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Will Henry's Workshop
เข้าร่วมเมื่อ 29 ธ.ค. 2023
For many years I made a living as a professional gunsmith. During those years, I became accustomed to the presence of a bunch of guys who liked to stand around and watch me work. It seems they found it interesting. I'm retired now, but there may still be people who want to know how this particular gunsmith does things, and how they can do things for themselves. From the basics to the more advanced, you will see how this old guy does it, and how you can do the same, or better. Will Henry
43. A 375 Ruger on a McMillan action
After returning from a road trip to Florida, I'm back in the shop and starting back to work. I discuss some aspects of the action I'm fitting this barrel to. During this discussion, I make reference to an extractor cut, when I should have said ejector. I have no doubt, many will pick that out. While reaming the chamber, I comment on the reamer performance. As it happens part of the perceived problem can be attributed to the 5R rifling rearing it's ugly head again. No harm done, but it makes the reamer feel like it's cutting poorly, when it really isn't. I truly dislike 5R's. In some upcoming videos, I hope to get away from this barrel work for a bit and address some other aspects of rifle work, but for now, it seems like it's all barrels, all the time.
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วีดีโอ
42. Setting back an old barrel and fitting it to the old Wichita.
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In this segment, I explain setting up to pre-bore the chamber. In this particular case, it is my intent to chamber and throat the barrel first, then set it up between centers to thread. Well, I did this with two barrels, fully intending to record everything, and in both cases, I messed up the recording. So it is that I'll have to re-do that later on. Thanks to my recording failures, I only have...
41. Another chambering job.
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As the title suggests, I'm just chambering another barrel. This one is the 338-06 for the Kimber 84L Mountain ascent. The 338-06 is a fine cartridge. Somewhat better than the 35 Whelen I built for myself. The one advantage to the 35 is the ability to use .357 pistol bullets for light loads. I describe the process as I go and hope to touch on things I might have missed before. Chambering a rifle...
40. Lapping locking lugs and seats.
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In this segment, I lap the locking lugs on the Kimber Mountain Ascent action. The lugs had galled at some point and the surface was rough and uneven. This is not uncommon, especially on stainless actions. Stainless steel has a tendency to stick. Some action makers will use dissimilar materials for the receiver and bolt. This helps to prevent galling in the absence of lubrication. Remington, for...
39. Back to the Kimbers and another Winchester
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I get started on a couple of the remaining Kimbers. At the same time, I swap barrels on another old (1953) Model 70. I spot some galling in one of the Kimber actions, along with a little bit of setback. Both issues probably the result of loading a bit too hot. No serious damage or issues and I discuss my plans moving forward. I measure the amount of setback and find it to be relatively insignif...
38. Reconfiguring the Remchester
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In this segment, I put off doing any real work and show my dedicated 300m rifle. This might be the rifle which goes to the Tack Driver match in SC next fall. I put the Remchester into an offhand stock with the intent to shoot it in the Metallic Silhouette match upcoming.
37. Testing the Remchester, 6.5 Creedmoor
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In this segment, I put the rifle and other gear in the gardening wagon and drag it up to my range where I put the first shots through the barrel. My range is a long 100 meter range and is closer to 117 yds than to 110. The first five shots showed quite a bit of vertical dispersion, at 1.4 inches, but as the barrel got some rounds through it, it improved quite a bit, and the second group measure...
36. Assembly of the "Remchester" Model 70 in 6.5 Creedmoor
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This video covers the final assembly of the rifle. I discuss the bedding a little bit but I'll get into that a little more in a later segment. I talk about the importance of have clearance ahead of the extractor. This is an important aspect of working with a Model 70. I have had rifles sent to me, for accuracy problems, and the only issue was contact between the extractor and barrel. The stock ...
35. Moving forward on the Remington/Winchester combination
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Having figured out what I need to do to set up and straighten up the chamber, I set up in preparation for it.
34. Fitting a Remington 700 barrel to a pre-war Model 70
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This is the first installment of the process of re-purposing a Remington barrel. This process is made more difficult by some misalignment of the original chamber. This makes this job considerably more difficult than if I was to simply fit a new barrel to the old Model 70. If the original chamber is perfectly aligned and dimensionally OK, this sort of job can be quite easily done. If one is will...
33. Another day, another Kimber.
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In this segment, I show another chambering job and talk a little bit about reamers. I have used reamers from various sources and have gotten good results with all of them. In general, when a reamer performs poorly, I look at myself first!
32. I cave in to nostalgia
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In this video I show the first 6PPC I made. I competed with this rifle around 1980 and did well with it. I sold it in 1982, as I recall. I always kind of regretted selling it, so when the son of the man I had sold it to called and asked if I was interested, I caved in and bought it. It's going to need a little restoration work, but here it is. WH
Uh oh, we have a problem!
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In this segment, I discover a problem with a recently installed barrel. I demonstrate how to slug the barrel with a piece of lead to measure internal dimensions. Ultimately, this barrel will be replaced with a new one. This one will go back to the manufacturer for their consideration. Getting a faulty barrel is extremely rare. In nearly fifty years I have had no more than 4 or 5 which were unus...
30. Another do-nothing day
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I was feeling a little under motivated today, so I decided I would just discuss and compare the Kimber and Winchester actions. I'm sure I missed some features so feel free to ask questions, and I'll try to answer. WH
29. Installing the Muzzle Brake
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In the last segment, I showed the making of the brake. This shows the installation. The installation is simple enough but a bit painstaking. Alignment is somewhat critical so that clearance between the bullet and brake can be reduced. I generally try for a diameter .020" over bullet diameter, for a clearance of .010". Alignment of the outside of the brake, while only cosmetic, is the part every...
25. Chambering, and throating the 6.5 barrel for the Kimber Mountain Ascent.
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25. Chambering, and throating the 6.5 barrel for the Kimber Mountain Ascent.
24. Fitting of the 6.5 barrel to the Kimber action
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24. Fitting of the 6.5 barrel to the Kimber action
21. Setting up and cutting the first section of the barrel.
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21. Setting up and cutting the first section of the barrel.
20. Offsetting tailstock to cut a taper
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20. Offsetting tailstock to cut a taper
17. A discussion about headspace, head clearance, and gauges.
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17. A discussion about headspace, head clearance, and gauges.
Inside threading with single point cutter
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Inside threading with single point cutter
finishing the bore of the sleeve for the 1895 barrel
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finishing the bore of the sleeve for the 1895 barrel
Good job ....
👍👍 ..............
Will, who is the barrel maker?
This barrel is a Benchmark. These are good barrels. I've installed quite a few and all have been excellent. WH
How would you go about aligning the tailstock if it was off vertically instead of horizontally?
How would you go about aligning the tailstock if it was off vertically instead of horizontally?
If the tailstock sits high (most do when cold) I let the machine run for 10 minutes or so and check again. Then, if the tailstock is still high, I would scrape the base to lower it. If the tailstock sits low, shims between the base and top will fix it. The difficulty, of course, is in getting the height right, while keeping the quill parallel to the ways. WH
Like the video, but as I’m watching and listening to you I keep hearing another machinist he goes by the name. mrpete222 Speak pattern and voice are the same?
Maybe a long lost relative?
Well I'm glad I found your channel. You seem to be doing well, at least I'm enjoying the videos and they are keeping my attention. The stuff you believe may be repetitive and boring you cold speed up and do short clips in the video. For me I love hearing the explanations, thought process, and procedures. Hoping one day to get set up myself. Hopefully
Audio sucks
You said about using a ball centre. Thats the first i heard of them. I looking to turn some barrels. Could you tell me more about how you came use them?
I just picked up a "mega" 6mm, ie 240 Weatherby, I have to try it out in the spring. hopefully make it down your way.????
Thanks, that was interesting and informative. Positive distractions like this are good to keep my brain exercised.
Glad you enjoyed it! Too bad I messed up the camera work on the second half, so it couldn't get published. I'll have to do another. WH
Thanks for sharing. Very valuable information. I learn something every time I watch.
I have refitted Savage barrels to Sakos, Rem 700 barrels to Vanguards and small ring Huskys and probably a few other combos I've forgotten. I've always had to endure comments like, "take-off barrels were taken off for a reason", "good barrels don't end up in the barrel bin", "why waste time installing take-off barrels?", etc. etc. Good to see a real gunsmith using a take-off barrel. I feel much better now.
Good to hear from you, Rick. I am constantly re-fitting barrels for myself and others. Back in my early days, such work was more common than now. This seems a bit counter-intuitive when you look at the prices of today's barrels. I'll do some more serious shooting with this one later and will see what it can do. I have always said, a good barrel is a good barrel. Doesn't matter how it was made or who made it.
@@WillHenrysWorkshop-gunsmith Take-off barrels almost always get a bad rap. I've done quite a few for myself over the years. Our mutual friend RF informed me of your channel. Great videos. I like the way you approach things, to the point with no drama. I haven't been doing much barrel work lately but will in the future. I plan to watch more of your videos while I'm out of the shop for a few days right now.
Interesting lathe, reminds me of a certain lathe that i have seen once, but hell if i can recall the model...
Pretty standard fare forty years ago. A belt drive 13x40. Taiwanese made. Decent machine but a little on the light side. WH
Very nice work sir
Thank you very much. And thanks for watching
My bench looks about the same except when I clean it up once a month.
When you are not happy with your groupings, do you always change powders before adjusting powder charge? Thanks for the video!
Not usually, but in a case like this, where there were excessive velocity variations, and where I didn't really think the powder was ideal, I will. Now, it might be that stepping it up a little would improve things, but I really didn't intend to stay with IMR 4831 anyway. I was just using up a partial can.
@ Stepping down works sometimes too.
It could. However, when velocities seem a little erratic or when dispersion is primarily vertical, a pressure increase seems to have a better result. Of course, this isn't cast in stone. If I'm being honest, powder choice in my world, is largely dependent on the inventory! WH
I have cut a lot of chambers but am always on pins and needles when I do a bottleneck case. Even a big one and pre drilling. I am partial to straight wall cartridges. I built a flood coolant system for chambering but it made such a mess I went back to oil and clean as you go.
My approach varies according to the cartridge, and the type of rifle, of course. The old adage "measure twice" certainly applies. My methods have evolved over the years as well. Going forward, I may change more. Who knows? I have a 45/70 coming up, so that's different. WH
Interesting where are you located?
British Columbia
Great camera shots and another great video. Lots of good info.
Glad you enjoyed it.
I’d pay good money to have a field jacket like You have on!!!! BTW, I just found Your channel and love it. I did machine work in the late 80’s, wish I’d stayed with it!!!!
Thank you for watching. I reckon I've had that jacket for 25 years. It was a gift from my daughter. WH
I believe Pac-Nor buttons their barrels. Does this not, theoretically, have the potential of intooducing stress into the tube as the button is being pulled through?
Button rifling does induce some stress into the blank. For this reason, all good buttoned barrels go through a stress relief process, prior to tapering or contouring. WH
Interesting. Thanks. Will you be showing how you will be adjusting the headspace soon ?
Hi Greg, Adjusting headspace is accomplished during the machining process. The headspace is controlled by the location of the barrel shoulder, in relation to the breech face. This, is so unless a nut (ala Savage) is used. Even then, the nut becomes the shoulder. I will get into this a little further in future videos. Thankyou for the question. WH
Very interesting videos. Nice work.
Thank you very much! WH
Nice work sir could you recommend any gunsmith books on winchester model 70 ?
I honestly cannot think of any references on gunsmithing the Model 70. I'll ask some of my fellow gunsmiths for recommendations. There are a number of reference works on Model 70's but not on gunsmithing per se. I think I know as much as anyone, but I also know there are people who will know something which I do not! WH
@WillHenrysWorkshop-gunsmith thank you any information would be awesome.
How do you find the Montana's for straightness? Did they require much for trueing generally?
Good, Thx
Welcome!
Great to see you working on the old winchesters, I love learning all about them.
The Winchester rifles, especially the Model 70, really were an example of the best of rifle manufacturing in that pre-war era. Not perfect, but still a fine rifle. Just imperfect enough for a gunsmith to have something to work on! WH
I think u should adjust your white balance on the camera settings to get rid of the darkness
I'll give it a try. I appreciate the input. WH
I have the same lathe and it had several issues that needed correction. The problem was that doing every thing you said works fairly well, but the lathe would still turn a taper. Not much, but if you were trying to turn bearing mount journals at the ends of a 12in (300mm) shaft, they would be different sizes. The very first thing you need to adjust the lathe is to get a test bar with a taper to fit the lathe spindle. Check with a dial indicator to see that the test bar is parallel to the lathe bed vertically and horizontally. On your lathe the headstock is held to the bed on a machined flat surface with 4 bolts. You can see in the video that the headstock has a lip that hangs over the back of the bed. There are two jack screws in the lip that are used to adjust the head stock horizontally. My lathe required shims under the headstock to make it parallel to the bed and adjustment with the jack screws as well. Next check the quill in the tailstock to see that is the same height as the headstock spindle and is parallel to the bed vertically and horizontally. My tailstock required surface grinding and shims on the cricket (the tailstock base) to get the quill to the correct height and parallel to the spindle center line vertically. Fortunately, on your lathe, if you look at the back of the tailstock cricket you will see two socket head set screws. They press on a piece of key stock and if required you can shim or grind the key stock to set the quill parallel to the lathe spindle line. As an aside you can make a very simple lifting mechanism for the motor as well as tensioning the jackshaft so that you may adjust the spindle speeds in just a few seconds. I can send you pictures if you like. Cheers from NC/USA
I was lucky in that my headstock is parallel to the ways, vertically and lateral misalignment could be adjusted. I believe I mentioned that the tailstock quill rides a couple thou high when the headstock is cold but aligns when everything is up to temp. I made hardened steel inserts for the tailstock base, so that the adjusting screws would not displace metal. They do if they bear on the cast iron. The main issue I find with this machine is that it is too light. WH
The load shows promise, however my 6.5 Creedmore seems to prefer IMR 4350 over 4831.
I'm not sure to what use I'll put this rifle, but I might switch stocks and shoot a silhouette match with it this weekend. In this case, I'll probably load it with Varget. I will also switch to 123's. WH
Looks promising have fun.
Yes. While it may not turn out to be an exceptional barrel, I think it will be a pretty good one. WH
My front rest is an old Wichita.
I have an old Wichita as well. I bought it along with my Wichita action in the late seventies. WH
You might be a vampire because you do everything in the dark.....
Yes. It was a very gloomy day and getting late. I got my shooting session in between rain storms. I have to mention, this is the great thing about the Garmin Xero, light conditions seem to be nearly meaningless. WH
Great work
Thanks for watching.
Nice work.
Thanks! I appreciate your feedback.
Awesome video serious!
Hello I just found your channel! I'm in the process of watching all your videos! Take care.
Thanks for watching. Any questions or comments, please feel free to comment
Hey Bill, or I guess I should say Will, Love the video's. I've been using your front sight blank idea to add "Borden Button" type sleeves to Remington 700 bolts for years now, simply brilliant in my opinion. I was thinking after you said you had .004 runout in that chamber you'd be going up to something like a .264 Win Mag or 6.5x284 Norma. So when you said you were going back in with the 6.5 Creed , I was like "Oh, this should be interesting. That's going to be tough to do, but I sure hope it turns out great
A bit of a spoiler alert, but it did turn out great! I ended up having to set back by 5/8" in order to be able to clean it up and that was enough to just barely do it. In an upcoming video I'll take it up to the range and test fire it. When the chamber is eccentric, like this one was, you pretty well have to set back enough to eliminate the original neck and throat and hope that is enough to straighten up the body. WH
Happy Thanksgiving Bill and Sharon. TURKEY day. Watching you work brings back some great memories, Bull barrels and the gravel pit behind your old place in Barrier.
Have a good Thanksgiving as well. Doesn't seem that long ago, but I guess it was!
@@WillHenrysWorkshop-gunsmith So ....whats 50 years??? It was 73 or 74.
Another Henrikson fan here !! as well as the 7-08, thanks for your video , best regards Steve
I haven't talked to Hugh in a few years. He's a real craftsman. Thanks for watching. WH
I only had to send my kimber in 204 back 4 times to the factory to get a good group out of it. Lol
Early on, they had some real QC issues. They're pretty good now and I kind of like them. WH
I had asked you about the BAR (280 Rem) thanks for the clarity. I am sticking with the 270 WSM and my 300WM , the WSM may need a new barrel next spring, we will talk. Nice work on the Kimbers.
I've seen other gunsmiths that run a boring bar in there between the drilling and reaming steps. What's your opinion on this procedure?
A boring bar will cut to the axis of the machine. If your barrel is co-axial with the machine, you will get a hole which is perfectly aligned and concentric. Now, most barrels are not perfectly straight, so you are going to have to decide where you compromise and how you align your barrel prior to boring. Generally speaking, a properly ground drill will follow the bore but, if the drilled hole is not concentric, a boring bar will ensure a straight start. However, the barrel has to be precisely centered to bore a concentric hole. For BR barrels, I will dial in at the throat, then bore. Technique will vary according to the intended use of the rifle. WH
@@WillHenrysWorkshop-gunsmith Thanks Will.
Very interesting design. I have never seen anything like it.
I have always liked to be a little different WH
Lee Six and Chet Brown were some of the pioneers in the fiberglass stock world. Chet Brown taught me how to glass bed and finish fiberglass stocks in the 80s. He was a great guy. That's an interesting action on that rifle. Im not a hardcore benchrest shooter, but I wouldn't mind trying one of these out! Thanks for sharing, Rat
Thanks for watching. I still have 3 or four stocks I bought from Lee 47 years ago. I only saw one other guy using one of these actions. I liked it just because it was different.
Honestly refreshing to come across. I know nothing about shooting or rifles. Just nice to see someone explaining their passion
Thanks for watching.
Looks like a blast!
Great channel ......... subbed ya MB ..
Good evening sir, thanks again for the video. This one stirred up a lot of memories for me, for sure the strongest were shooting against Bob and Albert Forslund who used to come down to our turkey shoots back in the late '80's or maybe early '90's. They were always keen competitors but also shared their extensive knowledge generously - with me anyways. All the best and good luck this season.
Bob and Albert were truly memorable characters and I spent many hours talking with them. Bought my first glass stock from Bob. I learned a lot from them. I also spent a lot of time at turkey shoots around the interior. Little Fort, 100 Mile, Chase, Merritt, it seemed like most small towns held one. I only went down to Penticton one time. Hard frost this morning. Finally feels like hunting season! WH
A hard frost! Wow, I'm still waiting for that first cold front to get here. It was about 92 today!
@@floridagunrat1625 Back up to 80 today. Still, there is a bull elk bugling in the field. WH
@@WillHenrysWorkshop-gunsmith What state are you in?
@@floridagunrat1625 I am located in British Columbia. I'm retired, but retirement looks a lot like working!