soooooooo good! the way your eyes lit up reliving Will's amazing Send while speaking with him! far as feeble ilg can tell? you're the best interviewer yet on the kids climbing scene; ty! lmk if you want to do a nostalgic vlog to the hey day of bouldering/climbing during the Golden Era: Boulder, Colorado - late seventies through 80's .. keep crushing!
That V17 finish with voluntary one arm hang and fist pump is the bouldering equivalent of Usain bolt slapping his chest and partying from 60m while breaking the 100m world record.
If spots of time and burden of dreams are both solid 9As, and the rest of the established 9As are only soft 9As, does this mean we are still yet to find a hard 9A that is top of the spectrum in terms of difficulty? I always thought burden was considered to be a hard 9A because it's apparently supposed to be the benchmark 9A I think.
arrival of the birds might be the hardest (at least hard 9A), but we'll see. megatron also hasn't been repeated and even tho ondra graded it v16 all those years ago, terranova also hasn't been repeated. etc
@Claire-ing yeah, arrival of the birds could be the hardest. Not sure if it would be hard 9A though. It could be solid 9A but still be considered to be harder than the other 9As. Maybe a hard 9A would have to be one that is so hard that it takes will bosi 40+ sessions to do. In regards to terranova, I think even if it does get upgraded, it would most likely get a slash grade of 8C+/9A, or soft (or solid) 9A. I cannot remember exactly but I think Shawn said that burden is harder than Megatron so I'd be surprised if this gets given hard 9A.
I think we need a more 9a climbers to come close to establishing this concretely. Right now there is just a couple of guys' opinions based on their very individual styles and strengths.
@@noone-ld7pt Exactly, there are not enough data points currently. Even 8C+ is not yet consolidated. I believe it was a talking point in the Careless tallk climbing podcast that the progression from 8C to 8C+ took such long that the 8C grade became super wide: There are hard 8C's that should probably be 8C+s and when 8C+s started to emerge, some boulders that were easier than some of those hard 8Cs were established as 8C+s. These climbs could well be much harder than some 8Cs, mind you, but not necessarily enough to warrant the +. And like you say, the individual styles make grading even more arbitrary.
@@julesdubi4312 Megatron does have a repeat from Vernon and he suggested a downgrade to V15… I don’t know if he found a different beta or what the hell because Woods and Ruana had been trying it and both confirmed how hard it is…
In my opinion it is because if you don’t have an edge and do it in mid air, the feeling of the motion you do is the same as with an edge. But with nothing for the fingers to push against on a full crimp they curl up. With the open hand you don’t tense any muscles so they look very much like on the rock because the fingers are just dragging on the edges
@Aaron-xq6hv I've been to it. It's the type of bloc you look at it and think why would I want to carry a pad and gear up there and climb it. It's such a small boulder!! However, if you're climbing at 8c to 9a level then I can understand the personal challenge it offers.
Use code ‘STRUGGLE’ for 15% off storewide from Rúngne ▶︎ thestruggleclimbingshow.com/Rungneyoutube2
better question: why is Will in a room with 4 doors and nothing else?
Desk in the hallway I'd assume. Also old building maybe and old buildings can be wonky AF.
door city over here
There are actually doors on the ceiling and floor too.
#britisharchitecture
Welcome to the central hall in an Edinburgh tenement apartment.
Boulders almost always look a lot easier on camera than they are in real life and still this looks like there's nothing he's holding on to.
I've been to the boulder and it's wild. It's not as steep as I expected, but the crux holds are unbelievably bad.
soooooooo good!
the way your eyes lit up reliving Will's amazing Send while speaking with him!
far as feeble ilg can tell?
you're the best interviewer yet on the kids climbing scene; ty!
lmk if you want to do a nostalgic vlog to the hey day of bouldering/climbing during the Golden Era: Boulder, Colorado - late seventies through 80's .. keep crushing!
That V17 finish with voluntary one arm hang and fist pump is the bouldering equivalent of Usain bolt slapping his chest and partying from 60m while breaking the 100m world record.
no
If spots of time and burden of dreams are both solid 9As, and the rest of the established 9As are only soft 9As, does this mean we are still yet to find a hard 9A that is top of the spectrum in terms of difficulty? I always thought burden was considered to be a hard 9A because it's apparently supposed to be the benchmark 9A I think.
arrival of the birds might be the hardest (at least hard 9A), but we'll see. megatron also hasn't been repeated and even tho ondra graded it v16 all those years ago, terranova also hasn't been repeated. etc
@Claire-ing yeah, arrival of the birds could be the hardest. Not sure if it would be hard 9A though. It could be solid 9A but still be considered to be harder than the other 9As. Maybe a hard 9A would have to be one that is so hard that it takes will bosi 40+ sessions to do. In regards to terranova, I think even if it does get upgraded, it would most likely get a slash grade of 8C+/9A, or soft (or solid) 9A. I cannot remember exactly but I think Shawn said that burden is harder than Megatron so I'd be surprised if this gets given hard 9A.
I think we need a more 9a climbers to come close to establishing this concretely. Right now there is just a couple of guys' opinions based on their very individual styles and strengths.
@@noone-ld7pt Exactly, there are not enough data points currently. Even 8C+ is not yet consolidated. I believe it was a talking point in the Careless tallk climbing podcast that the progression from 8C to 8C+ took such long that the 8C grade became super wide: There are hard 8C's that should probably be 8C+s and when 8C+s started to emerge, some boulders that were easier than some of those hard 8Cs were established as 8C+s. These climbs could well be much harder than some 8Cs, mind you, but not necessarily enough to warrant the +. And like you say, the individual styles make grading even more arbitrary.
@@Claire-ingTerranova might be the only real 9a
easy peasy for mr Bosi!
I wanna listen to the full podcast 😢
So… it looks like Terranova is still the hardest boulder in the world ah
Or arrival of the birds! Megatron also hasn’t seen a repeat
@@julesdubi4312 Megatron does have a repeat from Vernon and he suggested a downgrade to V15… I don’t know if he found a different beta or what the hell because Woods and Ruana had been trying it and both confirmed how hard it is…
@ oh really? Do you have his insta or know if there is any footage?
@@julesdubi4312 Iss an april fools joke.
always wondered why when hard climbers are miming crimps, they crumple their fingers into weird crumpled non-crimp-like positions
In my opinion it is because if you don’t have an edge and do it in mid air, the feeling of the motion you do is the same as with an edge. But with nothing for the fingers to push against on a full crimp they curl up. With the open hand you don’t tense any muscles so they look very much like on the rock because the fingers are just dragging on the edges
Will is now working in a burden of doors - it’s all I can think about
Spots of Time looks like one of the least aesthetic climbs ever.
What does that say about the climbing?
@c.bee_345 Basically saying it looks like it climbs sh*t and is a pointless little lowball boulder in the middle of nowhere
@@dave990 Fair enough, though realistically you'll never be able to pull on and find out for yourself.
I disagree. But, luckily you don't need to climb it or go to it.
@Aaron-xq6hv I've been to it. It's the type of bloc you look at it and think why would I want to carry a pad and gear up there and climb it. It's such a small boulder!! However, if you're climbing at 8c to 9a level then I can understand the personal challenge it offers.