Power And Lighting In Workshop - Shed.Part 1
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2024
- Installing power and lighting into a new workshop.
Client built workshop needing power and lighting including a new contactum rcbo consumer unit
and all wiring contained in plastic conduit with metal sockets and switches.
Broken down into 2 parts as it’s rather large.
Hope you enjoy
This video is for entertainment purposes only please do not attempt to copy or recreate. This is not a how to.
Please follow me on Instagram the_cjrshop.
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Fantastic video, agree with Barry. Hard work, and quickly done too. I dunno, whenever I watch other sparks I get the feeling they are so much quicker than I am!
Love the 205 1.9 gti. Had one for about 10 years in early 90s, modified to 170bhp, lowered, 0 to 60 is 5.72 secs over 150 mph on a track. Superb car.
Absolutely loved those 1.9 GTi's!
Another nice video Chris.
I use U clip push in saddles for conduit. Only one screw required per saddle and they space the conduit the correct distance off the wall for box entry too!
Looking forward to Part 2. 👍🏻
When I'm tightening up skts I make an audible click when I've finished, kind of like AvE with his wrench 👍
8:15 you just reminded me of something that i had forgotten about from a month or more ago, thank you
Great video, Chris. Love how you explain the process before you begin. Makes it much easier to follow what you're actually doing. Keep up the good work.
Vvv
Decent install that nice to see someone thats got some pride in thier work and not mugg a customer off.
Love the outside socket. Had a Screwfix outside socket last week where the actual socket connectors were flagged with the wrong polarity. Never had this before and was scratching my head for 20 mins for a line and earth reversal. Tool station here I come!
In reality. When you think about it....mass production... could be thousands out there.... doesn't anyone ever check this stuff?
Dammit! Just wired a shed like this for the first time, I REALLY wish I'd found this video beforehand!
Thanks for all of the detail, learnt a lot.
Why do I find myself watching these and even searching for others. Great vids 🙄
Probably fed up with cooking
A nicely aligned conduit install looks a million times better than the flexible Copex being used by some
nice work chris , you look like your ready for a holliday mate.
Thankyou for your interesting vidios.
Spot on pal . Easiest elec videos to watch on TH-cam 👍
Lovely work super neat. Great days work there!
Terrific video. I'm not a spark but I do appreciate a good tradesman at his work. Lovely job 👊
Top work fella 👌, like the look of the job. Looking forward to part 2
Do you not squirt a little bit silicone on the pipe or cable entry on the inside of the outside socket? A very small beed of clear silicone along the top of the socket and down the sides will definitely make sure there is never any water can get in
All surface wood, what a doddle ! Doing similar fit out at mo, solid walls and chases and cavity where possible. Fire alarm, cctv ,alarm, etc. Outside sockets i use silicone on screws and beads top and sides. Water gets in eventually, just something i have always done.
I’d fit the earth flylead with metal clad sockets, the reason being the back box is exposed to touch hence I wouldn’t be relying on the mounting screws. I know some of the manufacturer instructions for metal clad say the back box must have an earth wire terminated to it.
I always do, but the chances of the box becoming live unless by a cowboy, are negligible in reality...
Correct, when I was at college in the late 80's, we were taught to always install a 1.5mm supplementary bonding conductor to the back box. Technically it is a "Class 1" box and must be earthed as such. But regs are open to interpretation ;-)
The way I like to think about it is would anyone be happy to earth a metal clad back box and rely on the mounting screws to provide the earth to a socket front? They are both exposed conductive parts at the end of the day.
On the flip side of the coin, where the back box isn't accessible, as in a normal recessed socket where the socket front is earthed and there is a fixed lug I don't see the need for the flylead, but where a metal back box is accessible I always provide a proper earthed link.
It would be interesting on what competent person schemes have to say on this matter, both with metal clad and recessed back boxes.
Would the contact from the metal fascia along with the screws not give you enough confidence that the back box was sufficiently earthed in the event of a fault?
Personally I’d of ran a high level trunking with vertical drops to the outlets. I think it would look tidier. Good job tho.
that wonky bit of ply though 😬 neat job as always chris
Yes your correct I had to double check my laser hadn’t gone bad.🤣
Great job as usual. Don’t like the copex either.
However, black pvc conduit probably would look better than the white.
Yes I agree but client wanted white incase he decides to paint it
Awesome seein how different work is in other countries than the US! Good work man
Your video so great and the work so nice , as for the surface conduit , in our country the most of electricians use it in brick wall and in concrete ciling and i know that rong in bs standard but this think came on to us when the old britch engineers came to our country after 1970 and from that time we use the white pip in wall and ciling building becuse we don't have the flexible conduit in that time . So if you don't mind if i take your video and re use it for education and training purpose in my channel to show to some electricians that the withe pip not for interior installition ... and i lick you and gsh electrical and i waching both you from a long time .
If you do a 20mm hole and a 25mm hole each end the length of a female adapter with Male bush this works perfect on outside sockets as it creates a fixing aswell we always do this
Can't picture what you mean Andrew.
Me neither
Nice one Chris, really enjoy your explanations, and keep up the ranting! 👍
Annotated videos increase your follow-up. Another successful job done. well done,
Would love a video on how you connect the supply from the house to the mini board
Very “Scott Brown Carpentry” you been watching him
Why not 2 radials socket circuits or just 1 for it been a small installation! Ring mains are no longer used here in Ireland but still can be used according to Irish regs but will be soon phased out... And we no longer use T&E with unsleeved cpc conductors... Also the plastic consumer units used here are also to be phased out for the metal ones...
Great video Chris looking forward to Part 2 already...
I have always hated rings....if a kitchen circuit needs 32amp we use 4mm now and decent outlets
I dont understand why you would sleeve cpc within the T&E, surely if a live conductor becomes exposed from its own sleeve then the first thing you want it to do it contact the cpc?
Good work Chris. In New Zealand we should always install the wiring in the wall and no conduit. The sparkly always called on before lining. Interesting how I see in the uk you guys gear called in after the walls are lined.
Thank you for the great content. Appreciated.
Beaut Chris 👌👍👍👍🏉🏴
Nice job again like always
Thsnk you for this. Is there any reason you didn't put all lhe electrics behind thre inner wooden wall out of the way to make it look better?
Top vid mate - you’re humour is great ..... who cares what others do we all have our own way and we all think ours is best 👍😂
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼Neat job, I would take the TT earth into the consumer unit & connect it with the new earth rod, will help to reduce ELI.
Wait for part 2 👍
4:19 I usually put my tools miles away from where I'm working as well. It's a bit of free exercise!
Ha, ha... I think we all do.👍🏻
Along, along, a la la la la long!! Sorry Chris! Haha tip video!! As always!
Nice work
Nice job 👍
Great video ...would be great if you could film the testing of the circuits please shortly il be doing my 2391- 52 course.
Why don't they use single core cables in conduit rather than flat twin and earth, you are essentially triple insulating when putting it in conduit which is safe but unnecessary, with singles you can usually pull though easier in conduit. Great videos, keep them up mate.
Another great video Chris. Really enjoy watching how everything is done and explained step by step. 1.9 gti omg, that brings back memories.
You're funny mate... ermm... love your videos... ermm... please don't stop saying ermm... hahahahaha. Joking apart, your videos are very informative. Please keep sharing... ermm... thanks 🤣🤣🤣
When installing exterior boxes, if you put a bead of silicon sealant along the top and sides (but not the bottom) of the back of the box before you secure it to the building,as long as the silicone runs outside of or across the screw holes, you should never have water infiltration through the screws as any water running down the wall will hit the silicone before it hits the screw/conduit holes and run across the top of the box to the sides...Leaving the bottom open lets any water that does find its way past the silicone a way out so it doesn't accumulate and flood the box...
hi great job could you send me a link to those electrical boxes please?
Great job Chris, do you ever find the captive screws in metal clad front plates pop out and vanish forever? lol..I have many a time grrrr... :-)
never understand why people not electricians put single sockets outside when a double is just as easy and you know at some stage they going to wish it was a double well done chris onwards and upwards
@@AndyK.1 big and ugly lol maybe you should get one made by yves saint laurent
@@AndyK.1 lol..
No fluff straight into the work. How all TH-cam should be
No flexi con 😢😢
Right, no flexi crew christmas card for Chris then 😡
Alex Dougherty I’m going to Nicks for Christmas dinner this year.
@@Cjrelectrical 😂😂😂😂
@@Cjrelectrical cool.. All sparkies round to Nick Bundy's for a flexicon Christmas 😂 yo ho ho...
Upset after that slagging off at the start I dont see a single fabricated bend....... ah well
Hey, why did you choose to do a ring rather than a radial? Would you have needed to do two radials or was it another factor?
Nice job. Pity they didnt get you to 1st fix it before the plywood went on, save you having to use the conduit
Lot better than kopex, but why the inspection bends, wouldn't a slip bend been better.
Hi Chris, love the video thanks, may I ask you I am having my brick garage rewired and would like to install 20mm osb for the sockets and conduit, will the electrician have any bother screwing into the osb? Thank you Chris.
I never like that install done like that I always think it looks better 2x2 plastic trunking right round the top on top of your consumer unit then plastic conduit drops to switches and sockets it always looks better window side conduit down the corner then along under the window
Nice work. Could of just T'd off same height for the first three sockets on the left. Less work and less conduit.
Nice to see the conduit instead of the usual copex. I think yours looks a little more professional than your compadres!!!!
I would be interested to know how you priced a job like this and roughly what its worth based on the kit you supplied as well. I always work to a day rate with my clients as I never know how long a job will take and have no idea if I am making more money or losing out.
Did you said the House was already a TT system ? Just curious as to why you glanded the SWA into a plastic box when you could have exported the house earth and added an additional earth stake in parallel.
The swa supply from the house is earthing the new board, the new rod he's going to be installing will be covering the circuits in the new board
@@djwazz07 Yes the supply cable will be earthed from the house end. But my question, was just asking for the reason not to export the earth from the house to the shed..
The house is already a TT system, adding an extra stake in the shed makes sense but you could just add one in parallel reducing the overall Ze of the install. Saves messing around glanding off into a plastic box.
Can u run cable from consumer unit to a double outlet socket then just continue from double socket to double socket ?? With the widening going no further that the last output socket
❤how do you get the power from the main boad armoured.😊
I got a question if u can help in a 20mm conduit how many runs of 2.5mm solid cabe can I fit will 4 runs fit ?
Hi Chris. Can you tell me which torque screwdrivers for distibution boards do you use?
Do you ever use a sealant behind the box and between the wall..like around the cable/conduit entry or around the screws?
I'll have a tripod for the camera but f@$k the laser, I'll just use what evers on site to jack that up to the height needed 😂 fair play. Made me laugh.
Tidy job. Have you ever seen the schneider clic uk20 and uk25 conduit clips ? We use those have a look they are the dogs doolies compared to those saddles.
Good video this one. 👍🏼
Nice work Chris. Just for clarification you earth the armoured in the house gland it as normal int shed, but introduce an independent earth from a new earth spike. I’ve not done it like that before.
The SWA's cpc is connected to house, then should be insulated from the earth spike which does everything in the shed if you choose not to export the house earth
Conduit is a better finish looks better supported than the copex.
What was the need for junction box under the consumer unit🤔
I believe he said it's because he's earthing the shed separate from the house because it's a long way from the house....but don't quote me on that, I'm not a sparks so.....
It’s not a junction box. It’s simply a plastic box to gland the armoured cable into as I don’t want the metal armoured to touch the new metal consumer unit.
Good call Chris 👍
Nice job. Why ply first then wire. Could have lost all them cables and not used plastic conduit. Understand if it was an old workshop
Yeah i wondered that...
Hi ive built a leanto/shed to the gable of my bungalow and i want to run electricity directly into it to use bench drill and a mitre saw every now and then for basic past time. Any chance there is an easier way to do it.
Chris how do you go about deciding the spacing on your saddles / how many you're going to use per length etc, I'm curious as I hear and see diff things whilst at work
Check the onsite guide for spacing
I doubt the firemen responding to a fire in that shed are going to need to isolate the power as the fire will likely do it for them by melting the insulation on the main feed wires causing a dead-short which will trip the breaker for them...
Great vid - really enjoyed - just wondered why you didn't use a 4mm radial circuit instead of a ring for a simple shed/workshop - less work - less testing?
I'm curious too. There's more cable used it seemed as well.
Or two 20a radials, then the conduit could all have been 20mm except for the drop from the board. If the cost of another rcbo is a problem maybe take the lighting off a fused spur. Lots of ways to do it though
Should have been a radial.
Hey Chris great video. Quick question, what laser are u using ? I dropped mine the other day so looking for a replacement?
You missed the bead of mastic in an arc above the entry at the back to 1: stop water running into the back of the socket in heavy rain 2: to stop water soaking into and damaging the wood work!
Great video Chris. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Could you please advise who to contact in order to run electricity to a garage (part of a chain of garages)? I haven't seen anyone that has any wiring to any of them apart for some outside lights which goes underground.
I hope that makes sense. 😋
Thanks.
Nice vlog..... what made you choose TT over exporting house earth?
The main supply is already a TT and the out building is quite a distance from the house. The earth resistance at the out building if using the earth from the house would probably be quite high.
3.53, i almost shook my fist at the screen, ring final !!!!! he save it though,
Wy in UK you put the consumer unit so hilevel
You shouldn't really use silicone around electrical and plastic (as it gives off acetic acid fumes as it cures), either use intumescent mastic or CT1 (only if you have a tube open that is (coz at 10 quid a tube it ain't cheap and doesn't keep once opened , but does go a long way) and then you can have a good laugh at the next sparks that tries to remove it lol!
Maybe you could use hot glue?
why no adaptors on conduit to at least try for water tight. and I would have drilled holes through shed at slight angle to let water run off
You're getting quite good at all this playing with wires thingy...
Nice install, would it have been an option to run a 50 by 50 or 50 by 100 trunking around like a dado and tee out with conduits or adjacent to the trunking? No single core cables or just using what you're used to?
Price/cost
CJR ELECTRICAL With you on this, in the domestic world I can’t imagine clients willing to pay for Dado or 50x50 trunking that’s some serious cost compared to conduit! I’m just guessing here but I bet you’d lose the job to the next guy on price if that was quoted?
8 ads!... Chris loves the TH-cam money 😂👌😎
get an ad blocker. I didnt get any ads
part 2!
Great vid as usual. Just a shame you have to justify your personal standards of work to the jobs worth out there. How you get time to record & get a decent days work is beyond me.
Quite possibly the best video I have seen from any other the TH-camrs. Cheers Chris. Are you aware how naturally informative you are to a rookie spark like me?
Thanks
Is there any benefit in connecting the 2 earth rods together (house and garage) since the earth will be down from the house on the SWA anyway? Any disadvantage?
There is only 1 earth rod in the installation all will be revealed in part 2
Was gonna say the same more the better? Also do you take off House CU from incomer as distribution not as a MCB/RCBO?
@@stephencoulthard1718 Also a good point on the supply! Our workshop (in UK) is from the house from 1 of 2 CUs (1 house and 1also in the house for garage, outbuilding, workshop, external lights. From that CU a feed is taken from a 45A RCBO to the outbuilding CU which has RCBOs (sockets, lights, table saw, water heater). The house has an earth rod as does the outbuilding and the earth is continuous through the 6mm SWA (about 30m) to both rods all using 16mm earth cable. The house is TT. I guess thats the correct way of doing it but I have seen a split distribution but then you only have the fuse protecting the SWA.
My house CU on 10mm (original, might up grade as on 3/8 rod) then I Have 16mm> 5/8rod in Garage and on Hot Tub 5/8rod and now Electric Gate also needs 16mm2> 5/8rod. so that's 4 rods I am gonna have and all connected through. I picked larger rod because why not, when you need it ? I also like the SWA and the earth core contected.
@@ColinDH12345 Personally I wouldn't fault you, but my first job done alone and used for NICEIC assessment was a garage, taken out of mcb protected by rcd in the house, then rcbo'd in the garage. Assessor mentioned it would be better not to have RCDs/RCBOs in series as it would be a nuisance if a single event tripped both (being in different locations).
These days my preferred method, where possible, is to run SWA direct from CU in house (or wiskabox right up against side of CU to make terminating the SWA easier) to CU in shed, mcb only in house and RCBOs in garage/shed/whatever. This only applies where going direct to garage/shed with no stops for accessories like external sockets on route of course. The advantage is if something does cause an RCD trip while in use nobody needs to go marching through the house in dirty boots to go flick the switch back up.
if the supply to the shed is from the house TT system , that supply would most certainley be protected by a 30mA RCBO, therefore the rcbo's in the shed board are pointless, unless you have a time delay rcd at supply end
What if it's an old house and a TT system with zero RCD protection at the supply end?.. never assume ;-)
@@muzikman2008 if there was no RCD protection on a TT system , the submain would need RCD protection to allow the correct disconnection time of 1s, therfore it would be a logical approach to place 30mA RCD at the house end , therefore no need for rcd protection in the shed
@@pault4793 Agreed, but I have been to customers houses with TT systems, and No RCD whatsoever at the CU in the house, and fitted a 30mA RCD Shed CU because the customer didn't want the extra expense. I always recommend a 100mA RCD at the house CU and a 30mA on the shed end where possible on a TT system. Assuming all the Zs and Ze, cable sizes etc dictate that.
@@muzikman2008 since the introduction of 17th amd 3 with metal fuseboards, using double insulated tails and nylon large glands you dont need 100mA time delay RCD as virtually all circuits in a domestic have to be 30mA and if they didnt you still cant put a normal mcb due to high zE at front end. i think 100mA TD rcd is pointless , just my proffessional opinion, i suppose no 2 sparks are the same.
I don’t get why he couldn’t have just turned the box upside down on 9:40 for the position of knock outs to be central? I though could used these boxes either way? Can anyone elaborate for me please?
Think I would have run 2" trunking all the way around. Then future proofed for additional outlets. Why double insulated cable when the conduit runs are sound ?
Cost and client wanted conduit.
I was wondering why he did not use singles..
He explains he uses T&E as it’s circa £50 for a drum (Plus will get used on other jobs), that’s £50 for Twin and CPC...singles are £30 a drum...£90 almost double the cost on cable and might not be able to be used on another job for a while etc...money tied up in materials etc. That’s my understanding anyway, I would have done it exactly the same as this, In fact I have for similar jobs I’ve done.
@@JayTheSparky Exactly, I got some 1.5 single on my van for 3 years i bought for a job, used a few metres of it for a shed job, now gathering dust...just use T&E in domestic jobs. lol...
@@JayTheSparky Yes but time saved on running the cable thru the conduit would cover the cost. And extra room for more expansion.
What are these ring ccts you speak of? None of that in 🇭🇲
John Ward has a good video explaining them, worth a search if you're still unsure
how big was that space? Width X length?
Any actual reason to why he has to not import the earth from the house into the outbuilding ? Anyone care to explain ?
Has that plastic conduit been pvc solvent to the adaptors, with there being expansion and contraction ?
Mate, behave
Djdc 27 pardon what does this mean? you have to comply with regulations
@@angusbrown8707 technically you dont have to comply with regulations
Djdc 27 ok you do that and see what happens
@@angusbrown8707 literally nothing, you can depart from bs7671 as long as you work safely and competently...
Ok to use Nyyj cable instead of the swa cable?
Where?
@@Cjrelectrical spurred off from the electric cooker isolator switch and out to a shed 63A RCD with 4 mcb consumer box. The house has a gas cooker hooked up so the electric cooker power was sitting unused. 2 double sockets and a LED striplight.
Why do you waste a lot of cables on ring? 2 radial circuits plus one for lights, job done.
I do not understand why new installations ever use a ring, the original purpose of a ring circuit was to save copper and cable but a ring can overload the cable if the ring is not complete. As you say surely radials would have made more sense here.
why would you drop all the conduit down ti just run them back up, using more conduit and cable than necessary . is there a reason or just customer preference