There’s something about the little pause as the score reels reset that just makes me grin. Click click click click click ... pause ... click click click click SHUNK. Love that.
Man , the mechanical complexity of these advanced one from the 70’s is amazing! I am amazed every time you open one up. And you say the bingo pinballs are even more complex? Wow!
@@LyonsArcade I was wondering if you had any videos on one of these or at least a video of at least open them up! Might even be more subscribers! New be more of them will give a thumbs up and hit subscribe at the the beginning of the video even before you say it! As you say the video is going to be awesome anyways. You've not let me down once! But getting back to the pinball machines sort of! But having to do with switch contacts in general. One of the things people use for some contacts not necessarily a pinball but may not be recommended either! An automotive Point file! I have a feeling that the pinball machine contacts would be too delicate for this! Have used in other situations where where contacts are in really bad shape and inside like thermostat contacts and other switch contacts especially line voltage. Or heavy duty contacts! Also I've heard using a a back of a matchbook the Striking surface! Even part of a matchbook might be good for contact cleaning instead of like a business card but of course your mileage may vary either way! And also I've seen in some cases saying specifically not to use a striking surface from a matchbook for burnishing contacts. So-called Precision contacts! AKA very delicate ones! I've worked hard enough equipment that uses electromechanical relays motorized switching who knows what else anything like that would that would have contacts of any sort. Also I've repurposed relays and other electromechanical assemblies in my own projects. I'd get ahold of things are obsolete and repurpose assemblies and other gizmos and gadgets out of it. One of my favorites it was a beefy shaded pole motor that had two shafts. But one had a slip coupling that would allow the shaft to slide in and out but still be same length on that end connected to one part of the device. The other end was attached to a gearbox in a few other gizmos inside don't know how to describe it did not dismantle it since I wanted to keep it intact. Essentially it was a stepper at least on the one shaft. 1 shaft that would turn continuously whenever the motor was running actually drove other things in the device. But often times when this device is operating yes there was more than one motor. But that one would be triggered on and off but yet still be left running at times. But with each time it was energized. The second shaft on the stepping side of things. Would rotate a certain number degrees each time the motor was energized. Can't remember what that was out of! But rather unique mechanism for sure. By the way no separate solenoid for the stepper. The motor rotor was the Motive Power and the solenoid all-in-one! Probably one of the most clever AC Motors I've ever seen other some other weird ones in a reversible ones. Also I had one that was similar except it could be stepped in both directions. Reverse was a solenoid. And the same idea with the other except bi-directional stepping. Also I once built a doorbell for someone that was interested in pinball. Used more than one chime box and a suitably beefy Transformer. Also the doorbell did multiple doors on the same doorbell assembly and yes could play Westminster chimes. However that was not doorbell. Leave it to your imagination what it was and how it was displayed. Yep clock and doorbell in one Gadget. Also pretty much as far as possible salvaged pinball machine parts! And yes when it would synchronize. And also if the power was cycled. Or went off and came back on. Also this was intentional to indicate wrong time. The time display hours and minutes would be all zeros! Of course score reels four of them! The logic of course electromechanical. The outer box was part of an original signal system of some sort he happened to have the box that would work cutouts with the right size and shape and stuff. Even the original glass door was still intact. That probably at least whatever she was in that case probably came out of a hundred-year-old plus house probably like a maid call system. Or perhaps something that would indicate someone needing something in another room. He had heard something that this had been used in a multi residence place and if someone needed from the caretaker of the residence! But very much unknown for sure. Labeling was too far gone unfortunately pretty much unreadable on the little tags. Not like your typical maid or servant or Butler kind of thing very different. It was not just indicators it had other Hardware and was somehow combine of an old phone system or intercom. And also alarm system of some sort never had seen something like that previously. Seen other things along some of the functions but that is a new one for me! Obviously antique so old but you get the idea
Some of the Bally pinballs from the '50s and '60s were really sophisticated. Gottlieb made some machines in the mid-'60s which made '70s machines look simple. And then there were the tic-tac-toe machines Chicago Coin used to make...
I own this game and so needed this video. Played perfectly 15 or so years ago when I bought but has started being glitchy. I think this video and the others in the series will help me straighten it out. Thanks very much.
No problem Jack, keep in mind all the other Bally games from around this time period work the same way so those videos may have something in it too that could help…if you run into a problem email!
Good video. The best way I found to put EM games on free play is to place a jumper on the start button or wedge a small screwdriver in the contacts to hold the switch together. Then walk around to the back and take another screwdriver and short out the normally closed contacts one set at a time and one will start a game. Bend the small blade to the longer one so that a zero credits it never opens the circuit to the credit button. Simple and all the features still work
Nice video as always. I always learn something new. But here is a shoutout from your dear brother: You have to go down to Jefferson and help him with the old grocerystore. He can´t do everything by him self. Please! For all your fans!
I really enjoyed this video again. Thank you! looking forward to the play field and the mysteries it beholds :) another huge thumbs up for you (and Joe!) :)
I was going to jump up and say something about the credit pin, but then you went and looked in the book and talked about it. I should have known that you'd be thorough like you always are in your videos. I've also heard that that the synthetic grease is also "Dielectric"...I wonder where else I've heard that? Oh, probably one of your other videos! Get Joey to hammer that Credit Reel straight. It worked on that one coin door :)
"The colors are nowhere near as vivid on the camera as they are here in real life." And after the parade of sun-bleached backglasses that have been featured on this channel, this one is already like discovering real color for the first time, even after the camera's done with it. I don't think we've seen a glass with color this deep and full since you decided to get a reproduction glass for that Spider-Man table.
yup!!!!, I did play this one, after I got done working on it, I cheated a lot with the glass out. not really, I was verifying that everything was working before I put the glass back in!!!. I remember when I would open one up to work on it, I would always draw a crowd, and in many cases "THEY" would flat out "GET IN THE WAY". I was nice about it, I would say " I need to concentrate on this, I will answer any questions after I get this running again, I don't mind you watching, but I need the room to work". I know that jaws would drop when I would raise the playfield!!!.
I just watched what Donnie did to the floor. I see what he is saying. I am not sure if pouring cement over the floor will prevent future chipping underneath. I have seen a material that is not heavy like cement, it looks like SLIP and I have seen bathroom floors poured using it. It goes very fast. Much easier than cement. Not sure exactly what the product is called. I will see if I can find the video of it.
Looking forward to the Freedom video! I have one that keeps switching between players even when they're not coined up (start a one player game and it still goes to player 2, 3, 4). It also doesn't consistently go to the next ball when it drains (i.e. stays on ball 3 for several rounds). I cleaned the ball drain switch and the player and coin stepper units. I'm lost.
Great work thanks for sharing. I've played Knight rider before that's a classic. I would have a hard time letting go of some of those machines. Do you ever run across one that you just don't want to sell like do you have a favorite. Have a great weekend.
If you're fixing the gaps on the relays and if I had fat fingers. And wouldn't be able to bend or separate those contacts. What would be a better option as a tool.. Tweezers or curved hemostats. I'm thinking curved hemos. Cuz it's a better control to slightly bend them and slightly bend them out. Which hemostats have a better control of that.
You can purchase a tool made to adjust those contacts @ pbresource.com The tool, L shaped like an allen wrench, is round with very thin slots cut in the center on both ends.
Yes there's a special tool like Kevin mentioned that you're supposed to use to bend them. To be honest, I don't bend very many of them, 99% of them are in adjustment. It's a bad idea to adjust each switch, just the ones that are obviously not adjusted right.
And the nubs on the relay circuits. Are they made of copper or brass? I would assume copper just because it conducts electricity better than than gold or silver and cheeper. But not 100% sure on brass.
I believe they're copper usually, but some may be brass, usually they're copper colored but I have seen some that are brass colored, they may be some sort of plating though.
I like working on the EM's better I think, but mainly I just like working on games I haven't fixed or played before. So if it's a new title I haven't worked on I really enjoy fixing them and bringing it back to life. The EM's are more of a problem to fix, so it's more fun to figure out why they're doing what they're doing, the Solid States usually if there is a problem it's apparent why it's doing it (it's easy to figure out what's wrong so not as much fun)
Yes, in a perfect world you want the whole blade straight and bent back where it leaves the switch stack. So it comes out of the switch stack at an angle, and then goes in that angle all the way to the end (you don't want it bent in the middle).
@@LyonsArcade Awesome, thanks! I’m new to pinball machines and trying to diagnose a score motor that just keeps running. One of the score reels wouldn’t reset, so I took it apart and cleaned it. Still won’t really reset so I’m going to take a closer look at the switches
Hi Ron, just a couple of quick 'Theory of Operation' questions - - Although unneeded in this machine, am I correct in assuming that the Match Unit toggles/steps every time any player scores 10 points, or does it toggle once at the start of a game, and again at the start of a new game? - As you indicated, that back glass is in mint condition. As a general rule, would you clear-coat the back of it as a preventative measure, to keep it mint, or leave it as is? As always, it's a genuine pleasure to watch as you nurse these machines back to health. Thank you for bringing us along... :-)
They usually have the match unit move with every 10 points, theoretically if you knew that you could always win a free game if you kept playing a 1 player game after you matched... because the 10 reel and the 00-90 unit would be in sync.... If they're in nice shape I don't do anything to them... once I fix them they're more likely to stay in air conditioned storage wherever they go so less chance the glass gets damaged then there was in the past 40 years (which allowed the glass to stay Mint anyways!) Thanks for watching!
It really doesn't look that hard. The whole trick is learning how to go backwards. If you take something apart work backwards and put it together again. And remember where things go together backwards. And don't loose nuts and screws. And everything will go together nicely.
There’s something about the little pause as the score reels reset that just makes me grin. Click click click click click ... pause ... click click click click SHUNK. Love that.
Yeah there's this little anxiety part and then once they start again you kind of think "the crazy Bastard's gonna make it!" lol
Ron, that's a great backglass in great condition. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for watching!
Man , the mechanical complexity of these advanced one from the 70’s is amazing! I am amazed every time you open one up. And you say the bingo pinballs are even more complex? Wow!
I'm gonna do a Bingo one of these days just to show everybody, maybe I'll just open one up for you so you can see how crazy it is :)
@@LyonsArcade I was wondering if you had any videos on one of these or at least a video of at least open them up!
Might even be more subscribers!
New be more of them will give a thumbs up and hit subscribe at the the beginning of the video even before you say it!
As you say the video is going to be awesome anyways.
You've not let me down once!
But getting back to the pinball machines sort of!
But having to do with switch contacts in general.
One of the things people use for some contacts not necessarily a pinball but may not be recommended either!
An automotive Point file!
I have a feeling that the pinball machine contacts would be too delicate for this!
Have used in other situations where where contacts are in really bad shape and inside like thermostat contacts and other switch contacts especially line voltage.
Or heavy duty contacts!
Also I've heard using a a back of a matchbook the Striking surface!
Even part of a matchbook might be good for contact cleaning instead of like a business card but of course your mileage may vary either way!
And also I've seen in some cases saying specifically not to use a striking surface from a matchbook for burnishing contacts.
So-called Precision contacts!
AKA very delicate ones!
I've worked hard enough equipment that uses electromechanical relays motorized switching who knows what else anything like that would that would have contacts of any sort.
Also I've repurposed relays and other electromechanical assemblies in my own projects.
I'd get ahold of things are obsolete and repurpose assemblies and other gizmos and gadgets out of it.
One of my favorites it was a beefy shaded pole motor that had two shafts.
But one had a slip coupling that would allow the shaft to slide in and out but still be same length on that end connected to one part of the device.
The other end was attached to a gearbox in a few other gizmos inside don't know how to describe it did not dismantle it since I wanted to keep it intact.
Essentially it was a stepper at least on the one shaft.
1 shaft that would turn continuously whenever the motor was running actually drove other things in the device.
But often times when this device is operating yes there was more than one motor.
But that one would be triggered on and off but yet still be left running at times.
But with each time it was energized.
The second shaft on the stepping side of things.
Would rotate a certain number degrees each time the motor was energized.
Can't remember what that was out of!
But rather unique mechanism for sure.
By the way no separate solenoid for the stepper.
The motor rotor was the Motive Power and the solenoid all-in-one!
Probably one of the most clever AC Motors I've ever seen other some other weird ones in a reversible ones.
Also I had one that was similar except it could be stepped in both directions.
Reverse was a solenoid.
And the same idea with the other except bi-directional stepping.
Also I once built a doorbell for someone that was interested in pinball.
Used more than one chime box and a suitably beefy Transformer.
Also the doorbell did multiple doors on the same doorbell assembly and yes could play Westminster chimes.
However that was not doorbell.
Leave it to your imagination what it was and how it was displayed.
Yep clock and doorbell in one Gadget.
Also pretty much as far as possible salvaged pinball machine parts!
And yes when it would synchronize.
And also if the power was cycled.
Or went off and came back on.
Also this was intentional to indicate wrong time.
The time display hours and minutes would be all zeros!
Of course score reels four of them!
The logic of course electromechanical.
The outer box was part of an original signal system of some sort he happened to have the box that would work cutouts with the right size and shape and stuff.
Even the original glass door was still intact.
That probably at least whatever she was in that case probably came out of a hundred-year-old plus house probably like a maid call system.
Or perhaps something that would indicate someone needing something in another room.
He had heard something that this had been used in a multi residence place and if someone needed from the caretaker of the residence!
But very much unknown for sure.
Labeling was too far gone unfortunately pretty much unreadable on the little tags.
Not like your typical maid or servant or Butler kind of thing very different.
It was not just indicators it had other Hardware and was somehow combine of an old phone system or intercom.
And also alarm system of some sort never had seen something like that previously.
Seen other things along some of the functions but that is a new one for me!
Obviously antique so old but you get the idea
Some of the Bally pinballs from the '50s and '60s were really sophisticated. Gottlieb made some machines in the mid-'60s which made '70s machines look simple. And then there were the tic-tac-toe machines Chicago Coin used to make...
Finally. I get to see a detailed look at the score reels. Thank you.
Thanks for watching Marshall!
Back glass looks fantastic
I own this game and so needed this video. Played perfectly 15 or so years ago when I bought but has started being glitchy. I think this video and the others in the series will help me straighten it out. Thanks very much.
No problem Jack, keep in mind all the other Bally games from around this time period work the same way so those videos may have something in it too that could help…if you run into a problem email!
Thank you for these videos. I wish I had more thumbs up to give.
The EM games are really cool!
Thanks for watching Reuben!
Good video. The best way I found to put EM games on free play is to place a jumper on the start button or wedge a small screwdriver in the contacts to hold the switch together. Then walk around to the back and take another screwdriver and short out the normally closed contacts one set at a time and one will start a game. Bend the small blade to the longer one so that a zero credits it never opens the circuit to the credit button. Simple and all the features still work
Nice video as always. I always learn something new. But here is a shoutout from your dear brother: You have to go down to Jefferson and help him with the old grocerystore. He can´t do everything by him self. Please! For all your fans!
Hahaha o.k. i'll think about it
There is 1 online pdf that shows where to start and what to check on EM'S. Great guide to read.
I really enjoyed this video again. Thank you! looking forward to the play field and the mysteries it beholds :) another huge thumbs up for you (and Joe!) :)
I was going to jump up and say something about the credit pin, but then you went and looked in the book and talked about it. I should have known that you'd be thorough like you always are in your videos. I've also heard that that the synthetic grease is also "Dielectric"...I wonder where else I've heard that? Oh, probably one of your other videos! Get Joey to hammer that Credit Reel straight. It worked on that one coin door :)
Thank you sir! Fine job as always. Almost looks like you know what you are doing!
🙄😏😝👍👍👍
I try!
@@LyonsArcade you make it look easy my friend. Understandable and enjoyable.
"The colors are nowhere near as vivid on the camera as they are here in real life."
And after the parade of sun-bleached backglasses that have been featured on this channel, this one is already like discovering real color for the first time, even after the camera's done with it. I don't think we've seen a glass with color this deep and full since you decided to get a reproduction glass for that Spider-Man table.
Yeah all I can say is here in person it looks brand new, all the colors are perfect and bright!
Great work again😎
Thanks Danijel!
yup!!!!, I did play this one, after I got done working on it, I cheated a lot with the glass out. not really, I was verifying that everything was working before I put the glass back in!!!. I remember when I would open one up to work on it, I would always draw a crowd, and in many cases "THEY" would flat out "GET IN THE WAY". I was nice about it, I would say " I need to concentrate on this, I will answer any questions after I get this running again, I don't mind you watching, but I need the room to work". I know that jaws would drop when I would raise the playfield!!!.
already noticed the credit pinholes at 8:23
You're paying attention!
Im not getting Notifys from Joes classic video games, any longer.. strange. Hey dud you chance someting?.
I haven't, did you click the bell by the videos? I think they stop sending notifications for each video unless you ring the bell :)
Can led's work on classic em machines?
Yes, they can. You may have to get certain ones but I've seen plenty of EM's with LEDs in them.
Another nice job so far ron :)
Thanks MegaSpamBox!
I just watched what Donnie did to the floor.
I see what he is saying.
I am not sure if pouring cement over the floor will prevent future chipping underneath.
I have seen a material that is not heavy like cement, it looks like SLIP
and I have seen bathroom floors poured using it.
It goes very fast. Much easier than cement.
Not sure exactly what the product is called.
I will see if I can find the video of it.
What do you record your videos with?
An old Panasonic 1080 camera
Looking forward to the Freedom video! I have one that keeps switching between players even when they're not coined up (start a one player game and it still goes to player 2, 3, 4). It also doesn't consistently go to the next ball when it drains (i.e. stays on ball 3 for several rounds). I cleaned the ball drain switch and the player and coin stepper units. I'm lost.
Great work thanks for sharing. I've played Knight rider before that's a classic. I would have a hard time letting go of some of those machines. Do you ever run across one that you just don't want to sell like do you have a favorite. Have a great weekend.
If you're fixing the gaps on the relays and if I had fat fingers.
And wouldn't be able to bend or separate those contacts.
What would be a better option as a tool..
Tweezers or curved hemostats.
I'm thinking curved hemos.
Cuz it's a better control to slightly bend them and slightly bend them out. Which hemostats have a better control of that.
You can purchase a tool made to adjust those contacts @ pbresource.com The tool, L shaped like an allen wrench, is round with very thin slots cut in the center on both ends.
Yes there's a special tool like Kevin mentioned that you're supposed to use to bend them. To be honest, I don't bend very many of them, 99% of them are in adjustment. It's a bad idea to adjust each switch, just the ones that are obviously not adjusted right.
@@LyonsArcade I use my fingers too, when I can easily reach them. 😎
1:18 "And don't call me Shirley"
Auuu stop being such a blue meanie
And the nubs on the relay circuits.
Are they made of copper or brass?
I would assume copper just because it conducts electricity better than than gold or silver and cheeper.
But not 100% sure on brass.
I believe they're copper usually, but some may be brass, usually they're copper colored but I have seen some that are brass colored, they may be some sort of plating though.
Great work and great video as usual! Do you enjoy working on EMs or Solid states more? Or are they all the same amount of problem solving fun?
I like working on the EM's better I think, but mainly I just like working on games I haven't fixed or played before. So if it's a new title I haven't worked on I really enjoy fixing them and bringing it back to life. The EM's are more of a problem to fix, so it's more fun to figure out why they're doing what they're doing, the Solid States usually if there is a problem it's apparent why it's doing it (it's easy to figure out what's wrong so not as much fun)
@@LyonsArcade and at least with EMS you don’t have to worry about battery leakage 😂
Ronnie, Donnie says he needs some help in Jefferson. Just sayin’.
Well I guess I'm going to have to go back down there then
If a switch on a score reel needs adjusted, do you literally just bend it so it makes/breaks contact with the other side when actuated? Thanks!
Yes, in a perfect world you want the whole blade straight and bent back where it leaves the switch stack. So it comes out of the switch stack at an angle, and then goes in that angle all the way to the end (you don't want it bent in the middle).
@@LyonsArcade Awesome, thanks! I’m new to pinball machines and trying to diagnose a score motor that just keeps running. One of the score reels wouldn’t reset, so I took it apart and cleaned it. Still won’t really reset so I’m going to take a closer look at the switches
Relay Roulettte...
👍 🇺🇸
Thanks Six Toes!
Hi Ron, just a couple of quick 'Theory of Operation' questions -
- Although unneeded in this machine, am I correct in assuming that the Match Unit toggles/steps every time any player scores 10 points, or does it toggle once at the start of a game, and again at the start of a new game?
- As you indicated, that back glass is in mint condition. As a general rule, would you clear-coat the back of it as a preventative measure, to keep it mint, or leave it as is?
As always, it's a genuine pleasure to watch as you nurse these machines back to health. Thank you for bringing us along... :-)
They usually have the match unit move with every 10 points, theoretically if you knew that you could always win a free game if you kept playing a 1 player game after you matched... because the 10 reel and the 00-90 unit would be in sync....
If they're in nice shape I don't do anything to them... once I fix them they're more likely to stay in air conditioned storage wherever they go so less chance the glass gets damaged then there was in the past 40 years (which allowed the glass to stay Mint anyways!)
Thanks for watching!
It really doesn't look that hard.
The whole trick is learning how to go backwards.
If you take something apart work backwards and put it together again.
And remember where things go together backwards.
And don't loose nuts and screws.
And everything will go together nicely.
It's not that hard like you said, just take it easy and put it back how they made it, if everything's adjusted and clean it'll work pretty much!