Just changed mine thanks to your video. It really was a pain getting the part out then in, had to take a step back to gather myself and eventually got it. Thx, keep up the good work.
Worked great. You need to jack the car take the wheel off then put it on a jack stand. Then place jack under the oil pan, take off the motor mount and then jack the engine up a few inches. That was a little unclear but the key is raising that engine. That frees up the thing. That bolt holding it on cant be taken off until you get the tensioner off no matter what you do. Thanks, very informative video, it worked for me and it wasn't a bunch of unnecessary garble. Right to the point in under five mins. I love it. Thanks.
Thanks for the great idea. We spent a solid 6 hours trying to get at it from the top, broke a ratchet and had the tensioner eventually break off. We'll try taking the wheel off and go at it from the side tomorrow.
You're video is excellent, best I've seen on any subject! Very clear and understandable and I don't need to hear you talk. You explain everything very clearly with the notes on screen. I also don't think doing an installation video is necessary because just doing everything in reverse is the obvious answer to how to install it. This is not an easy job so there will no doubt be some complications, but watching your video several times should clear up any issues that could arise. Thanks!!
Man, I’m glad I didn’t watch this video or read comments before I tried it. I just went ahead and removed/ installed the tensioner. That is, without raising the engine and other stuff. Guess I got lucky and had a shorter bolt?
Just replaced my tensioner using this video. Some tips/observations - While jacking up the engine, the car is going to move up a little too, as weight is lifted off the suspension. - I initially thought I'd jack up the engine high enough to get a socket on the upper bolt of the tensioner. I couldn't get the engine high enough without getting nervous about damaging the oil pan, so instead I jacked up the engine, used a serpentine belt tool with a 14mm 6-point socket to break loose the bolt, then a wrench to loosen all the way. I had the engine just barely high enough to get the bolt to clear the side of the engine bay, like in the video. - To get the new tensioner on, I recommend getting the tensioner pretty much in place, then try to slip the bolt in. Then place the bottom of the tensioner on the bottom bolt. Tighten the top bolt and bottom nut together (prevent any binding). - Maybe this is common knowledge, but when putting the serpentine belt back on, use one of the smooth pulleys to slip the belt on. I tried lining up the belt on all the pulleys except the alternator, then relieving tension and putting the belt over the alternator pulley. But the pulleys on the components (AC, alternator, etc) have a lip on the outside, making it tough to slip the belt on. Just slip the belt over on of the smooth pulleys, i.e. no lip to worry about
I definitely will. The more I think about it the more ticked I am that he didn't offer to replace it right then. I really don't know how he got the belt on, but I do know it took him much longer than it was supposed to (instead of 30 mins it took him about an hour and a half). Next time I'll check your videos and if I can do something myself, I will! Btw, Vegas rules!!! We go there at least once a year, it's awesome. No other city quite like it in the world for a good time.. Thanks again man!!!
good vid found on the 07 camrys if you drop the top nut on the drivers side lower engine mount along with everything else mentioned in the vid you can get that long ass bolt out alot easier 👍
Thank you! This video was very helpful to me and my buddy while working on a 2001 Toyota Rav4. Be patient. Go slow. Take breaks if you need to. Otherwise, you'll end up breaking stuff.
I'm going back to leave this comment on every belt tensioner video I can find… When we put on the new tensioner, we still couldn't move it by using the built-in bolt head…UNLESS the engine was lifted!! Then it was easy! I'm not telling you I know why... But, if you want to make your life easy, put the serpentine belt back on BEFORE you lower the engine!
Sure would have been nice to see how you reinstalled the tensioner. Followed your video in every aspect to remove the tensioner. Which by the way worked great. I never could position the new tensioner correctly to mount it. I mean I tried and tried many times. Finally I put the tire back on and had it towed to a repair shop to have the new tensioner and new belt installed. So if you could do a video on installing the belt tensioner once the old one is removed would be a great lesson for me.
+Rex Parrish I'm sorry you did not get the new tensioner in. It's very important to remember how you removed it because it will always go in the same way you removed it. I will try to do another video. Thank you for the comment.
I pulled mine off and would not go back on, seems that I had a 1 inch gap between bottom studd and shock. I've ordered another tensioner because I'm assuming this spring is broken, I can't think of another reason why the gap is so massive. I've had to remove this 5 times previously because of a bad power steering pump, then a bad rack and pinion a day later because the pump wasn't performing, Then a day later figured the pump we bought is bad so we have a new pump on order, again! Oh, and another time because we thought the power steering pump pressure switch was at fault, so now we're going back together for the 5th time and now the tensioner won't reach end to end?? BTW, second tensioner because the first one has a gouged leverage nut. What a piece of shit!!! Three weeks of shit!. My other car is a 1990 trofeo. I changed the water pump, harmonic balancer, ignition module and harness, serpentine belt all in 1 hour!! And never cussed! This car can go to hell as far as I'm concerned... but, because it's my son's car I'm working on it, maybe I'll learn something? Still waiting to see what that is?.
On 4-cylinder Highlander 2006, the long bolt can be taken out without lifting the engine. There is enough room between a fully extended bolt and the wall. Start with removing lower nut and then as upper bolt removal progresses, move tensioner along towards the wall. Once the bolt fully unscrewed, the tensioner will drop down. To install new tensioner, first secure long bolt with a masking tape, flash with the right wall of the tensioner. This will keep the bolt fixed in place as you navigate the tensioner assembly. Get it first aligned with the lower bolt and put a nut on, just a bit loose, to allow to wiggle the assy. Line-up the upper bolt to its intended position. Your are done after that. Put the belt back on.
This video was so helpful. Thanks for the trick of lifting engine and tilting bolt to get it out. I also discovered bad upper motor mount thanks to your advise!
I have an 04 Camry and what i did was take the tensioner out from the bottom, eliminating lifting the engine and it was sort of easy. The hardest part was taking out and putting back in that long screw. lol
Actually l had trouble placing it back into the car from the bottom, so I ended up doing it the way you did it by jacking up the engine and so forth. It was actually sort of easy that way and quicker. Funny how things work out sometimes. lol
Just picked up my 02 Camry from the shop with the belt tensioner installed. Here is what I was told, there is a lower motor mount to the side of the crank pulley. The bolt on top of the mount must be removed so that when you raise the engine, the engine actually raises to allow clearance to the bolt to clear when removing and installing the belt tensioner. While this is not a must for removing the tensioner, it is an absolute must when installing the tensioner.
+Rex Parrish I have done more than 50 of those belt tensioners and I do not need to remove the nut on the lower motor mount to raise the engine for more clearance. Why wouldn't the new tensioner go in the same way if you removed the old one. Maybe because you forgot how you removed it. That is why, you have to remember how you removed the old tensioner to get the new tensioner in without any trouble. I guess I have more patience than others.
+88BmyVegas Automotive i have the same problem. it is very easy to take it off, but i do not know how to put it in. My car is still on a jack stand and a jack.
All I can tell you is that perhaps, I'm didn't do my smartly. While I did pay close attention as to how I removed the belt tensioner, for the life of me, I could get it back to a position that I could mount it. I remounted the right front tire and had it towed to a shop. Here is what the shop machine told me. First me removed the nut on the engine mount that is to the side of the crank pulley and then he jacked up that side of the engine. He insisted that if you did do this and and jacked up the passenger side of the engine, via the oil pan with a floor jack and a piece of 2x4, all you were doing was raising the entire right side of the car. The author of the video, 88BmyVegas, insisted this was not necessary as he had done over 50 of these jobs. I asked him to do a video on how to install a belt tensioner once the old one was removed and he agreed to do so sometime in the future. The he went on to comment that you must pay particular attention on how you remove it so that you can go back in the same matter you removed it. I just didn't get this. In any event, the mount the mechanic insisted he had to remove the nut from is just the left of the Crank Pulley. If you opt to do this, please be certain you do not move the engine so high as to clear the mount. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, I would recommend remounting the front right wheel and have it towed to a shop.
+Rex Parrish i read your comment, and i did remove the two bolts of the lower engine mount close to crank pulley. However, it did nothing. Moreover, i saw the other engine mount looks ripped off. As a result, i lowered the engine a lot. i did put it on by taking apart the arm and pulley and installed them separately followed by tightening the bolt to connect the two parts.
Holy Cow! You mean that the engine did not move at all when placing a 2 x 4 block of wood on a floor jack and jacking up the right side of the engine via the oil pan?
I appreciate your prompt response. Like I said, your video was super and aided me immensely in removing the tensioner but going back in with the new one just didn't workout for me. I am still pondering what I failed to do. I keep asking myself what is it that I failed to do. I mean I jacked the passenger side of the engine well beyond 2" and was still unable to clear the side of the engine compartment to get the bolt started. I even considered grinding out a chunk of metal out of the side of the engine compartment to aid me but opted out for fear I would damage the AC line that runs along the engine compartment. In any event super video, just wished you would, once again do a video on installing the new tensioner once the old one is removed. Many thanks.
Hey I did this last night but I didn't put the wood under the pan til after I took off the dogbone mount. I was scared about crushing the pan. That upper bolt was in a bad spot. The car purrs now thanks for the help.
Thank you for these thorough instructions. However, I hit a snag the when the tensioner lug cracked off. Apply slow even pressure to lug with breaker bar. If not moving then the strut is seezed. I had to remove the Alt to relieve tension on belt. Then removed the tensioner assembly.
awsome vid! great format. SUBSCRIBE AND LIKE. (no incessant apologies, talking and no unnecessary/unrelated background stories about last months vacation to cabul)
I just replaced mine and it wasn't difficult at all. One thing that you don't mention is the need to remove the engine mount top nut, otherwise you'll be jacking up the whole car by the oil pan. Once the engine is up it's very easy to insert a small ratchet and loosen the tensioner bolt.
@@luiszelaya6299 oh ok, thank you for telling us your tip. it's greatly appreciated. i will put that on the video description. thank you for watching my videos. have a nice day.
Thank you so much... This video was so for damn helpful.... Been looking four a how to I got a 09 corolla pretty much the same gave me a great outlook...
Hi man~I changed tensioner ,water pump, thermostat and drive belt~!~!tensioner that last bolt~ u need unscrew under engine mount 1 bolt.and then life on oil fan~(dog born as well)if u do that its very easy to remove and install.
I swapped the upper engine mount screw with this one because it is shorter in length and can be removed directly with the belt tensioner without removing the screw first
Good video. I replaced only the pulley bearings. By removing the belt as shown, then using a 3/8" stubby t50 torx bit from Half Cut tools(it is only 1" long) and a 3/8" breaker bar the pulley bolt on the tensioner can be broken loose. Use the 3/8" size, there is not enough room for a 1/2" drive. Remove the pulley and replace the bearings(2 ea premium 6203 RS on eBay for $400 for a new tensioner.
I can't find the ebay seller are you referring to.... Approx how much is that stubby T50 too? Also, from pictures(I don't have the tensioner out yet), but it seems like one original bearing. Did you put 2 new ones to replace 1 old one? thanks.
Oh.. I see now at 0:45 that is what you are using to help push the tensioner down with to release the belt, correct? Do you know if that bolt head is broke off, will I be able to replace the belt again without having to replace the entire tensioner? I realize now this could be more serious than I was led to believe. Again thanks so much for any help!
For comparison folks, I had the tensioner seize and consequently had the 18/19mm head strip. I got part way into this and gave it up to the auto shop, it ran me $530.00. So take that into consideration. (new belt [~$50], new tensioner, +labor)
On my 2005 Camry I pulled the dog bone rt side motor mount, and little force you can push the engine to the left, away from you while pulling the bolt, I did and was fine
It is much easier to remove that long bolt by removing the transverse engine mount at the bottom and jacking the engine slightly higher above that cross member to get a much better clearance ! (nice tools by the way)
+7smr The transverse engine mount? Which one is that? There is a mount located at the bottom front of the engine and there is a mount at the bottom of the side of the engine, to the left of the crank pulley.
It might be "risky" but if its an older car and your mounts are really worn.. You can actually use a long bar to move the engine towards driver side fractions of an inch to clear wrench space or even change a pulley or to shim an ac compressor mag clutch
Not being able to install the new tensioner after removing the old one, is still bugging me! Do I somehow slide the new tensioner with the bolt in it? If so, how do I do this? I jacked up the engine so high on the passenger side via the oil pan, I was afraid I would brake the engine mount but luckily I didn't. Do I slide the tensioner into position without the bolt and then try to insert the bolt? I was actually thinking about cutting a chunk of metal out of the way just to aid in mounting the bolt. Any advice for next time? I had the car towed to a shop to have the new tensioner and new belt installed.
Great video need to emphasize ! Undoing bottom motor mount is just flashes on the screen with words and really emphasize putting even pressure on the 19 mm tension release bolt because I broke mine off!!!! I put too much pressure on it and broke the tension-er....
So how was the engine able to be jacked up when you still had the lower motor mount bolted up? I have seen a few comments saying the top bolt on the lower engine mount needs to be removed as well. I am working on a 2002 Camry as we speak and that is my opinion as well from looking at it. I'll post an update when I get done.
It worked for me, I ended up taking off the right motor mount and the motor mount bolt for the front and got enough clearance to take the bolt off. Thank you!
+datchulo1085 i finished the job this afternoon. I think you jack up the engine in order to take off the top engine mount. When the top engine mount is off, you will have more room to operate your wrenches. it is very easy to take it off, but it is ten times harder to put it back on.
if you do this on a camry 2007 and up you will need to take the right side motor mount off, if not the engine is gonna vine and you will start lifting the whole car up by the oil pan which is not a good idea lol.
Would it be possible, and furthermore; would it be wise to attempt to replace only the actual bearing and not the entire tensioner ? I.e. remove bearing and try to find one that matches or inspect for identifying attributes? Thanks in advance. Also, this would allow you to save time, knuckles, hands, money, and avoid having to remove the entire tensioner.
88bmyvegas, thanks for posting the helpful video. Unfortunately I just took my 04 Camry XLE to the shop to let them replace the serp belt and they accidentally broke off the casted bolt looking thing (which is at the top of the tensioner @ 4:22). They got the new belt on and acted like it was no big deal. They said the tensioner would still work fine, but after leaving I started getting suspicious about it. Do you know what that bolt head is for? Does it help remove the tensioner? Thanks again!
I don't know how they put on the new belt since the tech broke the casted bolt. so maybe they can only do it when you need something else replaced, like the alternator. but it's better to have it replaced now. they must have pryed on something and use leverage to get the belt out. by doing that, something else can break. just have them replace it before it becomes a bigger problem in the future. thank you
Thought this was the one to help me but I have a 98 4cyl 2.2L Eng. I can't get the tensioner for the belt to come off, the one that pivots with spring on one end, adjustment bolt that you tighten down in end when fully adjusted per specs then the pin the whole tensioner swivels on. The part where the swivel is where I'm having issues. Do I need to remove camshaft gear and remove rear cover to get it loose from the back side or how does it come out as right now it just rocks back and forth until I can get it out to put a water pump, timing belt kit. The water pump shelled out taking the pump housing out as well so that's another part I have. I'm ready for install as soon as I get the tensioner replacement figured out. Hopefully you can help me as I've searched exhaustively on how to do this. If it involves removing the camshaft gear and rear cover behind the camshaft then I'll be bummed as I could've did that and had the job done by now. Look forward to responses.....
+Fix It Angel Belt is off already. Got the part you mentioned about removing the belt and the center bolt removal and the spring removal done. I need to get that tensioner assembly to come off as at the point it pivots to the left of the big bolt is little pin that would be to the left if your looking at it from the passenger side of the vehicle. I have another problem as well now as I can't get the camshaft gear loose as the water pump is off along with the timing belt. I'm thinking if I remove the backing plate behind the camshaft gear I can get the tensioner pin to loosen from behind. Do you know if this will solve the problem I'm having or not? 98 Toy Camry 4 Cyl 2.2L Eng I have the Front and Rear engine mounts removed along with the passenger side one and I still can't get the engine high enough to remove the camshaft bolt with a electric impact once I figure out how to secure it. I actually have a subscription to Mitchell 1 DIY for all my vehicles as this gives me pictures and diagrams but this still has me stumped as I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere how to remove the tensioner from the backing plate. It's a different style than the one on your vehicle as they changed the tensioner setup in 2000 - 2001 or somewhere in there from my understanding as your's is way different than mine. I saw you have you're a tech at a dealer in your profile so I figured I'd ask you since Toyota seems your brand unless that employment status has changed and profile info is old?
It should come off since it is only a pin. You need to remove the valve cover and use a wrench to hold the camshaft and then remove the camshaft bolt. Do not use a impact gun, the bolt can snap of something can go wrong.
Why was the tensioner replaced? I have a sound coming from that area but I can't figure out what part is causing it. It sounds like a bad bearing. I was suspecting the alternator until I saw your video. Is there a way to find out which component has the bad bearing? I have a 2005 Camry with the 4-cylinder.
That's what I will do. The guys there are usually really cool and helpful, I think the mechanic may have just been afraid to tell his manager he broke it or something. He claimed the hydraulic piston that keeps the tension was stuck and the amount of force he had to put on it caused it to break. He was very nice about it, but never offered to replace the whole assembly. Btw, would it be possible to replace the belt with that broke? I already beat you to the subscribe, it's done! Thanks!!
Was the engine jacked up a couple of inches just to provide clearance so that the bolt from the tensioner can be pulled out? And was the dog bone mount removed just so you could jack the engine up? Thanks.
Yes the engine was jacked up a couple inches till the bolt had clearance to come off. And yes the doggone was removed too. Welcome. Please subscribe and have a nice day.
88bmyvegas Thanks. I've already subscribed. I have 2002 Camry. This was the only video (and Internet search result) that showed how to replace the Camry tensioner. Hope you will keep the videos coming.
***** So you jacked engine up without removing fasteners on the bottom motor mounts and transmission mount? And there was not too much stress (I'm mainly concerned about engine and transmission union) when you jacked up engine high enough for total bolt clearance? I'm about to change the tensioner on my 2002 Camry, but am a little concerned about how much I can jack engine up with the motor/transmission mounts still bolted on. Thanks for any reassuring comments about this.
***** Thanks. I should be receiving new tensioner and belt next week and will try to install following weekend. Maybe you removed top bolt on right front motor mount? I believe that would be under the belt and pulleys location. Anyway, I'll jack up slowly and see. But full clearance would be great--will have to look if I can even get a torque wrench on the long tensioner bolt without the full clearance.
Sunday, July 25, 2021 A question for anyone: The tensioner bolt on my 2004 Corolla snapped. The car has 107,000 miles. It was a real project to get the broken bolt out of the engine block, with trying different drill bits and using a right angle drill attachment. I finally got the remains of the broken bolt out last night, woo hoo! Is it worth using Permatex anti-seize compound for aluminum on the new bolt? It's a 3 hour trip by bus and bicycle to buy a bottle from Menard's Hardware Store. Thank you much.
hi mate I tried to serpentine belt off.. 19mm socket.. but it's too strong could not do it. what can I do ? pulled all the way but..belt won't come out..
GERRARD9292 I broke mine also and realized it was because of the angle I was pulling on the nut. I was not applying the pressure downward but toward the front of car.
Stuck! on the engine lifting step. I have the following removed: Torque Strut Mount, Bottom Engine Mount Bolt Nut (in the passenger wheel well) however when I jack up the engine the whole front end proceeds to lift (jack & wood block are only touching the oil pan) enough that the jack stand on the same side of the car becomes "free". I also tried removing an additional mount nut located in the front of the engine bay. This allowed the engine to rotate but still didn't lift up enough to reach the tensioner bolt. Any thoughts? When I imagined the engine lifting I would have thought the mounting bracket in the wheel well would have "slid" up the bolt with the engine however it looks like it never becomes free from the rubber portion below. Could this be frozen together preventing the engine from lifting up?
Stripped the hell out of the upper 14mm bolt that connects the tensioner to the block. CANNOT get at it (upper engine mount removed; engine mount bracket removed; alternator removed; water pump removed; lower strut on tensioner completely removed; no serpentine). Tried drowning in PB for days, tried blasting with heat. Tried drilling through it and putting a bolt through the side of the head (can't get drill to fit). My only thought at this point is find someone with a portable welder to weld a six point socket to the bolt. Seriously, this thing WILL NOT break loose. At this point I'd be OK with just breaking the damned bolt head. I would genuinely pay dearly through Paypal to anyone who can come up with an idea that doesn't involve welding or removing the whole damned engine. PLEASE HELP.
Hi could you please show the spot to put the wood and jack to lift the engine? I heard it's dangerous to put those right under the oil pan and I'm afraid to do it.
Hi Trung, you heard wrong from "THOSE" people. Have they ever showed you a picture or showed you?? I think not. That is ALL TALK. Just go easy when lifting the engine from the oil pan. If you slam it, then yes it will bend the pan.
As has happened as described below, I broke off the bolt head by using improper force on the tensioner. My bad! Now how do I get the belt off to replace the tensioner? Just cut the belt?
go back to that shop and have them replace it. they broke it, so they should have replaced it at no cost. things break on a car at anytime. if that shop had any integrity, then they should have replaced it. Bet you would not go to them after they make this right. It's their fault and they need to make it right, if not...then spread the bad word about the shop. Karma happens. Good Luck and Welcome. Please subscribe
How many miles are people getting out of their tensioners? I have 155k on mine, I get a squeak on cold mornings but I'm not sure if it's the belt or tensioner. It goes away within minutes.
You are better off getting a new one at an auto store. I think there is a lifetime warranty on it. Just call and see. The junkyard tensioner could make noise because of bad pulley bearing.
Yesterday I was attempting to replace an alternator on an 04' just like this one, first step get the belt off by using the tensioner. Guess what happened.....the tensioner bolt broke into pieces. Now I guess I have to cut the serpentine belt to get it off and replace the tensioner as shown here too! Nightmare. I'm old and no money to pay for a pro, having to borrow $ just for the parts, not sure I can pull this off. But I have to try. And the only floor jack I have is a small one (2000lb rated with a small handle, nothing like those big floor jacks), I hope its enough to lift that engine. Do you think that jack is enough or will I kill myself trying to do this? God help me. Thanks for this video, at least I have a clue now. Liked/subscribed.
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Just changed mine thanks to your video. It really was a pain getting the part out then in, had to take a step back to gather myself and eventually got it. Thx, keep up the good work.
"taking a step back" is why I'm here. My goodness.
Worked great. You need to jack the car take the wheel off then put it on a jack stand. Then place jack under the oil pan, take off the motor mount and then jack the engine up a few inches. That was a little unclear but the key is raising that engine. That frees up the thing. That bolt holding it on cant be taken off until you get the tensioner off no matter what you do. Thanks, very informative video, it worked for me and it wasn't a bunch of unnecessary garble. Right to the point in under five mins. I love it. Thanks.
i love the fact that he didnt do a bunch of blah blah blah got right to the point no words needed
Marlowe Gonzales Thank you for the comment. Please subscribe. Have a nice day.
Pro trick : you can watch movies at flixzone. I've been using them for watching all kinds of movies lately.
@Nathan Crosby Yup, been watching on Flixzone} for since december myself :D
Thanks for the great idea. We spent a solid 6 hours trying to get at it from the top, broke a ratchet and had the tensioner eventually break off. We'll try taking the wheel off and go at it from the side tomorrow.
You're video is excellent, best I've seen on any subject! Very clear and understandable and I don't need to hear you talk. You explain everything very clearly with the notes on screen. I also don't think doing an installation video is necessary because just doing everything in reverse is the obvious answer to how to install it. This is not an easy job so there will no doubt be some complications, but watching your video several times should clear up any issues that could arise. Thanks!!
Man, I’m glad I didn’t watch this video or read comments before I tried it. I just went ahead and removed/ installed the tensioner. That is, without raising the engine and other stuff. Guess I got lucky and had a shorter bolt?
Just replaced my tensioner using this video. Some tips/observations
- While jacking up the engine, the car is going to move up a little too, as weight is lifted off the suspension.
- I initially thought I'd jack up the engine high enough to get a socket on the upper bolt of the tensioner. I couldn't get the engine high enough without getting nervous about damaging the oil pan, so instead I jacked up the engine, used a serpentine belt tool with a 14mm 6-point socket to break loose the bolt, then a wrench to loosen all the way. I had the engine just barely high enough to get the bolt to clear the side of the engine bay, like in the video.
- To get the new tensioner on, I recommend getting the tensioner pretty much in place, then try to slip the bolt in. Then place the bottom of the tensioner on the bottom bolt. Tighten the top bolt and bottom nut together (prevent any binding).
- Maybe this is common knowledge, but when putting the serpentine belt back on, use one of the smooth pulleys to slip the belt on. I tried lining up the belt on all the pulleys except the alternator, then relieving tension and putting the belt over the alternator pulley. But the pulleys on the components (AC, alternator, etc) have a lip on the outside, making it tough to slip the belt on. Just slip the belt over on of the smooth pulleys, i.e. no lip to worry about
Fuggin Toyota 🤦♂️.. I say lynch the engineers
@@norakat Toyota laughed when someone said “we should make it easy to replace parts”
I definitely will. The more I think about it the more ticked I am that he didn't offer to replace it right then. I really don't know how he got the belt on, but I do know it took him much longer than it was supposed to (instead of 30 mins it took him about an hour and a half). Next time I'll check your videos and if I can do something myself, I will! Btw, Vegas rules!!! We go there at least once a year, it's awesome. No other city quite like it in the world for a good time.. Thanks again man!!!
Best video I have seen on replacing tensioner, as I am currently doing mine...
What an amazing way to share your video, even posting the right kind of tools to use to effectively do this job, thanks a lot!
good vid found on the 07 camrys if you drop the top nut on the drivers side lower engine mount along with everything else mentioned in the vid you can get that long ass bolt out alot easier 👍
Heck yeah, thank you! took me two hrs, a lot of wiggling out and wiggling in. Satisfying to get that 200 mm long pivot bolt back in at last 😂
Great video, it's okay to talk a little though, I would never hold it against you for producing such a helpful "How-to"
Worked perfectly on my 2007 Toyota Camry. Thank you for the video.
Thank you! This video was very helpful to me and my buddy while working on a 2001 Toyota Rav4. Be patient. Go slow. Take breaks if you need to. Otherwise, you'll end up breaking stuff.
Awesome!! Welcome!! Thank you for the comment. I really appreciate it. Please subscribe and have a nice day.
Awesome man, that's good you saved money. Welcome anytime!!
I'm going back to leave this comment on every belt tensioner video I can find… When we put on the new tensioner, we still couldn't move it by using the built-in bolt head…UNLESS the engine was lifted!! Then it was easy! I'm not telling you I know why... But, if you want to make your life easy, put the serpentine belt back on BEFORE you lower the engine!
Sure would have been nice to see how you reinstalled the tensioner. Followed your video in every aspect to remove the tensioner. Which by the way worked great. I never could position the new tensioner correctly to mount it. I mean I tried and tried many times. Finally I put the tire back on and had it towed to a repair shop to have the new tensioner and new belt installed. So if you could do a video on installing the belt tensioner once the old one is removed would be a great lesson for me.
+Rex Parrish I'm sorry you did not get the new tensioner in. It's very important to remember how you removed it because it will always go in the same way you removed it. I will try to do another video. Thank you for the comment.
I pulled mine off and would not go back on, seems that I had a 1 inch gap between bottom studd and shock. I've ordered another tensioner because I'm assuming this spring is broken, I can't think of another reason why the gap is so massive. I've had to remove this 5 times previously because of a bad power steering pump, then a bad rack and pinion a day later because the pump wasn't performing, Then a day later figured the pump we bought is bad so we have a new pump on order, again! Oh, and another time because we thought the power steering pump pressure switch was at fault, so now we're going back together for the 5th time and now the tensioner won't reach end to end?? BTW, second tensioner because the first one has a gouged leverage nut. What a piece of shit!!!
Three weeks of shit!. My other car is a 1990 trofeo. I changed the water pump, harmonic balancer, ignition module and harness, serpentine belt all in 1 hour!! And never cussed! This car can go to hell as far as I'm concerned... but, because it's my son's car I'm working on it, maybe I'll learn something? Still waiting to see what that is?.
Thank you! Your an absolute legend.
On 4-cylinder Highlander 2006, the long bolt can be taken out without lifting the engine. There is enough room between a fully extended bolt and the wall.
Start with removing lower nut and then as upper bolt removal progresses, move tensioner along towards the wall. Once the bolt fully unscrewed, the tensioner will drop down.
To install new tensioner, first secure long bolt with a masking tape, flash with the right wall of the tensioner. This will keep the bolt fixed in place as you navigate the tensioner assembly. Get it first aligned with the lower bolt and put a nut on, just a bit loose, to allow to wiggle the assy. Line-up the upper bolt to its intended position. Your are done after that. Put the belt back on.
This video was so helpful. Thanks for the trick of lifting engine and tilting bolt to get it out. I also discovered bad upper motor mount thanks to your advise!
welcome, please like and subscribe. thank you
I have an 04 Camry and what i did was take the tensioner out from the bottom, eliminating lifting the engine and it was sort of easy. The hardest part was taking out and putting back in that long screw. lol
Chuckaluck Too awesome you did it. I’m going to try that. See if it’s easier. Thank you for the comment.
Actually l had trouble placing it back into the car from the bottom, so I ended up doing it the way you did it by jacking up the engine and so forth. It was actually sort of easy that way and quicker. Funny how things work out sometimes. lol
Just picked up my 02 Camry from the shop with the belt tensioner installed. Here is what I was told, there is a lower motor mount to the side of the crank pulley. The bolt on top of the mount must be removed so that when you raise the engine, the engine actually raises to allow clearance to the bolt to clear when removing and installing the belt tensioner. While this is not a must for removing the tensioner, it is an absolute must when installing the tensioner.
+Rex Parrish I have done more than 50 of those belt tensioners and I do not need to remove the nut on the lower motor mount to raise the engine for more clearance.
Why wouldn't the new tensioner go in the same way if you removed the old one. Maybe because you forgot how you removed it. That is why, you have to remember how you removed the old tensioner to get the new tensioner in without any trouble. I guess I have more patience than others.
+88BmyVegas Automotive i have the same problem. it is very easy to take it off, but i do not know how to put it in. My car is still on a jack stand and a jack.
All I can tell you is that perhaps, I'm didn't do my smartly. While I did pay close attention as to how I removed the belt tensioner, for the life of me, I could get it back to a position that I could mount it. I remounted the right front tire and had it towed to a shop. Here is what the shop machine told me. First me removed the nut on the engine mount that is to the side of the crank pulley and then he jacked up that side of the engine. He insisted that if you did do this and and jacked up the passenger side of the engine, via the oil pan with a floor jack and a piece of 2x4, all you were doing was raising the entire right side of the car. The author of the video, 88BmyVegas, insisted this was not necessary as he had done over 50 of these jobs. I asked him to do a video on how to install a belt tensioner once the old one was removed and he agreed to do so sometime in the future. The he went on to comment that you must pay particular attention on how you remove it so that you can go back in the same matter you removed it. I just didn't get this. In any event, the mount the mechanic insisted he had to remove the nut from is just the left of the Crank Pulley. If you opt to do this, please be certain you do not move the engine so high as to clear the mount. If you don't feel comfortable doing this, I would recommend remounting the front right wheel and have it towed to a shop.
+Rex Parrish i read your comment, and i did remove the two bolts of the lower engine mount close to crank pulley. However, it did nothing. Moreover, i saw the other engine mount looks ripped off. As a result, i lowered the engine a lot. i did put it on by taking apart the arm and pulley and installed them separately followed by tightening the bolt to connect the two parts.
Holy Cow! You mean that the engine did not move at all when placing a 2 x 4 block of wood on a floor jack and jacking up the right side of the engine via the oil pan?
I appreciate your prompt response. Like I said, your video was super and aided me immensely in removing the tensioner but going back in with the new one just didn't workout for me. I am still pondering what I failed to do. I keep asking myself what is it that I failed to do. I mean I jacked the passenger side of the engine well beyond 2" and was still unable to clear the side of the engine compartment to get the bolt started. I even considered grinding out a chunk of metal out of the side of the engine compartment to aid me but opted out for fear I would damage the AC line that runs along the engine compartment. In any event super video, just wished you would, once again do a video on installing the new tensioner once the old one is removed. Many thanks.
Thank you! Very clear and understandable.
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this video was a huge help!! thanks!
you are so good !!!!!!!!!!
Hey I did this last night but I didn't put the wood under the pan til after I took off the dogbone mount. I was scared about crushing the pan. That upper bolt was in a bad spot. The car purrs now thanks for the help.
Is this the same process for a 2005 Scion Tc with this same engine. Thanks
Thank you for these thorough instructions. However, I hit a snag the when the tensioner lug cracked off. Apply slow even pressure to lug with breaker bar. If not moving then the strut is seezed. I had to remove the Alt to relieve tension on belt. Then removed the tensioner assembly.
Could have cut the belt off and got a new one.
awsome vid! great format. SUBSCRIBE AND LIKE. (no incessant apologies, talking and no unnecessary/unrelated background stories about last months vacation to cabul)
*Presente cordial saludo desde Navoyork Sonora México
Came out just like you said. Thank you.
I just replaced mine and it wasn't difficult at all. One thing that you don't mention is the need to remove the engine mount top nut, otherwise you'll be jacking up the whole car by the oil pan. Once the engine is up it's very easy to insert a small ratchet and loosen the tensioner bolt.
Luis Zelaya 1:38?
@@FixItAngel Hi Angel, not the torque one, but the engine support at the bottom. I love your videos by the way.
@@luiszelaya6299 oh ok, thank you for telling us your tip. it's greatly appreciated. i will put that on the video description. thank you for watching my videos. have a nice day.
What brand makes the OEM tensioner? What brand belt should I get? Thanks for the video!
Thank you so much... This video was so for damn helpful.... Been looking four a how to I got a 09 corolla pretty much the same gave me a great outlook...
Welcome and thank you for the comment. please subscribe and have a nice day.
Hi man~I changed tensioner ,water pump, thermostat and drive belt~!~!tensioner that last bolt~ u need unscrew under engine mount 1 bolt.and then life on oil fan~(dog born as well)if u do that its very easy to remove and install.
I swapped the upper engine mount screw with this one because it is shorter in length and can be removed directly with the belt tensioner without removing the screw first
Good video. I replaced only the pulley bearings. By removing the belt as shown, then using a 3/8" stubby t50 torx bit from Half Cut tools(it is only 1" long) and a 3/8" breaker bar the pulley bolt on the tensioner can be broken loose. Use the 3/8" size, there is not enough room for a 1/2" drive. Remove the pulley and replace the bearings(2 ea premium 6203 RS on eBay for $400 for a new tensioner.
Put medium Loctite on bolt when reinstalling. Stubby t50 needs to be 1-1/8" long, Half Cut is the only one that I found, available on eBay
I can't find the ebay seller are you referring to.... Approx how much is that stubby T50 too?
Also, from pictures(I don't have the tensioner out yet), but it seems like one original bearing. Did you put 2 new ones to replace 1 old one? thanks.
always welcome. Vegas Baby Vegas!!
Great video thanks
That was awesome! Thank you!
Great video but what would you do if the tensioner dumby bolt is stripped and won’t twist to remove the tension for the belt to come off?
Most people just end up cutting the belt off
@@joebenny belt was basically new so didn’t want to throw away $45. Ended up doing that and getting a new tensioner as well.
Did you jack engine up without removing the lower mount nut?
Oh.. I see now at 0:45 that is what you are using to help push the tensioner down with to release the belt, correct? Do you know if that bolt head is broke off, will I be able to replace the belt again without having to replace the entire tensioner? I realize now this could be more serious than I was led to believe. Again thanks so much for any help!
For comparison folks, I had the tensioner seize and consequently had the 18/19mm head strip. I got part way into this and gave it up to the auto shop, it ran me $530.00. So take that into consideration. (new belt [~$50], new tensioner, +labor)
How much was the tensioner?
@@dancrumbo5922 I don't recall the exact price, I believe the mechanic at the time (who is now out of business) quoted around $125.
Thanks! Great vid. I need a longer wrench for the top bolt but should be done in the AM. Greetings from Lexington.
EZ
welcome, please subscribe and have a nice day
I would like to add to the choruses of THANK YOU!!
Hey. Do I have to lift the engine up a bit to unloosen the bolt to the belt tensioner
On my 2005 Camry I pulled the dog bone rt side motor mount, and little force you can push the engine to the left, away from you while pulling the bolt, I did and was fine
It is much easier to remove that long bolt by removing the transverse engine mount at the bottom and jacking the engine slightly higher above that cross member to get a much better clearance ! (nice tools by the way)
+7smr The transverse engine mount? Which one is that? There is a mount located at the bottom front of the engine and there is a mount at the bottom of the side of the engine, to the left of the crank pulley.
It might be "risky" but if its an older car and your mounts are really worn.. You can actually use a long bar to move the engine towards driver side fractions of an inch to clear wrench space or even change a pulley or to shim an ac compressor mag clutch
Whats more impressive is it was all done with only one hand
If it normal for the BRAND NEW tensioner to already have about a half millimeter of side to side movement?
Not being able to install the new tensioner after removing the old one, is still bugging me! Do I somehow slide the new tensioner with the bolt in it? If so, how do I do this? I jacked up the engine so high on the passenger side via the oil pan, I was afraid I would brake the engine mount but luckily I didn't. Do I slide the tensioner into position without the bolt and then try to insert the bolt? I was actually thinking about cutting a chunk of metal out of the way just to aid in mounting the bolt. Any advice for next time? I had the car towed to a shop to have the new tensioner and new belt installed.
I was also able to remove the bolt without jacking the engine up, but it didn't go that way on my install. Stupid car
Great video need to emphasize ! Undoing bottom motor mount is just flashes on the screen with words and really emphasize putting even pressure on the 19 mm tension release bolt because I broke mine off!!!! I put too much pressure on it and broke the tension-er....
What was solution to getting out the broken bolt?
So how was the engine able to be jacked up when you still had the lower motor mount bolted up? I have seen a few comments saying the top bolt on the lower engine mount needs to be removed as well. I am working on a 2002 Camry as we speak and that is my opinion as well from looking at it. I'll post an update when I get done.
My tensioner dummy bolt is broke. Is it safe to just cut the belt since i will be replacing both belt and tensioner anyway.
That’s what I did
that adapters a lil much but hey good info much-needed.
do this process is the same for a camry 2007 LE 4cyl ? thank you
yes
Does this go with a scion tc as well?
The Camry 2011 engine 2AR-FE does it come with one drive belt or sett of 2 pec and what size
Would jacking up the engine go access that long bolt apply to a scion tc as well?
I am not positive but I think that would be the only way to remove the long bolt.
It worked for me, I ended up taking off the right motor mount and the motor mount bolt for the front and got enough clearance to take the bolt off. Thank you!
+datchulo1085 i finished the job this afternoon. I think you jack up the engine in order to take off the top engine mount. When the top engine mount is off, you will have more room to operate your wrenches. it is very easy to take it off, but it is ten times harder to put it back on.
Is that a 19mm bolt you compress to release tension, and can it be removed?
19mm or 3/4
is it possible to JUST replace the pulley?
What part number would it be?
Also what brand is the OEM tensioner?
did you see my coment/ question yesterday? is the tensioner leaking on that car?
if you do this on a camry 2007 and up you will need to take the right side motor mount off, if not the engine is gonna vine and you will start lifting the whole car up by the oil pan which is not a good idea lol.
is there a torque spec for those bolts?
Would it be possible, and furthermore; would it be wise to attempt to replace only the actual bearing and not the entire tensioner ? I.e. remove bearing and try to find one that matches or inspect for identifying attributes? Thanks in advance. Also, this would allow you to save time, knuckles, hands, money, and avoid having to remove the entire tensioner.
Actually no it is super pressed. But you can grease the bearing with a grease gun a squeeze a few thousand more miles out of it
88bmyvegas, thanks for posting the helpful video. Unfortunately I just took my 04 Camry XLE to the shop to let them replace the serp belt and they accidentally broke off the casted bolt looking thing (which is at the top of the tensioner @ 4:22). They got the new belt on and acted like it was no big deal. They said the tensioner would still work fine, but after leaving I started getting suspicious about it. Do you know what that bolt head is for? Does it help remove the tensioner? Thanks again!
To anyone reading this, that boss is to move the tensioner in order to install and remove the belt. There are other ways--allegedly.
I don't know how they put on the new belt since the tech broke the casted bolt. so maybe they can only do it when you need something else replaced, like the alternator. but it's better to have it replaced now. they must have pryed on something and use leverage to get the belt out. by doing that, something else can break. just have them replace it before it becomes a bigger problem in the future. thank you
Drive belt tensioner or motor mount
Not sure if it’s my tension pulley or water pump making noise
Thought this was the one to help me but I have a 98 4cyl 2.2L Eng. I can't get the tensioner for the belt to come off, the one that pivots with spring on one end, adjustment bolt that you tighten down in end when fully adjusted per specs then the pin the whole tensioner swivels on. The part where the swivel is where I'm having issues. Do I need to remove camshaft gear and remove rear cover to get it loose from the back side or how does it come out as right now it just rocks back and forth until I can get it out to put a water pump, timing belt kit. The water pump shelled out taking the pump housing out as well so that's another part I have. I'm ready for install as soon as I get the tensioner replacement figured out. Hopefully you can help me as I've searched exhaustively on how to do this. If it involves removing the camshaft gear and rear cover behind the camshaft then I'll be bummed as I could've did that and had the job done by now. Look forward to responses.....
+Dale N Did you research for pictures in the internet? You need to push the tensioner and then tighten the bolt. It will loosen the t-belt.
+Fix It Angel Belt is off already. Got the part you mentioned about removing the belt and the center bolt removal and the spring removal done.
I need to get that tensioner assembly to come off as at the point it pivots to the left of the big bolt is little pin that would be to the left if your looking at it from the passenger side of the vehicle.
I have another problem as well now as I can't get the camshaft gear loose as the water pump is off along with the timing belt.
I'm thinking if I remove the backing plate behind the camshaft gear I can get the tensioner pin to loosen from behind. Do you know if this will solve the problem I'm having or not? 98 Toy Camry 4 Cyl 2.2L Eng
I have the Front and Rear engine mounts removed along with the passenger side one and I still can't get the engine high enough to remove the camshaft bolt with a electric impact once I figure out how to secure it.
I actually have a subscription to Mitchell 1 DIY for all my vehicles as this gives me pictures and diagrams but this still has me stumped as I haven't seen it mentioned anywhere how to remove the tensioner from the backing plate. It's a different style than the one on your vehicle as they changed the tensioner setup in 2000 - 2001 or somewhere in there from my understanding as your's is way different than mine.
I saw you have you're a tech at a dealer in your profile so I figured I'd ask you since Toyota seems your brand unless that employment status has changed and profile info is old?
It should come off since it is only a pin. You need to remove the valve cover and use a wrench to hold the camshaft and then remove the camshaft bolt. Do not use a impact gun, the bolt can snap of something can go wrong.
David, you mention "3/8" stubby t50 torx bit from Half Cut tools(it is only 1" long)"....where can I find that store?
i no my 08 camry v6 has a different tensioner on it than a 4cykinder do i do this same process looks like i need to take off more bolts
Why was the tensioner replaced? I have a sound coming from that area but I can't figure out what part is causing it. It sounds like a bad bearing. I was suspecting the alternator until I saw your video. Is there a way to find out which component has the bad bearing? I have a 2005 Camry with the 4-cylinder.
*****
Thanks! The vinyl tube idea sounds good. It ended up being a failing water pump.
That's what I will do. The guys there are usually really cool and helpful, I think the mechanic may have just been afraid to tell his manager he broke it or something. He claimed the hydraulic piston that keeps the tension was stuck and the amount of force he had to put on it caused it to break. He was very nice about it, but never offered to replace the whole assembly. Btw, would it be possible to replace the belt with that broke? I already beat you to the subscribe, it's done! Thanks!!
Is that the Hawaiian surfing hand gesture? I know how u feel. Is like a silent movie wass going on..
Thank you
welcome
Was the engine jacked up a couple of inches just to provide clearance so that the bolt from the tensioner can be pulled out? And was the dog bone mount removed just so you could jack the engine up? Thanks.
Yes the engine was jacked up a couple inches till the bolt had clearance to come off. And yes the doggone was removed too. Welcome. Please subscribe and have a nice day.
88bmyvegas
Thanks. I've already subscribed. I have 2002 Camry. This was the only video (and Internet search result) that showed how to replace the Camry tensioner. Hope you will keep the videos coming.
Welcome, yes I will make more videos since I have a 2004 Camry.
*****
So you jacked engine up without removing fasteners on the bottom motor mounts and transmission mount? And there was not too much stress (I'm mainly concerned about engine and transmission union) when you jacked up engine high enough for total bolt clearance?
I'm about to change the tensioner on my 2002 Camry, but am a little concerned about how much I can jack engine up with the motor/transmission mounts still bolted on. Thanks for any reassuring comments about this.
*****
Thanks. I should be receiving new tensioner and belt next week and will try to install following weekend. Maybe you removed top bolt on right front motor mount? I believe that would be under the belt and pulleys location. Anyway, I'll jack up slowly and see. But full clearance would be great--will have to look if I can even get a torque wrench on the long tensioner bolt without the full clearance.
Sunday, July 25, 2021
A question for anyone:
The tensioner bolt on my 2004 Corolla snapped. The car has 107,000 miles. It was a real project to get the broken bolt out of the engine block, with trying different drill bits and using a right angle drill attachment. I finally got the remains of the broken bolt out last night, woo hoo!
Is it worth using Permatex anti-seize compound for aluminum on the new bolt? It's a 3 hour trip by bus and bicycle to buy a bottle from Menard's Hardware Store.
Thank you much.
hi mate
I tried to serpentine belt off.. 19mm socket.. but it's too strong could not do it.
what can I do ? pulled all the way but..belt won't come out..
+GERRARD9292 Hello, you have to use a breaker bar so you can easily get more leverage.
umm...I broke tensional bolt... it`s too tight couldn`t off belt. in that happen what`s the 2nd way?
cut the belt off. and buy a new one. sorry it happens. it happened to me once.
GERRARD9292 I broke mine also and realized it was because of the angle I was pulling on the nut. I was not applying the pressure downward but toward the front of car.
I broke mine too. In the moment the tensioner was broken, the new belt was just put on. Now after several year, I cannot get the belt off any more.
It's it ok to jack it up just on the oil pan?
yes, but put a 2x4 wood between the oil pan and jack. jack very slowly.
You may but why take a chance to damage the oil pan or engine mounts when you can jack the car from the frame chassis?
ignore mi answer
I put my jack rt under the nut of the oil pan, jacked rt up. No issues, engine is light
Stuck! on the engine lifting step. I have the following removed: Torque Strut Mount, Bottom Engine Mount Bolt Nut (in the passenger wheel well) however when I jack up the engine the whole front end proceeds to lift (jack & wood block are only touching the oil pan) enough that the jack stand on the same side of the car becomes "free". I also tried removing an additional mount nut located in the front of the engine bay. This allowed the engine to rotate but still didn't lift up enough to reach the tensioner bolt. Any thoughts? When I imagined the engine lifting I would have thought the mounting bracket in the wheel well would have "slid" up the bolt with the engine however it looks like it never becomes free from the rubber portion below. Could this be frozen together preventing the engine from lifting up?
Matt Sharpe hi Matt, try removing the nuts on the bottom of the motor mount. The top might be rusted and fused together.
That's what I was thinking and will try tomorrow! will post back with how it goes
How much should I pay someone to get this replaced? I was quoted around 400$ and I think it's way too expensive. I have an 02 Camry btw
I don't know I feel lost watching a video
Stripped the hell out of the upper 14mm bolt that connects the tensioner to the block. CANNOT get at it (upper engine mount removed; engine mount bracket removed; alternator removed; water pump removed; lower strut on tensioner completely removed; no serpentine). Tried drowning in PB for days, tried blasting with heat. Tried drilling through it and putting a bolt through the side of the head (can't get drill to fit). My only thought at this point is find someone with a portable welder to weld a six point socket to the bolt. Seriously, this thing WILL NOT break loose. At this point I'd be OK with just breaking the damned bolt head. I would genuinely pay dearly through Paypal to anyone who can come up with an idea that doesn't involve welding or removing the whole damned engine. PLEASE HELP.
Hi could you please show the spot to put the wood and jack to lift the engine? I heard it's dangerous to put those right under the oil pan and I'm afraid to do it.
Hi Trung, you heard wrong from "THOSE" people. Have they ever showed you a picture or showed you?? I think not. That is ALL TALK.
Just go easy when lifting the engine from the oil pan. If you slam it, then yes it will bend the pan.
Oh okay got it. Thank you, I will try that. Your video is awesome. Keep up the good work!
You're really fast at responding also!
As has happened as described below, I broke off the bolt head by using improper force on the tensioner. My bad! Now how do I get the belt off to replace the tensioner? Just cut the belt?
Kenneth Knight Sorry it happened. Yes you need to cut the belt.
Why did you not fix it the same way you removed it? What was the reason for removing all the other parts?
hmmm have it all the way to ready to take out but didn't take off the motor mount. Probably why I can't get it out.
go back to that shop and have them replace it. they broke it, so they should have replaced it at no cost. things break on a car at anytime. if that shop had any integrity, then they should have replaced it. Bet you would not go to them after they make this right. It's their fault and they need to make it right, if not...then spread the bad word about the shop. Karma happens. Good Luck and Welcome. Please subscribe
How many miles are people getting out of their tensioners?
I have 155k on mine, I get a squeak on cold mornings but I'm not sure if it's the belt or tensioner. It goes away within minutes.
Did u fix it yet mine does the same thing I got 193000 on mine if u fixed it was was the squeak
If its on cold mornings only it could be dew once the belt warms up no slippage
My tension bolt broked off is there any other way to remove tension
Cut the drive belt and install a new tensioner
thanks for responding. is it bad if I put a new belt with a used tensioner
Welcome, was the tensioner bought at a junkyard?
yes
You are better off getting a new one at an auto store. I think there is a lifetime warranty on it. Just call and see. The junkyard tensioner could make noise because of bad pulley bearing.
I wish I kind of heard what the finished product sounded like
Can you do mine
Thats how to remove the tensioner not how to replace...😡
Why are you changing this ? How we will know this tensioner is bad ?
What was the purpose of jacking the car up under the oil pan?
iluvbogs you need to remove the bolt. The engine needs to be 3-4 inches higher.
Yesterday I was attempting to replace an alternator on an 04' just like this one, first step get the belt off by using the tensioner. Guess what happened.....the tensioner bolt broke into pieces. Now I guess I have to cut the serpentine belt to get it off and replace the tensioner as shown here too! Nightmare. I'm old and no money to pay for a pro, having to borrow $ just for the parts, not sure I can pull this off. But I have to try. And the only floor jack I have is a small one (2000lb rated with a small handle, nothing like those big floor jacks), I hope its enough to lift that engine. Do you think that jack is enough or will I kill myself trying to do this? God help me. Thanks for this video, at least I have a clue now. Liked/subscribed.