It would really be great if you could demonstrate how to configure a neutral setting after replacing a bent steering column and bent tie rods. It's great to know about POS/NEG camber and the like but what about neutral?
That’s interesting about not needing to have the kart level to start with when using Snipers. We always had to have a level flat bed when setting up Formula Fords with ride heights and corner weight to adjust too so when doing alignment etc on the karts, I have kept the kart level just out of habit I guess! Great video.
for corner weight I would agree that the level surface would be needed, but it seems that snipers work fine level or on the drink. thanks for the positive feedback
Thanks for the videos. Very informative as always. Question, I have an older set of snipers that slide onto the stub axle. I only ever slide them on so the are on the outer end of the stub axle. I imagine this magnifies the measurements I’m setting. Should I be pushing them right up closer to the king pin?
i have tried both. the only problem would be if your stub axle had a bend in them. Maybe just slide the sniper into maybe, 10mm spacer off the base of the stub. that way you mitigate any potential error in the stub and avoid any misalignment from the sniper riding up on the fillet of the stub where it meets the boss/body of the stub axle.
Does measuring the sweep still work the same if the steering is offset (2cm to the left). Should I measure from in line with the steering column, or in the centre of the kart?
Hi, regarding to toe the sniper manual states that: " Each horizontal line (the camber plane) on the grid is equal to 2mm camber per side. Similarly, each vertical line (the toe plane) is equal to 2mm toe per side. A movement of one full grid on the toe plane each side of the kart would equate to “4mm toe”." So the base setup you are running is 4 mm total toe out on tony kart?
Hey Thierry, we did move the toe and camber in this weeks video using the angle aluminium and that would suggest that each line (or box) is equal to only 1mm. But either way, it is not important the 'millimetre' value, what is important is fast lap time and an awesome feeling kart. so if your snipers are on the first or second line Pos camber and that is where you win all your racers, lets just leave them there and go out and dominate
many thanks for the great video - would you be able to review the new Righetti Ridolfi Laser Wheel Alignment tool, which appears very similar to the Sniper?
As always, great video! How about static and dynamic camber alignment? I mean if gokart is on the trolley there is different measurements on laser than if gokart is on the ground - what is correct behavior - I must measure camber only on trolley and measurements on the ground doesn't matter? Especially in old, highly used chassis which is too flexible, the difference between static and dynamic camber probably be higher 🤔
Great point and I think if you did that once as a reference so you could compensate for it in your camber adjustments. I personally do all our adjustments on the kart stand. Not saying that is the only way, just what I like to do. Mostly camber changes are in response to the driver/kart requirements and all I have to do is slap on the snipers, see where the current camber is at and then move in the direction to improve the chassis handling. So simple compared to the ol days before this amazing tool
Power Republic Yeah, thank you for answer. So as I understand, on new chassis (or lightweight driver) camber range is for example +1 to -2 deg (depends on tyres wear) but in old chassis (or overweight driver) range should be closer to positive, ex +2 to -1, right? Ofc this values ^ on trolley/stand.
@@KKarczmarczyk it always changes with weight its all about driver feel aslong as the alingnment is the same left to right ands chassis straight ..u cant save tyres ether to be fast .. but being fast usaully means your good on tyre if you get me ..with just a straight up and down wheel alignment is never gonna get you anywhere.. . usaully the natural chassis castor pushs the toe in to positive toe with weight of driver.. at end of the day the driver has to feel the change's he's the key .. but if u have never played alingnment u should test because the good guy know where to go with it and know what the kart wants.. not testing and trying new things will lead u to know where..
Hi, thanks for all your videos! Could you do one about air filter maintenance? Describing all different types etc.? I got an old one on a 100cc without any internal sponge element, is it ok? Am I risking debris getting inside the engine? The plastic airbox has the 2 holes in the upper part, but you never know...
Hi I'm assuming you have the old yamaha 100 j or s filter. you can also buy the foam insert for the filter and I would also buy some oil filter oil. Put a "small" quantity of oil onto the foam insert at first and place in a plastic bag and squeeze the insert to make sure the oil is penetrating the foam. Then add a bit more oil filter oil to make sure it whas penetrated Try not to saturate the foam insert because that could impede the air intake. This should last you for a while unless you crash into the dirt, then you will have to repeat the process again. To clean the foam oil filter you can buy a liquid cleaner or use detergent but don't use petroleum based cleaners because that can melt the glue to the sealing ring that attaches to the foam insert.. Hope this helps.
@@kartbroertjes yeah that's what I would do. same as if you had been on the track and wanted to recheck you camber, you have to put the snipers on and re zero the bubble.
Thanks for the great videos! As far as I know, all measurements are done on the trolley. However, if I put the kart down on the floor and the driver in, the camber changes roughly 4 mm to the negative side. So, in order to have let's say 2 mm negative camber on the track, I'd need to adjust the camber to +2 mm while the kart is on the trolley. I am doing anything wrong here or is my frame just old and too flexible?
Hey Rene, no you and the kart are fine. It is true, the chassis will 'bump' about 4 mm when the driver is in it. but the trolley setting are relative, so set it as you please for ultimate lap times, not the dynamic or actual measurement when driver is in the kart. so if you drive the kart and need more Neg, add more Neg in relation to where it is currently set. If you drive the kart and need more Pos, add it in relation to where you currently have it set. hope that helps
@@PowerRepublic Hi Derek, thanks for quick reply and yes, it helps. I was asking because I could not find any video or other information touching this issue. The problem for me to solve is that it is actually quite difficult to get the correct feedback from the drivers (my sons :-) ). For me at least. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
It would really be great if you could demonstrate how to configure a neutral setting after replacing a bent steering column and bent tie rods. It's great to know about POS/NEG camber and the like but what about neutral?
Thanks for the idea!
That’s interesting about not needing to have the kart level to start with when using Snipers. We always had to have a level flat bed when setting up Formula Fords with ride heights and corner weight to adjust too so when doing alignment etc on the karts, I have kept the kart level just out of habit I guess! Great video.
for corner weight I would agree that the level surface would be needed, but it seems that snipers work fine level or on the drink. thanks for the positive feedback
Thanks as always 🙏
👍
what's the "cheapest" way to lock the steering wheel in place for the laser alignment ?
probably vice grips
@@PowerRepublic good idea ! Thanks
Another fantastic video. I have just a question but I need to send you a picture to better explain. How can I do that? Appreciate your help man :)
Hey Franco. You can click through our website with an email attachment
Thanks for the videos. Very informative as always. Question, I have an older set of snipers that slide onto the stub axle. I only ever slide them on so the are on the outer end of the stub axle. I imagine this magnifies the measurements I’m setting. Should I be pushing them right up closer to the king pin?
i have tried both. the only problem would be if your stub axle had a bend in them. Maybe just slide the sniper into maybe, 10mm spacer off the base of the stub. that way you mitigate any potential error in the stub and avoid any misalignment from the sniper riding up on the fillet of the stub where it meets the boss/body of the stub axle.
Good and helpfull video! Thanks
thanks man, good luck when you get back on the track
Does measuring the sweep still work the same if the steering is offset (2cm to the left). Should I measure from in line with the steering column, or in the centre of the kart?
Hi, regarding to toe the sniper manual states that:
" Each horizontal line (the camber plane) on the grid is equal to 2mm camber per side. Similarly, each vertical line (the toe plane) is equal to 2mm toe per side. A movement of one full grid on the toe plane each side of the kart would equate to “4mm toe”."
So the base setup you are running is 4 mm total toe out on tony kart?
Hey Thierry, we did move the toe and camber in this weeks video using the angle aluminium and that would suggest that each line (or box) is equal to only 1mm. But either way, it is not important the 'millimetre' value, what is important is fast lap time and an awesome feeling kart. so if your snipers are on the first or second line Pos camber and that is where you win all your racers, lets just leave them there and go out and dominate
many thanks for the great video - would you be able to review the new Righetti Ridolfi Laser Wheel Alignment tool, which appears very similar to the Sniper?
Great suggestion! ill have to get one first.
As always, great video! How about static and dynamic camber alignment? I mean if gokart is on the trolley there is different measurements on laser than if gokart is on the ground - what is correct behavior - I must measure camber only on trolley and measurements on the ground doesn't matter? Especially in old, highly used chassis which is too flexible, the difference between static and dynamic camber probably be higher 🤔
Or even if driver is overweight, camber angle changes much more if you put gokart on the ground and sit on it
Great point and I think if you did that once as a reference so you could compensate for it in your camber adjustments. I personally do all our adjustments on the kart stand. Not saying that is the only way, just what I like to do. Mostly camber changes are in response to the driver/kart requirements and all I have to do is slap on the snipers, see where the current camber is at and then move in the direction to improve the chassis handling. So simple compared to the ol days before this amazing tool
Yes that is correct, a bigger driver on an older frame should 'bump' the wheel alignment more.
Power Republic Yeah, thank you for answer. So as I understand, on new chassis (or lightweight driver) camber range is for example +1 to -2 deg (depends on tyres wear) but in old chassis (or overweight driver) range should be closer to positive, ex +2 to -1, right? Ofc this values ^ on trolley/stand.
@@KKarczmarczyk it always changes with weight its all about driver feel aslong as the alingnment is the same left to right ands chassis straight ..u cant save tyres ether to be fast .. but being fast usaully means your good on tyre if you get me ..with just a straight up and down wheel alignment is never gonna get you anywhere.. . usaully the natural chassis castor pushs the toe in to positive toe with weight of driver.. at end of the day the driver has to feel the change's he's the key .. but if u have never played alingnment u should test because the good guy know where to go with it and know what the kart wants.. not testing and trying new things will lead u to know where..
Are your reference point settings for when the kart is on the ground with driver in it or on the stand? Thanks
they do move with the driver in it. but I just use them on the Stand and go from there. easy as
Hi, thanks for all your videos! Could you do one about air filter maintenance? Describing all different types etc.? I got an old one on a 100cc without any internal sponge element, is it ok? Am I risking debris getting inside the engine? The plastic airbox has the 2 holes in the upper part, but you never know...
Great suggestion, you can fit an new style air filter to your existing airbox if you wanted.
Hi I'm assuming you have the old yamaha 100 j or s filter.
you can also buy the foam insert for the filter and I would also buy some oil filter oil.
Put a "small" quantity of oil onto the foam insert at first and place in a plastic bag and squeeze the insert to make sure the oil is penetrating the foam.
Then add a bit more oil filter oil to make sure it whas penetrated
Try not to saturate the foam insert because that could impede the air intake.
This should last you for a while unless you crash into the dirt, then you will have to repeat the process again.
To clean the foam oil filter you can buy a liquid cleaner or use detergent but don't use petroleum based cleaners because that can melt the glue to the sealing ring that attaches to the foam insert..
Hope this helps.
@@Zuludarkthirty thanks for that great explanation
No problems Derek
Hey Derek, thanks for another great video. But can you discuss caster a bit in the next chapter?
Hey Jase, thanks mate, sure can. we have covered it a bit in our castor/camber video th-cam.com/video/v9ktPuKKpus/w-d-xo.html
When changing settings, do you re-zero the bubble or not?
yeah I re zero it if it moves out. then start the process over, and then double check it again.
@@PowerRepublic to be sure we are on the same page. Let's say I change the camber and the bubble moves you rezero the bubble, correct?
@@kartbroertjes yeah that's what I would do. same as if you had been on the track and wanted to recheck you camber, you have to put the snipers on and re zero the bubble.
Hi, this will also fit and work with OTK cadet kart?
sure will my friend, just have to take the wheel hubs off on the new short 2020 EV stubs
Will the sniper laser work on a dirt chassis?
yeah they should work fine. might have to take the wheels of the stubs first
Thanks for the great videos! As far as I know, all measurements are done on the trolley. However, if I put the kart down on the floor and the driver in, the camber changes roughly 4 mm to the negative side. So, in order to have let's say 2 mm negative camber on the track, I'd need to adjust the camber to +2 mm while the kart is on the trolley. I am doing anything wrong here or is my frame just old and too flexible?
Hey Rene, no you and the kart are fine. It is true, the chassis will 'bump' about 4 mm when the driver is in it. but the trolley setting are relative, so set it as you please for ultimate lap times, not the dynamic or actual measurement when driver is in the kart.
so if you drive the kart and need more Neg, add more Neg in relation to where it is currently set. If you drive the kart and need more Pos, add it in relation to where you currently have it set. hope that helps
@@PowerRepublic Hi Derek, thanks for quick reply and yes, it helps. I was asking because I could not find any video or other information touching this issue. The problem for me to solve is that it is actually quite difficult to get the correct feedback from the drivers (my sons :-) ). For me at least. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Cool
Aqui é quase 5 mil isso aí
Interesting the kart didnt need to be level for them to work.
yeah I know, I haven't tried that one before, I just always tried to keep the kart flat across the front of the kart.