We make a one person brake bleeder wrench kit that I use alone on our track car all the time, we'll add it to the next care package we send! Also, maybe a 9477 ratcheting crimper for electrical stuff?
AstroTools Very cool that you support SK8215 by providing him with your tools! Maybe you can answer a question I have. He riveted same Aluminium panels to the frame. How much will that effect the strength/rigidity of the frame? Tia.
Have some of your tool and I love them. Great decently priced tools. Especially the flashlight :-) It is very cool to see that you support such talents as SK8215.
Just open that valve and blow it out with compressed air going in thru spark plug hole. If there was any damage it's already done... when you see that the piece is out just do a compression test and you're good to go.
Still might need to lap the valve though. Even if it's a blob of aluminum from the intake manifold that he made, that aluminum could leave a smear of metal on the lip and cause an improper seal
like wes watson says: there can be no personal growth without ADVERSITY! the challenges you overcome with this project will only make it more meaningful and satisfying, to yourself and us too. this build (and channel in general) is so inspiring and i've learned so much already, even though i know basically nothing. thanks
if this dude doesnt get a job at NASA after finishing this project that will be consider the bigger NASA's failed... but if he gets a job at any F1 RACING TEAMS that will be consider HIS bigger life time fail...he cant no longer be employed by any team..he should owned that team! just saying...he is the most skilled technician i ever seen...he welds,aligns,does electric work,mechanical work,body work...i mean this dude is a PRO bro what else does it needs to become a full tech at any high level automaker factory? i have never hear of any tech like him my respects to his knowledge and hard work.
You have such mad skills. Been binge-watching this series for two days and you keep flooring me with another area and depth of knowledge. Simply inspiring.
Keep taking us through the highs and lows of your process this is amazing to watch. I've never seen or heard of anyone else doing such a project! You got so far!!
You're an absolute madman, this testing setup is so cost and time effective, it puts every testing facility to shame! Hats off for the amount of thinking that goes into your videos
Strange that it didn't start either way (Trigger angle off perhaps? or not enough spark since the plugs were getting wet), even with 1 cylinder down it should still have started. Glad that it didn't though because that piece of metal would have been more of a hassle if it had started. I say pull the piece out and do another comp test, you have nothing to lose by doing that first. If that resolves the issue then you've saved yourself a ton of work, if it doesn't then at least you know you tried and it should only take you a few minutes in any case.
Hey SK8215, the M113 you're using has two spark plugs per cylinder that are ignited with a little time shift to yield a smoother but faster combustion (especially when running lean mixture). The sequence of both spark plugs is changed every combustion cycle of the cylinder to even out thermal stress of the pistons. Igniting both plugs the same time may cause some disadvantages. You probably know that, but anyway, better safe than sorry :-). Most of all: What a tremendous project. Keep up the good work!!
I'm afraid that there are more problems than just the one cylinder with bad compression. The engine should definitely have startet on 7 cylinders, if there was everything right on the electrical side.
This project gets better and better! I'll try to vacuum that cylinder and turn the engine by hand. Then check compression... Don't get disappointed! This are the best parts of a project!
You can make a remote clutch bleeder line so you don't have to go under the car. You can use hard line or steel braid you can even buy them premade. Some even have a speed bleeder fitting. Last video I said the coolant hose would blow off your pipe because there is no bead. So even though that is not what happened you should still bead the end of your pipes or at least weld tacks so the clamps don;t slip off, I would ditch that radiator it doesn't make sense the hose is one piece. Also for the harness when you are cleaning it up you can make a subharness instead of going straight to aem if you think the wires are too thick etc it will make things easier. Anyway keep up awesome work.
Don’t lose momentum on this small hurdle! Sounds like the ignition time was 360 degrees off. It should still run on 7 cylinders so maybe this gremlin was a sneaky blessing in disguise. Love your videos, keep up the great work.
Gutted for you, man. But all I can say is you still are the most interesting builder on line today. You have mad skills in so many areas. Keep moving forward, don’t be discouraged by this small setback.
Gutted for you man. I once rebuilt an E39 M5 engine and had valves stick open on first start and destroy everything. Took an additional 3 months and $4,000 to get another engine and rebuild it again. In the end, completely worth it. Do it properly, remove the head, the valve seat will almost definitely need to be recut. If it’s steel you may need to replace the valve. Just do it all now and avoid having it in the back of your head in the future.
Buy a camera to look inside the cilinder Look if there is more metal in it so yes then try a magnet or just blow compresed air in it You already try’d to start is so it Maybe os already a fuckup but i personally think is no big deal
A borescope would be handy to check for damage without taking off the head. You could use a valve spring compressor to open the valve while putting compressed air thru the spark plug hole if the valve is not damaged. You don't want to take it all apart if you don't need to. There is another problem that you're not confronting yet. It should just fire up and run if the ignition is being controlled correctly, even if you just added a small amount of fuel into the intake.
I was wiring up a haltech for a friend and the ecu ground wasn't connected when I supplied positive power to the ecu and my god all the coils were arcing continuously from the leads that were on the cam covers it was an awesome sight! Thankfully no damage was done but I will always ground an ECU before connecting ther positive power now...
Suggestion: With all the valves closed on that cylinder take out the spark plug... LOCK the CRANKSHAFT SO THAT IT CAN NOT TURN ... pressurize the cylinder with compressed air.. open the valve bij hand and the piece of metal should blow out (warning piston will want to move and fast if compression is restored).. check that the cylinder is claen and that the walls are not damaged with endoscope and the piston at the bottom of its stroke.. redo a compression test.. i would only take the head off if there is no option (but piece of mind will probably play a part of that decision) Fantastic videos, and brilliant insight, thank you so very much for your effort. May the petrol gods light your path to victory.
The M113 engine uses two spark plugs, so if he removed both of them and blows through one with high pressure air, there's a good chance he can blow something out
There is a Brazilian company that make some sick Standalone ECU's with integrated dash. They even support full on active traction control. You should check the Power FT series from FuelTech. Their FT600 ECU is a beast made for racing, even being waterproof
@@foxxyytofficial FuelTech has made their name on the US already. The products are great, worth the money and faaaaaast. A lot of fast cars are using their tech and they are very supportive with customer. I'm getting one for my project car soon
I'd be pulling the head just to be safe pal. One little chunk lifting the valve on #6 shouldn't be an issue, but if that valves already pounded the debris, you could still have shavings sitting on the compression rings. If it were a daily driver, I'd say just blow it out, seeing as it's track bound though, do a thorough inspection. Check your timing as well, a single lifted valve on a v8 shouldn't be enough to cause a no start and the backfiring and popping suggests, to me at least, you may have an issue with base timing or an issue with the trigger signals being sent to the AEM and how the ECU interprets them. Got my fingers crossed for you, hope to see the engine running and happy soon, cheers.
Should still start with one dead hole, no? Open valve and blow out debris, check compression as other have said. Then figure out why your timing is off ~180*
Pro tip for bleeding a clutch slave cylinder: Fill the fluid, leave the cap off the reservoir, and push the slave cylinder in by hand and let it push itself back out. All the bubbles get pushed to the reservoir and you don't make mess opening the bleeder nipple. You know you're done when the slave cylinder has a stiff travel the whole way when you push it in.
I would use a bore scope to inspect cylinder #6 and get a better look at the valves. Digital bore scopes are fairly inexpensive nowadays and many are small enough to fit through a spark plug hole. Good luck with your project! Looks like you are actually on the home stretch.
Use a vacuum to suck out the debris. Not sure if you can compress the valve some, in case it's stuck in in the seat, hopefully, no damage to the seal. Someone mentioned the scope camera to look inside for any additional debris. Before tearing into the head, this may be worth a last resort solution.
Since you're clearly awesome at wiring and diagnostics, if you made a kit that could replace the 6-in-1 coil packs for all of the V12 amg's out there with a single coil per cylinder system, you would be many peoples best friend.
i had a similar issue a piece of aluminum fell into one of my injector holes (my fault) so after removing the intake manifold and attempts with a pick no luck i used a piece of gum and rotated the crank slowly the gamble worked iam sure a piece of tape would work as well , i was a gamble with the help of a borescope plugged to my phone. Also having 2 spark plug holes maybe blow air in one letting it come out the other, or compress blow some air threw one of the spark plug hole as you attempt to retract the metal jammed in between the valve.
I agree with the guys below, remove at least the heads and inspect the whole inner cylinders surface for shaving or scratches. Crank it manually top to bottom. Visual inspection will suffice. Clean well and check the valve that has the metal shaving stuck there, I don't think is bent because it takes the engine full force (engine on) to bend it, but since is a turbocharged engine, is better be safe than sorry !
The valve and the seat are quite likely damaged, but you could try using something magnetic, or sticky, or use surgeon-like precision and remove it with tweezers, then do a Cylinder Leak Down Test. Although, that might not show a possible spec of damage that could let the valve tear itself apart on the track. The safe thing to do is pull the head, inspect the valve and seat, and if there is no visible damage, Lap the valve and re-seat it when you go for the first drive
I would probably attach a small tube to the end of a vacuum cleaner and stick it in the port, with the vacuum cleaner going I would open the valve (either with a valve spring compressor or rotating the motor). after that I would remover the spark plug and repeat the process. (also cover up the other intake ports)
Blowing it out via the sparkplug entrance is a good idea ;) but in general id say its an extremely difficult project so getting the head off and doing it propably would be the best choice to minimise problems later (and its a bad idea starting to take shortcuts on this car :D)
To bleed brakes alone. Just put a tube from the open bleed nipple to a bottle of brake fluid, then you just press and release the brake pedal. The air gets pushed out and fluid is pulled in.
Definitely don't take the head off until you know it's necessary. The valve is probably not bent but the sealing surface might be damaged. Get the piece out and re-check compression before removing the head.
If it were a demolition derby engine, a gynecological fix would do just fine, but I think you would want a bit better overall performance out of it, so you'll need to pull out the head, do a valve check and at least a seating job. Usually, when there is one, there is more of those tiny buggers, and when they catch a turbo fin, the cost of quick fix suddenly jumps a few floors.
Speaking of sucking stuff into engines. You should get rid of those air filter and get turbo guards. Those air filters will collapse and suck into the turbo. That will really blow your motor up.
Awesome project. Every episode gets me inspired to design my own race car but what class of time attack racing would this be eligible for? Because even the rules for unlimited class in CSCS (Canadian Sport Compact Series) says that "All cars competing in “Unlimited” shall be based on production street cars. Full tube frame race cars are prohibited (i.e. Trans-am race car). Production tube frame vehicles are prohibited (i.e. Ariel Atom)." Would appreciate if you could clarify. Thanks.
Aw man, things happen I'm sure it'll be not badly damaged... I know one engineer who's going to always have the intake plugged up while working around it from now on :P
i had an engine with 4 zylinders and 1 had 5-6 out of 12-13 bar, but it was still running ok at least it startet und you could drive it so i would say, it should at least start and run with 7 zylinders, even if it would be a little ruf
Hey mate, love your work and vids. Aren't your front brake rotors backwards? Top vanes should vent backwards, not try to scoop air, according to certain oem Porsche and brembo literature
I'd just stick a boroscope in there after freeing up the piece of metal to inspect the cylinder for dabris, put some rope in the cylinder to hold the valve from falling in, remove the valve spring and lap it while the head is still on if it doesn't pass a leak down test, would be tedious but less work than pulling the head
Ohhh mannn you are from Pakistan MashAllah MashAllah make me proud to have such a talent want, want to make a kit car bro will be needing your help please.
Take both heads off and make sure there isnt metal in the other holes or the exhaust manifolds. You dont want that crap going through the turbos. Tape. Tape over ALL open holes in engines ALL the time.
1 bad cylinder shouldn't matter, the motor should still start. Most likely the ignition timing is off or in the wrong order, it really sounds like its in the wrong fire order
We make a one person brake bleeder wrench kit that I use alone on our track car all the time, we'll add it to the next care package we send! Also, maybe a 9477 ratcheting crimper for electrical stuff?
You guys are cool
AstroTools
Very cool that you support SK8215 by providing him with your tools!
Maybe you can answer a question I have. He riveted same Aluminium panels to the frame. How much will that effect the strength/rigidity of the frame? Tia.
Finally someone giving this guy some support. Astro, you guys are awesome.
Have some of your tool and I love them. Great decently priced tools. Especially the flashlight :-) It is very cool to see that you support such talents as SK8215.
@@Conservator. you're asking a technical question to the marketing team.
Just open that valve and blow it out with compressed air going in thru spark plug hole. If there was any damage it's already done... when you see that the piece is out just do a compression test and you're good to go.
Agreed. Maybe first connect the pressure, and then open the valve.
Still might need to lap the valve though. Even if it's a blob of aluminum from the intake manifold that he made, that aluminum could leave a smear of metal on the lip and cause an improper seal
like wes watson says: there can be no personal growth without ADVERSITY! the challenges you overcome with this project will only make it more meaningful and satisfying, to yourself and us too. this build (and channel in general) is so inspiring and i've learned so much already, even though i know basically nothing. thanks
if this dude doesnt get a job at NASA after finishing this project that will be consider the bigger NASA's failed...
but if he gets a job at any F1 RACING TEAMS that will be consider HIS bigger life time fail...he cant no longer be employed by any team..he should owned that team!
just saying...he is the most skilled technician i ever seen...he welds,aligns,does electric work,mechanical work,body work...i mean this dude is a PRO bro what else does it needs to become a full tech at any high level automaker factory? i have never hear of any tech like him my respects to his knowledge and hard work.
You have such mad skills. Been binge-watching this series for two days and you keep flooring me with another area and depth of knowledge. Simply inspiring.
Keep taking us through the highs and lows of your process this is amazing to watch. I've never seen or heard of anyone else doing such a project! You got so far!!
You're an absolute madman, this testing setup is so cost and time effective, it puts every testing facility to shame! Hats off for the amount of thinking that goes into your videos
take out spark plug blow air with compression tester hose and try to open valve by rotating crank ant than put more ai pressure to blow out that
Haha just said the same thing. Also used when drilling for a helicoil in the spark plug hole
Strange that it didn't start either way (Trigger angle off perhaps? or not enough spark since the plugs were getting wet), even with 1 cylinder down it should still have started. Glad that it didn't though because that piece of metal would have been more of a hassle if it had started. I say pull the piece out and do another comp test, you have nothing to lose by doing that first. If that resolves the issue then you've saved yourself a ton of work, if it doesn't then at least you know you tried and it should only take you a few minutes in any case.
I don't think it would have fired without vacuum in the manifold. Cold engines usually don't. Will give it another try soon
Really like this series man! keep TH-cam head up!!
Hey SK8215, the M113 you're using has two spark plugs per cylinder that are ignited with a little time shift to yield a smoother but faster combustion (especially when running lean mixture). The sequence of both spark plugs is changed every combustion cycle of the cylinder to even out thermal stress of the pistons. Igniting both plugs the same time may cause some disadvantages. You probably know that, but anyway, better safe than sorry :-).
Most of all: What a tremendous project. Keep up the good work!!
I'm afraid that there are more problems than just the one cylinder with bad compression. The engine should definitely have startet on 7 cylinders, if there was everything right on the electrical side.
I had the same thought.
Definitely. A questionable mosfet ignition solution
Definitely sounds like the firing order is on the piss..
@@wwooster4164 +1000
Dude. This. Is. Amazing. Like. All. Of. It!
Despite the setbacks its really coming together nicely. I bet it will be all the more rewarding now when she finally starts!
This project gets better and better! I'll try to vacuum that cylinder and turn the engine by hand. Then check compression... Don't get disappointed! This are the best parts of a project!
You can make a remote clutch bleeder line so you don't have to go under the car. You can use hard line or steel braid you can even buy them premade. Some even have a speed bleeder fitting. Last video I said the coolant hose would blow off your pipe because there is no bead. So even though that is not what happened you should still bead the end of your pipes or at least weld tacks so the clamps don;t slip off, I would ditch that radiator it doesn't make sense the hose is one piece. Also for the harness when you are cleaning it up you can make a subharness instead of going straight to aem if you think the wires are too thick etc it will make things easier. Anyway keep up awesome work.
My brain is fried after just watching this video, I cant imagine how you managed all that. Kudos.
Don’t lose momentum on this small hurdle!
Sounds like the ignition time was 360 degrees off. It should still run on 7 cylinders so maybe this gremlin was a sneaky blessing in disguise.
Love your videos, keep up the great work.
Gutted for you, man. But all I can say is you still are the most interesting builder on line today. You have mad skills in so many areas. Keep moving forward, don’t be discouraged by this small setback.
Maybe connect air compressor to one plug hole and then releasing the spring pressure allowing the piece to fly out. Then do leak down test
Super quality content, as always. Awesome job m8.
Gutted for you man. I once rebuilt an E39 M5 engine and had valves stick open on first start and destroy everything. Took an additional 3 months and $4,000 to get another engine and rebuild it again.
In the end, completely worth it. Do it properly, remove the head, the valve seat will almost definitely need to be recut. If it’s steel you may need to replace the valve. Just do it all now and avoid having it in the back of your head in the future.
Man!! If this is not the best channel on YT.
Buy a camera to look inside the cilinder
Look if there is more metal in it so yes then try a magnet or just blow compresed air in it
You already try’d to start is so it Maybe os already a fuckup but i personally think is no big deal
A borescope would be handy to check for damage without taking off the head. You could use a valve spring compressor to open the valve while putting compressed air thru the spark plug hole if the valve is not damaged. You don't want to take it all apart if you don't need to. There is another problem that you're not confronting yet. It should just fire up and run if the ignition is being controlled correctly, even if you just added a small amount of fuel into the intake.
Aluminium not magnetic.
I was wiring up a haltech for a friend and the ecu ground wasn't connected when I supplied positive power to the ecu and my god all the coils were arcing continuously from the leads that were on the cam covers it was an awesome sight! Thankfully no damage was done but I will always ground an ECU before connecting ther positive power now...
Suggestion: With all the valves closed on that cylinder take out the spark plug... LOCK the CRANKSHAFT SO THAT IT CAN NOT TURN ... pressurize the cylinder with compressed air.. open the valve bij hand and the piece of metal should blow out (warning piston will want to move and fast if compression is restored).. check that the cylinder is claen and that the walls are not damaged with endoscope and the piston at the bottom of its stroke.. redo a compression test.. i would only take the head off if there is no option (but piece of mind will probably play a part of that decision) Fantastic videos, and brilliant insight, thank you so very much for your effort. May the petrol gods light your path to victory.
The M113 engine uses two spark plugs, so if he removed both of them and blows through one with high pressure air, there's a good chance he can blow something out
@@Kamwi_003 That would indeed increase the chances of flushing the cylinder
Fantastic as usual. Hoping the valve and valveseat are not too badly damaged.
There is a Brazilian company that make some sick Standalone ECU's with integrated dash. They even support full on active traction control. You should check the Power FT series from FuelTech. Their FT600 ECU is a beast made for racing, even being waterproof
i won't lie
it feels good to know that someone created in Brazil is known outside of it
@@foxxyytofficial FuelTech has made their name on the US already. The products are great, worth the money and faaaaaast. A lot of fast cars are using their tech and they are very supportive with customer. I'm getting one for my project car soon
i want to build a project car as well here in Brazil
and probably one of the first things i will buy is one FuelTech ECU
I'd be pulling the head just to be safe pal. One little chunk lifting the valve on #6 shouldn't be an issue, but if that valves already pounded the debris, you could still have shavings sitting on the compression rings. If it were a daily driver, I'd say just blow it out, seeing as it's track bound though, do a thorough inspection. Check your timing as well, a single lifted valve on a v8 shouldn't be enough to cause a no start and the backfiring and popping suggests, to me at least, you may have an issue with base timing or an issue with the trigger signals being sent to the AEM and how the ECU interprets them. Got my fingers crossed for you, hope to see the engine running and happy soon, cheers.
An endoscope you can use with a phone costs not much and can easily be found on ebay, so you can look into the cilinder
Awesome work astro tools. Even I appreciate you helping out
Reverse pressure bleed the clutch. Pushing the fluid in from bleed nipple works excellent. There are a couple ways to do it.
Should still start with one dead hole, no? Open valve and blow out debris, check compression as other have said. Then figure out why your timing is off ~180*
Wow, I learned a lot of things I didn't even know about. Well done Astro tools.
Pro tip for bleeding a clutch slave cylinder:
Fill the fluid, leave the cap off the reservoir, and push the slave cylinder in by hand and let it push itself back out. All the bubbles get pushed to the reservoir and you don't make mess opening the bleeder nipple. You know you're done when the slave cylinder has a stiff travel the whole way when you push it in.
Dont get discouraged bruh. You are so close its insane. Keep plugging away, 1 thing at a time, next thing you know, you Finnished it.😉👍
I would try to fish it out, and then test compression again to determine if there was any damage. Don't take it apart if you don't have to.
I would use a bore scope to inspect cylinder #6 and get a better look at the valves. Digital bore scopes are fairly inexpensive nowadays and many are small enough to fit through a spark plug hole. Good luck with your project! Looks like you are actually on the home stretch.
Use a vacuum to suck out the debris. Not sure if you can compress the valve some, in case it's stuck in in the seat, hopefully, no damage to the seal. Someone mentioned the scope camera to look inside for any additional debris. Before tearing into the head, this may be worth a last resort solution.
Since you're clearly awesome at wiring and diagnostics, if you made a kit that could replace the 6-in-1 coil packs for all of the V12 amg's out there with a single coil per cylinder system, you would be many peoples best friend.
i had a similar issue a piece of aluminum fell into one of my injector holes (my fault) so after removing the intake manifold and attempts with a pick no luck i used a piece of gum and rotated the crank slowly the gamble worked iam sure a piece of tape would work as well , i was a gamble with the help of a borescope plugged to my phone.
Also having 2 spark plug holes maybe blow air in one letting it come out the other, or compress blow some air threw one of the spark plug hole as you attempt to retract the metal jammed in between the valve.
I agree with the guys below, remove at least the heads and inspect the whole inner cylinders surface for shaving or scratches. Crank it manually top to bottom. Visual inspection will suffice. Clean well and check the valve that has the metal shaving stuck there, I don't think is bent because it takes the engine full force (engine on) to bend it, but since is a turbocharged engine, is better be safe than sorry !
The valve and the seat are quite likely damaged, but you could try using something magnetic, or sticky, or use surgeon-like precision and remove it with tweezers, then do a Cylinder Leak Down Test. Although, that might not show a possible spec of damage that could let the valve tear itself apart on the track. The safe thing to do is pull the head, inspect the valve and seat, and if there is no visible damage, Lap the valve and re-seat it when you go for the first drive
I would probably attach a small tube to the end of a vacuum cleaner and stick it in the port, with the vacuum cleaner going I would open the valve (either with a valve spring compressor or rotating the motor). after that I would remover the spark plug and repeat the process. (also cover up the other intake ports)
Astro, you guys are awesome
open both valvers and use compressed air via the plug hole to blow the debris out, then rethry
Thanks for all the work. Hope the news is good, and I am looking forward to finding out.
Blowing it out via the sparkplug entrance is a good idea ;) but in general id say its an extremely difficult project so getting the head off and doing it propably would be the best choice to minimise problems later (and its a bad idea starting to take shortcuts on this car :D)
To bleed brakes alone. Just put a tube from the open bleed nipple to a bottle of brake fluid, then you just press and release the brake pedal. The air gets pushed out and fluid is pulled in.
Definitely don't take the head off until you know it's necessary. The valve is probably not bent but the sealing surface might be damaged. Get the piece out and re-check compression before removing the head.
What a bummer! I feel for you mate! But I love your sort it out and move on attitude
I feel your pain, brah! Killer build! Keep it up!!
Best of luck..... waiting to see that engine running
Good Luck! I was so disappointed for you but please persevere, I really enjoy your videos! :-)
Massive amounts of credit, man. Good job
You are doing an incredible job ! You are going to succeed !
Buy a cheap bore scope and put it in the plug hole.. You may be able to see if there is damage inside the cylinder ..
You could get that piece with some blue tac or gum on the end of a screw driver.
But is there more ?
Ηθελα να τα κραξω απο το πρωτο βιντεο, αλλα συγκρατηθηκα κ λεω μην γινω κυνικος....ΜΠΟΥΡΔΕΛΑΑΑΑΑ ΓΕΡΜΑΝΙΚΑ
Loving the "Lambourghini" style head removal :D
I would really use an aftermarket radiator. The stock one is going to end up cracking from vibration.
21 more days to go bro😄
That was AWESOME ! Love the video ! Good job ! I would go crazy to fumblin around with the wiring !!!!
If it were a demolition derby engine, a gynecological fix would do just fine, but I think you would want a bit better overall performance out of it, so you'll need to pull out the head, do a valve check and at least a seating job. Usually, when there is one, there is more of those tiny buggers, and when they catch a turbo fin, the cost of quick fix suddenly jumps a few floors.
Speaking of sucking stuff into engines. You should get rid of those air filter and get turbo guards. Those air filters will collapse and suck into the turbo. That will really blow your motor up.
Cuanto trabajo!! Cuanto conocimiento!! Eres increíble!
First!!
I was revving my left when you started cranking it...Boy was I desperate to that thing roar to life!!
Awesome project. Every episode gets me inspired to design my own race car but what class of time attack racing would this be eligible for? Because even the rules for unlimited class in CSCS (Canadian Sport Compact Series) says that "All cars competing in “Unlimited” shall be based on production street cars. Full tube frame race cars are prohibited (i.e. Trans-am race car). Production tube frame vehicles are prohibited (i.e. Ariel Atom)." Would appreciate if you could clarify. Thanks.
Please like this comment so he can see it. Thank you.
Love your attitude. I want a better race car. I I'll just build one using what I've got.
Love it mate
Aw man, things happen I'm sure it'll be not badly damaged... I know one engineer who's going to always have the intake plugged up while working around it from now on :P
i had an engine with 4 zylinders and 1 had 5-6 out of 12-13 bar, but it was still running ok
at least it startet und you could drive it
so i would say, it should at least start and run with 7 zylinders, even if it would be a little ruf
Hey mate, love your work and vids. Aren't your front brake rotors backwards? Top vanes should vent backwards, not try to scoop air, according to certain oem Porsche and brembo literature
I'd just stick a boroscope in there after freeing up the piece of metal to inspect the cylinder for dabris, put some rope in the cylinder to hold the valve from falling in, remove the valve spring and lap it while the head is still on if it doesn't pass a leak down test, would be tedious but less work than pulling the head
Thats so rough man hope theres no damage for you, maybe a magnet on a stick? Like 1 of the telescopic ones and try remove valve
Engine should start if there's problem in 1 particular cylinder, might be some other problem as well. Btw awesomene work
Good video as always 👍🏻👍🏻 keep it going
I have an aem infinity 30-7101 laying around and wanted to know if I would be able to use that Ecu instead of the 508
Ohhh mannn you are from Pakistan MashAllah MashAllah make me proud to have such a talent want, want to make a kit car bro will be needing your help please.
I'd remove the cylinder head and check the valve sitting. It's probably damaged
Compressed air into one of the spark plug ports and then open the valve?
Hi I have a clk63 engine I attempted to put it in to my boat any recommend ecu to make it work??
The little piece of metal stuck in the valve lip looks like a blob of aluminum, possibly from the intake manifold welds.
Now me and the Mad Scientist gotta tear that engine apart and replace those piston rings you fried
@@ma61king 🤣
You could just use foam inside the tank like fuel bladders use...
Take both heads off and make sure there isnt metal in the other holes or the exhaust manifolds. You dont want that crap going through the turbos. Tape. Tape over ALL open holes in engines ALL the time.
compressed air through the spark plug hole?
Use small bubble gum stick it in a stick and use it to get the metal fragments.
Put compressed air in trough the spark plug hole, and then open the valve. This should blow the metal piece out.
I wanna see it stop. Keep going you legend!
can this ecu be used for m112 engine
I've been looking for a new rivnut gun.
Might look at Astro.
Do I get a discount code??
Great videos everytime, keep it up
Awesome project. Keep it up dude! Also, are you in California?
Nah he's in Vancouver.
@@ekamvirk7599 Nah he's in Toronto.
This is next level stuff.
Go forward bro, good job 👍👍👍👍
Keep it going man love the videos
What's your trigger offset set to?
Project Binky has some serious competition!
Larger master cylinder pistons will shorten your travel but Increase effort.
1 bad cylinder shouldn't matter, the motor should still start. Most likely the ignition timing is off or in the wrong order, it really sounds like its in the wrong fire order
if steel maybe try strong magnet?