I have been buying tools from auction that come from Home Depot. Had a combo Drill/Impact kit (new customer return). One of the batteries was dead. Checked the cells and they were all close to 0 volts. Jumpered the cells with a good battery. Voltage came up but still flashing Red/Green on the charger. Repeated this 2 more times; voltage was now about 16 volts across all the cells. Still no good. But now getting all 4 LEDs flashing 4 times when the button is pressed. Jumpered J1 and T1 as per this video on a PBP003 battery. It has the same electronic board as in the video. Pressing the button now yielded a single LED. Put in on the charger and it is charging fine. Thank You for the video and the great explanation!
100% Awesome. I had done the jump start and had voltage in the cells, but the charger still indicated a bad battery. I assumed there was a safety on the circuit board but had no idea how to reset it until I found this. It worked like a charm. Thank you!
Thank you, just did this to a battery that's been sitting for over a year. It was reading 16v but wouldn't charge, did your trick and now it's good again.
Outstanding my friend! My battery is a 3AH so the jumper spots were smaller and a little harder to find. But once I found them and followed your instructions- bam! Light reset and charging like normal. Thanks my guy!
@@MikesManCave I should have done that first, but I decided to disassemble them. At the end I tampered with the battery and thinking I have voided the warranty.
Sometimes Ryobi customer support doesn’t even want the old “defective” battery back when they send a replacement under warranty. That’s when you can try to revive the “defective” one, after you have the warranty replacement in hand.
Thank you so much, Larry. my Ryobi battery 18v 4ah working again. I got another 18v with 6ah. I will try this method. Again, thank you so much for your video tutorial. 😉
I do battery rebuilds and this trick only works reliably if you have good battery cells that somehow became unbalanced. Unless you remove each cell from the pack, there is no way to measure for bad cells as all you'll get is the average voltage across the entire battery pack. So on the 4AH 10x cell pack, you can have 9x cells that are 4.2V with 1x reading 0V. That will give you an average of ~19V or ~3.8V per cell, which will look good when measuring with a volt meter. However, you'll never get to 21V as the charger charges each cell bank. Sooner, rather than later, that pack will show the same error again. The right way to fix these packs is to tear them down, test each cell, and replace any defective ones. It's a pain and requires some skill and special tools.
Soldered a red wire on the positive and a black wire on the negative. Melted two indentation on the back end where I can thread the two wires separately. Closed the cover, and viola! no need to ever open it again. I just have two short wires (so they never touch) I can tap with pins connected to a 12v while on the charger. 😀
i think you only need to bring the negative lead to the outside since that is the one interrupted by the BMS. Then charge the battery up to some safe level with a voltage supply. The positive terminal of the battry pack is always connected to the OEM (+) tab... i don't think it is usually interrupted. ...I guess your way is a bit different since you are maintaining 12v from another source while using the ryobi charger for the initial charge?...... I think the video on here is possibly even another senario where the BMS has to be reset..... There are probably a few different RYOBI boards
@@unionse7en From what I understand you just have to bring the voltage up so that the charger can get triggered when you insert the battery into it. Battery tend to get fully discharged especially after a winter season where it mostly sit in storage. So far so good. At least I never have to worry about security screws again.
Thank you for the instruction! I have the same problem (all 4 check LEDs flashed 4 time), cannot be charged. I used the same method to reset the battery by following your instruction exactly. However, after reset, the problem was still there. Any suggestions? Thanks
Sorry it didn't work for you. Does your battery look exactly like the one in the video? Are you sure you found the correct contact points (T2, J1) to short? You may have a bad cell, check the individual cell voltages to verify they are good. You might also charge each cell individually and then try again ( be careful to make sure you have polarity correct when charging). Good luck with it!
I have been trying everything to get this battery to recharge. I pulled it apart and checked the actual cells and everything was fine. But the part that goes into the charger read zero. Your video is the one that showed the resetting of the battery. it got to cold. Thank you.
You should have about 18 volt if all the cells are good. If you have 18 volt at battery pack but nothing (or very low) at tool terminal then it could be a bad triac, they are the big three lead transistors with an aluminum heat sink on the end of the battery. They are electronic switches to turn the power on. TH-cam will have videos on how to check them. Hope you get it going!
@@tonylofu1970 There are plastic plugs covering torx security screws. You need to remove them to access the screws. Harbor freight has a security bit set if you don't have one.
Thanks for the short-out instructions Larry, but you glossed over that you have press in the top of the two squeeze-tabs to release the case top affer removing the screws.
Hello, very interesting and informative video. I have a P191 3.0Ah battery with the same symptoms, but I could not find a similar reset on the circuit board. Is there any other way to reset this battery? Is it a good idea to totally discharge the battery and try to charge it back (maybe it will reset it)? Thank you in advance.
I'm not familiar with that battery so I don't know where the reset would be on that battery. If you totally discharge battery and the voltage goes below a minimum value the charger will refuse to charge it. Sorry not much help.
Hi Larry, I have the exact same battery with the same issue. Battery was fully charged, and the charger shows a solid green light as expected. However, the tester button flashed 4 time and no power is outputting. Opened it up and tested the batteries as shown and getting about 20 volts. Tried the reset jumper, it flashed all 4 LEDs then flashed only LED number 2 and 4 during the jump reset. Am I missing something or is this batter gone?
Hi, I looked at your video of fixing the 18 volt Ryobi battery.. my battery green light all four lights keep flashing constantly and won't stop. What can I do in this case? Thank you
mine did the same and I followed the video, keep in mine, the wires you need are very small, I found a head phone plug in and used them, I did need to use a lighted magnifying glass which was nice. It came back after they were shorted with 2 lights on and I plugged it into a tool and it worked.
Dear Larry, Working on ryobi pbp005. About 17.5v inside battery and only 0.5v at tower. All batteries show approximately 3.94 except two that read 2.11v I jumped the t2 and j1 but no sucess still blinks and not charging. Please guide me foward as I am determined to make it work again. Thank you for a most helpful tutorial, and all the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
Could be a bad triac, they are the big three lead transistor with an aluminum heat sink on the end of the battery. They are electronic switches to turn the power on. TH-cam will have videos on how to check them. Good luck!
Thanks for your reply. I was hoping you would say to simply boost or replace the two batteries that show only 2.11v. I hope I can find the electronic switch video.@@larrychastain457
Try using similar method , but different order: 1). Press the test button. 2). BEFORE the LED’s turn off, short J2 to ground. PS- the video shows the correct two pins to connect but incorrectly calls the ground pin T2. The ground pin is not labeled, but you’ll notice that it is a square solder pad, not round pad. Also important to make sure the individual cells are close to each other in voltage or the BMS will just trip again. If needed, charge the cells individually until they all match. Lastly, even if all cells are matched…. the overall voltage needs to be over 15 volts or the BMS will trip again after being reset.
This is for batteries that are out of warranty. If you remove that plug, your warranty is void and you won’t get a replacement battery in your battery might be.
i have a 18v 4Ah Ryobi ONE+ battery that stop working. push the battery button and it flashes 4 times. when I try to measure voltage between terminals it jumps from10v to 0v. I went ahead and opened the battery and measure the voltage between terminals at circuit board level and got 18.61. I measure the voltage between the suggested jumper points and got 3.7v. I jumped making sure it was 0v, pushed the button and got 4 blinks and off. close the battery and put it on the drill tool but did not work. I plug the charger and the solid red no green indicator comes up, pointing to the very left where the temperature icon is, but there is no battery on the bay. With 0v across terminals and 18+v across terminals at the circuit board and no working with a tool, I am confused..... is a charging problem or a battery problem ?
i have a very old ryobi i havnt used in about a full yr., and from watching this i understood how the circuit board will switch over from blinking red to charging green only after it reads a small amount of power from a battery but initially it does provide a small amount of power with a steady red just as it is plugged in so i plugged and unplugged it about 4 or 5 times with the battery inserted then the battery charger finally agreed to switch over to charging mode with steady red and blinking green light...
Great hack but opening mine I find that it's a different control board with no well defined at T2 or J1. Battery has 18+ volts and each cell is about 3.8v but still won't charge so I'm assuming it needs this reset but I'm afraid to start shorting out terminals on a lithium battery unless I know exactly what I'm doing. Thoughts?
Follow up. It's been sitting on my workbench for a couple months now and two of the four cells have dropped from 3.8 to 0. I'm guessing a bad BMS because the battery was wet? It's a shame I wasn't able to reset the board because I suspect the cells were still good.
Hello, could you please help me? How can I reset the BMS of a 1.5 amp battery? Will you have a video? Please share the link with me. I would greatly appreciate it.
How do you know how old the battery is I know you look on the back somehow up you got to be able to read the serial number on it until the year it was made
The first four digits are the year and week of manufacturing. For example S/N cs2230xxxxxxxx would be 2022, week 30. I have batteries that are over 12 years and functional. Hope this helps!
mine ryobi 5ah battery when pushing blink 4 times all green lights, i dissasembled it and made reset like you but it not work , still blink 4 times... i checked volts on battery + and - down there i see 19.72 volts, and when checking up voltage in place were sit in to charger i see 0.4 volts only... up top i checked + i have but negative not come up . when i put in to the charger battery on the charger blinking only 1 red light . battery to hot light.. quess its done....
Probably not- it says on the warranty info when you buy it new that the original purchase receipt must be provided to claim the warranty. Pretty sure you have to show a Home Depot receipt or they won't honor any warranty.
Didn't work for me on a PBP005. Also there is a plastic plug covering the back left screw. I heated the driver bit to melt through the plug since trying to pry it out with a small screwdriver was unsuccessful
Surprisingly enough voltage was 26.14 so it's still under 90 day from Home Depot so I'll get another. Just odd that it didn't work. Yes I found T2 and J1 . I get 1 blinking led then after shorting it the LEDs just cycle continuously.
Indeed he does, a very convenient evolutionary trait to have occur when diagosing most anything. I myself havent reached such maturity yet, praying like hell that i will tho
Need to have a cope of register receipt or rybio wout talk to you. I have 2 batters that have done this and no paper work to show when i bought the batteries.
It doesnt Look like you are using the T2 point? That Looks to be the Large Silver/black post labeled T2, just above where you are shorting it on the brd. I did find the J1 point and there are 3 connection ports in 2 square areas of it with that number.and with holes in them. Im not sure where to short J1 to ?
@adame924 you may not have it, I found mine around the middle of the board. Depends on the battery you may have only a rst holes on the side. It will only say rst on the board.
I forgot my 6Ah battery was charging in garage, next day I see the charger flashing red light, I took battery off and pressed indicator button and all 4 light flashes, and it's completely dead. I tried jumping wire from battery to battery but that didn't work....... Since my battery is 11 months old I'll call Ryobi first, if they wont replace it or I cant get hold of them, I'll try your trick............
Sorry it didn't work for you. Are you sure you found the correct contact points (T2, J1) to short? You might try pressing the test button and before the LED’s turn off, short J2 to ground. You may have a bad cell, check the individual cell voltages to verify they are good. You might also charge each cell individually and then try again ( be careful to make sure you have polarity correct when charging). Good luck!
He wanted to give us a visual demonstration of how to do this. For the purpose of a visual demonstration, it matters not whether the battery is good or bad. This good battery, used as a prop sufficiently served the purpose of giving us that visual demonstration. This is why he posted it with a good battery!!! Understand???
He wanted to give us a visual demonstration of how to do this. For the purpose of a visual demonstration, it matters not whether the battery is good or bad. This good battery, used as a prop sufficiently served the purpose of giving us that visual demonstration. This is why he posted it with a good battery!!! Understand???
I tried that mine doesn't work, no lites came on. I also do not have a rst holes on the side so i guess mines junk BUT i did contact ryobi and they would replace it. I didnt tell them that i tried this trick though..
Try taking the battery pack out of the case and checking the individual voltages across each battery you may find you have an "open" circuit (no voltage) across one of the cells, it is bad and will have to be replaced.
![RYOBI 18V Battery Not Working? [Easy DIY Charging Hack]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/sqeiOkSNRsU/mqdefault.jpg)
![RYOBI 18V Battery Not Working? [Easy DIY Charging Hack]](/img/tr.png)
I have been buying tools from auction that come from Home Depot. Had a combo Drill/Impact kit (new customer return). One of the batteries was dead. Checked the cells and they were all close to 0 volts. Jumpered the cells with a good battery. Voltage came up but still flashing Red/Green on the charger. Repeated this 2 more times; voltage was now about 16 volts across all the cells. Still no good. But now getting all 4 LEDs flashing 4 times when the button is pressed. Jumpered J1 and T1 as per this video on a PBP003 battery. It has the same electronic board as in the video. Pressing the button now yielded a single LED. Put in on the charger and it is charging fine. Thank You for the video and the great explanation!
You saved me from having to buy a new battery. Much appreciated!!!
100% Awesome. I had done the jump start and had voltage in the cells, but the charger still indicated a bad battery. I assumed there was a safety on the circuit board but had no idea how to reset it until I found this. It worked like a charm. Thank you!
SWEET it worked perfect, I shorted the unit then hit the lights , they flashed and I reconnected the unit and booo ya it works !! Thank you!
Happy it worked for you!
Larry, you are an absolute genius.
Thank you so much for posting this. Worked like a hot dam on my PBP006.
I honestly really appreciate it. 👍
Good deal! Thanks for posting!🙂
I tried that trick on my 4 mh battery a d it worked like a charm. Turns out the battery was fully charged.
Thank you, just did this to a battery that's been sitting for over a year. It was reading 16v but wouldn't charge, did your trick and now it's good again.
Glad I could help!
Just tried the jump with a paperclip and worked like a charm! Thank you!
Excellent!
Outstanding my friend! My battery is a 3AH so the jumper spots were smaller and a little harder to find. But once I found them and followed your instructions- bam! Light reset and charging like normal. Thanks my guy!
You just saved my 6ah high output battery thanks a million!!
Your Welcome! Glad it was a help!
I have an older 4ah battery, it did not have a J1 so jumped to ground. I heard a click, jumped with another battery. It worked! Thanks!
Glad you got it going!
Thanks for posting this tutorial video. I was able to revive the 18V Ryobi battery that I had for less than a year.
Glad it worked for you!
If you had it less than a year just return it for a new one
@@MikesManCave I should have done that first, but I decided to disassemble them. At the end I tampered with the battery and thinking I have voided the warranty.
@@cjjjjrak Ahh, yes defiantly voided the warranty. I always try to return stuff first if that doesn't work you have nothing to loose.
Sometimes Ryobi customer support doesn’t even want the old “defective” battery back when they send a replacement under warranty. That’s when you can try to revive the “defective” one, after you have the warranty replacement in hand.
Thank you so much, Larry. my Ryobi battery 18v 4ah working again. I got another 18v with 6ah. I will try this method. Again, thank you so much for your video tutorial. 😉
You're welcome!
Thank you!!! This worked perfectly on my 6ah HP battery saved me $140!!
I do battery rebuilds and this trick only works reliably if you have good battery cells that somehow became unbalanced. Unless you remove each cell from the pack, there is no way to measure for bad cells as all you'll get is the average voltage across the entire battery pack. So on the 4AH 10x cell pack, you can have 9x cells that are 4.2V with 1x reading 0V. That will give you an average of ~19V or ~3.8V per cell, which will look good when measuring with a volt meter. However, you'll never get to 21V as the charger charges each cell bank. Sooner, rather than later, that pack will show the same error again. The right way to fix these packs is to tear them down, test each cell, and replace any defective ones. It's a pain and requires some skill and special tools.
Soldered a red wire on the positive and a black wire on the negative. Melted two indentation on the back end where I can thread the two wires separately. Closed the cover, and viola! no need to ever open it again. I just have two short wires (so they never touch) I can tap with pins connected to a 12v while on the charger. 😀
i think you only need to bring the negative lead to the outside since that is the one interrupted by the BMS. Then charge the battery up to some safe level with a voltage supply. The positive terminal of the battry pack is always connected to the OEM (+) tab... i don't think it is usually interrupted. ...I guess your way is a bit different since you are maintaining 12v from another source while using the ryobi charger for the initial charge?...... I think the video on here is possibly even another senario where the BMS has to be reset..... There are probably a few different RYOBI boards
@@unionse7en From what I understand you just have to bring the voltage up so that the charger can get triggered when you insert the battery into it. Battery tend to get fully discharged especially after a winter season where it mostly sit in storage. So far so good. At least I never have to worry about security screws again.
You’re a legend, mate! Saved me mucho dineras.
Great trick, thank you for this! I have the same battery, and it was a full charge, just needed the reset lol
I did the reset I can not believe it worked. Thank you Thank you !
Glad I could help!
Thank you very much it did not fix my problem but your description was excellent and at least allowed me to rule out a simple fix.
Good Luck with it!
Same here. Did not work but this was a great video!
Try a different charger. My battery was good ,it was the charger that was bad.
Wonderful, worked perfectly, many thanks!!!
You're welcome!
Thank you for the instruction! I have the same problem (all 4 check LEDs flashed 4 time), cannot be charged. I used the same method to reset the battery by following your instruction exactly. However, after reset, the problem was still there. Any suggestions? Thanks
Sorry it didn't work for you. Does your battery look exactly like the one in the video? Are you sure you found the correct contact points (T2, J1) to short? You may have a bad cell, check the individual cell voltages to verify they are good. You might also charge each cell individually and then try again ( be careful to make sure you have polarity correct when charging). Good luck with it!
Fixed my battery. Thank you for the video
I have one of the new ryobi batteries it doesn’t have the t2 j1 to reset it. Any ideas ? Thanks
It should have the same 2 hole but on the side that says rst.
Thank you very much. You saved 2 of my batteries!
Glad it worked for you!
Ways Ryobi will make you buy a new battery. Thanks for the hack.
I have been trying everything to get this battery to recharge. I pulled it apart and checked the actual cells and everything was fine. But the part that goes into the charger read zero. Your video is the one that showed the resetting of the battery. it got to cold. Thank you.
You should have about 18 volt if all the cells are good. If you have 18 volt at battery pack but nothing (or very low) at tool terminal then it could be a bad triac, they are the big three lead transistors with an aluminum heat sink on the end of the battery. They are electronic switches to turn the power on. TH-cam will have videos on how to check them. Hope you get it going!
Thanks a million, battery is ready to go!
Dude that trick is awesome, you saved my battery, thanks a lot! 👍🏻
Glad it worked for you!
My looks like it's sealed I don't come apart what are you do
@@tonylofu1970 There are plastic plugs covering torx security screws. You need to remove them to access the screws. Harbor freight has a security bit set if you don't have one.
Thanks for the short-out instructions Larry, but you glossed over that you have press in the top of the two squeeze-tabs to release the case top affer removing the screws.
Apologies if this may be a stupid question, but what is the guage of the jumper wire.
That was a great help, but I have a question about where a flat silver insulation wafer came from. I could send you a picture of it.
If it's kinda U shaped probably goes on top of post where the tool contacts are. Put it on top of that post before replacing the top plastic case.
Thanks. I was thinking that was it, but the profiles didn’t seem to correspond to the wafer/insulator’s dimensions.
Me fue de mucha utilidad la información, muchas gracias por estr video
Glad it worked for you.
Hello, very interesting and informative video. I have a P191 3.0Ah battery with the same symptoms, but I could not find a similar reset on the circuit board. Is there any other way to reset this battery? Is it a good idea to totally discharge the battery and try to charge it back (maybe it will reset it)? Thank you in advance.
I'm not familiar with that battery so I don't know where the reset would be on that battery. If you totally discharge battery and the voltage goes below a minimum value the charger will refuse to charge it. Sorry not much help.
Same problem here
@kevinjefferson9739 do you mean you do not have a j1/t2? If not you may have rst 2 holes on side of battery. It will say only rst on it.
Worked for me. Thank you!
You're welcome!
Thank you verry much you deserve a like. 👍
Thank you, man.did work for me appreciated
You're welcome, glad it helped!
The battery i have, appears the same, but this repair approach did not work. The battery is PBP004 about one year old
Same issue here same model.
Same here,and this one's maybe been used 5 tmes😠
Worked like a charm! Thank you!
Hi Larry, I have the exact same battery with the same issue. Battery was fully charged, and the charger shows a solid green light as expected. However, the tester button flashed 4 time and no power is outputting. Opened it up and tested the batteries as shown and getting about 20 volts. Tried the reset jumper, it flashed all 4 LEDs then flashed only LED number 2 and 4 during the jump reset. Am I missing something or is this batter gone?
Your message about not messing with it should have been at the front of the video.
Awesome, worked perfectly thanks
Hi, I looked at your video of fixing the 18 volt Ryobi battery.. my battery green light all four lights keep flashing constantly and won't stop. What can I do in this case? Thank you
mine did the same and I followed the video, keep in mine, the wires you need are very small, I found a head phone plug in and used them, I did need to use a lighted magnifying glass which was nice. It came back after they were shorted with 2 lights on and I plugged it into a tool and it worked.
Dear Larry,
Working on ryobi pbp005. About 17.5v inside battery and only 0.5v at tower. All batteries show approximately 3.94 except two that read 2.11v I jumped the t2 and j1 but no sucess still blinks and not charging. Please guide me foward as I am determined to make it work again. Thank you for a most helpful tutorial, and all the best from New Rochelle N.Y.
Could be a bad triac, they are the big three lead transistor with an aluminum heat sink on the end of the battery. They are electronic switches to turn the power on. TH-cam will have videos on how to check them. Good luck!
Thanks for your reply. I was hoping you would say to simply boost or replace the two batteries that show only 2.11v. I hope I can find the electronic switch video.@@larrychastain457
Try using similar method , but different order:
1). Press the test button.
2). BEFORE the LED’s turn off, short J2 to ground.
PS- the video shows the correct two pins to connect but incorrectly calls the ground pin T2. The ground pin is not labeled, but you’ll notice that it is a square solder pad, not round pad.
Also important to make sure the individual cells are close to each other in voltage or the BMS will just trip again. If needed, charge the cells individually until they all match.
Lastly, even if all cells are matched…. the overall voltage needs to be over 15 volts or the BMS will trip again after being reset.
@@test-193 I can't find the J2 anywhere on the board. Did to mean T2?
Or did you mean J1?
Worked good, thank you 😁
This is for batteries that are out of warranty. If you remove that plug, your warranty is void and you won’t get a replacement battery in your battery might be.
We’ll done , thx . That’s what I needed!
Your welcome!
Спасибо дружище за полезную информацию!
you're welcome!
Gracias me funcionó 😊😊😊😊
Thanks you so much!
hmmm you described all symptoms perfectly, but reset did not work?
Easiest way ive seen.. thanks
i have a 18v 4Ah Ryobi ONE+ battery that stop working. push the battery button and it flashes 4 times. when I try to measure voltage between terminals it jumps from10v to 0v. I went ahead and opened the battery and measure the voltage between terminals at circuit board level and got 18.61. I measure the voltage between the suggested jumper points and got 3.7v. I jumped making sure it was 0v, pushed the button and got 4 blinks and off. close the battery and put it on the drill tool but did not work. I plug the charger and the solid red no green indicator comes up, pointing to the very left where the temperature icon is, but there is no battery on the bay. With 0v across terminals and 18+v across terminals at the circuit board and no working with a tool, I am confused..... is a charging problem or a battery problem ?
i have a very old ryobi i havnt used in about a full yr., and from watching this i understood how the circuit board will switch over from blinking red to charging green only after it reads a small amount of power from a battery but initially it does provide a small amount of power with a steady red just as it is plugged in so i plugged and unplugged it about 4 or 5 times with the battery inserted then the battery charger finally agreed to switch over to charging mode with steady red and blinking green light...
Great hack but opening mine I find that it's a different control board with no well defined at T2 or J1. Battery has 18+ volts and each cell is about 3.8v but still won't charge so I'm assuming it needs this reset but I'm afraid to start shorting out terminals on a lithium battery unless I know exactly what I'm doing.
Thoughts?
Follow up. It's been sitting on my workbench for a couple months now and two of the four cells have dropped from 3.8 to 0. I'm guessing a bad BMS because the battery was wet? It's a shame I wasn't able to reset the board because I suspect the cells were still good.
@@worldwideinterests1 I found my j1/t2 in the middle of the board is, but yours may have a rst hikes on the side of the board. It will only say rst
Hello, could you please help me? How can I reset the BMS of a 1.5 amp battery? Will you have a video? Please share the link with me. I would greatly appreciate it.
How do you know how old the battery is I know you look on the back somehow up you got to be able to read the serial number on it until the year it was made
The first four digits are the year and week of manufacturing. For example S/N cs2230xxxxxxxx would be 2022, week 30. I have batteries that are over 12 years and functional. Hope this helps!
It worked for me. Thanks bro for the video 👍
Welcome 👍
This is a great video but for the price we should be returning them maybe then they will correct the problem.
mine ryobi 5ah battery when pushing blink 4 times all green lights, i dissasembled it and made reset like you but it not work , still blink 4 times... i checked volts on battery + and - down there i see 19.72 volts, and when checking up voltage in place were sit in to charger i see 0.4 volts only... up top i checked + i have but negative not come up . when i put in to the charger battery on the charger blinking only 1 red light . battery to hot light.. quess its done....
Does the warranty work even if you didn’t buy the battery new your self but it’s under 3 years old?
Probably not- it says on the warranty info when you buy it new that the original purchase receipt must be provided to claim the warranty. Pretty sure you have to show a Home Depot receipt or they won't honor any warranty.
Didn't work for me on a PBP005. Also there is a plastic plug covering the back left screw. I heated the driver bit to melt through the plug since trying to pry it out with a small screwdriver was unsuccessful
ditto
Is this the same procedure for a 2amp hp battery?
Some 2amp batteries have the same circuit board, should work.
It worked. Thank you for your good video.
Glad it worked for you!
Thank you! 👍🙏
You're Welcome!
Surprisingly enough voltage was 26.14 so it's still under 90 day from Home Depot so I'll get another. Just odd that it didn't work. Yes I found T2 and J1 . I get 1 blinking led then after shorting it the LEDs just cycle continuously.
You have 3 arms?
Indeed he does, a very convenient evolutionary trait to have occur when diagosing most anything. I myself havent reached such maturity yet, praying like hell that i will tho
Need to have a cope of register receipt or rybio wout talk to you. I have 2 batters that have done this and no paper work to show when i bought the batteries.
What if it's an older battery with no self-test button?
All I got out of this deal is all four lights rapidly, blinking, and sequence from left to right
You might want to mention the warranty thing at the beginning of the video
I agree, a warranty disclaimer would be helpful.
My battery lights don't work but battery shows 19 volts. Will jump start bring the lights back on when I press the button
Probably not, but you can try it won't hurt anything.
It doesnt Look like you are using the T2 point? That Looks to be the Large Silver/black post labeled T2, just above where you are shorting it on the brd. I did find the J1 point and there are 3 connection ports in 2 square areas of it with that number.and with holes in them. Im not sure where to short J1 to ?
Thanks ser
Your Welcome!
Mine doesn't have any cruel to take it apart
Thank you
I have a P197 that doesn't have the T2 or J1 that I can find. Does anyone know how to reset a P197?
@adame924 you may not have it, I found mine around the middle of the board. Depends on the battery you may have only a rst holes on the side. It will only say rst on the board.
Did it cross your mind to tell us what the security bit size was?
T4 is what I used. This tip worked for me!
I forgot my 6Ah battery was charging in garage, next day I see the charger flashing red light, I took battery off and pressed indicator button and all 4 light flashes, and it's completely dead. I tried jumping wire from battery to battery but that didn't work.......
Since my battery is 11 months old I'll call Ryobi first, if they wont replace it or I cant get hold of them, I'll try your trick............
Good Luck with Ryobi!
Wish I could find a 9ah video. There's a t2 but no connection and no j1.
I did it but leds just keep cycling. What next?
Sorry it didn't work for you. Are you sure you found the correct contact points (T2, J1) to short? You might try pressing the test button and before the LED’s turn off, short J2 to ground. You may have a bad cell, check the individual cell voltages to verify they are good. You might also charge each cell individually and then try again ( be careful to make sure you have polarity correct when charging). Good luck!
Every vid I've watched tells you to short different circuits
Tried this about 6 times. Never was able to get it to work.
Lithium doesn't like being dead for long
@JonDoe-cg4mr Well, without an autopsy, we'll never know how long it was. 😉
The Test Light Won't Light When I Push
The yellow Button.
why post this with a good battery?
Bc it wouldn't charge. I'm having the same issue gonna try this
He wanted to give us a visual demonstration of how to do this. For the purpose of a visual demonstration, it matters not whether the battery is good or bad. This good battery, used as a prop sufficiently served the purpose of giving us that visual demonstration. This is why he posted it with a good battery!!!
Understand???
He wanted to give us a visual demonstration of how to do this. For the purpose of a visual demonstration, it matters not whether the battery is good or bad. This good battery, used as a prop sufficiently served the purpose of giving us that visual demonstration. This is why he posted it with a good battery!!!
Understand???
It's not acceptable that you should have to do this to a relatively new battery.
no working for me,😭😭😭
I tried that mine doesn't work, no lites came on. I also do not have a rst holes on the side so i guess mines junk BUT i did contact ryobi and they would replace it. I didnt tell them that i tried this trick though..
Always good to see if they will replace it first!
@larrychastain457 oh yes I checked the battery after they told me they'd replace it, just hoping it'd work and I have extra
Hate to disappoint everybody,the voodoo doesn't work
Yellow jumper wire............
I have 0 v in my batterie help me 😢 please
Try taking the battery pack out of the case and checking the individual voltages across each battery you may find you have an "open" circuit (no voltage) across one of the cells, it is bad and will have to be replaced.
@@chastalh ok thanks
@@chastalh hi
there is current passing through the battery as in your video but by shunting it still doesn't work the 4 LEDs always flash 4 times
You never showed a defective battery!!!!
Sorry, fixed them all before I decided to make video.
Video tubes 😂
All this because I left my battery 🔋 out in the rain!!!