Thanks Mr Brook! This R100RT -95 owner finds these videos very informative and useful. My pushrod tubes are looking quite nasty and I`m about to replace them. Cheers from Sweden!
Hi Brook's, how bout a video on actually installing a crank, end plays etc........Thanks for the great videos so far way better than any BMW videos I've seen.
Scott, Well, that work is very precise and if you do it incorrectly, you ruin the engine. So, I'm reluctant to post just a video as it won't contain all the information you need to understand if you decide you have the tools and skills to attempt that work. That said, I did post documentation about how I did that work on my web site. --> brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/11-bmw-1983-r100rs-install-crankshaft-adjust-end-float-install-camshaft/ Thank you for the kind words.
Jordi, Cool beans. I'm glad this work went well for you. You will find other videos with links to detailed procedures for doing the rest of the work installing the charging system on the outside of the inner timing cover.
thanks for sharing! why is it necessary to heat up the cover before installing? should this piece also be painted with high temp paint over powder coating?
Hi c1audio. The cover is aluminum and is not painted or powder coated on this bike. There is a bearing on the crankshaft nose that has to seat inside the cover, so heat is applied to expand the aluminum so it will slide over the bearing allowing it to seat correctly.
Thanks for the helpful tip and informative videos! Keep em coming. First time builder here. Would you recommend using a ceramic heat paint on this particular cover? Or would powder coat be ok for this Spot
@@c1audio The cover may get to 180 F or so. I've used brake caliper paint (expoxy based) on engine components such as the top cover with no problem. Powder coat will chip from rocks and gravel being throw up by the front tire, so I'd likely use paint which is easier to touch up.
HI, great video thanks. I don't have that special circular tool to hold the cover after you fixed the doughnut top bolts. If you don't have that tool then can you simple push the cover on gently? Thanks
Hi nShafiq, If you heat the cover you should be able to press it onto the nose bearing without the tool. Most of the ones I have worked on slide onto the nose bearing pretty easily.
Brook's Airhead Garage thank you so much for your reply. I watch your videos with a lot of interest. They are so clear and precise. Full of technical details and a joy to watch. Can I also please ask you about placing this cover in the oven when the rubber central seal is already attached. Will the rubber seal not melt or get damaged? How long do I put it in the oven and at what temperature. Many thanks
@@Shafiq1969 That's a good question to ask. The seal is okay if you heat the cover to 180-200 F before installing it. The seal is designed to withstand this temperature as it gets hot inside the front engine cover next to the motor.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Hi, I am struggling to remove my centre stand so that I can clean and repaint it. The two bolts holding the stand are clashing with the engine sump pan. What is the sequence of removing this item? Will appreciate your feedback. Thank you
@@Shafiq1969 I removed the oil pan to get the bolts out. Later I learned that if you can grip the shoulder of the bushing the bolt fits in, you can pull it out of the hole in the center stand. That provides enough room to tilt the bolt and get it out of the hole and past the oil pan. I have not tried that technique but it comes from a long time airhead mechanic, so it should work. Here is a link to how I removed the center stand. brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/00-bmw-1983-r100rs-disassembly/#Remove_Center_Stand
Thanks Mr Brook!
This R100RT -95 owner finds these videos very informative and useful.
My pushrod tubes are looking quite nasty and I`m about to replace them.
Cheers from Sweden!
Hi Brook's, how bout a video on actually installing a crank, end plays etc........Thanks for the great videos so far way better than any BMW videos I've seen.
Scott, Well, that work is very precise and if you do it incorrectly, you ruin the engine. So, I'm reluctant to post just a video as it won't contain all the information you need to understand if you decide you have the tools and skills to attempt that work. That said, I did post documentation about how I did that work on my web site.
--> brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/11-bmw-1983-r100rs-install-crankshaft-adjust-end-float-install-camshaft/
Thank you for the kind words.
Thanks i did it this morning!!! Thanks a lot
Jordi, Cool beans. I'm glad this work went well for you. You will find other videos with links to detailed procedures for doing the rest of the work installing the charging system on the outside of the inner timing cover.
thanks for sharing! why is it necessary to heat up the cover before installing?
should this piece also be painted with high temp paint over powder coating?
Hi c1audio. The cover is aluminum and is not painted or powder coated on this bike. There is a bearing on the crankshaft nose that has to seat inside the cover, so heat is applied to expand the aluminum so it will slide over the bearing allowing it to seat correctly.
Thanks for the helpful tip and informative videos! Keep em coming. First time builder here.
Would you recommend using a ceramic heat paint on this particular cover? Or would powder coat be ok for this Spot
@@c1audio The cover may get to 180 F or so. I've used brake caliper paint (expoxy based) on engine components such as the top cover with no problem. Powder coat will chip from rocks and gravel being throw up by the front tire, so I'd likely use paint which is easier to touch up.
HI, great video thanks. I don't have that special circular tool to hold the cover after you fixed the doughnut top bolts. If you don't have that tool then can you simple push the cover on gently? Thanks
Hi nShafiq, If you heat the cover you should be able to press it onto the nose bearing without the tool. Most of the ones I have worked on slide onto the nose bearing pretty easily.
Brook's Airhead Garage thank you so much for your reply. I watch your videos with a lot of interest. They are so clear and precise. Full of technical details and a joy to watch. Can I also please ask you about placing this cover in the oven when the rubber central seal is already attached. Will the rubber seal not melt or get damaged? How long do I put it in the oven and at what temperature. Many thanks
@@Shafiq1969 That's a good question to ask. The seal is okay if you heat the cover to 180-200 F before installing it. The seal is designed to withstand this temperature as it gets hot inside the front engine cover next to the motor.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage Hi, I am struggling to remove my centre stand so that I can clean and repaint it. The two bolts holding the stand are clashing with the engine sump pan. What is the sequence of removing this item? Will appreciate your feedback. Thank you
@@Shafiq1969 I removed the oil pan to get the bolts out. Later I learned that if you can grip the shoulder of the bushing the bolt fits in, you can pull it out of the hole in the center stand. That provides enough room to tilt the bolt and get it out of the hole and past the oil pan. I have not tried that technique but it comes from a long time airhead mechanic, so it should work.
Here is a link to how I removed the center stand. brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1983-bmw-r100rs-rebuild-project-index/00-bmw-1983-r100rs-disassembly/#Remove_Center_Stand