A good thing to remember when making the relief cuts. from personal experience using acme taps they always wear out on top of the trailing metal behind the cutting surface, after a few uses it ends up super polished and that seems to make the tap take a lot less torque to move, so for your application it might be worth to polish the taps then sharpen it, you will get a better finish!
Great to see the hacksaw making yet another appearance. Your cuts are a lot straighter than mine. Man! What a project, especially as it’s a project to make a project. Looking forward to seeing that project! Thanks for all your work. Les in UK 🇬🇧
I have been, and am still, impressed by your strength and persistence cutting large stock with a hacksaw!! I understand your resource and space restraints but that does not dimmish the effort you expend! Well done sir! Great vid too!
I absolutely love your videos. Discovered you when I had to be in hospital for 2 weeks in last December, and ended up bingewatching every video you had out at that time
Outstanding work. Your problem solving approach is intelligent, and skillful, and your execution is fearless. You just dive right in. Respect. Side note, your videos are also fan-friggin-tastic. Making vids is harder than it looks and yours are so clear and easy to follow. I am stealing idea... I mean, "taking notes"... 😅
Making a set of huge (for the size of your machines), square thread taps, by helical milling, from hot rolled mild steel, then case hardening seems ridiculously ambitious on the face of it. I'm amazed that you have pulled it off. Seriously well done. What is your favourite brand of hacksaw blade?
Same here - MacGyver would be proud. For most of the video, I just kept watching because I wanted to see if the next thing would work. You can increase the carbon content of steel by baking it with charcoal? Wow. A+ for raw cleverness
For the cutting of the tread, take 2 fix wrenches to get More power and dont get the power from only one side like on the adjustable wrench. For example two 36 wrenches. Great content!!!
You are truly tapped mate, the size of those bloody things. Well done, you'll be well screwed once you turn them through steel. Thank you for sharing your time.
I don't know what size you did the square drive, but if it is 1 inch or close to a standard socket drive diameter, buy a single socket, cross drill a hole so you can insert a bar and drive the tap using the square in the socket. Pretty sure that would work?
They commercially make 8 pt sockets for use on square nuts. A lot easier to just pick up a socket of the appropriate size if it is a normal size square.
I appreciate that this guy was willing to tell us about all the problems he had. A lot of people leave all that out and make it seem like child's play 🤣
I have three additions of the machinery's hand books 10th 16th and 19th, and you are right later additions are vaguer, and some subjects lost, I made a 29mm x 1mm pitch tap and a plug for a brass casting that was stripped out, the plug was also the tap I made the plug longer with flutes half-length from 316 ss then after successfully forming a rather decent thread in the casting just machined the tap section off This machine would have been scrapped as there was not enough of the casting metal to cut a 2.5 mm thread in to and no off the shelf tap sizes to do the job. That's just what machinists do for a living this guy knows his stuff and not afraid of showing others how to do the whole job
Hey there nice vid! A tip from a machinist and engineer: the relief angel you need to improve the tap more is on the taper of the tap. It's hard to explain in a comment but the cutting tooth have no clearance angle right now, because the outer shape was formed on a lathe. You can easily do this on the grinder by hand on the tapered part of the taps. I highly recommend the video from thisoldtony on this topic. Anyhow keep up the good work and have a nice day 🤘🏻
You made it clear you were waiting for wheels and it will be more difficult to grind into hardened steel. I guess from a project management point of view you get the job done faster by shifting work before the wheels arrive at a small cost of having the grinding a bit more difficult. How long did it take to grind relief?
Square threads are actually stronger in applications like pressure vessels because they have no taper which would act as a wedge and rip apart either itself or the mating surface when pressiz3d internally
You obviously didn't listen to all the idiots that say you can't make anything worthwhile in a small machine shop, Congratulations for proving them wrong and for all the information and entertainment you provide .Thank you
There's no need to go to th 23:00 e trouble of buying a single socket, standard socket sets come with square nut sockets already. DUH. Michael said that, bye for now my friends.
I would just make the drive end 6 sided, so you can use a proper socket and whatever wrench you want. Most times when I and others I've worked with, use larger taps you end up finding the closest socket and using a 3/4 drive rachet anyway, because tap handles that size are too awkward and bulky to be able to use where you need them on a lot of machines (need too much space to spin the handle). Plus if you do it before cutting the threads it will give the chuck flats to hold onto. You could make 6 sides work with a normal tap handle as well if you change the angle in the holding inserts from 90 degrees to 120 degrees.
Nice work. I used to tap some inch and a quarter BSW threads through 30mm mild steel plate, for die sets for sheet metal. Anyhow we used a tap wrench that was about 3 feet long and even then it was hard work. And this is 40mm and square. Good job and good luck.
this is why my brother has several editions of "Machinery's Handbook" going back to the first edition. The information comes and goes, and sometimes the old ways are best.
So you were saying that you hope that it would follow the groves from the previous tap. Something that I do to prevent cross threading when putting in a bolt is I will start by running the bolt backwards until it falls into the threads, this way I know for a fact that the bolt is properly seated before sending the bolt home. This is super helpful to save your projects and bolts and it doesn't take but a second or two.
It’s more so that fact that the lead angle of the threads changes with these types of taps. It’s ever so slight but there is a change. I was worried that it might try and cut a different helix as a result
@@artisanmakes Ooh, okay. That makes a lot of sense. Thank you for clearing that for me 😊 That trick of mine is really helpful tho. 😁 I really liked the video, you do good quality work.
Blacksmiths use an adjustable wrench with a bar welded onto the head for twisting steel, something as simple as that could work as a bigger tap wrench unless you have plans to make one of those too
Interesting. I liked the video, but I would have purchased a TR40 tap from Aceteel instead of trying to make one though. They cost about $350 US dollars, but that is cheaper than I could make one. I have designed large automated equipment that used large linear drive screws and never had a problem finding large taps or screws. It will be very interesting to find out what this project is. Great video and I truly enjoyed it!
Prices for stuff like that vary widely depending on where you are in the world. Where I am I would pay as much as you pay for the big one for a way smaller one.
Para asegurarte que el "Thread Tap" quede centrado podés hacerlo en el torno apoyando suavemente el contrapunto. Esto también permite aplicar fuerza con la llave francesa sin preocupaciones, pues no se torcerá.
If you weld a bar to the fixed jaw of the adjustables, makes a quick simple tap wrench. Not very fancy, but I'm assuming you're not going to be 40mm tapping for a living. 😄
tbh the begining with a 1914 machinist handbook with a WHOLE SECTION about why you should NOT do it, immediatelly followed by handsawing commically large pole, immediatelly followed by revelation that you did it 3 times is peak comedy
You mentioned that the helical cutting was using the bottom of the endmill and that was increasing the cutting force. Couldn't you offset the Y axis half the cutter diameter so that the leading edge of the end mill was at the centerline of the part? This would end up with a slightly rounded bottom of the grooves you are cutting, but it would mean the cutting was all done by the sides of the end mill instead of the sides and bottom.
Hey bud, great content! If you have an adjustable wrench you are willing to sacrifice, a cheap/ excellent alternative to a large tap wrench, is to weld a bar to the adjustable jaw, equal to the length of the handle of the wrench. I carried one with me for field repairs and it did the trick for years. You may be experiencing high side loading on the tap without support on both sides of the centerline of the tap. Hope this helps!
Great work man! It would definitely help a lot with the high cutting force to hit the sides of the teeth in the grooves with a stone or a diamond. They are likely extremely dull after all the machining, rough filing and wire brushing.
i think what you could try when forming the flutes and therefore the cutting edge is grinding them with a dremel and small ball grinder in the lathe with only the crosslide. You should get a pretty prestine finish that way.
You really do have far more patience than I have. Brilliant little project, but jeez, my arm hurts just looking at the worn hacksaw blade. Have to say I have a sense of anticipation to see what the main project is.
Not sure if this would work since I have never done the work you are doing but could you have used a 4mm ball end mill to make the initial cut for the threads then fallow up the final pass with a regular 4mm end mill? You said that the tool puts a lot of end pressure on the bits and it looks like the ball end bits look to be able to handle that load. Love your content and you make it look so easy that I want to get these tools to start making my own stuff instead of having others do it for me.
May I ask if the case carbon hardening does harden only the outer layer of the metal or does it add carbon all the way through the metal till the core of it? I’ve always heard that it only hardens few millimeters of the outer layer…
The rate it diffuses is fractions of a mm per hour. It’s not a very efficient process but sometimes it’s the easiest depending on availability of materials
Thats a big ambitious project for a shed guy well done like many others here single sided handle is no good need a double or possibly multi handle tap wrench with lots of leverage especially for steel looking forward to the next one
Fantastic job. Would cutting the flutes before the threads help with bit loading/chip removal? Would also prevent the burr on the threads. Not a machinist, just a fan!
Overall, this is a highly informative and enjoyable video for anyone interested in engineering. It showcases your talent and expertise while providing valuable insights and inspiration to fellow enthusiasts. Keep up the great work, and I look forward to watching more of your content in the future 👍👍👍
I don't know if the terminology has become blurred or they've died out (my books and tools are all ancient), but "slot mills" are the thing for cutting those threads. They have two flutes and an offset centre divot to allow cutting on both edges. Also, they do tailstocks for use with rotary tables (although perhaps your mill bed isn't long enough) which would have helped.
why didnt you use a machinist jack under the last two taps after the chatter started on the first? or do you need to make a machinist jack (project idea) for the helical mill seteup? (maybe a jack head with a couple bearings to allow part rotation while supported. (ball bearings, bi-diameter wholes, sized for heavy thin springs and ball bearings upper jack head, brass/some self oiling busing material as a top plate, t bolt based screw jack))
You can't mount the chuck on the mill and put the tap in there? The biggest tap I ever had to use was 1.37'' x 24. They come in pairs, left and right hand and use a special tool to mate them on bicycles.
cracking job that, I have wondered how pig a tap you can safely make and turn by hand, I wonder if you could make a die big enough to do the same thread .. Thanks for sharing
Not to be a bother, but if you're going to use these in steel, it would be much better to have the 5 tap set done. At my work we use a lot of M48 size taps and a Machine is either used to do it, or a meter long tap wrench. That should tell about the force you'll be fighting when getting this done. Anyway, all the best to you. Have a good day.
so you made that tap to in the process of replacing a worn carriage on a other larger lath right? could nearly make a sand cast wax model to revise with friction grinding with stone powder and oil, to do the same thing with even older processes.
It would be trivial to order a proper tapered end mill for the job. 25-55$ for a new one within the first five hits on Google-and you get a standard metric trapezoidal thread when you're done. Most large taps like this will be made as duplex taps-a V-thread tap preceeding the square/acme/trapezoidal thread-and it would be entirely appropriate to mill off the left or right side every other tooth or every third tooth depending on the number of flutes on the tap, and alternate the missing side of the tooth on alternating flutes. This further reduces the cutting forces. So-make a V-thread tap, then relieve your tap alternating left-flank/right flank/full tooth profile.
A good thing to remember when making the relief cuts. from personal experience using acme taps they always wear out on top of the trailing metal behind the cutting surface, after a few uses it ends up super polished and that seems to make the tap take a lot less torque to move, so for your application it might be worth to polish the taps then sharpen it, you will get a better finish!
Great to see the hacksaw making yet another appearance. Your cuts are a lot straighter than mine. Man! What a project, especially as it’s a project to make a project. Looking forward to seeing that project! Thanks for all your work. Les in UK 🇬🇧
Years of hacksaw practice has paid off
@@artisanmakes - It probably builds on the strength you have gained since your teenage years from doing a similar hand/arm motion 😂😂
@@johncoops6897 looooooooool
I have been, and am still, impressed by your strength and persistence cutting large stock with a hacksaw!! I understand your resource and space restraints but that does not dimmish the effort you expend! Well done sir! Great vid too!
Should we start a crowd funding campain to buy this man a band saw?!
I absolutely love your videos. Discovered you when I had to be in hospital for 2 weeks in last December, and ended up bingewatching every video you had out at that time
Outstanding work. Your problem solving approach is intelligent, and skillful, and your execution is fearless. You just dive right in. Respect. Side note, your videos are also fan-friggin-tastic. Making vids is harder than it looks and yours are so clear and easy to follow. I am stealing idea... I mean, "taking notes"... 😅
hi. this is my favourite youtube channel at the moment!
Making a set of huge (for the size of your machines), square thread taps, by helical milling, from hot rolled mild steel, then case hardening seems ridiculously ambitious on the face of it. I'm amazed that you have pulled it off. Seriously well done. What is your favourite brand of hacksaw blade?
Same here - MacGyver would be proud. For most of the video, I just kept watching because I wanted to see if the next thing would work. You can increase the carbon content of steel by baking it with charcoal? Wow. A+ for raw cleverness
@@dirkv.9013 That's OLD school metalworker stuff there
I use suttons cobalt blades. Cheers
For the cutting of the tread, take 2 fix wrenches to get More power and dont get the power from only one side like on the adjustable wrench. For example two 36 wrenches. Great content!!!
What he said. I figured someone would have already beaten me to it.
You are truly tapped mate, the size of those bloody things. Well done, you'll be well screwed once you turn them through steel. Thank you for sharing your time.
For easier covering with the borax flux wrap a metallic mesh around the flux! Nice work brother!
i swear. every time i see a machinist pull up the machinery's handbook i know sh*t just got real
I don't know what size you did the square drive, but if it is 1 inch or close to a standard socket drive diameter, buy a single socket, cross drill a hole so you can insert a bar and drive the tap using the square in the socket. Pretty sure that would work?
But it'd be a lot funnier to make a comically large tap wrench to go with the comically large taps. :D
Socket and 3/4” drive impact wrench.
They commercially make 8 pt sockets for use on square nuts. A lot easier to just pick up a socket of the appropriate size if it is a normal size square.
Correct myself months later after watching him use the taps. 1” drive impact wrench.
I'm dying of curiosity now to see what project you will use these massive taps on. Can't wait.
I appreciate that this guy was willing to tell us about all the problems he had. A lot of people leave all that out and make it seem like child's play 🤣
I love the way you increased the carbon during the hardening in charcoal packing boxes, I'm a hobby machinist and never did that before
Can't wait to see the application of these threads!
So is that a 40mm tap in your pocket... Oh God it is! 👍
"Hide yo kids, hide yo wife"
Now that you have moved up to tool-making, maybe it's at least time for a power hacksaw...
When I saw him start that with a hack saw I oof'd, out loud, haha
What an effort. Well done you.
I have three additions of the machinery's hand books 10th 16th and 19th, and you are right later additions are vaguer, and some subjects lost, I made a 29mm x 1mm pitch tap and a plug for a brass casting that was stripped out, the plug was also the tap I made the plug longer with flutes half-length from 316 ss then after successfully forming a rather decent thread in the casting just machined the tap section off This machine would have been scrapped as there was not enough of the casting metal to cut a 2.5 mm thread in to and no off the shelf tap sizes to do the job. That's just what machinists do for a living this guy knows his stuff and not afraid of showing others how to do the whole job
Hey there nice vid!
A tip from a machinist and engineer: the relief angel you need to improve the tap more is on the taper of the tap. It's hard to explain in a comment but the cutting tooth have no clearance angle right now, because the outer shape was formed on a lathe. You can easily do this on the grinder by hand on the tapered part of the taps.
I highly recommend the video from thisoldtony on this topic.
Anyhow keep up the good work and have a nice day 🤘🏻
I mentioned in the end that I have the intention of doing that but my new set of grinding wheels hasn’t turned up yet
You made it clear you were waiting for wheels and it will be more difficult to grind into hardened steel. I guess from a project management point of view you get the job done faster by shifting work before the wheels arrive at a small cost of having the grinding a bit more difficult.
How long did it take to grind relief?
It’s usually a fairly quick job but I have yet to get around to it
First time I have seen taps created. This contect was well organized and enjoyable to watch. Many thanks.
WOW, masterfully done. I learn so much from your videos! Thanks for taking us along and take care!
Square threads are actually stronger in applications like pressure vessels because they have no taper which would act as a wedge and rip apart either itself or the mating surface when pressiz3d internally
Great minds think alike. Using an air brush as a mist coolant sprayer. Glad to see it on YT.
You obviously didn't listen to all the idiots that say you can't make anything worthwhile in a small machine shop, Congratulations for proving them wrong and for all the information and entertainment you provide .Thank you
Holy smokes! 😮
Cutting edge engineering would be proud of that result on such a small lathe and mill. How you pulled it off is legend! 😊
I love the fact that the book was just straight up "Don't do this. You shouldn't do this. It's a pain in the ass. OK, now here's how you do it."
There's no need to go to th 23:00 e trouble of buying a single socket, standard socket sets come with square nut sockets already. DUH. Michael said that, bye for now my friends.
I would just make the drive end 6 sided, so you can use a proper socket and whatever wrench you want. Most times when I and others I've worked with, use larger taps you end up finding the closest socket and using a 3/4 drive rachet anyway, because tap handles that size are too awkward and bulky to be able to use where you need them on a lot of machines (need too much space to spin the handle).
Plus if you do it before cutting the threads it will give the chuck flats to hold onto.
You could make 6 sides work with a normal tap handle as well if you change the angle in the holding inserts from 90 degrees to 120 degrees.
Never seen anyone do this. Amazing. Well done mate. Cheers.
Nice work. I used to tap some inch and a quarter BSW threads through 30mm mild steel plate, for die sets for sheet metal. Anyhow we used a tap wrench that was about 3 feet long and even then it was hard work. And this is 40mm and square. Good job and good luck.
this is why my brother has several editions of "Machinery's Handbook" going back to the first edition. The information comes and goes, and sometimes the old ways are best.
Yeah seems that even though there’s is 2000 plus pages they still have to removed old information
*Thank you for a very good video. Valuable leason learned!* 👍❤😊
sweet!...can't wait to see what you need those taps for. 🤣🤔
Looking forward to that tap wrench video!
Can't wait to see the machine you're building.
The airbrush coolant dispenser is very creative. Thanks for the interesting project.
Good ideas, great execution. Thanks for showing us.
So you were saying that you hope that it would follow the groves from the previous tap. Something that I do to prevent cross threading when putting in a bolt is I will start by running the bolt backwards until it falls into the threads, this way I know for a fact that the bolt is properly seated before sending the bolt home. This is super helpful to save your projects and bolts and it doesn't take but a second or two.
It’s more so that fact that the lead angle of the threads changes with these types of taps. It’s ever so slight but there is a change. I was worried that it might try and cut a different helix as a result
@@artisanmakes Ooh, okay.
That makes a lot of sense. Thank you for clearing that for me 😊
That trick of mine is really helpful tho. 😁
I really liked the video, you do good quality work.
Thats honestly pretty nuts. I cant wait to see it in action on whichever project youre using it for. Incredible project, thanks for sharing!
22:35 You can have a square holed spanner lasercut out of 10mm steel sheet, or weld up something from 2 pieces of 10x40 flat bar.
Blacksmiths use an adjustable wrench with a bar welded onto the head for twisting steel, something as simple as that could work as a bigger tap wrench unless you have plans to make one of those too
Good work. We love big tools. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Interesting. I liked the video, but I would have purchased a TR40 tap from Aceteel instead of trying to make one though. They cost about $350 US dollars, but that is cheaper than I could make one. I have designed large automated equipment that used large linear drive screws and never had a problem finding large taps or screws. It will be very interesting to find out what this project is. Great video and I truly enjoyed it!
Prices for stuff like that vary widely depending on where you are in the world. Where I am I would pay as much as you pay for the big one for a way smaller one.
Para asegurarte que el "Thread Tap" quede centrado podés hacerlo en el torno apoyando suavemente el contrapunto. Esto también permite aplicar fuerza con la llave francesa sin preocupaciones, pues no se torcerá.
One of these days you should setup a electronic lead screw for the lathe.
If you weld a bar to the fixed jaw of the adjustables, makes a quick simple tap wrench. Not very fancy, but I'm assuming you're not going to be 40mm tapping for a living. 😄
tbh the begining with a 1914 machinist handbook with a WHOLE SECTION about why you should NOT do it, immediatelly followed by handsawing commically large pole, immediatelly followed by revelation that you did it 3 times is peak comedy
You mentioned that the helical cutting was using the bottom of the endmill and that was increasing the cutting force. Couldn't you offset the Y axis half the cutter diameter so that the leading edge of the end mill was at the centerline of the part? This would end up with a slightly rounded bottom of the grooves you are cutting, but it would mean the cutting was all done by the sides of the end mill instead of the sides and bottom.
My respects this is something really outstanding, keep it up!
That's an impressive project. Greetings from sunny Adelaide.
im not really that much into metal works.. but wouldnt a ratchet maybe do the trick as a handle?
hitting it with the wire wheel after hardening seems counter productive
The metal on the wire wheel is softer than the part. So it should be fine.
I keep forgetting just how much chemistry is involved with metalworking. I'm a professional carpenter, so I don't even know what I'm doing here.
@infrabread it's just like woodworking just you're working with petrified wood and modified stones. Some basic principles apply to both occupations.
It’s not too different to wood selection and grain structure that you have to consider.
PLINK!! ... broke the tap off in the workpiece
...unlikely. 😁👍
So you say, but literally this last week the boss broke a 35mm. It makes quite the trophy!
I was thinking that guy with your skills cuts the material with a ordinary hacksaw. Respect on that.
Feeling some ToT inspired vibes from your video. I think you got a new subscriber
Hey bud, great content! If you have an adjustable wrench you are willing to sacrifice, a cheap/ excellent alternative to a large tap wrench, is to weld a bar to the adjustable jaw, equal to the length of the handle of the wrench. I carried one with me for field repairs and it did the trick for years. You may be experiencing high side loading on the tap without support on both sides of the centerline of the tap. Hope this helps!
Great work man! It would definitely help a lot with the high cutting force to hit the sides of the teeth in the grooves with a stone or a diamond. They are likely extremely dull after all the machining, rough filing and wire brushing.
He did say he was waiting for his cup stone to hone them.
i think what you could try when forming the flutes and therefore the cutting edge is grinding them with a dremel and small ball grinder in the lathe with only the crosslide. You should get a pretty prestine finish that way.
I can't wait to see the dividing head rebuild 😂😂
I'm REALLY curious what these taps are for.
"That's not a tap. THIS is a tap." -- Crocodile Dundee, probably
You really do have far more patience than I have. Brilliant little project, but jeez, my arm hurts just looking at the worn hacksaw blade.
Have to say I have a sense of anticipation to see what the main project is.
My arm hurts too and I've got a 4x6" metal bandsaw!
Nice job. FYI ammonia takes polymerized oil off very well.
Great workout
Holy smoke, I can’t imagine what you need such big taps for. Very interesting video. Thank you. 👏👏👍😀
Not sure if this would work since I have never done the work you are doing but could you have used a 4mm ball end mill to make the initial cut for the threads then fallow up the final pass with a regular 4mm end mill? You said that the tool puts a lot of end pressure on the bits and it looks like the ball end bits look to be able to handle that load. Love your content and you make it look so easy that I want to get these tools to start making my own stuff instead of having others do it for me.
May I ask if the case carbon hardening does harden only the outer layer of the metal or does it add carbon all the way through the metal till the core of it? I’ve always heard that it only hardens few millimeters of the outer layer…
The rate it diffuses is fractions of a mm per hour. It’s not a very efficient process but sometimes it’s the easiest depending on availability of materials
Great vid as always. please tell me you made these taps for some part for a bandsaw your making to get away from the hack saw?
Holy smokes mate, is that for an oil rig? 🤣 Great work as always. I appreciate your approach "If it works = Success!" Respect.
With the relief should be easier to cut. Nice job!
Impressive 👍 🇬🇧
Thats a big ambitious project for a shed guy well done like many others here single sided handle is no good need a double or possibly multi handle tap wrench with lots of leverage especially for steel looking forward to the next one
Fantastic job. Would cutting the flutes before the threads help with bit loading/chip removal? Would also prevent the burr on the threads. Not a machinist, just a fan!
Overall, this is a highly informative and enjoyable video for anyone interested in engineering. It showcases your talent and expertise while providing valuable insights and inspiration to fellow enthusiasts. Keep up the great work, and I look forward to watching more of your content in the future 👍👍👍
Mind. Blown. Amazing job!
Easy way for a quick tap wrench. Just weld a piece of rod to the adjustable wrench to give yourself 2 handles
How awesome. That is really good 👍👍
I really don't understand why you don't own a bandsaw by now, even a small one would make your life so much easier.
or a sawzall!
Or two f#cks what anyone else thinks. Oh wait!
@@christofs-a1834 ha nice one
Could 2 adjustable wrenches work better? One sticking out to either side, forming a t-shaped handle?
I don't know if the terminology has become blurred or they've died out (my books and tools are all ancient), but "slot mills" are the thing for cutting those threads. They have two flutes and an offset centre divot to allow cutting on both edges.
Also, they do tailstocks for use with rotary tables (although perhaps your mill bed isn't long enough) which would have helped.
He should have had his Y axis inwards so the outside edge of his bit was aligned with the center of the rod, rather than center on center.
why didnt you use a machinist jack under the last two taps after the chatter started on the first? or do you need to make a machinist jack (project idea) for the helical mill seteup? (maybe a jack head with a couple bearings to allow part rotation while supported. (ball bearings, bi-diameter wholes, sized for heavy thin springs and ball bearings upper jack head, brass/some self oiling busing material as a top plate, t bolt based screw jack))
You could maybe grind the back of each tooth to relieve the tool friction
They are so impressive taps. Time for a comedically large tap wrench now? (Oh, I said that before you mentioned it. Maybe a ratcheting one?)
Amazing, I love seeing unusual things being made rather than 9001th vise jaws :D
awesome video. for future use, you can buy tapered end mills for machining injection molds.
You can't mount the chuck on the mill and put the tap in there? The biggest tap I ever had to use was 1.37'' x 24. They come in pairs, left and right hand and use a special tool to mate them on bicycles.
cracking job that, I have wondered how pig a tap you can safely make and turn by hand, I wonder if you could make a die big enough to do the same thread ..
Thanks for sharing
The hardening process was particularly interesting. Thanks!
Finally, a tap that won't break if I look at it funny!
Not to be a bother, but if you're going to use these in steel, it would be much better to have the 5 tap set done.
At my work we use a lot of M48 size taps and a Machine is either used to do it, or a meter long tap wrench.
That should tell about the force you'll be fighting when getting this done. Anyway, all the best to you. Have a good day.
Thinking about it you could have put a Hex indead of a square at the end.
That way you could have just used a socket and ratchet
Great work.
I do think you should be using something better than a Queensland vernier to turn the tap, though. 😉
so you made that tap to in the process of replacing a worn carriage on a other larger lath right? could nearly make a sand cast wax model to revise with friction grinding with stone powder and oil, to do the same thing with even older processes.
Finally a tap that doesn't break. it rather breaks me!
Somebody get this guy a metal bandsaw!
It would be trivial to order a proper tapered end mill for the job. 25-55$ for a new one within the first five hits on Google-and you get a standard metric trapezoidal thread when you're done. Most large taps like this will be made as duplex taps-a V-thread tap preceeding the square/acme/trapezoidal thread-and it would be entirely appropriate to mill off the left or right side every other tooth or every third tooth depending on the number of flutes on the tap, and alternate the missing side of the tooth on alternating flutes. This further reduces the cutting forces. So-make a V-thread tap, then relieve your tap alternating left-flank/right flank/full tooth profile.