I did this job about 2 years ago and matched most of your steps by trial and error. But didn’t know the driveshaft/transmission boot was “handed” and the troubleshooting for the source of the ensuing leak drove me nuts. I literally exhausted every other possible source until the boot was the only thing left! I made it way too complicated and felt like an idiot. I learned “ when you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras”! Great video, Brook! Thanks !
@Roger Shepherd i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out now. Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
Hi Nils, thank you for you kind words. I'm pleased this video is helpful to you. Don't forget to click the link in the video summary under the video pane to the detailed description of how I did this work. There is more important material there than I can fit in a video.
Very detailed and clear video with good information thanks it’s been a real help for me with my own .I would like to ad that the tip with the magnet is great but I came up with a way so you don’t drop any I twisted a bread bag wire tie around bolt and easily put in then pushed gator so it puts light pressure on bolt holding it steady while you do bolt up also this blocks passage to the obis of the swing arm 😉hope this helps someone else or even yourself if doing another or a person with fat fingers and clumzyitus like me 😂
You're welcome Mark. Don't forget to click the links in the video summary. They take you to my web site and complete documentation of how I do the work including part numbers and special tools.
Brook, You mention shifting the trans into second to spin the gears and then back into neutral while getting the gear oil moved throughout the trans. I shifted my gear oil filled trans into first but can't get it back into neutral (by hand). Do you think this should be cause for concern? BTW...I did not open the trans case...only drained the gear oil and then refilled at time of install. Thanks. Jim
Hi Brook, Excellent how to videos really helping me get around and understand my airhead. Quick question for you or any of your viewers. My 1995 r100 GSPD has a leak at the gearshift seal. Can I remove the bolt and shaft entirely to replace the new seal without having any of the gears slip out of place there by preventing me from installing the bolt and shaft properly? Thx, Petr
My '77 r100/7 has started a downshift problem. When I pull in the clutch and down shift, it will won't go all the way to the lower gear, it clunked and made you think it did, but let out the clutch and give gas and it turns out to be in between gears. Pull in clutch and do it again and then it goes to lower gear. Thoughts? Do the splines just need lubed or is it something internal.
no shifting issues now. I took the transmission into a BMW dealer and they said the shifting paw inside was assembled backwards. Odd that it worked so well for so long but whatever, works good now
hi brook i like your tutorials, very clear and well done and detailed with love just a quick note: should you install the pushrod before putting the trannie into the frame ? from my experience it is too long to be fiddled in later since the swingarm and frame cross members will be in the way ? greetz from germany
Hi Matthias, Thank you for the kind words and coming by to see this video. I explain in the video, (about 1 min in) and in the detailed procedure I wrote that's posted at the link in the video summary, that I install the push rod into the input shaft before mounting the transmission. You are correct about not being able to install it with the transmission in the frame.
So Brook...what happens if the swingarm to trans boot is installed backwards? I just finished the boot and connecting the drive shaft to the trans output and noticed it is backwards. I don't mind buying new stretch bolts but don't look forward to the "gymnastics" of reinstalling the bolts and boot.
Hi Brook...thank you for another great video. Q. is there a felt used on the clutch rod? Seems you didn't add it in this video? If it is required, what would the consequences be if it's not used? Cheers
Congrats for all this videos!!!!! Amazing how useful they are! I have one question, do I need to the out all the transmition to change the rubber that connects the back of the trasmition and the swingarm??? Thanks a lot for your answer!
Hi Albert, You can replace the rubber boot between the swing arm and the transmission with the transmission in place. You will need to remove the four drive shaft bolts to get the boot installed and then install the bolts as shown in this video.
Hello Brook - I hit a road block this morning... After installing the alternator, diode bridge and new clutch assembly, my motor would still spin. However, when I installed the trans, bolted up the drive shaft and started reinstalling the cylinder/heads, I couldn't spin the motor to get exactly on TDC on flat spot of cam lobes. I dropped the trans into 1st and tried turning the drive shaft. I also tried spinning and the piston rods. No joy. I plan on pulling the trans to see if the motor spins without the trans. Can you think of any "gotchas" I might have fallen into to cause the motor not to spin? Jim
@@jimhovland7672 Hmm ... I've not run into this problem before. I guess I would install the clutch again with the bolts finger tight. Then rotate the engine and try to see what is obstructing the rotation.
Love the video. I have a question about the process you use to make your aluminum so fresh. My engine builder says using any kind of blasting media clogs the oil ports. Any suggestions
Hi Ish, I don't bead blast the engine block. I did bead blast the transmission case and then cleaned it three times with hot soapy water and a final hot water rinse. Then I used a white napkin and cleaned the inside surfaces to ensure there was no grit from the glass beads. For engine blocks, I use degreaser, aluminum cleaner, abrasive pads and aluminum polish. I published the techniques I use for refinishing parts in this document posted on my web site: --> brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1973-bmw-r755-rebuild-project/51-bmw-r755-refinishing-techniques/ If you bead blast the engine block, you haver to completely strip everything from it. Then you have to clean out all the oil galleys and passages. Folks have used gun cleaning rods for that work, but it takes a long time. There are lots of nooks and crannies inside the engine block and that makes it very difficult to be absolutely sure there are no bits of glass bead left inside the block. That's why I never bead blast an engine block.
brooks its a very detailed video many thanks for taking the trouble to post this- i would like to know on the heads of the r100 did you paint the top surface or had it power coated- ?
Rahul, Thank you for your kind words. I painted the valve covers using brake caliper paint. After 24 hours drying, I baked them in the oven at 200 F for 30 minutes to harden the paint.
Hi Alan, I have no idea as I don't know if the needle bearing is larger or smaller than the hole for the bushing. I did the beer can fix on my '77 RS build back in 2016-17 and with just about 10,000 miles on it, the foot shift lever is still solid.
Great video Brook! I liked the tip about fishing a dropped bolt out of the swing arm (those insights are valuable for rookies). Question: why couldn’t you leave the transmission in gear (I’d say 4th or 5th) and then just rotate the output shaft assist in lining up the input spline with the clutch hub?
Hi Peter, It's very easy to turn the transmission input shaft just a small amount to align with the clutch. My fingers are long enough to reach the input shaft to make the adjustment. And, I can look at the clutch and input shaft from the front of the transmission while I balance it. That would not be as easy reaching around to turn the output shaft. And it would be much harder to turn since I would be spinning all three shafts in the transmission.
Your video is well made enjoy it very much l love it ，it is helping me alot thank you ，l got a 72 -R75/5 4 speed with kicker l love it， would be to have 5 speed on it .possible to conver it to 5 speed？
Hi jbhallowell, guilty as charged :-) But, I also ended up in sales, marketing, finance, mergers & acquisitions and ran my own small company for a couple years. In short, I'm not sure what I want to be when I grow up. :-)
![[A's BMW vol.11] Engine & Gear Box build.エンジン＆ミッション組み立て。BMW R100RS](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/BWv4szYUud0/mqdefault.jpg)
Thanks again for continuing to build an incredible resource for future airhead owners.
Thank you SuperNova. :-)
I did this job about 2 years ago and matched most of your steps by trial and error. But didn’t know the driveshaft/transmission boot was “handed” and the troubleshooting for the source of the ensuing leak drove me nuts. I literally exhausted every other possible source until the boot was the only thing left! I made it way too complicated and felt like an idiot. I learned “ when you hear hoofbeats, think horses, not zebras”! Great video, Brook! Thanks !
Hi Frank, Indeed, sometimes it is the simple or easy stuff that's at fault. Glad you successfully completed your transmission project. Stay well.
Beautiful machine thanks for sharing. I have a 1988rt I plan on working on
you really raise the bar for cleaning the castings, dang!
Thanks for the content. Extremely useful 👍 One step closer to getting the RT back on the road!
Thank you Mike. Best of success on this project.
@Devin Cedric Instablaster :)
@Roger Shepherd i really appreciate your reply. I found the site through google and I'm trying it out now.
Takes a while so I will reply here later when my account password hopefully is recovered.
@Roger Shepherd it worked and I finally got access to my account again. I'm so happy!
Thanks so much you really help me out :D
@Devin Cedric you are welcome xD
Beautiful clean bike! Very clear explanations which will help me with planning my work on my ‘91 R100Gs PD.
Hi Nils, thank you for you kind words. I'm pleased this video is helpful to you. Don't forget to click the link in the video summary under the video pane to the detailed description of how I did this work. There is more important material there than I can fit in a video.
Your Tutorials are Brilliant Brook and very enjoyable to watch even though I hope not to do any of these jobs.
You're very kind Malcolm. I did consider these as "entertainment", but each to his own :-)
I love this guy 🙏🏼👍🏻👌🏻
Very detailed and clear video with good information thanks it’s been a real help for me with my own .I would like to ad that the tip with the magnet is great but I came up with a way so you don’t drop any I twisted a bread bag wire tie around bolt and easily put in then pushed gator so it puts light pressure on bolt holding it steady while you do bolt up also this blocks passage to the obis of the swing arm 😉hope this helps someone else or even yourself if doing another or a person with fat fingers and clumzyitus like me 😂
Carl, thank you for sharing this tip. I always learn new techniques on every project.
love the beer can solution... (as a shim) 👍
thanks so much for your videos very helpful !
You're welcome Mark. Don't forget to click the links in the video summary. They take you to my web site and complete documentation of how I do the work including part numbers and special tools.
Thank you Brook!
Best of success Albert.
Brook, You mention shifting the trans into second to spin the gears and then back into neutral while getting the gear oil moved throughout the trans. I shifted my gear oil filled trans into first but can't get it back into neutral (by hand). Do you think this should be cause for concern? BTW...I did not open the trans case...only drained the gear oil and then refilled at time of install. Thanks.
Jim
Jim, It can be hard to shift if don't pull in the clutch..
Hi Brook,
Excellent how to videos really helping me get around and understand my airhead.
Quick question for you or any of your viewers.
My 1995 r100 GSPD has a leak at the gearshift seal. Can I remove the bolt and shaft entirely to replace the new seal without having any of the gears slip out of place there by preventing me from installing the bolt and shaft properly?
Thx,
Petr
Peter, you can replace the foot shift lever seal by removing the shift lever and pulling out the seal.
@@BrooksAirheadGarage
I was nervous but feel better now!😊
Thank you,
Petr
My '77 r100/7 has started a downshift problem. When I pull in the clutch and down shift, it will won't go all the way to the lower gear, it clunked and made you think it did, but let out the clutch and give gas and it turns out to be in between gears. Pull in clutch and do it again and then it goes to lower gear. Thoughts? Do the splines just need lubed or is it something internal.
Brandon, I’d lube the splines and see if that makes shifting smoother
Lubed the trans input shaft and didn't make a difference. Suggestions?
@@brandonlutz338 Well, it's time to open the transmission and look at all the parts for wear or other issues.
no shifting issues now. I took the transmission into a BMW dealer and they said the shifting paw inside was assembled backwards. Odd that it worked so well for so long but whatever, works good now
hi brook
i like your tutorials, very clear and well done and detailed with love
just a quick note: should you install the pushrod before putting the trannie into the frame ? from my experience it is too long to be fiddled in later since the swingarm and frame cross members will be in the way ? greetz from germany
Hi Matthias, Thank you for the kind words and coming by to see this video. I explain in the video, (about 1 min in) and in the detailed procedure I wrote that's posted at the link in the video summary, that I install the push rod into the input shaft before mounting the transmission. You are correct about not being able to install it with the transmission in the frame.
So Brook...what happens if the swingarm to trans boot is installed backwards? I just finished the boot and connecting the drive shaft to the trans output and noticed it is backwards. I don't mind buying new stretch bolts but don't look forward to the "gymnastics" of reinstalling the bolts and boot.
Jim, it will most likely leak since the swing arm tube is rectangular and the transmission output shaft sleeve is circular.
Hi Brook...thank you for another great video. Q. is there a felt used on the clutch rod? Seems you didn't add it in this video? If it is required, what would the consequences be if it's not used? Cheers
The felt was replaced with a seal starting in the 1981 model year
What is that red engine dipstick?
Interesting.
It’s a reminder there is no oil in the engine. I put red tape where there is work I need to complete ad a reminder.
Great idea, thanks.
Could you tell me what paint is used on the Engine and Transmission? Thank you!
Wayartio, they are not painted. The transmission and engine case were cleaned by hand.
Congrats for all this videos!!!!! Amazing how useful they are! I have one question, do I need to the out all the transmition to change the rubber that connects the back of the trasmition and the swingarm??? Thanks a lot for your answer!
Hi Albert, You can replace the rubber boot between the swing arm and the transmission with the transmission in place. You will need to remove the four drive shaft bolts to get the boot installed and then install the bolts as shown in this video.
❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤
Hello Brook - I hit a road block this morning... After installing the alternator, diode bridge and new clutch assembly, my motor would still spin. However, when I installed the trans, bolted up the drive shaft and started reinstalling the cylinder/heads, I couldn't spin the motor to get exactly on TDC on flat spot of cam lobes.
I dropped the trans into 1st and tried turning the drive shaft. I also tried spinning and the piston rods. No joy. I plan on pulling the trans to see if the motor spins without the trans. Can you think of any "gotchas" I might have fallen into to cause the motor not to spin?
Jim
Brook - update - pulled the trans and motor still won't turn.
Brook - update 2 - removed the clutch assembly and engine rotates. Not sure why the clutch prevents rotation. Any suggetions?
@@jimhovland7672 Hmm ... I've not run into this problem before. I guess I would install the clutch again with the bolts finger tight. Then rotate the engine and try to see what is obstructing the rotation.
Final update - resolved. The issue was clutch alignment.
@@jimhovland7672 As I like to say, Endeavour to Persevere 🙂
Love the video. I have a question about the process you use to make your aluminum so fresh. My engine builder says using any kind of blasting media clogs the oil ports. Any suggestions
Hi Ish, I don't bead blast the engine block. I did bead blast the transmission case and then cleaned it three times with hot soapy water and a final hot water rinse. Then I used a white napkin and cleaned the inside surfaces to ensure there was no grit from the glass beads.
For engine blocks, I use degreaser, aluminum cleaner, abrasive pads and aluminum polish. I published the techniques I use for refinishing parts in this document posted on my web site:
--> brook.reams.me/bmw-motorcycle-rebuilds/1973-bmw-r755-rebuild-project/51-bmw-r755-refinishing-techniques/
If you bead blast the engine block, you haver to completely strip everything from it. Then you have to clean out all the oil galleys and passages. Folks have used gun cleaning rods for that work, but it takes a long time. There are lots of nooks and crannies inside the engine block and that makes it very difficult to be absolutely sure there are no bits of glass bead left inside the block. That's why I never bead blast an engine block.
brooks its a very detailed video many thanks for taking the trouble to post this- i would like to know on the heads of the r100 did you paint the top surface or had it power coated- ?
Rahul, Thank you for your kind words. I painted the valve covers using brake caliper paint. After 24 hours drying, I baked them in the oven at 200 F for 30 minutes to harden the paint.
Can the gear shift lever be drilled out for a needle bearing? Another nice Video!! Thank you.
Hi Alan, I have no idea as I don't know if the needle bearing is larger or smaller than the hole for the bushing. I did the beer can fix on my '77 RS build back in 2016-17 and with just about 10,000 miles on it, the foot shift lever is still solid.
Great video Brook! I liked the tip about fishing a dropped bolt out of the swing arm (those insights are valuable for rookies).
Question: why couldn’t you leave the transmission in gear (I’d say 4th or 5th) and then just rotate the output shaft assist in lining up the input spline with the clutch hub?
Hi Peter, It's very easy to turn the transmission input shaft just a small amount to align with the clutch. My fingers are long enough to reach the input shaft to make the adjustment. And, I can look at the clutch and input shaft from the front of the transmission while I balance it. That would not be as easy reaching around to turn the output shaft. And it would be much harder to turn since I would be spinning all three shafts in the transmission.
Your video is well made enjoy it very much l love it ，it is helping me alot thank you ，l got a 72 -R75/5 4 speed with kicker l love it， would be to have 5 speed on it .possible to conver it to 5 speed？
Ken, the /6 5-speedwill bolt on to the /5 engine block.
I installed a 76 5 speed on my 71 R75/5, amazingly it fits fine, clutch throw out bearing assy different though
✅
You must have an engineering background
Hi jbhallowell, guilty as charged :-) But, I also ended up in sales, marketing, finance, mergers & acquisitions and ran my own small company for a couple years. In short, I'm not sure what I want to be when I grow up. :-)
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