I have to say, i never comment, however, that was the absolute most comprehensive and informative video I have ever watched. you are a great teacher and a professional in your field. outstanding Job! Look forward to seeing more of your videos.
@@onewayt simple. You pack the in side of the well casing with a fire proff blanket. Then grind it clean an bevel it ready for welding a new peace of steel casing on. I do it all the time. You don't want shit going down the well. You drop one peace of steel down a drilled well. If it ever needs to be drilled deeper. The drillers bit be screwed up right off the bat.
Nice informative video. Thanks. Three suggestions … for fun: (1) Put bolts upside down in the Baker bottom ring and nuts on top. This way you can see if the bolts are loose or nuts fall off then the bolt drops giving you a visual to replace or torque the nut. A box end on the bolt head will hit the pipe and hold the bolt head for using a torque wrench on the nuts. “Ya don’t need no precise torque” one might say … but when the home owner sees you using a torque wrench you are ‘selling’ professionalism. Always torque the nut not the bolt head to give real torque and proper bolt stretch for the designed clamping force especially when you want equal forces on all bolts on a compression coupling type seal. (2) Put a small amount of food grade grease (silicone) to catch any drilling chips or grinding sparks where you can easily wipe the grease out with the contaminants ‘caught’ when done. Loading the hole saw with grease may help save the core from falling in on other jobs. (3) Not so much for this job, but rather for instrumentation or pressure switches: I do not allow Teflon tape at all anywhere as good rule to follow. The tape strings can get into instruments or cover a small pressure gauge or switch port that is internally only a few thousandths of an inch diameter to limit the volume of spray should the gauge bourdon tube rupture. Teflon tape is not allowed in your toolbox in the oilfield for this reason.
The only difference in South Texas the well mechanics seem to tape the wires every ten feet to the pipe to avoid the wires slapping against the pipe when the pump is turned on, good job.
I need to convert my old Jet pump to a Submeraible and need to extend Casing so what do I use to chlorinated the well and how long should you run the tap to clear before drinking? Just did a water test and well is perfect so you are saying chlorine ate cause of stuff that might have fell and contaminated on the new pipe and motor?
Nice video, I have to do the exact same upgrade to my well. We just purchased the property and the well is from approximately 1974. Unfortunately I have to locate it first ☹️. Certainly concerned we could have a failure and have no idea where to start digging!
Here in north western Ont. Canada if a pump has a check valve in it witch is not often unless I can't get the brand I use. The check valve is removed. It one more thing that will fail when it 40 below an 7' of snow.. when they fail 9/10 it jams closed an pulling the weight of that 1.25" long pipe full of water. The only check valve that needed is the one at the presser tank. When that's closed no water ever go back down the well due to the vacuum from that check valve holding it can't get air to let it go back. But soon as you pull the pitiless the well line drains out fully making a 300' lift a 1 man job. That low water cut out on the presser switch should reset at 20psi an only take 4 to 6 seconds to do.. if it higher then 20psi it replaced. It a safty so if well went dry the pump don't burn up. He'll how can you get the pump to pull 100 amps a 1/2 an 3/4 hp pump runs on a double pull 15amp breaker. That should trip. I keep a good stock of capasitors on had saving ppl over $175 for a new control box when it alway just the capasitor. Boy I sure wouldn't be showing a customers home that you taken wires a part at presser switch that don't have Bx cable. That romex is not legal out in the open. Once you touch it you are liable an must redo it. Must be armored by or in side a metal conduit. I notic none of the wells you do are ground bonded back to the main pannal with a #6 stranded bare copper to well caseing for lightning . It code here. I sure don't like all them well pits. I would never touch one with out digging it up an welding an extention on above grade. Someone get sick after you had your hands in there an show Bacteria now in the well your sued. I never touch one with out fixing it welded solid. No fitting with a rubber seal on pitted rusted pipe is never going to seal . You weld it solid. You have to really watch today an the last 25 years. Soon as your hands are put on something you are liable
My exact problem. Mine well cap is buried about 2-3ft. Has been for 20 yrs. I’m always worried about how someone is going to access that well and service pump if it’s January and -20 below here in N Minnesota. This looks like the fix I need. Will a local well driller sell me this extension collar and casing? Or do I purchase on my own? Great video!
Yes, the supply house will sell you the coupling. I'm doing the same project as we speak and I'm not licensed. The well casing was a little bit harder to find but everything else seems readily available
Just be aware that you have to install the Baker coupling below the frost line, which for you will be 54”. It might be better to hire someone to extend it with a welded coupling rather than digging down six feet and cutting the casing off.
good video... I am contemplating a fix for a 2 line jet pump replaced with a submersible well pump ,however; I was thinking of using p.v.c. , extension above ground . A pit less adapter in the existing well casing with a drain valve in line ,several feet down to keep it from freezing in winter months . Does this sound doable.
GREAT VIDEO, never seen a well depth sounded like that. Why is pump down so deep at 268' and well at 298' when water is at 28'? That's a LOT of reserve water.
It all depends on the yield of the well. They may have drilled and set the pump deeper because the inflow rate of water to the well, or the yield, is slow. In that case a static reserve in the well is needed to ensure the well doesn't run dry. The yield of any well changes throughout the year and will depend on rainfall.
Can I ask would would a job like this cost to do? Nothing exact, just a rough cost. I have the same type of well, but it has concrete section rings. Its always filling up with water under heavy rains.. Plus this is an upgrade I should have done very soon.. Thank you. Your video was very informative...
Unfortunately I have shallow bedrock above the frost line, so we can’t use a baker coupling on our well. I’ve got a guy coming next week to extend it with a welded coupling.
Wow a cast well casing coupling.. under ground .. cast an stèel ground water good mix.. most likly costs $200 cnd just for the coupling.. when these steel casings are hammered into the bed rock with a weld on rock sealing shoe that's hammered into the bed rock to seal out ground water. Each 20 foot of caseing is v out an welded together. As each 20 foot peace of caseing added is welded same thing when we have to extend a caseing because the grade been lifted it welded on as well. Cant use any kind of coupling an what for? Welded is by far permanent an strong this seems like a total short cut but so costly when every other joint been welded when installed why would you extend using something diferent.. cast an steel mix under ground is asking for problems years down the road. Why do every you tuber doing this why to they use hose clamps on the pipe? They are not made to clamp heavy wall poly pipe we must use 3/4"x0 for 25 stanless steel band clamp witch are installed using a band tool an you hit the lock with a hammer that drives a center punch into the band lock to lock the band an it cuts off the extract strap clean right at the slide with no sharp edges no stripping of gear like on hose clamps as there is none.. the piece of culvert pipe should have been removed before backfield I pity the next guy. Also under electrical code here in Northwestern Ontario Canada all connections in the well must be done by heat shrink if wire nuts are used a watertight junction box must be used on the outside of the well casing. You cannot have exposed wire nuts in any situation
To get below ground water and then it depends on the yield or inflow of water to the well. Sometimes if the yield is good they only drill to 120 feet, other times the water and good flow is further down, say 600 feet. Topography can make a big difference in all of this too, ie. being in a valley vs on top a hill.
I hate you didn't actually show all of closing up the well with the cap. I had to go to some other site where they showed using the pit less adapter installation and removal tool. (pump side)
I can't believe you used 2 wire cable for a 3-wire pump! Never use a green or green yellow wire as a power conductor! By far the biggest mistake of the job. At a minimum you should return and tape at least 6" of the green wire with yellow tape on both ends.
I worked around industrial piping and pipe filters for 40 years or better. Leak lock and Teflon tape should not be used on the same joint. Chain wrenches are for rotating lagged pipe not pipe wrench jaws in that put flat spots in the pipe. Get a clue or keep getting negative feed back.😢
Why would you use a stupid cast iron coupler that most likely cost over $200 plus a threaded 8" pipe when every 20' of caseing when installed was welded solid. Just prep the old an new pipe an weld the thing.. nothing like cast iron to steel with a rubber seal to fail an leak ground water in.. this is why I never use a contractor to do a job. Even heavy eqipment I rent an do the job right. I seen how contractors installed well pumps an complet system an shotty as he'll. I did all my own an for many others. Even when I do all my electrical the inspector tells me I do a far better job then most contractors do
I have to say, i never comment, however, that was the absolute most comprehensive and informative video I have ever watched. you are a great teacher and a professional in your field. outstanding Job! Look forward to seeing more of your videos.
That was very professional, I am sure metal sparks going down isn't a problem at all.
Ok ya want to explain how your going to smooth that pipe lip down without grinding. while standing in a round hole?
@@onewayt simple. You pack the in side of the well casing with a fire proff blanket. Then grind it clean an bevel it ready for welding a new peace of steel casing on. I do it all the time. You don't want shit going down the well. You drop one peace of steel down a drilled well. If it ever needs to be drilled deeper. The drillers bit be screwed up right off the bat.
Nice informative video. Thanks. Three suggestions … for fun:
(1) Put bolts upside down in the Baker bottom ring and nuts on top. This way you can see if the bolts are loose or nuts fall off then the bolt drops giving you a visual to replace or torque the nut. A box end on the bolt head will hit the pipe and hold the bolt head for using a torque wrench on the nuts. “Ya don’t need no precise torque” one might say … but when the home owner sees you using a torque wrench you are ‘selling’ professionalism. Always torque the nut not the bolt head to give real torque and proper bolt stretch for the designed clamping force especially when you want equal forces on all bolts on a compression coupling type seal.
(2) Put a small amount of food grade grease (silicone) to catch any drilling chips or grinding sparks where you can easily wipe the grease out with the contaminants ‘caught’ when done. Loading the hole saw with grease may help save the core from falling in on other jobs.
(3) Not so much for this job, but rather for instrumentation or pressure switches: I do not allow Teflon tape at all anywhere as good rule to follow. The tape strings can get into instruments or cover a small pressure gauge or switch port that is internally only a few thousandths of an inch diameter to limit the volume of spray should the gauge bourdon tube rupture. Teflon tape is not allowed in your toolbox in the oilfield for this reason.
Great video and thank you for sharing!
Good installation pointers along the progress
Liked the video. Now I just need to find my well head so I can get the same thing done. Thanks, again for the video.
Great craftsmanship!
The only difference in South Texas the well mechanics seem to tape the wires every ten feet to the pipe to avoid the wires slapping against the pipe when the pump is turned on, good job.
Great video man, I really appreciate you taking the time to film this and post it on here.
Did you chlorinate the well, or recommend the property owner do so, after the extension was completed?
I need to convert my old Jet pump to a Submeraible and need to extend Casing so what do I use to chlorinated the well and how long should you run the tap to clear before drinking? Just did a water test and well is perfect so you are saying chlorine ate cause of stuff that might have fell and contaminated on the new pipe and motor?
Thanks for the video 👍👍
Great video thanks for information. Were do i get the threaded 6" well pipe i would appreciated it.
Thanks so much, this was super informative.
Nice video, I have to do the exact same upgrade to my well. We just purchased the property and the well is from approximately 1974. Unfortunately I have to locate it first ☹️. Certainly concerned we could have a failure and have no idea where to start digging!
nice job
Great job.
Who is the numnutz talking in the background?
Great work
nice video on doing this upgrade !
Great video very informative and precise thank you
Awesome job.
nice job thanks!!!!😀
Would welding the extension on rather than the threaded coupler be a better way?
I'm a welder by trade but to get down in a pit and weld overhead pipe fitting isn't for everyone.
Here in north western Ont. Canada if a pump has a check valve in it witch is not often unless I can't get the brand I use. The check valve is removed. It one more thing that will fail when it 40 below an 7' of snow.. when they fail 9/10 it jams closed an pulling the weight of that 1.25" long pipe full of water. The only check valve that needed is the one at the presser tank. When that's closed no water ever go back down the well due to the vacuum from that check valve holding it can't get air to let it go back. But soon as you pull the pitiless the well line drains out fully making a 300' lift a 1 man job. That low water cut out on the presser switch should reset at 20psi an only take 4 to 6 seconds to do.. if it higher then 20psi it replaced. It a safty so if well went dry the pump don't burn up. He'll how can you get the pump to pull 100 amps a 1/2 an 3/4 hp pump runs on a double pull 15amp breaker. That should trip. I keep a good stock of capasitors on had saving ppl over $175 for a new control box when it alway just the capasitor.
Boy I sure wouldn't be showing a customers home that you taken wires a part at presser switch that don't have Bx cable. That romex is not legal out in the open. Once you touch it you are liable an must redo it. Must be armored by or in side a metal conduit. I notic none of the wells you do are ground bonded back to the main pannal with a #6 stranded bare copper to well caseing for lightning . It code here. I sure don't like all them well pits. I would never touch one with out digging it up an welding an extention on above grade. Someone get sick after you had your hands in there an show Bacteria now in the well your sued. I never touch one with out fixing it welded solid. No fitting with a rubber seal on pitted rusted pipe is never going to seal . You weld it solid. You have to really watch today an the last 25 years. Soon as your hands are put on something you are liable
cool project- something different
Why no seal between original casing and the adapter, nor between lower half adapter and upper half of adapter
My exact problem. Mine well cap is buried about 2-3ft. Has been for 20 yrs. I’m always worried about how someone is going to access that well and service pump if it’s January and -20 below here in N Minnesota. This looks like the fix I need. Will a local well driller sell me this extension collar and casing? Or do I purchase on my own? Great video!
Yes, the supply house will sell you the coupling. I'm doing the same project as we speak and I'm not licensed. The well casing was a little bit harder to find but everything else seems readily available
Just be aware that you have to install the Baker coupling below the frost line, which for you will be 54”. It might be better to hire someone to extend it with a welded coupling rather than digging down six feet and cutting the casing off.
Cool equipment to easily raise the pump! 3 tires that lock in against the pipe and you motor it up. Where do you get one?
good video... I am contemplating a fix for a 2 line jet pump replaced with a submersible well pump ,however; I was thinking of using p.v.c. , extension above ground . A pit less adapter in the existing well casing with a drain valve in line ,several feet down to keep it from freezing in winter months . Does this sound doable.
good job ! interesting video
Thank you.
GREAT VIDEO, never seen a well depth sounded like that. Why is pump down so deep at 268' and well at 298' when water is at 28'? That's a LOT of reserve water.
It all depends on the yield of the well. They may have drilled and set the pump deeper because the inflow rate of water to the well, or the yield, is slow. In that case a static reserve in the well is needed to ensure the well doesn't run dry. The yield of any well changes throughout the year and will depend on rainfall.
epoxy shrink tubing? where do i get me some of that?
Any plumbing supply house that also sells well pumps and accessories.
Can I ask would would a job like this cost to do? Nothing exact, just a rough cost. I have the same type of well, but it has concrete section rings. Its always filling up with water under heavy rains.. Plus this is an upgrade I should have done very soon.. Thank you. Your video was very informative...
Unfortunately I have shallow bedrock above the frost line, so we can’t use a baker coupling on our well. I’ve got a guy coming next week to extend it with a welded coupling.
I am most likely getting this job done today. What’s the estimated cost?
I have no idea why you would not have put the pitless adapter in there before you screw the pipe in there
How would he know how far the pipe would screw in and, which way it would face? Safest way is to do it after the pipe is screwed in all the way.
well done
Wow a cast well casing coupling.. under ground .. cast an stèel ground water good mix.. most likly costs $200 cnd just for the coupling.. when these steel casings are hammered into the bed rock with a weld on rock sealing shoe that's hammered into the bed rock to seal out ground water. Each 20 foot of caseing is v out an welded together. As each 20 foot peace of caseing added is welded same thing when we have to extend a caseing because the grade been lifted it welded on as well. Cant use any kind of coupling an what for? Welded is by far permanent an strong this seems like a total short cut but so costly when every other joint been welded when installed why would you extend using something diferent.. cast an steel mix under ground is asking for problems years down the road. Why do every you tuber doing this why to they use hose clamps on the pipe? They are not made to clamp heavy wall poly pipe we must use 3/4"x0 for 25 stanless steel band clamp witch are installed using a band tool an you hit the lock with a hammer that drives a center punch into the band lock to lock the band an it cuts off the extract strap clean right at the slide with no sharp edges no stripping of gear like on hose clamps as there is none.. the piece of culvert pipe should have been removed before backfield I pity the next guy. Also under electrical code here in Northwestern Ontario Canada all connections in the well must be done by heat shrink if wire nuts are used a watertight junction box must be used on the outside of the well casing. You cannot have exposed wire nuts in any situation
Who ever put well in should have taped wires to drop line every 4ft or so
I reckon that pump wire will last 12 months before it has to be replaced because it is just loose in the well
Why do they go so deep? To get below saltwater?
To get below ground water and then it depends on the yield or inflow of water to the well. Sometimes if the yield is good they only drill to 120 feet, other times the water and good flow is further down, say 600 feet. Topography can make a big difference in all of this too, ie. being in a valley vs on top a hill.
I see you never taped down the electrical wire, that's a NONO
Sometimes, it’s better not to talk to the guy. Just let him work.😅
I hate you didn't actually show all of closing up the well with the cap. I had to go to some other site where they showed using the pit less adapter installation and removal tool. (pump side)
Tape wire more long piple
Black plastic pipe is not to be used as electrical conduct
I can't believe you used 2 wire cable for a 3-wire pump! Never use a green or green yellow wire as a power conductor! By far the biggest mistake of the job. At a minimum you should return and tape at least 6" of the green wire with yellow tape on both ends.
I would have. Put a clover over the pit then filled it in. To the top. Some one my need to get back in.
Go back and look at the video, try to count the wires, u know 1--2---3
Instead of the excavator yapping his mouth so much he should have dug out that old pipe riser and gave you more room to work down in that hole.
Save money tape wire to pipe every 30 ft
The guys incessant commenting is annoying.
I worked around industrial piping and pipe filters for 40 years or better. Leak lock and Teflon tape should not be used on the same joint. Chain wrenches are for rotating lagged pipe not pipe wrench jaws in that put flat spots in the pipe. Get a clue or keep getting negative feed back.😢
Why would you use a stupid cast iron coupler that most likely cost over $200 plus a threaded 8" pipe when every 20' of caseing when installed was welded solid. Just prep the old an new pipe an weld the thing.. nothing like cast iron to steel with a rubber seal to fail an leak ground water in.. this is why I never use a contractor to do a job. Even heavy eqipment I rent an do the job right. I seen how contractors installed well pumps an complet system an shotty as he'll. I did all my own an for many others. Even when I do all my electrical the inspector tells me I do a far better job then most contractors do
Damn, your helper talks TOO MUCH. Great video though.
..... without audio.