I have the same lathe and it had several issues that needed correction. The problem was that doing every thing you said works fairly well, but the lathe would still turn a taper. Not much, but if you were trying to turn bearing mount journals at the ends of a 12in (300mm) shaft, they would be different sizes. The very first thing you need to adjust the lathe is to get a test bar with a taper to fit the lathe spindle. Check with a dial indicator to see that the test bar is parallel to the lathe bed vertically and horizontally. On your lathe the headstock is held to the bed on a machined flat surface with 4 bolts. You can see in the video that the headstock has a lip that hangs over the back of the bed. There are two jack screws in the lip that are used to adjust the head stock horizontally. My lathe required shims under the headstock to make it parallel to the bed and adjustment with the jack screws as well. Next check the quill in the tailstock to see that is the same height as the headstock spindle and is parallel to the bed vertically and horizontally. My tailstock required surface grinding and shims on the cricket (the tailstock base) to get the quill to the correct height and parallel to the spindle center line vertically. Fortunately, on your lathe, if you look at the back of the tailstock cricket you will see two socket head set screws. They press on a piece of key stock and if required you can shim or grind the key stock to set the quill parallel to the lathe spindle line. As an aside you can make a very simple lifting mechanism for the motor as well as tensioning the jackshaft so that you may adjust the spindle speeds in just a few seconds. I can send you pictures if you like. Cheers from NC/USA
Your lathe looks like an older Jet lathe. I will guess it's a 12" X 36" two HP model. I got the same one and love it although mine had a lot of use on it when I bought it over 20 years ago it still does a fine job.
Actually a 13x40 Advance but quite similar to the Jet model you mention. It's a Taiwanese built lathe and not a bad machine for the money. I've had it for 39 years. They make the same machine in a geared head model (this one is a belt drive) and I worked on one of those in a toolroom for a while. Again, a decent machine. I suspect there are a number of brands produced in the same factory. In fact, I know this to be the case. WH
A very informative lesson Bill. One question - you may have covered this before, but when chambering a barrel, if the tailstock runout is zeroed, why do you use a hand held reamer instead of having a reamer mounted in the tailstock?
The reamer is supported by the tailstock center and my hand is just keeping the reamer from turning. In truth, if the barrel is set up straight, and the reamer can be held perfectly straight and in line, then holding the reamer solidly in the tailstock is a perfectly viable system. In fact, I believe Bruce Thom does it just that way. Different strokes!
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I have the same lathe and it had several issues that needed correction. The problem was that doing every thing you said works fairly well, but the lathe would still turn a taper. Not much, but if you were trying to turn bearing mount journals at the ends of a 12in (300mm) shaft, they would be different sizes.
The very first thing you need to adjust the lathe is to get a test bar with a taper to fit the lathe spindle. Check with a dial indicator to see that the test bar is parallel to the lathe bed vertically and horizontally. On your lathe the headstock is held to the bed on a machined flat surface with 4 bolts. You can see in the video that the headstock has a lip that hangs over the back of the bed. There are two jack screws in the lip that are used to adjust the head stock horizontally. My lathe required shims under the headstock to make it parallel to the bed and adjustment with the jack screws as well.
Next check the quill in the tailstock to see that is the same height as the headstock spindle and is parallel to the bed vertically and horizontally. My tailstock required surface grinding and shims on the cricket (the tailstock base) to get the quill to the correct height and parallel to the spindle center line vertically. Fortunately, on your lathe, if you look at the back of the tailstock cricket you will see two socket head set screws. They press on a piece of key stock and if required you can shim or grind the key stock to set the quill parallel to the lathe spindle line.
As an aside you can make a very simple lifting mechanism for the motor as well as tensioning the jackshaft so that you may adjust the spindle speeds in just a few seconds. I can send you pictures if you like.
Cheers from NC/USA
Your lathe looks like an older Jet lathe. I will guess it's a 12" X 36" two HP model. I got the same one and love it although mine had a lot of use on it when I bought it over 20 years ago it still does a fine job.
Actually a 13x40 Advance but quite similar to the Jet model you mention. It's a Taiwanese built lathe and not a bad machine for the money. I've had it for 39 years. They make the same machine in a geared head model (this one is a belt drive) and I worked on one of those in a toolroom for a while. Again, a decent machine. I suspect there are a number of brands produced in the same factory. In fact, I know this to be the case. WH
A very informative lesson Bill. One question - you may have covered this before, but when chambering a barrel, if the tailstock runout is zeroed, why do you use a hand held reamer instead of having a reamer mounted in the tailstock?
The reamer is supported by the tailstock center and my hand is just keeping the reamer from turning. In truth, if the barrel is set up straight, and the reamer can be held perfectly straight and in line, then holding the reamer solidly in the tailstock is a perfectly viable system. In fact, I believe Bruce Thom does it just that way. Different strokes!