A good thing to remember when making the relief cuts. from personal experience using acme taps they always wear out on top of the trailing metal behind the cutting surface, after a few uses it ends up super polished and that seems to make the tap take a lot less torque to move, so for your application it might be worth to polish the taps then sharpen it, you will get a better finish!
I have been, and am still, impressed by your strength and persistence cutting large stock with a hacksaw!! I understand your resource and space restraints but that does not dimmish the effort you expend! Well done sir! Great vid too!
I appreciate that this guy was willing to tell us about all the problems he had. A lot of people leave all that out and make it seem like child's play 🤣
Great to see the hacksaw making yet another appearance. Your cuts are a lot straighter than mine. Man! What a project, especially as it’s a project to make a project. Looking forward to seeing that project! Thanks for all your work. Les in UK 🇬🇧
For the cutting of the tread, take 2 fix wrenches to get More power and dont get the power from only one side like on the adjustable wrench. For example two 36 wrenches. Great content!!!
Outstanding work. Your problem solving approach is intelligent, and skillful, and your execution is fearless. You just dive right in. Respect. Side note, your videos are also fan-friggin-tastic. Making vids is harder than it looks and yours are so clear and easy to follow. I am stealing idea... I mean, "taking notes"... 😅
You are truly tapped mate, the size of those bloody things. Well done, you'll be well screwed once you turn them through steel. Thank you for sharing your time.
Making a set of huge (for the size of your machines), square thread taps, by helical milling, from hot rolled mild steel, then case hardening seems ridiculously ambitious on the face of it. I'm amazed that you have pulled it off. Seriously well done. What is your favourite brand of hacksaw blade?
Same here - MacGyver would be proud. For most of the video, I just kept watching because I wanted to see if the next thing would work. You can increase the carbon content of steel by baking it with charcoal? Wow. A+ for raw cleverness
I absolutely love your videos. Discovered you when I had to be in hospital for 2 weeks in last December, and ended up bingewatching every video you had out at that time
I don't know what size you did the square drive, but if it is 1 inch or close to a standard socket drive diameter, buy a single socket, cross drill a hole so you can insert a bar and drive the tap using the square in the socket. Pretty sure that would work?
They commercially make 8 pt sockets for use on square nuts. A lot easier to just pick up a socket of the appropriate size if it is a normal size square.
Hey there nice vid! A tip from a machinist and engineer: the relief angel you need to improve the tap more is on the taper of the tap. It's hard to explain in a comment but the cutting tooth have no clearance angle right now, because the outer shape was formed on a lathe. You can easily do this on the grinder by hand on the tapered part of the taps. I highly recommend the video from thisoldtony on this topic. Anyhow keep up the good work and have a nice day 🤘🏻
You made it clear you were waiting for wheels and it will be more difficult to grind into hardened steel. I guess from a project management point of view you get the job done faster by shifting work before the wheels arrive at a small cost of having the grinding a bit more difficult. How long did it take to grind relief?
Square threads are actually stronger in applications like pressure vessels because they have no taper which would act as a wedge and rip apart either itself or the mating surface when pressiz3d internally
this is why my brother has several editions of "Machinery's Handbook" going back to the first edition. The information comes and goes, and sometimes the old ways are best.
I would just make the drive end 6 sided, so you can use a proper socket and whatever wrench you want. Most times when I and others I've worked with, use larger taps you end up finding the closest socket and using a 3/4 drive rachet anyway, because tap handles that size are too awkward and bulky to be able to use where you need them on a lot of machines (need too much space to spin the handle). Plus if you do it before cutting the threads it will give the chuck flats to hold onto. You could make 6 sides work with a normal tap handle as well if you change the angle in the holding inserts from 90 degrees to 120 degrees.
You obviously didn't listen to all the idiots that say you can't make anything worthwhile in a small machine shop, Congratulations for proving them wrong and for all the information and entertainment you provide .Thank you
Nice work. I used to tap some inch and a quarter BSW threads through 30mm mild steel plate, for die sets for sheet metal. Anyhow we used a tap wrench that was about 3 feet long and even then it was hard work. And this is 40mm and square. Good job and good luck.
So you were saying that you hope that it would follow the groves from the previous tap. Something that I do to prevent cross threading when putting in a bolt is I will start by running the bolt backwards until it falls into the threads, this way I know for a fact that the bolt is properly seated before sending the bolt home. This is super helpful to save your projects and bolts and it doesn't take but a second or two.
It’s more so that fact that the lead angle of the threads changes with these types of taps. It’s ever so slight but there is a change. I was worried that it might try and cut a different helix as a result
@@artisanmakes Ooh, okay. That makes a lot of sense. Thank you for clearing that for me 😊 That trick of mine is really helpful tho. 😁 I really liked the video, you do good quality work.
If you weld a bar to the fixed jaw of the adjustables, makes a quick simple tap wrench. Not very fancy, but I'm assuming you're not going to be 40mm tapping for a living. 😄
tbh the begining with a 1914 machinist handbook with a WHOLE SECTION about why you should NOT do it, immediatelly followed by handsawing commically large pole, immediatelly followed by revelation that you did it 3 times is peak comedy
Blacksmiths use an adjustable wrench with a bar welded onto the head for twisting steel, something as simple as that could work as a bigger tap wrench unless you have plans to make one of those too
i think what you could try when forming the flutes and therefore the cutting edge is grinding them with a dremel and small ball grinder in the lathe with only the crosslide. You should get a pretty prestine finish that way.
Great work man! It would definitely help a lot with the high cutting force to hit the sides of the teeth in the grooves with a stone or a diamond. They are likely extremely dull after all the machining, rough filing and wire brushing.
Interesting. I liked the video, but I would have purchased a TR40 tap from Aceteel instead of trying to make one though. They cost about $350 US dollars, but that is cheaper than I could make one. I have designed large automated equipment that used large linear drive screws and never had a problem finding large taps or screws. It will be very interesting to find out what this project is. Great video and I truly enjoyed it!
Prices for stuff like that vary widely depending on where you are in the world. Where I am I would pay as much as you pay for the big one for a way smaller one.
Overall, this is a highly informative and enjoyable video for anyone interested in engineering. It showcases your talent and expertise while providing valuable insights and inspiration to fellow enthusiasts. Keep up the great work, and I look forward to watching more of your content in the future 👍👍👍
I don't know if the terminology has become blurred or they've died out (my books and tools are all ancient), but "slot mills" are the thing for cutting those threads. They have two flutes and an offset centre divot to allow cutting on both edges. Also, they do tailstocks for use with rotary tables (although perhaps your mill bed isn't long enough) which would have helped.
Hey bud, great content! If you have an adjustable wrench you are willing to sacrifice, a cheap/ excellent alternative to a large tap wrench, is to weld a bar to the adjustable jaw, equal to the length of the handle of the wrench. I carried one with me for field repairs and it did the trick for years. You may be experiencing high side loading on the tap without support on both sides of the centerline of the tap. Hope this helps!
Not sure if this would work since I have never done the work you are doing but could you have used a 4mm ball end mill to make the initial cut for the threads then fallow up the final pass with a regular 4mm end mill? You said that the tool puts a lot of end pressure on the bits and it looks like the ball end bits look to be able to handle that load. Love your content and you make it look so easy that I want to get these tools to start making my own stuff instead of having others do it for me.
You mentioned that the helical cutting was using the bottom of the endmill and that was increasing the cutting force. Couldn't you offset the Y axis half the cutter diameter so that the leading edge of the end mill was at the centerline of the part? This would end up with a slightly rounded bottom of the grooves you are cutting, but it would mean the cutting was all done by the sides of the end mill instead of the sides and bottom.
Para asegurarte que el "Thread Tap" quede centrado podés hacerlo en el torno apoyando suavemente el contrapunto. Esto también permite aplicar fuerza con la llave francesa sin preocupaciones, pues no se torcerá.
You really do have far more patience than I have. Brilliant little project, but jeez, my arm hurts just looking at the worn hacksaw blade. Have to say I have a sense of anticipation to see what the main project is.
There's no need to go to th 23:00 e trouble of buying a single socket, standard socket sets come with square nut sockets already. DUH. Michael said that, bye for now my friends.
Thats a big ambitious project for a shed guy well done like many others here single sided handle is no good need a double or possibly multi handle tap wrench with lots of leverage especially for steel looking forward to the next one
cracking job that, I have wondered how pig a tap you can safely make and turn by hand, I wonder if you could make a die big enough to do the same thread .. Thanks for sharing
The whole time I was watching you make them taps I was thinking how the heck do you drive or muscle through that large of a tap ! Wheeew, that’s gonna take some grit. Lol 😂 They turned out great looking and left a nice thread though. 👍👍
Fantastic job. Would cutting the flutes before the threads help with bit loading/chip removal? Would also prevent the burr on the threads. Not a machinist, just a fan!
May I ask if the case carbon hardening does harden only the outer layer of the metal or does it add carbon all the way through the metal till the core of it? I’ve always heard that it only hardens few millimeters of the outer layer…
The rate it diffuses is fractions of a mm per hour. It’s not a very efficient process but sometimes it’s the easiest depending on availability of materials
It would be trivial to order a proper tapered end mill for the job. 25-55$ for a new one within the first five hits on Google-and you get a standard metric trapezoidal thread when you're done. Most large taps like this will be made as duplex taps-a V-thread tap preceeding the square/acme/trapezoidal thread-and it would be entirely appropriate to mill off the left or right side every other tooth or every third tooth depending on the number of flutes on the tap, and alternate the missing side of the tooth on alternating flutes. This further reduces the cutting forces. So-make a V-thread tap, then relieve your tap alternating left-flank/right flank/full tooth profile.
That's amazing work, I would have thought turning metal cutting taps would be outside the limits of a home machine shop. Did you end up using a cheap airbrush for cooling or did you have to spend more?
A good thing to remember when making the relief cuts. from personal experience using acme taps they always wear out on top of the trailing metal behind the cutting surface, after a few uses it ends up super polished and that seems to make the tap take a lot less torque to move, so for your application it might be worth to polish the taps then sharpen it, you will get a better finish!
I have been, and am still, impressed by your strength and persistence cutting large stock with a hacksaw!! I understand your resource and space restraints but that does not dimmish the effort you expend! Well done sir! Great vid too!
Should we start a crowd funding campain to buy this man a band saw?!
For easier covering with the borax flux wrap a metallic mesh around the flux! Nice work brother!
I appreciate that this guy was willing to tell us about all the problems he had. A lot of people leave all that out and make it seem like child's play 🤣
Now that you have moved up to tool-making, maybe it's at least time for a power hacksaw...
When I saw him start that with a hack saw I oof'd, out loud, haha
Great to see the hacksaw making yet another appearance. Your cuts are a lot straighter than mine. Man! What a project, especially as it’s a project to make a project. Looking forward to seeing that project! Thanks for all your work. Les in UK 🇬🇧
Years of hacksaw practice has paid off
@@artisanmakes - It probably builds on the strength you have gained since your teenage years from doing a similar hand/arm motion 😂😂
@@johncoops6897 looooooooool
For the cutting of the tread, take 2 fix wrenches to get More power and dont get the power from only one side like on the adjustable wrench. For example two 36 wrenches. Great content!!!
What he said. I figured someone would have already beaten me to it.
Outstanding work. Your problem solving approach is intelligent, and skillful, and your execution is fearless. You just dive right in. Respect. Side note, your videos are also fan-friggin-tastic. Making vids is harder than it looks and yours are so clear and easy to follow. I am stealing idea... I mean, "taking notes"... 😅
What an effort. Well done you.
You are truly tapped mate, the size of those bloody things. Well done, you'll be well screwed once you turn them through steel. Thank you for sharing your time.
Making a set of huge (for the size of your machines), square thread taps, by helical milling, from hot rolled mild steel, then case hardening seems ridiculously ambitious on the face of it. I'm amazed that you have pulled it off. Seriously well done. What is your favourite brand of hacksaw blade?
Same here - MacGyver would be proud. For most of the video, I just kept watching because I wanted to see if the next thing would work. You can increase the carbon content of steel by baking it with charcoal? Wow. A+ for raw cleverness
@@dirkv.9013 That's OLD school metalworker stuff there
I use suttons cobalt blades. Cheers
I'm dying of curiosity now to see what project you will use these massive taps on. Can't wait.
I love the way you increased the carbon during the hardening in charcoal packing boxes, I'm a hobby machinist and never did that before
I absolutely love your videos. Discovered you when I had to be in hospital for 2 weeks in last December, and ended up bingewatching every video you had out at that time
So is that a 40mm tap in your pocket... Oh God it is! 👍
"Hide yo kids, hide yo wife"
Great workout
I don't know what size you did the square drive, but if it is 1 inch or close to a standard socket drive diameter, buy a single socket, cross drill a hole so you can insert a bar and drive the tap using the square in the socket. Pretty sure that would work?
But it'd be a lot funnier to make a comically large tap wrench to go with the comically large taps. :D
Socket and 3/4” drive impact wrench.
They commercially make 8 pt sockets for use on square nuts. A lot easier to just pick up a socket of the appropriate size if it is a normal size square.
Correct myself months later after watching him use the taps. 1” drive impact wrench.
Hey there nice vid!
A tip from a machinist and engineer: the relief angel you need to improve the tap more is on the taper of the tap. It's hard to explain in a comment but the cutting tooth have no clearance angle right now, because the outer shape was formed on a lathe. You can easily do this on the grinder by hand on the tapered part of the taps.
I highly recommend the video from thisoldtony on this topic.
Anyhow keep up the good work and have a nice day 🤘🏻
I mentioned in the end that I have the intention of doing that but my new set of grinding wheels hasn’t turned up yet
You made it clear you were waiting for wheels and it will be more difficult to grind into hardened steel. I guess from a project management point of view you get the job done faster by shifting work before the wheels arrive at a small cost of having the grinding a bit more difficult.
How long did it take to grind relief?
It’s usually a fairly quick job but I have yet to get around to it
i swear. every time i see a machinist pull up the machinery's handbook i know sh*t just got real
Great minds think alike. Using an air brush as a mist coolant sprayer. Glad to see it on YT.
hi. this is my favourite youtube channel at the moment!
Square threads are actually stronger in applications like pressure vessels because they have no taper which would act as a wedge and rip apart either itself or the mating surface when pressiz3d internally
this is why my brother has several editions of "Machinery's Handbook" going back to the first edition. The information comes and goes, and sometimes the old ways are best.
Yeah seems that even though there’s is 2000 plus pages they still have to removed old information
Can't wait to see the application of these threads!
I would just make the drive end 6 sided, so you can use a proper socket and whatever wrench you want. Most times when I and others I've worked with, use larger taps you end up finding the closest socket and using a 3/4 drive rachet anyway, because tap handles that size are too awkward and bulky to be able to use where you need them on a lot of machines (need too much space to spin the handle).
Plus if you do it before cutting the threads it will give the chuck flats to hold onto.
You could make 6 sides work with a normal tap handle as well if you change the angle in the holding inserts from 90 degrees to 120 degrees.
You obviously didn't listen to all the idiots that say you can't make anything worthwhile in a small machine shop, Congratulations for proving them wrong and for all the information and entertainment you provide .Thank you
sweet!...can't wait to see what you need those taps for. 🤣🤔
Nice work. I used to tap some inch and a quarter BSW threads through 30mm mild steel plate, for die sets for sheet metal. Anyhow we used a tap wrench that was about 3 feet long and even then it was hard work. And this is 40mm and square. Good job and good luck.
Looking forward to that tap wrench video!
Holy smokes! 😮
Cutting edge engineering would be proud of that result on such a small lathe and mill. How you pulled it off is legend! 😊
hitting it with the wire wheel after hardening seems counter productive
First time I have seen taps created. This contect was well organized and enjoyable to watch. Many thanks.
One of these days you should setup a electronic lead screw for the lathe.
So you were saying that you hope that it would follow the groves from the previous tap. Something that I do to prevent cross threading when putting in a bolt is I will start by running the bolt backwards until it falls into the threads, this way I know for a fact that the bolt is properly seated before sending the bolt home. This is super helpful to save your projects and bolts and it doesn't take but a second or two.
It’s more so that fact that the lead angle of the threads changes with these types of taps. It’s ever so slight but there is a change. I was worried that it might try and cut a different helix as a result
@@artisanmakes Ooh, okay.
That makes a lot of sense. Thank you for clearing that for me 😊
That trick of mine is really helpful tho. 😁
I really liked the video, you do good quality work.
If you weld a bar to the fixed jaw of the adjustables, makes a quick simple tap wrench. Not very fancy, but I'm assuming you're not going to be 40mm tapping for a living. 😄
*Thank you for a very good video. Valuable leason learned!* 👍❤😊
WOW, masterfully done. I learn so much from your videos! Thanks for taking us along and take care!
tbh the begining with a 1914 machinist handbook with a WHOLE SECTION about why you should NOT do it, immediatelly followed by handsawing commically large pole, immediatelly followed by revelation that you did it 3 times is peak comedy
The airbrush coolant dispenser is very creative. Thanks for the interesting project.
Blacksmiths use an adjustable wrench with a bar welded onto the head for twisting steel, something as simple as that could work as a bigger tap wrench unless you have plans to make one of those too
I can't wait to see the dividing head rebuild 😂😂
I keep forgetting just how much chemistry is involved with metalworking. I'm a professional carpenter, so I don't even know what I'm doing here.
@infrabread it's just like woodworking just you're working with petrified wood and modified stones. Some basic principles apply to both occupations.
It’s not too different to wood selection and grain structure that you have to consider.
Never seen anyone do this. Amazing. Well done mate. Cheers.
Can't wait to see the machine you're building.
I love the fact that the book was just straight up "Don't do this. You shouldn't do this. It's a pain in the ass. OK, now here's how you do it."
22:35 You can have a square holed spanner lasercut out of 10mm steel sheet, or weld up something from 2 pieces of 10x40 flat bar.
Thats honestly pretty nuts. I cant wait to see it in action on whichever project youre using it for. Incredible project, thanks for sharing!
I was thinking that guy with your skills cuts the material with a ordinary hacksaw. Respect on that.
PLINK!! ... broke the tap off in the workpiece
...unlikely. 😁👍
So you say, but literally this last week the boss broke a 35mm. It makes quite the trophy!
i think what you could try when forming the flutes and therefore the cutting edge is grinding them with a dremel and small ball grinder in the lathe with only the crosslide. You should get a pretty prestine finish that way.
Good work. We love big tools. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Great work man! It would definitely help a lot with the high cutting force to hit the sides of the teeth in the grooves with a stone or a diamond. They are likely extremely dull after all the machining, rough filing and wire brushing.
He did say he was waiting for his cup stone to hone them.
Interesting. I liked the video, but I would have purchased a TR40 tap from Aceteel instead of trying to make one though. They cost about $350 US dollars, but that is cheaper than I could make one. I have designed large automated equipment that used large linear drive screws and never had a problem finding large taps or screws. It will be very interesting to find out what this project is. Great video and I truly enjoyed it!
Prices for stuff like that vary widely depending on where you are in the world. Where I am I would pay as much as you pay for the big one for a way smaller one.
Holy smoke, I can’t imagine what you need such big taps for. Very interesting video. Thank you. 👏👏👍😀
With the relief should be easier to cut. Nice job!
Easy way for a quick tap wrench. Just weld a piece of rod to the adjustable wrench to give yourself 2 handles
Overall, this is a highly informative and enjoyable video for anyone interested in engineering. It showcases your talent and expertise while providing valuable insights and inspiration to fellow enthusiasts. Keep up the great work, and I look forward to watching more of your content in the future 👍👍👍
I don't know if the terminology has become blurred or they've died out (my books and tools are all ancient), but "slot mills" are the thing for cutting those threads. They have two flutes and an offset centre divot to allow cutting on both edges.
Also, they do tailstocks for use with rotary tables (although perhaps your mill bed isn't long enough) which would have helped.
He should have had his Y axis inwards so the outside edge of his bit was aligned with the center of the rod, rather than center on center.
Hey bud, great content! If you have an adjustable wrench you are willing to sacrifice, a cheap/ excellent alternative to a large tap wrench, is to weld a bar to the adjustable jaw, equal to the length of the handle of the wrench. I carried one with me for field repairs and it did the trick for years. You may be experiencing high side loading on the tap without support on both sides of the centerline of the tap. Hope this helps!
Good ideas, great execution. Thanks for showing us.
Not sure if this would work since I have never done the work you are doing but could you have used a 4mm ball end mill to make the initial cut for the threads then fallow up the final pass with a regular 4mm end mill? You said that the tool puts a lot of end pressure on the bits and it looks like the ball end bits look to be able to handle that load. Love your content and you make it look so easy that I want to get these tools to start making my own stuff instead of having others do it for me.
You mentioned that the helical cutting was using the bottom of the endmill and that was increasing the cutting force. Couldn't you offset the Y axis half the cutter diameter so that the leading edge of the end mill was at the centerline of the part? This would end up with a slightly rounded bottom of the grooves you are cutting, but it would mean the cutting was all done by the sides of the end mill instead of the sides and bottom.
Para asegurarte que el "Thread Tap" quede centrado podés hacerlo en el torno apoyando suavemente el contrapunto. Esto también permite aplicar fuerza con la llave francesa sin preocupaciones, pues no se torcerá.
You really do have far more patience than I have. Brilliant little project, but jeez, my arm hurts just looking at the worn hacksaw blade.
Have to say I have a sense of anticipation to see what the main project is.
My arm hurts too and I've got a 4x6" metal bandsaw!
Holy smokes mate, is that for an oil rig? 🤣 Great work as always. I appreciate your approach "If it works = Success!" Respect.
There's no need to go to th 23:00 e trouble of buying a single socket, standard socket sets come with square nut sockets already. DUH. Michael said that, bye for now my friends.
Impressive 👍 🇬🇧
Thats a big ambitious project for a shed guy well done like many others here single sided handle is no good need a double or possibly multi handle tap wrench with lots of leverage especially for steel looking forward to the next one
Nice job. FYI ammonia takes polymerized oil off very well.
That's an impressive project. Greetings from sunny Adelaide.
awesome video. for future use, you can buy tapered end mills for machining injection molds.
Great vid as always. please tell me you made these taps for some part for a bandsaw your making to get away from the hack saw?
They are so impressive taps. Time for a comedically large tap wrench now? (Oh, I said that before you mentioned it. Maybe a ratcheting one?)
Or as Crocodile Dundee would have put it: That's not a tap! This is a tap! 🤣
cracking job that, I have wondered how pig a tap you can safely make and turn by hand, I wonder if you could make a die big enough to do the same thread ..
Thanks for sharing
The whole time I was watching you make them taps I was thinking how the heck do you drive or muscle through that large of a tap ! Wheeew, that’s gonna take some grit. Lol 😂
They turned out great looking and left a nice thread though. 👍👍
My respects this is something really outstanding, keep it up!
You could maybe grind the back of each tooth to relieve the tool friction
Fantastic job. Would cutting the flutes before the threads help with bit loading/chip removal? Would also prevent the burr on the threads. Not a machinist, just a fan!
Feeling some ToT inspired vibes from your video. I think you got a new subscriber
I'm REALLY curious what these taps are for.
Great work.
I do think you should be using something better than a Queensland vernier to turn the tap, though. 😉
Finally a tap that doesn't break. it rather breaks me!
The hardening process was particularly interesting. Thanks!
How awesome. That is really good 👍👍
"That's not a tap. THIS is a tap." -- Crocodile Dundee, probably
I really don't understand why you don't own a bandsaw by now, even a small one would make your life so much easier.
or a sawzall!
Or two f#cks what anyone else thinks. Oh wait!
@@christofs-a1834 ha nice one
May I ask if the case carbon hardening does harden only the outer layer of the metal or does it add carbon all the way through the metal till the core of it? I’ve always heard that it only hardens few millimeters of the outer layer…
The rate it diffuses is fractions of a mm per hour. It’s not a very efficient process but sometimes it’s the easiest depending on availability of materials
You should cut your flutes so that the cutting edge of the flute is the centerline of the tap. It will have its own back relief.
Could 2 adjustable wrenches work better? One sticking out to either side, forming a t-shaped handle?
Finally, a tap that won't break if I look at it funny!
It would be trivial to order a proper tapered end mill for the job. 25-55$ for a new one within the first five hits on Google-and you get a standard metric trapezoidal thread when you're done. Most large taps like this will be made as duplex taps-a V-thread tap preceeding the square/acme/trapezoidal thread-and it would be entirely appropriate to mill off the left or right side every other tooth or every third tooth depending on the number of flutes on the tap, and alternate the missing side of the tooth on alternating flutes. This further reduces the cutting forces. So-make a V-thread tap, then relieve your tap alternating left-flank/right flank/full tooth profile.
Damn, son, you could start the local chapter of the Arcane Yet Functional Leadscrew Generation Society. Very nice.
Somebody get this guy a metal bandsaw!
im not really that much into metal works.. but wouldnt a ratchet maybe do the trick as a handle?
That's amazing work, I would have thought turning metal cutting taps would be outside the limits of a home machine shop. Did you end up using a cheap airbrush for cooling or did you have to spend more?
Can you just weld two adjustable wrenches together? Or just a handle on the stationary jaw?
When Keith made a odd ball tap I thought he should have found a matching V thread tap to reduce the amount of load.
Mind. Blown. Amazing job!