I just tried your bump stop fix and I couldn’t break a rod end at the skate park. This is unbelievable. Usually I try to not break it by half speed jumps and still break it. This will make my Erevo 2.0 my favourite.
This is yet another super helpful video. I really love the clarity and how you care about your car. Every E-Revo 2.0 owner should subscribe to your channel. Thank you!
Great video & very valuable information.... I had constant problems with rod ends but since i added the extra bump stops i have had NO rod end or shock end problems. THANKS man!!!
I super glued the ones on my Revo 3.3. Although I beat the snot out of my Revo, I don't seem to have them pop as much as the E-REVO guys. I popped it 4 times one day before I got fed up with it and used the super glue. Lol. I have also upgraded to the 6061 aluminum rods and did the same super glue trick.
@@AMM0394 Vice grips and twist them off. Either that or buy new rods. Rod ends come in packs of I think ten. Trust me, spending $10 without the hassle vs spending a lot trying to find the solution. It takes a lot of runs to egg the rod ends out tho
You want oil to come out. That means there is no air. It is a self bleeding system with a hole in the cap designed for this so it can be overfilled. . With conventional shocks that might not be a problem, but these shocks lay down, so air bubbles can travel and rest at the piston.
Great job dude.thanks 4 that important fix.i was gonna change my mind on bying the E REVO but thanks 2 U im a gonna get me 1.the vid was right on.no fussing no blabla.just good edditing all the way.saying whats needed and even showing us how 2.keep that up and weve gotta hit here buddy
All I did was run zip ties from the body tower to the a arms to prevent them from reaching maximum travel. That way no component can be over extended. So when you roll and a wheel clips the ground the cable tie prevents the ground from pulling the wheel down further which can damage the suspension.
I have an E-Revo 2.0 and haven’t had any problems with rod ends, I drive my car kinda hard doing some decent big jumps with backflips I heard people were putting limiting straps on the rear, so all I did was putting some zip ties to work like a strap
How did you make this work? I got a big bottle of different size and different color zip ties from Harbor Freight a few weeks ago for a different project,but now that you mention this, I'm curious to how you made this work? I'd like to give it a shot myself.
Got a ERevo last weekend and did the upgrade you showed before I ran it the first time. I haven't had any problems with the shocks but have pulled out 5 of the pushrod ends.
You have the bump stop installed backwards. The smaller end points towards the direction of travel. The actual bump one is correct, but the internal top out one travels downwards with the fat part on the bottom. That means the piston drives the smaller part into the bigger part against the shock body. You want the piston pushing the larger part so that the smaller part can collapse into the bottom. Basically, have these bump stops mirror each other. . Having the smaller part driven by the piston into the shock body can cause it to fail easier. That’s why the stock bump stop drives the fat side and the small side makes contact with the rod seal cover. . When rebuilding my shocks I installed one backwards not paying attention... that was the one that broke in half. . Also, you should try the jato shaft boots. I use them on mine to keep the shaft clean. This protects the seal and keeps the oil cleaner.
Loved your video and nice fix ! I also grabbed some big tierips and used those instead of the expencive limiting strap solution.. Just looped them around the mounting posts and the center of the a-arms.. 20 cents and all done.. :). Have to say it works a charm. Maybe that helps aswell :)
I did same sorta thing. I just used some nitro fuel tubing over the shaft on the inside so the does the same thing. No issues only one shock rod end broke so far. I did not have the problem with the tube breaking down though. Like that you stuck with it to make the revo better. Its a odd truck in ways but is a blast.
THANX FOR THE VIDEO MAN! I USE PIECES OF FUEL TUBING FOR MY SHOCK STOPS, LIKE YOU USE FOR NITRO RC'S. ALOT CHEAPER -AND YOU CAN CUSTOMIZE HOW LONG YOUR STOPS WILL BE.
No joke I have went through 5-8 shocks on the rear. I finally had enough and bought limiting straps, upgraded shocks, and new push rods and pull rods and haven't had a problem since.
I don't have that problem I don't jump my E-Revo 2.0 8 years never never happened I guess if you jump too much eventually it's going to happen video loved it thank you
Just came across this and subscribed. Excellent mod and thanks for sharing. Traxxas should hire you as a consultant 😃. I got back into RC about 6 months ago. Rebuilt my son’s 2wd Rustler from the chassis up. Now I want a new challenge and I’m getting close to pulling the trigger on the eRevo 2.0. Are you still doing these videos? I was curious to know what 3s batteries you’re running. Thanks again!
Great video! I will get these kits! What is the stock oil weight in the rear do you know? Should I stay with stock oil weights or do you recommend something different for both front and rear? THANKS!
Just saying from my personal experience this past week with limiting straps. I think they might be a load of crap. I if not broke more and stripped more rod ends with them on than with them off.. And I am sending it off big jumps. Stripped 3 rod ends in a day yesterday and few days before that without them only stripped one rod end cause I did land wrong so... hmm?
Revo lution I’ve seen the same problem. Added limiting straps, adjusted it so it’s actually limiting. Then popped out my rod ends 3 times in one run. I’m switching over to this guys solution and removing the limiting straps. We’ll see if it works.
@@diegocruz3156 No that didn't fix it at all! Not sure how this fixed it for the video creator. I did find a solution though, but it was pricey. I replaced all the suspension arms with RPM suspension arms, and also replaced the plastic rod ends with metal rod ends. Both are absolutely required to fix this problem and here's why. The threads on the rods are so small that they strip out of the plastic rod ends super easy. You NEED metal on metal. And you can put some locktite on in there as well to keep it snug. But that's not enough. That will prevent the rod end from coming off the rod, but then the problem I had next was that the force now moved to the suspension arms. Anytime you crash, that force has to go somewhere. And if the rod end doesn't budge, it goes to the suspension arms and it will strip the threaded balls out of the suspension arms. Traxxas' suspension arm plastic is bad compared to the RPM suspension arm plastic. I went through 4 different Traxxas suspension arms before I treid RPM. And the RPM have been perfect every since I put them on. I've been racing and bashing my revo and it's working perfectly now. I can send you some pictures if you'd like.
@@diegocruz3156 Found the parts hot-racing.com/?partnumber=RVO160T06;c=443 or hot-racing.com/?partnumber=RVO160AHBN06;c=431 and also www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/a-arms/front-a-arms/front-right-a-arms-for-the-traxxas-revo-2-0/
Great video! I ordered my bump stops.. i also ordered the upgraded gtr shocks trx-5460A .. must i do it on that shocks too..?! Or is it only nescesarry on the stock ones..??
UPGRADED RC Thanks!!! I also orderd gold springs 21lbs, And the Traxxas purple springs 6,4 rate.. I hope Its not too stift.. but I have the metal skit plates, And the car ways more..
Dude thank you so much, your channel has been a great help for me. As a new ERevo owner of a used rc this fixes are gold. Do you have an instagram page?
I did this mod about a month ago and thought it would work out well, but today I did some mild jumps on a skate ramp and stripped out a rod end within a few jumps. I was getting terrible body slap too. I guess I should raise the truck to the highest setting and get stronger springs.
Yes forsure, if you are jumping alot. I am all the way up, have the puple heavy springs and i am running 60 weight oil all the wsy around with stock pistons.
Great video bro,I just got my E-Revo not too long ago and am going to use this method plus limiting straps, but I'm trying to think which size will work best 85mm or 90mm?
interesting fix, I will try this because it's annoying as hell. Do you guys also have the same problem with the TIE ROD ENDS these keep snapping for me too :( I have the beefed up Traxxas bars but cant find aluminum ends anywhere. do these exists??? anyone HELPPPP :(
@@upgradedrc3697 I just snagged 1 on a trade. And I must say. I don't think there's touch you could replace it with. I'm please with mine. And I'm coming from an old thunder tiger mt4 g3 with a 220kv castle and mmxl only on 4s 💪🏼 ( it sits on a shelf now 😊)
Yo! This looks like It'll fix my issue w/ the rod ends BIG TIME! Thanks so much man! However, I have a question: by how much does it reduce travel? Also is 60 weight the best weight for bashing in an E-Revo 2.0 VXL? I have mince at 60 in the rear and 50 in the front. Thanks!
I honestly haven't thrown a rod end since the mod. But, my friend got an E Revo a couple of weeks ago and hasn't had a problem yet, Stock! And he has hit some big jumps and wrecked. Maybe they fixed the length of the rods.
Wow that’s great. Is there anyway you can do a review on it jumping and landing. Because I can’t find any videos on a newer E revo. I read somewhere that they changed it when they added the new colors. Anyway I just don’t want to buy one and regret it right after I get it. Thanks for your time.
So basically you are short stroking the shock damper, making it to have less impact from the pressure and weight of the arms/drive-train/tires/wheels. IMO it will work, but you pretty much limiting the suspension travel of the truck, which it was designed for. My solution was installing a Traxxas Variable Damping Kit 5461, it uses a metal valve system. What happens is 2 our of 4 valve shuts when it starts to rebound limiting the force and weight from the arms/drive-train/tires/wheels. I will however still install a limiting strap as secondary support.
Shlock stroke is the length of the shock shaft when fully decompressed. The stroke will be shortened using this method. By shortening the shock stroke in the rear, you'll lose traction because less power will be transferred to the rear as the truck won't squat as much under acceleration, especially when you pin the throttle.
Agreed, but i don't notice any difference or have any problems and the limiting straps limit travel as well. It's just better for me than replacing my rod ends every 10 minutes lol.
Problem is the A-Arms over stretching my friends. The A arms need to be limited. Mather of time before the rods comes of the springs I think. In front the arms are limited by the skid plate. On the rear they are not.
I did this mod, the left side has yet to be a problem but mine still pulls the right rear rod end out constantly, going to try the limit straps. I hate this car.
@@upgradedrc3697 Play on the suspension rod itself or on how far the wheel will travel before it engages the shock? I'll compare the 2 sides, the right always seems to be that one that pulls. Looking at the model it seems they could limit the downward travel of the a arms by incorporating some sort of stop in the bottom skid plate.
@@upgradedrc3697 Thanks, I'll check it out. I'm waiting on new shock tops and new rockers. After that everything except the diff housing and shock bodies will be new. If this doesn't solve it or at least make it a less common occurrence I think it'll be time to move on to a different car. Thanks again for the help!
my erevo 2.0 came with much beefier rods than i see in this video, aldready installed. and bumpstops on the shocks. have jumped it alot, crashed hard an nothing happened to it other than i slightly bent the front pushrods :)
@@upgradedrc3697 thats great from traxxas actually :) me and my friend, both driving our new erevo 2.0, where out just now and bashed the poor cars on a paved bmw track here. we gave them hell for an hour and nothing serious broke. i broke a wing mount, and we both bent a driveshaft. but we both noticed a sound from the drivetrain, we both had loose pinions and his motor was very loose. any tips for the pinion gear? used blue loctite now and torqed it down hard but still came loose.. :P
@@TommieLjungberg Ya, my wing mount is broken 2 hrs after I put a new one on. It is the most broken part, unfortunately there are no good upgrades for it. I have went thru atleast 10 in 2 yrs lol. Usually I run without one. My gearing changes all the time, depending on what i"m doing and where i'm at. But i'll send you the link for my video that describes that!
@@upgradedrc3697 fixed my wing mount today, and checked my center diff and the tranny bearings, after my friend blew 2 bearings in his truck i got worried but no problems in mine. But while i had it out, i did change the center diff "fluid" to silicone earplug and a dab of 100k, and shimmed it. After 3 minutes of running i broke the rear diff. Is this to be expected sometimes or did i have just bad luck? 🤣 Check video - th-cam.com/video/3G8n22wiCXc/w-d-xo.html
I can't complain too much I ordered limiting straps on a Friday I picked him up on a Thursday but I got my straps when they first come out maybe that is the big difference I've been reading y'all's reviews and it looks like if I need some sooner I better or now I only tried to bump stops for a little while I noticed that the oil was breaking down the bump stop some because I tried it in the front end I had two limiting straps on the back and front but just as a precaution I'm hitting some pretty hard jumps with even harder Landings at times just curious anybody know what the actual height instead of distance is on the record playing in concrete culvert areas
I just tried your bump stop fix and I couldn’t break a rod end at the skate park. This is unbelievable. Usually I try to not break it by half speed jumps and still break it. This will make my Erevo 2.0 my favourite.
This is yet another super helpful video. I really love the clarity and how you care about your car. Every E-Revo 2.0 owner should subscribe to your channel. Thank you!
Did this mod and since then I've bashed the crap out of my e revo with not a single issue from the rod ends
This video needs more views, thank you so much man
Great video & very valuable information.... I had constant problems with rod ends but since i added the extra bump stops i have had NO rod end or shock end problems.
THANKS man!!!
I tried the kit and I seemed to work very well
I super glued the ones on my Revo 3.3. Although I beat the snot out of my Revo, I don't seem to have them pop as much as the E-REVO guys. I popped it 4 times one day before I got fed up with it and used the super glue. Lol. I have also upgraded to the 6061 aluminum rods and did the same super glue trick.
Lane Waite so what do you do when the rod ends stretch where the ball goes in and have to replace them?
@@AMM0394 Vice grips and twist them off. Either that or buy new rods. Rod ends come in packs of I think ten. Trust me, spending $10 without the hassle vs spending a lot trying to find the solution. It takes a lot of runs to egg the rod ends out tho
Awesome video dude, this is a life saver, it's a nightmare getting hot racing parts in UK👍
So thankful I came across your video. Going to try this solution. Thanks again!
First class video, keep up the good work.
Shared this onto the Revo Ownere Group!!
Cant wait for my E Revo 2.0 to arrive on Saturday!!
You want oil to come out. That means there is no air. It is a self bleeding system with a hole in the cap designed for this so it can be overfilled.
.
With conventional shocks that might not be a problem, but these shocks lay down, so air bubbles can travel and rest at the piston.
Great job dude.thanks 4 that important fix.i was gonna change my mind on bying the E REVO but thanks 2 U im a gonna get me 1.the vid was right on.no fussing no blabla.just good edditing all the way.saying whats needed and even showing us how 2.keep that up and weve gotta hit here buddy
Thanks, i really appreciate that comment. I try to deliver the knowledge i have to other people and save them time and money. More vids to come!👍
All I did was run zip ties from the body tower to the a arms to prevent them from reaching maximum travel. That way no component can be over extended. So when you roll and a wheel clips the ground the cable tie prevents the ground from pulling the wheel down further which can damage the suspension.
This is really good advice, but i don't really get the whole thing with pulling rod ends, i have pulled A-arms a couple times though.
Thanks for the video man definately helpfull and tutorial is on point. You definatly need more views man, you got the best step by step tutorial ever
U can buy these same things on amazon as AirPod replacement tips and they work crazy good
I have an E-Revo 2.0 and haven’t had any problems with rod ends, I drive my car kinda hard doing some decent big jumps with backflips I heard people were putting limiting straps on the rear, so all I did was putting some zip ties to work like a strap
I did the same and no problems so far
Where did you put the zip ties , this what i want to do .
How did you make this work? I got a big bottle of different size and different color zip ties from Harbor Freight a few weeks ago for a different project,but now that you mention this, I'm curious to how you made this work? I'd like to give it a shot myself.
Got a ERevo last weekend and did the upgrade you showed before I ran it the first time. I haven't had any problems with the shocks but have pulled out 5 of the pushrod ends.
Make sure to adjust the rod ends after the modification so that there is a little bit of play
Been having the same problem on my revo 3.3. This seems like a great solution. Thank you!
thank you for that solution!
Could you please show some more uprade opportunities?
You have the bump stop installed backwards. The smaller end points towards the direction of travel. The actual bump one is correct, but the internal top out one travels downwards with the fat part on the bottom. That means the piston drives the smaller part into the bigger part against the shock body. You want the piston pushing the larger part so that the smaller part can collapse into the bottom. Basically, have these bump stops mirror each other.
.
Having the smaller part driven by the piston into the shock body can cause it to fail easier. That’s why the stock bump stop drives the fat side and the small side makes contact with the rod seal cover.
.
When rebuilding my shocks I installed one backwards not paying attention... that was the one that broke in half.
.
Also, you should try the jato shaft boots. I use them on mine to keep the shaft clean. This protects the seal and keeps the oil cleaner.
Loved your video and nice fix ! I also grabbed some big tierips and used those instead of the expencive limiting strap solution.. Just looped them around the mounting posts and the center of the a-arms.. 20 cents and all done.. :). Have to say it works a charm. Maybe that helps aswell :)
Thanks for sharing new informations. I have to do this to my truck 🤩
I did same sorta thing. I just used some nitro fuel tubing over the shaft on the inside so the does the same thing. No issues only one shock rod end broke so far. I did not have the problem with the tube breaking down though. Like that you stuck with it to make the revo better. Its a odd truck in ways but is a blast.
THANX FOR THE VIDEO MAN! I USE PIECES OF FUEL TUBING FOR MY SHOCK STOPS, LIKE YOU USE FOR NITRO RC'S. ALOT CHEAPER -AND YOU CAN CUSTOMIZE HOW LONG YOUR STOPS WILL BE.
No joke I have went through 5-8 shocks on the rear. I finally had enough and bought limiting straps, upgraded shocks, and new push rods and pull rods and haven't had a problem since.
I don't have that problem I don't jump my E-Revo 2.0 8 years never never happened I guess if you jump too much eventually it's going to happen video loved it thank you
Thanks man opened up my my mind a bit about it all. Great video!
Liked and subed also.
Just came across this and subscribed. Excellent mod and thanks for sharing. Traxxas should hire you as a consultant 😃. I got back into RC about 6 months ago. Rebuilt my son’s 2wd Rustler from the chassis up. Now I want a new challenge and I’m getting close to pulling the trigger on the eRevo 2.0. Are you still doing these videos? I was curious to know what 3s batteries you’re running. Thanks again!
Yes i am still doing these videos and thank you for the great comment. I am running Traxxas 3s 5000mah with 50c burst
UPGRADED RC how many 3s battery do you have? I only have 4 so far, but gives me an 1.5-2hr playtime
@@markc3571 I have 6 3s 5000mah 50c Traxxas batterys. They are good for about 45 mins each just bashing around.
Great video mate. Keep posting.
Great video! I will get these kits! What is the stock oil weight in the rear do you know? Should I stay with stock oil weights or do you recommend something different for both front and rear? THANKS!
Same all the way around. 50w is a great start, then tune to liking. Thicker weight in hot weather, thinner weight in cold weather.
Cool. They must of just released them My hobby shop got mine in as well! It's been about 5 months of waiting for mine. Lol!🤟
Thanks man. Really good info. Need more like this.
Just saying from my personal experience this past week with limiting straps. I think they might be a load of crap. I if not broke more and stripped more rod ends with them on than with them off.. And I am sending it off big jumps. Stripped 3 rod ends in a day yesterday and few days before that without them only stripped one rod end cause I did land wrong so... hmm?
Revo lution I’ve seen the same problem. Added limiting straps, adjusted it so it’s actually limiting. Then popped out my rod ends 3 times in one run. I’m switching over to this guys solution and removing the limiting straps. We’ll see if it works.
Joey Zacherl did it get better ???
@@diegocruz3156 No that didn't fix it at all! Not sure how this fixed it for the video creator. I did find a solution though, but it was pricey. I replaced all the suspension arms with RPM suspension arms, and also replaced the plastic rod ends with metal rod ends. Both are absolutely required to fix this problem and here's why. The threads on the rods are so small that they strip out of the plastic rod ends super easy. You NEED metal on metal. And you can put some locktite on in there as well to keep it snug. But that's not enough. That will prevent the rod end from coming off the rod, but then the problem I had next was that the force now moved to the suspension arms. Anytime you crash, that force has to go somewhere. And if the rod end doesn't budge, it goes to the suspension arms and it will strip the threaded balls out of the suspension arms. Traxxas' suspension arm plastic is bad compared to the RPM suspension arm plastic. I went through 4 different Traxxas suspension arms before I treid RPM. And the RPM have been perfect every since I put them on. I've been racing and bashing my revo and it's working perfectly now.
I can send you some pictures if you'd like.
@@diegocruz3156 Found the parts
hot-racing.com/?partnumber=RVO160T06;c=443
or
hot-racing.com/?partnumber=RVO160AHBN06;c=431
and also
www.rpmrcproducts.com/shop/a-arms/front-a-arms/front-right-a-arms-for-the-traxxas-revo-2-0/
Thanks heaps mate . Awesome videos
Thank you for an insightful video!
Great video! I ordered my bump stops.. i also ordered the upgraded gtr shocks trx-5460A .. must i do it on that shocks too..?! Or is it only nescesarry on the stock ones..??
Yes, the travel is the same
UPGRADED RC
Thanks!!! I also orderd gold springs 21lbs, And the Traxxas purple springs 6,4 rate.. I hope Its not too stift.. but I have the metal skit plates, And the car ways more..
What about heavy duty progressive springs from vg racing?
no, it's not about the compression. The shock rod is to long for the control arms to take up the play and your rod ends pop off.
Dude thank you so much, your channel has been a great help for me. As a new ERevo owner of a used rc this fixes are gold.
Do you have an instagram page?
I do, but I don't keep up with it.
I did this mod about a month ago and thought it would work out well, but today I did some mild jumps on a skate ramp and stripped out a rod end within a few jumps. I was getting terrible body slap too. I guess I should raise the truck to the highest setting and get stronger springs.
Yes forsure, if you are jumping alot. I am all the way up, have the puple heavy springs and i am running 60 weight oil all the wsy around with stock pistons.
Would aluminum rod ends have pulled out as well? Thank you for your time and effort. 🤜🏻💥🤛🏻✌🏻
Yes they would pull out also
Did you ever get the correct limitless straps?
I did not. Still running the bump stop after 2 oil changes.
@@upgradedrc3697 picking one up today and was debating if I should get one or not
@@rcaddictive8572 Awsome, enjoy. Thanks brother.!
Does the 60wt shock oil work well are you running it front and rear what springs you run?
Great video bro,I just got my E-Revo not too long ago and am going to use this method plus limiting straps, but I'm trying to think which size will work best 85mm or 90mm?
If you use this method, you don't need straps.
interesting fix, I will try this because it's annoying as hell. Do you guys also have the same problem with the TIE ROD ENDS these keep snapping for me too :( I have the beefed up Traxxas bars but cant find aluminum ends anywhere. do these exists??? anyone HELPPPP :(
No, this solved all myrod end problems
Any updates on the erevo. Is it still running ?
It's still running. Have not done anything with it in a while. Might be selling it here soon and replacing it with something else stronger and faster!
@@upgradedrc3697 I just snagged 1 on a trade. And I must say. I don't think there's touch you could replace it with. I'm please with mine. And I'm coming from an old thunder tiger mt4 g3 with a 220kv castle and mmxl only on 4s 💪🏼 ( it sits on a shelf now 😊)
Excellent video. Thank you for a great video.
Does the bump stock inside increase a chance of oil leaking from the shocks?
No, not at all. I've had no leaks what so ever.
Have you switched to the new style of pushrods?
No, not yet. My hobby shop is waiting for them
Yo! This looks like It'll fix my issue w/ the rod ends BIG TIME! Thanks so much man! However, I have a question: by how much does it reduce travel? Also is 60 weight the best weight for bashing in an E-Revo 2.0 VXL? I have mince at 60 in the rear and 50 in the front. Thanks!
Are you still running that set up? And is it good for a 45 degree ramp?
I’m thinking about buying a revo. Does your mods still hold up today?
I honestly haven't thrown a rod end since the mod. But, my friend got an E Revo a couple of weeks ago and hasn't had a problem yet, Stock! And he has hit some big jumps and wrecked. Maybe they fixed the length of the rods.
Wow that’s great. Is there anyway you can do a review on it jumping and landing. Because I can’t find any videos on a newer E revo. I read somewhere that they changed it when they added the new colors. Anyway I just don’t want to buy one and regret it right after I get it. Thanks for your time.
Your friends e revo. No limit straps ether? Wow I wonder what Traxxas did it it
Nope, he hasn't needed them or my mod yet. I'm pretty impressed by his jumps and hasn't really broken anything yet.
Anyone know how to prevent my drive shafts popping out? It’s only happened on the rear
The drivesaft or the dogbone?
@@upgradedrc3697 the dog bone sorry it pops out of the cup sometimes
Ya, mine also. It's just the nature of the beast. Make sure your pivit balls stay at the correct adjustment to help keep them in
That peace out at the end scared me🤣🤣🤣
Great Idea! Thank you SO Freakin Much!
Do you need 4 differant kits to do all 4 shocks???
No, one kit does 2 shocks. I only did the rear
Have you tried the metal rods?
No, i haven't had any more pop out after this fix.
So basically you are short stroking the shock damper, making it to have less impact from the pressure and weight of the arms/drive-train/tires/wheels. IMO it will work, but you pretty much limiting the suspension travel of the truck, which it was designed for. My solution was installing a Traxxas Variable Damping Kit 5461, it uses a metal valve system. What happens is 2 our of 4 valve shuts when it starts to rebound limiting the force and weight from the arms/drive-train/tires/wheels. I will however still install a limiting strap as secondary support.
What should the shock stroke be?
I don't know what shock stroke means?
Shlock stroke is the length of the shock shaft when fully decompressed. The stroke will be shortened using this method. By shortening the shock stroke in the rear, you'll lose traction because less power will be transferred to the rear as the truck won't squat as much under acceleration, especially when you pin the throttle.
Agreed, but i don't notice any difference or have any problems and the limiting straps limit travel as well. It's just better for me than replacing my rod ends every 10 minutes lol.
Thanks a lot man 👌👌
Awesome idea but the only problem is that it will limit the suspension travel.
Yes, but the limiting straps will limit travel also
if i got limiting straps do i need this?
Probably not, if you have issues. Then get rid of straps and go with my solution!
Problem is the A-Arms over stretching my friends. The A arms need to be limited. Mather of time before the rods comes of the springs I think. In front the arms are limited by the skid plate. On the rear they are not.
very informative my brother 👍 👏 . new sub here
Witch oil did you put in?
I used 60 weight front and rear
I did this and I continue to strip rod ends.
You might adjust your rod ends so there is about a 1/4" of play in the rod ends . So you don't have them to tight and stress the end.
Awesome
great tips! Thank you
I did this mod, the left side has yet to be a problem but mine still pulls the right rear rod end out constantly, going to try the limit straps. I hate this car.
Make sure your rod ends are adjusted correctly. You only want an 1/8 inch of play or less. Not tight, and not to loose.
@@upgradedrc3697 Play on the suspension rod itself or on how far the wheel will travel before it engages the shock? I'll compare the 2 sides, the right always seems to be that one that pulls. Looking at the model it seems they could limit the downward travel of the a arms by incorporating some sort of stop in the bottom skid plate.
How far the wheel travels before it starts compression of the shock. Should be 1/8" or less
@@upgradedrc3697 Thanks, I'll check it out. I'm waiting on new shock tops and new rockers. After that everything except the diff housing and shock bodies will be new. If this doesn't solve it or at least make it a less common occurrence I think it'll be time to move on to a different car. Thanks again for the help!
my erevo 2.0 came with much beefier rods than i see in this video, aldready installed. and bumpstops on the shocks. have jumped it alot, crashed hard an nothing happened to it other than i slightly bent the front pushrods :)
Ya, the newer E Revos come with better pushrods that are the right length. You probably won't have this issue.
@@upgradedrc3697 thats great from traxxas actually :)
me and my friend, both driving our new erevo 2.0, where out just now and bashed the poor cars on a paved bmw track here. we gave them hell for an hour and nothing serious broke. i broke a wing mount, and we both bent a driveshaft.
but we both noticed a sound from the drivetrain, we both had loose pinions and his motor was very loose. any tips for the pinion gear? used blue loctite now and torqed it down hard but still came loose.. :P
@@TommieLjungberg Ya, my wing mount is broken 2 hrs after I put a new one on. It is the most broken part, unfortunately there are no good upgrades for it. I have went thru atleast 10 in 2 yrs lol. Usually I run without one. My gearing changes all the time, depending on what i"m doing and where i'm at. But i'll send you the link for my video that describes that!
th-cam.com/video/vRR14ny8euM/w-d-xo.html
@@upgradedrc3697 fixed my wing mount today, and checked my center diff and the tranny bearings, after my friend blew 2 bearings in his truck i got worried but no problems in mine. But while i had it out, i did change the center diff "fluid" to silicone earplug and a dab of 100k, and shimmed it. After 3 minutes of running i broke the rear diff. Is this to be expected sometimes or did i have just bad luck? 🤣 Check video - th-cam.com/video/3G8n22wiCXc/w-d-xo.html
I can't complain too much I ordered limiting straps on a Friday I picked him up on a Thursday but I got my straps when they first come out maybe that is the big difference I've been reading y'all's reviews and it looks like if I need some sooner I better or now I only tried to bump stops for a little while I noticed that the oil was breaking down the bump stop some because I tried it in the front end I had two limiting straps on the back and front but just as a precaution I'm hitting some pretty hard jumps with even harder Landings at times just curious anybody know what the actual height instead of distance is on the record playing in concrete culvert areas
Any tips on making the installation of the toe rod ends easier?
I'm not sure what exactly your asking?
@@upgradedrc3697 I can't seem to get one of the rod ends to screw on to the rod.
Figured it out. Reverse threading. Duh
Chap stick
What an idea!! 👍
You should have used a small spring instead of the bump stop
Ya, that would work great. I just didn't have one.
I know it sucks when you need something you can't find it
3:44 yeah...and you reduce travel of 5mm at the shock level....🤦♂️
Ok Let's LUBE our shafts.😜 To prevent ripping🤦♂️ , Then insert...🤦♀️😆ahhh "That feels really good". he says
Tried it - didn’t work.
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