We install metal roofing and siding professionally. Our suppliers have told us that either method will suffice if they're used in the right conditions. We screw the ribs, but those who do screw the flats claim that you get a tighter seal with the washer when there's a solid backing behind the metal. I guess that could be true depending on the installer, until the head of a screw gets ripped off by a sheet of ice sliding down the roof because the installer torqued it too tight to the point of almost snapping the head off with the driver. Any water shed in that area after = a leak for sure. If that broken screw were in the rib - which is a lot less likely to over tighten without distorting the rib - it would have a better chance of not being in the path of a stream of water when it rains, leading to less damage below the roof until the owner notices there's a screw missing and has it fixed - it's a lot easier to spot an interruption in the screw pattern when they're on the ribs. Screwing in the rib also gives the lap joints much better support in high wind environments. I've seen a microburst tear the entire roof off a barn that a crew just installed because they screwed in the flats and the lap joints were left flapping because they didn't want to screw the ribs. Give that wind an inch, it'll take a mile. I don't like screwing the flats unless it's a low slope, wall, a valley or gable trim. Low slopes won't shed ice and snow easily, and if the homeowner is using a roof rake to clean it and the screws are in the ribs, then they'll likely hit and loosen them or break the washer seal over time. Valleys get a gasket between the panel and valley flashing which needs to be screwed tight for obvious reasons - rib only won't suffice. We take precaution to make sure ice doesn't slide down the major and crash into the valley at 50 mph.
@@TheFalconJetDriver And serious winds! Like on Oct 10th. I'm in Rule, TX; north of Abilene. I had a sheet pull off the chicken coop because I hadn't screwed down on the rib properly!
nice work on the diy ridge cap. Here in Australia we use 'tin' on our house roofs a lot, probably the most common covering. we always screw into the ridges of the sheets. its also a good idea to 'weather' the top of the sheets that go under the ridge cap (should not be a problem on this shed) helps stop rain blowing up under the ridge cap and into the roof cavity. In Australia we don't cover the roof with any type of sheeting like ply or osb. its just rafters, purlin then either reflective backed paper or insulation blanket then the sheets. we usually insulate the ceilings and the roof cavities are generally 'open' to the elements, to a degree.
@@NoahNobody Probably some sort of seal or sealer between the sheets. We always ran a bead of silicone along the top ridge of the bottom piece then laid the top over it and put the screws through that ridge.
Lead sheeting in the old days which would last 500 years, it's now silicon sealant these days to keep the EHS numpties at bay which keeps the roofers employed for 500 years.
@@thegingerpowerranger we also use 'z-inserts'. which is either a sticky-backed expansive foam roll that gets compressed when the ridge is screwed down, or molded-foam sticks in the profile of the roof
Mathias you are a man after my own heart. I am a DYI'er and struggle all the time with Time over Cost issues when it comes to projects, and for the most part, if I need only do it once, then no amount of time investment will stop me from saving some cost, and yes, sometimes that IS unwise! LOL
Sitting here feeling absolutely mind blown ? Realising Iv been watching matthias for 10 11 years !!?? I bet 1000s have without realising but just mind blown!! Clever but not wise is now my new whole solgan !
@@antraxxslingshots I work at a roofing manufacturer. Screwing into the flats is recommended for areas that get snow loads. A snow rake will tear out the screws installed in the rib. For areas that don’t get that much snow, the rib is generally recommended, depending on the design of the roof.
another thing with putting the screws on the ridge, not sure about elsewhere in the world, but here in Aus, roofing screws are self tapping and have a part of the shaft near the top that is smooth so it looks like this: ¤|\\==\\\\\\\\\=> if you were screwing down to wooden battens, this would probably be fine, but steel ones, you run the risk of the smooth part being where it needs to 'bite' and having loose sheets.
@@robertaustin7752 thanks for the clarification :-). I live in Queensland, Australia so cyclones (hurricanes) are a constant. I forget that Northern Hemisphere has the weight of snow to deal with. ;-)
I put up a large swing set last year and it was cheaper to use a metal roof than one of those canvas/ tarp covers. I made the ridge cap from one of the corner caps since it was the same price as another panel and saved some work of cutting and bending. I didn't bother with cutting around the ridges. I'd recommend some screening at the ridge if that's an issue for you. Bonus is that it acts like a ridge vent with the large gap.
Beautiful! Here in Italy there are already insulated sheets, there is a version with those silhouettes called "thermocoperture" and the version for the walls called "thermoparete". Substantially 2 sheets with foam insulation expanded in the middle.
Years ago, an older neighbor with eyesight problems was building a shed and asked for some help putting on the metal roofing. It was galvanized and had been slightly oiled and was wet with morning dew so was rather slick. He had one of those ratcheting ladders so we put it over the top of the roof, matching the slope as best as possible, to give me something to hang onto. I finished safely, but every so often the ladder would shift and I would let out a not-brave-in-the-slightest yelp, much to my neighbor's amusement. Miss that nice old guy.
Over here (Finland) you put the screws through the top where you join two sheets (that join is designed so that a potential leak runs into a tiny gutter and then out), then the rest go straight into the wood on the lower portions. Leaks are less likely when you screw directly into the wood as it cant move as much with thermal expansion cycles. And all buildings on a larger scale have another layer underneath to catch condensation and possible leaks and direct them out into the gutters.
I was today years old when I learned that that kind of tools is called a _tin snips_ in English. How cute! BTW: In Norwegian it's called _blikksaks_ ... not very cute.
The one drawback that I find in metal roofing is the noise when it rains. My father's forge used to have a tile roofing, as it's usual around here. It all had to be renewed and extended when converted into a workshop, so he decided to go with a metal roof, which made sense as, he and his brother being blacksmiths, it was the best choice. However, whenever it rains, you can't understand what anyone else says, it's too loud.
@@maxdecphoenix it's not in use anymore, I go there every few days but just to make sure everything is in order, I very rarely do any work there, if ever. So, it's not worth trying. Should I change my career and work there or rent the place and I would seriously give it a try. Thank you!
@Matt when you're outside, mostly. When you're inside, it's a relatively low roof, two walls are made of stone, another too are made of brick and mortar, and it echoes... it becomes a bit annoying.
On cutting metal and other materials - a tip I learned from Adam Savage on his Tested channel: When you're using a knife to cut through material, it's okay to make repeated shallow cuts until you've cut deep enough to do what you want with it. Easier to do than pressing hard with a single cut.
You covered almost everything, but I'm still confused about what to do at the roof edges. I'm not using trim so if I start with a raised rib and end with a flat section, what should I do? No over hang with flat start and finish?
Roof plumber (metal roofer ) for 25 years. Always in the rib and please don't use a saw or grinder, grinder being the worst use a nibbler if you don't have one just take the time and use snips. Also your flashings a pretty good. You didn't turn up your sheets at the ridge so you may get leaks, use some duck Bill pliers to turn them up. Wide mouth pliers
You know professionals always say that, but when I try to use tin snips it always ends up way worse and I end up cutting myself way more often. Is there a reason apart from corrosion not to use the angle grinder?
I have heard not to use a grinder before too, but never saw any bad results from using one. You expose the ungalvanized ends either way, just the edge is a bit rougher with the grinder, but the profile doesn't get messed up.
@@TorbenArentoft Or that there's enough flex that the panels don't fit well for the long term. It would seem that some kind of standoff under the ridge would be able to address that.
I know why I did it. I can't answer for anyone else. I put it in the flat because that is what the instructions from the manufacturer said to do. But it was just a chicken coop. Didn't leak as far as I know.
how are Alaska permits these days? In the lower 48, any kind of "permanent residence" first needs a subsurface sewage permit if you have indoor plumbing. My county said they never permitted a year-round composting toilet. The county to the north includes a year-round composting toilet. If you can get beyond that first hurdle then I think they don't really care about building codes in my county - it's just if you have a foundation. You need an electrical inspection if you have wiring. But I lived in a cabin in Alaska - just west of Talkeetna - west of Petersville. We had no insulation!! We lasted four months and left with six feet of snow. South side of Denali. Totally off grid. It was homestead land and I doubt permits were necessary. Here you are REQUIRED to have a building permit if you occupy the structure. You can live in a tent but then it has to be a short-term shelter and only for 7 months a year maximum. You would have to move your tent every 21 days - or every week for 21 days shelter for a month. Then you still would be required to have a "permanent residence" somewhere else based on the tax assessment (either it would be recreational or maybe a farm labor shelter). So in other words it would be illegal to live on the land full time unless you can get a year round composting toilet for a primitive cabin. The problem is the county planner doesn't understand composting! Sure you are required to get a privy permit for a composting toilet but that's considered a "toilet waste treatment device." Then a primitive composting toilet is supposed to "bury" the waste or cover it with 3 feet separation from the water. So I guess you could "cover" it with composting carbon matter instead of just soil - because you need the aerobic bacteria for compost. The county planner said they would have to check it out for composting. Vermont is trying to get a law passed to allow actual composting of human waste because a farm that used a composting toilet got shut down by the county in Vermont. Meanwhile Dr. Sasha Kramer in Haiti set up a thermophilic composting toilet business since it gets rid of the pollution while also fertilizing the land to grow food.
if time is money and all things being relative then being able to indulge in your own bull-headedness in making the ridgeline should be worth the opportunity cost paid to take the cheaper and slower path. thriftiness is its own reward, afterall
When I build my shed I’m going to do a flat roof with a high slope. It will be easier than the A-frame roof and have the same effect in repelling rain and snow.
@@stevegerber169 : Sounds like I didn’t explain it correctly, lol. Okay, instead of an A-frame roof that peaks in the middle, I’m going to use sheets of plywood, covered with shingles or metal, that run from the front of the shed to the back, but at a fairly steep angle. For example, if the front wall of the shed is 12’ and the back wall is 8’ it will give me enough of a pitch that rain and snow will run off. It will be faster and easier to build than messing with building gables and a ridge cap.
I ordered some similar panels. The color sheet was just some random other color. Also, it was uneven/splotchy. It would not have occurred to me to use it for anything. My assumption was that it was a mistake, not that they deliberately made it "bad" so nobody could use it.
Couldn't help but notice that your saw horses aren't the ones you built from previous videos! I still recall your scientific test of how much abuse they could stand up to. 😆
He mentioned in an earlier video of this series that he cut the furrlins (?) to the wrong length and was able to use the mistake to make new saw horses.
As someone who's never built anything, my question is, is it not important to also cover the wood parts on the outside of the shed, under the sheet metal?
I believe that would only be necessary if this were a conditioned space, that extra covering would be a a vapor barrier to prevent condensation on the inside of the walls in the summer.
you shouldve used the cover sheet for the door... also you shouldve put j channel at the tops of the sheeting with it being distanced enough from the eave for soffit.. im wondering if youll just do wood soffit or metal.
I am shocked by the floor support and roof support. No structural strength. Especially for building over sloped ground. Ridge cap idea worked great though
I think the logic is that the screws go into the low parts so they have more wood to bite into, and you seal them with a rubber gasket to prevent leaking. More wood means they won't come loose as easy as going in through the ridges. However I wonder what would happen if a strip of wood was glued down where the ridges would go.That would essentially eliminate the problem.
For the ribs, you use longer screws. I think the problem is mostly that people don't pay attention, overtighten the screws, and punch through the ribs. That doesn't happen on the flats.
@@matthiaswandel That makes sense. It makes me think that is probably part of the reason why manufacturers suggest screwing it down on the flat part, just to curb the amount of returns people make for "inferior products" when they screwed up. (No pun intended)
We install metal roofing and siding professionally. Our suppliers have told us that either method will suffice if they're used in the right conditions. We screw the ribs, but those who do screw the flats claim that you get a tighter seal with the washer when there's a solid backing behind the metal. I guess that could be true depending on the installer, until the head of a screw gets ripped off by a sheet of ice sliding down the roof because the installer torqued it too tight to the point of almost snapping the head off with the driver. Any water shed in that area after = a leak for sure. If that broken screw were in the rib - which is a lot less likely to over tighten without distorting the rib - it would have a better chance of not being in the path of a stream of water when it rains, leading to less damage below the roof until the owner notices there's a screw missing and has it fixed - it's a lot easier to spot an interruption in the screw pattern when they're on the ribs. Screwing in the rib also gives the lap joints much better support in high wind environments. I've seen a microburst tear the entire roof off a barn that a crew just installed because they screwed in the flats and the lap joints were left flapping because they didn't want to screw the ribs. Give that wind an inch, it'll take a mile. I don't like screwing the flats unless it's a low slope, wall, a valley or gable trim. Low slopes won't shed ice and snow easily, and if the homeowner is using a roof rake to clean it and the screws are in the ribs, then they'll likely hit and loosen them or break the washer seal over time. Valleys get a gasket between the panel and valley flashing which needs to be screwed tight for obvious reasons - rib only won't suffice. We take precaution to make sure ice doesn't slide down the major and crash into the valley at 50 mph.
thanks for sharing your experience
Does the ice really rip out the screw heads sometimes?
@@matthiaswandel We have not experienced that phenomenon here in West Texas! We do get ice storms and snow here! 😁🛫
@@TheFalconJetDriver And serious winds! Like on Oct 10th. I'm in Rule, TX; north of Abilene. I had a sheet pull off the chicken coop because I hadn't screwed down on the rib properly!
@@jrkorman I know where Rule is! I live in ABI
"Clever, but not wise" - need to remember that one.
I heard that phrase, "Cleaver but not wise" in the documentary "Ancient Futures" on Ladakh - made by Helena Norberg-Hodge. It's on youtube.
"Clever, but not wise."
I need that on a T-shirt. Maybe you can sell some merch like that!
"Clever, but not wise" is a great line, I find myself feeling that way much too often!
nice work on the diy ridge cap.
Here in Australia we use 'tin' on our house roofs a lot, probably the most common covering. we always screw into the ridges of the sheets.
its also a good idea to 'weather' the top of the sheets that go under the ridge cap (should not be a problem on this shed) helps stop rain blowing up under the ridge cap and into the roof cavity.
In Australia we don't cover the roof with any type of sheeting like ply or osb. its just rafters, purlin then either reflective backed paper or insulation blanket then the sheets. we usually insulate the ceilings and the roof cavities are generally 'open' to the elements, to a degree.
What does weather mean in this context?
@@NoahNobody Probably some sort of seal or sealer between the sheets. We always ran a bead of silicone along the top ridge of the bottom piece then laid the top over it and put the screws through that ridge.
Lead sheeting in the old days which would last 500 years, it's now silicon sealant these days to keep the EHS numpties at bay which keeps the roofers employed for 500 years.
@@NoahNobody Not the OP, but we always turn up the flat sections of the sheet so wind-driven rain doesn't get over this new ridge.
@@thegingerpowerranger we also use 'z-inserts'. which is either a sticky-backed expansive foam roll that gets compressed when the ridge is screwed down, or molded-foam sticks in the profile of the roof
Wow, I think you did a fantastic job. I like the ridge cap build as well as the fitment around the top. I'm impressed.
Mathias you are a man after my own heart. I am a DYI'er and struggle all the time with Time over Cost issues when it comes to projects, and for the most part, if I need only do it once, then no amount of time investment will stop me from saving some cost, and yes, sometimes that IS unwise! LOL
Hey you use an impact driver now! Never thought I would see that happen
I agree 110% with the fastening screw locations. I've seen too many leaks from putting them in the flats.
Sitting here feeling absolutely mind blown ? Realising Iv been watching matthias for 10 11 years !!?? I bet 1000s have without realising but just mind blown!! Clever but not wise is now my new whole solgan !
I first found him on the web in pre-youtube days, not videos, just "articles" about stuff he was working on. I want to say... 1999. So ~22 years.
Putting the screws through the tip of the roofing, as you did, is the only way to go. It holds better against cyclonic winds as well.
I was thinking the same and really wondering what is the reasoning behind the producers recommending the flat spots.
It's too easy to forget the cyclonic winds until they come along and your shed does a Wizard of Oz and you're not in Kansas anymore.
@@antraxxslingshots I work at a roofing manufacturer. Screwing into the flats is recommended for areas that get snow loads. A snow rake will tear out the screws installed in the rib. For areas that don’t get that much snow, the rib is generally recommended, depending on the design of the roof.
another thing with putting the screws on the ridge, not sure about elsewhere in the world, but here in Aus, roofing screws are self tapping and have a part of the shaft near the top that is smooth so it looks like this: ¤|\\==\\\\\\\\\=> if you were screwing down to wooden battens, this would probably be fine, but steel ones, you run the risk of the smooth part being where it needs to 'bite' and having loose sheets.
@@robertaustin7752 thanks for the clarification :-). I live in Queensland, Australia so cyclones (hurricanes) are a constant. I forget that Northern Hemisphere has the weight of snow to deal with. ;-)
I put up a large swing set last year and it was cheaper to use a metal roof than one of those canvas/ tarp covers.
I made the ridge cap from one of the corner caps since it was the same price as another panel and saved some work of cutting and bending. I didn't bother with cutting around the ridges. I'd recommend some screening at the ridge if that's an issue for you. Bonus is that it acts like a ridge vent with the large gap.
Beautiful! Here in Italy there are already insulated sheets, there is a version with those silhouettes called "thermocoperture" and the version for the walls called "thermoparete". Substantially 2 sheets with foam insulation expanded in the middle.
I'm always impressed on how much you save on your projects, you are a paragon for every Swabian out there 😂
Looks great! Definitely gives me some ideas, never thought of using sheet metal siding over wood frame.
Years ago, an older neighbor with eyesight problems was building a shed and asked for some help putting on the metal roofing. It was galvanized and had been slightly oiled and was wet with morning dew so was rather slick. He had one of those ratcheting ladders so we put it over the top of the roof, matching the slope as best as possible, to give me something to hang onto. I finished safely, but every so often the ladder would shift and I would let out a not-brave-in-the-slightest yelp, much to my neighbor's amusement. Miss that nice old guy.
Wow there is a lot of fancy cutting and angles with that cladding. Great job Matthias, thumbs up.
Impressive tin cutting skills Matthias!
I love your thinking processes.....all those years...
Thanks for the public discussion about rigde vs flat. I still down know which I would choose.
Over here (Finland) you put the screws through the top where you join two sheets (that join is designed so that a potential leak runs into a tiny gutter and then out), then the rest go straight into the wood on the lower portions. Leaks are less likely when you screw directly into the wood as it cant move as much with thermal expansion cycles. And all buildings on a larger scale have another layer underneath to catch condensation and possible leaks and direct them out into the gutters.
I used to work for Tri-Province in Moncton. Steel roofing is a great way to go, even if it is expensive.
I was todays years old when I learned about lefty and righty tin snips!
I'm going to venture that "todays [sic] years old" is 39 in your case.
Look up Ron Covell on TH-cam he has an awesome video about aviation snips… well worth the watch. Mind blown when I watched it
I was today years old when I learned that that kind of tools is called a _tin snips_ in English. How cute!
BTW: In Norwegian it's called _blikksaks_ ... not very cute.
Left tin snips have Red handles (Port), Right tin snips have Green handles (Starboard). and 'middle' tin snips have yellow handles.
@@egilsandnes9637 they’re technically aviation snips, tin snips are typically bigger, but most people in American call them tin snips
Beautiful work, Matthias! It's looking great! 😃
Stay safe there with your family! 🖖😊
You are an expert and a genius, congratulations
Clever but not wise. Love that! That is partly why I watch this channel....J Heitz as well .Cheers you guys and thanks
1:40 there are insulating foam strips with the same shape as the corrugated sheets to close the gaps. Saves a lot of time.
"they were charging way too much for the ridge cap so i made my own". this is why i love this channel
The one drawback that I find in metal roofing is the noise when it rains. My father's forge used to have a tile roofing, as it's usual around here. It all had to be renewed and extended when converted into a workshop, so he decided to go with a metal roof, which made sense as, he and his brother being blacksmiths, it was the best choice. However, whenever it rains, you can't understand what anyone else says, it's too loud.
so hit it with some spray foam or something. tack some old carpet up there.
@@maxdecphoenix it's not in use anymore, I go there every few days but just to make sure everything is in order, I very rarely do any work there, if ever. So, it's not worth trying. Should I change my career and work there or rent the place and I would seriously give it a try.
Thank you!
@Matt when you're outside, mostly. When you're inside, it's a relatively low roof, two walls are made of stone, another too are made of brick and mortar, and it echoes... it becomes a bit annoying.
Especially with just purlins
On cutting metal and other materials - a tip I learned from Adam Savage on his Tested channel: When you're using a knife to cut through material, it's okay to make repeated shallow cuts until you've cut deep enough to do what you want with it. Easier to do than pressing hard with a single cut.
2:30 "Clever, but not wise."
That describes so much of my work.
How convenient that the sheet metal comes already painted green
What a great video serie. Thought I was looking at an episode of "Homestead Rescue". Only the weather was a bit better 😁.
What about sprinkling boric acid or similar stuff in the crevasses that will be sealed up to prevent bug infestations?
The genius of simplicity!
Why was there no blood? Sheet metal work = bleeding.
You covered almost everything, but I'm still confused about what to do at the roof edges. I'm not using trim so if I start with a raised rib and end with a flat section, what should I do? No over hang with flat start and finish?
I like the corners, nice job on a budget
I use a sheet profile which is deeper than this and fix through the flat. I like the idea of using 2x4 as a brake.
It's the first time I heard you say that something was too much work. From a guy who admitted that he over engineers everything LOL
Having b uilt a shed years ago i can say one t hing... always go as big as you can.. think mine is 8x12 and i wish i would have went 12x16.
Thank you for captions. 🤍
Roof plumber (metal roofer ) for 25 years. Always in the rib and please don't use a saw or grinder, grinder being the worst use a nibbler if you don't have one just take the time and use snips. Also your flashings a pretty good. You didn't turn up your sheets at the ridge so you may get leaks, use some duck Bill pliers to turn them up. Wide mouth pliers
You know professionals always say that, but when I try to use tin snips it always ends up way worse and I end up cutting myself way more often.
Is there a reason apart from corrosion not to use the angle grinder?
I have heard not to use a grinder before too, but never saw any bad results from using one. You expose the ungalvanized ends either way, just the edge is a bit rougher with the grinder, but the profile doesn't get messed up.
@@matthiaswandel its just for rust, the sheets are pretty hardy but will 100% rust and it will move up from the cut
If you ever plan to do more, a nibbler is the best for cutting
@@matthiaswandel its the temperature of the grinder were as a nibbler would be not much more then air temp
Water runs down the flat part, not on top of the ridge. Why would anyone put the screw where the water is?
The logic I’m assuming is that the screws have rubber grommets and would form a better seal.
I believe the theory is that with the screw head so far from the timber, there's a higher risk that it could wiggle loose or break
@@TorbenArentoft Or that there's enough flex that the panels don't fit well for the long term.
It would seem that some kind of standoff under the ridge would be able to address that.
If the sheets last forever they wont be able to sell you more...
I know why I did it. I can't answer for anyone else. I put it in the flat because that is what the instructions from the manufacturer said to do. But it was just a chicken coop. Didn't leak as far as I know.
Should insulate the roof - it heats a lot during summer.
Its Canada, in a line of trees and its for storage, not living space.
In the previous video he said he was going to insulate the roof. If I am not mistaken.
Great design ,very solid.
for the bending if you trim off the curve it'll make a sharper bend, if you want one.
3:50 what is your shed sitting on?
Most people call that a shed. Up here in remote Alaska call it a cabin
how are Alaska permits these days? In the lower 48, any kind of "permanent residence" first needs a subsurface sewage permit if you have indoor plumbing. My county said they never permitted a year-round composting toilet. The county to the north includes a year-round composting toilet. If you can get beyond that first hurdle then I think they don't really care about building codes in my county - it's just if you have a foundation. You need an electrical inspection if you have wiring. But I lived in a cabin in Alaska - just west of Talkeetna - west of Petersville. We had no insulation!! We lasted four months and left with six feet of snow. South side of Denali. Totally off grid. It was homestead land and I doubt permits were necessary. Here you are REQUIRED to have a building permit if you occupy the structure. You can live in a tent but then it has to be a short-term shelter and only for 7 months a year maximum. You would have to move your tent every 21 days - or every week for 21 days shelter for a month. Then you still would be required to have a "permanent residence" somewhere else based on the tax assessment (either it would be recreational or maybe a farm labor shelter). So in other words it would be illegal to live on the land full time unless you can get a year round composting toilet for a primitive cabin. The problem is the county planner doesn't understand composting! Sure you are required to get a privy permit for a composting toilet but that's considered a "toilet waste treatment device." Then a primitive composting toilet is supposed to "bury" the waste or cover it with 3 feet separation from the water. So I guess you could "cover" it with composting carbon matter instead of just soil - because you need the aerobic bacteria for compost. The county planner said they would have to check it out for composting. Vermont is trying to get a law passed to allow actual composting of human waste because a farm that used a composting toilet got shut down by the county in Vermont. Meanwhile Dr. Sasha Kramer in Haiti set up a thermophilic composting toilet business since it gets rid of the pollution while also fertilizing the land to grow food.
I think your tin work is exceptional! The way the shed is supported up off the ground looks VERY sketchy... but time will tell... haha
Watched it making a great job
if time is money and all things being relative then being able to indulge in your own bull-headedness in making the ridgeline should be worth the opportunity cost paid to take the cheaper and slower path. thriftiness is its own reward, afterall
Won't windblown rain get up under the ridge cap and drip into the building?
it's not that windy UNDER the ridge cap
It would have been interesting to see you make profile shaped blocking to fill the gap under the ridge cap, perhaps using your pantorouter.
I feel dumb. What's a reliable method to get measurements for those cutouts? I feel like I'd screw it up.
Doesn't the material rust where you cut it?
Yes, where I cut mine when I built my pole barn has rusted 3/8 to 3/4” in forty years.
@@Hoaxer51 That's good longevity but the over-engineer in me wants to prime or otherwise treat the cut edge. I know.. Overkill.
@@osheros,There’s nothing wrong with that, I’m surprised that mine wasn’t any worse than it was.
Man that was a lot of work
Has the price of roofing metal soared like other building materials? and who is the best supplier in Fredericton?
I just ordered it thru home hardware. Which may or may not be the best place to order it through.
good colour for a shed. sheet metaling in the uk tends to come in boring colours
You do nice work.
When I build my shed I’m going to do a flat roof with a high slope. It will be easier than the A-frame roof and have the same effect in repelling rain and snow.
How could you possibly have a flat roof with a high slope?
@@stevegerber169 : Sounds like I didn’t explain it correctly, lol. Okay, instead of an A-frame roof that peaks in the middle, I’m going to use sheets of plywood, covered with shingles or metal, that run from the front of the shed to the back, but at a fairly steep angle. For example, if the front wall of the shed is 12’ and the back wall is 8’ it will give me enough of a pitch that rain and snow will run off. It will be faster and easier to build than messing with building gables and a ridge cap.
Lefty and righty tin snips.. I mean what the heck, so simple and brilliant
Hi Matthias, Does that sheet metal expand/contract during weather changes? Would that be a problem?
Are you worried about flying snow (flugschnee)?
was hard to tell, but did you screw them to the ridges on the walls as well?
mostly on the flats there, so the kids won't get caught on the screws.
En invierno con las heladas te va a hacer condensación.
Great tin work Matthias! Aren't u glad u dont have to work with that stuff everyday!? 😄👍
“Cleaver but not wise.” That describes my whole life.
Matthias, What happened to the saw horses you made several years back?
That’s gonna be a very fun place for your kids!
He mentioned in a post above that he left them behind in the move.
0:15 because you are running ...
what does Matthias say in this part?
"you run into a lot less problems with leakage that way".
because you run into much less issues with leakage that way
Holy sheet, there's a lot of sheets.
Do they really make the cover sheet in an off color, to prevent people ordering one less than they need!!?
More than likely its damaged parts they can't sell.
I ordered some similar panels. The color sheet was just some random other color. Also, it was uneven/splotchy. It would not have occurred to me to use it for anything. My assumption was that it was a mistake, not that they deliberately made it "bad" so nobody could use it.
I take it that you're using multiple impact drivers so swapping bits isn't necessary.
Are you going to hide the underside? Looks like a good place for curious kids to explore.
Simpler to teach your kids to stay away from the underside.
@@KipdoesStuff maybe but I'm not certain. Easy enough to put up some lattice. Those pillars are a bit precarious.
Good job 👏 👍
IMPRESSIVE❗️
Couldn't help but notice that your saw horses aren't the ones you built from previous videos! I still recall your scientific test of how much abuse they could stand up to. 😆
Left those behind in the move.
He mentioned in an earlier video of this series that he cut the furrlins (?) to the wrong length and was able to use the mistake to make new saw horses.
@@KipdoesStuff Purlins! (A rare instance when I actually know the spelling of a word.)
how does the room ventilate?
He said at the end that he was planning to install windows.
Its also just a shed, not a living space.
just FYI, yellow handled tin snips are neither left or right, they're for straight cuts. you wanted to use the greens and reds.
reds are right angle ones. The lefty is a mirror image of the yellow one.
I think it might depend on the country or something
As someone who's never built anything, my question is, is it not important to also cover the wood parts on the outside of the shed, under the sheet metal?
I think that as long as it is protected from UV light and it is able to dry after it gets wet, then it should be totally fine.
I believe that would only be necessary if this were a conditioned space, that extra covering would be a a vapor barrier to prevent condensation on the inside of the walls in the summer.
I would have used expanding foam for the bug barrier.
0:37 1.7M SUB still do not have cordless circular saw.
Make the windows on the door. Seems legit!
you shouldve used the cover sheet for the door... also you shouldve put j channel at the tops of the sheeting with it being distanced enough from the eave for soffit.. im wondering if youll just do wood soffit or metal.
Some solar panel topics for random stuff channel??
Aesthetics are definitely as important as water tightness
I would have used the darker "cover sheet" for the door instead, for some unique color contrast.
great job
Next year Matthias will make a new video. Building a bigger shed. 😁
Cural down on wind facing side
Is there a reason why auto-generated closed captions are disabled? As a hearing impaired person these are really essential for me.
It's a fresh post. Captions take time to be generated by TH-cam.
thanks
3:19 It's not an official Matthias Wandel project video until he's hammering screws.
"Clever...but not wise." Ha, gonna steal this for use against programmers.
Nice job
Safety squints on at 0:45
I was waiting for a comment about "those dirty rotten squirrels" XD
Those didn't look like your homemade sawhorses. Are you going to make another set? How about a new folding design?
I am shocked by the floor support and roof support. No structural strength. Especially for building over sloped ground.
Ridge cap idea worked great though
I think the logic is that the screws go into the low parts so they have more wood to bite into, and you seal them with a rubber gasket to prevent leaking. More wood means they won't come loose as easy as going in through the ridges. However I wonder what would happen if a strip of wood was glued down where the ridges would go.That would essentially eliminate the problem.
For the ribs, you use longer screws. I think the problem is mostly that people don't pay attention, overtighten the screws, and punch through the ribs. That doesn't happen on the flats.
@@matthiaswandel That makes sense. It makes me think that is probably part of the reason why manufacturers suggest screwing it down on the flat part, just to curb the amount of returns people make for "inferior products" when they screwed up. (No pun intended)
@@matthiaswandel We always use the clutch on the drill for a nice snug fit that didn't destroy the rib,
What are those funny looking saw horse devices