I have been trying to understand the clicker process and until now wasn’t able to find an instruction that made sense to me. This is exactly what I was looking for.
Check out how much Jet has improved since the filming of this episode. He's motivated, smart, and has high perseverance, making him a blast to train with! fb.watch/47JU8KdIL-/
Been teaching my pup without a clicker, she is now 7 months and knows 8 commands (sit, lay, stay, come, leave it, heel, shake, spin). She’s learned those without a clicker but I just got one to take her one step further. Went on a search to make sure I’ve been using it correctly. I more or less have, but did learn more from you in this vid, so thank you! I hope she won’t be too confused now with the clicker and a bit of a different technique, like correcting immediately and using heel and center etc. as come. Thanks for the great presentation! Little bit off topic, what do you think about those pre-recorded communication buttons they step on and supposedly communicate through?
Thank you so much for these kinds of videos ☺️ Really love that you've demonstrated with lots of dogs who weren't familiar or know the commands yet. It really helps me (and probably other people) to understand it better and visualize it more on how I'll apply your techniques to my puppy who will be coming home on March 28 hehe I am kind of nervous though because I might suddenly forget everything that you've taught once she arrives ☹️ hahaha I'm also hella overwhelmed and confused on the order and what commands I should prioritize in teaching her first before teaching her other/fun tricks. I've watched and read others say "sit, down" and stand" should be t first and another will say "leave it, sit, down, stay, come." Would really appreciate it if you could share what commands that you believe are the absolute MOST important and in what order they should be taught before teaching her to do other behaviours that are "not" as essential ☺️ Again, thank you for all of the informative and detailed videos.
Thanks! I don't have a set order of commands. What's more important is teaching your dog all the communication channels. Remember, dog training is about effectively communicating with our dogs in a timely matter when they are right and wrong and giving them a clear path to success. When I do a training session, I work on most of the commands the dog will be learning, not just one or two. If you haven't done so already, I would suggest ordering a copy of my manual. It'll help you plan your training out, so you can maximize your training and results. Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer Okay, thank you so much for this. Will definitely purchase your manual since you've been so generous in sharing all of your dog training knowledge here on YT. Again, your tutorials have been so helpful and easy to understand. ☺️
This is a great explanation. I've found my cat prefers to eat when we use a clicker rather than going to his food directly so I take that as evidence that he enjoys training (I'm running out of things to teach though) I particularly like how you show how to hold and use the lead in such a helpful way. Plus I like how you mix it up, I feel this is important with a bright dog (or child) as nothing worse than sitting in class going over and over. Enough to make anyone's exam results (grades) tumble
Great questions! I begin by rewarding every movement when a dog is first learning a behavior, like following a lure into a sit, down, come, or heel. Once the dog clearly understands the lure for each position or exercise, I start spacing out the rewards. For instance, if the dog knows the physical lure and leash cues but hasn’t learned the verbal command, I can begin asking for multiple behaviors before delivering a reward. This approach leverages the physical cues the dog already understands, allowing us to build up sequences without immediate rewards. Randomizing the timing and frequency of rewards actually enhances the dog’s motivation for training, as it keeps the experience engaging and unpredictable.
I find a clicker adds yet another step that you often don’t have when truly needed. I do like the idea of the way to explain the stay efforts this is one I will try
What type of treats do you feed the puppy? Can you share the product name and brand? The dog will be treat dependent or at one point, no more treats are need it?
Just found this video, thank you. I'm sure it will help me with my pup.. Where the pup kept getting off the platform when you wanted him to stay, you would take him back to the platform and then treat him. Surely that would then teach him if he jumps off (when you want him to stay), he's going to get a treat when you put him back on.. So gain for him, but not for you, as he isn't staying put! Do you have a video where he finally gets it and stays in position whilst you walk away and then awaits a 'come' command or you return to him and treat him for doing as you wanted him to do? Thanks
Hi Nate love your videos! You said that the click always predicts the reward: my trainer taught me to use the clicker also as a mean to create expectation to the reward (for example to make behaviours faster), clicking without following with a reward from time to time, implying that the click itself becames the reward. I'm becaming more and more skeptical about this method because it seems like it creates confusion in the dog and the value of the clicker itself as a target seems to became lower and lower over time. Any toughts on this? Did you ever use the clicker this way? Thnaks in advance
Nice video! Am I wrong feeling like dogs learn down more easily using the luring technique rather than leash pressure? I feel like in most videos the sit is super clear and fluid with leash pressure but the downs are always more difficult. ^^ sorry I’m a bit off topic haha
Great question; From my experience, the dogs learn the down way faster with the leash pressure. You may be able to get them into the down more quickly with luring, but you'll teach the dog the verbal command much faster when using the leash pressure. Meaning, they will respond to the verbal command alone quicker when training with the leash cue. :)
Nate, do you recommend using the dog name as the engagement marker or just go when the dog looks at you. I am getting an Australian Shephard tomorrow. Also, been watching all your videos for over a month.
You can say the dogs name if needed to get the dog to look at you. Once your dog looks at you, then you can use your marker to mark that behavior and follow it up with the reward. :)
Hey Nate I really like the fact that you're using the voice commands as well as explaining to someone like me who has a hard time understanding and has to watch this video four and five times so actually let it finally sank in that everytime I was using the clicker that I just recently got within the last week I was doing it incorrectly I guess you can say and then when I would take the dog for a walk he's afraid of going down the steps because we're on the second floor and he fell twice down the steps any tips thanks
I would teach the dog leash pressure and luring, then I would use both of those to help the dog go up and down the stairs successfully. Check out this video and jump to 8 min in. th-cam.com/video/n4DKorjXyaQ/w-d-xo.html
@@NateSchoemer Thank you so much for the helpful tips and information if I have anymore questions I will be definitely asking and I will subscribe to your channel
Can you teach them this many commands at once ? Or work on one command at a time? Also How long to spend daily training puppy with said command ? Thank you!
Thank you 😊 , want to give this a try with my beautiful puppy ❤️ 😅 although, have you any tips etc for when she's out for a walk because she's a rescue and keeps lunging and bark's at other dogs we have tryed commands and that saying no , stop , leave it , but she's not listening 😢
Is it okay to use both the Clicker and "Free" (not at the same time, but during different training sessions) for the termination marker, or will it just confuse the puppy? Was thinking of occasionally doing "free", but early on use a lot of clicker training for better consistency, but don't want to be solely reliant on the Clicker.
Got a new puppy. 10-12 weeks old estimate. Rescue. Possible BorderCollie/Terrier Mix. She stops and scratches at her collar. Scratches only when her collar is on. Should I leave it on all the time, and let her get used to it, or should I just keep it on her when training only? It's a standard collar with buckles. Should I try and find a new one buckle collar?? 🤷♀ I tried a harness, and she scratches at that as well...
Thanks for this Nate, I came across your video as I'm waitimg on a rescue dog coming that I have adopted, I'm just a bit worried as he is 1 year old and is a street dog, do you think he can be trained to a home after living on the streets I'm worried he will try to bolt, I'm ready to give him all the love and show him people can be nice, any help please would be very much appreciated, I'm expecting him over the next couple of week, I look forward to your reply. Chris
Thanks! You won't know for sure until you get the dog. I would first make sure he's comfortable in his new environment. Once he seems happy and adjusted, then I would start basic obedience training, following the training process in my basic obedience series or chapter 7 in my manual. I like to use mealtime as training time, meaning I use the dog's meal for the training. Two sessions a day will be more than enough. In addition, try to get as much play in as possible. Playing with our dogs is one of the best ways to strengthen a bond. I hope this helps, and best of luck! Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer thank you Nate, will have a look through your other videos and the meal time sounds good, I know it will take time and patience for him to settle in, thank you again was well impressed with your training and reward techniques, you have a subscriber in me.
Dear Nate, many thanks for your videos. I am still unable to connect clicker training with both markers C and T. If click=T, what in clicker training is than C marker? You say verbal praise. So when doing like long stay, you give command, motivate, mark - no clicker since click= T, so what instaed - praise, praise,…., click and reward. Many thanks. A.
Try to simplify it. Click = release and reward If you want, use "yes" as the continuation marker. So yes = reward Verbal praise lets the dog know they are doing well and may receive a reward, but it's not guaranteed like the markers. Hope this helps. Cheers!
The clicker, or any marker you use, such as the word 'yes' or 'good,' should signal to your dog that he's about to get something he likes, like a treat or a toy. You could use affection as a reward, but it might not work as well because we often pet our dogs without any specific reason. I hope this helps clear it up. :)
I just got my clickers in the mail. Our puppy is 5 months old. I've already taught her sit, shake, pattycake, sit pretty, and come. She will not stay. She also jumps up on the table a lot. She steals shoes, food, etc. We are all covered in bruises and bite marks. She's not aggressive but she's sassy. If I point at her, she playfully tries to bite my fingers. I can't get her to lay down either. I've watched the video several times and I still don't fully understand. For instance, the jumping on the table. I tell her to get down, she does, then I reward her and she does it again. What do I do in that situation? I really need help with jumping, stealing, lay down, and the worst of all, separation anxiety. She can't handle any time I leave. My husband says she screams the whole time I'm gone, no matter how long I'm gone.
Separation anxiety • a serious problem and should be accompanied by a trainer. There's a lot you can do wrong and make the problem worse. Table • If you send her off the table, don't give her a treat. She learns when she's hungry she just has to jump on the table. The human food dispenser then complain around, but I get food. send her from the table to her bed. A boring place. She gets up, send back to bed. Eventually she will learn. She learns from uneducated behavior that it goes to the boring spot - the bed. She bites • Scream 'ouch' and walk away, ignore her, send her off the couch, etc. She learns that sue hurts you and you walk away. OR say a clear NO and give her a toy. Shoes & Food • Keep them out of reach. Puppies love shoes and dogs will always go for food whenever there is a chance. Remember your dog is in the Beginn of puberty. Stay calm and disciplined. Also remember 5 months old is the Beginn of puberty.
If I'm still on continual reinforcement, then I use stella and chewy's freeze-dried coated kibble. Once the dog is no longer on continual reinforcement, then I switch to freeze-dried dog food for training treats and the dogs meal becomes pre-made frozen raw dog food. Check out this video on rewards: th-cam.com/video/3LYCO9ITmqk/w-d-xo.html You can also find most of the products that I use for my dogs here: www.nateschoemer.com/store Consider becoming a member of my TH-cam Channel. For only $1.99 a month, you'll receive priority responses to comments, access to live Q&As for members only, custom emojis, badges, and you'll help me continue making great dog training content. Sign up here: th-cam.com/users/nateschoemerjoin Let me know if you have any other questions. Thanks, Nate
Hi Nate, I'm a disabled veteran and will likely be in a sitting position while training (I have a Goldendoodle puppy coming in 5 days). A small percentage of the time, I'll be standing...will it confuse the dog when I give the commands while standing? Thanks
Hi, just wondering if you have made a movie on how to teach ur dog to eliminate on command? It’s one of the requirements for my baby to be a service dog here in Australia. She is only a puppy atm and potty training is her nemeses . So was also interested in knowing what I’m in for. She is a miniature dashound and only 15 weeks old. We have just started on the basics in ur videos. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I haven't made an episode specifically on that, but you can follow the process that I teach in my potty training video and just add the command for your dog to go potty. Should be easy enough. :) th-cam.com/video/EKqy0j7tYi0/w-d-xo.html
I'm currently in Eugene, Oregon, but I'm in the process of moving, either to Indiana or New York. We haven't decided yet. I'll be sure to update my website when we move. I offer in-person and virtual training sessions. You can see how to sign up at the bottom of the home page of my website: NateSchoemer.com. Cheers!
Hi Nate! I saw that in one of your videos you said that we should use the leash pressure before the verbal command if they know the command. Here you are using the verbal command before the leash pressure. Should we do like this when he doesn’t know the command?
Yes. Whatever comes first in a series is what you’re teaching your dog. Anything that follows is helping the dog learn what comes first. For example. Leash pressure, then command, then mark, then reward. In that situation the dog is learning the leash pressure, since that came first. If command comes first, then leash pressure, then mark, then reward, the dog is learning the command. Dogs learn through patterns. 😁
So what if your puppy does not care for treats if it means they must listen or respond. My young 9 week old will literally not respond to anything after the first 2 treats. I've tried kibble, boiled chicken, "training treats" , small amounts of cheese, other meats, etc... He doesn't like/care for positive reinforcement. Should I stop feeding him certain meals (like dinner) to work with a hungry pup? I've had more than a few dogs but none have ever been so lazy, unmotivated and/or independent.
Here's a section from my dog training manual that I believe will be helpful. Make him work for all his food. Before we start training our dogs, we must know what motivates them. With any dog I start training, I like to begin with food and luring. Now, something I’m often asked by people is, “How do I train my dog when my dog doesn’t have any food motivation?” First, let me start by saying that every dog has food motivation, what varies is how intense the food motivation is. If you have a dog with low food motivation, there are techniques that you can use to increase that food drive. Most dog’s low food motivation is caused by a few things: Either the dog has been overfed, free-fed, given very high value food such as cooked steak, or sometimes just feeding out of a bowl can cause this. As a result, the dog just doesn’t care that much about getting fed as a reward. A common technique that we like to use to correct a lack of food drive is food deprivation. For this you will want to use mealtime as a training time. Bring the dog out and offer food to train, if the dog is not interested, no big deal, put the food away and try again at dinner. Again, if the dog is not interested, put the food away and try again the next day. Continue to do this until your dog is willing to work for the food. Be sure not to give the dog any food between training. The dog has to know that he will only get food that he works for. I’ve used this technique on dozens of dogs and it’s worked every time.
what point to say "yes" and "free" if you dont differentiate same with clicker? i mean if click = yes then you dont need "free" or maybe for "free" use two clicks? also is better to use words "yes" and "no" instead "yes" and "wrong"? Just saw results in FB. Awesome pup and work!
Thanks! We just have to keep in mind what each word means to the dog, based on what it predicts. Continuation Marker: This is a sound that lets the dog know they will be receiving a reward. Sound = Reward Terminal Marker: This is a sound that lets your dog know they will be receiving a reward, but it also guarantees a release. Sound = reward & release. When I use a clicker, I treat it as a terminal marker. Firstly, there are the two positive types of markers: The first one is the continuation marker (I like to use the word “yes”). This is a word or sound that lets the dog know that they are correct and will be delivered a reward. It’s called a continuation marker because unlike the terminal marker, it doesn’t release the dog. Meaning, if your dog is in a command stay, you can use this marker without releasing the dog from the stay. However, if your dog is not in a command stay, then this marker just means they’ll be rewarded. Therefore, this often confuses people because of the terminology “continuation”. This is why it’s easier to understand by what it predicts: A continuation marker predicts a reward. That’s it. It doesn’t change the circumstances, so if the dog is in a stay, they remain in the stay, and if the dog is not in a stay, then they remain free from the stay. In contrast, we have the terminal markers (I like to use the word “free”). These release dogs from commanded positions as well as guaranteeing a reward. Ex.: If a dog was in a sitting position and you use your terminal marker, they are released from that position and will be given a reward (indicating the sit behavior is finished). I hope this helps clear it up a little. Thanks for supporting the channel. :)
Hi Nate! Just had a really good training session with my almost 14WO rottie pup. We hand feed him his kibble through training and his walk every day but for nutritional benefits we decided to add goats milk, an egg, and a sardine to a bowl for him to eat. I have never seen him resource guard in such an extreme manner?? We stroked his head and when we did he growled. Hand went near the bowl and he barked and even gave a warning nip. His body language changed completely he was in a lower stance with his tail tucked in. Even when he had finished he was continuously licking the bowl so we tried taking the bowl and another growl and bark before trying to nip. Please help, and thank you
Yes, because it doesn't have as many elements that can be affected by human error. It's also why clickers are popular and successful. One, the click always sounds the same. Our voices can change the way a word sounds by the way we say it. Number two, it's much easier to separate two physicals than separate a physical and a verbal. So because of this, people tend to be better at the timing when using a clicker. There is a slight learning curve, but once you get it down, it becomes easy. :)
Nate...using your foot on the leash to force a down?? All that teaches a dog is “opposition reflex” to the Down command. Why?...because you cant guide the leash pressure like you can with your hand. Tom Rose from what he writes in his book would say you are “overloading the dog” with this pressure technique. Feet on leashes are used to hold a dogs position to keep them from breaking command when building on bridging techniques. Tell me why I’m wrong?
It's a leash cue meant to guide the dog. When done and taught correctly, it's a clear and highly effective way to teach and reinforce commands. In addition, from my experience, the dogs learn commands way faster with the leash pressure. Meaning, they will respond to the verbal command alone quicker when training with the leash cue. :) It also teaches the dog to go with the leash and not resist it. You can learn how to effectively and clearly teach your dog(s) leash pressure. th-cam.com/video/9L8tK7mSD10/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/hCb1Y86eYBQ/w-d-xo.html You can also see how I use the leash pressure to easily teach the stay command: th-cam.com/video/s5iD8eN89bo/w-d-xo.html Cheers!
Hey Nate! Nice jacket, is it specifically for training or just something you own that works? Where did you get it? Keep up the content, loving it to prepare for our GSD puppy in April
Hey Nate, this is a bit off topic but how can I help my dog to chew his kibble I’ve got him. Before I handfed him a diy barf diet but I ended up having to switch to a kibble so I’ve got a good one for his training period. It’s just that he gulps it and then ends up choking sometimes. Any help? Thanks
It's normal for dogs to swallow their food whole. Dog's teeth are not meant to chew. Check out this video to see what I mean: th-cam.com/video/v0lFwdNm_Go/w-d-xo.html
The easiest and fastest way to teach quiet is to treat it as a conditioned correction. Meaning, say quiet and then correct your dog with a training collar and leash pop. After only a couple of those, your dog will stop barking or making noises when you say quiet. Once that's the case, then you no longer need to correct after the command. If you would rather not correct, then this is a good option as well: th-cam.com/video/0vtn8NhofOw/w-d-xo.html
May I ask How Many sessions a day and How Long a session is ??? We have a 11 year old golden (Cooper) and picking up a 3 month golden this weekend we did clicker with Coop At School as a Pup and need a Refresher course NOW and you have a Great Vid Here Thank You Nate
What would happen if multiple persons trained the same puppy....is that advised or should it not be practiced...advantages and disadvantages...also how long would you use the clicker for...
Yes, multiple people can train one dog as long as they are all being consistent. It would also help generalize the dog to the training. I stop using a clicker when I no longer have to do continual reinforcement. :)
I am unable to train my German shepherd.He only understands sit , wait and go. I am very agitated as I bought it for protection purpose, bcoz my family is under threat
you forget the click and the dog will not understand the commands. maybe a competition in life is unnecessary ... the dog can communicate with people in an amazing way
Here's a section from my manual that should help: Firstly, there are the two positive types of markers: The first one is the continuation marker (I like to use the word “yes”). This is a word or sound that lets the dog know that they are correct and will be delivered a reward. It’s called a continuation marker because unlike the terminal marker, it doesn’t release the dog. Meaning, if your dog is in a command stay, you can use this marker without releasing the dog from the stay. However, if your dog is not in a command stay, then this marker just means they’ll be rewarded. Therefore, this often confuses people because of the terminology “continuation”. This is why it’s easier to understand by what it predicts: A continuation marker predicts a reward. That’s it. It doesn’t change the circumstances, so if the dog is in a stay, they remain in the stay, and if the dog is not in a stay, then they remain free from the stay. In contrast, we have the terminal markers (I like to use the word “free”). These release dogs from commanded positions as well as guaranteeing a reward. Ex.: If a dog was in a sitting position and you use your terminal marker, they are released from that position and will be given a reward (indicating the sit behavior is finished).
Are a tremendous help! I broke down crying but you saved me my sanity and money by not putting her in puppy school! THANK YOU!
Dang this video must be very good then
I have been trying to understand the clicker process and until now wasn’t able to find an instruction that made sense to me. This is exactly what I was looking for.
Awesome! Thanks and I'm happy the video was helpful! :)
Check out how much Jet has improved since the filming of this episode. He's motivated, smart, and has high perseverance, making him a blast to train with!
fb.watch/47JU8KdIL-/
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Nate, dont ever stop these vids.... learnt soooo much.... thank you!
Awesome! Thank you so much! :)
It’s great seeing you work with different puppies. Love your techniques 👍🏻
Thank you, Susan! Cheers! :)
Been teaching my pup without a clicker, she is now 7 months and knows 8 commands (sit, lay, stay, come, leave it, heel, shake, spin). She’s learned those without a clicker but I just got one to take her one step further. Went on a search to make sure I’ve been using it correctly. I more or less have, but did learn more from you in this vid, so thank you! I hope she won’t be too confused now with the clicker and a bit of a different technique, like correcting immediately and using heel and center etc. as come. Thanks for the great presentation!
Little bit off topic, what do you think about those pre-recorded communication buttons they step on and supposedly communicate through?
Thank you so much for these kinds of videos ☺️ Really love that you've demonstrated with lots of dogs who weren't familiar or know the commands yet. It really helps me (and probably other people) to understand it better and visualize it more on how I'll apply your techniques to my puppy who will be coming home on March 28 hehe
I am kind of nervous though because I might suddenly forget everything that you've taught once she arrives ☹️ hahaha I'm also hella overwhelmed and confused on the order and what commands I should prioritize in teaching her first before teaching her other/fun tricks. I've watched and read others say "sit, down" and stand" should be t first and another will say "leave it, sit, down, stay, come." Would really appreciate it if you could share what commands that you believe are the absolute MOST important and in what order they should be taught before teaching her to do other behaviours that are "not" as essential ☺️ Again, thank you for all of the informative and detailed videos.
Thanks! I don't have a set order of commands. What's more important is teaching your dog all the communication channels. Remember, dog training is about effectively communicating with our dogs in a timely matter when they are right and wrong and giving them a clear path to success. When I do a training session, I work on most of the commands the dog will be learning, not just one or two. If you haven't done so already, I would suggest ordering a copy of my manual. It'll help you plan your training out, so you can maximize your training and results. Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer Okay, thank you so much for this. Will definitely purchase your manual since you've been so generous in sharing all of your dog training knowledge here on YT. Again, your tutorials have been so helpful and easy to understand. ☺️
This is a great explanation. I've found my cat prefers to eat when we use a clicker rather than going to his food directly so I take that as evidence that he enjoys training (I'm running out of things to teach though)
I particularly like how you show how to hold and use the lead in such a helpful way.
Plus I like how you mix it up, I feel this is important with a bright dog (or child) as nothing worse than sitting in class going over and over. Enough to make anyone's exam results (grades) tumble
Thank you and I happy the video was helpful. :)
Very well explained when to click!!
Thank you! :)
I am impressed. The puppy is coming on very well.
I’m training my English bulldog and I’m trying a clicker currently I’m teaching Him it’s a positive thing
This video is so good, TH-cam might as well delete all the other videos on this topic
Lol! Thanks! :)
It's insane how much sense your videos make! Love it!
Lol! Thank you! I was fortunate enough to learn from some of the best. I'm just happy to share that information. :)
The pup is so cute!! Also, helpful bcuz I just got a dog!
So, when do you stop giving your puppy constant treats? Or does it gradually lesson or fade out.
Great questions! I begin by rewarding every movement when a dog is first learning a behavior, like following a lure into a sit, down, come, or heel. Once the dog clearly understands the lure for each position or exercise, I start spacing out the rewards. For instance, if the dog knows the physical lure and leash cues but hasn’t learned the verbal command, I can begin asking for multiple behaviors before delivering a reward. This approach leverages the physical cues the dog already understands, allowing us to build up sequences without immediate rewards.
Randomizing the timing and frequency of rewards actually enhances the dog’s motivation for training, as it keeps the experience engaging and unpredictable.
I find a clicker adds yet another step that you often don’t have when truly needed. I do like the idea of the way to explain the stay efforts this is one I will try
Awesome! Yeah, you can always use your voice as a marker, you don't need to use a clicker. :)
You can't tell me this isn't a talent. Yes it can be learned, but I really believe some people are just naturally good at stuff like this.
Very nice video of how clicker training works.
Thank you! Cheers!
What type of treats do you feed the puppy? Can you share the product name and brand? The dog will be treat dependent or at one point, no more treats are need it?
This was super interesting and helpful :) , Awesome Video with a lovely cute doggy :) stay safe everyone take care and hugs :)
Thank you! You too! :)
Just found this video, thank you. I'm sure it will help me with my pup.. Where the pup kept getting off the platform when you wanted him to stay, you would take him back to the platform and then treat him. Surely that would then teach him if he jumps off (when you want him to stay), he's going to get a treat when you put him back on.. So gain for him, but not for you, as he isn't staying put! Do you have a video where he finally gets it and stays in position whilst you walk away and then awaits a 'come' command or you return to him and treat him for doing as you wanted him to do? Thanks
Hi Nate love your videos! You said that the click always predicts the reward: my trainer taught me to use the clicker also as a mean to create expectation to the reward (for example to make behaviours faster), clicking without following with a reward from time to time, implying that the click itself becames the reward. I'm becaming more and more skeptical about this method because it seems like it creates confusion in the dog and the value of the clicker itself as a target seems to became lower and lower over time. Any toughts on this? Did you ever use the clicker this way? Thnaks in advance
Another great video from Nate.
Thank you, Robert! :)
Nice video! Am I wrong feeling like dogs learn down more easily using the luring technique rather than leash pressure? I feel like in most videos the sit is super clear and fluid with leash pressure but the downs are always more difficult. ^^ sorry I’m a bit off topic haha
Great question; From my experience, the dogs learn the down way faster with the leash pressure. You may be able to get them into the down more quickly with luring, but you'll teach the dog the verbal command much faster when using the leash pressure. Meaning, they will respond to the verbal command alone quicker when training with the leash cue. :)
Nate, do you recommend using the dog name as the engagement marker or just go when the dog looks at you. I am getting an Australian Shephard tomorrow. Also, been watching all your videos for over a month.
You can say the dogs name if needed to get the dog to look at you. Once your dog looks at you, then you can use your marker to mark that behavior and follow it up with the reward. :)
Hey Nate I really like the fact that you're using the voice commands as well as explaining to someone like me who has a hard time understanding and has to watch this video four and five times so actually let it finally sank in that everytime I was using the clicker that I just recently got within the last week I was doing it incorrectly I guess you can say and then when I would take the dog for a walk he's afraid of going down the steps because we're on the second floor and he fell twice down the steps any tips thanks
I would teach the dog leash pressure and luring, then I would use both of those to help the dog go up and down the stairs successfully. Check out this video and jump to 8 min in. th-cam.com/video/n4DKorjXyaQ/w-d-xo.html
@@NateSchoemer thank you there's so many different videos and I'm not sure of the breed of the dog but I will incorporate that into my training
@@NateSchoemer Thank you so much for the helpful tips and information if I have anymore questions I will be definitely asking and I will subscribe to your channel
Can you teach them this many commands at once ? Or work on one command at a time?
Also
How long to spend daily training puppy with said command ?
Thank you!
awesome video sir...thank you!
Thank you, gatekeeper1! :)
How on time is this video ...His clicker comes tomorrow! 😃
Yay! Awesome! :)
@@NateSchoemer I see what you meant about voice commands. He seemed confused! Thanks. You're the man 👍🏽
Yes a man of his word...👊🏽
so effective thank u for this vid
Glad it was helpful! Thank you for watching and commenting. :)
Nice video ! Jet is so cute lol
Thank you! 😊 Yes, He's super adorable!
Love your techniques
This is great. What treats do you use for rewards?
Thanks! If you're curious about what food, treats, or training products that I use, you can see them listed here: www.nateschoemer.com/store
thanks for the great video! What training treats do you use? I have used the commercial training treats and they give my dog diarrhea.
When training I like to use stella and chewy freeze dried coated kibble or freeze dried dog food. :)
Thanks! Great video!
You're the best bro
Thank you, Jade! :)
Hi Nate, Why is the clicker’s click a release? Is there a clicker/leash combi product?
How long should I do the training for? 10 minutes?
Good training ,good boy
Lol! Thanks!
Thank you 😊 , want to give this a try with my beautiful puppy ❤️ 😅 although, have you any tips etc for when she's out for a walk because she's a rescue and keeps lunging and bark's at other dogs we have tryed commands and that saying no , stop , leave it , but she's not listening 😢
Is it okay to use both the Clicker and "Free" (not at the same time, but during different training sessions) for the termination marker, or will it just confuse the puppy? Was thinking of occasionally doing "free", but early on use a lot of clicker training for better consistency, but don't want to be solely reliant on the Clicker.
Yes, you can use both in your training without any issues. Cheers!
Got a new puppy. 10-12 weeks old estimate. Rescue. Possible BorderCollie/Terrier Mix. She stops and scratches at her collar. Scratches only when her collar is on. Should I leave it on all the time, and let her get used to it, or should I just keep it on her when training only? It's a standard collar with buckles. Should I try and find a new one buckle collar?? 🤷♀ I tried a harness, and she scratches at that as well...
Thanks for this Nate, I came across your video as I'm waitimg on a rescue dog coming that I have adopted, I'm just a bit worried as he is 1 year old and is a street dog, do you think he can be trained to a home after living on the streets I'm worried he will try to bolt, I'm ready to give him all the love and show him people can be nice, any help please would be very much appreciated, I'm expecting him over the next couple of week, I look forward to your reply.
Chris
Thanks! You won't know for sure until you get the dog. I would first make sure he's comfortable in his new environment. Once he seems happy and adjusted, then I would start basic obedience training, following the training process in my basic obedience series or chapter 7 in my manual. I like to use mealtime as training time, meaning I use the dog's meal for the training. Two sessions a day will be more than enough. In addition, try to get as much play in as possible. Playing with our dogs is one of the best ways to strengthen a bond. I hope this helps, and best of luck! Cheers!
@@NateSchoemer thank you Nate, will have a look through your other videos and the meal time sounds good, I know it will take time and patience for him to settle in, thank you again was well impressed with your training and reward techniques, you have a subscriber in me.
Dear Nate, many thanks for your videos. I am still unable to connect clicker training with both markers C and T. If click=T, what in clicker training is than C marker? You say verbal praise. So when doing like long stay, you give command, motivate, mark - no clicker since click= T, so what instaed - praise, praise,…., click and reward. Many thanks. A.
Try to simplify it.
Click = release and reward
If you want, use "yes" as the continuation marker. So yes = reward
Verbal praise lets the dog know they are doing well and may receive a reward, but it's not guaranteed like the markers. Hope this helps. Cheers!
Can the verbal "good" be the reward after the click?
The clicker, or any marker you use, such as the word 'yes' or 'good,' should signal to your dog that he's about to get something he likes, like a treat or a toy. You could use affection as a reward, but it might not work as well because we often pet our dogs without any specific reason. I hope this helps clear it up. :)
I just got my clickers in the mail. Our puppy is 5 months old. I've already taught her sit, shake, pattycake, sit pretty, and come. She will not stay. She also jumps up on the table a lot. She steals shoes, food, etc. We are all covered in bruises and bite marks. She's not aggressive but she's sassy. If I point at her, she playfully tries to bite my fingers. I can't get her to lay down either. I've watched the video several times and I still don't fully understand. For instance, the jumping on the table. I tell her to get down, she does, then I reward her and she does it again. What do I do in that situation? I really need help with jumping, stealing, lay down, and the worst of all, separation anxiety. She can't handle any time I leave. My husband says she screams the whole time I'm gone, no matter how long I'm gone.
Separation anxiety • a serious problem and should be accompanied by a trainer.
There's a lot you can do wrong and make the problem worse.
Table • If you send her off the table, don't give her a treat. She learns when she's hungry she just has to jump on the table. The human food dispenser then complain around, but I get food. send her from the table to her bed. A boring place. She gets up, send back to bed. Eventually she will learn. She learns from uneducated behavior that it goes to the boring spot - the bed.
She bites • Scream 'ouch' and walk away, ignore her, send her off the couch, etc. She learns that sue hurts you and you walk away. OR say a clear NO and give her a toy.
Shoes & Food • Keep them out of reach. Puppies love shoes and dogs will always go for food whenever there is a chance.
Remember your dog is in the Beginn of puberty. Stay calm and disciplined.
Also remember 5 months old is the Beginn of puberty.
What do you use for rewards (the training treats)?
If I'm still on continual reinforcement, then I use stella and chewy's freeze-dried coated kibble. Once the dog is no longer on continual reinforcement, then I switch to freeze-dried dog food for training treats and the dogs meal becomes pre-made frozen raw dog food.
Check out this video on rewards: th-cam.com/video/3LYCO9ITmqk/w-d-xo.html
You can also find most of the products that I use for my dogs here: www.nateschoemer.com/store
Consider becoming a member of my TH-cam Channel. For only $1.99 a month, you'll receive priority responses to comments, access to live Q&As for members only, custom emojis, badges, and you'll help me continue making great dog training content.
Sign up here: th-cam.com/users/nateschoemerjoin
Let me know if you have any other questions.
Thanks,
Nate
Does it make noise or?
Hi Nate,
I'm a disabled veteran and will likely be in a sitting position while training (I have a Goldendoodle puppy coming in 5 days). A small percentage of the time, I'll be standing...will it confuse the dog when I give the commands while standing?
Thanks
Great video...very informative...
Thank you so much! :)
Hi, just wondering if you have made a movie on how to teach ur dog to eliminate on command? It’s one of the requirements for my baby to be a service dog here in Australia. She is only a puppy atm and potty training is her nemeses . So was also interested in knowing what I’m in for. She is a miniature dashound and only 15 weeks old. We have just started on the basics in ur videos. Any advice is greatly appreciated.
I haven't made an episode specifically on that, but you can follow the process that I teach in my potty training video and just add the command for your dog to go potty. Should be easy enough. :) th-cam.com/video/EKqy0j7tYi0/w-d-xo.html
@@NateSchoemer thank you so much for replying. :)
Where are you located and do offer in person training. I will be getting a 12week Saint Bernard on 6/26/24 can you help?
I'm currently in Eugene, Oregon, but I'm in the process of moving, either to Indiana or New York. We haven't decided yet. I'll be sure to update my website when we move. I offer in-person and virtual training sessions. You can see how to sign up at the bottom of the home page of my website: NateSchoemer.com.
Cheers!
Hi Nate! I saw that in one of your videos you said that we should use the leash pressure before the verbal command if they know the command. Here you are using the verbal command before the leash pressure. Should we do like this when he doesn’t know the command?
Yes. Whatever comes first in a series is what you’re teaching your dog. Anything that follows is helping the dog learn what comes first. For example. Leash pressure, then command, then mark, then reward. In that situation the dog is learning the leash pressure, since that came first. If command comes first, then leash pressure, then mark, then reward, the dog is learning the command. Dogs learn through patterns. 😁
So what if your puppy does not care for treats if it means they must listen or respond. My young 9 week old will literally not respond to anything after the first 2 treats. I've tried kibble, boiled chicken, "training treats" , small amounts of cheese, other meats, etc...
He doesn't like/care for positive reinforcement.
Should I stop feeding him certain meals (like dinner) to work with a hungry pup?
I've had more than a few dogs but none have ever been so lazy, unmotivated and/or independent.
Here's a section from my dog training manual that I believe will be helpful.
Make him work for all his food.
Before we start training our dogs, we must know what motivates them. With any dog I start training, I like to begin with food and luring. Now, something I’m often asked by people is, “How do I train my dog when my dog doesn’t have any food motivation?” First, let me start by saying that every dog has food motivation, what varies is how intense the food motivation is. If you have a dog with low food motivation, there are techniques that you can use to increase that food drive.
Most dog’s low food motivation is caused by a few things: Either the dog has been overfed, free-fed, given very high value food such as cooked steak, or sometimes just feeding out of a bowl can cause this. As a result, the dog just doesn’t care that much about getting fed as a reward.
A common technique that we like to use to correct a lack of food drive is food deprivation. For this you will want to use mealtime as a training time. Bring the dog out and offer food to train, if the dog is not interested, no big deal, put the food away and try again at dinner.
Again, if the dog is not interested, put the food away and try again the next day. Continue to do this until your dog is willing to work for the food. Be sure not to give the dog any food between training. The dog has to know that he will only get food that he works for. I’ve used this technique on dozens of dogs and it’s worked every time.
Do you train individual peoples dogs?
I currently offer two services. Zoom/Facetime/Call training sessions or in-person training sessions. :)
what point to say "yes" and "free" if you dont differentiate same with clicker? i mean if click = yes then you dont need "free" or maybe for "free" use two clicks? also is better to use words "yes" and "no" instead "yes" and "wrong"?
Just saw results in FB. Awesome pup and work!
Thanks! We just have to keep in mind what each word means to the dog, based on what it predicts.
Continuation Marker: This is a sound that lets the dog know they will be receiving a reward. Sound = Reward
Terminal Marker: This is a sound that lets your dog know they will be receiving a reward, but it also guarantees a release.
Sound = reward & release.
When I use a clicker, I treat it as a terminal marker.
Firstly, there are the two positive types of markers: The first one is the continuation marker (I like to use the word “yes”). This is a word or sound that lets the dog know that they are correct and will be delivered a reward. It’s called a continuation marker because unlike the terminal marker, it doesn’t release the dog. Meaning, if your dog is in a command stay, you can use this marker without releasing the dog from the stay.
However, if your dog is not in a command stay, then this marker just means they’ll be rewarded. Therefore, this often confuses people because of the terminology “continuation”. This is why it’s easier to understand by what it predicts: A continuation marker predicts a reward. That’s it. It doesn’t change the circumstances, so if the dog is in a stay, they remain in the stay, and if the dog is not in a stay, then they remain free from the stay.
In contrast, we have the terminal markers (I like to use the word “free”). These release dogs from commanded positions as well as guaranteeing a reward. Ex.: If a dog was in a sitting position and you use your terminal marker, they are released from that position and will be given a reward (indicating the sit behavior is finished).
I hope this helps clear it up a little. Thanks for supporting the channel. :)
Hi Nate! Just had a really good training session with my almost 14WO rottie pup. We hand feed him his kibble through training and his walk every day but for nutritional benefits we decided to add goats milk, an egg, and a sardine to a bowl for him to eat. I have never seen him resource guard in such an extreme manner?? We stroked his head and when we did he growled. Hand went near the bowl and he barked and even gave a warning nip. His body language changed completely he was in a lower stance with his tail tucked in. Even when he had finished he was continuously licking the bowl so we tried taking the bowl and another growl and bark before trying to nip. Please help, and thank you
Here's a free copy of my dog training manual. I believe it'll be helpful: www.nateschoemer.com/manual
I started training a 7 month old german sheppard i just got her from a bad home. She has a lot of Energy. How long should her training sessions be?
Check out this video. Almost all of this applies to older puppies and dogs as well: th-cam.com/video/OvdKDE326gs/w-d-xo.html :)
What breed of do is this it's adorable
Good boy
I heard from a few dog trainers that a clicker is more precise for the dog, and the meaning is more clear for the dog. what do you think Nate?
Yes, because it doesn't have as many elements that can be affected by human error. It's also why clickers are popular and successful. One, the click always sounds the same. Our voices can change the way a word sounds by the way we say it. Number two, it's much easier to separate two physicals than separate a physical and a verbal. So because of this, people tend to be better at the timing when using a clicker. There is a slight learning curve, but once you get it down, it becomes easy. :)
Nate...using your foot on the leash to force a down?? All that teaches a dog is “opposition reflex” to the Down command. Why?...because you cant guide the leash pressure like you can with your hand. Tom Rose from what he writes in his book would say you are “overloading the dog” with this pressure technique. Feet on leashes are used to hold a dogs position to keep them from breaking command when building on bridging techniques. Tell me why I’m wrong?
It's a leash cue meant to guide the dog. When done and taught correctly, it's a clear and highly effective way to teach and reinforce commands. In addition, from my experience, the dogs learn commands way faster with the leash pressure. Meaning, they will respond to the verbal command alone quicker when training with the leash cue. :)
It also teaches the dog to go with the leash and not resist it. You can learn how to effectively and clearly teach your dog(s) leash pressure.
th-cam.com/video/9L8tK7mSD10/w-d-xo.html
th-cam.com/video/hCb1Y86eYBQ/w-d-xo.html
You can also see how I use the leash pressure to easily teach the stay command:
th-cam.com/video/s5iD8eN89bo/w-d-xo.html
Cheers!
2:10 i broked my fingers holding a leash like that
Love the video I am a dog trainer also
Thank you, I really appreciate that! :)
Where can I get a clicker ?
If you're curious about what food, treats, or training products that I use, you can see them listed here: :) www.nateschoemer.com/store
Hey Nate! Nice jacket, is it specifically for training or just something you own that works? Where did you get it?
Keep up the content, loving it to prepare for our GSD puppy in April
Thanks, I really appreciate it. You can see most of the products I use with my dogs here (Including the training vest): www.nateschoemer.com/store
Pavlov clicker. :3
what's this dog's breed ?
Border collie lab mix.
@@NateSchoemer Thanks man , it's an honor that you replied my question. so tell me please, how much is a border collie lab mix ?
My dog was a really good dog ones a did this
Nice!
Hey Nate, this is a bit off topic but how can I help my dog to chew his kibble I’ve got him. Before I handfed him a diy barf diet but I ended up having to switch to a kibble so I’ve got a good one for his training period. It’s just that he gulps it and then ends up choking sometimes. Any help? Thanks
I tried chopping but it just messes the kibble up and it also drags out the training too much as it ends up being so small. Thanks for all the help!
It's normal for dogs to swallow their food whole. Dog's teeth are not meant to chew. Check out this video to see what I mean: th-cam.com/video/v0lFwdNm_Go/w-d-xo.html
@@NateSchoemer thanks!
I need some help with my german shepard,,he cant Socialize w dogs and pipol at park
If you want to sign up for training you can email me at NateSchoemer@gmail.com :)
👍
Thanks, G K! :)
Hi man can u make a video to stop making my dog bark at people
The easiest and fastest way to teach quiet is to treat it as a conditioned correction. Meaning, say quiet and then correct your dog with a training collar and leash pop. After only a couple of those, your dog will stop barking or making noises when you say quiet. Once that's the case, then you no longer need to correct after the command. If you would rather not correct, then this is a good option as well: th-cam.com/video/0vtn8NhofOw/w-d-xo.html
Why do you use "wrong" instead of "no"?
You can use whatever word you like. It's about being consistent with the word that you choose to use. :)
@@NateSchoemer Do you use "no" at other times? As in marking unwanted behavior when you are not formally training?
May I ask How Many sessions a day and How Long a session is ??? We have a 11 year old golden (Cooper) and picking up a 3 month golden this weekend we did clicker with Coop At School as a Pup and need a Refresher course NOW and you have a Great Vid Here Thank You Nate
What would happen if multiple persons trained the same puppy....is that advised or should it not be practiced...advantages and disadvantages...also how long would you use the clicker for...
Yes, multiple people can train one dog as long as they are all being consistent. It would also help generalize the dog to the training. I stop using a clicker when I no longer have to do continual reinforcement. :)
Wtf than the qube than the reward thingy you made me confuse ehh
I am unable to train my German shepherd.He only understands sit , wait and go. I am very agitated as I bought it for protection purpose, bcoz my family is under threat
you forget the click and the dog will not understand the commands. maybe a competition in life is unnecessary ... the dog can communicate with people in an amazing way
The dog will still understand the command if you don't click. The click just let's them know they will be receiving a reward for their work. :)
It is okay if i can do both “yes” mark and the clicker sound at the same time?
Yes, you can have a clicker as a marker as well as your voice, if you like.
Why “free” and not “yes”
Here's a section from my manual that should help:
Firstly, there are the two positive types of markers: The first one is the continuation marker (I like to use the word “yes”). This is a word or sound that lets the dog know that they are correct and will be delivered a reward. It’s called a continuation marker because unlike the terminal marker, it doesn’t release the dog. Meaning, if your dog is in a command stay, you can use this marker without releasing the dog from the stay.
However, if your dog is not in a command stay, then this marker just means they’ll be rewarded. Therefore, this often confuses people because of the terminology “continuation”. This is why it’s easier to understand by what it predicts: A continuation marker predicts a reward. That’s it. It doesn’t change the circumstances, so if the dog is in a stay, they remain in the stay, and if the dog is not in a stay, then they remain free from the stay.
In contrast, we have the terminal markers (I like to use the word “free”). These release dogs from commanded positions as well as guaranteeing a reward. Ex.: If a dog was in a sitting position and you use your terminal marker, they are released from that position and will be given a reward (indicating the sit behavior is finished).
@@NateSchoemer i understand this, makes sense but you still give to dog a treat after free?
hello podrían traducir al español la información
¡Gracias! Gran sugerencia. Intentaré hacerlo en el futuro.
That actually looks like the puppy that was stolen from me 😞
Drink every time he says click
Lol!
Do you have a dog of ur own ???
I have two. Arih and Charlie. You can see them on my TH-cam channel art. The top of my youtube page. :)
Is it possible to speak a little slower for us middle age trainers. 🙂
You can change the playback speed by clicking the gear button. It's top right on my android. I generally go faster to keep my attention lol