While turning straight shafts on the lathe you should be using an 80deg insert and helps to have a chip breaker on the tool... i know your on a smaller lathe and dont have as much torque but it would deff benefit the machine and lasts alpt longer so benefits the wallet as well.. seeing that spray cheese comin from the part instead of broken crackers made me cringe a lil!!
Turn the cone out of a piece of hex stock and leave a section of hex under the cone. This will let you clamp the hand vise in another vise in one of six positions.
Nice dude. You can never go wrong with being able to index a thing in another thing at an approximately known relative angle. And being a hand vice I'm sure the hex stock is going to be an obvious advantage despite the limited precision of the stock.
This dudes voice and style of explaining things is the best part of the videos, so soothing lol. 3k views and 300 likes is way too low and rude of viewers not to like after watching. IMO. 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video! An easy Tipp for you, when you are pening the brass pins (or whatever pins you might be using in the future) drill you hole and then drill a little countersink on both sides so when you are mushrooming it over the material will spread and it will be a lot safer in there. Keep going with your projects. Always a pleasure to watch!
A polite suggestion - for coating wood, try Pale Boiled Linseed Oil - dries fast and provides a superior comfort and grip and protective qualities to wood. Not expensive either :)
One thing you can do with jewellers vices is have a hole that runs all the way through the tool and is open at the bottom of the handle. Having a hole run through the center opens up more options for use.
You can turn almost anything into a suitable scraper for woodturning, old files, etc. A small or medium sized round nose scraper will see you through most basic wood turning projects without much time to learn how to get good results. Just be careful about too much stick out and engagement if you are using something brittle.
Cool idea with the superglue (16:08). Handy tip for turning resilient materials... Try tossing it in the freezer for a couple of hours. Be careful with the mount as metal will expand as it warms up, but latex based compounds generally expand as you cool them down.
An interesting project would be a ball vice. I'd use a basketball rigged up with ducttape in a wooden fre, cut a funnel hole and add some mesh, then vast some bent threaded bar in place with concrete. From there, you can trim and add a threaded sleeve to attach the jewellers or other vices. Cut a tapered hole in a short wooden stool of desired height to sit on the bench top and you'll have a sturdy base
As a machinist that works with stainless for a living, including 316 and the super duplex SAF like 2205 and 2507. It's funny watching you able to only do .5mm cuts when I'm so used to ripping 10-12mm cuts on it. Great video anyway man keep up the great work
Thank you so much for all your work and the content you create. It is very useful informative material. Also thank you so much for all your help in general.
I have one of the exact type of jeweller's hand vise you made. Then only thing I wished is that the jaws weren't locked in place, where they could rotate to accommodate different shapes and to hold square parts of different sizes since the large the jaws are open, the more crooked they are.
@@Avram42 even just having the jaws not locked in place and being able to pivot would help too. A parallel linkage would be pretty cool but a bit more work. My favorite type of hand vises are the "machinist" style, basically like a tiny bench vise on a handle but they are hard to find and the used ones I found on eBay a pretty expensive for what they are. I've been thinking about machining one, they're not that complicated to make.
nice job! I suppose you just change the angle you machine on the face on the jaw if you are looking to clamp material of a uniform size. You could even make little jaw plate inserts tapered at different angles to swap out if you wanted to.
I have never seen a half-center before. What stops it from drilling like a d-bit? Can these be used with steel? Over 30 years of machining, I've never seen such a helpful and simple tool
I like how that one came out. brilliant job👍if I may give a tip. at the part you had the clamp levers glued together to drill the holes, this is where a vice position stop would come in handy a simple article slotted to fit on the jaw of your miĺls vice grub screw to lock it in place any position to work in conjunction with your parallels. reference to Joe Piezinski from Austin Texas, Advanced Innovations being his machine shop business. i have made my stop recently
I doubt it was just the center drill, the glue would be quite weak after all the heat buildup when sanding... Heat destroys CA. terrific video and project though!
Mate, you need a welder. That should be your next purchase, a multiprocess welding machine that can do MiG, DC TiG and MMA. It'll be one of the most useful pieces of kit you have.
Hi, about case hardening - there is a great stuff, named "KASENITE" - it is great for fast, surface hardening of steel pieces. It introduces both carbon and nitrogen to surface, I found it very useful in my workshop - you need only a burner and cooling agent (usually water). It is hard to get it now, but I think it is worth to try.
I absolutely hate trying to drill, machine or work stainless steel, I've never tried and not broken bits or blades working with it and so I have come to just use 5150 steel or other hardenable and make sure to oil or paint it after I'm done. I live in the Southeast US and to say we have high humidity is an understatement.
Maybe I missed it, but if you milled a small V into the opposite face of the jaws it could be reversible to hold onto round material. I guess you'd have to sacrifice the sleek form factor, but you'd have additional function.
8:52 no hard and fast rule about this, but for a part that narrow, there's not real reason to have so much extension on that fly cutter, it doesnt need to be set for the maximum possible flycut diameter. With the cutter set way back, you have much less of an eccentricity in the load, and machine performance should go up slightly and vibration go down, but if the mill is rigid enough i suppose its not a problem. Looks like a ton of stickout though.
I enjoyed your video, but why on earth did you fix the jaws to the arms? 🤔 If you used pivot pins on the jaws they could stay parallel when gripping different sized objects.
Nicely done. Would it have been better to only put 1 pin on each jaw so they can rotate and be parallel even with something clamped between? Or would that have caused issues?
Very nice project, mate. But please build a yourself a dedicated disc sander. You will always get grit on the lathe guideways and you will regret it afterwards.
Cheers, once I get a bigger place there might be space for one. As for now this works, as long as I clean all the grit off. Anyway it's a $600 lathe so I don't mind doing stuff like this on it.
Nice project as always - I didn't realise they were (relatively) straight forward to make and I've been lusting after one for some time. With regard to the jaws, shouldn't they hinge? I wonder because unless you're gripping something very thin they're going to be bell-mouthed if they are perpendicular to the arms?
I made this to hold a specific thickness of stock with these jaws so when they are parallel they will be holding the stock correctly. Normally you would want to make it slightly convex.
I've got one of these and can testify to its usefulness. Mine is old - 50 years plus I'd say - with no manufacturer's name, so with every appearance of being home-made, and bought for next to nothing from a market stall. It doesn't have a wooden handle - the cone is just extended downwards, with a neck cut out for ease of use and knurling on the remainder to give some grip. That extra weight in the handle I suspect also improves the balance in the hand. I don't think rotating jaws are a good idea - these hand clamps are mostly used for very small parts and it would be irritating to have the jaws moving away from the part as you're trying to grip it. A very slight convex is possible, but mine just meet at the end - they're parallel at about 5 mms separation, and that works well. I'm also not so sure about stainless - very hard and liable to mark parts in soft materials such as brass, aluminium alloy etc. Mine is a very soft steel, which is less prone to that, and has acquired a lovely patina over the years, which stainless is never going to do :¬) It does have a vertical V groove in one jaw, which is essential for holding rods and pins. The pivot pins are also steel, not brass, just peened over like rivets after assembly.
the press fit of the bolt pins in the clamping jaws, etc. would have been a lot easier if you had put the bolts and the screw in the freezer for 24-48 hours and heated the counterparts to 200 - 250 degrees, the cooled metal parts shrink a little due to the cold and the heated ones expand then lie down insert the pin or screw and wait the heat causes the pins and screw to expand again and the cold cools the holes down again so that you don't have to force the pins in.
Nice work but the cone and jaws weren't hardened and ground. I sometimes have to make specialized tools also and I do make allowances for hardening and then grinding.
I've often wondered if the traditional shaped file Handle was the most comfortable or some new shape we haven't considered yet. I've considered some hammer Handle shapes not so comfortable, what do guys think?
Hi, you might have answered this in a previous video, but what CAD program do you use, and what did you do to learn the program? I've tried using Free CAD, but I really struggled to graps it. I know a lot of people use Fusion, but I've always been worried about being charged to use it. Thanks
I use Solidworks and CATIA to do my modelling, mostly because that is what I have been taught to use, though they don't come cheap. Fusion seems to be the best free alternative for hobby users. Never used free cad.
The data sheet i run off lists the elasticity mild as 190 gpa and hss as 205/210gpa. To be fair I probably don't notice much of a difference on this scale of work. Cheers
@@artisanmakes HSS is within 5% of mild steel. Thats close to the margin of error for measuring it. "Young’s modulus of elasticity of high-speed steel - AISI M2 is 200 GPa." In all steels(aka iron alloys), rigidity comes primarily from cross section. The base material is still mainly iron and the iron to iron bonds are what determines stiffness. Alloying elements are not usually enough to change that much. I mention it just because people think high tensile steel is "stiffer" than mild steel but that amounts to only a few percent, if that. Increasing the section of mild steel a few thou will equal any HSS in stiffness. Case in point: People think racecar frames are made of 4130 steel because it is stiffer and it is not. What it does, is have the ability to bend further before permanent damage occurs but it still bends the same under the same loads. Motorcycle frames can replace 4130 steel with aluminum which has only 1/3 the stiffness of steel but it's lightness allows a much larger section to get the stiffness back.
Чувак! У тебя недочет с "губками" зажима, при любом угле раскрытия они длжны быть всегда параллельными. Иначе площадь косония при максимальном радиусе фиксируемого объекта, минимальна. У меня подобный инструмент 1973 года выпуска "ЧТЗ" инструментального сеха. "Губки" подвижны и всегда параллельны относительно зажимаемого объекта.
I would have thought the jaws would only have 1 pin each so they can rotate to keep themselves parallel. It seems that with 2 pins each, they are only parallel when completely closed. Is this how they are intended to be? (Iwatch a lot of "Tested", but don't recall if I have seen the handheld vise.
I use solidworks which I use outside of hobby work. I know they have a makers version for $10 a month but I don't know how similar it is to proper solidworks. There is also fusion 360 which a lot of people use. It is good software but I personally don't like it.
2 Notes from a metric guy here: Metric Standard Treads don't need the pitch to be pointed out. So on your drawing a simple "M8" would have been enough. Only Metric Finethreads such as "M8x1" need to have the pitch mentioned as this indicates the Finethread. And please do me a favor for your own safety: Never Ever put your left arm and hand over the chuck when polishing or filing on a lathe. Always come from the other side to avoid your fingers, hand and Arm being smashed by the chuck's rotating chuckslides.
I'm a metric guy always have been, and I never follow any proper standards when I make e drawings for myself. Let me chuck it up to laziness or letting the auto dimension and labeling do its thing. Solidworks i think chucks up the pitch by standard
@@artisanmakes now I know why my USA Engineers always make the same mistake. Solidworks... I will try that on FreeCAD to see what it does (Linux User)...
@@SaschaReinsch Yeah, solidworks can make making e drawings easy and skip over basic stuff. When I did drafting class in university my professor banned us from using the auto dimension features. Cheers
This is a long one that I've been working on for quite some time. Hope you all enjoy it. Cheers
I like a bit longer video. Great work
I admire your work, nice one!
@@jtreg hryr8ey92uf83
Jw
Where you came from ? The Accent is what makes me curious
While turning straight shafts on the lathe you should be using an 80deg insert and helps to have a chip breaker on the tool... i know your on a smaller lathe and dont have as much torque but it would deff benefit the machine and lasts alpt longer so benefits the wallet as well.. seeing that spray cheese comin from the part instead of broken crackers made me cringe a lil!!
Turn the cone out of a piece of hex stock and leave a section of hex under the cone. This will let you clamp the hand vise in another vise in one of six positions.
watch my channel if you like subscribe please th-cam.com/channels/6mvqw0k3A2EbIGiB3I99UA.html there is still a lot of interesting things ahead 👍
This one is really good
Nice dude. You can never go wrong with being able to index a thing in another thing at an approximately known relative angle. And being a hand vice I'm sure the hex stock is going to be an obvious advantage despite the limited precision of the stock.
Very clever
One trick I've learned when trying to turn down a bolt or screw is to wrap the threads with copper wire and it will help keep the threads clean.
This dudes voice and style of explaining things is the best part of the videos, so soothing lol. 3k views and 300 likes is way too low and rude of viewers not to like after watching. IMO. 👍👍👍👍👍
Nice video!
An easy Tipp for you, when you are pening the brass pins (or whatever pins you might be using in the future) drill you hole and then drill a little countersink on both sides so when you are mushrooming it over the material will spread and it will be a lot safer in there.
Keep going with your projects. Always a pleasure to watch!
watch my channel if you like subscribe please th-cam.com/channels/6mvqw0k3A2EbIGiB3I99UA.html there is still a lot of interesting things ahead 😊
A polite suggestion - for coating wood, try Pale Boiled Linseed Oil - dries fast and provides a superior comfort and grip and protective qualities to wood. Not expensive either :)
Hand sawn piece of stainless... respect!
Only one brass pin in every jaw will allow a parallel and more stable grip at any width.. good work !
One of my favorite channels. Following in a lot of the same steps learning machining with my lathe as well.
One thing you can do with jewellers vices is have a hole that runs all the way through the tool and is open at the bottom of the handle. Having a hole run through the center opens up more options for use.
Great suggestion, ill have to remember that. Cheers
You can turn almost anything into a suitable scraper for woodturning, old files, etc. A small or medium sized round nose scraper will see you through most basic wood turning projects without much time to learn how to get good results.
Just be careful about too much stick out and engagement if you are using something brittle.
Cheers, I have very little experience in making my own wood turning tools, its certainly something I'd love to get some practice doing.
A nice forever shop tool that will be loved and used for a long time
Cool idea with the superglue (16:08).
Handy tip for turning resilient materials... Try tossing it in the freezer for a couple of hours. Be careful with the mount as metal will expand as it warms up, but latex based compounds generally expand as you cool them down.
Making the lathe sander is a great idea. I might try that myself.
It was a creative design and we enjoyed seeing it. This product shows your high skill. We are waiting for your next educational videos.
Nicely done. Good job. I like that you are always makes tools that you need.
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I love the idea of the disk sander on the lathe !
I will do the same.
Nice vise.
You are artist. All thing what you did is perfect. Thank you for sharing with us.👍👍
Super professional job bro. I like to the vise working.. 👍👍
"... Can be a bit of a tough material to turn on this lathe" *casually hacksawing SS rod* xD
Beautiful.
beautiful
Having built a belt sander makes me so happy... I would recommend it over using the lathe for grinding.
Absolutely on the list of future projects hen i get a larger workspace. Cheers
An interesting project would be a ball vice.
I'd use a basketball rigged up with ducttape in a wooden fre, cut a funnel hole and add some mesh, then vast some bent threaded bar in place with concrete.
From there, you can trim and add a threaded sleeve to attach the jewellers or other vices.
Cut a tapered hole in a short wooden stool of desired height to sit on the bench top and you'll have a sturdy base
13:20 dude is a genius. Loved it.
I'm surprised you started with the handle. That means you had a ton of confidence in your metalwork!
Machinists usually are. We can cut it to within 10,000 of an inch or closer. Unless it's for government work. Then close enough counts.
New viewer, I am a hardcore CNC guy but its amazing to see what you can make with a basic mill and a small table lathe!!!!!
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As a machinist that works with stainless for a living, including 316 and the super duplex SAF like 2205 and 2507. It's funny watching you able to only do .5mm cuts when I'm so used to ripping 10-12mm cuts on it. Great video anyway man keep up the great work
Funny thing is, I am pushing the lathe to its max doing the cuts that im doing. Cheers
Nice work , very well executed 🛠️
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I have a watch makers vise. its useful at my job as a Finishing technician for aerospace with the small components.
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Very nice vise. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Dipping your tool steel when grinding is necessary. Dipping any metal when grinding is a good idea for sure.
Thank you so much for all your work and the content you create. It is very useful informative material. Also thank you so much for all your help in general.
Top Craftmanship.
amazing dude! its terapeutic to watch and i think also to do! great job!
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I have one of the exact type of jeweller's hand vise you made. Then only thing I wished is that the jaws weren't locked in place, where they could rotate to accommodate different shapes and to hold square parts of different sizes since the large the jaws are open, the more crooked they are.
This could be accomplished in a number of ways, I'd be too lazy to make a parallel linkage but making it hinged would be relatively simple.
@@Avram42 even just having the jaws not locked in place and being able to pivot would help too. A parallel linkage would be pretty cool but a bit more work.
My favorite type of hand vises are the "machinist" style, basically like a tiny bench vise on a handle but they are hard to find and the used ones I found on eBay a pretty expensive for what they are. I've been thinking about machining one, they're not that complicated to make.
Fair enough, I really only make these jaws to hold on specific size of sheet metal I need to shape, but that seems like a good idea
@@SweetTooth8989 Yeah, pivot was what I meant when I said hinged.
Excellent work 👍👍👍 . Thank you for sharing
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Really very impressive craftsmanship overall. It's a very fine looking tool
thankyou
Very nice project, looks like it could find a home in anyone's shop. Enjoyed cheers!
Thank you! Cheers!
nice job! I suppose you just change the angle you machine on the face on the jaw if you are looking to clamp material of a uniform size. You could even make little jaw plate inserts tapered at different angles to swap out if you wanted to.
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Standard gluestick like you would have used at primary school works well for holding paper to steel.
Soaking it in CA Glue also works rather nicely while beeing waterproof and more heat resistent
Very well done 👍
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Allowing the jaws to pivot would automaticly align them at any position
Very cool work!👍
That's great! Well done!
I have never seen a half-center before. What stops it from drilling like a d-bit? Can these be used with steel? Over 30 years of machining, I've never seen such a helpful and simple tool
He has a full video about making it pretty recently
Its not sharp so there isn't a cutting action. when I use it on metal I have to lubricate it with grease, liek you would a normal dead centre
I like how that one came out. brilliant job👍if I may give a tip. at the part you had the clamp levers glued together to drill the holes, this is where a vice position stop would come in handy a simple article slotted to fit on the jaw of your miĺls vice grub screw to lock it in place any position to work in conjunction with your parallels. reference to Joe Piezinski from Austin Texas, Advanced Innovations being his machine shop business. i have made my stop recently
it helps with repetitive workpiece placement in machine vice
Iysbdefinently something that I plan to get. I prefer table stops to vise stops because they are a little more versatile. Cheers
I doubt it was just the center drill, the glue would be quite weak after all the heat buildup when sanding... Heat destroys CA. terrific video and project though!
Brilliant. Love it
Mate, you need a welder. That should be your next purchase, a multiprocess welding machine that can do MiG, DC TiG and MMA. It'll be one of the most useful pieces of kit you have.
Hi, about case hardening - there is a great stuff, named "KASENITE" - it is great for fast, surface hardening of steel pieces. It introduces both carbon and nitrogen to surface, I found it very useful in my workshop - you need only a burner and cooling agent (usually water). It is hard to get it now, but I think it is worth to try.
I didn't think they made that anymore my first run in with it was using it to harden small gun parts.
@@samellowery replacement can be found on ebay.
@@kbilsky that's good to know thanks.
I absolutely hate trying to drill, machine or work stainless steel, I've never tried and not broken bits or blades working with it and so I have come to just use 5150 steel or other hardenable and make sure to oil or paint it after I'm done. I live in the Southeast US and to say we have high humidity is an understatement.
Very interesting thank you
Maybe I missed it, but if you milled a small V into the opposite face of the jaws it could be reversible to hold onto round material. I guess you'd have to sacrifice the sleek form factor, but you'd have additional function.
Can you please publish plans, drawings, tracing or something of that first vice you showed? that thing is so cute I want
That is neat!
Well done.
otimo trabalho parabens
That came out quite nice 👍🏼
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always debur before threading. its gonna turn out much nicer
8:52 no hard and fast rule about this, but for a part that narrow, there's not real reason to have so much extension on that fly cutter, it doesnt need to be set for the maximum possible flycut diameter. With the cutter set way back, you have much less of an eccentricity in the load, and machine performance should go up slightly and vibration go down, but if the mill is rigid enough i suppose its not a problem. Looks like a ton of stickout though.
It cuts fine enough so I just leave it as it is for all cuts. Cheers
I enjoyed your video, but why on earth did you fix the jaws to the arms? 🤔
If you used pivot pins on the jaws they could stay parallel when gripping different sized objects.
I was only making this to clamp a specific size of shim and I just overlooked it. That's about it really.
Man you got to build yourself a compact metalbandsaw
You can turn wood with your normal lathe tools no problem. Just make sure to take apropiate cuts and don't smoke it up
Is there any coolant in your coolant, or just water?
5% semi synthetic
Nicely done. Would it have been better to only put 1 pin on each jaw so they can rotate and be parallel even with something clamped between? Or would that have caused issues?
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Very nice project, mate. But please build a yourself a dedicated disc sander. You will always get grit on the lathe guideways and you will regret it afterwards.
Cheers, once I get a bigger place there might be space for one. As for now this works, as long as I clean all the grit off. Anyway it's a $600 lathe so I don't mind doing stuff like this on it.
@@artisanmakes Fair enough!
Wow! All measurements are made in the metric system, not in the God-defying imperial one!
Very cool, many good ideas. But why not turn your chuck jaws around to get more safe grip on that wood?
Max chucking on the inside Jaws is only 30mm
Nice project as always - I didn't realise they were (relatively) straight forward to make and I've been lusting after one for some time. With regard to the jaws, shouldn't they hinge? I wonder because unless you're gripping something very thin they're going to be bell-mouthed if they are perpendicular to the arms?
I made this to hold a specific thickness of stock with these jaws so when they are parallel they will be holding the stock correctly. Normally you would want to make it slightly convex.
I've got one of these and can testify to its usefulness. Mine is old - 50 years plus I'd say - with no manufacturer's name, so with every appearance of being home-made, and bought for next to nothing from a market stall. It doesn't have a wooden handle - the cone is just extended downwards, with a neck cut out for ease of use and knurling on the remainder to give some grip. That extra weight in the handle I suspect also improves the balance in the hand.
I don't think rotating jaws are a good idea - these hand clamps are mostly used for very small parts and it would be irritating to have the jaws moving away from the part as you're trying to grip it. A very slight convex is possible, but mine just meet at the end - they're parallel at about 5 mms separation, and that works well.
I'm also not so sure about stainless - very hard and liable to mark parts in soft materials such as brass, aluminium alloy etc. Mine is a very soft steel, which is less prone to that, and has acquired a lovely patina over the years, which stainless is never going to do :¬)
It does have a vertical V groove in one jaw, which is essential for holding rods and pins. The pivot pins are also steel, not brass, just peened over like rivets after assembly.
the press fit of the bolt pins in the clamping jaws, etc. would have been a lot easier if you had put the bolts and the screw in the freezer for 24-48 hours and heated the counterparts to 200 - 250 degrees, the cooled metal parts shrink a little due to the cold and the heated ones expand then lie down insert the pin or screw and wait the heat causes the pins and screw to expand again and the cold cools the holes down again so that you don't have to force the pins in.
That's a nice tool, good job! Now I want one.
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Nice job .
Thank you! Cheers!
Very cool!
Nice 👍👍
Nice work but the cone and jaws weren't hardened and ground. I sometimes have to make specialized tools also and I do make allowances for hardening and then grinding.
This is a low use part, I can't imagine it wearing much given the amount of work I need from it.
I've often wondered if the traditional shaped file Handle was the most comfortable or some new shape we haven't considered yet. I've considered some hammer Handle shapes not so comfortable, what do guys think?
How about low-pass filtering some of the machine noises? Your videos are awesome either way :D
Instead of 2 tight rivets, if you used one loose rivet, the jaws may be be flat at all positions.
Me gusta
Maybe if you drill the handle and the whole thing centre you can grab some wire thing with it
Not a bad idea
This is fantastic, I'd really like to make one. what are the changes that you would like to do to it?
as some people suggested, maybe hinged jaws rather than pinned jaws
Wartość użytkowa narzędzia praktycznie zerowa. Ale film się oglądało fajnie.
Where did you get that white sand paper? I never seen that one before
Excellent work. But I wonder why haven't you got a bandsaw for cutting stuff? Even a portable one would make it far easier...
hey everyone, a newbie!😅
It's his gimmick, kind of like the newscasters catch phrase. Plus it looks more accurate doing things by hand.
Do harder jaws grip the part better or worse? I get soft jaws dont damage as much. I feel hard jaws might be slippery?
Hi, you might have answered this in a previous video, but what CAD program do you use, and what did you do to learn the program? I've tried using Free CAD, but I really struggled to graps it. I know a lot of people use Fusion, but I've always been worried about being charged to use it. Thanks
I use Solidworks and CATIA to do my modelling, mostly because that is what I have been taught to use, though they don't come cheap. Fusion seems to be the best free alternative for hobby users. Never used free cad.
2:22 Point of interest. High speed steel is no more rigid than mild or any other steel. All steels have essentially the same rigidity.
The data sheet i run off lists the elasticity mild as 190 gpa and hss as 205/210gpa. To be fair I probably don't notice much of a difference on this scale of work. Cheers
@@artisanmakes HSS is within 5% of mild steel. Thats close to the margin of error for measuring it.
"Young’s modulus of elasticity of high-speed steel - AISI M2 is 200 GPa."
In all steels(aka iron alloys), rigidity comes primarily from cross section. The base material is still mainly iron and the iron to iron bonds are what determines stiffness. Alloying elements are not usually enough to change that much.
I mention it just because people think high tensile steel is "stiffer" than mild steel but that amounts to only a few percent, if that. Increasing the section of mild steel a few thou will equal any HSS in stiffness.
Case in point: People think racecar frames are made of 4130 steel because it is stiffer and it is not. What it does, is have the ability to bend further before permanent damage occurs but it still bends the same under the same loads.
Motorcycle frames can replace 4130 steel with aluminum which has only 1/3 the stiffness of steel but it's lightness allows a much larger section to get the stiffness back.
Intetesting, wonder why our matrrials charts don't line up then, mine would have me believe that the difference is around 15 gpa.
@@artisanmakes 15/200=~ 7.5/100
=7.5% difference and that is a max not a typical. I gave a more realistic 5%. Do you think 5% is a lot?
Чувак! У тебя недочет с "губками" зажима, при любом угле раскрытия они длжны быть всегда параллельными. Иначе площадь косония при максимальном радиусе фиксируемого объекта, минимальна.
У меня подобный инструмент 1973 года выпуска "ЧТЗ" инструментального сеха.
"Губки" подвижны и всегда параллельны относительно зажимаемого объекта.
16:54 here would a clamp / vise be perfect
22:40 it looks good but it Looks a little bit unparalell from the side
There was a little slop in the main bracket to allow for the movement but when its clamping 1.2nm sheet metal it is flush
I would have thought the jaws would only have 1 pin each so they can rotate to keep themselves parallel. It seems that with 2 pins each, they are only parallel when completely closed. Is this how they are intended to be? (Iwatch a lot of "Tested", but don't recall if I have seen the handheld vise.
You can do that, that's a good idea, but I made this one to hold a specific thickness material when I was designing that jaws. Cheers
@@artisanmakes Thank you!
17:55 The holes are pretty near to the edge. They seems to break out with any force ...
It's a bit close for comfort but this is for light clamping duty. This is strong enough for what is needed
Exactly what I was thinking. Not a lot of meat there.
what camera and lens are you using?
Canon 80D
Canon efs 18-135 for most stuff and. Efs 35 macro
Love your channel and projects, but gotta be honest. Everytime you hacksaw a monster piece of steel, I die a little inside. :)
hehe, thanks for putting up with it :)
У меня есть такие мини тиски, от деда достались по наследству, производства ссср.
👍👍👍
👏👏👏👏👏👏👏
El vernier es para medicion y calibracion no para rallar metales para eso hay herramientas de rallado, en fin siempre hay "quien lo sabe todo"
Being a hobbyist, what CAD software do you use?
I use solidworks which I use outside of hobby work. I know they have a makers version for $10 a month but I don't know how similar it is to proper solidworks. There is also fusion 360 which a lot of people use. It is good software but I personally don't like it.
Please find a belt sander for future projects.
One day but I don’t have the space for one currently
месье знает толк в извращениях))
2 Notes from a metric guy here:
Metric Standard Treads don't need the pitch to be pointed out. So on your drawing a simple "M8" would have been enough. Only Metric Finethreads such as "M8x1" need to have the pitch mentioned as this indicates the Finethread.
And please do me a favor for your own safety: Never Ever put your left arm and hand over the chuck when polishing or filing on a lathe. Always come from the other side to avoid your fingers, hand and Arm being smashed by the chuck's rotating chuckslides.
I'm a metric guy always have been, and I never follow any proper standards when I make e drawings for myself. Let me chuck it up to laziness or letting the auto dimension and labeling do its thing. Solidworks i think chucks up the pitch by standard
@@artisanmakes now I know why my USA Engineers always make the same mistake. Solidworks... I will try that on FreeCAD to see what it does (Linux User)...
@@SaschaReinsch Yeah, solidworks can make making e drawings easy and skip over basic stuff. When I did drafting class in university my professor banned us from using the auto dimension features. Cheers