Worked out great. We used your wiring video to bypass the clutch pedal and hook up the reverse lights. Much easier than other sources to understand and I had my son and his 3 friends watch it to come up to speed. Sometimes simple problems just need a simple explanation. Thanks again.
Great videos M3NACE! You definitely have tutoring skills and you know how to place cameras for right shots! That's how I understand Clutch Switch operation: 1. Both Manual and Auto cars need to know when it is safe to start the engine. They do so by checking if that circuit is closed or not. Circuit closed = safe to start. Circuit open = NOT safe. 2. Safe start positions for automatic are [P]ark and [N]eutral. For cars with manual tranny the condition is that the clutch pedal must be depressed no matter if it's in gear or neutral. We have switches in both auto and manual cars. Manuals have it beside the pedal (closes the circuit when pedal depressed) and autos have it inside the shifter assembly (closes the circuit when in [P] or [N]). 3. After the swap you remove the auto shifter assembly along with the switch and so you need a way to tell the car: hey, it's safe to start the engine! That's when some DIY-ers prefer to just jump wire the pins and leave the circuit permanently closed, while others do it the right way with the clutch switch. Why jump wiring the pins messes up you cruise control: Coincidentally, both Auto and Manual cars use exactly the same circuit when they need to override cruise control and disable it for safety and operational reasons. Basically when the circuit is CLOSED, the cruise control is overriden and is shut down. As explained above this occurs when automatic cars are in [P] and [N] or when you depress the clutch pedal in a manual car. Now those DIY-ers who decided to take a shortcut and jump wire the pins and leave the circuit permanently in a closed state (to let the car know that hey, it is safe to start), have also let the car know that "hey, it is NOT safe to have cruise control enabled, override and shut it down". Hope this helps.
So by jump wiring ,the cruise control is disabled and car still can be started without pushing clutch in ? But with the switch the clutch must be engaged to start vehicle ? And use crusie control possible ?
My swap was successful. I actually didnt even have to come back to these videos because I ended up watching them all 2 or three times a piece before starting. Thanks for the awesome videos!!
Excellent tutorial and I agree with Erik Engstrom. My only comment is the break light switch is self adjusting, so he didn't need to glue spacers on the end of the switch. He needed to just pull the white plunger out further, it sticks out almost an inch, install the switch, then use the clutch. The clutch will then press againts the plunger to adjust. It's an eligant design. Great video!!
ahh 2 years later after doing the swap I find myself back on here trying to figure out which pins go to what because my reverse light cable decided to fall apart. Making a new one and this time I'm ziptying to the chassis and running much better cable management and soldering instead of crimping. Cheers from 2020, my comments from 2018 are still probably on this series :) Let me know how things are going for you, how the cars are, etc. Haven't talked in probably 2 years and I'd love to hear what e36 things you've been up to!
@@M3NACE not yet! I'm gonna watch them if I get the time! I'm waiting on the driveshaft of my e36 to get done at the shop--I had it rebuilt for the manual swap and the car sat while I was at college. Came back, and after some driving the u joints shattered on an 1100 mile old driveshaft, so they're taking care of that one for me. I'm going around replacing all the rubber in my car. My ball joints are severely ruining my toe and inner tire tread is cupping and wearing like trash. If you've got any ball joint replacement tips, I'll be happy to hear them--not many people replace these ball joints on these cars. For that reason, I'll be filming our process and see what's going to happen.
@@MCatwar you are refering to the trailing arm ball joints? we are about to replace those on the drift car, and i have done all 4 on my sedan. they are somewhere on the channel
@@M3NACE oh I'm talking about front LCA ball joints. I've got some terrible tire wear because of it and there's lots of play. I've done normal front lower ball joints, but these ones have this special clip on them, preventing them from being pressed out. I think I'm going to take an angle grinder to it and then do them like normal. The inner ones are a bit scary because I don't know how those will work out. We're putting these: www.ecstuning.com/b-meyle-hd-parts/heavy-duty-front-outer-ball-joint-priced-each/31126758510~my/# in place of these: www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-parts/front-outer-ball-joint-priced-each/31126758510~feb/ Actually, it turns out that 1995 M3s actually are compatible with e30 arms, which have much friendlier ball joints than the >95 models. Unfortunately I have a 99. And I'm kinda upset with how much inner cupping on my front tires I've got. I've only had em since June and have 1100 miles on them hahaaha
Great job! The only thing I’d do differently is to salvage the connector from the auto shifter and reduce the number of solder connections. Unless the connector is impossible to remove.
Mitchell Birch the connector is solid mounted to the circut board on the shift assembly if I recall correctly, but re-using the connection would be pretty trick.
M3NACE yeah after seeing the other video, it looks like it would have been 10/10 difficult to remove without breaking but the payoff would be awesome. It would be near impossible to tell it wasn’t oem.
Brake switch, just like clutch switch is ADJUSTABLE. Pull up on the white plastic nail head to extend it all the way out, mount the switch in the car, and a pedal pressure will push the pin back to the perfect position.
My first handycap is understand you bro,I'm Catalan and my english its basic,no understand all fuck I'm sad,but thank you so much for sharing your information,its very important,best wishes.
thanks! mine did not, im not sure why. i might have been wrong in my theory, but I think something else is wrong within the car. I used to be able to start the car in reverse and drive, and when I replaced the neutral saftey switch in the autotrans, it still was able to start in drive. I have a feeling it is linked to that, im not sure. im not that dedicated to getting cruze control working though lol
M3NACE Ok, I just got most everything I need, for the swap. Its my daily tho as well, and I need it to get me up to school! I did the 2.5 hour drive once in my bronco without cruise, and that sucked.
Hello how would I Flash the DME on 1998 E36 M3. Just completing the transmission swap from auto to manual. How do I clear codes on OBD2 car. I don’t see this covered in your videos. Thank you great info on these videos never watched any thing like yours, please keep them going , Steve
I will be doing a standalone video on how i get rid of my check engine light, but i have gone over the techinques in my swap prep series. but there are many ways to get over the hurdle. ill throw you a few, but they have pros and cons. 1: get a manual DME, but you will need to re-sync the EWS system to the new DME which requires a dealer to do it. 2: have someone re-flash your dme with a manual tune, this requires someone with tools and knowledge on re-flashing 3: send your dme out to get re-flashed, but this will imobilize your car until you get it back. 4: buy a auto or manual DME and send it out to get it converted to manual if its auto, and get the EWS system bypassed, this is one of the quicker ways, because when you get the DME back you just pop your old out and pop in the new, but this can be the most expensive due to the cost of a dme and the cost of the tune for it. I have also heard of people re-flashing it themselves with BMW's INPA system, and I might try and do it myself, but I dont think it would be the quickest way to get it dealt with. I have also heard of people purchasing N/A Tunes for a manual car, and having the tune basically convert the DME to manual while tuning the car. the last two I havent talked to anyone who has done them but Im sure they can be done. best of luck.
@@M3NACE Hey Menace, a question with the DME, If I was able to get the manual DME with the manual wiring harness, you mentioned that I will still have to resync the EWS system to the new DME at the dealership. Will I still need to reflash my DME for the manual tune? Also, will resplicing the reverse light still apply with the manual wiring harness? Hope these questions made sense.
@@maxuelcabasag7833 you will need to get the EWS aligned if you replace the ECU. You can either throw a manual tune on your factory ECU, it will not require EWS reflash, or replace with a manual ECU and reflash the ews. A manual engine harness will only delete the auto trans plug, the body harness is still automatic and will still need to be wired for reverse.
Hi I did the swap from following what you did and everything is fine apart from my ignition won't give me the key back so it's stuck in there. Any ideas what to do?
good question lol, the only thing that I could think of is that little cable that disconnected from the auto trans shift harness. I would find that cable, it should be sitting around or next to the shifter under the console, and push the cable back into its little harness and see if it will give you the key back.
awesome detail man really appreciated. Might sound stupid but is the reverse light switch you wire in optional? Before the switch you wired the harness from the trans to the two pins on the black connector and it worked after selecting reverse. Is the switch only there if you want to put the lights on without engaging reverse?
well it is required to have them wired in, but the car will still work if you donr wire the reverse lights lol, the switch is there to engage the reverse lights when the shifter is in reverse. the switch is controlled by the trans.
Hi Many, many thx for these awesome videos. CompleTed my swap to a E46 M3 six speed and that is the bomb, super happy with that choice. Gearing works perfectly and did not have ro replace the driveshaft. In fact I just took off the front section for the swap. Just one problem remains. How to get rid if the cog light?
Awesome man! To get rid of the light just pull the cluster and remove the bulb. Thats how its done on E36's, im not sure it the procedure is the same on e46's though.
Hi, hope you will still see this. Great video! Got a question about the part where you are jumping the wires without a clutch switch, is jumping pin 5 and pin 7 the same for a harness of a ssg/smg gearbox? My clutch pedal didn’t come with a clutch safety switch so i have to find out how to do it myself but there are not alot of in depth videos from ssg to manual and how to wire it. Hope you can help me out!
Use a test light or ohm meter and ensure that there is not a broken wire. Or you can look up the resistance and bench test the sensor new vs old to be sure the sensor is good. Lastly, if the sensor is not indexed correctly it won't work. Meaning that the sensor has to be oriented....google indexing cam sensor or throttle position sensor. Same idea. Good luck man.
Well I've occured some problems with reverse light switch harness. It was cutted of at the beginning of the engine harness and i can't find out where it goes originally. I've tried to go over and cutted the Blue/Yellow wire at X20 pin but when i put anything that can go for V+ to it just short circut and engine stops. Any help where i can put Voltage wire? It was a m43b16 swap to m42b18. Any help appreciated!
Anyone know the neutral switch for obd1 cars 5 and 7 start my car but it is the reverse gear idk why but my lights come on because I don’t know exactly which wires are to start
22:38 this part with the clutch switch you are wiring up has me confused. I'm manual swapping. Im also motor swapping, and using the harness from a manual car. Do i still need to hook up that clutch switch at all? The new motor with manual trans starts with just jumping the pins. Clutch lines arent even hooked up. Can't i just solder the wires together in the exact same way you did with the brake switch wires? I dont have cruise control and wont be getting that.
I've just done my swap but i did my engine and manual swap from my other shell. My shell is auto is the reverse lights wiring the same even tho the main engine harness is now a manual one?
what do the other wires left in the automatic harness do? also, did the cruise control work? also, when the clutch is in, it starts. after started when the clutch is out, will the clutch switch cut the electrical connection causing problems? can you still use a clutch switch instead of another brake switch?
the remainder of the wires are for lighting, and for telling the transmission what gear / mods you are in. lights, reverse, drive neutral, 4, 3, 2, sport mode, ext. my cruise control did not work after this, but it did not work before the swap, i suspect was something within the cruise control motor itself. that whole system has since been deleted from the car lol. use a brake switch instead of a clutch switch, they flow electricity differently.
M3NACE thank you so much for your videos dude, I’m half way through my swap and only started last week. Without your diy I would be pretty lost and it would probably take triple the time. Thank you so much, god bless!
Ill be doin this swap pretty soon and im curious. Instead of having to do all the wiring, wouldnt i be able to use the transmission wiring from my donor car? id have to cut it right?
Hey M3nace, I ran into a little issue on the clutch switch part. For some reason my car starts with the clutch switch engaged instead of disengaged as you show in the video. Ps I'm using an actual e36 clutch switch instead of a brake switch. Not sure if that could be why.
Yoo vids are fire mate! Im going to do a m52b28 swap on my manual e30. The m52 is from automatic e39, and will be paired with e36 manual gearbox. Since the ecu is automatic and the rest is from manual cars, i assume i only need to replace starter, take out transmission chip from ecu, and do no clutch switch wiring. Is that it? or do i miss something?
since you are swapping it into an E30, I think there is alot more that needs to be done as far as wiring goes. is your motor a TU? as in double vanos? I would think you would want to get the ECU converted to a manual tune with an EWS delete to start. the starter should be one from a E36, that fits the gearbox. as far as the starters go, the manual and the automatic cars are the same. I would email the guys at kasselperformance, www.kasselperformance.com/ they do alot of OE DME modifications, and even some wiring harness work. im sure they will be able to help you out and point you in the right direction, just tell em' I sent you:)
Nope, it isnt the TU version. If i use stand alone ecu would it be easier for me as i dont need to do the ews delete and stuffs? Gonna email kasselperformace soon thanks for that!
standalones get expensive quick. if thats the way you want to run, go for it. I would think it would be easier and quicker to reflash an EWS delete the factory DME lol
Hi Quinn- I got the connector, wiring leads and a connector cover (along with the associated BMW part #'s) and can send them to you with a picture of each of the parts and the part # if you want to somehow post them to this video for the reference of your viewers. Tried pasting the picture in this post and it wouldn't let me....Let me know. Pete
completion of the series. I want this to sort of be the end-all for the manual conversion, the complete package. some people might want to run a clutch switch, some dont. for those who do, they dont have to search for instructions on how to do it, so its all here.
I am going to be using these videos to do my 5 speed swap in a couple weeks. I have to ask how come you didnt use a clutch pedal switch? Was there a reason to using the brake pedal switch?
so E36's didnt come with clutch saftey switches. the late models, I believe 98 and 99 had them, but the rest didnt. the clutch switch in the earlier models are only for disengaging the cruze control, so they are different in principal and how the switches work. with the clutch switch, it will allow current to flow when the button is pressed. so if you wire the clutch switch using the actuall clutch switch, you will only be able to start the car with the clutch out, as in not pressed in, because the button would not be pressed if you have the clutch pushed in, so current will not flow. the brake pedal switch is the opposite, it only allows current to flow when the button is not pressed. so, if the clutch is out, the button will be pressed and not allow the car to start. when you push the clutch in, the button will be out and allow current to flow, allowing you to start the car with the clutch in. make sense? good question.
M3NACE makes perfect sense! I was planning on using the clutch switch but was not aware of that. Thanks for the heads up! I have a few brake switches so I dont need to find another.👍
brake switches are easy to come by, but you need the other end of the harness to properly splice te wires in. they are easy to find at a pick a part and usually they will give it to you for free because its so small and doesnt fit into a part catagory. ye feel?
Hallo Would an e46 transmission fit on the e36 m50? I searched and came up with nothing.I might have an extra 5 speed from an e46 come up, and I m planning on doing a 5 speed swap.Can I use the transmission from the e46 and install it in the e36? I dont know if it will fit the block or the tunnel, can anyone confirm?
I couldnt find a part number for it, but I went to the parts department at a local BMW dealership and asked them for the female connector for the reverse light wire and they gave me that connector and the 2 wires.
good luck man! if you can try and score a part number for them. they wouldnt give it to me, although im sure the guy where I got it from just was too lazy to find it or didnt know where.
Hey buddy, did you happen to get the part numbers for the connector and the wires that are needed to do the reverse light? I am doing a swap and need them. If not, I will try to go the route Quinn did and just ask the BMW parts counter guy... Thanks.
after you pull the chip and complete the wiring, on OBD1 cars no. OBD2 cars yes, you will get P0600 and will need to run a reflash for a manual tune or a manual DME. I have a video covering the multiple ways you can go about fixing it, I recommend kassel performance as they have an awesome DME exchange program that is plug and play to rid the code, just tell them I sent you and get the EWS delete. their performance tunes are also great and at a excellent price.
@@3DGEM3 i cam only imagine they would if they were following your exact orders as a customer butni think thats all on us to do our research as i am now thanks to quinn i can clearly see that doing the homework makes it all come to together he said 3days it took him thats not bad and hella cheaper than a shop oh gosh i dont wanna know the amount if u wasnt supply the parts to a shop mechanic
engine and manual swap into an auto. Donor engine, harness and cpu used, came from same car(1997). tranny wasn't original to the same donor. it was from a 92. yet clutch pedal does have a switch. the internet is yelling "that's for cruise control if its from b4 97". so would the automatic(which is what my car was up until this cluster fug) neutral safety shit still prevent my car from cranking?
Yes. The safety switch setup is in the Body harness, not the engine harness/ECU setup. if you are using an auto chassis harness, you will need to bypass
@@M3NACE god bless ur speed. by chance do you know if I need to worry about the ews? I guess it's the car security. maybe non applicable to what you've done since it looks to be an ecu/engine swap issue.
@@575gtcFerrari EWS issue possible? The BCM probably wont be EWS but if the DME is it might be doing weird stuff. Usually EWS issues will be crank/no start concern. Try the wiring pin jump trick and see what it does - if not start checking wiring, starting with the starter relay
Hey man, I did the swap and jumped pin 5 and 7, pulled the trans pin thing out of the computer, and the car cranks but has no fuel or spark? Any ideas what I didn’t get right? Or what could be causing this since the swap
So im swapping my 325is(manual already) with a 325i engine with harness and everything besides the trans, would it be easier to use the 325is ECU or do I have to use the 325i ECU?
Use your stock ECU, unless its a red label it will need to be programmed, but the ECU's are the same, motors the same. No difference between i and iS cars.
Hey man I finally got around to doing the manual swap ,but When I went to crank the car for the first time it wouldn’t start. My first thought was the starter because It was oem .i replaced it with a starter I knew was working and still nothing ,I can hear it trying to start but it just won’t catch.After that I noticed that the check engine light wouldn’t turn on when turning the key to prime the car ,someone told me I needed a dme with a ews delete so I bought a dme with the delete and the check engine light turns on now but I still have the same problem where it won’t start .i was hoping you had some knowledge on this or if you could give me some ideas the next thing I was going to try was to check if all the grounds and redo the wiring [i did not wire a clutch switch I did the bypass So yea that’s the situation I’m in I would appreciate the second opinion! Thanks 🙏🏾
Not tryina he a headache buuuut, I followed allllll your steps, but nothing works. Only thing that works is when you tested the brake lights before cutting the wires. Car wont start. Lights Still come on, but in not gettin a crank or anything.
i wonder if my cuzin wired this wrong that’s why my car has a lot of trouble turning over to the point that at times the battery completely dies from me trying to turn it over
no switch for the clutch and no reverse light wire all i knew is i plugged in that auto shifter and the car start when we was done with the swap then he cut some wires wired them up and now the car has hella problems to start and yes we got a new starter but it was from an auto but wierd thing is the manual starter and the auto started had the same part number
is it possible to wire the wrong 2 cables but for the car to still start cuz maybe he did the wrong 5 pin and 7 pin what if he did like 4 pin and 7 pin lol
I dont know man, I would back probe it and see that the waveform looks like but that requires a labscope. I have never worked on a Ranger before so I dont know the ins and outs of that car, I work mainly on E36's. I would start a thread on a ranger forum and ask, or go talk to a ford technician or someone who regularly works on those.
Love your videos but the only mechanic I’ve ever heard called things him guys and other things male oriented things Lmaoo it’s a little weird try using female pronouns it’s a lil less weird 😂
Not tryina he a headache buuuut, I followed allllll your steps, but nothing works. Only thing that works is when you tested the brake lights before cutting the wires. Car wont start. Lights Still come on, but in not gettin a crank or anything.
@@M3NACE did everything like you did. The first time I opted to start the car without the clutch but I've only seen videos of people using the switch. I've even followed this guy to see if goin with the switch works. th-cam.com/video/DbTuZlcsT7M/w-d-xo.html. The DME he pulled the chip from is the same one I told you that was different on my car. I even pulled the chip in the one he pulled from, putting chips back in and pulling the other. It's been musical chairs with trying to find solutions. Right now I spliced the two biggest wires that are on that EWS box, green/blk, yellow/black, thats behind the glove box, and now the car cranks unlike before. Now I gotta get to the starting part. Progress right? Lol
Wiring Crash Course: 1:38
Tools: 7:36
Reverse Light Harness Prep: 10:37
Reverse Light Harness Install: 14:52
Clutch Switch Harness Prep: 22:32
Clutch Switch Harness Install: 31:26
No Clutch Switch Wiring Procedure: 35:59
This Edit was a F@$#&*! Nightmare. Enjoy.
I've been in high tech for 30+ years and this video is one of the clearest instructional videos I've seen ANYWHERE. Hat off to you guys!
if my pinned comment wasnt used as a reference for the video, this would be the pinned comment. thank you man!
You're welcome. Your work is helping us right now!
awesome man! hope it all works out perfect!
Worked out great. We used your wiring video to bypass the clutch pedal and hook up the reverse lights. Much easier than other sources to understand and I had my son and his 3 friends watch it to come up to speed. Sometimes simple problems just need a simple explanation. Thanks again.
Great videos M3NACE! You definitely have tutoring skills and you know how to place cameras for right shots!
That's how I understand Clutch Switch operation:
1. Both Manual and Auto cars need to know when it is safe to start the engine. They do so by checking if that circuit is closed or not. Circuit closed = safe to start. Circuit open = NOT safe.
2. Safe start positions for automatic are [P]ark and [N]eutral. For cars with manual tranny the condition is that the clutch pedal must be depressed no matter if it's in gear or neutral. We have switches in both auto and manual cars. Manuals have it beside the pedal (closes the circuit when pedal depressed) and autos have it inside the shifter assembly (closes the circuit when in [P] or [N]).
3. After the swap you remove the auto shifter assembly along with the switch and so you need a way to tell the car: hey, it's safe to start the engine! That's when some DIY-ers prefer to just jump wire the pins and leave the circuit permanently closed, while others do it the right way with the clutch switch.
Why jump wiring the pins messes up you cruise control:
Coincidentally, both Auto and Manual cars use exactly the same circuit when they need to override cruise control and disable it for safety and operational reasons. Basically when the circuit is CLOSED, the cruise control is overriden and is shut down. As explained above this occurs when automatic cars are in [P] and [N] or when you depress the clutch pedal in a manual car.
Now those DIY-ers who decided to take a shortcut and jump wire the pins and leave the circuit permanently in a closed state (to let the car know that hey, it is safe to start), have also let the car know that "hey, it is NOT safe to have cruise control enabled, override and shut it down".
Hope this helps.
So by jump wiring ,the cruise control is disabled and car still can be started without pushing clutch in ? But with the switch the clutch must be engaged to start vehicle ? And use crusie control possible ?
My swap was successful. I actually didnt even have to come back to these videos because I ended up watching them all 2 or three times a piece before starting. Thanks for the awesome videos!!
awesome man! good to hear. enjoy your newly converted Manual E36! they are so much better with a stick.
That they are! My car doesn't feel slower then a Honda civic anymore 😂
lmao true
pin #2 and #3 works for obd1 backup light as well. thanks for all your knowledge!!! my swap is finally complete!!
Wow, no wonder you were not enjoying this edit. Was not expecting 38 minutes of information. Great job!
brutal man lmao this one took so long haha
A new vid at 10pm? BRO your on fire with them vids. I'm okay with this. XD
this one took way longer than I had planned lol
Bless you for all of this
what about the reverse light wire that was already in the auto car, can i just use that one? ( also do u know where that wire goes?)
You have saved my butt with all of these videos! Thank you. Doing the swap as we speak!
Sweet man awesome! Good luck!
Excellent tutorial and I agree with Erik Engstrom. My only comment is the break light switch is self adjusting, so he didn't need to glue spacers on the end of the switch. He needed to just pull the white plunger out further, it sticks out almost an inch, install the switch, then use the clutch. The clutch will then press againts the plunger to adjust. It's an eligant design. Great video!!
Ok thank for getting back to me buddy 😊👍
Thank you a ton for the vids man. Underrated. Almost complete on my swap, just waiting on weather to be on my side for once :D
Of course man! Best of luck completing your project.
Thank you so much for the videos. Especially this one. I wasnt looking forward to the wiring but it shouldnt be a problem after watching this.
Honestly thank you so much for making this
ahh 2 years later after doing the swap I find myself back on here trying to figure out which pins go to what because my reverse light cable decided to fall apart. Making a new one and this time I'm ziptying to the chassis and running much better cable management and soldering instead of crimping. Cheers from 2020, my comments from 2018 are still probably on this series :)
Let me know how things are going for you, how the cars are, etc. Haven't talked in probably 2 years and I'd love to hear what e36 things you've been up to!
hey man! cars have been great, just stacking cash. have you checked out our drift build or any of our driving yet?
@@M3NACE not yet! I'm gonna watch them if I get the time! I'm waiting on the driveshaft of my e36 to get done at the shop--I had it rebuilt for the manual swap and the car sat while I was at college. Came back, and after some driving the u joints shattered on an 1100 mile old driveshaft, so they're taking care of that one for me. I'm going around replacing all the rubber in my car. My ball joints are severely ruining my toe and inner tire tread is cupping and wearing like trash. If you've got any ball joint replacement tips, I'll be happy to hear them--not many people replace these ball joints on these cars. For that reason, I'll be filming our process and see what's going to happen.
@@MCatwar you are refering to the trailing arm ball joints? we are about to replace those on the drift car, and i have done all 4 on my sedan. they are somewhere on the channel
@@M3NACE oh I'm talking about front LCA ball joints. I've got some terrible tire wear because of it and there's lots of play. I've done normal front lower ball joints, but these ones have this special clip on them, preventing them from being pressed out. I think I'm going to take an angle grinder to it and then do them like normal. The inner ones are a bit scary because I don't know how those will work out.
We're putting these: www.ecstuning.com/b-meyle-hd-parts/heavy-duty-front-outer-ball-joint-priced-each/31126758510~my/#
in place of these: www.ecstuning.com/b-febi-parts/front-outer-ball-joint-priced-each/31126758510~feb/
Actually, it turns out that 1995 M3s actually are compatible with e30 arms, which have much friendlier ball joints than the >95 models. Unfortunately I have a 99. And I'm kinda upset with how much inner cupping on my front tires I've got. I've only had em since June and have 1100 miles on them hahaaha
@@MCatwar i havent changed those out yet, but i will at some point on mine. they dont have play but the boots are torn pretty good.
Thank you my brother for this video,
especially for the party 14:52 , thank's for sharing
Good work on a tedious task.....man getting in it deep
Great job! The only thing I’d do differently is to salvage the connector from the auto shifter and reduce the number of solder connections. Unless the connector is impossible to remove.
Mitchell Birch the connector is solid mounted to the circut board on the shift assembly if I recall correctly, but re-using the connection would be pretty trick.
M3NACE yeah after seeing the other video, it looks like it would have been 10/10 difficult to remove without breaking but the payoff would be awesome. It would be near impossible to tell it wasn’t oem.
Mitchell Birch yeah true that, you could do a manual harness conversion but Its only 4 wires and I dont think it would be worth the time and effort.
M3NACE yeah. It’s probably more work than it’s worth. And what you did was basically free.
heat shrink is the best. i don't recommend electrical tape because when heat will make electrical tape come apart.
Brake switch, just like clutch switch is ADJUSTABLE. Pull up on the white plastic nail head to extend it all the way out, mount the switch in the car, and a pedal pressure will push the pin back to the perfect position.
This was well done. Thank you
Thank you!
That was the BEST VIDEO!!!
Help me, the yellow light (think its for fault of the auto trans) how can i turn her off?
You need to remove the bulb from the cluster - manual cars do not have a bulb.
@@M3NACE you mean the light?
@@M3NACE and the cruise control??
How can i keep it working, mine stoped
Mine is a 325i m50
@@arthurugms did you wire in a clutch switch?
My first handycap is understand you bro,I'm Catalan and my english its basic,no understand all fuck I'm sad,but thank you so much for sharing your information,its very important,best wishes.
sorry to hear that brotha!
My car cranks but won’t actually start :/ did I do something wrong it would start before :/
If I don't care for cruise control/ was going to delete it how would I wire this switch in?
the same way, if you dont want to run a clutch switch you dont have to, just jump the wires.
Nice vid yo!!
Did the cruise control work like you thought it would?
thanks! mine did not, im not sure why. i might have been wrong in my theory, but I think something else is wrong within the car. I used to be able to start the car in reverse and drive, and when I replaced the neutral saftey switch in the autotrans, it still was able to start in drive. I have a feeling it is linked to that, im not sure. im not that dedicated to getting cruze control working though lol
M3NACE
Ok, I just got most everything I need, for the swap. Its my daily tho as well, and I need it to get me up to school! I did the 2.5 hour drive once in my bronco without cruise, and that sucked.
So what is the clutch switch used for and also my auto has cruise control am i being able to still use it after the manual swap?
Hello how would I Flash the DME on 1998 E36 M3. Just completing the transmission swap from auto to manual. How do I clear codes on OBD2 car. I don’t see this covered in your videos. Thank you great info on these videos never watched any thing like yours, please keep them going ,
Steve
I will be doing a standalone video on how i get rid of my check engine light, but i have gone over the techinques in my swap prep series. but there are many ways to get over the hurdle. ill throw you a few, but they have pros and cons. 1: get a manual DME, but you will need to re-sync the EWS system to the new DME which requires a dealer to do it. 2: have someone re-flash your dme with a manual tune, this requires someone with tools and knowledge on re-flashing 3: send your dme out to get re-flashed, but this will imobilize your car until you get it back. 4: buy a auto or manual DME and send it out to get it converted to manual if its auto, and get the EWS system bypassed, this is one of the quicker ways, because when you get the DME back you just pop your old out and pop in the new, but this can be the most expensive due to the cost of a dme and the cost of the tune for it. I have also heard of people re-flashing it themselves with BMW's INPA system, and I might try and do it myself, but I dont think it would be the quickest way to get it dealt with. I have also heard of people purchasing N/A Tunes for a manual car, and having the tune basically convert the DME to manual while tuning the car. the last two I havent talked to anyone who has done them but Im sure they can be done. best of luck.
@@M3NACE Hey Menace, a question with the DME, If I was able to get the manual DME with the manual wiring harness, you mentioned that I will still have to resync the EWS system to the new DME at the dealership. Will I still need to reflash my DME for the manual tune? Also, will resplicing the reverse light still apply with the manual wiring harness? Hope these questions made sense.
@@maxuelcabasag7833 you will need to get the EWS aligned if you replace the ECU. You can either throw a manual tune on your factory ECU, it will not require EWS reflash, or replace with a manual ECU and reflash the ews. A manual engine harness will only delete the auto trans plug, the body harness is still automatic and will still need to be wired for reverse.
Do you have to run a clutch switch and what are the pros and cons of not running one
You dont have to run one. Pro, you can start the car without pushing the clutch in. Con, you can start it in gear and lurch the car forward
Hi I did the swap from following what you did and everything is fine apart from my ignition won't give me the key back so it's stuck in there. Any ideas what to do?
good question lol, the only thing that I could think of is that little cable that disconnected from the auto trans shift harness. I would find that cable, it should be sitting around or next to the shifter under the console, and push the cable back into its little harness and see if it will give you the key back.
awesome detail man really appreciated. Might sound stupid but is the reverse light switch you wire in optional? Before the switch you wired the harness from the trans to the two pins on the black connector and it worked after selecting reverse. Is the switch only there if you want to put the lights on without engaging reverse?
well it is required to have them wired in, but the car will still work if you donr wire the reverse lights lol, the switch is there to engage the reverse lights when the shifter is in reverse. the switch is controlled by the trans.
Hey dude any idea why my brake lights work while the car is off but when it’s on it doesn’t
Hi Many, many thx for these awesome videos. CompleTed my swap to a E46 M3 six speed and that is the bomb, super happy with that choice. Gearing works perfectly and did not have ro replace the driveshaft. In fact I just took off the front section for the swap. Just one problem remains. How to get rid if the cog light?
Awesome man! To get rid of the light just pull the cluster and remove the bulb. Thats how its done on E36's, im not sure it the procedure is the same on e46's though.
Oh thanks so much. The swap was on a 1997 M3 sedan. I really like the six speed now. Cruising at 80mph@3000rpm ! Keep up the good work awesome vids.!
@@reinaldoortiz2118 awesome man, good to hear!
Hi, hope you will still see this. Great video! Got a question about the part where you are jumping the wires without a clutch switch, is jumping pin 5 and pin 7 the same for a harness of a ssg/smg gearbox? My clutch pedal didn’t come with a clutch safety switch so i have to find out how to do it myself but there are not alot of in depth videos from ssg to manual and how to wire it. Hope you can help me out!
May be similar, i would start by comparing the pinout of the SMG selector harness to the auto harness and see if you have similar inputs/outputs
@@M3NACE aah okayy, will do that! Thanks for responding❤️
Quinn do you know how to troubleshoot a camshaft sensor electrical I replace my cam shaft sensor but still tripping code I live in Oceanside
what engine/year and what brand of sensor did you replace your old one with?
Use a test light or ohm meter and ensure that there is not a broken wire. Or you can look up the resistance and bench test the sensor new vs old to be sure the sensor is good. Lastly, if the sensor is not indexed correctly it won't work. Meaning that the sensor has to be oriented....google indexing cam sensor or throttle position sensor. Same idea. Good luck man.
Well I've occured some problems with reverse light switch harness. It was cutted of at the beginning of the engine harness and i can't find out where it goes originally. I've tried to go over and cutted the Blue/Yellow wire at X20 pin but when i put anything that can go for V+ to it just short circut and engine stops. Any help where i can put Voltage wire? It was a m43b16 swap to m42b18. Any help appreciated!
Anyone know the neutral switch for obd1 cars 5 and 7 start my car but it is the reverse gear idk why but my lights come on because I don’t know exactly which wires are to start
22:38 this part with the clutch switch you are wiring up has me confused. I'm manual swapping. Im also motor swapping, and using the harness from a manual car. Do i still need to hook up that clutch switch at all? The new motor with manual trans starts with just jumping the pins. Clutch lines arent even hooked up. Can't i just solder the wires together in the exact same way you did with the brake switch wires? I dont have cruise control and wont be getting that.
Where did you get one of the plugs from ?
I've just done my swap but i did my engine and manual swap from my other shell. My shell is auto is the reverse lights wiring the same even tho the main engine harness is now a manual one?
Yes, the reverse lights are tied to the body harness not the engine harness
what do the other wires left in the automatic harness do? also, did the cruise control work? also, when the clutch is in, it starts. after started when the clutch is out, will the clutch switch cut the electrical connection causing problems? can you still use a clutch switch instead of another brake switch?
the remainder of the wires are for lighting, and for telling the transmission what gear / mods you are in. lights, reverse, drive neutral, 4, 3, 2, sport mode, ext. my cruise control did not work after this, but it did not work before the swap, i suspect was something within the cruise control motor itself. that whole system has since been deleted from the car lol. use a brake switch instead of a clutch switch, they flow electricity differently.
M3NACE thank you so much for your videos dude, I’m half way through my swap and only started last week. Without your diy I would be pretty lost and it would probably take triple the time. Thank you so much, god bless!
M3NACE does this mean that you jumping some of those wires you could still put the car in sport/economy mode?
Hello I just did a manual swap and it cranks but won’t start can you help me
Did you replace your DME or remove your intake manifold?
Anyone know how to contact up the brake light s
Ill be doin this swap pretty soon and im curious. Instead of having to do all the wiring, wouldnt i be able to use the transmission wiring from my donor car? id have to cut it right?
yeah you could, you will still have to run it and wire it but it should work.
Hey M3nace, I ran into a little issue on the clutch switch part. For some reason my car starts with the clutch switch engaged instead of disengaged as you show in the video. Ps I'm using an actual e36 clutch switch instead of a brake switch. Not sure if that could be why.
It is, the clutch switch works opposite the brake switch, which is why you need to use a brake switch instead or a clutch switch.
@@M3NACE Ah, that makes sense now. Did it your way and it worked like a charm. Thank you for your knowledge sir 🎩
Yoo vids are fire mate! Im going to do a m52b28 swap on my manual e30. The m52 is from automatic e39, and will be paired with e36 manual gearbox. Since the ecu is automatic and the rest is from manual cars, i assume i only need to replace starter, take out transmission chip from ecu, and do no clutch switch wiring. Is that it? or do i miss something?
since you are swapping it into an E30, I think there is alot more that needs to be done as far as wiring goes. is your motor a TU? as in double vanos? I would think you would want to get the ECU converted to a manual tune with an EWS delete to start. the starter should be one from a E36, that fits the gearbox. as far as the starters go, the manual and the automatic cars are the same. I would email the guys at kasselperformance, www.kasselperformance.com/ they do alot of OE DME modifications, and even some wiring harness work. im sure they will be able to help you out and point you in the right direction, just tell em' I sent you:)
Nope, it isnt the TU version. If i use stand alone ecu would it be easier for me as i dont need to do the ews delete and stuffs? Gonna email kasselperformace soon thanks for that!
standalones get expensive quick. if thats the way you want to run, go for it. I would think it would be easier and quicker to reflash an EWS delete the factory DME lol
Hi Quinn- I got the connector, wiring leads and a connector cover (along with the associated BMW part #'s) and can send them to you with a picture of each of the parts and the part # if you want to somehow post them to this video for the reference of your viewers. Tried pasting the picture in this post and it wouldn't let me....Let me know. Pete
please yeah, if you want to DM them to me on instagram or facebook the links to my social media is in the video description
im trash at wiring but I can crimp pretty well. would that work?
MCatwar it can, but it wont hold as well or last as long as proper wiring will
M3NACE aight I'll just do your method with intertwining. I've had issues with that though where it frays apart
im cofused with brake pedal switch. when its pressed you cant start it. so basically you cant press brake pedal cos it wont start the car?
Opposite, and wired to the clutch. You will not be able to start it with the clutch out, you will need to push the clutch pedal in to start
@@M3NACE thanks for video you done great job !
what made you run the clutch switch versus straight wiring 5 and 7?
completion of the series. I want this to sort of be the end-all for the manual conversion, the complete package. some people might want to run a clutch switch, some dont. for those who do, they dont have to search for instructions on how to do it, so its all here.
Your the man Quinn Beamer owners around the world who do this swap reffer to your methods 👏
M3NACE does this mean that you jumping some of those wires you could still put the car in sport/economy mode?
I am going to be using these videos to do my 5 speed swap in a couple weeks. I have to ask how come you didnt use a clutch pedal switch? Was there a reason to using the brake pedal switch?
so E36's didnt come with clutch saftey switches. the late models, I believe 98 and 99 had them, but the rest didnt. the clutch switch in the earlier models are only for disengaging the cruze control, so they are different in principal and how the switches work. with the clutch switch, it will allow current to flow when the button is pressed. so if you wire the clutch switch using the actuall clutch switch, you will only be able to start the car with the clutch out, as in not pressed in, because the button would not be pressed if you have the clutch pushed in, so current will not flow. the brake pedal switch is the opposite, it only allows current to flow when the button is not pressed. so, if the clutch is out, the button will be pressed and not allow the car to start. when you push the clutch in, the button will be out and allow current to flow, allowing you to start the car with the clutch in. make sense? good question.
M3NACE makes perfect sense! I was planning on using the clutch switch but was not aware of that. Thanks for the heads up! I have a few brake switches so I dont need to find another.👍
brake switches are easy to come by, but you need the other end of the harness to properly splice te wires in. they are easy to find at a pick a part and usually they will give it to you for free because its so small and doesnt fit into a part catagory. ye feel?
@@M3NACE i think you mentioned your cruze control didn't work. I think the brake switch would be the reason why.
Hallo
Would an e46 transmission fit on the e36 m50?
I searched and came up with nothing.I might have an extra 5 speed from an e46 come up, and I m planning on doing a 5 speed swap.Can I use the transmission from the e46 and install it in the e36?
I dont know if it will fit the block or the tunnel, can anyone confirm?
@munzer shakhashiro i think you can. I am not sure of the details though.
Hey, what numbers did you plug the first balck wire to to get your car to start? Thanks 🤙
Where can I get a plug like the one you wired for the reverse light?
I couldnt find a part number for it, but I went to the parts department at a local BMW dealership and asked them for the female connector for the reverse light wire and they gave me that connector and the 2 wires.
I'll give that a try tomorrow, thanks!
good luck man! if you can try and score a part number for them. they wouldnt give it to me, although im sure the guy where I got it from just was too lazy to find it or didnt know where.
Hey buddy, did you happen to get the part numbers for the connector and the wires that are needed to do the reverse light? I am doing a swap and need them. If not, I will try to go the route Quinn did and just ask the BMW parts counter guy... Thanks.
Glad i scimmed the comments those are exactly my only two questions lol
Nice video!
Is the automatic harness the same between e36 and e34?
Im not 100% sure but i would imagine it's similar
Do you still get the check engine light for the auto stuff after this?
after you pull the chip and complete the wiring, on OBD1 cars no. OBD2 cars yes, you will get P0600 and will need to run a reflash for a manual tune or a manual DME. I have a video covering the multiple ways you can go about fixing it, I recommend kassel performance as they have an awesome DME exchange program that is plug and play to rid the code, just tell them I sent you and get the EWS delete. their performance tunes are also great and at a excellent price.
@@M3NACE if you paid a shop, like I did, to buy misc parts and do the install would you expect this flash to be taken care of by them?
@@3DGEM3 i cam only imagine they would if they were following your exact orders as a customer butni think thats all on us to do our research as i am now thanks to quinn i can clearly see that doing the homework makes it all come to together he said 3days it took him thats not bad and hella cheaper than a shop oh gosh i dont wanna know the amount if u wasnt supply the parts to a shop mechanic
were did you purchase the reverse light harness?
the Parts department at a BMW dealership, they are super cheap.
engine and manual swap into an auto. Donor engine, harness and cpu used, came from same car(1997). tranny wasn't original to the same donor. it was from a 92. yet clutch pedal does have a switch. the internet is yelling "that's for cruise control if its from b4 97". so would the automatic(which is what my car was up until this cluster fug) neutral safety shit still prevent my car from cranking?
Yes. The safety switch setup is in the Body harness, not the engine harness/ECU setup. if you are using an auto chassis harness, you will need to bypass
@@M3NACE god bless ur speed.
by chance do you know if I need to worry about the ews? I guess it's the car security. maybe non applicable to what you've done since it looks to be an ecu/engine swap issue.
wait...if it was security it should crank. imma try ur wiring tricks. hopefully that'll work. but sounds like I oughta look into the security if not.
@@575gtcFerrari EWS issue possible? The BCM probably wont be EWS but if the DME is it might be doing weird stuff. Usually EWS issues will be crank/no start concern. Try the wiring pin jump trick and see what it does - if not start checking wiring, starting with the starter relay
@@M3NACE Neet-0 I'll give those a try. Probably not getting back at it till next weekend. Wish me luck
Hey man, I did the swap and jumped pin 5 and 7, pulled the trans pin thing out of the computer, and the car cranks but has no fuel or spark? Any ideas what I didn’t get right? Or what could be causing this since the swap
Did you remove the intake manifold for your swap?
I’m having this issue and I did remove the intake manifold. What would the manifold have to do with a no start?
Connector is from Bosch EV1 Injector
So im swapping my 325is(manual already) with a 325i engine with harness and everything besides the trans, would it be easier to use the 325is ECU or do I have to use the 325i ECU?
Use your stock ECU, unless its a red label it will need to be programmed, but the ECU's are the same, motors the same. No difference between i and iS cars.
Hey man I finally got around to doing the manual swap ,but When I went to crank the car for the first time it wouldn’t start. My first thought was the starter because It was oem .i replaced it with a starter I knew was working and still nothing ,I can hear it trying to start but it just won’t catch.After that I noticed that the check engine light wouldn’t turn on when turning the key to prime the car ,someone told me I needed a dme with a ews delete so I bought a dme with the delete and the check engine light turns on now but I still have the same problem where it won’t start .i was hoping you had some knowledge on this or if you could give me some ideas the next thing I was going to try was to check if all the grounds and redo the wiring [i did not wire a clutch switch I did the bypass So yea that’s the situation I’m in I would appreciate the second opinion! Thanks 🙏🏾
By the way it’s a 325i 1995 production month of January
It also has a bmw alarm system if that has something to do with it
I followed your instructions to a T. But my car won't start. Please help me out 😥
did you try starting it with the two terminals jumped?
Great explanation but don’t tell people they can just wrap the wires then put electrical tape over it. You have it right with sodar
Not tryina he a headache buuuut, I followed allllll your steps, but nothing works. Only thing that works is when you tested the brake lights before cutting the wires. Car wont start. Lights Still come on, but in not gettin a crank or anything.
So your saying instead of a clutch switch I can just wire a kill switch 😮
Sure
@@M3NACE and then just turn it off to be able to activate cruise control ?
Am not getting no cracking r starting
thank yuo
yuor welcome
i wonder if my cuzin wired this wrong that’s why my car has a lot of trouble turning over to the point that at times the battery completely dies from me trying to turn it over
Did he wire a clutch switch? Reverse lights wouldnt cause that. Did you replace the starter? Os the battery holding charge? Is everything plugged in?
no switch for the clutch and no reverse light wire all i knew is i plugged in that auto shifter and the car start when we was done with the swap then he cut some wires wired them up and now the car has hella problems to start and yes we got a new starter but it was from an auto but wierd thing is the manual starter and the auto started had the same part number
is it possible to wire the wrong 2 cables but for the car to still start cuz maybe he did the wrong 5 pin and 7 pin what if he did like 4 pin and 7 pin lol
btw my car is obd1 95 325is
@@mromagachi5194 i mean i guess but in truth if he wired it incorrectly it wouldnt start at all.
It’s a 01 ford ranger xlt 2.5 Manuel transmission
I dont know man, I would back probe it and see that the waveform looks like but that requires a labscope. I have never worked on a Ranger before so I dont know the ins and outs of that car, I work mainly on E36's. I would start a thread on a ranger forum and ask, or go talk to a ford technician or someone who regularly works on those.
Lighter makes a really good pair of strippers...
I’ll take my M3 w/an Auto.
Lmao
Love your videos but the only mechanic I’ve ever heard called things him guys and other things male oriented things Lmaoo it’s a little weird try using female pronouns it’s a lil less weird 😂
Not tryina he a headache buuuut, I followed allllll your steps, but nothing works. Only thing that works is when you tested the brake lights before cutting the wires. Car wont start. Lights Still come on, but in not gettin a crank or anything.
alright lwts figure this out. so when you jump pin 5 and 7 the car does not start? did you replace anything else when you did the swap like the DME?
@@M3NACE did everything like you did. The first time I opted to start the car without the clutch but I've only seen videos of people using the switch. I've even followed this guy to see if goin with the switch works.
th-cam.com/video/DbTuZlcsT7M/w-d-xo.html.
The DME he pulled the chip from is the same one I told you that was different on my car. I even pulled the chip in the one he pulled from, putting chips back in and pulling the other. It's been musical chairs with trying to find solutions. Right now I spliced the two biggest wires that are on that EWS box, green/blk, yellow/black, thats behind the glove box, and now the car cranks unlike before. Now I gotta get to the starting part. Progress right? Lol