You are some kind of an amazing craftsman. I've been working on bikes for 30 years off and on and you are the best I've every seen; your instructions and provided clarity is just so on point. Thank you sir!!!
Another awesome video. You have a very good knack of explaining in simple terms both visually and verbally, which is very reminiscent of my old engineering mentor when I was an apprentice toolmaker many moons ago. Keep up the good work it must take you hours to put these video’s together 👍
Great detailed video with clear views. Going to save this for future reference. You missed out one of the washers when you pulled out the transmission at 39mins.
Excellent video. Can be used as an official KTM training video. This is far too involved for even the most skilled of us. For those who are ambitious to tackle on a job like this, I highly recommend to take a video of each step of the disassembly to remember what came from where and in what otder.
Great video. To remove the rotor nut I used my holding tool on the clutch side before I removed those nuts. Those collars are cool too. That is a weak point of that stand but it was reasonably priced so I made do. Looking forward to the assembly video
Thanks. Yes, I made engine mount collars to fit both sides on each mount so all the slop was taken out and the engine held securely. I'll make a video showing the setup as others may find it useful...
Amazing and terrifying at the same time. Videoing this in detail would be my only hope is getting it back - how the old-school guys did it is beyond me.
Really enjoyed this video and you have a great voice to go with it. I’m a mechanic as well but I’ve yet to work on KTM’s so I wanted to check this out and you’re making it look easy for everyone at home that doesn’t know how to do any of this. Great vid 🤙🏻
Awesome detailed video! I’m trying to find the “video description” to find the link to the special tools used . Can someone point me in the right direction?
Awesome vid as always! I did my bottom end 2 months ago on my 300 at 430hrs. I wonder how did you get your engine so clean...was it before you removed it from the bike or you somehow sealed all openings and cleaned it thoroughly after? I found cleaning effort was the LOOOONGEST part of the whole endeavour. I wanted to give all cases to the local car service shop for cleaning in their industrial parts washing machine, however as I was exchanging only the crankshaft bearings, they said the process would destroy all other bearings left in the cases. I had damage in my stator cover (small crack and chewed housing around the bendix bushing) and I managed to repair it without replacing the cover. I reinforced the area around the bushing housing with metal epoxy, then drilled a 12mm diameter hole of right depth and pressed in a common 8mm long 8-12mm industrial brass bushing...so far so good...
I washed the bike normally first. Then used a water/dish soap spray and cloth while removing the engine from the bike. Once the engine was removed from the bike and mounted on the engine stand I cleaned it completely using parts cleaner and a tooth brush and cloth. I probably spent about 30mins cleaning it up...
Great video as always, very helpful! I wonder in what intervall you hone your cylinder or if you just replace your piston 1 or 2 times normally before honing Greetings from Germany!
Yes, the next video (Part 3) will be me rebuilding the crankshaft. I'm going to use a Pro-X conrod. The video after that (Part 4) will be me truing the newly rebuilt crankshaft.
Excellent video! It convinced me to overhaul the bottom of bike myself next time instead of bringing it to my dealer. One question though: I bought a similar engine stand as yours. How does it hold when loosen or tighten the primary gear on the crankshaft and the nut of the clutch? Even when the engine is still in the frame I really have to put a lot of force to tighten it properly. Did you fix the stand to your bench?
Hi mark, i have the same bike just the regular modle not six days. I download the owner manual but can't find the repair manual where can I find it? Any link? Thanks for all the videos
I purchased the repair manual for my 2017 from my local KTM dealer (CD). You can also purchase repair manuals online and I recently made this video about the purchase of a 2020 manual: th-cam.com/video/F1LddyYoP0Q/w-d-xo.html
Awesome detailed guide! Question: How many hrs should one put on a KTM 250/300 cylinder, 2 or 3 pistons/ 275 hrs? Seen your style of riding, similar to mine. Also recall you are on your 2nd cylinder at 456H. Just wondering if you had it to do over, would you tighten your piston replacement internals or stretch them? Thx!!
For the riding I do I think 150H piston replacement interval is fine. I think 450H for the cylinder is probably a good time to inspect it carefully and decide whether it needs replating.
I had planned to make it last week, but discovered a problem with the crankshaft press jig I’ve purchased (machined slightly too small and crankshaft webs won’t fit in it). This is super annoying as I’d waited 5 months for delivery of the jig! I’m not confidently that the supplier can address this in a timely manner so (have been waiting for a response) so thinking I’ll machine it to the correct size myself. Has been very frustrating as everything else is ready...
I decided that I can't wait any longer. I machined the crankshaft press jig myself yesterday and the crankshaft fits perfectly in it now. Still waiting for a response from KTM (via the shop) regarding why the jig was machined to the wrong size. I'm filming the crankshaft disassembly right now. If all goes to plan the video will be ready tomorrow...
Tokyo Offroad i can see from your type of riding that the bike is just ticking over a lot of the time with very short bursts of power, i guess an mx bike pinned around a track would probably have half the life on a bottom end?
@@Brass-and-Bullets - Yes exactly, the more you stress the engine and longer you have it wide open, the shorter the overhaul intervals are going to be. The same is true for top end overhauls. None the less, the 2-stroke engines do seem to last a long time and I've heard of very few issues, even for race use.
Tokyo Offroad Thanks! might be good after your part 5 to do a part 6 “break in and initial first ride” unless you haven’t already got that covered in part 5.
@@mt1885 - I purchased the gear puller for a local tool shop called Straight Tool Company in Japan for about US$7. It has a maximum capacity of 75mm and worked well on the 55mm diameter primary gear.
Tokyo Offroad did you have any issues getting hold of the official ktm tools? My local dealers don't want to sell any of the special tools to the public! So frustrating!
Insufficient lubrication, or debris are likely causes. Regular transmission oil changes will help and ensure you don't have an oil leak so the level stays correct. If it has good lubrication and the bearings are OK the primary gear should last a very long time with normal off-road use. Note that Supermoto use on-road with grippy tires will be harder on the engine in general.
I mean my bike has done 456H and I chose to overhaul the bottom end. In the video I do some checks on the bottom end and it seems to still be in good shape, so you could go longer. I discuss this in the video. I prefer doing preventative maintenance, when it's convenient for me, rather than waiting for something to break. For reference, the KTM recommended interval for replacing the conrod and all the bearings in the bottom is every 80H, or 40H if used for motor sport!
Perhaps showing alternate methods without expensive tools would help the DIY guys that will probably only do one rebuild in their lives. Makes no sense to spend hundreds of dollars in tools that you will only use once or special tools that you made using your lathe as most people don't have access to this.
Adrian - The tools I make and sell on the Tokyo Offroad web site were developed to ease maintenance tasks while working on bikes myself. I do not develop tool as a money making exercise. The only tool Tokyo Offroad made tool I showed and used in this video was the piston pin removal tool ($19.99). If you don’t want to buy this tool you can use something which fits inside, but you’ll find that you need 3 hands (as you need to hold the piston, whatever tool you have and the hammer.
The correct tools for a job is what separates the men from the boys. Even if you bought every tool new for just for one job your still money ahead from the shop doing it. ( And you don't have some high school kid doing it) You can also buy and sale it on eBay/CL to cut cost.
The bike in the video is actually a carburetor model 2017 KTM 250 EXC. But the TPI engine is basically the same with the addition of a fuel injector on each side of the engine, some extra sensors and a throttle body instead of the carb. I have a TPI bike too (2019 KTM 250 TPI), but it is still relatively low hours (84H) and won't need the bottom end overhauling for a long time (about 500H).
Mate you are unrivaled in the level of detail yet simple approach to doing this task, this is a fantastic contribution to the KTM community!
You are some kind of an amazing craftsman. I've been working on bikes for 30 years off and on and you are the best I've every seen; your instructions and provided clarity is just so on point. Thank you sir!!!
Another awesome video. You have a very good knack of explaining in simple terms both visually and verbally, which is very reminiscent of my old engineering mentor when I was an apprentice toolmaker many moons ago. Keep up the good work it must take you hours to put these video’s together 👍
Those were a very well spent 39 minutes of my life :)
Thank you, Mark!
Seriously there’s 1 unlike? Who can unlike this mans videos?!!! They are very informative and help us riders ALOT!
It's from a angry bike mechanic
Is from a jealous jerk, I guess
Another awesome vid. Spoke to Mark about starter replacement. Dropped me this vid. Saved me allot of work. Top Job 👍👍
Thanks! I'm pleased that you found the video useful. The starter motor collar is difficult to know it's there unless you already know about it...
Brilliant tutorial. Thank you. 450 hours on a bottom end? That is very good and shows how cautious the manual is for this.
One of the best "step by step how to do" vídeo. You just deserve me subscribing. Fantastic and thanks
Love your bolt template trick! 👍
That cardboard idea is genius
Wow Mark!!! Great video ! Very complex and looking forward to see it all back together! Well done !
Superb quality video, as always. Looking forward for the next one!
Absolutely the best KTM/Husky instructional videoes. Complete Pro!!
Thanks! Pleased that you like the videos...
Great detailed video with clear views. Going to save this for future reference. You missed out one of the washers when you pulled out the transmission at 39mins.
Thanks. Yes, I saw the washer after I finished filming. It is present and accounted for :-)
Great editing, easy to follow, loved the template for the bolts.
Wow!! Fantastic🤘👌 Awsome detailed video and great camera angle work👍 Good job and cant wait for part 3😉✌
Great stuff
Looks like it's never been underwater, I think these things are better than sliced bread
No, luckily I don't need to do any deep water crossings in the areas I ride. Plenty of shallow streams, but not deep enough to submerge the engine...
Excellent video. Can be used as an official KTM training video. This is far too involved for even the most skilled of us. For those who are ambitious to tackle on a job like this, I highly recommend to take a video of each step of the disassembly to remember what came from where and in what otder.
Thank You, i'm learning something interesting, and you sir are a good teacher!
Thanks for sharing this video.. so details until finish
Great video. To remove the rotor nut I used my holding tool on the clutch side before I removed those nuts. Those collars are cool too. That is a weak point of that stand but it was reasonably priced so I made do. Looking forward to the assembly video
Thanks. Yes, I made engine mount collars to fit both sides on each mount so all the slop was taken out and the engine held securely. I'll make a video showing the setup as others may find it useful...
Another great video! keep them coming please learnt so much watching your videos 👍👍
Looks like i need to check your web page again for some more tools 👍👍👍
Thank you :-)
Amazing and terrifying at the same time. Videoing this in detail would be my only hope is getting it back - how the old-school guys did it is beyond me.
u just pull it apart and lay it out in a way that u can remember how to put it back together and pull it apart on the day you are going to rebuild it
Really enjoyed this video and you have a great voice to go with it. I’m a mechanic as well but I’ve yet to work on KTM’s so I wanted to check this out and you’re making it look easy for everyone at home that doesn’t know how to do any of this. Great vid 🤙🏻
Amazing video, thanks for posting this! Now I am only *mostly* intimidated by the thought of doing this :)
Another awesome vid!
Awesome detailed video! I’m trying to find the “video description” to find the link to the special tools used . Can someone point me in the right direction?
Awesome vid as always! I did my bottom end 2 months ago on my 300 at 430hrs. I wonder how did you get your engine so clean...was it before you removed it from the bike or you somehow sealed all openings and cleaned it thoroughly after? I found cleaning effort was the LOOOONGEST part of the whole endeavour. I wanted to give all cases to the local car service shop for cleaning in their industrial parts washing machine, however as I was exchanging only the crankshaft bearings, they said the process would destroy all other bearings left in the cases.
I had damage in my stator cover (small crack and chewed housing around the bendix bushing) and I managed to repair it without replacing the cover. I reinforced the area around the bushing housing with metal epoxy, then drilled a 12mm diameter hole of right depth and pressed in a common 8mm long 8-12mm industrial brass bushing...so far so good...
I washed the bike normally first. Then used a water/dish soap spray and cloth while removing the engine from the bike. Once the engine was removed from the bike and mounted on the engine stand I cleaned it completely using parts cleaner and a tooth brush and cloth. I probably spent about 30mins cleaning it up...
great video, watched it all the way trough and im glad to see that ur engine is in such good shape afther so many hours :D
Spot on. Very easy to follow guide.
The people who design an manufactur these engines r smart cookies.
Nicely detailled video, Thanks. An advice, if you don't want to spend money on some special tools, use a impact wrench
Yes, impact works OK for loosening, but you still need a holding tool for tightening to the specified torque...
Great video as always, very helpful!
I wonder in what intervall you hone your cylinder or if you just replace your piston 1 or 2 times normally before honing
Greetings from Germany!
Quality editing
Jesus Mark, the KTM engineers trying to get one on you is like trying to sneak a sunrise past a Rooster!!
LOL
I just love your videos...I use them as my service manual...can you tell me were you got those trays?
Pleased to hear that you like the videos. I purchased most of the trays many years ago from a 100yen store (dollar shop) in Japan
Great vidéo as always , thanks Mark :)
Super cool 2 stroke engine! #thumbsup
Wow ....all I can really say is thank u 🙏
Thanks for the great videos!
Where did you get the repair manuals for the engine?
Cheers!
Pleased to hear that you enjoy the videos. Repair manuals are available for all year models from KTM here: print.ktm.com/
Wow, thanks, I didn't know you can even get those. Is there any hope they're available somewhere for free as well?
You are rebuilding your own crankshaft? I'm looking forward to that video.
Yes, the next video (Part 3) will be me rebuilding the crankshaft. I'm going to use a Pro-X conrod. The video after that (Part 4) will be me truing the newly rebuilt crankshaft.
Excellent video! It convinced me to overhaul the bottom of bike myself next time instead of bringing it to my dealer. One question though: I bought a similar engine stand as yours. How does it hold when loosen or tighten the primary gear on the crankshaft and the nut of the clutch? Even when the engine is still in the frame I really have to put a lot of force to tighten it properly. Did you fix the stand to your bench?
I'm pleased that you enjoyed the video. I clamped the stand to my bench using some G-clamps when undoing the primary gear nut. It worked well...
Good work!!
Awesome machine
Great job, thanks for sharing 😁
what is the make of your rachets ? I didn't found it on the web. Awesome video by the way keep on !
NEPROS th-cam.com/video/aMOmvw1cAhw/w-d-xo.html
Hi mark, i have the same bike just the regular modle not six days.
I download the owner manual but can't find the repair manual where can I find it? Any link? Thanks for all the videos
I purchased the repair manual for my 2017 from my local KTM dealer (CD). You can also purchase repair manuals online and I recently made this video about the purchase of a 2020 manual: th-cam.com/video/F1LddyYoP0Q/w-d-xo.html
Best video 🤟🏻👍🏻
I love you contents 👌
2-stroke power is unique
Great video!
At 450 hours, was the original hour meter/speedo still working well?
Yes, the speedo works fine. I did replace the sensor/cable assembly once though.
@@TokyoOffroad Great! Cant wait to see how long you keep this bike for and how high the hours reach.
Awesome detailed guide! Question: How many hrs should one put on a KTM 250/300 cylinder, 2 or 3 pistons/ 275 hrs? Seen your style of riding, similar to mine. Also recall you are on your 2nd cylinder at 456H. Just wondering if you had it to do over, would you tighten your piston replacement internals or stretch them? Thx!!
For the riding I do I think 150H piston replacement interval is fine. I think 450H for the cylinder is probably a good time to inspect it carefully and decide whether it needs replating.
You might also be interested in this video in which I measure and compare new and used cylinders: th-cam.com/video/VnVosSuFY-E/w-d-xo.html
@@TokyoOffroad Most helpful. Thank you!
When’s part 3 coming Mark? Cheers
I had planned to make it last week, but discovered a problem with the crankshaft press jig I’ve purchased (machined slightly too small and crankshaft webs won’t fit in it). This is super annoying as I’d waited 5 months for delivery of the jig! I’m not confidently that the supplier can address this in a timely manner so (have been waiting for a response) so thinking I’ll machine it to the correct size myself. Has been very frustrating as everything else is ready...
Very frustrating indeed. Thanks for update, I will keep my eye out for it hopefully you don’t have to wait to long for the parts 👍
I decided that I can't wait any longer. I machined the crankshaft press jig myself yesterday and the crankshaft fits perfectly in it now. Still waiting for a response from KTM (via the shop) regarding why the jig was machined to the wrong size. I'm filming the crankshaft disassembly right now. If all goes to plan the video will be ready tomorrow...
That’s great news, i shall look
Forward to watching.
Keep up the good work 👍
where do buy the XRC stator cover ?
Great vid, did not think a bottom end would do 450 hours.. guess it all depends on the type of riding you do.
The KTM bottom ends seem to last very well. But yes, it will depend on the type of riding you do...
Tokyo Offroad i can see from your type of riding that the bike is just ticking over a lot of the time with very short bursts of power, i guess an mx bike pinned around a track would probably have half the life on a bottom end?
@@Brass-and-Bullets - Yes exactly, the more you stress the engine and longer you have it wide open, the shorter the overhaul intervals are going to be. The same is true for top end overhauls. None the less, the 2-stroke engines do seem to last a long time and I've heard of very few issues, even for race use.
Tokyo Offroad Thanks! might be good after your part 5 to do a part 6 “break in and initial first ride” unless you haven’t already got that covered in part 5.
TJC 89 - Part 6 will be installing a 300 kit. But yes, I’ll definitely make a first ride video...
Hi Tokyo Offroad where you get your stainless trays from? GREAT VIDEO KTM #1 👍👍👍
I got many of the trays years ago from a 100yen shop (dollar store) in Japan...
@@TokyoOffroad Thank you Toyko Offroads I found them and order them - EXCELLENT videos!!! What brand gear puller you use and do you got link to it?
@@mt1885 - I purchased the gear puller for a local tool shop called Straight Tool Company in Japan for about US$7. It has a maximum capacity of 75mm and worked well on the 55mm diameter primary gear.
@@TokyoOffroad Thank you Tokyo Offroad will look for one roughly that size. 👍
Muy bien espectacular 👍
Tokyo Offroad did you have any issues getting hold of the official ktm tools? My local dealers don't want to sell any of the special tools to the public! So frustrating!
No, although lead time on some of the tools was very long.
If having problems ordering from your local dealer then try ordering online...
popcorn time
Respect!👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
Sir can I know what causing the primary gear to worn out ?
Insufficient lubrication, or debris are likely causes. Regular transmission oil changes will help and ensure you don't have an oil leak so the level stays correct. If it has good lubrication and the bearings are OK the primary gear should last a very long time with normal off-road use. Note that Supermoto use on-road with grippy tires will be harder on the engine in general.
ill never understand why they put the starter where they did knowing its very inferior and will need replaced...
What do you mean after 456 hours ? You have to change your crank shift after 456 hours
I mean my bike has done 456H and I chose to overhaul the bottom end. In the video I do some checks on the bottom end and it seems to still be in good shape, so you could go longer. I discuss this in the video. I prefer doing preventative maintenance, when it's convenient for me, rather than waiting for something to break. For reference, the KTM recommended interval for replacing the conrod and all the bearings in the bottom is every 80H, or 40H if used for motor sport!
How many ads do you need on a 30min video?
Where did you get those metal trays?
Purchased them years ago, most from a 100yen store in Tokyo.
Is this your first bottom end ?
Yes, it has done 456H on the same bottom end with no issues I could detect.
@@TokyoOffroad Nice! Didnt knew it would last that long.
good
Iv got a ktm 300 exc tpi six days.
👍🏽
Where can I buy the tools?
li li - The KTM special tools you can order online, or order at your local KTM dealer.
Perhaps showing alternate methods without expensive tools would help the DIY guys that will probably only do one rebuild in their lives. Makes no sense to spend hundreds of dollars in tools that you will only use once or special tools that you made using your lathe as most people don't have access to this.
Adrian - The tools I make and sell on the Tokyo Offroad web site were developed to ease maintenance tasks while working on bikes myself. I do not develop tool as a money making exercise. The only tool Tokyo Offroad made tool I showed and used in this video was the piston pin removal tool ($19.99). If you don’t want to buy this tool you can use something which fits inside, but you’ll find that you need 3 hands (as you need to hold the piston, whatever tool you have and the hammer.
The correct tools for a job is what separates the men from the boys.
Even if you bought every tool new for just for one job your still money ahead from the shop doing it. ( And you don't have some high school kid doing it) You can also buy and sale it on eBay/CL to cut cost.
Is that the first time you have done a big end on a tpi
The bike in the video is actually a carburetor model 2017 KTM 250 EXC. But the TPI engine is basically the same with the addition of a fuel injector on each side of the engine, some extra sensors and a throttle body instead of the carb. I have a TPI bike too (2019 KTM 250 TPI), but it is still relatively low hours (84H) and won't need the bottom end overhauling for a long time (about 500H).