Buying A Used Scuba Tank - Scuba Tech Tips: S10E12
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 19 ธ.ค. 2019
- Buying used scuba gear is one way to save money if it's a good deal. Alec shares tips when buying a used scuba tank to ensure it is safe to dive.
Luxfer manufactured 6351 alloy cylinders:
- United States: 1972 to mid-1988
- England: 1958 through 1995
Australia: CIG Gas Cylinders manufactured scuba tanks
from 6351 alloy from 1975 through 1990.
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Make sure your tanks are all still in hydro! Great, informative video as usual!
Hi Alec, First I'd like to say Merry Christmas to you and Kevin. Enjoyed episode used cylinders, aluminium & steel. 🎅🎄🍸👍
Here in the Netherlands we use standard steel tanks. The common size is 10 and 12 liter 230bar (like 80cf 3000psi). All my tanks are second hand and affordable, about 100 euro. I never bought new tanks. Two of my tanks I get it free, It only costs me the hydrostatic testing :-)
Not sure how I missed this video from a couple of years ago. Good information. I actually have a couple of those aluminum tanks that I keep around for no good reason, sentimental I suppose. They only have a couple hundred pounds of air in them, if that, so no threat really. Your videos are always interesting and informative. And as always, Kevin did a great job with the filming too.
Thanks Rick. Kevin and I appreciate your ongoing support and feedback.
Good informative video. Around 7:46, when he says "junk heap", I thought he said "junkie". Awesome.
Sorry about that Santos. Glad you like them with more coming.
Yeah, it's just like with friends don't just judge from outside. Many just look good but they aren't true friends, some may don't look amazing but their charakter are. So if you would just judge how something looks like, you would choose the Aluminium tank. But in fact the used one, is the one you should choose.
I know there are many which looks awesome and got an amazing charakter. It was just a exaple not just to judge how someone looks like.
You clearly get it Ben. Thanks for watching.
A
Thanks for the useful info
Glad it was helpful!
love seeing that ALU vs steel thickness cutout! I knew HP steel are thinner and lighter (and much better buoyancy) which is why that is all I use here in Monterey cold water diving, but that's is really quite different! Whoa. thanks for the vid. All my tanks are used by the way (
Steel and Alu tanks are actually similar in weight. The aluminium ones have a lot more metal in them for the same internal volume. Here are details for 2 of mine: Faber 12.2 litre: 13.7kg,
Luxfer ali S80 11 litre: 14.3kg. So if they were the same volume the steel tank would actually be about 2kg lighter. But it's the Alu one that's more buoyant because of its much larger external volume/displacement.
@@timgosling6189 > Faber 12.2 litre: 13.7kg,
Luxfer ali S80 11 litre: 14.3kg. So if they were the same volume the steel tank would actually be about 2kg lighter.
2kgr is a lot! and you didn't mention the working pressure of those tanks - the amount of air is actually what matters to us (I assume 3000psi for the ALU and 3442PSI for the steel if they match what we have in the US) making the difference even BIGGER.
But agree the buoyancy is even bigger.
I ran the number for HP 80 steel (worthington, similar to faber) vs standard 80 ALU and combined the saving was almost 10lbs (once you add the lead needed for same buoyancy). I put all the info on the "Steel vs Alu" video Alec posted a while back...
Needless to say I only own HP steel tanks... (80/100/120)
Alain Dumesny I’m in San Jose. I dive Monterey! That’s awesome!!!
+ Alec Peirce Scuba. Great vids Alec. I just picked up 2x steel 72's ( last test 2006) with Jvalves. The valves are smooth as silk . Why do you not recommend using the old valves ? Thanks, Mick
Nice to make door bells out of them!
Hi, Alec. Thank you for the video. It was really good to know these hints. What do you do if I have aluminium cylinders to test them for SLC?
First check the year and brand of the tank. Check it was not from the period I show where SLC was a problem. Take it to your local dive shop for hydro and VISual testing. It it passes both, its safe to dive.
Here in Nevada, I won't pay more than $30 for a tank that is not in hydro or vis. If it has a VE stamp I walk away. If the seller wants to pay for the hydro and vis, then I'll reimburse him for it if the tank passes.
Alec! Quick question for you. I’ve been offered a new regulator for sale at a very reasonable price by a seller who bought it 7 years ago planning to dive, but ended up never using it. Scubapro M11/R395. I’m considering buying it as it’s a lot less than buying the latest Scubapro MK11 version, but is this a bad idea?
Buy it!!
Good reg; good model; easy to service.
It'll last you years.
Alec
@Alex do you a video as how to read the numbers/ letters on a aluminum and steel cylinder? How to understand their marking that is
Not yet as that information varies by country (North America vs Europe) and the maker. May add it to my list but a Google search will get you everything you want to know by tank maker.
I bought 6 steel 72s for $150(USD) total. 4 are more modern (valves, 3/4 14) and pretty much rust-free inside. All are "USDivers."
2 of them have the smaller (1/2 NPT) pillar valves and a bit of rust. 4 out of 6 isn't bad for that price. Might trash the super old ones unless I can find a better deal on the 1/2 NPT valves (XS has them for $100). Will tumble or whip and then go for vis and hydro before filling. Good video, as always.
You scored a good deal. Many of my vintage scuba friends are finding it hard to get 72's in usable condition. Good shopping sir.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter well, as usual, you provide a great sanity check for my adventures.
@@AlecPeirceScuba_SeaHunter oh...and I also got 3 sets of straps to make some doubles. :)
do you know if was ever any problems reported with the 6351 alloy after 1990?
6351 Alloy is the problem, at a chemical level it is inherintly weak and has been replaced in high pressure cylinder manufacturing with 6061 alloy which does not suffer from SLC. All 6351 tanks regardless of age will no longer be filled by most dive stores.
@@peterjulianphotos4659 i understand that but there are tanks with 6351 made after 1990
Alec, What is the metric equivalent of the aluminium 80 tank in Litres which is what we use in Australia. Merry Christmas Alec to you and your lovely wife.
Catalina S80 (11.1 litre, 80 cubic foot), 207 bar - The S80 is the benchmark 'Standard Aluminium 80' cylinder used by the majority of recreational sport divers worldwide.
Mr. Pierce. I purchased an aluminum tank through Amazon. I anticipated the tank to arrive painted white. The tank arrived pink. I talked to my local dive shop about painting over the pink with Flex Seal paint. I think the flex Seal paint would help in mounting my tank to the B.C.D. (Reduced slippage). The dive shop warned me about acidic paint corroding the metal. I checked for warning labels on the paint can; but found no indications or warnings.your thoughts on painting over the glossed finish paint using Flex Seal? Yea👍, nay👎🏻? Your opinion is appreciated.
Well a pink tank is Kevin's favourite colour!! Repainting any tank is risky as the metal expands/contracts/temperature, salt/sun, etc, etc, can ruin the repaint and sometimes the tank itself. See this article from Luxfer on paint removal.
www.luxfercylinders.com/support/paint-strippers-for-aluminum-cylinders
Alex what about the rust in steal tunk is it dungours?
Any rust, oxide or debris inside a tank can be dangerous as its possible to inhale into the lungs. That is why tanks should never be fully empty, alway leave about 10 bar or 150 psi in the tank to keep contaminates outside.
Thanks for this video. I am just starting out and buying my own gear and tanks are the last item I need. I was wondering if maybe used was a god way to go as opposed to new- especially since I am looking at steel 100’s.
Thomas Weismantel steel 100’s are the best on earth.
@@garrettstevensen2467 yes I have a bunch and they are the same size pretty much as ALU 80! I also have a 120 I use on boat hunt dive (don't get as good fill and use air a lot more covering as much ground as possible). Otherwise 100s are my go to.
What are your thoughts on buying a used regulator?
personally that is the ONLY part I bought new (everything else used, 3rd drysuit new as that was custom fit) as it cost $100+ to get 2 pieces serviced (more for octo/computer) and I was able to buy new old stock for close to that price (and modern reg). I figured I would use it 3-5y (I do about 40 dives a year and do basic service) and get new one again and keep old as backup or play in the pool, which I recently did.
if you think about it that is the most critical part in diving - first and second stage.
Steel tanks need annual hydrotesting in Australia
Everyone country has its own rules. Canada and the USA are 5 years hydro with annual visual check. Sometimes you have to force divers to be safe.
Alec
I bought my single 15L steel tank in the south of the UK few monts ago for 20gbp, I need to hydrotest it as is not vaild last year
Why not just buy a new tank every 5 years? They're cheap enough
not really.. and very wasteful too. While the alu 80 can be had for $180 (+viz from a local shop) it's only an extra $35 for hydro (actual 50 which includes a viz), and steel HP tanks are much more expensive $300-350. They can last 30+ years if taken care off.
@@alaind831 not wasteful if you get a great deal on my used tanks!
@@MrZachalewel Let me know when you are getting ready to sell.
@@alaind831 Most hydrostatic tests are outsourced to one company that does them for all shops in the area which is why they are still affordable. Visuals are usually done in shop.