Reinforced Front Subframe Classic Mini Miglia/ Libra Race Car - PT9
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 9 เม.ย. 2022
- Mini Toe Board Kit: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115717570943
Subframe kit: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/115777190720
Support the channel and get early access to my videos with no ads: /
Email: urchfab@hotmail.com
Thanks to my channel sponsors:
xtremeplasma.ecwid.com/
Instagram: /
Facebook: /
Website: urchfab.com/ - ยานยนต์และพาหนะ
Best welder on TH-cam. Go show B is for Build how it's done
I was hoping you would make a dimpling tool for those slotted holes.
Excellent work, Matt. The translation from cardboard to plasma cut shapes was very impressive. The finished result looks very strong without looking bulky or overweight. Thanks for sharing the welding tips along the way. Great to meet you at the NEC, I hope I didn't make too much of a nuisance of myself. Thanks for the nice chat and the sub. All the best, Mart in Solihull.
Cheers Mart.
Depending on what joints your using make sure you can remove the driveshaft inner joints through the holes in the subframe. That way you don't have the mess of splitting boots if you have to swap engines quickly
This would be well worth doing, they’ll need opening out to get the pot joint through.
You use hardy Spicer joints, they just unbolt from the flange
Nice job! I always learn something new from your messing about. If I had a plasma table and a decent sized shop, my wife would think I'd gone missing. Cheers!
I hope your being paid well for this video as I have just watched 18 advertisements through it!!
Fantastic welding and thought put into that subframe.Could watch these type's of video all day.Look forward to the next build video.
First thing that sprung to mind, speaking from experience. Made a steel one piece front and had a box section frame. Many many moons ago.
As always perfect work Matt, see a few comments about weight, I say strength is always better than flimsy.
Good to see CAD (cardboard aided design) is alive and well
Keep up the good work
Shaun
Very neat and high quality work as usual. Excellent 👍👍
Fab and shine automotive both on a Sunday top content remember to watch the adverts please people😍👍👍👍👍
Great to see you break out the proper cardboard CAD mate.
Great work and beautiful finish as usual 👍
Matt you need to read the championship regs, it's a requirement for bracing from crossmember to subframe to replace loss of inner wings. The bracing you've put in the side will also get in the way of taking the flywheel off in situ and make running an electric water pump extremely difficult. There's a reason all our cars are modified the same way mate
Ah, now you've said it I do remember reading that. I'm just trying to do things a bit different rather than copying someone else's work.
@@Urchfab can understand that mate, always nice to find another way of doing it. Just be mindful of the overall weight of the car. If you're going to run a 5 port minimum weight of car and drive must be 670kgs, better to ballast than trying to figure out how to remove it. Weight is a real kicker with the mini's brick aero
@@Urchfab Dont try to be smarter than The guys that do that kind of stuff long before your dad was even born...
"Yeah "i will weld some little here and there" he said and then welded most of the parts mostly in one go..
@@10zoll I find it far more interesting when someone is learning by trying something new and failing, rather than just copying others and not understanding why it works. Keep doing your thing @Urchfab!
Great welding & fab work.
Again excellent workmanship and will make for an extremely safe race car and no doubt you'll easily get around the possible fouling of the bell housing on the sub frame. Another interesting video to watch Mark.
What a great job you have done👍
Wow amazing fabrication as always!
That should be one of the strongest mini subframes.
The only other thing I’ve seen which I thought about doing on mine is to fully seam around the top of the towers where the top cap attaches. Worth doing as you’ve done everything else.
Beautiful work as always. You may have added metal but you took some out too. The braces have cut-outs to save weight without compromising strength in the direction of stress. I may be wrong but I think the added torsional stiffness will surely pay off. 👍
Those were some beautiful cuts on the plasma table!
Great video. Rather than 5mm for plasma templates, space the 2mm out with 8mm nuts.
Awesome 👍🏻😀👍🏽 thanks for sharing about using the hand plasma cuta , as I was thinking of that with a pattern to cut out things as can't afford a big machine, 😀👍🏻👍🏽
Nice work you can run out without the nut if needs be it won’t hurt assuming there’s enough clearance for the end of the threaded shaft
Nice fabrication work my dude
Nice to see you back
Been racing a miglia for a long time, gonna be really hard to get down to minimum weight and it will show in performance. Subframe is overkill. Make lots of holes then weld extra metal in to compensate! The standard subframe is a brilliant piece of design from the get go. Ian.
It would be interesting to see the weight figures before and after modifying. I wouldn’t think some 2mm sheet steel would make that much of a difference
Beautiful Work Brother !!!!
Thanks mate awesome vid. Always learning something new
Excellent, as always!
Great work! Nicely made👍
I wish my subframe could look as good😉
Amazing work... Bravo 👏
Looks great Matt.
Looking good Matt great work as usual beware of rule books and competitors 🙈👍👨🏻🏭
Nice work 👌
Nice work
I can hear a Nuthatch calling outside your workshop.
Nice neat job 2x👍
Nice work 😎
Nice work as usual! :D
Piece of art that 👌
Nice fab work
Learned new techniques.
Lovely work as usual.
For the plasma torch, could a small sleeve be machined up to go over the end, so it has a square profile for when you are cutting out using a jig?
Good idea!
Could have placed a spacer under the template also
Красиво! Удачи в дальнейшем! 👍✌️
Top job man 💪👍
Pleeeeaaaaase make side stands for the car and sell them! Would love getting them, like the ones from Owens fabrication. Sadly they've been kinda impolite. So I don't wanna order them there and would love to support the channel!
I will make some bud. Cheers
Sorry to hear I’ve been impolite ? I am unorganised but I don’t think I’m impolite at all mate
@@owensminigarage hi🙋🏼♂️ it‘s nothing personal, I just had to ask like 5 times to get an answer….
And then got the answer shipping to Germany is stupid… impolite is probably the wrong word sorry
But the client support was not the best….
Goodjob bro.
Good work. Out of interest what drive shafts are you going too be using? If using pot joints (CV joints) on the inner, it's useful to open up the holes in the subframe to make them easy to insert/remove.
Brilliant work Matt, almost like making a “space frame” should certainly stiffen up the front subframe. It’s very interesting watching the modifications all coming together.
Looks like a substantially re-engineered piece. Nice work. Will be interested to see whether you run into the clearance issue you mentioned at the end, and how you overcome it.
TOI tu es un VRAI positionneur Yé Yé
Looks good..
finally! a new video, thank you matt
very nice
Cool great job in design layout, I was thinking you should have your business LOGO somewhere when you are showing it off they can see your business details.
Seems like if a person was to design a Mini today, they would always have the lift off front end. Now you would have easy access to the whole engine.
Excellent job love watching it all come together.
Nice
Hi Matt.
Could you make yourself a little copper sleeve to push over your plasma tip to give you a square end ?
They don't put the milk in the fridge? That doesn't work in Australia lol!
I do not know why you fitted strengthening plates but then cut holes in existing frame🤔
Lock, stock, and 2 smoking barrels. :P
I like what you're trying to do but (having played with fast Minis for nearly 40 years) I can imagine a number of snags with what you've done - in terms of clearance. I strongly suggest that you drop a complete engine (with a rad on it!) into your subframe before you go much further. Also, there are a few jobs which you can do when you have a flip-front, without removing the engine, but which you may be making a lot harder. I would certainly lighten a subframe (they are quite over-engineered) but I would add strength by seam-welding it rather than your approach (although I do like your work).
Super job, when you stitch weld something like that what do you do to ensure you don’t have a rust trap later in the lap between the stitches, hope that question makes sense. Paint won’t go in there but moisture will so I’m just not sure how to deal with that, I’ve been doing fully welded seams where I don’t need to for strength purposes but just to seal it up, I’m sure there is a better way?
I'm sure it will be bent beyond repair before I have issues with rust. Rust through primer in the overlaps and seam sealer afterwards is normal practice.
@@Urchfab thank you, I’ll give that a try, am restoring a road use TR6 and it has me paranoid about rust as I swept up most of it on stripping it!
Hello there. What cutting machine is that? You are very skilled man.
I think the strengthening bars must fix to the bulkhead not the subframe tower......
What is the title of the book you mentioned ( how to build a mini race car ) with the subframe distances ? Where can I get it ?
Cheers
A question: the mask with breathing thingy, what make and where from?
Maybe described and talked about in earlier vid, anyone feel like adding a link then please do so! Thanks!
optrel.us/wp-content/uploads/2021/02/optrel-e3000X-manual.pdf
I think; that is the US link but they have a large presence world wide so finding a local source should not be too difficult. Optrel makes a few variations but I am not familiar enough with them to know which is current or if they are all available and which one to order is best suited. Nice stuff, not cheap.
would it be less work just to replace the front piece once it is tacked to the bench?
and when you get all the fitment sorted will you be adding this kit to your store? I would love to add it to the 62 that I'm piecing together
then again might be a bit expensive to ship to Australia.
Not sure what you mean. Once I have confirmed the engine still fits, I will make a few up to sell. Cheers
@@Urchfab just the lower front panel that you plasma cut the holes in. its a fairly simple part to just replace the entire piece instead of cutting holes in the original one as it is only a few inches of weld at each end. it also opens up the opportunity to add mounts for a sump guard that would also stiffen the cradle.
Any chance you weighed all those speed holes you cut out, I just wonder how much weight you cut out?
Do you sell this subframe kit 🤙🏻 or would you weld it to my subframe if I bring it to you. I am in Devon 👍🏻
I’m just making a few changes to the design but yes I will be selling these soon. Drop me an email through my website Urchfab.com cheers 🍻
isn't it a little destructive not to put water in the plasma cutter?
She still works
Does the rear Subframe need a reinforcement kit?
Paint it cream with a black top and black revo's
Good🌹❤🌹❤🌹
Template too thin.
Weld some washers on the back. Just an idea. Save paying for thick steel..
And God said, let there be CNCs and it was good.
...... LAG
Over the years watching I've always wondered why you don't use weld through primer?
Good🌹❤🌹❤🌹