I would not start out that way, especially if you have never tried this method before. The good thing about this method is it is a lot easier to remove the weathering if you put on too much on the first try if it is applied to painted plastic and not a matte or dullcoat finish. After the first application you should have a pretty good idea of how much to apply even on a matte or dull finish. But for beginners I still suggest not applying the finish first. As I said in the video this is a very forgiving process, until you apply the first coat of protective finish. After that it is much more difficult to remove excess pigment.
I love it! Now we need one on Weathering Steam and Diesel Locomotives without Airbrushing, using weathering Oil paints and with airbrushes! I love this channel and it always is helping me improve my own work!
Thank you for the great video. I don't have an airbrush, so all my painting is by hand. I have seen the chalk method, as well as just using isopropyl alcohol to fade the paint.
Larry I like how you used the chalks I also have an air brush I think I am going to try this method on some cars I am also planning to weather my track using the chalk method.
Yep, that’s where you can work in more of the dark brown. And the great thing about pigments is it is hard to overdo it since you can spray on an overcoat and most of it will fade. I like to vary the heaviness of the overcoat since that controls how much of what you just applied remains visible.
I got a couple of your question by email but they won’t come up in the comments here. Yes, I have bought tons from Hattons and also from Rails of Sheffield and Kernow Model Centre, all are good and reliable. Rails of Sheffield is especially good for used (pre-owned) models and only sell those in like new condition but I have had at least one bad loco from Hattons. The prices you see on their websites typically include their VAT which basically is a national sales tax. Products shipped to a US address will have that subtracted and it is 20%, so it basically covers the currency differences. Shipping is not bad and I often pay more to get stuff shipped from my dealer in SC than from the UK. It takes about 2 weeks and is automatically processed through customs here. I have never had to pay an import duty.
It doesn't hurt anything to spray the clear on the wheels? At first, I figured you would remove the axles for fear of the sprayed wheels fouling the track. Thanks for the video.
I’ve never had any problems with it and it is a very light coat. Because of the 90 degree angle little if any gets on the tread and the overspray just blows on by. If it were a loco or car with pickups then yes I would take precautions. If you want you can just pop the wheels out when doing this.
Great technique! I feel like using chalk and pastel instead of paint and airbrushing is a lot less intimidating. Can I get the same level of weathering as someone who used an airbrush with this technique?
Yes, but it will be more difficult to remove any excess if you don’t like the initial applications. One advantage of starting with the bare painted surface is this is a very forgiving process initially, until you apply the protective coat.
I am having problems with glues. I have used the Mastercraft plastic glue, the Plastic Welding glue, Super Glue. What's happening is the glue is allowing my n scale models to start falling apart. I have used super glue and found Baking Soda works very good but leaves a chuck of stuff behind. Than I found a super glue with a spray to seal it and hope it works. But the regular plastic glues are not working.
@@TheDCCGuy that's one of the others that come apart in a few years. I have tried like 6 to 8 different glues. The only one that seems to work is the Dollar Store Super glue.
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The car really needs to be sprayed with dullcoat first so the powder has something to bite and hold in place.
I would not start out that way, especially if you have never tried this method before. The good thing about this method is it is a lot easier to remove the weathering if you put on too much on the first try if it is applied to painted plastic and not a matte or dullcoat finish. After the first application you should have a pretty good idea of how much to apply even on a matte or dull finish. But for beginners I still suggest not applying the finish first. As I said in the video this is a very forgiving process, until you apply the first coat of protective finish. After that it is much more difficult to remove excess pigment.
@@TheDCCGuy Makes sense for someone trying the first time. understand.
Always enjoy your videos with a cup of coffee and a biscuit.
Thank you Larry. Great tips. Appreciate you taking the time to share weathering techniques with us. Have a great day.
Thank you for the information on dulling and weathering which you make it look easier than I thought it would be.
Thanks Larry, what a great and basically inexpensive way to create the very natural effect of Weathering. Keep safe.
Excellent video. Thanks Larry.
I love it! Now we need one on Weathering Steam and Diesel Locomotives without Airbrushing, using weathering Oil paints and with airbrushes! I love this channel and it always is helping me improve my own work!
Perfect, I was just thinking yesterday that I should weather some cars and locos
Mr. Puckett, thank you for this superb video! You have convinced me to weather my equipment.
Excellent class on weathering. Thanks Larry
Thank you for the great video. I don't have an airbrush, so all my painting is by hand. I have seen the chalk method, as well as just using isopropyl alcohol to fade the paint.
Be careful with alcohol. It can "cloud" up the paint.
Awesome job...you really have done a great job growing this channel.
Wonderful instructive video Larry ... Thank You !!!
nice video and you sure have a lot of goodies among your old videos. So great find, now i am av subscriber, thanks !
Larry I like how you used the chalks I also have an air brush I think I am going to try this method on some cars I am also planning to weather my track using the chalk method.
Looking good, most of the dirt low down tends to be rust from brakes and dust thrown up from the ballast.
Yep, that’s where you can work in more of the dark brown. And the great thing about pigments is it is hard to overdo it since you can spray on an overcoat and most of it will fade. I like to vary the heaviness of the overcoat since that controls how much of what you just applied remains visible.
Great video. I never knew how important dull coat or clear coat could be in weathering with pastels..
I got a couple of your question by email but they won’t come up in the comments here. Yes, I have bought tons from Hattons and also from Rails of Sheffield and Kernow Model Centre, all are good and reliable. Rails of Sheffield is especially good for used (pre-owned) models and only sell those in like new condition but I have had at least one bad loco from Hattons. The prices you see on their websites typically include their VAT which basically is a national sales tax. Products shipped to a US address will have that subtracted and it is 20%, so it basically covers the currency differences. Shipping is not bad and I often pay more to get stuff shipped from my dealer in SC than from the UK. It takes about 2 weeks and is automatically processed through customs here. I have never had to pay an import duty.
Awesome 💯💯💯💯💯💯
It doesn't hurt anything to spray the clear on the wheels? At first, I figured you would remove the axles for fear of the sprayed wheels fouling the track. Thanks for the video.
I’ve never had any problems with it and it is a very light coat. Because of the 90 degree angle little if any gets on the tread and the overspray just blows on by. If it were a loco or car with pickups then yes I would take precautions. If you want you can just pop the wheels out when doing this.
@@TheDCCGuy Thanks, Larry.
Great technique! I feel like using chalk and pastel instead of paint and airbrushing is a lot less intimidating.
Can I get the same level of weathering as someone who used an airbrush with this technique?
I would say yes after some practice.
Great video. Can you use q-tips in place of the foam makeup applicators?
I suspect they would work, give it a try on a scrap car.
@@TheDCCGuy I will thanks.
If you start with a clear spray wouldn’t the pigment stay better on when you spray it a second time?
Yes, but it will be more difficult to remove any excess if you don’t like the initial applications. One advantage of starting with the bare painted surface is this is a very forgiving process initially, until you apply the protective coat.
I like to take the wheels off the trucks before addressing the trucks
I am having problems with glues. I have used the Mastercraft plastic glue, the Plastic Welding glue, Super Glue.
What's happening is the glue is allowing my n scale models to start falling apart.
I have used super glue and found Baking Soda works very good but leaves a chuck of stuff behind. Than I found a super glue with a spray to seal it and hope it works. But the regular plastic glues are not working.
I use Plastruct liquid cement for all my plastic models. Check your local HobbyTown.
@@TheDCCGuy that's one of the others that come apart in a few years. I have tried like 6 to 8 different glues. The only one that seems to work is the Dollar Store Super glue.