Hi, a nice video. I agree completely with replacing all the electrolytics, however, for the cost difference I would always go for the highest grade cap I can find regardless of where it is in the circuit. Power circuits matter too, as the DC power is what pushes up the voltage and current on the amplifier to drive the speakers. The cleaner the power, the less noise is introduced into the signal. In order, I go for Elna Silmic II, then Nichicon KG, KA, FG and finally Panasonic FC. A couple of other points. I note you didn’t mention a dim bulb tester for powering up. On unknown vintage gear I wouldn’t switch on without it. Also, your soldering iron bit is very fine. I used to use a fine bit until I saw someone using a flat tip to great effect. It transferred the heat to the job faster meaning you get a good joint without overheating the component via its leg. Anyway, I enjoyed watching this. I’ve done many amps over the years and I currently have a very badly damaged Musical Fidelity Elektra E1. I’ll do a few other mods too but I know it’s going to sound great in the end. Keep on recycling, it’s good for the planet and good for the soul 😂
Thanks for watching. I have used audio-grade caps in the past for certain gear, but I find that the cost-to-performance-ratio isn't really worth it in the end. I will use an audio-grade cap in the audio path, but for general filtering, a low-impedance cap is all that is necessary. When replacing output transistors, I always use my dim bulb tester.
👍👍😎✌️🤟Please, Sir, repair my vintage NAD circa 1982 electronics. Harmon-Kardon T60C turntable. People like you are so hard to find these days. Bowling Green,KY not easy to find people like you. Keep up the awesome work
Interesting. And your testing confirms what i found on my nads. Caps still good. That one flat green cap on you tuner board is probably the supercap for your station preset memory. Looks like the original. Replace it and the tuner will hold presets for 3 weeks. Usually 0.047 uF. By the blue search switch.
I own a NAD 7020e and only replaced the power supply capacitors because their value had decreased. Indeed "recapping" is a controversial topic. I prefer to measure the ESR value of the capacitors and their value and then decide whether to replace them. Yes, of course they all deteriorate over the years but I take the position that if it ain't broke don't fix it. The degree of deterioration also depends on the position of the capacitor in the circuit and also whether it is next to a component that gets hot and it also depends on the capacitance and voltage of the capacitor. The blind replacement of capacitors originated from the bad capacitor plague of the years 1999 to 2007. Unfortunately this replacement wave has become a hype among HiFi repairers. [EDIT] Still, nice work to salvage this beautiful old receiver.
Elite Caps are actually not bad, i used it in my Pioneer SA7800 recap project, and they doesnt go away, and theyre also not too expensive and they can do the job well, unlike Samwha or something like it. I dont like samwha due its not too good, and they go away quick, they have pretty low life expectancy. Im using Elite caps for a year at this point in my unit and they are still good! And people say that if you dont buy a well known cap, youre buying a bad product, its not bad, at least not always, if you can get an Elite, im pretty sure it will be good, I used it for a year, my amplifier still sounds as good as when i recapped, so its good (I didnt do the main filter since 4x 8000uf caps have measured 7000-7100uf and very low esr, so its good.) Audiophiles will gonna hate me but yeah, i just worked for a 3euro/hour job at a 3rd world country, most of the cases, i cannot afford those more expensive caps, and if i can, its just not available there.
I took my NAD 7400 receiver for repair and the guy is having a hard time finding the correct transistors/capacitors to complete the work. Can anyone suggest a good place to get those parts?
I have an NAD 7220pe that has a 120Hz lie level hum that is constant and independent of any cables, source, controls, or settings. It's just constant. I can drown it out by increasing the volume but I'd like to eliminate it. I have been advised to replace the power supply electrolytic filter capacitors. To start there. They are Teapos rated at 4700uF 50V. I've never recapped. I'm willing to try. Am I on the right track? Any other ideas why the hum? There's no outside interferences either.
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Hi, a nice video.
I agree completely with replacing all the electrolytics, however, for the cost difference I would always go for the highest grade cap I can find regardless of where it is in the circuit. Power circuits matter too, as the DC power is what pushes up the voltage and current on the amplifier to drive the speakers. The cleaner the power, the less noise is introduced into the signal.
In order, I go for Elna Silmic II, then Nichicon KG, KA, FG and finally Panasonic FC.
A couple of other points. I note you didn’t mention a dim bulb tester for powering up. On unknown vintage gear I wouldn’t switch on without it.
Also, your soldering iron bit is very fine. I used to use a fine bit until I saw someone using a flat tip to great effect. It transferred the heat to the job faster meaning you get a good joint without overheating the component via its leg.
Anyway, I enjoyed watching this. I’ve done many amps over the years and I currently have a very badly damaged Musical Fidelity Elektra E1. I’ll do a few other mods too but I know it’s going to sound great in the end.
Keep on recycling, it’s good for the planet and good for the soul 😂
Thanks for watching. I have used audio-grade caps in the past for certain gear, but I find that the cost-to-performance-ratio isn't really worth it in the end. I will use an audio-grade cap in the audio path, but for general filtering, a low-impedance cap is all that is necessary. When replacing output transistors, I always use my dim bulb tester.
Very nice work! I found one of these in the basement today and will hand it over to someone capable of servicing it.
👍👍😎✌️🤟Please, Sir, repair my vintage NAD circa 1982 electronics. Harmon-Kardon T60C turntable. People like you are so hard to find these days. Bowling Green,KY not easy to find people like you. Keep up the awesome work
It won't be worth the risk or cost of shipping. Turntables get mangled when shipped.
Interesting. And your testing confirms what i found on my nads. Caps still good. That one flat green cap on you tuner board is probably the supercap for your station preset memory. Looks like the original. Replace it and the tuner will hold presets for 3 weeks. Usually 0.047 uF. By the blue search switch.
I own a NAD 7020e and only replaced the power supply capacitors because their value had decreased. Indeed "recapping" is a controversial topic. I prefer to measure the ESR value of the capacitors and their value and then decide whether to replace them. Yes, of course they all deteriorate over the years but I take the position that if it ain't broke don't fix it. The degree of deterioration also depends on the position of the capacitor in the circuit and also whether it is next to a component that gets hot and it also depends on the capacitance and voltage of the capacitor. The blind replacement of capacitors originated from the bad capacitor plague of the years 1999 to 2007. Unfortunately this replacement wave has become a hype among HiFi repairers.
[EDIT] Still, nice work to salvage this beautiful old receiver.
Elite Caps are actually not bad, i used it in my Pioneer SA7800 recap project, and they doesnt go away, and theyre also not too expensive and they can do the job well, unlike Samwha or something like it. I dont like samwha due its not too good, and they go away quick, they have pretty low life expectancy.
Im using Elite caps for a year at this point in my unit and they are still good!
And people say that if you dont buy a well known cap, youre buying a bad product, its not bad, at least not always, if you can get an Elite, im pretty sure it will be good, I used it for a year, my amplifier still sounds as good as when i recapped, so its good (I didnt do the main filter since 4x 8000uf caps have measured 7000-7100uf and very low esr, so its good.)
Audiophiles will gonna hate me but yeah, i just worked for a 3euro/hour job at a 3rd world country, most of the cases, i cannot afford those more expensive caps, and if i can, its just not available there.
Hi, love your vids, learning a lot. Can u give tip to newbie how to find the audio path when looking at schematic? Thx!
I took my NAD 7400 receiver for repair and the guy is having a hard time finding the correct transistors/capacitors to complete the work. Can anyone suggest a good place to get those parts?
I have an NAD 7220pe that has a 120Hz lie level hum that is constant and independent of any cables, source, controls, or settings. It's just constant.
I can drown it out by increasing the volume but I'd like to eliminate it.
I have been advised to replace the power supply electrolytic filter capacitors. To start there. They are Teapos rated at 4700uF 50V.
I've never recapped. I'm willing to try.
Am I on the right track?
Any other ideas why the hum? There's no outside interferences either.
what brand is your tester and how high a capacitance will it measure
not sure of the brand, bought on aliexpress. I've never measured higher than 19,000uf.
Solder. Not sodder
In North America, the "L" is silent. Have you nothing better to do?
Come ooon!!! Use a suitable soldering tip. This is toe cringing 😢
I really like working with a thin tip.