My wonderful handyman just finished replacing the wood posts on my aggregate front porch due to dry rot and a cracked cement corner. He had to remove a large chunk of the concrete corner and repair. I’m getting ready to hire someone to either stain or epoxy and seal my front porch (cracked aggregate) and walkway for a uniform look. I really like this method and finish over any other so far. Thank you for your video. It will be helpful in making my decision. ❤
I'm on a crew doing this now. We do a light, uniform spray coat of stain, and follow up with hand sponge application of a more concentrated mix of the same color. It produces an irregular, yet consistent random variation. We also almost always use tape to produce grout line/stamp patterns. The customer decides, of course. But our surfaces trend towards modified skip trowel or magic trowel textures. There were wood patterns mentioned, but I have yet to get a chance to try that texture...but I REALLY wanna dip into that one! It looks beautiful if done correctly.
You’ve got this down to a great process, I’ve never considered using a wet grinder as I always typically use a lavina with a dust collector. Awesome job!
Thank you Mike. Really appreciate the encouragement. I really enjoyed seeing those two videos showing your process on garage floors over the past month. 👍🏻👍🏻
Fantastic job! Could you have used a polyaspartic clear coat instead of the lacquer? Would this last longer? How often would lacquer have to be applied?
We tape up plastic sheeting and put down our liquid stain with pump sprayers, let it dry, then use hand sponges with a stronger concentration to add a second coat in random, yet consistent patterns. There's different techniques, and ultimately, the right way is the way the customer likes it. Our company makes up sample boards on 3'x3' concrete board. Texture and stain. The first sample is free, further samples have a nominal cost. This allows them to see and feel what we will do for them before they commit.
You could. It wouldn’t be ideal when you have to grind the paint off of the surface first though. It’s hard to get all of the paint out of the low spots on the concrete… staining it wouldn’t cover them. I also just like the texture of a troweled overlay. It’s nicer than ground concrete for an exterior patio.
Great work Tim. Really inspiring. I'm looking to do something similar. What is the difference between doing it your way vs using a self leveling concrete for resurfacing and then adding the stain.
Thanks! A troweled overlay has a more rustic feel to it. It has a texture that’s similar to Venetian plaster. A self leveling overlay would have more of a smooth & seamless feel to it. I personally haven’t been about to do a self leveling stained overlay without leaving application marks in the material from the gauge rake.
I would say the difference is in the product itself. Overlay mud is not about leveling. It's about texture. Leveling and any surface tweaking should be done prior to overlay.
I'm impressed like always. I'm in Iowa my open porch has acid stain with sealer. The sealer doesn't last but about a year then flakes off . How long does this brand of sealer normally last ? And how often do yah reapply? Thanks and great job guys !!
This was very helpful -- thank you, Tim. For a small area (maybe 5'x5'), is this a project a homeowner could DIY? We're having a new stamped/colored walkway being poured soon, but the gray concrete pad it leads to can't easily be removed/replaced. I'm thinking maybe I could do this process you showed, to make the color be a little closer to the new walkway.
Do some homework, and MAKE SURE TO PREP YOUR SURFACE! You'll want to do a good pressure wash, and then use a prep product like muriatic acid to etch the surface. Take your time and use tape and paper roll or plastic sheeting to protect surrounding surfaces too. You'll want to use a good bonding agent just before you put down your base coat. Make sure to use a concrete product suitable for overlay work, don't skimp and use the wrong stuff! For top coat, you'll want to tape lines which match your stamp patterns. Use a fiberglass reenforced tape (it will look like narrow masking tape), so you can pull your tape after your top coat sets. You want to use a thin coat; enough to cover your base coat well, but not too thick. Your texture is your preference. You can either use colored additive in your top coat, or stain, or both. Using a colored sealant will give you uniform color, colored mud and stain will give you a more dynamic texture to your color. Google, and search TH-cam. Watch videos, and ask questions in forums. You can learn all you need in two or three weekends, and from there, your process will take four or five days, with clear weather. If you use stain, you need to apply sealant the same day if it's going to rain. Make sure the stain is fully dry before applying your sealant. If the surface is too hot, or the sealant is laid down too thick, it can cause discoloration and "bubbles". A second coat of sealant after a couple hours is highly advised. Mix the color in your water for at least two good minutes before applying concrete powder, if you use color. Mix well, allow mix to settle a couple minutes before applying. Make sure surface is clean and dry before applying grout line tape, and walk your tape down good. Keep the surface dry prior to mud application so your tape adhesion doesn't fail. Sealants are usually solvent based, and so do not like water. Make sure everything is dry and stays dry two to three hours after applying sealant, so it doesn't get milky. Your mud will set up pretty quickly, spread it when wet, then keep watchful. Once it tightens up, apply your texture before it gets too hard. Spraying little water will reactivate it, but it can and will get away from you if you're not vigilant. Your base coat and top coat are the same formula. Get some sheetrock and practice your texture on that with a partial bag of product. It will waste a bag, but that's cheaper than winding up with a result you hate. Grinding it off and starting over will cost you no matter what. NEVER do a partial batch to finish out if you use pigment in your mud! It won't come out right. Use a whole bag of mud and full measure of pigment, and take the loss of the unused product. Consistency is key! Have fun with it! Your neighbors might pay you to do THEIR surfaces if it comes out right!
Hello, I have an event hall about 4,000 square feet halls and bathrooms included, is it a good idea to use metallic epoxy for high traffic areas ..? How long does it last..? Wine spills resistant .? 😂
Looks good guys. Nice job. Was there no broom / brush marks once the stain dried, I saw some while you were applying the stain but didn’t see any once you applied the sealer ? Did you have to sponge or dry mop Anything or it just all evaporated and no brush marks ?
Thanks! No there weren’t any marks. I think What you were seeing was the stain drying…. And it dried in a way that you could see how it was applied. Once it was completely dry there weren’t any brush marks.
You guys do great work. I'm looking to do something similar on my concrete front porch and steps. It's in pretty good shape with 3 hairline cracks that span from the front of the porch to the front wall of the house. Originally I never planned on doing a skim coat of resurfacer but I'm having trouble getting the repaired cracks to match the rest. It appears that the best way to get a uniform finish is to apply a fresh thin layer on top. I'm slightly intimidated because I'll be working alone and my porch is roughly 40'x10' plus the stairs. Also I'm not exactly sold on the durability of resurfacers. My porch is about 100 years old and I just can't see a resurfacer product lasting anywhere near that long. It seems inevitable for it to begin to crack/peel/flake off over time but maybe I'm wrong.
Be mindful-- cracks will transmit through layers laid above! There are products along the lines of two part epoxies, which when used with sand, and ground down after setting, will provide a suitable surface to put overlay on.
I notice some people just spray stain and then seal it whereas some spray stain and neutralize it with baking soda and scrub the stain and rinse with water before sealing it. Does both work?
This video is a water based concrete stain. If you want to learn more about acid stain you can watch this one: Why I Don't Like Acid Stained Concrete th-cam.com/video/SbqntCvjCvE/w-d-xo.html
Hey Tim, the color chart for Coffee on their color chart calls for 2 parts Mohag and 1 Onyx. I like that color in the video so I’m just wondering if you reversed it? Like your videos…….
Oh also. Do you sand the finish coat before staining or no hand sanding ? If not on this job because it was meant to be textured do you typically sand micro topping before staining (interior and or exterior)
Hi! Love your videos but I have stained and stamped concrete that always looks sooo dirty! No matter what I do to clean it is horrible. I am pretty sure the contractor did a horrible job. Not sure how to save it but it’s an eyesore next a beautiful redone pool and backyard. Please tell me what you suggest!
The first coat is just to get color down on the entire pad. The second coat is mostly for texture and doesn’t always cover 100% of the concrete. If you only did the texture coat, the thin/uncoated areas look a little weird when you stain them.
There are really capable do it yourself people out there and ones who might benefit from seeing a professional do it. For others they may decide this is too much for them and need to hire a professional. Your attitude kinda sucks.
It does not look good at all. I think the million chatter marks and only one color that was brushed,not sprayed on is why it looks this way. I know a micro coating is hard to get smooth without chatter but it's done all the time,and your short circular trowel motion was a bad idea or advice. I'm thinking maybe two color,your light tone then your dark tone like whats typically done when staining (not always but it makes it prettier). Not being a asshole or critique your work here guys I'm just stating the truth.
@@TimDCVA I disagree with him too. Extremely! And I have ZERO experience or knowledge about this stuff. Tonight is my first time looking into this stuff as I'm planning to stain my pool decks this coming year. But with my life experience and knowledge your work here in this vid looks great.😄🤦🏻♂️👏👌
My wonderful handyman just finished replacing the wood posts on my aggregate front porch due to dry rot and a cracked cement corner. He had to remove a large chunk of the concrete corner and repair. I’m getting ready to hire someone to either stain or epoxy and seal my front porch (cracked aggregate) and walkway for a uniform look. I really like this method and finish over any other so far. Thank you for your video. It will be helpful in making my decision. ❤
Confidence is the only thing stopping me from tackling this job on my back patio. After watching this I think I’m ready. Thanks from New Orleans.🎭
My wonderful handyman just finished replacing the wood posts on my aggregate front porch due to dry rot and a cracked cement corner. He had to remove a large chunk of the concrete corner and repair.
I’m getting ready to hire someone to either stain or epoxy and seal my front porch (cracked aggregate) and walkway for a uniform look. I really like this method and finish over any other so far.
Thank you for your video. It will be helpful in making my decision. ❤
Great video, Tim. Thanks for sharing your knowledge. Can’t wait to dive into the rest of your material. Love the podcast, too!
Thank you! Really appreciate the encouragement.
Incredible and gorgeous! I must add, it’s so refreshing to see people take pride in their work! Awesome 🎉
This stain brings the walls and the landscape together. Beautiful job
Thank you!
I'm on a crew doing this now. We do a light, uniform spray coat of stain, and follow up with hand sponge application of a more concentrated mix of the same color. It produces an irregular, yet consistent random variation.
We also almost always use tape to produce grout line/stamp patterns.
The customer decides, of course. But our surfaces trend towards modified skip trowel or magic trowel textures. There were wood patterns mentioned, but I have yet to get a chance to try that texture...but I REALLY wanna dip into that one! It looks beautiful if done correctly.
Not only is your concrete work great, your TH-cam editing skills are great too!😄👌👏👍 Very nice vid, thanks for the tips.
Haha. Thank you! 🙌🏼
The homeowner's must have been blown away!
They were very happy. 👍🏻👍🏻
You’ve got this down to a great process, I’ve never considered using a wet grinder as I always typically use a lavina with a dust collector. Awesome job!
Nice job Tim!
Thank you Mike. Really appreciate the encouragement. I really enjoyed seeing those two videos showing your process on garage floors over the past month. 👍🏻👍🏻
Fantastic job! Could you have used a polyaspartic clear coat instead of the lacquer? Would this last longer? How often would lacquer have to be applied?
the end result is awesome
I love it. Here in Trinidad we only get surecrete
Thanks!
Awesome job! Very professional work ever!
Quality work! Wonder if spraying on the stain would have been better?
I’m not sure. It definitely would have been easier. I think Westcoat wants us to brush it so that we don’t put it on too thick though.
You'd use more using a brush then spraying.
you would get overspray of stain on the brick walls with a sprayer , rollers have no spray
We tape up plastic sheeting and put down our liquid stain with pump sprayers, let it dry, then use hand sponges with a stronger concentration to add a second coat in random, yet consistent patterns.
There's different techniques, and ultimately, the right way is the way the customer likes it.
Our company makes up sample boards on 3'x3' concrete board. Texture and stain. The first sample is free, further samples have a nominal cost. This allows them to see and feel what we will do for them before they commit.
Turned out great!
Thanks Frank!
Looks great. That's a overlay system. Why couldn't you just staying over the existing concrete like acid stain or water base?
You could. It wouldn’t be ideal when you have to grind the paint off of the surface first though. It’s hard to get all of the paint out of the low spots on the concrete… staining it wouldn’t cover them.
I also just like the texture of a troweled overlay. It’s nicer than ground concrete for an exterior patio.
I would like to be trained/ competent in concrete overlay/epoxy/ polyaspartic floors
Great work Tim. Really inspiring. I'm looking to do something similar. What is the difference between doing it your way vs using a self leveling concrete for resurfacing and then adding the stain.
Thanks!
A troweled overlay has a more rustic feel to it. It has a texture that’s similar to Venetian plaster.
A self leveling overlay would have more of a smooth & seamless feel to it. I personally haven’t been about to do a self leveling stained overlay without leaving application marks in the material from the gauge rake.
I would say the difference is in the product itself. Overlay mud is not about leveling. It's about texture. Leveling and any surface tweaking should be done prior to overlay.
Not sure if I like the swirl marks. Would have preferred a uniform coat without streaks. Is this possible w a roller?
You could spray it or do multiple coats to get a color with less variation.
I'm impressed like always. I'm in Iowa my open porch has acid stain with sealer. The sealer doesn't last but about a year then flakes off . How long does this brand of sealer normally last ? And how often do yah reapply?
Thanks and great job guys !!
nice, great video
Thanks!
Awesome video Tim. What kind of tape did you use on the brick? Thanks so much
Gorilla brand duct tape. 👍🏻
@@TimDCVA awesome appreciate that!
How often do you have to re-seal the stained overlay concrete?
Once the stain dried, Did you have to dry broom before sealing?
This was very helpful -- thank you, Tim. For a small area (maybe 5'x5'), is this a project a homeowner could DIY? We're having a new stamped/colored walkway being poured soon, but the gray concrete pad it leads to can't easily be removed/replaced. I'm thinking maybe I could do this process you showed, to make the color be a little closer to the new walkway.
Do some homework, and MAKE SURE TO PREP YOUR SURFACE! You'll want to do a good pressure wash, and then use a prep product like muriatic acid to etch the surface. Take your time and use tape and paper roll or plastic sheeting to protect surrounding surfaces too.
You'll want to use a good bonding agent just before you put down your base coat. Make sure to use a concrete product suitable for overlay work, don't skimp and use the wrong stuff!
For top coat, you'll want to tape lines which match your stamp patterns. Use a fiberglass reenforced tape (it will look like narrow masking tape), so you can pull your tape after your top coat sets. You want to use a thin coat; enough to cover your base coat well, but not too thick. Your texture is your preference.
You can either use colored additive in your top coat, or stain, or both. Using a colored sealant will give you uniform color, colored mud and stain will give you a more dynamic texture to your color.
Google, and search TH-cam. Watch videos, and ask questions in forums. You can learn all you need in two or three weekends, and from there, your process will take four or five days, with clear weather.
If you use stain, you need to apply sealant the same day if it's going to rain. Make sure the stain is fully dry before applying your sealant. If the surface is too hot, or the sealant is laid down too thick, it can cause discoloration and "bubbles". A second coat of sealant after a couple hours is highly advised.
Mix the color in your water for at least two good minutes before applying concrete powder, if you use color. Mix well, allow mix to settle a couple minutes before applying.
Make sure surface is clean and dry before applying grout line tape, and walk your tape down good. Keep the surface dry prior to mud application so your tape adhesion doesn't fail.
Sealants are usually solvent based, and so do not like water. Make sure everything is dry and stays dry two to three hours after applying sealant, so it doesn't get milky.
Your mud will set up pretty quickly, spread it when wet, then keep watchful. Once it tightens up, apply your texture before it gets too hard. Spraying little water will reactivate it, but it can and will get away from you if you're not vigilant.
Your base coat and top coat are the same formula. Get some sheetrock and practice your texture on that with a partial bag of product. It will waste a bag, but that's cheaper than winding up with a result you hate. Grinding it off and starting over will cost you no matter what.
NEVER do a partial batch to finish out if you use pigment in your mud! It won't come out right. Use a whole bag of mud and full measure of pigment, and take the loss of the unused product. Consistency is key!
Have fun with it! Your neighbors might pay you to do THEIR surfaces if it comes out right!
Hello, I have an event hall about 4,000 square feet halls and bathrooms included, is it a good idea to use metallic epoxy for high traffic areas ..? How long does it last..? Wine spills resistant .? 😂
Great Vids Tim TY, got a question, some of the concrete preps only require power washing, what PSI you using to clean up surface ty...jimmy
Looks good guys. Nice job. Was there no broom / brush marks once the stain dried, I saw some while you were applying the stain but didn’t see any once you applied the sealer ? Did you have to sponge or dry mop Anything or it just all evaporated and no brush marks ?
Thanks!
No there weren’t any marks. I think What you were seeing was the stain drying…. And it dried in a way that you could see how it was applied. Once it was completely dry there weren’t any brush marks.
@@TimDCVA oh nice
Pretty cool
Thanks!
Hi Tim, is the concrete overlay necessary to achieve the same outcome?
Would you recommend staining the basement floor before framing and drywall etc.
Yes!
Just protect it with ram board.
You guys do great work. I'm looking to do something similar on my concrete front porch and steps. It's in pretty good shape with 3 hairline cracks that span from the front of the porch to the front wall of the house. Originally I never planned on doing a skim coat of resurfacer but I'm having trouble getting the repaired cracks to match the rest. It appears that the best way to get a uniform finish is to apply a fresh thin layer on top. I'm slightly intimidated because I'll be working alone and my porch is roughly 40'x10' plus the stairs. Also I'm not exactly sold on the durability of resurfacers. My porch is about 100 years old and I just can't see a resurfacer product lasting anywhere near that long. It seems inevitable for it to begin to crack/peel/flake off over time but maybe I'm wrong.
Be mindful-- cracks will transmit through layers laid above! There are products along the lines of two part epoxies, which when used with sand, and ground down after setting, will provide a suitable surface to put overlay on.
Is westcoat a direct online distributor (if so it looks like you have to contact them direct) or do I need to find a distributor for them?
Where can I buy the supplies? I clicked the link, but I don’t see any products for sale. Thanks!
I notice some people just spray stain and then seal it whereas some spray stain and neutralize it with baking soda and scrub the stain and rinse with water before sealing it. Does both work?
You are talking about two different products. Concrete dye/ water based stain doesn’t need to be rinsed… but acid stain does.
This video is a water based concrete stain. If you want to learn more about acid stain you can watch this one:
Why I Don't Like Acid Stained Concrete
th-cam.com/video/SbqntCvjCvE/w-d-xo.html
@@TimDCVA I see! My WB stain went on amazing, got it sealed up. Love itttttttttt
Awesome. 🙌🏻
Hey Tim, the color chart for Coffee on their color chart calls for 2 parts Mohag and 1 Onyx. I like that color in the video so I’m just wondering if you reversed it?
Like your videos…….
I followed whatever is on the chart when I did the job. I probably just said it wrong in the video. Thanks!
Thank you. The color looks great 👍🏻
Do you know of anyone who does this in South West Florida? Specifically Sarasota County?
Will Westcoast work on aggregate?
Do you mean exposed aggregate concrete? If so, yes…as long as it hasn’t been sealed.
Is the overlay a coating like a primer or is it a thin layer of concrete
It is a thin layer of concrete.
Tim would you share what sealer you use to seal the stained floors ?? Interior and exterior the same sealer ??
This one was Westcoat Acrylic Lacquer.
I have a video that shows what we use inside here:
th-cam.com/video/JKc340Nlo9M/w-d-xo.html
@@TimDCVA thank you sir big fan of your work !!! Appreciate you sharing your knowledge
I work in the field of epoxy floor paint
Can this stain be removed later ? Stripped?
Have you done this over heated concrete floors
Yes we have. It works well. I believe this one was over heated floors:
th-cam.com/video/lUXBnmtNI6c/w-d-xo.html
Thanks for the video. You added grit to the sealer. where would you find that?
Any coatings manufacturer sells it. Most lowes, Home Depot or Sherwin williams have it too.
@@TimDCVA Thanks for your reply.
Happy to help. 👍🏻
Nice job!
How long this overlay lasts?
Thanks! As long as the homeowner keeps it sealed up, it should last as long as the existing concrete.
Looking for someone in Georgia to do my cement deck. Do you know someone?
Awesome
Oh also. Do you sand the finish coat before staining or no hand sanding ? If not on this job because it was meant to be textured do you typically sand micro topping before staining (interior and or exterior)
We don’t usually sand the exterior projects. We did take a trowel and scrape any ridges that we saw on the patio.
@@TimDCVA what about interior ? When you sand and seal interior do you typically see more trowel burn in the finished overlay ?
I haven’t sanded the last few interior overlays that I’ve done. Usually just shaving high spots w a blade gets it smooth enough.
@@TimDCVA So the marginal improvement for a stronger bond for the sealer isn’t that significant in your opinion?
I want to learn this business is anybody hiring in California Los Angeles area in particular
Casa blanca fan remote reset
I like that product. Are you in the $6 to $7sft range?
$7-$8 usually.
@@TimDCVA cool. Do you have a prescense in So Calif?
No we don’t. Sorry.
Hi! Love your videos but I have stained and stamped concrete that always looks sooo dirty! No matter what I do to clean it is horrible. I am pretty sure the contractor did a horrible job. Not sure how to save it but it’s an eyesore next a beautiful redone pool and backyard. Please tell me what you suggest!
Get a contractor out there. It could be bad sealant, or a few other things. Eyes on it will lead to a better result that words can offer.
What is the name of the machine you used at 15 seconds?
What is material cost per sq ft?
Do u sell the westcoat products?
No I don’t sell any physical products.
Je travaille dans le domaine de la peinture à plancher époxy
No Neutralizer Amonia
Any reason you skimmed twice
The first coat is just to get color down on the entire pad. The second coat is mostly for texture and doesn’t always cover 100% of the concrete.
If you only did the texture coat, the thin/uncoated areas look a little weird when you stain them.
How can ı contact with you?
My website. www.decorativeconcreteofvirginia.com
A “do it yourself “ that is being done by professionals? C’mon!
There are really capable do it yourself people out there and ones who might benefit from seeing a professional do it. For others they may decide this is too much for them and need to hire a professional. Your attitude kinda sucks.
😂😂😂😂😂😂
Where are you reading "do it yourself"?
У нас такая работа стоит 5$ за 1м2
Not a fan.
It does not look good at all. I think the million chatter marks and only one color that was brushed,not sprayed on is why it looks this way. I know a micro coating is hard to get smooth without chatter but it's done all the time,and your short circular trowel motion was a bad idea or advice. I'm thinking maybe two color,your light tone then your dark tone like whats typically done when staining (not always but it makes it prettier). Not being a asshole or critique your work here guys I'm just stating the truth.
I disagree with everything you said… but I do appreciate the insight.
@@TimDCVA I disagree with him too. Extremely! And I have ZERO experience or knowledge about this stuff. Tonight is my first time looking into this stuff as I'm planning to stain my pool decks this coming year. But with my life experience and knowledge your work here in this vid looks great.😄🤦🏻♂️👏👌
Thank you! 🙏🏻
Syck sure ut didnt last long those laquer sealers never last longer then a couple of years if your lucky.
My wonderful handyman just finished replacing the wood posts on my aggregate front porch due to dry rot and a cracked cement corner. He had to remove a large chunk of the concrete corner and repair.
I’m getting ready to hire someone to either stain or epoxy and seal my front porch (cracked aggregate) and walkway for a uniform look. I really like this method and finish over any other so far.
Thank you for your video. It will be helpful in making my decision. ❤