Words cannot describe my love for the WJ. Might have to buy another one after watching this, always a fun vehicle to work on. Great video btw, I look forward to seeing yours restored to full working order.
My dad used to have a WJ Grand Cherokee when I was a kid, and this is my story about it: It was July 2010, and we were on our way in our Vauxhall Zafira to pick up my dad’s new car to replace his old Vauxhall Frontera, a 2002 (52-reg) Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the 4.7-liter Chrysler PowerTech V8 and 5-speed automatic, finished in a dark metallic blue with a black leather interior. While we were driving the last few hundred yards to the seller’s house to collect DU52XKW, I caught first sight of it in the windscreen, and after we pulled up at the seller’s house, we got out of our car and went over to inspect it.
The main reason why me and my family consider it to be one of the most comfortable cars we’ve ever owned, and why I consider it to me one of my favourite cars my family has ever had, was the seats, as they were some of the most comfortable of any car I had ever, ever sat in - when 10-year-old me sat down on them for the first time, I was in heaven as they were just oh-so-comfy - it wasn’t so much a car as a giant sofa with wheels and an engine, the Americans really knew how to make proper car seats back then!
Since then, the only car I’ve sat in that has even come close to how comfortable the seats in the Jeep were was an Infiniti M saloon (sedan in the US) I sat in while me and my family were at the Driffield Motor Show in 2013.
When we got home, I thought it was a much better car than his old Frontera, as it was more practical being a 5-door, and much more comfortable too.
The ultimate test for our Jeep came in August 2010, when we went on a caravan holiday to Great Yarmouth in it. During the extremely long and tedious 150+ mile drive, it proved to be well up to the challenge of hauling our Swift Conqueror caravan to the campsite we were going to be staying at, thanks to the incredible pulling power of that V8 - even if it did make the car a TREMENDOUS gas hog and went through gas like there was no tomorrow, but it did make a very nice noise which we called the “V8 roar”.
It also proved to be a very comfortable car to travel in as it ate up the miles, mainly because of how unbelievably comfortable and plush the seats were. On the way there, I watched one of my Top Gear DVDs on the aftermarket DVD headrests that we’d had installed in it, while my sister watched one of her Hello Kitty DVDs.
One day during our holiday, after we went to the nearby Tesco, while my mum was loading up the boot (trunk in the US) with shopping, my dad decided to “V8-roar” her by revving the engine as she packed the shopping away - she must have got a bit of a surprise when he did that!
Unfortunately, our holiday was cut short due to heavy rain the following day, and even though we only had the Jeep for 2 months, I still consider it to be one of my favourite cars out of all the cars my family has ever owned.
Looking forward to this new series ! Have a 2002 WJ Overland with 87m original miles and HO motor. Followed your earlier WJ videos, and love the way you video and detail your work. Good luck on this new series!
I almost bought an Overland before I got my old white one years ago but found some signs of crash damage on it. Still love that package and the HO motor! Yours sounds great!
The wife and I got our 2001 WJ Euro export model (3.1tdi variant) back in March 2013. She cost us 2.5k with 97k miles and she's now on 127k, making it an average 3k miles per year we've done while owning her. Sure, she's had a lot of stuff repaired and replaced over the years, which is why I love watching anything WJ related for picking up hints and tips on maintenance, problem solving, etc to keep this grandma truck on the road. Keep up the good work on vehicle repairs, as I'm finding your material most excellent and informative.
My 2004 is my favorite vehicle of the last 2 decades. My son gave me his 2017 Chevy Silverado Z71 for my birthday so it will become my adventure/fishing ride in the furure. Yea, I raised a great kid.
Looking forward to the electrical follow up videos. My 04 Overland passenger side windows and locks no longer work. The Driver side works fine. I am good mechanically not electric!! Looking forward to it.
Electrical diag video is nearly done, going up definitely next week! Since I had it handy, I did a bit of checking on the passenger door module...long reply but maybe helpful? For the Passenger door module, looks like the Orange/White wire at it's connector should be fused battery positive (12v), and the Black is ground. If you have no power, but ground seems ok, then that orange/white wire goes to connector C2, pin 36 it appears, on the distribution junction block. It then leaves there on Connector C4 (two pin connector with heavier gauge wiring on front of junction box) as same color, orange white. From there it appears to go to underhood fuse block, Fuse 12 (50amp). From connector C4, it feeds both the driver and passenger modules - so since your driver door is working, that means any wiring past that, as well as the main 50amp fuse should be ok. Thus, I would check for power: - At Pin 36 (orange/white wire) on connector 2 of the junction block under drivers side dashboard. If no power there then it could be something with the connector or junction block. If power there, then test: - At the orange/white wire on the connector for the passenger door module - may be pin 1. If no power here, then there's a break or ground fault somewhere between the junction block and the door module. Have you checked the wires going through into the door? Very common for drivers door wires to break as that door is used most, but similar could happen in passenger door wiring. If you can get WJ PDF Service Manual (I've heard you can search online... :) ) check the following pages for wiring data: 8W-12-2 for Junction box / C2 and C4 locations 8W-60-2 for Power Window door modules wiring diagram You can also dig through the connector diagrams for clearer pinouts. I bet wires broke in the door wiring pass through on passenger side. Since drivers side works, probably something like that. Now if all the wiring tests ok and you're getting 12v at the passenger door module and it's still not working, it's possible there's a Canbus error. I had this happen once where a WJ lost all window controls, but things seemed ok. Turns out it had a dying alternator that had caused a voltage issue and triggered a canbus fault. I pulled the battery for 30sec, reconnected it, and everything came back. I eventually diagnosed a failing alternator and it never had an issue again. There could also be a wiring fault with the PCI/Canbus wiring to that module, that is also on page 8W-60-2, but testing that may require a scope if they ohm test ok. Finally if everything seems to test ok, it's also possible the module itself has died. Junkyard/ebay parts if you think the electrics are working. Good luck!
22:30 it always draws power from the battery unless it is disconnected,I think the radio and/or the burglar alarm. So if you leave it sit for months a dead battery is almost guaranteed. FSM claims that moving a fuse or relay out of its cubicle and into a dummy cubicle next to it will reduce the "off ignition" power draw but might cause all memory clock and radio station button settings to be lost. I think the fuse or relay lives in #15 space inside the extra fuse box that is beside the battery.
when under the car and maybe a day or two after spraying/flushing the bottom with a water wand or lawn sprinker while changing the oil might not hurt anything to spray some of your old oil from the last oil change or some Fluid Film on some of those seams and welds as long as the EPA isn't looking over your shoulder. Also when the car is washed try to use the hose to force the dirt out from the place you showed where it likes to rust around the inside of the rear wheel house.
I bought one 2 years ago for 5 grand, not a scratch inside or out, zero rust, 150 thousand miles, 4.0, select track, I since put a Spartan locker in the rear, 3 in lift, 2 in wheel spacers, little bigger tires, all new suspension, everything, recovery hooks, roof rack, I spray it with Surface shield underneath, will keep it rust free for a long time to come
Trail rated badge is just skid plates for front radiator flimsy and a hd for rear of the transfercase that blots to the cross member and lower unibody rail
Fantastic cars. I've been deriving them for 18 years. Started with ZG theen se real WJs Just bought a 2003 Overland with 26,000 miles from an old fella who bought it new. Perfect inside and out. Has all books and paperwork as well as both keys. My 2002 Overland was still great but I couldn't let this one get away. Drives like new. Only thing that surprises me is that it has a little lash ( very slight ) in the drive line. Back off and you get a slight click when you get back on the gas.
The trail rated badge came with a package however all those packages features could be selected cafeteria style as well. You could end up with all the good options without getting the package that came with the badge.
White Raised Letters.....Man my 4.7 HO gave up the ghost last July. My 2003 is rotted pretty bad with 300K and this was motor #3......so I miss mine but it won't be back on the road. Yours looks CLEAN and should be a great rig! Jealous!
In front of both tail lamp housings are the "exhausters", which allow flow-through air. The items have rubber flaps to prevent reverse air flow. Mice learn to raise the flaps and climb into the cargo compartment, and thence everywhere, such as behind rear wall plastics, out the seat belt slots, and then they eat all kinds of other things, eventually dying and stinking up the place. ..... SO, cover the exhausters with 1/4" hardware cloth, screwing it to the plastic frame, using #6x1/2" pan head screws. On the WJ with the evap canister behind the left quarter panel, you will need to box-cover that exhauster with 1/4" hardware cloth, and it is required to remove the rear bumper cover to do so. Lastly, the air filter box inlet needs same 1/4" hardware cloth protection, the early WJ have the inlet tube adjacent to the radiator, and the later, HO models have the air inlet next to the windshield fluid bottle, left front corner. The later model required pull-down of the innermost corner of fender well plastic to access the nuts retaining the air box. The earlier WJ can have the snorkel covered by twist-removal, air box removal not required. Stop the mice, without further delay. Once they learn the rubber flap lift trick, they will keep returning, and bringing their mates and families.
Hi i live in the uk ,i own a 2004 overlander 2.7 diesel, it a 5 cylinder merc engine hreat smooth unit ,its a shame you guys dont get that option, does 30 to the gallon ,rust proofed from new Regards Dave
"Trail rated" means it had the front skid plate and/or tow hook? Some seem to be lacking 4 wheel Lo and some have it. No fully 2 wheel drive only position on the transfer lever. (Unless a 6 cylinder) Either 4 wheel Lo part time or 4 wheel Hi full time.
You definitely have something going on at the fuse box to dashboard wiring harness connection. When I took the dash out on my 2000 WJ to replace the heater core which by the way is a huge job my HVAC controls would not turn on after I put it all together! That was a defeating end to that job. I had some wires pull out of that connector. You probably have it all figured out by now. I have 248K on my original 4.7L! Awesome find have fun with it!
I can only imagine that feeling after such a big job! Been there on other stuff so yeah that is the worst! Funny you mention that, one of the first things I checked was the bulkhead connector in the kick panel, they seem to be problematic...
@@VortexGarage yes I was so defeated after that job! I replaced the evaporator and the blend doors with ones made of aluminum at the same time while it was all apart. That added to the job but needed to do since I was there. It was December two weeks before Christmas and it was cold. I drove it a week with no heat gave up didn’t want to spend anymore time on it brought it to a shop and they fixed it less than an hour lol! At that point I was just happy it was a simple fix And everything worked perfectly!! Looking forward to your WJ project. I love mine wished I had found an 04 Overland but ended up with a 00 Limited. I hope to get some more miles out of her. The prices on WK2’s are coming down and may go that route next although I love the WJ and have always driven a solid axle Jeep!
Selling my 99 WJ 160k miles no rust needs some tlc. 4.7l many extras needs tires will need to be towed but engine runs good. $3000 is all im asking clean title. Has a 3" puck lift but I also have iron rock offroad full front and rear 3" brand new springs still in box, brand new Core 4x4 front adjustable track bar, rear 7/8 track bar / stabilizer and core 4x4 rear adjustable control arms not installed brand new. Also needs a muffler. Brand new front axles, brakes, rotors
Take a close look at your door wiring harnesses. The harness failing creates a lot of funny issues. Just fixed my dad's wj which had a number of electrical issues(gauges and all door controls would randomly stop working). Honestly, if door harnesses don't work then the next step in electrical gremlins on a wj, assuming mice didn't eat wiring, would be pcm.
Needs a shop vac and probably the cover over the windshield root/heater air intake cover removed,check to see if it has a cabin air filter under there and suck out as much of the leaves as possible. I suspect a cabin air filter reduces the chances of corroding and leaking heater core. Curious as to where to get a supply of plastic rivets and push pins such as hold that windshield root or cowl cover on and such things as the silly plastic bumper and the inner plastic fender liners. should have done shop vac job on the leaves at the windshield cowl before the pressure wash. I hope the leaves didn't go further down into the evaporator/heat box. Maybe the leaves were making the rodents feel more at home !
There is a story about the developers of the original ENIAC and then UNIVAC I computers. They had,I guess,miles of wiring in their panels of vacuum tubes. The developers supposedly tested different types of insulation for wiring for lack of rodents wanting to chew or eat the wiring. I heard a rumor that German car companies,due to radical environmentalist promulgated laws,have to use inferior biodegradable plastics that don't hold up and also may be more tasty to the rodents. I guess so that the cars can be (have to be at an early age? !!) recycled easily. Would be interesting to see you do a heater hose replacement on this car. Very tight back there with the main engine control computer in that corner.
technically these jeeps are extremely capable off road. My experience with my 04 4.0 , I went with 4 inches of lift and I had to put heavy duty sway bars and long arms to make her ride and handle better.
The long arms are the way to go it seems for anything 4" or above. The stock arm mounting points are too short for longer travel without getting weird arcs. I hear lifted long arm Jeeps can ride as good or even better than stock.
This is the first WJ I've had that uses the limited-spec green backlit gauges that Chrysler liked to use in the 2000's. Always thought they were cool looking and they really do glow nicely. All others I've owned or known folks who had used the standard gauge package in the Laredo that looks more standard and has only the numbers backlit at night.
I've jeep grand Cherokee ltd crd ltd wj. Typical American junk when it comes to electrics had numerous problems most crap quality wiring, poor rooting of fortunately I'm electronics engineer by trade so can find my way around most of it, has decent 2.7t.d Merc engine automatic gearbox hi/low brilliant off rd with electronics on trans system, got 150,kmils on clock, had problem with the stupid place to put trans cooler part of engine radiator, never seen that in my life,normally separate items! Got top quality replacement rad from local motor factors, far cheeper than stealer! In process of replacing original brake calipers and discs +pads may replace master cylinder and servo if l can get @sensible cost!
I wish we had gotten the CRD here in the USA. We only got the CRD in the KJ Liberty. I think it did get sold in the follow on to the WJ, the WK Grand Cherokee but I may be incorrect there. The transmission coolers are very common to be in radiators when tow packages aren't included. Seeing it more and more across makes too. But WJs are really odd as not all of them had the transmission cooler in the radiator. Oddly enough it was on a 2004 4.0l inline-6 without any tow package that had the upgraded transmission cooling - in that case the condenser unit in front of the radiator is split into two main cores - top is the Air Conditioner condenser, bottom portion is transmission cooler. Radiator in that one is only engine coolant.
I have the 2002 4.7ho wj and those belt straps are just part of crash related safety measures to keep dash from flopping around if it comes seperated in a crash,kinda useless i say.i removed mine doing hvac work and never put back!highly unlikely dash is coming off in a crash anyhow since everything is bolted too firewall.and if crash is bad enough too seperate ur dash your dead anyhow never mind a flopping dash!!!what you will work on is blend doors and quirky electrical issues very common in these cars.mine the power seats n locks have a mind of there own.they come on when not wanted,could be bad grounds.my dash went crazy one time it was bad ground under console. Go figure!!!otherwise nice all around poor mans porshe and 4x4.thats what i call mine.the trail rated badge probably means the heavy duty off-road 44 hd axles front n back or set up with stronger springs n sway bar and offroad shocks for trail riding compared too city cushy setup driving.just check kellys blue book info should tell you differance in models!snookie.oh get that rust bubble off hood front or itll rust away hood in no time.by the way i say super trail rig this one.snooky😝👍🤪😜👍💥
I was thinking similar on that dashboard seat belt - maybe in a crash test part of it flew off and impaled a crash test dummy! Grounds were an item I ended up checking - found some dirty ones under the console but turned out the fix was something else. Video for that going up next week. On the trail rated badge, it's still confusing as this still has D30 in the front, and doesn't seem like it has any of the up-country stuff on it. Maybe just having the QuadraDrive axles was enough to get it on this trim, where the QuadraTrac only Laredo's would need up-country to score the badge. Special Edition 4.0l with selec-trac had it too... Poor mans 4x4 Porsche - I like that!
Words cannot describe my love for the WJ. Might have to buy another one after watching this, always a fun vehicle to work on. Great video btw, I look forward to seeing yours restored to full working order.
I have 2 WJs (4.0 and 4.7), a targa top AW11 GZE, a Benz CLS550, and a Celica GT4. I would say the WJ is the one I’d let go of last. Best cars!
I have an 04 4.0 with Quadra-Drive for sale in Massachusetts if anyone is interested.. Great condition 278k miles..
My dad used to have a WJ Grand Cherokee when I was a kid, and this is my story about it:
It was July 2010, and we were on our way in our Vauxhall Zafira to pick up my dad’s new car to replace his old Vauxhall Frontera, a 2002 (52-reg) Jeep Grand Cherokee Limited with the 4.7-liter Chrysler PowerTech V8 and 5-speed automatic, finished in a dark metallic blue with a black leather interior. While we were driving the last few hundred yards to the seller’s house to collect DU52XKW, I caught first sight of it in the windscreen, and after we pulled up at the seller’s house, we got out of our car and went over to inspect it.
The main reason why me and my family consider it to be one of the most comfortable cars we’ve ever owned, and why I consider it to me one of my favourite cars my family has ever had, was the seats, as they were some of the most comfortable of any car I had ever, ever sat in - when 10-year-old me sat down on them for the first time, I was in heaven as they were just oh-so-comfy - it wasn’t so much a car as a giant sofa with wheels and an engine, the Americans really knew how to make proper car seats back then!
Since then, the only car I’ve sat in that has even come close to how comfortable the seats in the Jeep were was an Infiniti M saloon (sedan in the US) I sat in while me and my family were at the Driffield Motor Show in 2013.
When we got home, I thought it was a much better car than his old Frontera, as it was more practical being a 5-door, and much more comfortable too.
The ultimate test for our Jeep came in August 2010, when we went on a caravan holiday to Great Yarmouth in it. During the extremely long and tedious 150+ mile drive, it proved to be well up to the challenge of hauling our Swift Conqueror caravan to the campsite we were going to be staying at, thanks to the incredible pulling power of that V8 - even if it did make the car a TREMENDOUS gas hog and went through gas like there was no tomorrow, but it did make a very nice noise which we called the “V8 roar”.
It also proved to be a very comfortable car to travel in as it ate up the miles, mainly because of how unbelievably comfortable and plush the seats were. On the way there, I watched one of my Top Gear DVDs on the aftermarket DVD headrests that we’d had installed in it, while my sister watched one of her Hello Kitty DVDs.
One day during our holiday, after we went to the nearby Tesco, while my mum was loading up the boot (trunk in the US) with shopping, my dad decided to “V8-roar” her by revving the engine as she packed the shopping away - she must have got a bit of a surprise when he did that!
Unfortunately, our holiday was cut short due to heavy rain the following day, and even though we only had the Jeep for 2 months, I still consider it to be one of my favourite cars out of all the cars my family has ever owned.
Looking forward to this new series ! Have a 2002 WJ Overland with 87m original miles and HO motor. Followed your earlier WJ videos, and love the way you video and detail your work. Good luck on this new series!
I almost bought an Overland before I got my old white one years ago but found some signs of crash damage on it. Still love that package and the HO motor! Yours sounds great!
The wife and I got our 2001 WJ Euro export model (3.1tdi variant) back in March 2013. She cost us 2.5k with 97k miles and she's now on 127k, making it an average 3k miles per year we've done while owning her. Sure, she's had a lot of stuff repaired and replaced over the years, which is why I love watching anything WJ related for picking up hints and tips on maintenance, problem solving, etc to keep this grandma truck on the road. Keep up the good work on vehicle repairs, as I'm finding your material most excellent and informative.
My 2004 is my favorite vehicle of the last 2 decades. My son gave me his 2017 Chevy Silverado Z71 for my birthday so it will become my adventure/fishing ride in the furure. Yea, I raised a great kid.
Looking forward to the electrical follow up videos. My 04 Overland passenger side windows and locks no longer work. The Driver side works fine. I am good mechanically not electric!! Looking forward to it.
Electrical diag video is nearly done, going up definitely next week! Since I had it handy, I did a bit of checking on the passenger door module...long reply but maybe helpful?
For the Passenger door module, looks like the Orange/White wire at it's connector should be fused battery positive (12v), and the Black is ground.
If you have no power, but ground seems ok, then that orange/white wire goes to connector C2, pin 36 it appears, on the distribution junction block. It then leaves there on Connector C4 (two pin connector with heavier gauge wiring on front of junction box) as same color, orange white.
From there it appears to go to underhood fuse block, Fuse 12 (50amp). From connector C4, it feeds both the driver and passenger modules - so since your driver door is working, that means any wiring past that, as well as the main 50amp fuse should be ok. Thus, I would check for power:
- At Pin 36 (orange/white wire) on connector 2 of the junction block under drivers side dashboard. If no power there then it could be something with the connector or junction block. If power there, then test:
- At the orange/white wire on the connector for the passenger door module - may be pin 1. If no power here, then there's a break or ground fault somewhere between the junction block and the door module.
Have you checked the wires going through into the door? Very common for drivers door wires to break as that door is used most, but similar could happen in passenger door wiring.
If you can get WJ PDF Service Manual (I've heard you can search online... :) ) check the following pages for wiring data:
8W-12-2 for Junction box / C2 and C4 locations
8W-60-2 for Power Window door modules wiring diagram
You can also dig through the connector diagrams for clearer pinouts.
I bet wires broke in the door wiring pass through on passenger side. Since drivers side works, probably something like that.
Now if all the wiring tests ok and you're getting 12v at the passenger door module and it's still not working, it's possible there's a Canbus error. I had this happen once where a WJ lost all window controls, but things seemed ok. Turns out it had a dying alternator that had caused a voltage issue and triggered a canbus fault. I pulled the battery for 30sec, reconnected it, and everything came back. I eventually diagnosed a failing alternator and it never had an issue again. There could also be a wiring fault with the PCI/Canbus wiring to that module, that is also on page 8W-60-2, but testing that may require a scope if they ohm test ok.
Finally if everything seems to test ok, it's also possible the module itself has died. Junkyard/ebay parts if you think the electrics are working.
Good luck!
@@VortexGarage WOW thank you for the help and direction!!!
I put a couple of silicone wrist bands on my loose driver's side mirror. Added a little flair and keeps it steady.
22:30 it always draws power from the battery unless it is disconnected,I think the radio and/or the burglar alarm. So if you leave it sit for months a dead battery is almost guaranteed. FSM claims that moving a fuse or relay out of its cubicle and into a dummy cubicle next to it will reduce the "off ignition" power draw but might cause all memory clock and radio station button settings to be lost. I think the fuse or relay lives in #15 space inside the extra fuse box that is beside the battery.
when under the car and maybe a day or two after spraying/flushing the bottom with a water wand or lawn sprinker while changing the oil might not hurt anything to spray some of your old oil from the last oil change or some Fluid Film on some of those seams and welds as long as the EPA isn't looking over your shoulder. Also when the car is washed try to use the hose to force the dirt out from the place you showed where it likes to rust around the inside of the rear wheel house.
I bought one 2 years ago for 5 grand, not a scratch inside or out, zero rust, 150 thousand miles, 4.0, select track, I since put a Spartan locker in the rear, 3 in lift, 2 in wheel spacers, little bigger tires, all new suspension, everything, recovery hooks, roof rack, I spray it with Surface shield underneath, will keep it rust free for a long time to come
Nice!! And I do like the 4.7l, but have a real liking for the 4.0's esp with the 242 selectrac
@@VortexGarage I own that 2004 WJ and will find another if it fails in a second. Great machine.
I have a 2001 limited. Paid 800 for it 3 years ago got bout 7500 into it. We are almost ready for the Rocky Mountains
Trail rated badge is just skid plates for front radiator flimsy and a hd for rear of the transfercase that blots to the cross member and lower unibody rail
Fantastic cars. I've been deriving them for 18 years. Started with ZG theen se real WJs Just bought a 2003 Overland with 26,000 miles from an old fella who bought it new. Perfect inside and out. Has all books and paperwork as well as both keys. My 2002 Overland was still great but I couldn't let this one get away. Drives like new. Only thing that surprises me is that it has a little lash ( very slight ) in the drive line. Back off and you get a slight click when you get back on the gas.
Look at the cowl intake. Can you imagine whats in the heater core and A/C evap.
The trail rated badge came with a package however all those packages features could be selected cafeteria style as well. You could end up with all the good options without getting the package that came with the badge.
The Trail Rated badge was an 04 only thing.
Amazon has no-name heated mirrors for about $60-70 for a pair.
White Raised Letters.....Man my 4.7 HO gave up the ghost last July. My 2003 is rotted pretty bad with 300K and this was motor #3......so I miss mine but it won't be back on the road. Yours looks CLEAN and should be a great rig! Jealous!
So many WJ's are getting rusty, I'm so glad to still see them solid. They're out there, hiding in the back of ppl's drives many times!
In front of both tail lamp housings are the "exhausters", which allow flow-through air. The items have rubber flaps to prevent reverse air flow. Mice learn to raise the flaps and climb into the cargo compartment, and thence everywhere, such as behind rear wall plastics, out the seat belt slots, and then they eat all kinds of other things, eventually dying and stinking up the place. ..... SO, cover the exhausters with 1/4" hardware cloth, screwing it to the plastic frame, using #6x1/2" pan head screws. On the WJ with the evap canister behind the left quarter panel, you will need to box-cover that exhauster with 1/4" hardware cloth, and it is required to remove the rear bumper cover to do so. Lastly, the air filter box inlet needs same 1/4" hardware cloth protection, the early WJ have the inlet tube adjacent to the radiator, and the later, HO models have the air inlet next to the windshield fluid bottle, left front corner. The later model required pull-down of the innermost corner of fender well plastic to access the nuts retaining the air box. The earlier WJ can have the snorkel covered by twist-removal, air box removal not required. Stop the mice, without further delay. Once they learn the rubber flap lift trick, they will keep returning, and bringing their mates and families.
Really useful video for me as I’ve just bought a 2004 WJ 2.7 CRD in a similar condition.
Hi i live in the uk ,i own a 2004 overlander 2.7 diesel, it a 5 cylinder merc engine hreat smooth unit ,its a shame you guys dont get that option, does 30 to the gallon ,rust proofed from new
Regards
Dave
"Trail rated" means it had the front skid plate and/or tow hook?
Some seem to be lacking 4 wheel Lo and some have it. No fully 2 wheel drive only position on the transfer lever. (Unless a 6 cylinder) Either 4 wheel Lo part time or 4 wheel Hi full time.
The interior looks to be in good condition 👌
Just bought a one owner 02 overland in mint condition.Dropped seats ofc....But probably worth the 150 bucks :)
My 2001 Limited does not have the Trail Rated badge
You definitely have something going on at the fuse box to dashboard wiring harness connection. When I took the dash out on my 2000 WJ to replace the heater core which by the way is a huge job my HVAC controls would not turn on after I put it all together! That was a defeating end to that job. I had some wires pull out of that connector. You probably have it all figured out by now. I have 248K on my original 4.7L! Awesome find have fun with it!
I can only imagine that feeling after such a big job! Been there on other stuff so yeah that is the worst! Funny you mention that, one of the first things I checked was the bulkhead connector in the kick panel, they seem to be problematic...
@@VortexGarage yes I was so defeated after that job! I replaced the evaporator and the blend doors with ones made of aluminum at the same time while it was all apart. That added to the job but needed to do since I was there. It was December two weeks before Christmas and it was cold. I drove it a week with no heat gave up didn’t want to spend anymore time on it brought it to a shop and they fixed it less than an hour lol! At that point I was just happy it was a simple fix
And everything worked perfectly!!
Looking forward to your WJ project. I love mine wished I had found an 04 Overland but ended up with a 00 Limited. I hope to get some more miles out of her. The prices on WK2’s are coming down and may go that route next although I love the WJ and have always driven a solid axle Jeep!
I thought all of them had the green color at night in the dashboard instrument gauges.
Selling my 99 WJ 160k miles no rust needs some tlc. 4.7l many extras needs tires will need to be towed but engine runs good. $3000 is all im asking clean title. Has a 3" puck lift but I also have iron rock offroad full front and rear 3" brand new springs still in box, brand new Core 4x4 front adjustable track bar, rear 7/8 track bar / stabilizer and core 4x4 rear adjustable control arms not installed brand new. Also needs a muffler. Brand new front axles, brakes, rotors
Still have it? Where are you located..
@Dick Johnson I'm in Oregonian yes I still have it. Haven't listed it yet.
Take a close look at your door wiring harnesses. The harness failing creates a lot of funny issues. Just fixed my dad's wj which had a number of electrical issues(gauges and all door controls would randomly stop working). Honestly, if door harnesses don't work then the next step in electrical gremlins on a wj, assuming mice didn't eat wiring, would be pcm.
It's amazing what that door harness can mess up!
Needs a shop vac and probably the cover over the windshield root/heater air intake cover removed,check to see if it has a cabin air filter under there and suck out as much of the leaves as possible. I suspect a cabin air filter reduces the chances of corroding and leaking heater core.
Curious as to where to get a supply of plastic rivets and push pins such as hold that windshield root or cowl cover on and such things as the silly plastic bumper and the inner plastic fender liners.
should have done shop vac job on the leaves at the windshield cowl before the pressure wash. I hope the leaves didn't go further down into the evaporator/heat box. Maybe the leaves were making the rodents feel more at home !
jeep WJ owners are notorious for not judging the distance when backing up. IE dented tailgate
Ain't that the truth!! I was a truck driver most of my life and I still had to replace my rear bumper twice.
There is a story about the developers of the original ENIAC and then UNIVAC I computers. They had,I guess,miles of wiring in their panels of vacuum tubes. The developers supposedly tested different types of insulation for wiring for lack of rodents wanting to chew or eat the wiring.
I heard a rumor that German car companies,due to radical environmentalist promulgated laws,have to use inferior biodegradable plastics that don't hold up and also may be more tasty to the rodents. I guess so that the cars can be (have to be at an early age? !!) recycled easily.
Would be interesting to see you do a heater hose replacement on this car. Very tight back there with the main engine control computer in that corner.
Trail rated I think has a level kit lower Skid plates and the frame is coated ...that's on any jeep
I don't thing any WJ was "trail rated". I believe they just put that on. I find your video's useful so thank you.
technically these jeeps are extremely capable off road. My experience with my 04 4.0 , I went with 4 inches of lift and I had to put heavy duty sway bars and long arms to make her ride and handle better.
The long arms are the way to go it seems for anything 4" or above. The stock arm mounting points are too short for longer travel without getting weird arcs. I hear lifted long arm Jeeps can ride as good or even better than stock.
@18:16 Why is yours so bright?
On mine, only the numbers are very, very dark. I think yours is really beautiful!
This is the first WJ I've had that uses the limited-spec green backlit gauges that Chrysler liked to use in the 2000's. Always thought they were cool looking and they really do glow nicely. All others I've owned or known folks who had used the standard gauge package in the Laredo that looks more standard and has only the numbers backlit at night.
I miss my WJ 😪
Good save.
Unfortunatlly... The dent on the liftgate will not PDR to industry standards. It's too deep on a sharp radius.
I love my 04 limited
How much jeep grand Cherokee wj
80's ??? This car is from 1999!
white letters
I've jeep grand Cherokee ltd crd ltd wj. Typical American junk when it comes to electrics had numerous problems most crap quality wiring, poor rooting of fortunately I'm electronics engineer by trade so can find my way around most of it, has decent 2.7t.d Merc engine automatic gearbox hi/low brilliant off rd with electronics on trans system, got 150,kmils on clock, had problem with the stupid place to put trans cooler part of engine radiator, never seen that in my life,normally separate items! Got top quality replacement rad from local motor factors, far cheeper than stealer! In process of replacing original brake calipers and discs +pads may replace master cylinder and servo if l can get @sensible cost!
I wish we had gotten the CRD here in the USA. We only got the CRD in the KJ Liberty. I think it did get sold in the follow on to the WJ, the WK Grand Cherokee but I may be incorrect there.
The transmission coolers are very common to be in radiators when tow packages aren't included. Seeing it more and more across makes too. But WJs are really odd as not all of them had the transmission cooler in the radiator.
Oddly enough it was on a 2004 4.0l inline-6 without any tow package that had the upgraded transmission cooling - in that case the condenser unit in front of the radiator is split into two main cores - top is the Air Conditioner condenser, bottom portion is transmission cooler. Radiator in that one is only engine coolant.
I have the 2002 4.7ho wj and those belt straps are just part of crash related safety measures to keep dash from flopping around if it comes seperated in a crash,kinda useless i say.i removed mine doing hvac work and never put back!highly unlikely dash is coming off in a crash anyhow since everything is bolted too firewall.and if crash is bad enough too seperate ur dash your dead anyhow never mind a flopping dash!!!what you will work on is blend doors and quirky electrical issues very common in these cars.mine the power seats n locks have a mind of there own.they come on when not wanted,could be bad grounds.my dash went crazy one time it was bad ground under console. Go figure!!!otherwise nice all around poor mans porshe and 4x4.thats what i call mine.the trail rated badge probably means the heavy duty off-road 44 hd axles front n back or set up with stronger springs n sway bar and offroad shocks for trail riding compared too city cushy setup driving.just check kellys blue book info should tell you differance in models!snookie.oh get that rust bubble off hood front or itll rust away hood in no time.by the way i say super trail rig this one.snooky😝👍🤪😜👍💥
I was thinking similar on that dashboard seat belt - maybe in a crash test part of it flew off and impaled a crash test dummy!
Grounds were an item I ended up checking - found some dirty ones under the console but turned out the fix was something else. Video for that going up next week.
On the trail rated badge, it's still confusing as this still has D30 in the front, and doesn't seem like it has any of the up-country stuff on it. Maybe just having the QuadraDrive axles was enough to get it on this trim, where the QuadraTrac only Laredo's would need up-country to score the badge. Special Edition 4.0l with selec-trac had it too...
Poor mans 4x4 Porsche - I like that!