We had hydraulic problems with our 3040. Replaced the pressure relief spring. Found scoring in the low pressure pump and two valves damaged in the main pump. 100% now. My son is a mechanic and you fellas earn your money. Great video. Thank you for posting.
I did indeed Tim. It gets regularly serviced and filter was as it should have been. Originally a few years back the filter was not changed by a previous owner and it eventually blocked up, collapsed and was sucked up through the system and ruined many parts on the way. Took a long time to get it all flushed out and cleared. We are in a better place now. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Running the remote valves like that is the quickest way to ruin the main pump. That juddering sound and the vibrating pipe is cavitation, because the transmission pump can't keep up. Anything you run off the remotes must be closed circuit plumbing.
Yea 100 percent true and I agree fully, but this has been a problem a long time with it and if that’s a problem when all is done I will rebuild it too. The issue is with these old Deere’s and most machinery is that you must carry out as many tests as you can to make sure you have found every angle and possible issue before you open them up. They can be a nest of problems and serious money to repair certain parts on them. I had limited choices to be able to do the tests on the tractor since the transmission was damaged and the tractor was at risk of serious damage if it was driven around too much. Thanks for the comment, it’s a very knowledgeable, valued opinion and hope it helps others. Thanks again👍🏻
@@connormcmahon3724 I've also got a 40 series, so I feel your pain :-D. Just taking a wild guess at the hydraulic issue, with the lift arms and steering, I'd say the problem might be in the priority valve.
Hello. I have a John Deere 3650 and I recently rebuilt the transmission. I changed discs, plates, o-rings, rubber rings from the hi low case, I also changed the pump in the transmission, I put a new one but it's on the aftermarket, I changed segments on the power take-off absolutely everything. I have problems with the steering and with the arms on the back, it is hard to lift and turns with knots. If I remove the cover from the gearbox and connect the two pipes between them with a hose, the steering works perfectly and with the arms on the back, when I put the cover on, the steering and the arms on the back no longer work. What could be the cause? Thank you! 
A major internal oil leak or a broken shaft to your internal oil pump. Even a very bad internal oil pump would still pump some oil up to the front reservoir. If you drive it you will end up with serious harm done to the hi Lo and everything else after that.
@@connormcmahon3724 just put manometer in the main pump and low pressure when tractor still cold show just below 5 but after a while when oil gets warm go down to literally 0!! Wtf!!!
@@catalin-vasiledinu9244 The casing on the front of the gearbox must come out about 150mm with all the shift rods still connected. This is to allow the shafts be removed. When you pull back the casing with the selector rods attached the selector forks need loosened off and will fall off. Take note of everyone of them and mark them. I presume you have taken off the lift cover?
@@connormcmahon3724 I lifted the cover and saw two other E24 screws, I` ve managed to remove it, I identified the worn seal and took it out, i am waiting for the parts to come and i will put it back together, Your clip was very useful, thank you!
Hola, el 4x4 se activa mediante un interruptor eléctrico, este desactiva un solonoide hidráulico en la parte inferior de la carcasa del 4x4. Cuando el paquete hidráulico no tiene presión de aceite, se acopla y activa el 4x4.
Do you have any weights spare for one of these. I’ve a 3140 myself but she’s struggling uphill with the double bale handler and even the power box. I’m tired of going up backwards haha
No but they are expensive to buy, around a pound/euro a kilo! You might be lucky to find some but I doubt it. They make a huge difference on hills for sure!
Great video i have a quastion do you now where the speed hour meter going from the instrument panel to something that i dont now.? i have a 3130 john deere
@@victorm.351 lift the floor mat and then the cover plate to access the HI LO cover. As you move the lever over and back to activate the hi lo, you should be able to see the linkage moving on the cover. It’s possible it has broken off or there’s wear on it and needs adjusted to give it enough travel to move the actuator lever
@@connormcmahon3724 I removed the hydraulic block. The cylinder operated by the lever is slightly damaged on the end. I have now ordered a new one for this along with the spring. could this be the only cause of the hilo not shifting do you think? (That is why the lever you operate it with was very stuck?) Or do you think there could be another problem?
@@victorm.351If there is damage then yes there could be another problem that needs to be addressed. Sounds strange. If the aluminium cover is damaged then it will also need replacing. If there is any damage on any of the parts in there then things won’t work as they should. If the tractor used to go into hi and lo with the lever and suddenly it stopped then there is a problem. Otherwise was it someone else caused the problem?
Hello. I have a jd 3350 and there are 2 levers on the cover of the HI-LO. The one on the left is connected to the hi-lo command, but the one on the right has a role?
@@connormcmahon3724 Thank you very much! In Romania it is very difficult to find mechanics on this model, which is why I have to learn on my own. I hope to find someone to fix my hi next year. My hi-lo just goes on the rabbit. The press sensor lights up on the frog.
If there are issues with that and you are still driving it, you can end up causing a lot of damage to the tractor. John Deere are very expensive for parts so you don’t want to be spending money you don’t need to!
Greetings from Romania! My John Deere 3040 started leaking very badly in front of the drive shaft who goes into the steering pump. It s very very bad ,until i got home it leaked over 30 litres. Is it a seal in the steering pump that popped? I searched on Deere parts,it looks like there is a needle bearing,an o ring and a seal,in this order from inside out of the pump. I was thinking of fixing it ourselves to save some money,i cant see anything else around that coupling that may leak. Thanks in advance for any advice!
I take it you mean the high pressure pump that’s on front of the engine? If so there is a full rebuild kit you can buy for them and you should be able rebuild it yourself as long as you are careful to take everything apart piece by piece and record how it all came apart.
@@connormcmahon3724 I mean the hydraulic pump in the front of the radiator . The pump that activates the steering cylinder. It s a Danfoss type pump,i don t know how to put it better. I should be ok if i change the needle bearing,the o ring and the seal. About 70 USD repair if i do it myself. Thanks alot!
That’s your High pressure hydraulic pump that runs all of your main services, lift arms, remote valves, Steering and trailer brakes. Yes buy a rebuild kit but I would advise taking it off first and opening it to examine it. Sometimes parts break inside the pump and can leave it unrepairable. Goodluck!
@@connormcmahon3724 Yes,you are right! I thought at first it is dedicated for the steering only,but it has exits that deal with the functions you mentioned! Thanks alot,i hope this helps other people too!
@@connormcmahon3724 Hi,Connor! I have installed the rebuilt pump on my 3040 last night. Lifting and steering normally,but i think the pump runs a bit noisy. Is this normal, considering every component was replaced? Can you please tell me where do i connect the gauge to get a correct reading on the pump pressure settings? Thank you very much!
Bonjour, le volant de mon tracteur john deere 3140 est coincé et le bras de relevage aussi . Que faire chers techniciens ? Quand je mets l'huile hydraulique directement dans le bocal au dessus de la pompe, les 2 appareils ( volant et bras de relevage) reprennent leurs fonctions correctement. Mais quand l'huile finit dans le bocal, ils cessent de travailler. Vos orientations s'il vous plaît
Hola , siempre me fisura la caja del filtro hidráulico las bomba interna envía presión asta las tapas de las palanca de cambio donde tiene algunas válvulas esta válvulas los que regula las presión de bomba interna? De un jhon Deere 3140DT
Hello nice work. I do the same work on my 2650 but when I shift to Hi the pressure drops. I changed all gasket and rings on FWD, PTO and Hi Lo, and all O-rings on pipes. Now I want to check the pressure. Do you know what is the thread on the cover?
Hi, sorry I got a loan of the gauges I used so I’m not sure. There is a small bung with a 5 or 6mm Allen key head on it in the side of the cover. If you take this out and take it to a local hydraulic company they should be able to find it for you. It’s small and possibly a metric fitting and a fine thread I think so it’s not very easy to find. Goodluck 👍🏼
Nice video 👍, but i have a question. I have a jd 3650 and when i try to turn 4wd on the front wheels arent spinning at all but if you get them in the air somehow you can see them barely moving, do you know what could be The problem
Need to check to see if your 4wd Solonoid is working. It’s on the bottom of the tractor on the 4wd belly cover, protected by a small bracket. You can switch it on and go underneath and unplug the wire off it and tip it back on it while listening to it to see if it’s clicking. Then if your still in trouble you need to check the oil pressure from the small bung beside the solonoid. You could have a 4wd clutch pack worn out or needing resealed. After that the only thing that I could think of is the front axle. There are plates in the differential and they can slip if the wrong oil is put in them. Hope this helps and thanks for watching! 👍🏻
hello, the steering wheel of my john deere 3140 tractor is stuck and the lift arm too. What to do dear technicians? When I put the hydraulic oil directly in the jar above the pump, the 2 devices (steering wheel and lift arm) resume their functions correctly. But when the oil ends up in the jar, they stop working. Your directions please
Bonjour, it sounds like the scavanger pump or transmission low pressure pump in the botto. of the tractor is not pumping so you could have a problem with the pump. There also could be a major internal leak or a reason why the pump is not running. This could be a problem with the drive to the pump either. I would advise you test the pressure on the shift cover or even open the screw to see if oil comes out when you run the tractor. That will tell you if you need to open the tractor up.
Not sure what you mean by that but I think you mean on the hi lo shift cover!? You can use the JD online parts catalog to find what your looking for 👍🏻
Great video! I've got a 2950 where the Hi no longer works. When you flip the shifter into Hi nothing happens except for a bad side affect in that you loose hydraulic pressure. The steering starts to fail, loader controls no longer work, etc. and the low pressure warning lamp comes on on the dash. Flip the shifter back to Lo and everything is fine. Any thoughts on what/where to dig into?
So in Lo you still have all hydraulics? Sounds like a major leak internally, you either have blown seals in the hi lo pack or a leak from the shift cover I would replace all seals on the shift cover first and inspect it for cracks etc. That’s the one thing you can do before splitting the tractor. There also could be an internal metal pipe that has split or blown out. If you could check the pressure on the shift cover that will tell you if you are getting enough oil pressure on the low pressure side from the scavenger pump. It should maintain no less than 140psi when oil is up to temperature. Sometimes they can be difficult to diagnose and the only way is to test the circuits to see which one is loosing pressure. Goodluck
Not entirely sure about your question but from translation I think you are asking what the cost of a transmission is? Also most parts are Stil available but most are very expensive and not realistic to buy.
@@connormcmahon3724так питав за ціну сателітного блоку що ви вийняли хоча приблизно. В взагалі на вашу думку якщо вибирать між моделями джондіп або клас чи кейс. Рік випуску приблизно 1996-2000 який є самий доступний у ремонті
@@The_sigmaissofia69 you will have to get the hydraulic circuits pressure tested by the sounds of it, it could be a lot of different things. Make sure the hydraulic filter was changed in it too, can destroy the tractor if it hasn’t been looked after.
@@connormcmahon3724 I have such a problem, I have a John deere 1140 86r, when switching on the gear, the lever that activates it puts quite a lot of resistance, previously it was touching. After unscrewing the cover, there is oil in the chamber from the half-run, and the adjacent chamber from the shaft is dry. Should it be like that ?? I have no way to attach a photo here
Sorry i cant fully understand your translation. Can you send me a username to one of your social media accounts and I will send you a private message. Thanks
@@ryanmcbrien4281 Well Ryan, yes if you check the selector leavers and rods that leave the cab you should be able to see where the connect to the gearbox. Check that one hasn’t popped off or something simple like that. Excessive wear on them generally can cause you to get stuck in a certain gear. Park the tractor safe so it won’t roll and get underneath her, get someone else in the cab to start moving the shifter to see where it’s connected and go from there. There can be a very rare case of them getting stuck in gear internally on the selectors should they come loose but start with the basics first. 👍🏼
@@connormcmahon3724 thanks Conor, yes we have done that, wear doesn’t seem to be an issue, not slack at all, the very first rod u can see underneath, doesn’t seem to be clicking at all, rest as free as a bird, have you an email or contact number for handiness please?
@@ryanmcbrien4281 Right right, sounds internal. It’s difficult to send you details across this. Add me on Fb if you want, where you from and I can accept you that way or something?
We had hydraulic problems with our 3040. Replaced the pressure relief spring. Found scoring in the low pressure pump and two valves damaged in the main pump. 100% now.
My son is a mechanic and you fellas earn your money.
Great video. Thank you for posting.
Thanks for watching
Thank you for putting that on that's where my problem and my tractor is at and hopefully this will help fix it
Great video keep them coming on her
I hope you checked for a stopped up hydraulic filter.
I did indeed Tim. It gets regularly serviced and filter was as it should have been. Originally a few years back the filter was not changed by a previous owner and it eventually blocked up, collapsed and was sucked up through the system and ruined many parts on the way. Took a long time to get it all flushed out and cleared. We are in a better place now. Thanks for watching 👍🏻
Excellent channel really interesting just Subscribed 🚜🐄💪
Running the remote valves like that is the quickest way to ruin the main pump. That juddering sound and the vibrating pipe is cavitation, because the transmission pump can't keep up. Anything you run off the remotes must be closed circuit plumbing.
Yea 100 percent true and I agree fully, but this has been a problem a long time with it and if that’s a problem when all is done I will rebuild it too. The issue is with these old Deere’s and most machinery is that you must carry out as many tests as you can to make sure you have found every angle and possible issue before you open them up. They can be a nest of problems and serious money to repair certain parts on them. I had limited choices to be able to do the tests on the tractor since the transmission was damaged and the tractor was at risk of serious damage if it was driven around too much. Thanks for the comment, it’s a very knowledgeable, valued opinion and hope it helps others. Thanks again👍🏻
@@connormcmahon3724 I've also got a 40 series, so I feel your pain :-D. Just taking a wild guess at the hydraulic issue, with the lift arms and steering, I'd say the problem might be in the priority valve.
Yes I haven’t stripped it yet but it’s exactly what I was thinking too, think it might be sticking. Stay tuned 😉
@@connormcmahon3724 Just watched your latest vid, with the crap in the priority valve - result! Happy new year.
@@Brad-lt6mrtal ale moze byc orbitrol kierownicy lub przednia pompa. U mnie wszystkie problemy znikly po wymianie przedniej pompy
very good, from Romania
Savage job Connor.
Thanks Eddie, not finished yet 😂 Stay tuned👍🏻
Hello. I have a John Deere 3650 and I recently rebuilt the transmission. I changed discs, plates, o-rings, rubber rings from the hi low case, I also changed the pump in the transmission, I put a new one but it's on the aftermarket, I changed segments on the power take-off absolutely everything. I have problems with the steering and with the arms on the back, it is hard to lift and turns with knots. If I remove the cover from the gearbox and connect the two pipes between them with a hose, the steering works perfectly and with the arms on the back, when I put the cover on, the steering and the arms on the back no longer work. What could be the cause? Thank you!

exactly same issues on mine, wondering why the oil deposit that supplies the main pump is completely dry
A major internal oil leak or a broken shaft to your internal oil pump. Even a very bad internal oil pump would still pump some oil up to the front reservoir. If you drive it you will end up with serious harm done to the hi Lo and everything else after that.
@@connormcmahon3724 just put manometer in the main pump and low pressure when tractor still cold show just below 5 but after a while when oil gets warm go down to literally 0!! Wtf!!!
Did you know The Hi LO planetary gear on the 3140 must be timed using the timing marks? that maybe why it broke in the first place.
Yes that’s correct Frank, it is a possibility, I also suspect it not being shimmed properly. I have the rebuild video coming soon, stay tuned👍🏻
@@connormcmahon3724 Hello, i'm having trouble separating the gearbox from the transmission, what do i do after i open the top of the gearbox
I've watched the video many times and i don't see if there are other screws except the ones from exterior
@@catalin-vasiledinu9244 The casing on the front of the gearbox must come out about 150mm with all the shift rods still connected. This is to allow the shafts be removed. When you pull back the casing with the selector rods attached the selector forks need loosened off and will fall off. Take note of everyone of them and mark them. I presume you have taken off the lift cover?
@@connormcmahon3724 I lifted the cover and saw two other E24 screws, I` ve managed to remove it, I identified the worn seal and took it out, i am waiting for the parts to come and i will put it back together, Your clip was very useful, thank you!
Buenas noches, una pregunta? Que mecanismo activa la 4x4 se hace por medio de palanca mecanica o electro valvula, un saludo desde colombia
Hola, el 4x4 se activa mediante un interruptor eléctrico, este desactiva un solonoide hidráulico en la parte inferior de la carcasa del 4x4. Cuando el paquete hidráulico no tiene presión de aceite, se acopla y activa el 4x4.
@@connormcmahon3724 gracias papa porla información un saludo desde colombia
Do you have any weights spare for one of these. I’ve a 3140 myself but she’s struggling uphill with the double bale handler and even the power box. I’m tired of going up backwards haha
No but they are expensive to buy, around a pound/euro a kilo! You might be lucky to find some but I doubt it. They make a huge difference on hills for sure!
I’ve been looking for some for a while now, your right, they cost a fortune but they make the difference alright! Cheers!
Great video i have a quastion do you now where the speed hour meter going from the instrument panel to something that i dont now.? i have a 3130 john deere
Goes to a magnetic pick up sensor on the front of the engine timing gear cover.
@@connormcmahon3724 thanks
I have a john deere 3140 and the hi wil not activate. It stays in low what do you think could be wrong?
@@victorm.351 lift the floor mat and then the cover plate to access the HI LO cover. As you move the lever over and back to activate the hi lo, you should be able to see the linkage moving on the cover. It’s possible it has broken off or there’s wear on it and needs adjusted to give it enough travel to move the actuator lever
@@connormcmahon3724 I removed the hydraulic block. The cylinder operated by the lever is slightly damaged on the end.
I have now ordered a new one for this along with the spring. could this be the only cause of the hilo not shifting do you think? (That is why the lever you operate it with was very stuck?) Or do you think there could be another problem?
@@victorm.351If there is damage then yes there could be another problem that needs to be addressed. Sounds strange. If the aluminium cover is damaged then it will also need replacing. If there is any damage on any of the parts in there then things won’t work as they should. If the tractor used to go into hi and lo with the lever and suddenly it stopped then there is a problem. Otherwise was it someone else caused the problem?
@@connormcmahon3724 yeah it was damaged when i bought it. (the aluminium cover isn't damaged;
Hello. I have a jd 3350 and there are 2 levers on the cover of the HI-LO. The one on the left is connected to the hi-lo command, but the one on the right has a role?
The one on the opposite side is for the PTO
@@connormcmahon3724
Thank you very much! In Romania it is very difficult to find mechanics on this model, which is why I have to learn on my own. I hope to find someone to fix my hi next year. My hi-lo just goes on the rabbit. The press sensor lights up on the frog.
If there are issues with that and you are still driving it, you can end up causing a lot of damage to the tractor. John Deere are very expensive for parts so you don’t want to be spending money you don’t need to!
Greetings from Romania!
My John Deere 3040 started leaking very badly in front of the drive shaft who goes into the steering pump.
It s very very bad ,until i got home it leaked over 30 litres.
Is it a seal in the steering pump that popped?
I searched on Deere parts,it looks like there is a needle bearing,an o ring and a seal,in this order from inside out of the pump.
I was thinking of fixing it ourselves to save some money,i cant see anything else around that coupling that may leak.
Thanks in advance for any advice!
I take it you mean the high pressure pump that’s on front of the engine? If so there is a full rebuild kit you can buy for them and you should be able rebuild it yourself as long as you are careful to take everything apart piece by piece and record how it all came apart.
@@connormcmahon3724 I mean the hydraulic pump in the front of the radiator .
The pump that activates the steering cylinder.
It s a Danfoss type pump,i don t know how to put it better.
I should be ok if i change the needle bearing,the o ring and the seal.
About 70 USD repair if i do it myself.
Thanks alot!
That’s your High pressure hydraulic pump that runs all of your main services, lift arms, remote valves, Steering and trailer brakes. Yes buy a rebuild kit but I would advise taking it off first and opening it to examine it. Sometimes parts break inside the pump and can leave it unrepairable. Goodluck!
@@connormcmahon3724 Yes,you are right!
I thought at first it is dedicated for the steering only,but it has exits that deal with the functions you mentioned!
Thanks alot,i hope this helps other people too!
@@connormcmahon3724 Hi,Connor!
I have installed the rebuilt pump on my 3040 last night.
Lifting and steering normally,but i think the pump runs a bit noisy.
Is this normal, considering every component was replaced?
Can you please tell me where do i connect the gauge to get a correct reading on the pump pressure settings?
Thank you very much!
Well good job did u ever get her fix
Video is on the way, very busy so didn’t get the chance to upload it. Yes she’s all fixed now! Stay tuned!
Was there I vibration up though the cab with a bit off revs on
@@sean333331 No, nothing more than normal
Bonjour, le volant de mon tracteur john deere 3140 est coincé et le bras de relevage aussi .
Que faire chers techniciens ?
Quand je mets l'huile hydraulique directement dans le bocal au dessus de la pompe, les 2 appareils ( volant et bras de relevage) reprennent leurs fonctions correctement. Mais quand l'huile finit dans le bocal, ils cessent de travailler.
Vos orientations s'il vous plaît
Wymien zawor priorytetowy przy filtrze lub go wyreguluj
Hola , siempre me fisura la caja del filtro hidráulico las bomba interna envía presión asta las tapas de las palanca de cambio donde tiene algunas válvulas esta válvulas los que regula las presión de bomba interna? De un jhon Deere 3140DT
Hello nice work. I do the same work on my 2650 but when I shift to Hi the pressure drops. I changed all gasket and rings on FWD, PTO and Hi Lo, and all O-rings on pipes. Now I want to check the pressure. Do you know what is the thread on the cover?
Hi, sorry I got a loan of the gauges I used so I’m not sure. There is a small bung with a 5 or 6mm Allen key head on it in the side of the cover. If you take this out and take it to a local hydraulic company they should be able to find it for you. It’s small and possibly a metric fitting and a fine thread I think so it’s not very easy to find. Goodluck 👍🏼
@@connormcmahon3724 thank you. I figured out yet. It is M12x1.5.
Nice video 👍, but i have a question. I have a jd 3650 and when i try to turn 4wd on the front wheels arent spinning at all but if you get them in the air somehow you can see them barely moving, do you know what could be The problem
Need to check to see if your 4wd Solonoid is working. It’s on the bottom of the tractor on the 4wd belly cover, protected by a small bracket. You can switch it on and go underneath and unplug the wire off it and tip it back on it while listening to it to see if it’s clicking.
Then if your still in trouble you need to check the oil pressure from the small bung beside the solonoid. You could have a 4wd clutch pack worn out or needing resealed. After that the only thing that I could think of is the front axle. There are plates in the differential and they can slip if the wrong oil is put in them.
Hope this helps and thanks for watching! 👍🏻
hello, the steering wheel of my john deere 3140 tractor is stuck and the lift arm too. What to do dear technicians? When I put the hydraulic oil directly in the jar above the pump, the 2 devices (steering wheel and lift arm) resume their functions correctly. But when the oil ends up in the jar, they stop working. Your directions please
Bonjour, it sounds like the scavanger pump or transmission low pressure pump in the botto. of the tractor is not pumping so you could have a problem with the pump. There also could be a major internal leak or a reason why the pump is not running. This could be a problem with the drive to the pump either. I would advise you test the pressure on the shift cover or even open the screw to see if oil comes out when you run the tractor. That will tell you if you need to open the tractor up.
In the beginning of the video there was two green circles on top of the gearbox what are they called?
Not sure what you mean by that but I think you mean on the hi lo shift cover!? You can use the JD online parts catalog to find what your looking for 👍🏻
Great video! I've got a 2950 where the Hi no longer works. When you flip the shifter into Hi nothing happens except for a bad side affect in that you loose hydraulic pressure. The steering starts to fail, loader controls no longer work, etc. and the low pressure warning lamp comes on on the dash. Flip the shifter back to Lo and everything is fine. Any thoughts on what/where to dig into?
So in Lo you still have all hydraulics? Sounds like a major leak internally, you either have blown seals in the hi lo pack or a leak from the shift cover I would replace all seals on the shift cover first and inspect it for cracks etc. That’s the one thing you can do before splitting the tractor. There also could be an internal metal pipe that has split or blown out. If you could check the pressure on the shift cover that will tell you if you are getting enough oil pressure on the low pressure side from the scavenger pump. It should maintain no less than 140psi when oil is up to temperature. Sometimes they can be difficult to diagnose and the only way is to test the circuits to see which one is loosing pressure. Goodluck
Part 2?
Get a chinese diesel heater 8 kw well worth it thanks for the video
How is that part called
Яка ціна сателітного блока в зборі і чи є запчастини до старих джондірів 1986
Not entirely sure about your question but from translation I think you are asking what the cost of a transmission is? Also most parts are Stil available but most are very expensive and not realistic to buy.
@@connormcmahon3724так питав за ціну сателітного блоку що ви вийняли хоча приблизно. В взагалі на вашу думку якщо вибирать між моделями джондіп або клас чи кейс. Рік випуску приблизно 1996-2000 який є самий доступний у ремонті
please change your setting on your recent 3 videos to "not made for kids" so viewers can comment on them.
Thanks, didn’t realise that!
buenas tardes disculpe la molestia pero alguien tendrá el Manual de uso y de mantenimiento
Iv a 3140 with link arms lifting when not ment to
Are they lifting on their own without moving the lever?
@@connormcmahon3724 yes you could be driving along and ther could be vibrations and the arms be up and then you would go to lift loader it would drop
@@The_sigmaissofia69 is the loader working ok?
@@connormcmahon3724 yes can be a bit shakey but when the arms are up we don't have it
@@The_sigmaissofia69 you will have to get the hydraulic circuits pressure tested by the sounds of it, it could be a lot of different things. Make sure the hydraulic filter was changed in it too, can destroy the tractor if it hasn’t been looked after.
Hi, can I contact you somehow ???
What would you like to ask🙂
@@connormcmahon3724 I have such a problem, I have a John deere 1140 86r, when switching on the gear, the lever that activates it puts quite a lot of resistance, previously it was touching. After unscrewing the cover, there is oil in the chamber from the half-run, and the adjacent chamber from the shaft is dry. Should it be like that ?? I have no way to attach a photo here
Sorry i cant fully understand your translation. Can you send me a username to one of your social media accounts and I will send you a private message. Thanks
Hi
В нас ціна такого джондіра 3150 від 16000- 21000 доларів
Have a 2650 jammed in gear , can u contact me conor
@@ryanmcbrien4281 Well Ryan, yes if you check the selector leavers and rods that leave the cab you should be able to see where the connect to the gearbox. Check that one hasn’t popped off or something simple like that. Excessive wear on them generally can cause you to get stuck in a certain gear.
Park the tractor safe so it won’t roll and get underneath her, get someone else in the cab to start moving the shifter to see where it’s connected and go from there.
There can be a very rare case of them getting stuck in gear internally on the selectors should they come loose but start with the basics first. 👍🏼
@@connormcmahon3724 thanks Conor, yes we have done that, wear doesn’t seem to be an issue, not slack at all, the very first rod u can see underneath, doesn’t seem to be clicking at all, rest as free as a bird, have you an email or contact number for handiness please?
@@ryanmcbrien4281 Right right, sounds internal. It’s difficult to send you details across this. Add me on Fb if you want, where you from and I can accept you that way or something?