@@WatchJRGo Have you seen them load a wiring harness from the rack into a car body on the assembly line? You might want to raise that time estimate Jr. LMAO!
@@WatchJRGo proper way to cycle is to turn back to accessory (past off) and back to ON position three times within ten second period with atleast a second in between a cycle. I wait for 3 beeps and it always works unless the magnet in the fob is damaged or missing.
I was dropping kids toys off at the charity shop when the guy came running out after me saying “Hey man your car keys are in the kids buggy you dropped off” I turn around and he hands me a set of Mitsubishi car keys. I ordered another replacement key years earlier for the wife’s Mitsubishi Outlander at a cost of $500. Our son years earlier….must have picked up the car keys and put them in his little fisher price buggy he sat on and drove around the house for like 5 years as a kid 😂😂😂😂 The wife blamed me for loosing those keys years earlier too, it made us laugh so hard. When I sold the car the kid said why is there three sets of key’s… I said don’t ask 🙄🙄🙄🙄
JR , I think you missed you calling. Your young still yet, you make a hell of a good teacher ! Your calm, concise, and and sort of a monotone voice that's easy to listen too and your chain of logic is easy to follow! Great tailgate talk !
Caterpillar has “Toolbox Talks” meant to be a daily or maybe weekly safety meeting. We would get them emailed to us and we’d go over the content before we began work in the morning. I don’t know if Cat still does this as it’s been years since I’ve been involved in a toolbox talk.
An electronic immobilizer something that drives drives JR absolutely bonkers and makes for great TH-cam videos. Absolutely RIGHT TO REPAIR should be for everyone.
You have to cycle the ignition after it says cycle ignition meaning turn key all the way back to accessory and back to ON position (not start) three times within ten seconds.
I’ve had a regular Cherokee not grand Cherokee with the same issues with skim. Found a same year ecu/pcm an unplugged the skim an tossed the ecu in. Ran great, best part ecu from pick an pull was only $75.
One day at Home Depot I entered the wrong Chevy Blazer… legit same color, same key to enter. I was freaking out. I was like who the hell cleaned my car!
many years ago I took the key out of a '64 Riviera in one junkyard. Looked at buying a '56 Special in another yard, maybe 10 miles away from the first. For some reason tried the '64 key in it. it worked.
We had a couple guys in the Army who had two different Chevy vehicles. They would mess with each other by stealing stuff or moving stuff around in the other ones vehicles. Chevy Silverado and Chevy Tahoe
I used to work at a place where like 20 employees needed keys for our fleet of company ford and chevy cars. they used the chip keys. So my mechanic took apart the steering column and hides a chipped key in it next to the cylinder. Then we can make all the cheap generic keys we want for them!
The early 2000's GM cars, you could cut the wires to to transponder and place a resister inline. Reset the key with the 10 min learn x3 and you bypassed the pats with a 10 cent resister.
Hey JR, try a different key. I have a 2011 Jeep and used pin pull to get my code. I had a key that failed programming, it kept saying programming complete but the key never worked. I ended up buying an OEM key, had it cut and programmed it myself. Bam, successful programming and a working key.
Yup, sometimes these keys fail. And you don't have to spend OE money for a new key. A quality Strattec key for cheap works just fine, and make friends with someone at a Jeep dealer to program it. Takes all of 15 minutes. Unless the SKIM module is borked....
Yeah, I'm not sure why he thinks the key is fine if he didn't see it running with the old engine. Get a new key and start from scratch - and DON'T engage the starter when "cycling" the key during programming.
Exactly what I just commented proper way to cycle is to turn back to accessory (past off) and back to ON position three times within ten second period with atleast a second in between a cycle. I wait for 3 beeps and it always works unless the magnet in the fob is damaged or missing.
Yep, I would have tried cycling just to the point of not engaging the starter. That's how I remember doing it on our PT Cruisers. On the flip side, why is JR wasting so much time with this? Hours and hours. Is his time not more valuable? It would have been cheaper to go to the dealer and get a factory key.
JR your calmness over this issue is amazing. Eventually you will get this sorted. You have such great knowledge on everything you do and you post such great videos. Thanks for posting!
Dorman actually makes a key programmer that plugs into your OBDII port - It will let you make your own key. I've used it on two WJ's now and it works well.
@@RS-cd9cf You aren't the brightest tool are you. So you think knowledge is only had or gained when something works. You obviously wouldn't understand how progress is made and new things are learned. It seems to be a conversation over your head.
Got any transponder codes? I had a Durango, owned by a city. They sent it to the Dodge dealer for skim issues. The dealer replaced the PCM and was unable to reprogram the skim. City took the car backhand sold it dead at auction. I bought it. Turns out a fuse was blown that sent power to the skim module. I found this out by checking power and grounds at the skim module. Replaced the fuse and reprogrammed the keys. Was good to go.
My Brother installed an immobilizer on his Jeep Cherokee XJ. It literally did save his Jeep from being stolen. I installed the same brand on my Wrangler. I don't live in the greatest of neighborhoods, and it's the easiest one to get access to in my fleet. It's nice peace of mind.
Good talk on how these things work. I'm a remote starter installer and have had to deal with these things for years now. Of course as installers we can only bypass working versions. Have a good one! -Jon
One of the best immobilizers I encountered was also one of the simplest. Wired to the brake pedal switch, when the pedal was applied it killed the ignition, There was an On/Off toggle switch. It was very effective because a thief stealing the vehicle at some point had to hit the brakes, and often it was when he was in the middle of the road or an intersection. Highly visible when the engine died the thief would bail.
Dude I watched you grow from back in the day when I watched hoovies garage. I hope you’re still on the grind and doing your thing . You had a lot of interesting videos
My grand cherokee used to immobilize I'd just put the key in the door and lock and unlock it 3 times and fixed. Didn't have a chip or keyless fob so it was all I could do
@@randyhutchinson5253 What mclean1983 said. Aluminum foil will work as one. If you completely wrap a keyless entry fob in aluminum foil the fob won't work. Some people buy faraday cage wallets but that's a little too extreme for me. I only put my fob in a metal enclosure when I'm home. But also because that particular ice bucket has sentimental value.
@@randyhutchinson5253 that prevents thieves from using a radio transponder to read your key while it sits in your house, then retransmit the code to unlock and start the car.
Always informative. Always positive. I just don't watch that many automotive TH-camrs anymore. They just ain't makin' it! No time for whinners or braggers!
What you really need is a DRB III or a DRB III Emulator, you can program the keys and fobs. I'm going through that right now with my wife's 2004 Grand Cherokee, I have new keys and fobs but because it only came with one set I can't program the new ones and the fob is a pain in the ass because she has the memory seats and only the dealership can program them according to the interwebs. I can't wait to see what you end up doing to get ride of SKIM, hopefully without having to reprogram or replace the ECU. The PIN is an odd one, I was able to go to my local Chrysler Dealership walk over to the parts department give them my VIN, ID and vehicle registration and them called and got me the PIN no charge. The parts department guy said I was lucky some of the new PINs only last 15 mins and then they have to recall for a new PIN.
A buddy of mine and I had Z cars (Datsun 280Zs) that were only a year apart and we discovered soon after I got mine, that our keys would work in each others ignitions. He asked me to help install a fuel pump cut out switch after mine was stolen from where I was working one day. I got it back in one piece and not thrashed. Drove it for a year or more after that before replacing it. I still miss it though. But it was rough and a little banged up.
When I got my 01 skoda octavia stolen, and I godt it back, they had done some coding to the ecu. The no key light would blink, but the car never shot down. Apparently you can buy a box of alibabba that defeats most vw bosh ecu's for 20$.
I appreciate your determination in chasing this down. I had a '93 ZJ with the IR "security" system that would give me fits. I drove it for a few months, burned several quarts of oil trying to fog the NW side of ATL for mosquitoes and sold it for what I paid. Still would like to have another, but only if I could get rid of that infernal system.
I don't know that year of Cherokee. However, I have a 1998 with a similar shut down after brief run, or often just running down the road. Trouble shooting....grabbed the 3 harness plugs at the ECU, wiggle while trying to start/running, created the same symptom. Turns out that the ECU had failed solder joints on the board sockets. So. ... Remove the ECU from the firewall. Carefully open the ECU. Remove the gel coating. Under magnification, solder cracks are visible. Use acetone on a wood swab to remove/dissolve the "conformal coating" at the solder locations, ALL pins just to be sure. Proper solder iron, and tip. Flux and the proper solder. Re solder at ALL pins. CONFORMAL COATING reapplied!!!! Reassemble the ECU. Reinstall in car, waited for the battery to reset. WA LA! Runs like new again! TIP.... the dealer will fix for $1800! And they remove said ECU. Send to some outfit in GA(?). Then reinstall. ALSO, junk yard ECU...MUST be the EXACT same version, alphabet serial code label on the outside of the ECU. Otherwise, you will need to have dealer "reflash" ECU. AND, they refuse to do unless they install the ECU. That has been my experience.
Other than the immobilizer had pretty much the same issues with my $1k Grand Cherokee oil cap broke dipstick handle broke off. I had factory lights but they were faded so I had to polish them out. Other than that its been a great little daily driver runaround when I dont want to use my work van. And for $1000 out the door you cant realy beat it these days. One thing about mine is the 4.0 gets fantastic fuel mileage.
We are experiencing a bigger problem here in Australia now that cars have gotten very hard to steal. Thieves are now breaking into peoples houses to steal the keys for cars!
Cycle key means moving from off to the on position. Starting cancels the process! Handy Chrysler easter egg: Cycling the key 3 times displays any check engine codes in the odometer in this generation! No plug in reader necessary.
That key could be a valet key or have a bad chip inside the key. I would get a new trasponder key. Im sure you did by now already. I was a auto locksmith.
@@dansteffee9759 This WJ isn't fancy enough to have a valet key. All immobilizer keys were gray, and valet keys would say VALET on them if I recall correctly. If it has a pentastar or JEEP on it, it should work just fine.
He didnt cycle the key after programing it proper way to cycle is to turn back to accessory (past off) and back to ON position three times within ten second period with atleast a second in between a cycle. I wait for 3 beeps and it always works unless the magnet in the fob is damaged or missing.
I have an '04 and the gray key is a valet key but it still works to drive it. They need it to run to park it. It just doesn't work on the glove box lock. My black master got lost and I had a locksmith make a copy from the gray key and he was able to program it.
JR on jeeps you have to hold the gas pedal down a little to keep it running after a dead battery. I have a 2000 wrangler and after my battery died I had to charge it and then hold down the gas pedal for a few minutes until it relearns the idle
Back in the day when I had a '94 Grand Prix, I went to Radio Shack bought a resister that matched my key, and with a little help from my Dad who was a GM mechanic, wired it inline to my ignition. No more GM immobilizer.
Another option is to get a matching ECM, SKIM, and key from an identical Jeep (from a salvage yard). Swap ECM, Zip tie the key to the replacement SKIM. Then plug the replacement SKIM with key in and tuck it up under the dash.
My neighbor's Tennessee walker thought my truck was his dog house. He had a beautiful alarm tone, and I would not want to fight him. I loved that dog. I was tho only one allowed in (including the dog's owner).
I dont believe that. Locksmiths charge higher because of the cost of software and hardware required to copy/program keys. Manufacturers are trying to keep cars from being stolen and as always, engineers make things more difficult than need be. The "right to work" issue is very real though.
I ended up getting a 2019 Hyundai Kona SE that still used an old fashioned key ignition. I look at this video and think to myself: that was the best purchase I've made in a while
Hey JR I have a 03 jeep grand Cherokee looks like the one in this video. Crank no start I have checked and test crank and cam good to go have gas pressure engine just rebuilt by me so compression should be good/ a buddy said maybe ECU have nothing but a plug in diagnosis it said code 1389 for jeep all wires look good no blown fuses? what is next?
WELL My brother had a similar problem, after going to two different dealers and several weeks of frustration had a older mech come back from vacation and found his problem.. it turns out there is a module located under the pass side head light, had to cut a hole in that area to access it, that is part of the immobilizer system, Not on any wiring diagram supplied by the local jeep dealer. He only knew about it because back in 2004 he attended a class in Detroit where they told them of this module and that is was not going to be recognized in any factory publications. Replaced that piece, covered by warranty by the way, car started and has been flawless for the last 4 years..
I don’t know anything about the Chrysler system, but Could it be that the transponder chip inside the key is bad? So no matter what you do it’ll never work because the transponder chip isn’t working correctly you know the things to go bad if the keys original and it’s been around forever there’s a good chance that perhaps that chip is no good anymore I’m not putting out a signal are not doing what it supposed to do so no matter how many times your program it and do this and that it’s not gonna work I think you just need to give up and get a different key or just suck it up and take it to the dealership I guess right? Does anyone agree with me on this or is that not possible.
For the GM resistor keys, as the lock cylinders got worn/and so did the keys me and a friend usually bypassed ours by cutting the cable going to it and putting in a resistor between the two wires so it was always given the correct value. luckily it was always in an easy position to get to and only took around 30min to do
I bought my 23 year old truck a couple years ago, and wanted to buy a remote for it. Local place mom and pops place wanted 80 dollars. Oriellys wanted 60. I bought 2 off Ebay for 5 bucks and programmed one myself. This is the way it should be.
Yep... I have two corvettes a 92 and a 96 , I have found out if you turn on the key and the motor won't turn over, just turn off and on the dome light switch and then it will start.
Had an ignition housing switch replaced on 2010 ford escape. Kept the same ignition cylinder with original keys. Vehicle cranks but no start. Had someone put scanner on vehicle and it showed immobilizer. Any ideas?
I'm just interested in buying a dodge durango that has only one thing wrong with it. The owner lost the key somewhere. Money is tight and I can't just go out and buy something like a programed key or ECU. Will the car run if I just unplug the SKIM from the column?
I need help deleting immobilizer on my 2001 audi a6 Quattro. How do you do these cars? It was starting before my instrument cluster fried up, installed a junkyard one but doesn't let it start. How can I bypass this?
Nice video! My car does not start when you turn the key to fast..When i wait a few seconds it starts. But i have a fault code Immobiliser No signal. Any idea??
So I have a mclaren and sometimes it fails to work with my key. I switch ecu’s due to one is a stock ecu and another one is tuned for track use. Can I just remove the immobilizer from my mcalren to avoid issues?
Jr i had a ongoing imobiliser fault with my fiat in the Uk several garages tried new keys programed new halo ring ,was told ecu or Bcm at fault could not delete imobiliser turned out to be the Bcm at fault .
I just purchased a current generation Ford I’m definitely getting spoiled by that 2 way smart key not to mention Ford pass on my phone. That GM VATS system brings back memories I used to cut and copy them all day long back in the day when I worked at a rental company. Biggest 🤬 back in the day was having cut keys from the code by hand with the little key code cutting tool, I had about a 50/50 success rate with them.
I seen something like this problem on KB MOTORS on TH-cam. The video is called “ I bought a $400 mystery jeep that won’t start” Hope this helps you. Check the video 13 minutes in. That’s where he starts getting into how to solve the same problem your having. Hope this helps JR.
Can you help? My dad passed away and his motorhome has a fob separate from a key and I can’t find the fob. No idea what aftermarket make it is. The fob stayed in place with Velcro. I need to bypass or remove. 1999 fleetwood American dream motorhome.
I bought a 97 XJ for $500 because the owner had done some electrical work that caused problems for the ECU. Long story short I finally pulled the Body Control Module out and discovered that I could start the Jeep and run it with no problem. Now, there are no gauges or lights, but this was enough for me to be able to move the Jeep around while working on another truck.
TK's Garage has several videos on how people can steal late model Chrysler and Dodge cars. A hidden switch is the best choice, the more you delay a thief the less likely he is to steal the car.
For that style of immobilizer you can just pull the ecu, ignition key, ignition cylinder, and the immobilizer halo ring that surrounds the ignition cylinder from the junk yard vehicle. You then install all those parts in your car and make a buch of cheap $6 spare keys at Walmart and then tape the key with the chip near the immobilizer halo ring inside your steering column and you are good to go.
I just recently learned that it's pretty easy to program many early to mid 2000s GM vehicles with a chip key. If you have at least one functioning key, you place the already programed key in the ignition and turn it on to the run position for 5 seconds. Then turn the ignition off and quickly put the new unprogrammed key in the ignition and put it in the run position for 5 seconds. Boom, you have a newly programed key. If you ever loose all your keys, you have to put the new key in the ignition 3 times in the run position. You place the new key in the ignition and turn it to the run position and wait for ten minutes. After about 10 minutes, the security light will go out. You then repeat this two more times and if everything was done correctly, your key should be programmed. The only down side to this is that it will erase all the previous keys. So if you find your original one(s), you'll have to either throw them out or reprogram them if it's possible.
For what years? I had a bunch of codes for Ford key fobs. They were different for different models of the same year. Pain in the butt to look up but easy to program. They rape you on the charges. Doesn't take three minutes.
@@robertlee9395 I'm not to certain on the exact year and model ranges, but for my model of vehicle, the Pontiac Aztek, it works for all model years. The video that I looked it up on, it looks like the guy was doing it on a late 2000s GMC/Chevy pickup. The only thing I was angry about when I learned this method, is that's how the locksmith programed the key. His tablet was having a hard time communicating with my car's computer, so he did it the way I described above. So I was a little salty that I paid someone $90 to do something I could have done, but I also didn't know that was possible. I was always told you had to use a computer to program the key. But what was cool about it, the guy showed me how to do it in the future so if I need to ever reprogram a key I know how. And then I found all the videos online on how to do it as well.
My 96 cougar had a ford installed anti theft system. When the module went bad the starter interrupt relay would not work. The starter would not engage at times, thank God I wasn't in a bad area. I bypassed it for the remainder of the ownership. I saw a 90s Tahoe that had a failed gm pass lock system. 9 times out of 10 a manual transmission is a theft deterrent.
The early gm vats was simple yes, but also time consuming to bypass. See 15 variances in ohm value but you have to wait 5 minutes between attempts from one value to the next if the last one was your winner you have an hour and a half invested in determining the needed value.
I bought a 2009 Volvo V50 recently and the buttons on the key/remote all in one thing didn't work, but the key would start the car. So I had to pull out the physical key to unlock the doors which set off the alarm. It was annoying. So I called a locksmith and they couldn't program. Had to go to the Volvo dealer who said the key needed to be replaced. A new key (not including even the emergency physical key blank, let alone a cut key) cost me $460. I've had the immobilizer antenna fail on me on top of a mountain in my 2001 Mazda B3000 when I was out of town on July 4th weekend. I couldn't source a part (even tried the junkyard) and had to take it to the dealer who charged about $200. At least with that truck it's easy to program. I got some new keys for it recently and had them cut and then programmed them myself. Same with the remotes when I first bought the truck.
The best keyless entry remote is the one with a movement sensor, if the key isn't moving it won't open the car, that slows down the "Relay attack" from your keyfob to the car
I've owned 3 WJs and worked on numerous more and never had this issue...but on my 95 zj which has a similar key I was experiencing the same issue. The drivers side key cylinder had a 2 wire electrical connector attached to it by disconnecting and jumping that harness I was able to bypass the security and drive the jeep without issue.
Try feathering the throttle peddle like you would for an old carburetor car. I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee and any time the battery goes really low or dead the first start up requires me to manually run the throttle. I take it for a 1/2 mile drive and the computer relearns the idle mixture.
I doubt I’m telling anything new but I disabled the immobilizer on a pt cruiser by unplugging the module under the dash. It also disables the horn and electronic locks but it means a running vehicle.
Well..the ones that had a jack kind of key..didn't need any resistance. There were two telays on the oc board. Ckose both telays and the car starts. Or you can just bridge out the relays
Technically,I did go to a hardware store to get my 07 GMC Sierra ignition key copied. Ace Hardware charged me $80 for the program key. It took the woman who did it 3 tries. And she thought she did something wrong on the 3rd one when the truck wouldn't start at first. But within 10 minutes the ECU cooperated and that's been my main key for 3+ months now. Ace hardware was definitely cheaper than the dealership doing it.
Cycle key does not mean start it… it means turn it off and on again.. when I LS my TJ I sent everything to a guy in west Australia as he fixed the issues.. not a lot of jeeps over there but he fixed it… this was back in 07 on a 06 TJ
1:31 I had an electric fuel pump on my '72 GMC pickup that had a hidden switch under the dash. The truck really was a POS, but where I lived they got stolen for parts all the time. Was great until I let my brother pick it up from the shop for me and did not tell him about the switch. He only got 1/2 a block then had to call me for help.
I had a similar problem on a Vauxhall van it wouldn't recognise the factory key chip I was told to buy a new chip from Ebay and programme that and it worked first time. My only problem now is the check engine light is on there are no codes and I can turn the light off but if you turn the key off and on it's back.
Keys and remotes are dead - and should be. All you need is your mobile phone + app (and backup card). Tesla has done it and perfected it and everyone will (try to) copy them. I have not touched a car key or remote for YEARS! Love it!
Field mice, the world’s first immobilizer! 😄
Ah yes, takes a couple hours to immobilize, then another 2-3 hours to re-mobilize 💯
@@WatchJRGo Have you seen them load a wiring harness from the rack into a car body on the assembly line? You might want to raise that time estimate Jr. LMAO!
Sugar in the gas tank, was a Reverse Immobilizer!
@@WatchJRGo proper way to cycle is to turn back to accessory (past off) and back to ON position three times within ten second period with atleast a second in between a cycle. I wait for 3 beeps and it always works unless the magnet in the fob is damaged or missing.
Typical Jeep junk.
I was dropping kids toys off at the charity shop when the guy came running out after me saying “Hey man your car keys are in the kids buggy you dropped off” I turn around and he hands me a set of Mitsubishi car keys. I ordered another replacement key years earlier for the wife’s Mitsubishi Outlander at a cost of $500. Our son years earlier….must have picked up the car keys and put them in his little fisher price buggy he sat on and drove around the house for like 5 years as a kid 😂😂😂😂 The wife blamed me for loosing those keys years earlier too, it made us laugh so hard. When I sold the car the kid said why is there three sets of key’s… I said don’t ask 🙄🙄🙄🙄
🤣🤣🤣
JR , I think you missed you calling. Your young still yet, you make a hell of a good teacher ! Your calm, concise, and and sort of a monotone voice that's easy to listen too and your chain of logic is easy to follow! Great tailgate talk !
This type of video should be a regular: Tailgate Talks... Honest conversation, no clickbait sensation.
Like soapbox but tailgate A1
Seconded!
Caterpillar has “Toolbox Talks” meant to be a daily or maybe weekly safety meeting. We would get them emailed to us and we’d go over the content before we began work in the morning. I don’t know if Cat still does this as it’s been years since I’ve been involved in a toolbox talk.
Gotta keep a 1st gen XC90 around for that ;)
Tailgate Talk Tuesdays or Thursdays. No clickbait, no fuss, no muss. Just Talk.
An electronic immobilizer something that drives drives JR absolutely bonkers and makes for great TH-cam videos. Absolutely RIGHT TO REPAIR should be for everyone.
Absolutely true the days of buying something means owning something seem to be long gone.
Auction buy...98 Camry no key at all. Locksmith cut an entry key but it won't start the car. How to bypass this damned immobilizer
You have to cycle the ignition after it says cycle ignition meaning turn key all the way back to accessory and back to ON position (not start) three times within ten seconds.
I’ve had a regular Cherokee not grand Cherokee with the same issues with skim. Found a same year ecu/pcm an unplugged the skim an tossed the ecu in. Ran great, best part ecu from pick an pull was only $75.
One day at Home Depot I entered the wrong Chevy Blazer… legit same color, same key to enter. I was freaking out.
I was like who the hell cleaned my car!
many years ago I took the key out of a '64 Riviera in one junkyard.
Looked at buying a '56 Special in another yard, maybe 10 miles away from the first. For some reason tried the '64 key in it. it worked.
U for real? First time hearing something like this happening and always wondered if it works.
I knew someone in high school that this happened to him with his dodge colt. There were 3 exactly the same in the HS parking lot.
We had a couple guys in the Army who had two different Chevy vehicles. They would mess with each other by stealing stuff or moving stuff around in the other ones vehicles. Chevy Silverado and Chevy Tahoe
I want what you're smoking
I used to work at a place where like 20 employees needed keys for our fleet of company ford and chevy cars. they used the chip keys. So my mechanic took apart the steering column and hides a chipped key in it next to the cylinder. Then we can make all the cheap generic keys we want for them!
I mean, that's basically what an aftermarket remote start installer does.
The early 2000's GM cars, you could cut the wires to to transponder and place a resister inline. Reset the key with the 10 min learn x3 and you bypassed the pats with a 10 cent resister.
Hey JR, try a different key. I have a 2011 Jeep and used pin pull to get my code. I had a key that failed programming, it kept saying programming complete but the key never worked. I ended up buying an OEM key, had it cut and programmed it myself. Bam, successful programming and a working key.
Yup, sometimes these keys fail. And you don't have to spend OE money for a new key. A quality Strattec key for cheap works just fine, and make friends with someone at a Jeep dealer to program it. Takes all of 15 minutes. Unless the SKIM module is borked....
Yeah, I'm not sure why he thinks the key is fine if he didn't see it running with the old engine. Get a new key and start from scratch - and DON'T engage the starter when "cycling" the key during programming.
Most keys can't be reprogramed, write once read many. Once he deleted it a new one needed to be used.
Would cycling be to accessory position (or just shy of start, run I guess) then off vs the start position? Probably not, but worth a shot?
Came to make this same comment. This has always been my interpretation of cycling the key.
Unless he didn't show it on camera, as there is a cut, he didn't cycle it correctly.
Exactly what I just commented proper way to cycle is to turn back to accessory (past off) and back to ON position three times within ten second period with atleast a second in between a cycle. I wait for 3 beeps and it always works unless the magnet in the fob is damaged or missing.
@@RexerYTRexer yeah. My understanding is if you go ahead and start the vehicle, you have to redo whatever process you were trying from scratch.
Yep, I would have tried cycling just to the point of not engaging the starter. That's how I remember doing it on our PT Cruisers. On the flip side, why is JR wasting so much time with this? Hours and hours. Is his time not more valuable? It would have been cheaper to go to the dealer and get a factory key.
JR your calmness over this issue is amazing. Eventually you will get this sorted. You have such great knowledge on everything you do and you post such great videos. Thanks for posting!
Hehe, it's called the miracle of editing. I'm sure curse words were said.
This is the lockpickingJRGO and today we're going to talk about chip keys.
1 is binding
LPL and John Ross colab! Would love it!
Except LPL wouldn't have shown you his Camaro key and its resistance value on screen.
This immobilizer history demo was actually pretty interesting. Great video.
Cycle the key means just
turn it thru the positions,
not cycle start it ?
Dorman actually makes a key programmer that plugs into your OBDII port - It will let you make your own key. I've used it on two WJ's now and it works well.
JR I am always amazed on everything you have an understanding for. You have to be one of the brightest minds on TH-cam.
You realize it didn’t work ?
@@RS-cd9cf You aren't the brightest tool are you. So you think knowledge is only had or gained when something works. You obviously wouldn't understand how progress is made and new things are learned. It seems to be a conversation over your head.
@@moonpie2637 thanx for the long reply, I’m glad I’m in your head !
@@RS-cd9cf Its 4 sentences. Maybe to you that's a "long" reply. You are just proving my point.
@@moonpie2637 in your head !
Got any transponder codes? I had a Durango, owned by a city. They sent it to the Dodge dealer for skim issues. The dealer replaced the PCM and was unable to reprogram the skim. City took the car backhand sold it dead at auction. I bought it. Turns out a fuse was blown that sent power to the skim module. I found this out by checking power and grounds at the skim module. Replaced the fuse and reprogrammed the keys. Was good to go.
My Brother installed an immobilizer on his Jeep Cherokee XJ. It literally did save his Jeep from being stolen. I installed the same brand on my Wrangler. I don't live in the greatest of neighborhoods, and it's the easiest one to get access to in my fleet. It's nice peace of mind.
Good talk on how these things work. I'm a remote starter installer and have had to deal with these things for years now. Of course as installers we can only bypass working versions.
Have a good one!
-Jon
One of the best immobilizers I encountered was also one of the simplest. Wired to the brake pedal switch, when the pedal was applied it killed the ignition, There was an On/Off toggle switch. It was very effective because a thief stealing the vehicle at some point had to hit the brakes, and often it was when he was in the middle of the road or an intersection. Highly visible when the engine died the thief would bail.
Dude I watched you grow from back in the day when I watched hoovies garage. I hope you’re still on the grind and doing your thing . You had a lot of interesting videos
My grand cherokee used to immobilize I'd just put the key in the door and lock and unlock it 3 times and fixed. Didn't have a chip or keyless fob so it was all I could do
This is why I put my keys in a faraday cage otherwise known as an antique penguin ice bucket.
Yup, my keys stay FAR away from the walls of the house 💯
What is a faraday cage?
@@randyhutchinson5253 What mclean1983 said. Aluminum foil will work as one. If you completely wrap a keyless entry fob in aluminum foil the fob won't work. Some people buy faraday cage wallets but that's a little too extreme for me. I only put my fob in a metal enclosure when I'm home. But also because that particular ice bucket has sentimental value.
So it’s for theft? If the key can’t transmit?
@@randyhutchinson5253 that prevents thieves from using a radio transponder to read your key while it sits in your house, then retransmit the code to unlock and start the car.
That's a grey key? Isn't that a valet key? Maybe that's the issue? I know the valet keys limit things? Maybe the issue?
Was just thinking that. My Honda also has a grey valet key.
My TL has the same thing.
Yeah I think Honda valet keys have gray jackets and regular keys have black jackets. Always thought it was similar for other manufacturers.
Chrysler keys of that vintage are grey, not a valet key.
I had to replace my PCM and had them disable skim in the past like you said. Worked great no more issues.
Always informative.
Always positive.
I just don't watch that many automotive TH-camrs anymore.
They just ain't makin' it!
No time for whinners or braggers!
What you really need is a DRB III or a DRB III Emulator, you can program the keys and fobs. I'm going through that right now with my wife's 2004 Grand Cherokee, I have new keys and fobs but because it only came with one set I can't program the new ones and the fob is a pain in the ass because she has the memory seats and only the dealership can program them according to the interwebs. I can't wait to see what you end up doing to get ride of SKIM, hopefully without having to reprogram or replace the ECU. The PIN is an odd one, I was able to go to my local Chrysler Dealership walk over to the parts department give them my VIN, ID and vehicle registration and them called and got me the PIN no charge. The parts department guy said I was lucky some of the new PINs only last 15 mins and then they have to recall for a new PIN.
A buddy of mine and I had Z cars (Datsun 280Zs) that were only a year apart and we discovered soon after I got mine, that our keys would work in each others ignitions. He asked me to help install a fuel pump cut out switch after mine was stolen from where I was working one day. I got it back in one piece and not thrashed. Drove it for a year or more after that before replacing it. I still miss it though. But it was rough and a little banged up.
The key from my 77 280Z works in my 83 ZX Turbo. Quite handy actually since the ZX didn't come with a key!
Could you close the doors and put the key in the lock and reset the system.
This happened on my old Chrysler.
Try it!!
When I got my 01 skoda octavia stolen, and I godt it back, they had done some coding to the ecu. The no key light would blink, but the car never shot down. Apparently you can buy a box of alibabba that defeats most vw bosh ecu's for 20$.
I appreciate your determination in chasing this down. I had a '93 ZJ with the IR "security" system that would give me fits. I drove it for a few months, burned several quarts of oil trying to fog the NW side of ATL for mosquitoes and sold it for what I paid. Still would like to have another, but only if I could get rid of that infernal system.
I don't know that year of Cherokee.
However, I have a 1998 with a similar shut down after brief run, or often just running down the road.
Trouble shooting....grabbed the 3 harness plugs at the ECU, wiggle while trying to start/running, created the same symptom.
Turns out that the ECU had failed solder joints on the board sockets.
So. ...
Remove the ECU from the firewall.
Carefully open the ECU.
Remove the gel coating.
Under magnification, solder cracks are visible.
Use acetone on a wood swab to remove/dissolve the "conformal coating" at the solder locations, ALL pins just to be sure.
Proper solder iron, and tip.
Flux and the proper solder.
Re solder at ALL pins.
CONFORMAL COATING reapplied!!!!
Reassemble the ECU.
Reinstall in car, waited for the battery to reset.
WA LA! Runs like new again!
TIP....
the dealer will fix for $1800!
And they remove said ECU. Send to some outfit in GA(?). Then reinstall.
ALSO, junk yard ECU...MUST be the EXACT same version, alphabet serial code label on the outside of the ECU.
Otherwise, you will need to have dealer "reflash" ECU. AND, they refuse to do unless they install the ECU.
That has been my experience.
Other than the immobilizer had pretty much the same issues with my $1k Grand Cherokee oil cap broke dipstick handle broke off. I had factory lights but they were faded so I had to polish them out. Other than that its been a great little daily driver runaround when I dont want to use my work van. And for $1000 out the door you cant realy beat it these days. One thing about mine is the 4.0 gets fantastic fuel mileage.
We are experiencing a bigger problem here in Australia now that cars have gotten very hard to steal. Thieves are now breaking into peoples houses to steal the keys for cars!
Cycle key means moving from off to the on position. Starting cancels the process!
Handy Chrysler easter egg: Cycling the key 3 times displays any check engine codes in the odometer in this generation! No plug in reader necessary.
Once you erase all keys, you can’t reprogram the old key. Need two new keys to program. We always call a local locksmith that have the capability
I did try just programming the original key first... it wouldn't take that either. 🍻
@@WatchJRGo I think he said that the process used is intended to program new keys not old keys since he said "you can't reprogram the old key".
The original key has failed. Probably water intrusion on the chip. It’s dead, Jim.
@@WatchJRGo Sounds like you miss read. Keys are write once. You need two unwritten key. Also could be edit but the key cycle was not shown correctly.
That key could be a valet key or have a bad chip inside the key. I would get a new trasponder key. Im sure you did by now already. I was a auto locksmith.
You right , gray is valet key .. back in the day you would get 3 sets with car
Had 2 sets for mine,both gray.
@@dansteffee9759 This WJ isn't fancy enough to have a valet key. All immobilizer keys were gray, and valet keys would say VALET on them if I recall correctly. If it has a pentastar or JEEP on it, it should work just fine.
He didnt cycle the key after programing it proper way to cycle is to turn back to accessory (past off) and back to ON position three times within ten second period with atleast a second in between a cycle. I wait for 3 beeps and it always works unless the magnet in the fob is damaged or missing.
I have an '04 and the gray key is a valet key but it still works to drive it. They need it to run to park it. It just doesn't work on the glove box lock. My black master got lost and I had a locksmith make a copy from the gray key and he was able to program it.
uhmmm, can you get the ECU that is paired to that engine?
JR on jeeps you have to hold the gas pedal down a little to keep it running after a dead battery. I have a 2000 wrangler and after my battery died I had to charge it and then hold down the gas pedal for a few minutes until it relearns the idle
Back in the day when I had a '94 Grand Prix, I went to Radio Shack bought a resister that matched my key, and with a little help from my Dad who was a GM mechanic, wired it inline to my ignition. No more GM immobilizer.
Are the headlights flashing? I fixed mine by putting the key in Passenger door and cycling it lock and unlock a couple times. fixed mine.
Another option is to get a matching ECM, SKIM, and key from an identical Jeep (from a salvage yard). Swap ECM, Zip tie the key to the replacement SKIM. Then plug the replacement SKIM with key in and tuck it up under the dash.
When GM introduced the pass lock system on their new cars and trucks car theft was cut by more than 2/3
Slowing down thieves has a dramatic impact.
"The club" greatest immobilizer ever!!
My neighbor's Tennessee walker thought my truck was his dog house. He had a beautiful alarm tone, and I would not want to fight him. I loved that dog. I was tho only one allowed in (including the dog's owner).
Loved this format!
Do you think there’s a pretty good chance it’s really just there to allow the dealers to get $140 profits on keys?
Bingo 👌🏻. That’s how they get you
I dont believe that. Locksmiths charge higher because of the cost of software and hardware required to copy/program keys. Manufacturers are trying to keep cars from being stolen and as always, engineers make things more difficult than need be. The "right to work" issue is very real though.
I ended up getting a 2019 Hyundai Kona SE that still used an old fashioned key ignition. I look at this video and think to myself: that was the best purchase I've made in a while
Hey JR I have a 03 jeep grand Cherokee looks like the one in this video. Crank no start I have checked and test crank and cam good to go have gas pressure engine just rebuilt by me so compression should be good/ a buddy said maybe ECU have nothing but a plug in diagnosis it said code 1389 for jeep all wires look good no blown fuses? what is next?
I see you are a man of taste, nice fluke 87V!
WELL My brother had a similar problem, after going to two different dealers and several weeks of frustration had a older mech come back from vacation and found his problem.. it turns out there is a module located under the pass side head light, had to cut a hole in that area to access it, that is part of the immobilizer system, Not on any wiring diagram supplied by the local jeep dealer. He only knew about it because back in 2004 he attended a class in Detroit where they told them of this module and that is was not going to be recognized in any factory publications. Replaced that piece, covered by warranty by the way, car started and has been flawless for the last 4 years..
I don’t know anything about the Chrysler system, but Could it be that the transponder chip inside the key is bad? So no matter what you do it’ll never work because the transponder chip isn’t working correctly you know the things to go bad if the keys original and it’s been around forever there’s a good chance that perhaps that chip is no good anymore I’m not putting out a signal are not doing what it supposed to do so no matter how many times your program it and do this and that it’s not gonna work I think you just need to give up and get a different key or just suck it up and take it to the dealership I guess right? Does anyone agree with me on this or is that not possible.
Did you try unplugging the maf to see if that's the issue?
For the GM resistor keys, as the lock cylinders got worn/and so did the keys me and a friend usually bypassed ours by cutting the cable going to it and putting in a resistor between the two wires so it was always given the correct value. luckily it was always in an easy position to get to and only took around 30min to do
Had the same problem, turn key forward, then push accelerator 3 times. Turn key off, then it should start. It worked for me, 99 grand Cherokee
Isn't the grey key just for opening the Jeep? I'm pretty sure it isn't chipped.
I bought my 23 year old truck a couple years ago, and wanted to buy a remote for it. Local place mom and pops place wanted 80 dollars. Oriellys wanted 60. I bought 2 off Ebay for 5 bucks and programmed one myself. This is the way it should be.
Yep... I have two corvettes a 92 and a 96 , I have found out if you turn on the key and the motor won't turn over, just turn off and on the dome light switch and then it will start.
Had an ignition housing switch replaced on 2010 ford escape. Kept the same ignition cylinder with original keys. Vehicle cranks but no start. Had someone put scanner on vehicle and it showed immobilizer. Any ideas?
This is JR telling me how an immobilizer is easily defeated and doesn’t deter car theft and he has been baffled in defeating it… 😂😂😂
I'm just interested in buying a dodge durango that has only one thing wrong with it. The owner lost the key somewhere. Money is tight and I can't just go out and buy something like a programed key or ECU. Will the car run if I just unplug the SKIM from the column?
It won’t, will just crank, start, die
@WatchJRGo well shit, thanks tho
I need help deleting immobilizer on my 2001 audi a6 Quattro. How do you do these cars?
It was starting before my instrument cluster fried up, installed a junkyard one but doesn't let it start. How can I bypass this?
Nice video! My car does not start when you turn the key to fast..When i wait a few seconds it starts. But i have a fault code Immobiliser No signal. Any idea??
So I have a mclaren and sometimes it fails to work with my key. I switch ecu’s due to one is a stock ecu and another one is tuned for track use. Can I just remove the immobilizer from my mcalren to avoid issues?
Jr i had a ongoing imobiliser fault with my fiat in the Uk several garages tried new keys programed new halo ring ,was told ecu or Bcm at fault could not delete imobiliser turned out to be the Bcm at fault .
Started watching your YT channel since last year and i love your videos, big fan of your work
I just purchased a current generation Ford I’m definitely getting spoiled by that 2 way smart key not to mention Ford pass on my phone. That GM VATS system brings back memories I used to cut and copy them all day long back in the day when I worked at a rental company. Biggest 🤬 back in the day was having cut keys from the code by hand with the little key code cutting tool, I had about a 50/50 success rate with them.
I seen something like this problem on KB MOTORS on TH-cam. The video is called “ I bought a $400 mystery jeep that won’t start” Hope this helps you. Check the video 13 minutes in. That’s where he starts getting into how to solve the same problem your having. Hope this helps JR.
Can you help? My dad passed away and his motorhome has a fob separate from a key and I can’t find the fob. No idea what aftermarket make it is. The fob stayed in place with Velcro. I need to bypass or remove. 1999 fleetwood American dream motorhome.
I bought a 97 XJ for $500 because the owner had done some electrical work that caused problems for the ECU. Long story short I finally pulled the Body Control Module out and discovered that I could start the Jeep and run it with no problem. Now, there are no gauges or lights, but this was enough for me to be able to move the Jeep around while working on another truck.
This is a little different than the typical WatchJRGo video, but I really like it. Very informative, thanks JR 👍
I liked it too, and he is really doing well at explaining automotive repair.
Did u figure the problem out? Is ut the starter relay alram sytem killer?
What is the part number for that oil cap that you use for the jeep I need one
TK's Garage has several videos on how people can steal late model Chrysler and Dodge cars.
A hidden switch is the best choice, the more you delay a thief the less likely he is to steal the car.
For that style of immobilizer you can just pull the ecu, ignition key, ignition cylinder, and the immobilizer halo ring that surrounds the ignition cylinder from the junk yard vehicle. You then install all those parts in your car and make a buch of cheap $6 spare keys at Walmart and then tape the key with the chip near the immobilizer halo ring inside your steering column and you are good to go.
How do I buy the jeep from you for my mom? She needs a tall car that's easy to get in and out of. Thanks
I just recently learned that it's pretty easy to program many early to mid 2000s GM vehicles with a chip key. If you have at least one functioning key, you place the already programed key in the ignition and turn it on to the run position for 5 seconds. Then turn the ignition off and quickly put the new unprogrammed key in the ignition and put it in the run position for 5 seconds. Boom, you have a newly programed key.
If you ever loose all your keys, you have to put the new key in the ignition 3 times in the run position. You place the new key in the ignition and turn it to the run position and wait for ten minutes. After about 10 minutes, the security light will go out. You then repeat this two more times and if everything was done correctly, your key should be programmed. The only down side to this is that it will erase all the previous keys. So if you find your original one(s), you'll have to either throw them out or reprogram them if it's possible.
For what years? I had a bunch of codes for Ford key fobs.
They were different for different models of the same year.
Pain in the butt to look up but easy to program. They rape you on the charges. Doesn't take three minutes.
early 2000s toyotas are the same way.
@@robertlee9395 I'm not to certain on the exact year and model ranges, but for my model of vehicle, the Pontiac Aztek, it works for all model years. The video that I looked it up on, it looks like the guy was doing it on a late 2000s GMC/Chevy pickup. The only thing I was angry about when I learned this method, is that's how the locksmith programed the key. His tablet was having a hard time communicating with my car's computer, so he did it the way I described above. So I was a little salty that I paid someone $90 to do something I could have done, but I also didn't know that was possible. I was always told you had to use a computer to program the key. But what was cool about it, the guy showed me how to do it in the future so if I need to ever reprogram a key I know how. And then I found all the videos online on how to do it as well.
My 96 cougar had a ford installed anti theft system. When the module went bad the starter interrupt relay would not work. The starter would not engage at times, thank God I wasn't in a bad area. I bypassed it for the remainder of the ownership. I saw a 90s Tahoe that had a failed gm pass lock system. 9 times out of 10 a manual transmission is a theft deterrent.
My thought is get the ecm out of the vehicle the engine came out of. I realize it don't make sense but have seen it happen before and it worked
The early gm vats was simple yes, but also time consuming to bypass. See 15 variances in ohm value but you have to wait 5 minutes between attempts from one value to the next if the last one was your winner you have an hour and a half invested in determining the needed value.
I bought a 2009 Volvo V50 recently and the buttons on the key/remote all in one thing didn't work, but the key would start the car. So I had to pull out the physical key to unlock the doors which set off the alarm. It was annoying. So I called a locksmith and they couldn't program. Had to go to the Volvo dealer who said the key needed to be replaced. A new key (not including even the emergency physical key blank, let alone a cut key) cost me $460. I've had the immobilizer antenna fail on me on top of a mountain in my 2001 Mazda B3000 when I was out of town on July 4th weekend. I couldn't source a part (even tried the junkyard) and had to take it to the dealer who charged about $200. At least with that truck it's easy to program. I got some new keys for it recently and had them cut and then programmed them myself. Same with the remotes when I first bought the truck.
Cherokee Ronnie has a video that might help
You know any thing about a 1999 Toyota 4runner SR5 deleting the immobilizer ?
The best keyless entry remote is the one with a movement sensor, if the key isn't moving it won't open the car, that slows down the "Relay attack" from your keyfob to the car
I've owned 3 WJs and worked on numerous more and never had this issue...but on my 95 zj which has a similar key I was experiencing the same issue. The drivers side key cylinder had a 2 wire electrical connector attached to it by disconnecting and jumping that harness I was able to bypass the security and drive the jeep without issue.
JR's "story time!" Love this type of video now and then
Try feathering the throttle peddle like you would for an old carburetor car. I have a 2004 Grand Cherokee and any time the battery goes really low or dead the first start up requires me to manually run the throttle. I take it for a 1/2 mile drive and the computer relearns the idle mixture.
I doubt I’m telling anything new but I disabled the immobilizer on a pt cruiser by unplugging the module under the dash. It also disables the horn and electronic locks but it means a running vehicle.
Immobilizers have/DO eliminate thefts.
What can you tell me about disabling 97-03 f150 pats system
Absolutely love the insight into your work done off camera. Great job and I am sure you will solve the SKM issue.
Continue troubleshooting. You'll get it. How's the Mercedes sage going?
This is why I horse and buggy everywhere
Well..the ones that had a jack kind of key..didn't need any resistance. There were two telays on the oc board. Ckose both telays and the car starts. Or you can just bridge out the relays
Technically,I did go to a hardware store to get my 07 GMC Sierra ignition key copied. Ace Hardware charged me $80 for the program key. It took the woman who did it 3 tries. And she thought she did something wrong on the 3rd one when the truck wouldn't start at first. But within 10 minutes the ECU cooperated and that's been my main key for 3+ months now. Ace hardware was definitely cheaper than the dealership doing it.
Excellent video Jr. !
Your optimism prevailed! Awesome personality
Cycle key does not mean start it… it means turn it off and on again..
when I LS my TJ I sent everything to a guy in west Australia as he fixed the issues.. not a lot of jeeps over there but he fixed it… this was back in 07 on a 06 TJ
1:31 I had an electric fuel pump on my '72 GMC pickup that had a hidden switch under the dash. The truck really was a POS, but where I lived they got stolen for parts all the time. Was great until I let my brother pick it up from the shop for me and did not tell him about the switch. He only got 1/2 a block then had to call me for help.
Sort of like giving my brother my PU for a trip to pick up something out of state only forgot to give him my key to the gas cap.
I had a similar problem on a Vauxhall van it wouldn't recognise the factory key chip I was told to buy a new chip from Ebay and programme that and it worked first time. My only problem now is the check engine light is on there are no codes and I can turn the light off but if you turn the key off and on it's back.
Keys and remotes are dead - and should be. All you need is your mobile phone + app (and backup card). Tesla has done it and perfected it and everyone will (try to) copy them. I have not touched a car key or remote for YEARS! Love it!
I think the mess of the headlights wiring harness has something to do with why you don't have low beams.