@@Maminka60 Hi Shane, I used QUIKRETE high strength concrete mix. No. 1101 60 pound bag. After troweling, I lightly tapped sides of the 2" x 4" forms to settle the gravel below the surface. I did use a little less water than they recommend so the mix would be stiff and hold it's shape. I watched and waited until the glossy surface turned dull. Then used the small whisk broom for the finish.
Greetings, can u explain (or make a video) in the simplest way how u make the template with 3 screws u put in the wet concrete, please? I want to make a concrete pad for a new mailbox that is on a pedestal with 4 base screws. I read the description but I'm still not getting it. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the question. I made this template from scrap steel. Plywood would have been better as it is stiff. I traced the outline of the light base and hole locations with a pencil, used a center punch to locate the center of the holes and drilled. Used longer carriage bolts with nuts on top side of template. PVC water pipe was used for the spacers. I left them extra-long to smooth the wet concrete under the template. I let the concrete set for a week, removed the template then trimmed the spacers flush with the concrete with a 4 1/2" grinder. Bolted the lamp post on and used the grinder to trim the bolts to length.
@K T I really appreciate u responding, you're a true hero! What about the smoothness of the PVC? Would it eventually lose the grip of the concrete in the future? What's the downside of just putting the screw without any PVC?
@@1KingD I pushed the PVC all the way to the bottom of the concrete with the bolt installed. If the bolts ever rust, I can replace them. The PVC was used to form the hole for the bolts and is just a spacer. The bolt heads are flush on the bottom, so they act as a clamp for the concrete pad and are not dependent to be held by the concrete. A "J-bolt" would also work without the PVC.
Did you want to make this moveable? I’m curious why no anchor footing into the ground? I’d personally put a hole about 18” into the ground below it, rebar it, and concrete it in to make it permanent.
Thanks for this question, JT. I didn't want it in a permanent location. It has been moved to a few different places in the yard as the plants have grown. I have watched it in gusts of 65 + mph winds, no swaying, no movement. After the same winds I have had to re-install concrete roof tiles. Over the years I have seen lights and posts with footings shift off vertical. The only ways to correct that is to dig the concrete out and replace it or re-shim the post. This way doesn't require a building, electrical permit.
This is certainly the most informative and user friendly instructions I have experienced regarding this subject. Not to mention easy on the wallet!!
@@KT111 What kind of concrete did u use to get the smooth finish??
@@Maminka60 Hi Shane,
I used QUIKRETE high strength concrete mix. No. 1101 60 pound bag. After troweling, I lightly tapped sides of the 2" x 4" forms to settle the gravel below the surface. I did use a little less water than they recommend so the mix would be stiff and hold it's shape. I watched and waited until the glossy surface turned dull. Then used the small whisk broom for the finish.
Just solved my problem. Thanks!
Thank you.
I needed this! Thanks for teaching me.
@@dr.lanellturner798 Thanks for watching.
I love TH-cam, love the blog & the music.
Thank You.
Greetings, can u explain (or make a video) in the simplest way how u make the template with 3 screws u put in the wet concrete, please? I want to make a concrete pad for a new mailbox that is on a pedestal with 4 base screws. I read the description but I'm still not getting it. Thanks in advance!
Thanks for the question. I made this template from scrap steel. Plywood would have been better as it is stiff. I traced the outline of the light base and hole locations with a pencil, used a center punch to locate the center of the holes and drilled. Used longer carriage bolts with nuts on top side of template. PVC water pipe was used for the spacers. I left them extra-long to smooth the wet concrete under the template. I let the concrete set for a week, removed the template then trimmed the spacers flush with the concrete with a 4 1/2" grinder. Bolted the lamp post on and used the grinder to trim the bolts to length.
@K T
I really appreciate u responding, you're a true hero!
What about the smoothness of the PVC? Would it eventually lose the grip of the concrete in the future? What's the downside of just putting the screw without any PVC?
@@1KingD I pushed the PVC all the way to the bottom of the concrete with the bolt installed. If the bolts ever rust, I can replace them. The PVC was used to form the hole for the bolts and is just a spacer. The bolt heads are flush on the bottom, so they act as a clamp for the concrete pad and are not dependent to be held by the concrete. A "J-bolt" would also work without the PVC.
@@KT111
You deserve my subscription!
@@1KingD Thank you.
Did you want to make this moveable? I’m curious why no anchor footing into the ground? I’d personally put a hole about 18” into the ground below it, rebar it, and concrete it in to make it permanent.
Thanks for this question, JT. I didn't want it in a permanent location. It has been moved to a few different places in the yard as the plants have grown. I have watched it in gusts of 65 + mph winds, no swaying, no movement. After the same winds I have had to re-install concrete roof tiles. Over the years I have seen lights and posts with footings shift off vertical. The only ways to correct that is to dig the concrete out and replace it or re-shim the post. This way doesn't require a building, electrical permit.
@@bettysuffle Thanks for watching the video.
what type of concrete u used
Quikrete part number 1101 high strength, 60-pound bag.