to it so as you get the right text under the right breaker. Supposedly has less waste each time you print as well. Picking it up at ELEX so will let you know how I get on with it. 👍🏻
Fitted alot of these already, I find you can lose the neutral fly lead length behind the rcbos if you terminate them first, to speed up without needing to cut them down and re-crimp. Another point is if you try to change an rcbo, the busbar being flat makes it awkward. bent over busbar would be an improvement.
Honestly I prefer mitring my bends on trunking as it looks neater plus I feel like bends just look cheap and are a quick fix. I just normally run a little caulk on the mitre.
Just for info, I don't know if they still do this but we were getting Hager RCBO's from Yesss electrical for £18.5 each. Also, those fusebox consumer units look very similar to Lewden Consumer units and the RCBO's are the same price.
Hi nick great video.. Fitted a fuse box on Friday and the earth bar was the only thing that I could really moan about.. Although I do find hager better still.. But like you say with the price difference does make you think that fuse box is definatley value for money
Hi, it's been 3 years since this install, have you installed anymore fusebox consumer units? How do you feel about them now? Could be maybe get a update video on fusebox units. Thanks
Hi Nick, great video on the Fusebox like how you’ve not been board snobbery like loads of”electricians” on the forums have been recently with not so well known brands of rcbo boards, I’ve been using the LVE range for over three years again can’t fault their boards really friendly service from the guys at LVE in Manchester, great to see you doing the back entry for the cables, again everyone preaching on about fire integrity of boards when you come out the top panel, the ferrule crimps are the way forward when working with rcbo neutral tails chop and crimp👍👍 David Savery’s review on the Brother E550W printer is second to non its the ultimate printer for an electrician. The budget RCBO’s are the way forward so much better and neater that dual rcd boards and easier for the end user to get their heads around when they have a fault occur
There isn't a domestic board on the UK market that doesn't have electricians screaming "gimme more space!" Dressing the wires really shouldn't be such a PITA. It's the one thing that US boards have that I envy. Large boards have become more common on the continent, mainly I suspect because they tend to use more circuits than we do. I wish they'd arrive here.
funny enough i fitted one of these today, for the money they are ok, they could be improved, but at this price point i can put up with the short comings, you should buy them online, the A type rcbo`s are £13, the standard ones less than £8
Get your self a good headtorch . You will never need a flood light again . I bought a zebralight H602 about 5 years ago with 2 x batteries and charger . Cost me about £120 but I’ve never needed a lead light ever again. Worth ever penny
Hi Nick, great video I really enjoy your stuff. Have you ever considered the implications of a big rear entry hole in the back of the metal consumer unit and it being mounted on ply wood? Does the board not lose a lot of its 18th edition integrity?
Hi Nick nice tidy job am I right in thinking the live & neutral connections on the SPD go in the bottom terminals of the main switch if so my concern is the live 6mm tail as that also takes the bus bar, just wondering if there could be an issue in the future of it becoming loose with them both being in the same terminal your comments would be most welcome
Nice job and hey nice price on the board! Need to find me a supplier up here. I had the same problem with the garage door recently! I ended up full of grease in my hair from the bloody thing.
J Beck Electrical if you want a supplier for RCBO’s give me a shout I can put you in touch with supplier local to you, find my contact details on Napit website Lee
This is my take on the bootlaces, I use them all the time, not too sure though about using them on solid core cable. If I was still in the UK is possibly make sure there was no conductor showing.
the covers go on no problem, because they have a screw in the middle of the din rail, unlike other manufacturers, where everything drops once its on the wall. They have a good bus bar cover, theres plenty of space, it would be nice if the earth from the surge device was a bit longer, other than that they are ok.
To me the crimp connectors are just another point of failure for a loose connection. The screw tightening lugs are rated for the bare wire and it will be a fine connection
I would like to use RCBO boards but using the bigger brands it’s just to expensive. My problem with using cheaper boards from no name brands is getting the breakers at some point in the future. I’ve had issues with Volex recently. Not installed by me originally but I had a real problem getting a replacement faulty RCBO, the price was crazy too
Hi Nick. Just got myself one of these boards. The SPD on mine is pre wired to the neutral bar rather than the main switch. Any thoughts on why this might be? Does it matter where it goes? Also, I’m guessing the fuse box SPD doesn’t need to be wired off a MCB then? Cheers.
Hi nick nice job again Is this company new to market as not seen them before was ordering a board yeasterday and come across them but dismissed straight away as they where that cheep and not heard of them and ordered a hager in the end 🙈
A types, not A curve. A type as opposed to AC, A type can differentiate between DC signals which can cause nuisance tripping (computers, printers etc) pretty much standard all A type for both B and C curves.
Indeed, a lot of suppliers still don't seem to know the difference! Had a lot of trips into the back of wholesalers this year to pull rcbos out of boxes and show them the type A vs type AC symbols, for a couple quid difference the only reason I can think of to ever buy type AC again is putting a new circuit into an existing board of a brand that doesn't make type A yet.
@@NBundyElectrical One thing to bare in mind from your link, 4mm terminals can only fit upto 4mm cable, for anything bigger you need the appropriate size terminal
personally i would have gone straight out the back as the main switch is inline with the other isolator, would have looked neater, less cable and saved on a gland
Nice job Nick, board looks decent... My only concern is how easy is it gonna be if one of the MCB/RCBO's fail and you need to find a wholesalers that sell them off the shelf.
Cost of an rcbo board isn’t an issue if you fully explain to the end user the benefits of using rcbo and the down sides to when a fault occurs on a dual rcbo or an rcd goes faulty half their house is down until it’s repaired
Instead of brother printer why not use HellermannTyton Helagrip Slide On Cable Markers? clip on numbers and letters, saves a lot of time and money, W for water, G for Gas etc
Unless you have the Brother printer you won’t understand how great the printers are, so easy to use and the tape is laminated so the ink doesn’t smudge
@@ashmanelectricalservices4318 I understand, but since he's going to the trouble of doing that, why not use the markers? you just clip them on so it's faster than typing, printing and wrapping the brother label, and also price works out at about a penny a clip. Unless I'm missing something?
@@leebutterworth7465 Yeah I'm sure it's great for notices and warning labels, but for one word labels on cables, for things where you can put a W for water, just seems like it'd make more sense no? in terms of price and speed anyway just a suggestion.
@Zak J cable wrap labels from the Brother machine cost next to nothing bud also you would need cable markers for 10mm 6mm and 16mm unless they fit all. Check the David Savery review, my label machines in the van ready I use mine for all the module markings so no bother. I’m sure the clip on markers are great for there purpose just my preferred option
jordan chapman you’re right in one respect. However, there are different crimps and dies for solid (circular and triangular), coarse stranded and fine stranded. Klauke are a great company to start with IMHO.
@@leebutterworth7465 Thank you. Maybe at some point, you could do a bit of a dumbed-down video showing the order things go and how on earth you keep track of which wires are which.
Yes it does matter and same for the Earths too, its in the regs somewhere, Theres a box for it on certificates too, cant remember what it is off the top of my head but it would be classed as a C3 on an EICR. Above all that though it makes it easier for anybody coming after you to work on the board when everything corresponds properly
super tidy job inside that board! impressed with the quality of it too. great vid good to see how it worked out irl.
A type is the RCD type. The old standard is AC but now some manufacturers are doing Type A which can cope with some DC currents. The overcurrent protection type is B, C D etc...
A type are used for car chargers etc that can have DC back currents (apparently)
Thanks for taking the time to video all that. The camera angles were good. Great music track during the timelapse bits. I think the end product looked really neat and a good reference guide to fitting an RCBO CU. Great stuff 👏👏👏👍🏴
Very neat job. Nice to see people taking pride in their work👍
Yes you’ve got the type AC there . They have started doing the type A but you do pay abit more for them . But go and watch John ward video on testing AC compared to type A . It made me start using type A
that is how a fuseboard should be done.very neat mate there is no need for the mountains of slack which is sometimes left in the board.nice one nick
Top video again!
In terms of your question with the ferrules, I just do the fly leads (anything stranded to make it solid within the terminal) for that reason I wouldn't bother with the cpc's (unless using flex).
BTW top marks to Adam calling up and coming in after an early dart from college - keep hold of that lad! 👍🏻
In terms of RCD type we're tending to install A types - been a few higher readings than we're used to but Hager are suggesting testing them at 250mA when they are failing the conventional tests (which is supported within the regs) - worth a mention in case you have some higher readings on A types going forward.
Beautiful job,one of the neatest installs I've seen,well done Nick
I always screw the screws back into the board so they don’t get lost.
Nick, I love it when you say, “Rear Entry”. And talk about split rings 😂😂
My other half loves it also 👀
N Bundy Electrical Are you at Elex2019 today?
Yes bud here now
N Bundy Electrical Me too! Lol
Just used the small factor RCBOs in a 7-way outbuilding CU. Absolute dream! You have presented a nice neat board. Just started watching your videos and will continue. Thanks for your time!
Thanks mate 👌
Fair play to Adam to turn up on site after college most would probably go home he obviously enjoys working with you.
Nice job, tidy board might give 1 a go
Another great video I have the same crimpers off Amazon got it for the same reason too, about them being a couple of terminals short for bonding just remember you can use the MET, keep up the good work mate
Nice neat job there Nick, my preferred method of rear entry if I'm honest, seems to give room to work, board looks good for the price, good tip on the tails
Nice enclosure! We recently used GE "fix O rail" amazing board. Used to use GARO "used to" being the operative word after the the fixOrail. We are going to try out WYLEX to compare (perhaps we might make a video) good work Nick!
Been doing a load of eicrs in council houses and they all had crabtree boards fitted in the last 10 years, but they all look like theyve been thrown at the wall. Tonnes of cable spare, we have been cutting like 20cm off some cables!
Steve Craft I am doing an EICR on a council place and the board is exactly as you describe, loads of spare cable, wires not clipped, obviously done on a budget
Haha my dad used to fit these? Starbreaker by any chance?
@@user-wk7wv8rn8h yeah.
normally Councils/housing associations run on -30% on Sor 7.0 the likes of mears or one of the other big contractor will then sub that out to a local firm for -20% on top so we now at -50% on Sor 7.0 so to make any real money these guys are cutting corners to make any money at all. Council and H/A works are very cut-throat on a large scale.
Fitting one on Saturday, so great timing Nick. I got mine from consumer unit world at a more competitive price for the rcbos.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks bud 👌
Nice to see a nice tidy board. And I wonder if our apprentice would call us and join us if he finished early 🤔 Sign of a good lad there.
I would only use ferrules for stranded flexible cable.
The A type RCBO detects faults across AC & DC circuits where the AC type RCBO only reacts to faults on the AC side of a circuit.
Alot of what we install nowadays are electronic so is recommended we install type A.
Our prices for hager are good enough to keep us using hager 😊
Nice job. Fitted one of those boards recently and have to say its pretty good for the money. I think rcbo boards are definitely the way to go. Great video thanks for sharing.
Great vid Nick. Lovely tidy job on the board and fantastic tip about the tails. Great to hear the price comparison as well.
I’ve just ordered an Epson label printer that you connect with your phone and can put breaker measurements etc in to it so as you get the right text under the right breaker. Supposedly has less waste each time you print as well.
Picking it up at ELEX so will let you know how I get on with it. 👍🏻
Cracking job Nick, very tidy install. Love the blue drivers.
Thanks dude 🤙
Great video again. Doesn't look a bad board still think I prefer Hager with compact rcbo's!
Going with same board on my next job. Used a few lewden rcbo boards before. Not too shabby. Good video. Cheers.
Damm here in Finland half of cable s are without earth atleast. Awesome having earths with all cabels 👍😎
I renewed my old Proteus board with a nice MK 14 way met clad with 10 RCBOs.
Awesome work. Nice & perfect fuse board installation.
another great video mate. really neat and tidy. well put together. I just bought a brother labeller. still learning with it lol.
Fitted alot of these already, I find you can lose the neutral fly lead length behind the rcbos if you terminate them first, to speed up without needing to cut them down and re-crimp. Another point is if you try to change an rcbo, the busbar being flat makes it awkward. bent over busbar would be an improvement.
Honestly I prefer mitring my bends on trunking as it looks neater plus I feel like bends just look cheap and are a quick fix. I just normally run a little caulk on the mitre.
Brilliant job, very neat, great video. (Could use vocal trance as overlay music, as the music used felt a bit clunky)
Just for info, I don't know if they still do this but we were getting Hager RCBO's from Yesss electrical for £18.5 each. Also, those fusebox consumer units look very similar to Lewden Consumer units and the RCBO's are the same price.
Hi nick great video.. Fitted a fuse box on Friday and the earth bar was the only thing that I could really moan about.. Although I do find hager better still.. But like you say with the price difference does make you think that fuse box is definatley value for money
Excellent video and so neat. Keep up the seriously good work.
Hi, it's been 3 years since this install, have you installed anymore fusebox consumer units? How do you feel about them now? Could be maybe get a update video on fusebox units. Thanks
Great video. Your work is so neat and tidy.
Nice neat job. It is obvious you take a pride in you work. I have just subbed & thumbs up
Thanks Eric 👍 loads more to come
top video .Great man.You are the star Nick.
Absolutely love tumour videos buddy keep it up
Brilliant job, nice one Nick
Nice tip for the tails mate. They do look like ok boards. I’m probably going to stick to Hager 👌
Giffords Electrical cheaper board. More profit! As long as they last
Hi Nick, great video on the Fusebox like how you’ve not been board snobbery like loads of”electricians” on the forums have been recently with not so well known brands of rcbo boards, I’ve been using the LVE range for over three years again can’t fault their boards really friendly service from the guys at LVE in Manchester, great to see you doing the back entry for the cables, again everyone preaching on about fire integrity of boards when you come out the top panel, the ferrule crimps are the way forward when working with rcbo neutral tails chop and crimp👍👍 David Savery’s review on the Brother E550W printer is second to non its the ultimate printer for an electrician. The budget RCBO’s are the way forward so much better and neater that dual rcd boards and easier for the end user to get their heads around when they have a fault occur
Lee Butterworth cheers mate I’m looking forward to the mini rcbos soon 👍
There isn't a domestic board on the UK market that doesn't have electricians screaming "gimme more space!" Dressing the wires really shouldn't be such a PITA. It's the one thing that US boards have that I envy. Large boards have become more common on the continent, mainly I suspect because they tend to use more circuits than we do. I wish they'd arrive here.
funny enough i fitted one of these today, for the money they are ok, they could be improved, but at this price point i can put up with the short comings, you should buy them online, the A type rcbo`s are £13, the standard ones less than £8
1:27 ooo I like the blue screwdriver, what make is it...ah Hager. *googles blue Hager screwdriver set*.....*eyes water at price* 😂😂😬
😂😂😂
Why are they that much!?
They are just wiha softfinish screwdrivers in blue (usually like £17 a set)
Hi Nick, good video, but you should be using Type A RCD’s now, after what we now know.
Cheers.
Buy your Hager RCBO’s on line, £18.75 plus vat👍🏼
Neat install as always 😍
I wanted to be in your Hager gang and now do I need a fusebox t-shirt 😂
Andy (AG Electrical)
I think they are sending a t shirt aswell 🙌
Get your self a good headtorch . You will never need a flood light again . I bought a zebralight H602 about 5 years ago with 2 x batteries and charger . Cost me about £120 but I’ve never needed a lead light ever again. Worth ever penny
Good shout 🤙
Really neat and thought out job. Well done 👍
Thanks guys 👍👍
2:39 - B-type refers to MCB function. I think the A vs AC refers specifically to RCD function. Find and and explain for us please :-)
Really neat job on that board and will give the fusebox board a go. Like yourself I use Hager but there rcbos are so expensive 👍🏼
Always worth ago 👌
Hi Nick, great video I really enjoy your stuff. Have you ever considered the implications of a big rear entry hole in the back of the metal consumer unit and it being mounted on ply wood? Does the board not lose a lot of its 18th edition integrity?
Hi Nick nice tidy job am I right in thinking the live & neutral connections on the SPD go in the bottom terminals of the main switch if so my concern is the live 6mm tail as that also takes the bus bar, just wondering if there could be an issue in the future of it becoming loose with them both being in the same terminal your comments would be most welcome
Hi there nick I have used them myself for the earth
Nice job and hey nice price on the board! Need to find me a supplier up here. I had the same problem with the garage door recently! I ended up full of grease in my hair from the bloody thing.
Tall people problems 😪
J Beck Electrical if you want a supplier for RCBO’s give me a shout I can put you in touch with supplier local to you, find my contact details on Napit website Lee
J Beck Electrical order online from consumer unit world
This is my take on the bootlaces, I use them all the time, not too sure though about using them on solid core cable. If I was still in the UK is possibly make sure there was no conductor showing.
Nice video 👍 consumer unit looks decent. Did the cover fit on okay or was it a bit of a wrestle?
It was tight to be fair, but all in all decent board Chris 👌
the covers go on no problem, because they have a screw in the middle of the din rail, unlike other manufacturers, where everything drops once its on the wall. They have a good bus bar cover, theres plenty of space, it would be nice if the earth from the surge device was a bit longer, other than that they are ok.
One of the many reasons I stopped using BG boards was the covers never went on nicely. Looking forward to whacking one up on Saturday 🤪
@@dermotcullen5263 i stopped using MK for the same reason
Covers usually go on easy but you can warp the metal sometimes if you're fighting with something
Excellent video thanks. I carry a temporary board on a bit of ply with a couple of twin sockets and tails attached for such occasions.
I had a similar set up but left it at a job once an it was never to be seen again
Yes I’ve lost a few over the years. A bit like extension leads really.
Yeah lost a few of them too 😪
To me the crimp connectors are just another point of failure for a loose connection. The screw tightening lugs are rated for the bare wire and it will be a fine connection
picture quality quite good on your videos, what camera do you use?
Nice job Nick 👍
No need to crimp earths or any single stranded/large multi strand, only thin multi stranded flexible cables.
I would like to use RCBO boards but using the bigger brands it’s just to expensive. My problem with using cheaper boards from no name brands is getting the breakers at some point in the future. I’ve had issues with Volex recently. Not installed by me originally but I had a real problem getting a replacement faulty RCBO, the price was crazy too
Hi Nick. Just got myself one of these boards. The SPD on mine is pre wired to the neutral bar rather than the main switch. Any thoughts on why this might be? Does it matter where it goes? Also, I’m guessing the fuse box SPD doesn’t need to be wired off a MCB then? Cheers.
Oooo little snack for later 😂
Hi Nick thanks so much for your excellent video. What wholesaler did you get your Fuse box from, that is such a good price??
Thanks
No problem mate and look in my description of the video there is a link bud 👍
@@NBundyElectrical Thanks for your quick reply bud!
Hi nick nice job again
Is this company new to market as not seen them before was ordering a board yeasterday and come across them but dismissed straight away as they where that cheep and not heard of them and ordered a hager in the end 🙈
Fairly new yeah, but I heard so
Many good things I had to try them
Just push the neutrals down behind the breakers :-) save all that time cutting and chopping :-)
Looks tidy af the way you did it though
Good video. Can you put the Amazon link on for the crimp set please
Preciva Crimper Plier Set,... www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073TZ5BBG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Nice work 👍👍 doing my AM2 in November, any tips?
Yes, do the one day mock before the actual test.
A types, not A curve. A type as opposed to AC, A type can differentiate between DC signals which can cause nuisance tripping (computers, printers etc) pretty much standard all A type for both B and C curves.
Indeed, a lot of suppliers still don't seem to know the difference! Had a lot of trips into the back of wholesalers this year to pull rcbos out of boxes and show them the type A vs type AC symbols, for a couple quid difference the only reason I can think of to ever buy type AC again is putting a new circuit into an existing board of a brand that doesn't make type A yet.
18/19th edition boards !!! Only retailers call them this
Where do you buy the Fuseboard from?
Hi mate could you give us the detail for the adaptable box you’re going to use on this with the din tail looking at using something similar.
Yes bud let me find the link 👌
www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07KYQ194D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_oUtGDbB6VDW0C
@@NBundyElectrical Thanks for that! such obliged great video, might try one of those cu's myself look good.
@@NBundyElectrical One thing to bare in mind from your link, 4mm terminals can only fit upto 4mm cable, for anything bigger you need the appropriate size terminal
See relly good mate u do a good job on TH-cam well done mate form Greg Bouchard hove a good day mate
Are they double reinforced cables for the tails.
Steven richardson yes mate 👍 just coloured ones
@@NBundyElectrical
Thanks for the reply, it's great to see such young talent. Keep up the great work mate you should be proud of yourself
Thanks very much bud 👌
Do the tails have to come in from the bottom? Just wondering as it would look much neater coming straight in from the top.
personally i would have gone straight out the back as the main switch is inline with the other isolator, would have looked neater, less cable and saved on a gland
Top and bottom mate 👌
All this talk of top, middle or bottom is starting to make me think I'm on Strike It Lucky 😂😂😂
@@ashmanelectricalservices4318 yeah true, but you know what happens to people in Micheal Barrymore's pool 🤔, not so lucky
Hi Nick... Why did you choose to fit a consumer unit with SPD?
Just because it came with one 😂
@@NBundyElectrical But you had the choice to order a board with SPD or one without, what made you choose to go with one with an SPD?
Surprised there is no MCB protecting the Surge protection, is this not a requirement?
No the surge protection is single use; if you have a serious surge you have to replace the module.
Only a requirement if the SPD is retrofitted.
What was the name of the wholesaler you bought the board from?
Lectricall in Stafford bud
Where'd you get the hager drivers from Cant find them anywhere
Your have to fit a hager board and post a picture on Instagram and tag them and they should send you one with a T-shirt 👌
They do a 20 way too
Fitted one; it's a nice old size, plenty of space to work
Note the £24 Stanley tote bags before all the wankers thought buying a Veto made them "look pro innit " THe Stanley totes are amazing !
Nice job Nick, board looks decent... My only concern is how easy is it gonna be if one of the MCB/RCBO's fail and you need to find a wholesalers that sell them off the shelf.
Thanks 👍 and True but my local wholesaler stocks aload so all good my end
@@NBundyElectrical I do like RCBO boards, they're better than dual RCD board with fewer calories 😂
😂😂 yeah I would prefer to fit them all the time but cost has got in the way before
Cost of an rcbo board isn’t an issue if you fully explain to the end user the benefits of using rcbo and the down sides to when a fault occurs on a dual rcbo or an rcd goes faulty half their house is down until it’s repaired
@@leebutterworth7465 Cost is always an issue. The customer doesn't want to know about the what if's. They want a fuseboard that fits their budget.
it was all well and good until you put a cable tie around the neutrals....
Instead of brother printer why not use HellermannTyton Helagrip Slide On Cable Markers? clip on numbers and letters, saves a lot of time and money, W for water, G for Gas etc
Nobody numbers cables in a domestic board, the customer should think themselves lucky that Nick even bothered with the gas and water.
Unless you have the Brother printer you won’t understand how great the printers are, so easy to use and the tape is laminated so the ink doesn’t smudge
@@ashmanelectricalservices4318 I understand, but since he's going to the trouble of doing that, why not use the markers? you just clip them on so it's faster than typing, printing and wrapping the brother label, and also price works out at about a penny a clip. Unless I'm missing something?
@@leebutterworth7465 Yeah I'm sure it's great for notices and warning labels, but for one word labels on cables, for things where you can put a W for water, just seems like it'd make more sense no? in terms of price and speed anyway just a suggestion.
@Zak J cable wrap labels from the Brother machine cost next to nothing bud also you would need cable markers for 10mm 6mm and 16mm unless they fit all. Check the David Savery review, my label machines in the van ready I use mine for all the module markings so no bother. I’m sure the clip on markers are great for there purpose just my preferred option
You've got to admire Adam's commitment, not many apprentices would call the boss and tell him college finished early 👍
Alvin Ashman And then he handed a brush to clean up. Poor lad.
Nice work Nick I use luden consumer units with rcbo's definitely the way to go.
Don’t use crimps on solid cables personally never feel it bites properly. Stranded is fine however
jordan chapman you’re right in one respect. However, there are different crimps and dies for solid (circular and triangular), coarse stranded and fine stranded. Klauke are a great company to start with IMHO.
Every days a school day. I’ll have a look
Standard practice in some European countries to avoid copper sticking out.
go fund me to get Nick some new boots? Top video as usual.
Lmao that would be great 👌
I done an intense 4month course level 2 level 3 and 18th editions .I am working as a mate and I have no idea what the fuck I'm doing
Don't worry Harry now your on site the learning begins....
@@charlesjelfs4902 I hope so mate , boss wants me working on my own and not as a mate in a few months
Just keep asking questions bud and it will come 👍
Thanks guys I'll keep you updated 👍
B type doesn’t relate to the rcd characteristics.
To not know that is a bit alarming!!!!
I had a brain fart
Good board review Hager are great but as u know u pay through the nose 👃 for them tidy work
Does it matter what order the fly leads go along the neutral bar for RCBO’S?
I was thinking that too. Surely they must, but maybe not. Learning loads on these videos.
I always run my neutrals from the RCBO’s in the same order as they’re fitted in the busbar
@@leebutterworth7465 Thank you. Maybe at some point, you could do a bit of a dumbed-down video showing the order things go and how on earth you keep track of which wires are which.
Yes it does matter and same for the Earths too, its in the regs somewhere, Theres a box for it on certificates too, cant remember what it is off the top of my head but it would be classed as a C3 on an EICR. Above all that though it makes it easier for anybody coming after you to work on the board when everything corresponds properly
Idea Matt Matt nat Geo was
I so lonely stable from the board oh I think that I was going to mention and last place in Scotland when your face
That’s disappointing. I thought it was going to have proper fuses inside and none of these troublesome RCDs/RCBOs!
First
The crimping tool looks nice... Come on share the love and stick a link in.
Preciva Crimper Plier Set,... www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B073TZ5BBG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I have this one; so do the 8 lads I work with; its banging. Use it on 16mm though one lad broke his doing this; 10mm no problem
Nicely dressed !
Get yourself a gopro Nick and strap it to your head then you won't have to work one handed
These boards kind of just seem diy internet quality.
Don’t knock it til you’ve tried it 👍
N Bundy Electrical true enough, I’m a hager fan boy also
It’s sad I’m so attached to hager boards aswell 😂😂