Fantastic video, agree with Barry. Hard work, and quickly done too. I dunno, whenever I watch other sparks I get the feeling they are so much quicker than I am!
Great video, Chris. Love how you explain the process before you begin. Makes it much easier to follow what you're actually doing. Keep up the good work.
Another nice video Chris. I use U clip push in saddles for conduit. Only one screw required per saddle and they space the conduit the correct distance off the wall for box entry too! Looking forward to Part 2. 👍🏻
Love the outside socket. Had a Screwfix outside socket last week where the actual socket connectors were flagged with the wrong polarity. Never had this before and was scratching my head for 20 mins for a line and earth reversal. Tool station here I come!
Do you not squirt a little bit silicone on the pipe or cable entry on the inside of the outside socket? A very small beed of clear silicone along the top of the socket and down the sides will definitely make sure there is never any water can get in
I’d fit the earth flylead with metal clad sockets, the reason being the back box is exposed to touch hence I wouldn’t be relying on the mounting screws. I know some of the manufacturer instructions for metal clad say the back box must have an earth wire terminated to it.
Correct, when I was at college in the late 80's, we were taught to always install a 1.5mm supplementary bonding conductor to the back box. Technically it is a "Class 1" box and must be earthed as such. But regs are open to interpretation ;-)
The way I like to think about it is would anyone be happy to earth a metal clad back box and rely on the mounting screws to provide the earth to a socket front? They are both exposed conductive parts at the end of the day. On the flip side of the coin, where the back box isn't accessible, as in a normal recessed socket where the socket front is earthed and there is a fixed lug I don't see the need for the flylead, but where a metal back box is accessible I always provide a proper earthed link.
Would the contact from the metal fascia along with the screws not give you enough confidence that the back box was sufficiently earthed in the event of a fault?
All surface wood, what a doddle ! Doing similar fit out at mo, solid walls and chases and cavity where possible. Fire alarm, cctv ,alarm, etc. Outside sockets i use silicone on screws and beads top and sides. Water gets in eventually, just something i have always done.
Good work Chris. In New Zealand we should always install the wiring in the wall and no conduit. The sparkly always called on before lining. Interesting how I see in the uk you guys gear called in after the walls are lined.
If you do a 20mm hole and a 25mm hole each end the length of a female adapter with Male bush this works perfect on outside sockets as it creates a fixing aswell we always do this
Why not 2 radials socket circuits or just 1 for it been a small installation! Ring mains are no longer used here in Ireland but still can be used according to Irish regs but will be soon phased out... And we no longer use T&E with unsleeved cpc conductors... Also the plastic consumer units used here are also to be phased out for the metal ones... Great video Chris looking forward to Part 2 already...
I dont understand why you would sleeve cpc within the T&E, surely if a live conductor becomes exposed from its own sleeve then the first thing you want it to do it contact the cpc?
Your video so great and the work so nice , as for the surface conduit , in our country the most of electricians use it in brick wall and in concrete ciling and i know that rong in bs standard but this think came on to us when the old britch engineers came to our country after 1970 and from that time we use the white pip in wall and ciling building becuse we don't have the flexible conduit in that time . So if you don't mind if i take your video and re use it for education and training purpose in my channel to show to some electricians that the withe pip not for interior installition ... and i lick you and gsh electrical and i waching both you from a long time .
I would be interested to know how you priced a job like this and roughly what its worth based on the kit you supplied as well. I always work to a day rate with my clients as I never know how long a job will take and have no idea if I am making more money or losing out.
Hi Chris, love the video thanks, may I ask you I am having my brick garage rewired and would like to install 20mm osb for the sockets and conduit, will the electrician have any bother screwing into the osb? Thank you Chris.
Can u run cable from consumer unit to a double outlet socket then just continue from double socket to double socket ?? With the widening going no further that the last output socket
Hi ive built a leanto/shed to the gable of my bungalow and i want to run electricity directly into it to use bench drill and a mitre saw every now and then for basic past time. Any chance there is an easier way to do it.
The main supply is already a TT and the out building is quite a distance from the house. The earth resistance at the out building if using the earth from the house would probably be quite high.
Did you said the House was already a TT system ? Just curious as to why you glanded the SWA into a plastic box when you could have exported the house earth and added an additional earth stake in parallel.
@@djwazz07 Yes the supply cable will be earthed from the house end. But my question, was just asking for the reason not to export the earth from the house to the shed.. The house is already a TT system, adding an extra stake in the shed makes sense but you could just add one in parallel reducing the overall Ze of the install. Saves messing around glanding off into a plastic box.
Chris how do you go about deciding the spacing on your saddles / how many you're going to use per length etc, I'm curious as I hear and see diff things whilst at work
Why don't they use single core cables in conduit rather than flat twin and earth, you are essentially triple insulating when putting it in conduit which is safe but unnecessary, with singles you can usually pull though easier in conduit. Great videos, keep them up mate.
Great vid - really enjoyed - just wondered why you didn't use a 4mm radial circuit instead of a ring for a simple shed/workshop - less work - less testing?
Or two 20a radials, then the conduit could all have been 20mm except for the drop from the board. If the cost of another rcbo is a problem maybe take the lighting off a fused spur. Lots of ways to do it though
I believe he said it's because he's earthing the shed separate from the house because it's a long way from the house....but don't quote me on that, I'm not a sparks so.....
It’s not a junction box. It’s simply a plastic box to gland the armoured cable into as I don’t want the metal armoured to touch the new metal consumer unit.
Jamie Vaughan Well for one there are knockouts specifically for conduit entry. For two if you didn’t have conduit entry boxes making an entry to neatly align with the PVC trunking would be rough, Time consuming. I’ve only ever seen PVC trunking used with plastic patresses. Note. I’ve never seen a PVC trunking install with metal clad sockets. As a Sparkie it’s just not industry standard
When installing exterior boxes, if you put a bead of silicon sealant along the top and sides (but not the bottom) of the back of the box before you secure it to the building,as long as the silicone runs outside of or across the screw holes, you should never have water infiltration through the screws as any water running down the wall will hit the silicone before it hits the screw/conduit holes and run across the top of the box to the sides...Leaving the bottom open lets any water that does find its way past the silicone a way out so it doesn't accumulate and flood the box...
Quite possibly the best video I have seen from any other the TH-camrs. Cheers Chris. Are you aware how naturally informative you are to a rookie spark like me?
Nice install, would it have been an option to run a 50 by 50 or 50 by 100 trunking around like a dado and tee out with conduits or adjacent to the trunking? No single core cables or just using what you're used to?
CJR ELECTRICAL With you on this, in the domestic world I can’t imagine clients willing to pay for Dado or 50x50 trunking that’s some serious cost compared to conduit! I’m just guessing here but I bet you’d lose the job to the next guy on price if that was quoted?
Is there any benefit in connecting the 2 earth rods together (house and garage) since the earth will be down from the house on the SWA anyway? Any disadvantage?
@@stephencoulthard1718 Also a good point on the supply! Our workshop (in UK) is from the house from 1 of 2 CUs (1 house and 1also in the house for garage, outbuilding, workshop, external lights. From that CU a feed is taken from a 45A RCBO to the outbuilding CU which has RCBOs (sockets, lights, table saw, water heater). The house has an earth rod as does the outbuilding and the earth is continuous through the 6mm SWA (about 30m) to both rods all using 16mm earth cable. The house is TT. I guess thats the correct way of doing it but I have seen a split distribution but then you only have the fuse protecting the SWA.
My house CU on 10mm (original, might up grade as on 3/8 rod) then I Have 16mm> 5/8rod in Garage and on Hot Tub 5/8rod and now Electric Gate also needs 16mm2> 5/8rod. so that's 4 rods I am gonna have and all connected through. I picked larger rod because why not, when you need it ? I also like the SWA and the earth core contected.
@@ColinDH12345 Personally I wouldn't fault you, but my first job done alone and used for NICEIC assessment was a garage, taken out of mcb protected by rcd in the house, then rcbo'd in the garage. Assessor mentioned it would be better not to have RCDs/RCBOs in series as it would be a nuisance if a single event tripped both (being in different locations). These days my preferred method, where possible, is to run SWA direct from CU in house (or wiskabox right up against side of CU to make terminating the SWA easier) to CU in shed, mcb only in house and RCBOs in garage/shed/whatever. This only applies where going direct to garage/shed with no stops for accessories like external sockets on route of course. The advantage is if something does cause an RCD trip while in use nobody needs to go marching through the house in dirty boots to go flick the switch back up.
@@Cjrelectrical spurred off from the electric cooker isolator switch and out to a shed 63A RCD with 4 mcb consumer box. The house has a gas cooker hooked up so the electric cooker power was sitting unused. 2 double sockets and a LED striplight.
Nice work Chris. Just for clarification you earth the armoured in the house gland it as normal int shed, but introduce an independent earth from a new earth spike. I’ve not done it like that before.
The SWA's cpc is connected to house, then should be insulated from the earth spike which does everything in the shed if you choose not to export the house earth
never understand why people not electricians put single sockets outside when a double is just as easy and you know at some stage they going to wish it was a double well done chris onwards and upwards
Think I would have run 2" trunking all the way around. Then future proofed for additional outlets. Why double insulated cable when the conduit runs are sound ?
He explains he uses T&E as it’s circa £50 for a drum (Plus will get used on other jobs), that’s £50 for Twin and CPC...singles are £30 a drum...£90 almost double the cost on cable and might not be able to be used on another job for a while etc...money tied up in materials etc. That’s my understanding anyway, I would have done it exactly the same as this, In fact I have for similar jobs I’ve done.
@@JayTheSparky Exactly, I got some 1.5 single on my van for 3 years i bought for a job, used a few metres of it for a shed job, now gathering dust...just use T&E in domestic jobs. lol...
Great vid as usual. Just a shame you have to justify your personal standards of work to the jobs worth out there. How you get time to record & get a decent days work is beyond me.
Great video Chris. Thanks for sharing. 👍 Could you please advise who to contact in order to run electricity to a garage (part of a chain of garages)? I haven't seen anyone that has any wiring to any of them apart for some outside lights which goes underground. I hope that makes sense. 😋 Thanks.
@@ashmanelectricalservices4318 Yeah agreed, but in practice I have had conductors chew up and break... leaving them to fall out, depends whether its a clamp terminal or a direct screw down terminal... I get the point though...
I do not understand why new installations ever use a ring, the original purpose of a ring circuit was to save copper and cable but a ring can overload the cable if the ring is not complete. As you say surely radials would have made more sense here.
why would you drop all the conduit down ti just run them back up, using more conduit and cable than necessary . is there a reason or just customer preference
I doubt the firemen responding to a fire in that shed are going to need to isolate the power as the fire will likely do it for them by melting the insulation on the main feed wires causing a dead-short which will trip the breaker for them...
I don’t get why he couldn’t have just turned the box upside down on 9:40 for the position of knock outs to be central? I though could used these boxes either way? Can anyone elaborate for me please?
No, it's just easier to wire conduit in single core cables as they're more flexible to get round bends in conduit. It shouldn't be too much of a problem getting 2x 2.5 t&e and 1x 1.5 t&e through a bit of 25mm conduit.
@@Cjrelectrical i was wondering why you didn't use 20A radials, but yeah I would do the same... having said that a 20A radial would prob bear the inrush currents depending on what they're running...32A ring is safer, but what size cable is feeding the shed? just curious...
zjzozn part L ? I’m sure the efficiency regarding power and fuel of the consumer will be fine at that height ! 😂 Might be some discrepancies with part M though but for a shed practicality and customer requests usually come first 👍👍
Way I see it is sheds come under part p and part p “recommends” compliance with part M switch heights between 1350-1450. Each to their own though and I could be wrong and talking bollocks cos not looked it up !! 👍👍
if the supply to the shed is from the house TT system , that supply would most certainley be protected by a 30mA RCBO, therefore the rcbo's in the shed board are pointless, unless you have a time delay rcd at supply end
@@muzikman2008 if there was no RCD protection on a TT system , the submain would need RCD protection to allow the correct disconnection time of 1s, therfore it would be a logical approach to place 30mA RCD at the house end , therefore no need for rcd protection in the shed
@@pault4793 Agreed, but I have been to customers houses with TT systems, and No RCD whatsoever at the CU in the house, and fitted a 30mA RCD Shed CU because the customer didn't want the extra expense. I always recommend a 100mA RCD at the house CU and a 30mA on the shed end where possible on a TT system. Assuming all the Zs and Ze, cable sizes etc dictate that.
@@muzikman2008 since the introduction of 17th amd 3 with metal fuseboards, using double insulated tails and nylon large glands you dont need 100mA time delay RCD as virtually all circuits in a domestic have to be 30mA and if they didnt you still cant put a normal mcb due to high zE at front end. i think 100mA TD rcd is pointless , just my proffessional opinion, i suppose no 2 sparks are the same.
How do you join the 25mm PVC conduit with 20mm hole in the metal box? Do you make the hole bigger to accommodate the 25 adaptor or you use some kind of reducer?
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Fantastic video, agree with Barry. Hard work, and quickly done too. I dunno, whenever I watch other sparks I get the feeling they are so much quicker than I am!
Absolutely loved those 1.9 GTi's!
Great video, Chris. Love how you explain the process before you begin. Makes it much easier to follow what you're actually doing. Keep up the good work.
Vvv
Decent install that nice to see someone thats got some pride in thier work and not mugg a customer off.
Love the 205 1.9 gti. Had one for about 10 years in early 90s, modified to 170bhp, lowered, 0 to 60 is 5.72 secs over 150 mph on a track. Superb car.
Another nice video Chris.
I use U clip push in saddles for conduit. Only one screw required per saddle and they space the conduit the correct distance off the wall for box entry too!
Looking forward to Part 2. 👍🏻
8:15 you just reminded me of something that i had forgotten about from a month or more ago, thank you
Dammit! Just wired a shed like this for the first time, I REALLY wish I'd found this video beforehand!
Thanks for all of the detail, learnt a lot.
nice work chris , you look like your ready for a holliday mate.
Thankyou for your interesting vidios.
Lovely work super neat. Great days work there!
A nicely aligned conduit install looks a million times better than the flexible Copex being used by some
Top work fella 👌, like the look of the job. Looking forward to part 2
Terrific video. I'm not a spark but I do appreciate a good tradesman at his work. Lovely job 👊
Spot on pal . Easiest elec videos to watch on TH-cam 👍
Awesome seein how different work is in other countries than the US! Good work man
Love the outside socket. Had a Screwfix outside socket last week where the actual socket connectors were flagged with the wrong polarity. Never had this before and was scratching my head for 20 mins for a line and earth reversal. Tool station here I come!
In reality. When you think about it....mass production... could be thousands out there.... doesn't anyone ever check this stuff?
When I'm tightening up skts I make an audible click when I've finished, kind of like AvE with his wrench 👍
Do you not squirt a little bit silicone on the pipe or cable entry on the inside of the outside socket? A very small beed of clear silicone along the top of the socket and down the sides will definitely make sure there is never any water can get in
I’d fit the earth flylead with metal clad sockets, the reason being the back box is exposed to touch hence I wouldn’t be relying on the mounting screws. I know some of the manufacturer instructions for metal clad say the back box must have an earth wire terminated to it.
I always do, but the chances of the box becoming live unless by a cowboy, are negligible in reality...
Correct, when I was at college in the late 80's, we were taught to always install a 1.5mm supplementary bonding conductor to the back box. Technically it is a "Class 1" box and must be earthed as such. But regs are open to interpretation ;-)
The way I like to think about it is would anyone be happy to earth a metal clad back box and rely on the mounting screws to provide the earth to a socket front? They are both exposed conductive parts at the end of the day.
On the flip side of the coin, where the back box isn't accessible, as in a normal recessed socket where the socket front is earthed and there is a fixed lug I don't see the need for the flylead, but where a metal back box is accessible I always provide a proper earthed link.
It would be interesting on what competent person schemes have to say on this matter, both with metal clad and recessed back boxes.
Would the contact from the metal fascia along with the screws not give you enough confidence that the back box was sufficiently earthed in the event of a fault?
Why do I find myself watching these and even searching for others. Great vids 🙄
Probably fed up with cooking
Nice one Chris, really enjoy your explanations, and keep up the ranting! 👍
Another great video Chris. Really enjoy watching how everything is done and explained step by step. 1.9 gti omg, that brings back memories.
All surface wood, what a doddle ! Doing similar fit out at mo, solid walls and chases and cavity where possible. Fire alarm, cctv ,alarm, etc. Outside sockets i use silicone on screws and beads top and sides. Water gets in eventually, just something i have always done.
Nice job again like always
that wonky bit of ply though 😬 neat job as always chris
Yes your correct I had to double check my laser hadn’t gone bad.🤣
Would love a video on how you connect the supply from the house to the mini board
Good work Chris. In New Zealand we should always install the wiring in the wall and no conduit. The sparkly always called on before lining. Interesting how I see in the uk you guys gear called in after the walls are lined.
Thsnk you for this. Is there any reason you didn't put all lhe electrics behind thre inner wooden wall out of the way to make it look better?
If you do a 20mm hole and a 25mm hole each end the length of a female adapter with Male bush this works perfect on outside sockets as it creates a fixing aswell we always do this
Can't picture what you mean Andrew.
Me neither
Annotated videos increase your follow-up. Another successful job done. well done,
Why not 2 radials socket circuits or just 1 for it been a small installation! Ring mains are no longer used here in Ireland but still can be used according to Irish regs but will be soon phased out... And we no longer use T&E with unsleeved cpc conductors... Also the plastic consumer units used here are also to be phased out for the metal ones...
Great video Chris looking forward to Part 2 already...
I have always hated rings....if a kitchen circuit needs 32amp we use 4mm now and decent outlets
I dont understand why you would sleeve cpc within the T&E, surely if a live conductor becomes exposed from its own sleeve then the first thing you want it to do it contact the cpc?
Personally I’d of ran a high level trunking with vertical drops to the outlets. I think it would look tidier. Good job tho.
Your video so great and the work so nice , as for the surface conduit , in our country the most of electricians use it in brick wall and in concrete ciling and i know that rong in bs standard but this think came on to us when the old britch engineers came to our country after 1970 and from that time we use the white pip in wall and ciling building becuse we don't have the flexible conduit in that time . So if you don't mind if i take your video and re use it for education and training purpose in my channel to show to some electricians that the withe pip not for interior installition ... and i lick you and gsh electrical and i waching both you from a long time .
Great job as usual. Don’t like the copex either.
However, black pvc conduit probably would look better than the white.
Yes I agree but client wanted white incase he decides to paint it
Top vid mate - you’re humour is great ..... who cares what others do we all have our own way and we all think ours is best 👍😂
No flexi con 😢😢
Right, no flexi crew christmas card for Chris then 😡
Alex Dougherty I’m going to Nicks for Christmas dinner this year.
@@Cjrelectrical 😂😂😂😂
@@Cjrelectrical cool.. All sparkies round to Nick Bundy's for a flexicon Christmas 😂 yo ho ho...
Upset after that slagging off at the start I dont see a single fabricated bend....... ah well
Beaut Chris 👌👍👍👍🏉🏴
I would be interested to know how you priced a job like this and roughly what its worth based on the kit you supplied as well. I always work to a day rate with my clients as I never know how long a job will take and have no idea if I am making more money or losing out.
Hi Chris, love the video thanks, may I ask you I am having my brick garage rewired and would like to install 20mm osb for the sockets and conduit, will the electrician have any bother screwing into the osb? Thank you Chris.
Hi Chris. Can you tell me which torque screwdrivers for distibution boards do you use?
4:19 I usually put my tools miles away from where I'm working as well. It's a bit of free exercise!
Ha, ha... I think we all do.👍🏻
Great job Chris, do you ever find the captive screws in metal clad front plates pop out and vanish forever? lol..I have many a time grrrr... :-)
❤how do you get the power from the main boad armoured.😊
Hey, why did you choose to do a ring rather than a radial? Would you have needed to do two radials or was it another factor?
You're funny mate... ermm... love your videos... ermm... please don't stop saying ermm... hahahahaha. Joking apart, your videos are very informative. Please keep sharing... ermm... thanks 🤣🤣🤣
Great video ...would be great if you could film the testing of the circuits please shortly il be doing my 2391- 52 course.
Can u run cable from consumer unit to a double outlet socket then just continue from double socket to double socket ?? With the widening going no further that the last output socket
hi great job could you send me a link to those electrical boxes please?
I got a question if u can help in a 20mm conduit how many runs of 2.5mm solid cabe can I fit will 4 runs fit ?
Hi ive built a leanto/shed to the gable of my bungalow and i want to run electricity directly into it to use bench drill and a mitre saw every now and then for basic past time. Any chance there is an easier way to do it.
Nice vlog..... what made you choose TT over exporting house earth?
The main supply is already a TT and the out building is quite a distance from the house. The earth resistance at the out building if using the earth from the house would probably be quite high.
Nice job 👍
Hey Chris great video. Quick question, what laser are u using ? I dropped mine the other day so looking for a replacement?
Did you said the House was already a TT system ? Just curious as to why you glanded the SWA into a plastic box when you could have exported the house earth and added an additional earth stake in parallel.
The swa supply from the house is earthing the new board, the new rod he's going to be installing will be covering the circuits in the new board
@@djwazz07 Yes the supply cable will be earthed from the house end. But my question, was just asking for the reason not to export the earth from the house to the shed..
The house is already a TT system, adding an extra stake in the shed makes sense but you could just add one in parallel reducing the overall Ze of the install. Saves messing around glanding off into a plastic box.
Chris how do you go about deciding the spacing on your saddles / how many you're going to use per length etc, I'm curious as I hear and see diff things whilst at work
Check the onsite guide for spacing
Do you ever use a sealant behind the box and between the wall..like around the cable/conduit entry or around the screws?
Along, along, a la la la la long!! Sorry Chris! Haha tip video!! As always!
Nice work
Why don't they use single core cables in conduit rather than flat twin and earth, you are essentially triple insulating when putting it in conduit which is safe but unnecessary, with singles you can usually pull though easier in conduit. Great videos, keep them up mate.
Lot better than kopex, but why the inspection bends, wouldn't a slip bend been better.
Great vid - really enjoyed - just wondered why you didn't use a 4mm radial circuit instead of a ring for a simple shed/workshop - less work - less testing?
I'm curious too. There's more cable used it seemed as well.
Or two 20a radials, then the conduit could all have been 20mm except for the drop from the board. If the cost of another rcbo is a problem maybe take the lighting off a fused spur. Lots of ways to do it though
Should have been a radial.
No fluff straight into the work. How all TH-cam should be
Very “Scott Brown Carpentry” you been watching him
Conduit is a better finish looks better supported than the copex.
What was the need for junction box under the consumer unit🤔
I believe he said it's because he's earthing the shed separate from the house because it's a long way from the house....but don't quote me on that, I'm not a sparks so.....
It’s not a junction box. It’s simply a plastic box to gland the armoured cable into as I don’t want the metal armoured to touch the new metal consumer unit.
Good call Chris 👍
Wy in UK you put the consumer unit so hilevel
What are these ring ccts you speak of? None of that in 🇭🇲
John Ward has a good video explaining them, worth a search if you're still unsure
👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼Neat job, I would take the TT earth into the consumer unit & connect it with the new earth rod, will help to reduce ELI.
Wait for part 2 👍
Neat job Chris.. was 2" pvc trunking an option tho?
With Metal clad sockets? I don’t think so.
And why not?
Jamie Vaughan Well for one there are knockouts specifically for conduit entry. For two if you didn’t have conduit entry boxes making an entry to neatly align with the PVC trunking would be rough, Time consuming. I’ve only ever seen PVC trunking used with plastic patresses.
Note. I’ve never seen a PVC trunking install with metal clad sockets. As a Sparkie it’s just not industry standard
That's why we use 20mm holesaw cutters and adaptors.
Jamie Vaughan Must be a new thing then. Never saw them in the 15 years as a sparkie in the UK
When installing exterior boxes, if you put a bead of silicon sealant along the top and sides (but not the bottom) of the back of the box before you secure it to the building,as long as the silicone runs outside of or across the screw holes, you should never have water infiltration through the screws as any water running down the wall will hit the silicone before it hits the screw/conduit holes and run across the top of the box to the sides...Leaving the bottom open lets any water that does find its way past the silicone a way out so it doesn't accumulate and flood the box...
Quite possibly the best video I have seen from any other the TH-camrs. Cheers Chris. Are you aware how naturally informative you are to a rookie spark like me?
Nice to see the conduit instead of the usual copex. I think yours looks a little more professional than your compadres!!!!
Nice install, would it have been an option to run a 50 by 50 or 50 by 100 trunking around like a dado and tee out with conduits or adjacent to the trunking? No single core cables or just using what you're used to?
Price/cost
CJR ELECTRICAL With you on this, in the domestic world I can’t imagine clients willing to pay for Dado or 50x50 trunking that’s some serious cost compared to conduit! I’m just guessing here but I bet you’d lose the job to the next guy on price if that was quoted?
Is there any benefit in connecting the 2 earth rods together (house and garage) since the earth will be down from the house on the SWA anyway? Any disadvantage?
There is only 1 earth rod in the installation all will be revealed in part 2
Was gonna say the same more the better? Also do you take off House CU from incomer as distribution not as a MCB/RCBO?
@@stephencoulthard1718 Also a good point on the supply! Our workshop (in UK) is from the house from 1 of 2 CUs (1 house and 1also in the house for garage, outbuilding, workshop, external lights. From that CU a feed is taken from a 45A RCBO to the outbuilding CU which has RCBOs (sockets, lights, table saw, water heater). The house has an earth rod as does the outbuilding and the earth is continuous through the 6mm SWA (about 30m) to both rods all using 16mm earth cable. The house is TT. I guess thats the correct way of doing it but I have seen a split distribution but then you only have the fuse protecting the SWA.
My house CU on 10mm (original, might up grade as on 3/8 rod) then I Have 16mm> 5/8rod in Garage and on Hot Tub 5/8rod and now Electric Gate also needs 16mm2> 5/8rod. so that's 4 rods I am gonna have and all connected through. I picked larger rod because why not, when you need it ? I also like the SWA and the earth core contected.
@@ColinDH12345 Personally I wouldn't fault you, but my first job done alone and used for NICEIC assessment was a garage, taken out of mcb protected by rcd in the house, then rcbo'd in the garage. Assessor mentioned it would be better not to have RCDs/RCBOs in series as it would be a nuisance if a single event tripped both (being in different locations).
These days my preferred method, where possible, is to run SWA direct from CU in house (or wiskabox right up against side of CU to make terminating the SWA easier) to CU in shed, mcb only in house and RCBOs in garage/shed/whatever. This only applies where going direct to garage/shed with no stops for accessories like external sockets on route of course. The advantage is if something does cause an RCD trip while in use nobody needs to go marching through the house in dirty boots to go flick the switch back up.
Ok to use Nyyj cable instead of the swa cable?
Where?
@@Cjrelectrical spurred off from the electric cooker isolator switch and out to a shed 63A RCD with 4 mcb consumer box. The house has a gas cooker hooked up so the electric cooker power was sitting unused. 2 double sockets and a LED striplight.
Has that plastic conduit been pvc solvent to the adaptors, with there being expansion and contraction ?
Mate, behave
Djdc 27 pardon what does this mean? you have to comply with regulations
@@angusbrown8707 technically you dont have to comply with regulations
Djdc 27 ok you do that and see what happens
@@angusbrown8707 literally nothing, you can depart from bs7671 as long as you work safely and competently...
Nice job. Why ply first then wire. Could have lost all them cables and not used plastic conduit. Understand if it was an old workshop
Yeah i wondered that...
Nice work Chris. Just for clarification you earth the armoured in the house gland it as normal int shed, but introduce an independent earth from a new earth spike. I’ve not done it like that before.
The SWA's cpc is connected to house, then should be insulated from the earth spike which does everything in the shed if you choose not to export the house earth
Nice job. Pity they didnt get you to 1st fix it before the plywood went on, save you having to use the conduit
never understand why people not electricians put single sockets outside when a double is just as easy and you know at some stage they going to wish it was a double well done chris onwards and upwards
@@AndyK.1 big and ugly lol maybe you should get one made by yves saint laurent
@@AndyK.1 lol..
What work boots do you wear CHRIS?
Nice work. Could of just T'd off same height for the first three sockets on the left. Less work and less conduit.
Think I would have run 2" trunking all the way around. Then future proofed for additional outlets. Why double insulated cable when the conduit runs are sound ?
Cost and client wanted conduit.
I was wondering why he did not use singles..
He explains he uses T&E as it’s circa £50 for a drum (Plus will get used on other jobs), that’s £50 for Twin and CPC...singles are £30 a drum...£90 almost double the cost on cable and might not be able to be used on another job for a while etc...money tied up in materials etc. That’s my understanding anyway, I would have done it exactly the same as this, In fact I have for similar jobs I’ve done.
@@JayTheSparky Exactly, I got some 1.5 single on my van for 3 years i bought for a job, used a few metres of it for a shed job, now gathering dust...just use T&E in domestic jobs. lol...
@@JayTheSparky Yes but time saved on running the cable thru the conduit would cover the cost. And extra room for more expansion.
Great vid as usual. Just a shame you have to justify your personal standards of work to the jobs worth out there. How you get time to record & get a decent days work is beyond me.
Great video Chris. Thanks for sharing. 👍
Could you please advise who to contact in order to run electricity to a garage (part of a chain of garages)? I haven't seen anyone that has any wiring to any of them apart for some outside lights which goes underground.
I hope that makes sense. 😋
Thanks.
Thank you for the great content. Appreciated.
what laser marker do you use?
Any point doubling the earths over if they’re both going in the same terminal anyway? Nice vid tho pal, learnt a lot
Always best to try fill the terminal hole as best as you can... 1.0mm or 1.5mm sq definitely double over.
@@ashmanelectricalservices4318 Yeah agreed, but in practice I have had conductors chew up and break... leaving them to fall out, depends whether its a clamp terminal or a direct screw down terminal... I get the point though...
Why do you waste a lot of cables on ring? 2 radial circuits plus one for lights, job done.
I do not understand why new installations ever use a ring, the original purpose of a ring circuit was to save copper and cable but a ring can overload the cable if the ring is not complete. As you say surely radials would have made more sense here.
why no adaptors on conduit to at least try for water tight. and I would have drilled holes through shed at slight angle to let water run off
why would you drop all the conduit down ti just run them back up, using more conduit and cable than necessary . is there a reason or just customer preference
I doubt the firemen responding to a fire in that shed are going to need to isolate the power as the fire will likely do it for them by melting the insulation on the main feed wires causing a dead-short which will trip the breaker for them...
I don’t get why he couldn’t have just turned the box upside down on 9:40 for the position of knock outs to be central? I though could used these boxes either way? Can anyone elaborate for me please?
Pvc conduit with metal clad sockets?
whats wrong with that?...elaborate..
@@muzikman2008 looks awful... Mixing pvc conduit and metal clad...
@@ashleyrussell4288 I quite like it lol, each to their own I suppose.
Any actual reason to why he has to not import the earth from the house into the outbuilding ? Anyone care to explain ?
Is Twin & Earth in conduit was found at?
No, it's just easier to wire conduit in single core cables as they're more flexible to get round bends in conduit. It shouldn't be too much of a problem getting 2x 2.5 t&e and 1x 1.5 t&e through a bit of 25mm conduit.
Is the client going to paint the walls? If so, I'd have waited until after that.
Also, why use a ring main in a shed?
No painting and he has a 25 amp Piece of equipment
@@Cjrelectrical i was wondering why you didn't use 20A radials, but yeah I would do the same... having said that a 20A radial would prob bear the inrush currents depending on what they're running...32A ring is safer, but what size cable is feeding the shed? just curious...
Will the CU height meet regs? Part L ?
zjzozn part L ? I’m sure the efficiency regarding power and fuel of the consumer will be fine at that height ! 😂 Might be some discrepancies with part M though but for a shed practicality and customer requests usually come first 👍👍
Is this a dwelling?
Way I see it is sheds come under part p and part p “recommends” compliance with part M switch heights between 1350-1450. Each to their own though and I could be wrong and talking bollocks cos not looked it up !! 👍👍
@@lammy2304 lol :-)
if the supply to the shed is from the house TT system , that supply would most certainley be protected by a 30mA RCBO, therefore the rcbo's in the shed board are pointless, unless you have a time delay rcd at supply end
What if it's an old house and a TT system with zero RCD protection at the supply end?.. never assume ;-)
@@muzikman2008 if there was no RCD protection on a TT system , the submain would need RCD protection to allow the correct disconnection time of 1s, therfore it would be a logical approach to place 30mA RCD at the house end , therefore no need for rcd protection in the shed
@@pault4793 Agreed, but I have been to customers houses with TT systems, and No RCD whatsoever at the CU in the house, and fitted a 30mA RCD Shed CU because the customer didn't want the extra expense. I always recommend a 100mA RCD at the house CU and a 30mA on the shed end where possible on a TT system. Assuming all the Zs and Ze, cable sizes etc dictate that.
@@muzikman2008 since the introduction of 17th amd 3 with metal fuseboards, using double insulated tails and nylon large glands you dont need 100mA time delay RCD as virtually all circuits in a domestic have to be 30mA and if they didnt you still cant put a normal mcb due to high zE at front end. i think 100mA TD rcd is pointless , just my proffessional opinion, i suppose no 2 sparks are the same.
Why is the conduit so low down
How do you join the 25mm PVC conduit with 20mm hole in the metal box? Do you make the hole bigger to accommodate the 25 adaptor or you use some kind of reducer?