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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 8 ก.ย. 2017
- BMW e39 FSU Unit Replacement Tutorial
In this video i show you how to replace / repair the BMW 5 series heater / blower fan resistor, or as BMW call it final stage unit - FSU.
The problem started when my BMW e39 5 series blower fan started to act up. The fan was only working for the first 5 minutes and then it stopped. usuall the faulty part is the final stage unit fsu / blower fan resistor.
Replacement of fsu is pretty much easy, you just havo conquer some exotic joga positions when pulling the fsu out of your BMW e39 5 series :)
Music credit:
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Thank you my friend, you are a Rock Star!!! I followed your video exactly for my 2000 528i and it worked, AC is back on : )
So happy that you could find this video helpful! Thank you for your comment !
Would have taken me forever to figure this out without your vid. Thanks!!!!‼‼‼‼
used this as one video to learn how to do this job, fixed the problem and it all went back together again, thanks very much!
Thank you for your feedback! Me and my little apprentice are happy the video was usefeul to you :)
In my 2003 530i, the blower fan & AC quit working. Replacing the FSU/Blower Resistor restored operation to the blower fan & AC. I found using a '45° Bent Nose Long Reach Pliers' essential in both clasping the release tabs on the plastic electrical connector to remove it along with gripping the failed FSU while I gently pried down on the plastic tab with a long flat bladed screwdriver to gently move the plastic securing tab downwards to remove the FSU from its mounting location. The sticky gasket on the FSU makes it difficult to remove from the plastic ductwork. During reinstallation, it may be easier to connect the electrical connector first then use the 45° Bent Nose Long Reach Pliers to position the FSU over the two small plastic guide pins while pushing the unit back into the ductwork opening with the plastic handle end of a long screwdriver. The locking black plastic retaining tab should engage the FSU to ensure it is fully inserted and retained.
Thank you. Hope you and your son are well. Appreciate the help.
Thanks Boss, installed mine in 5 minutes
Glad you found it useful!
thanks a lot for this video. I resolved my problem for low cost
Great to hear that! Thank you for your comment!
Thankyou fixed my problem ❤️❤️
Happy that my video helped you!
Thank you. Excellent explanation, especially good video.
Thank you! Happy you find it useful!
Helped me really much❤️ thanks!
Makes me happy when i see this!
Thank you for the video. If my wrists could twist in unnatural positions it would have been easy, but your video showed how to do it with human power.
Thank you :)
I had to sit on the ground facing the rear of the car to install it. Haha
Thank you very much for the video it really helped me PS: too cute the little apprentice mecano
Thank you! He is always willing to......mess around :)
güzel video bugün işime yaradı.türkiye eskişehir den selamlar teşekkürler.
Videonun sana yardımcı olmasına sevindim.
Thank you for the video. I hope to try this on my 1997 528i and get some heat!!
Thank you! Yeah i had one cold winter so i know what you mean :)
Yeah same here. Happened on winter 😃
Thank you fixed my problem
Happy l could help and that you did this video useful!
Thank you very mutch fixed today
You are welcome! Glad i could help!
Thanks for a great video
Thank you for your comment!
Thank you bro
You are welcome!
Took mine out. Jumped the blower: it works. Put a little conductive grease on the connector pins. Fixed. Next time it'll take me an hour instead of two.
Yeah once you know the screws and the hand twist to get it out, it gets easier :) Thanks for watching.
The new fan resistor that you put in, has different shape of the old one you taked off. I have the same issues. The same shape in the old one and the same shape in the new one like yours. How did you manage to fit he new one in the car hole? Nice job of yours.
Thank you.
I just cut off the prongs that were in the way :) I basically shaped it to fit in the hole. Good eye!
What does the DSC and PDC buttons do when pressed? i never can find that awnser online. but ty for the video about to replace my part now. had to watch how to release the old one.
DSC is a button for Dynamic Stability Control and if you press once the traction control will go off and if you press it for 10 seconds all stability systems are off. PDC is Park Distance Control and the button is for switching the sensors off - when you are reversing with a bike rack on tow hook or trailer it stops the annoying beeping. Glad you find my video helpful!
@@A3T thank you for all your information 🙏
Thanks for the video, sir I have a Problem with my E39 528i 97... The interior fan doesn't stop after I turn off and the air is really hot, I removed the blog to stop, but I really need help if you have any idea.
Thank you
It is usually is the FSU. Remove the fuse for the fan to stop draining your battery.
Thank you very much........👍👍👍
You are welcome! Glad i could help!
Are there no screws holding the FSR. Thanks
Yes there are two screws holding it.
Hi there... My ac is not showing anything on screen but blows air into the car... Do you think is that resitor problem?
Well the resistor fault only results in problems with the fan, not the display itself. Maybe you have a problem with the HVAC unit.
but im sure you forgot your pollen filters. owing to the fact they restrict all the air flow
Hi, thanks for vid, God bless your kid also, I have a question pls, in my e39 528i, sometimes the blower just doesnt start, I drive to shop, everything working good, then after shopping for 30min, get to my car, all foggy from setting in cold parking, then after 10 min or 5 sometimes, it kicks in, while am waiting for the defog to work and allow me to see and drive, so in short words, the blower just starts randomly, could this be the problem, I wish its not the blower it self,thanks for reply, thumbs up
Hello. Thank you for the comment. Well i had exactly the same problem, so my bet should be on the FSU.
@@A3T Thank you very much
Hi mate, what make is your new one? Looks similar to my new one (Mahle), with more prongs on it. But im struggling to put the new one in. Is yours a Mahle?
I had a cheap replacement part and i had to cut some prongs to make it fit. I didnt put that part in the video, because i though if you buy a better part you wont have this problems. I Guess not.
@@A3T Thanks for the quick reply bro
It’s shitty parts like these that make such nice cars a nightmare to own. This should be a recall. I’m looking to get an e39 but it has the same problem. If it’s the resistor, no big deal. But if the blower is gone, need to remove the whole damn dash. No way I’m going through that. Beautiful cars though, the nicest designs bmw had during these years across all the models. Thanks for the video.
Thank you for your feedback! Yes i also love the e39. It has something that newer cars dont. For me the dealbreaker was the problems with rust. Would like to get my hands on e39 M5 :)
When on auto, my car starts blowing too cold and too much air after about 10 minutes of driving, it's like the car thinks the temperature in the cabin is too hot. The airflow gradually increases. When I start increasing the temperature, it starts blowing less. Could this also be the FSU ? Thanks!
I don't think it is the FSU. You should check two things: 1. Interior temperature sensor (IHKA) and 2. Outside temperature sensor...... The sensors in the IHKA are probably the problem, as they may give the wrong cabin temperature information. The fans inside the panel suck the air from the cabin and usually get stuck with lint so there is no more air flow. You should check that. if there is any onther problem with the sensors you should hook it up to INPA and read the fault codes. The outside temperature sensor one is easier to check, as you can see it on display and you can check it out easily if it is showing the right temperature. If you see problems there, it is mounted on the passenger side, at the bottom of the front bumper - you can easilly damage the wires when parking over the high curb and backing out. Hope you find your problem!
@@A3T I'll check the IHKA panel and perhaps replace it, the outside temperature sensor is working like it should. Thanks!
Check if you have enough coolant in the tank and make sure the system is bled properly and has no leaks. it can also be the temperature regulator flaps behind the dash. Scan it to see if any codes come up.
mine does the same
Did you fix it?
I have working FSU and fine contact, but already 2nd FSU is being melted down in contacts. I heard, that it could be caused by faulty blower, what is taked too much Amps. How do you think? How I can diagnose that? I don’t want to change working blower and do this much work without being sure that it is causing this melting FSU contacts.
I would first check the wires on the connector and the connector itself, as they might be causing the problem. Then i would buy quality FSU unit from Valeo/Sitronic. You should also ask an electrician if he can measure if the blower is really taking too much amps.
@@A3T Connector has been resoldered, but the same result - melted contacts. Yep, I would like to measure how much amps blower is taking, but don’t know how to do it. No sense to buy other fsu right now as i think it will also melt. You think that melting could be caused by worse quality fsu?
Is it the same for the e38??
Should be similar, but can't say it is the same...
Is this suppose to be like the fuse, but a big one?
This is a resistor not a fuse
Is there a fuse for the heater blower? Cuz all of a sudden my blower just stopped working?
my fans are not working at all, do you think its the resistor or do I need to change the fan engine ? bought the car like this
Usually it is the resistor. You can try the fuse also.
@@A3T it was the resistor, working perfectly now
my fan does not rotate please help it docent blow any air out any tip
Well you probably have the same problem....did it ever stopped working sporadically before it completely stopped?
well I haven't got it started but my friend told me to check the resistend
In my 2003 530i, the blower fan & AC quit working. Replacing the FSU/Blower Resistor restored operation to the blower fan & AC. I found using a '45° Bent Nose Long Reach Pliers' essential in both clasping the release tabs on the plastic electrical connector to remove it along with gripping the failed FSU while I gently pried down on the plastic tab to remove the FSU from its mounting location. The sticky gasket on the FSU makes it difficult to remove from the plastic ductwork. I used a long flat bladed screwdriver to gently move the plastic securing tab downwards to free the FSU. During reinstallation, it may be easier to connect the electrical connector first then use the 45° Bent Nose Long Reach Pliers to position the FSU over the two small plastic guide pins while pushing the unit back into the ductwork opening with the plastic handle end of a long screwdriver. The locking black plastic retaining tab should engage the FSU to ensure it is fully inserted and retained.
Hate it when they don't say the size or type of the srew 😠
Will take that into consideration for further videos. Thank you!
Waiting to see how to put it back in, ooops it wasnt put in the video...
Thank you for your comment......hope you still managed to get it in without extra explanation..... :)