ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 2 ต.ค. 2024
- I’ll be going through common problems, modifications I’ve done and issues ive experienced in 5 years of ownership of my 2007 Volkswagen Jetta 2.5. As well as a farewell to my first car. All in all it’s a very reliable and great car for the money. Thanks for watching!
I replaced the leaking seal on my vacuum pump on my 2008 Rabbit 2.5. Access was easy after removing the battery and its tray. .
UPDATE: After replacing the front seal, I still had a leak from the back seal and the gasket where the brake vacuum hose is attached. Since I would have to remove the vacuum pump to replace these, I found it easier to remove the problem entirely. I deleted the vacuum pump and sourced the vacuum from the vacuum line between the N80 purge valve hose and the throttle body. I blocked the port in the side of the engine with the Integrated Engineering Vacuum Pump Block-Off Plate. There are instructions in the VW forums on how to do this. I did the entire job for less than $100 and it took just a few hours. That was 20K miles ago and the brakes work perfectly.
2013 2.5 SE owner here. I can attest to the rock solid reputation for these cars. I'm rolling close to 181k miles and aside from brakes & tires, the only things I've had to do so far (which were done by me, no extra labor costs):
- Throttle body & sensor (sensor attached to throttle body, all one piece), ~$120 used part
- valve cover/PCV assembly & gasket (all one piece), ~$100 new
- AC compressor solenoid, $25 part plus cost of refrigerant evac & recharge
Everything else is stock, or if anything WAS replaced it was done before I bought the car @ 33k miles. Amazing reliability and fun to drive. Great video - thanks!
I'm just past 184k! I wanna try and get this car to 1 million but... idk lol I hope it can be done!
Should have bought a Toyota lol🤣
06’ 2.5 5-speed manual @ 235,000mi. I bought it 2 years ago at 211,000. Its been the most reliable car I’ve ever had. I put intake, coils, spark plugs, alternator & tires on it. Hasn’t needed a thing since & starts right up.
My 2013 2.5 jetta se I love the car just having problems with check engine light when I hook up to the reader o2 sensor so I replaced all 3 and still getting check engine starting to think the ecu throwing false check engine because when I clear it sometimes it will go 3 or 4 days before popping back
Maybe exhaust leak? or vacuum leak? Might not just be the sensor or ECU
Just purchased an MK5 Jetta. Can’t wait to mod it.
Same. Just got mine recently.
@@Jenuin Got a 2006 jetta 2.0. You guys know of any good websites for parts?
^
@@MasonxWashington I don’t know where you live. That being said I would go the the local dealer and ask a few of the technicians there. Bring them coffee and donuts on their break time. They will love you and you may get a few leads. I am from Canada and a few friends of mine work at dealership. I haven’t had to ask anything yet but they are plan B =] hope this helps. Also if interested #shameless plug look up 803 Garage Volkswagen Jetta I’m currently building mine up.
@@Jenuin thanks a lot ima use that donut tip 😂😂 and lol “anti theft device”
‘07 owner with 250000 miles, my daily driver. Solid car - no goofy mods done. I’ve done all of my own routine maintenance. Very easy to work on.
My ‘09 2.5l MK5 has 136k miles. I don’t have money for another car. It never left me stranded. Even though I went underwater on repairs alone, I’ll fix it as long as I need to. Parts that have failed on mine:
2019: ABS module, VCG, & serpentine belt (dealer)
2020: Alternator (Indy shop)
2021: PCV diaphragm (Indy shop), oil cap gasket (DIY)
2022: vacuum pump delete kit (DIY), MAP sensor (Indy shop)
2023: belt tensioner (DIY)
2024: valve cover kit (DIY)
All of these repairs have happened between 119k miles and 136k miles. At least once or twice a year, I need to fix something. The main problem with this car is oil leaks, but that’s not a big deal. The prices that the shop charge can be pretty expensive though. If I could do it all over again, I would DIY everything on the car, and service transmission every 64k km/40k miles.
My transmission was never serviced until 120k miles, which was around the mileage when it started to shift rough. Six months later after I do a drain and fill, it started slipping anyway.
I’ve been changing the oil every 4k miles or 5 months with 5W40 Leichtlauf High Tech Engine Oil (5 Liter) - Liqui Moly LM2332.
Upcoming fix 2024: OFHG (Indy shop)
I’m got my trans replacement out of at ‘09 Jetta 2.5l. Trans has less than 30k miles on it for $700. I’ll be doing a drain and fill every 40k miles with OEM Febi Bilstein G055025A2. Many use Valvoline- maxlife, but I feel comfortable sticking with OEM fluid.
That freaking purge valve... I have changed it out 4 times due to cheap replacements. Last one was bosch so hopefully i wont have to do that anytime soon
Got my 09 for $750 i think the main reason was the oil leak which they didnt want to talk about. May have thought it was the rear main. I couldnt find the seal so i siliconed it and havent had any leaks since. Put about $500 into it total and am very happy w this car
Great video man. I have the same car, did my intake and I’m getting the system too lean code and it keeps coming back every time I reset it. Def going to see what’s going on with the hose.
Yea I was hunting down a system lean for a long time. It can be so many things but the hoses are one. Also reset your ecu by disconnecting the battery for 10min and clearing the code just to be sure it’s not random. It’s all about air getting in somewhere past the mass airflow sensor. Some guys found out it was their intake manifold was loose. Things like that. It’s common to get a system lean issues when putting on an intake. Sometimes the computer doesn’t like it.
@@ajetauto5592 yeah I’ll have to look into it, def gonna have to pull the mani my hands couldn’t fit in there lmao. It’s just an annoyance bro. I’ll clear the code and the car will run perfect but as soon as it comes back, the car will almost misfire/shudder past 3k rpm
@@ajetauto5592 I’m assuming it’s gonna be the same problem as yours because my mani don’t feel lose
I replaced my original alternator at 155K miles with rebuilt one from NAPA with a lifetime warranty. So far, no problems.
I also replaced the solenoid on the AC compressor with the upgrade from RKX Tech and the difference is amazing. Quicker cooling and much lower temperature. Very happy.
Trying to figure out how a solenoid would cause cooler temps. Hmmm
@@SoulDaddy33 This solenoid is not OFF/ON. It is variable and never completely off. There are several videos available on how this type works.
I purchased an 08' Rabbit for $1000 back in 2018. Some parts are easy to work on but I will tell you the anti-corrosion leaves a lot to be desired in the rust belt. So many fasteners break after years of Michigan winters
I am the 2nd owner of a 2008 jetta 2.5, 160,000 kms and was wonderng what are benefits of cold air intake? moar hp? how much would it cost? thx
I have a 2006 Jetta 2.0 6 speed with 199946 mileage, the car jerks when I shift between neutral and drive or when I accelerate/decelerate past 10 rpm. What could be causing this?
Did u knownthe problem? The same is with my car
@@juliethtellez903 no I didn’t sir. Planning to replace the gearbox. Tried checking oil level in dec but it still persists
With your car off, prop the hood open, turn key to accessory so you can put the car into gear (D), and try rocking your car back and forth to see how far the motor travels if any… if you do this and the motor lifts or drops more than an inch or so, it could very well be motor mounts
If deleting the vacuum pump is as simple as it sounds, why didn’t it come that way from factory? Surely there must be a downside?
I’m picking one up tomorrow and wondering if I should do the delete preventatively.
I would leave it if it's not leaking
They say if u do the delete u have to remove ur brake booster
@@flamezo_ you can get vacuum from the intake, the pump is redundant.
My ‘09 2.5l MK5 has 136k miles. I don’t have money for another car. It never left me stranded. Even though I went underwater on repairs alone, I’ll fix it as long as I need to. Parts that have failed on mine:
2019: ABS module, VCG, & serpentine belt (dealer)
2020: Alternator (Indy shop)
2021: PCV diaphragm (Indy shop), oil cap gasket (DIY)
2022: vacuum pump delete kit (DIY), MAP sensor (Indy shop)
2023: belt tensioner (DIY)
2024: valve cover kit (DIY)
All of these repairs have happened between 119k miles and 136k miles. At least once or twice a year, I need to fix something. The main problem with this car is oil leaks, but that’s not a big deal. The prices that the shop charge can be pretty expensive though. If I could do it all over again, I would DIY everything on the car, and service transmission every 64k km/40k miles.
My transmission was never serviced until 120k miles, which was around the mileage when it started to shift rough. Six months later after I do a drain and fill, it started slipping anyway.
I’ve been changing the oil every 4k miles or 5 months with 5W40 Leichtlauf High Tech Engine Oil (5 Liter) - Liqui Moly LM2332.
Upcoming fix 2024: OFHG, intake gaskets (Indy shop)
Preventative maintenance that I did:
Evap purge valve, VVT, solenoid, cam sensor, TB gasket, vacuum hose, and fuel filter.
I’m got my trans replacement out of at ‘09 Jetta 2.5l. Trans has less than 30k miles on it for $700. I’ll be doing a drain and fill every 40k miles with OEM Febi Bilstein G055025A2. Many use Valvoline- maxlife, but I feel comfortable sticking with OEM fluid.
Can do a tutorial for the cold air intake bro?
hey would you recommend the JOM coilovers?
Not the best but they got the job done. Plus I would not spend much on a car that’s worth not that much so I’d say I’d get them again for that car:
@@ajetauto5592 i have a 2012 2.5 vw bug would you recommend it ? same platform as the mk5 jetta.
2.5L is a tank! Only problems I’ve had with my Jetta is electrical (and a lot of them) 😂
what electrical problems??? my Jetta 2.5 turns on flawlessly and other times I turn the key and only the battery works.... no crank or anything in the engine, just dead silence... any advice???
Haha for reals huh
@@poochiiieewhat did it ended up being
My ‘09 2.5l MK5 has 136k miles. I don’t have money for another car. It doesn’t leave me stranded. Even though I went underwater on repairs alone, I’ll fix it as long as I need to. Parts that have failed on mine:
2019: ABS module, VCG, & serpentine belt (dealer)
2020: Alternator (Indy shop)
2021: PCV diaphragm (Indy shop), oil cap gasket (DIY)
2022: vacuum pump delete kit (DIY), MAP sensor (Indy shop)
2023: belt tensioner (DIY)
2024: valve cover kit (DIY)
All of these repairs have happened between 119k miles and 136k miles. At least once or twice a year, I need to fix something. The main problem with this car is oil leaks, but that’s not a big deal. The prices that the shop charge can be pretty expensive though. If I could do it all over again, I would DIY everything on the car, and service transmission every 64k km/40k miles.
My transmission was never serviced until 120k miles, which was around the mileage when it started to shift rough. Six months later after I do a drain and fill, it started slipping anyway.
I’ve been changing the oil every 4k miles or 5 months with 5W40 Leichtlauf High Tech Engine Oil (5 Liter) - Liqui Moly LM2332.
Upcoming fix 2024: OFHG (Indy shop)
I’m got my trans replacement out of at ‘09 Jetta 2.5l. Trans has less than 30k miles on it for $700. I’ll be doing a drain and fill every 40k miles with OEM Febi Bilstein G055025A2. Many use Valvoline- maxlife, but I feel comfortable sticking with OEM fluid.
I took the alternator out from the bottom. First remove the a/c pump (It spins around out of the way without removing the lines or freon.).
Same here
Whats Up owner of a Mk6 Jetta 2.5 mk5's my opinion worst Jetta's out 🤷
Valve cover gasket & diaphragm is one piece did mine when i had a small leak
That Brake vacuum delete not too expensive but it took me 4 hours Dolo,& i lost 3 10mm sockets 🤣found 2 right away& the 3rd 1 i found 2 years later
The red top coils are more durable so you dont have change them as often
Good looking car there. Love the GTI grill. I thought the MK5 was best looking one. I have a MK6 wagon, also w/ IE stage 1. with a P-flow intake and the same upgraded coil packs as yours. Mine unfortunately is an auto tranny, but in manual shift mode, still a lot of fun. Car is surprisingly quick. With a GTI suspension, a chassis brace, performance tires and brakes it is riot to drive. And dead nuts reliable even though I beat on it. (but religiously maintained.....the VW spec synthetic oil is changed every 3K miles) I bought used and dealer had to replace crank position sensor before I took delivery. I had to replace the PCV valve assembly......and that's it.
3k might be a little short of a change interval. Obviously it won't hurt, but 5k is more than fine since VW recommends oil change every 10k miles. Depends on the oil you pick too, but you already said you pick VW spec oil. I was mis-informed by a friend that it doesn't matter, but once I switched to VW spec, my engine runs smoother (than without it) and feels a little bit healthier. Unfortunately I did run over 30k miles without it, so hopefully nothing bad happened, but I did change oil at half recommended interval at 5k miles rather than 10k VW recommendation.
Have first part failure in 9 years of owning this car. Got the EPC light and loss of power. Code scanner reveals bad throttle position sensor, which means new throttle body. Got part....goes in tomorrow.
Lol top comment: 181k miles... what a fucking joke 390k mile toyota supremacy germans stay losing
to replace ALT remove AC compressor from the bottom of car 1.5 hr
You didn't have waterpump fail at 180kmi?
Yes the water pump on the Jetta was still the original to my knowledge. They are not common for failing on the 2.5 but are a lot more common on the 2.0tsi.
Hey your video is probably the most useful video I watched about there’s cars if you can I have a couple questions I think you can help me with thanks
Hi. Where I can get the intake air? amazon?
What code did you get when the secondary air injection failed. My car fails when i go from highspeeds to low speeds the car jerks
I don’t remember but it’s easy to find on the internet. It seams by that symptom that you have other factors coming into play. I’d check out other things that could cause jerking. Secondary air injection issues are mainly only related to cold starts.
Where did you get the emblem for that grill?
We had the same in the motor but I have headers and the full exhaust system and suddenly the check engine turn on do you have a clue I have since new and only have 60,000 kms so it’s 2016 almost brand new but I don’t know what Happens according to the scanner the Lambda oxygen sensor it’s on but no clue what’s wrong ? 😞
My jetta is stalling when I give it alittle gas and i slowly let of the clutch it just dyes unless I give it more rpm but when I am driving and I am on the gas alittle bit it studders
No problems just PM maintenance oil change at 5k Mobil 1 0W-40 all filters change Mann, Daily driver We have 2009 Jetta 2.5 5 speed with140k and 2010 Sportwagen 2.5 auto 80k, 2009 installed Valeo single mass clutch kit at 105k miles and Red line MT-90, 2 bad coil pack each happened around 65k I attribute to OEM spark plug worn center electrode it will add strain to coil pack, replaced all with red coil pack and NGK 7743, wagon Borla 2" exhaust add Vibrant 1102 center muffler no more drone, Eibach sway bar kit 8598.320, conti's 235-45-17, wheel 17x 7.5 45mm offset , no tire rub, replaced drive belt idler pulley with Dayco (1) 89017 and (3) 89161 both car pleasure to drive wagon NY to NC 3 x a Yr. auto head light switch, Crack sensor both car AutoZone, ECS Tunnel Brace- prevent Cat theft, tighten intake manifold bolts use 6mm bit (harbor freight bit set) on Milwaukee 1/4" x 12" drive bit extension (48-32-4512) Black tape bit to extension, rear cat 02 sensor Bosch 16002 if plug don't click lift slight rear tab on sensor plug and slip into each other. GTI front brake conversion next, stock spring and struts smooth ride no need in tearing up the bottom of car.
My ‘09 2.5l MK5 has 136k miles. I don’t have money for another car. It never left me stranded. Even though I went underwater on repairs alone, I’ll fix it as long as I need to. Parts that have failed on mine:
2019: ABS module, VCG, & serpentine belt (dealer)
2020: Alternator (Indy shop)
2021: PCV diaphragm (Indy shop), oil cap gasket (DIY)
2022: vacuum pump delete kit (DIY), MAP sensor (Indy shop)
2023: belt tensioner (DIY)
2024: valve cover kit (DIY)
All of these repairs have happened between 119k miles and 136k miles. At least once or twice a year, I need to fix something. The main problem with this car is oil leaks, but that’s not a big deal. The prices that the shop charge can be pretty expensive though. If I could do it all over again, I would DIY everything on the car, and service transmission every 64k km/40k miles.
My transmission was never serviced until 120k miles, which was around the mileage when it started to shift rough. Six months later after I do a drain and fill, it started slipping anyway.
I’ve been changing the oil every 4k miles or 5 months with 5W40 Leichtlauf High Tech Engine Oil (5 Liter) - Liqui Moly LM2332.
Upcoming fix 2024: OFHG (Indy shop)
I’m got my trans replacement out of at ‘09 Jetta 2.5l. Trans has less than 30k miles on it for $700. I’ll be doing a drain and fill every 40k miles with OEM Febi Bilstein G055025A2. Many use Valvoline- maxlife, but I feel comfortable sticking with OEM fluid.
Ever since I installed an IE short ram intake, I got a cel light and code p0171. Do you think a Bosch mass air flow sensor will turn off my cel light? I did install a cheap aftermarket sensor, not realizing I should have kept my oem one.
I have a 2014 model 2.5 mk6 which is an auto and after some time in traffic it shakes the cabin when increasing its rpm slowly from 2to3 gear , and after sometime it shows the 🔧 at the section where writes PRND
After i turn the car off and on again it removes the 🔧
I have checked it for tranmission issues with computer and it doesnt show any error on the tranmission
It shows only this P0106 and P2096
Do you think this two are related to the transmission? And in your opinion what should i do?
It doesn’t sound like the code is from the transmission. (I googled it) It may be, (and I’m not a mechanic) however I think your engine trouble codes may be causing the power output to suffer and if you fixed whatever is causing those codes to pop up. Perhaps it will run better regardless of what gear you are in. Aside from not being a professional mechanic, I also refuse to drive automatic transmissions and for all I know maybe your transmission is having problems on top of what else is wrong with the car. I don’t think that’s the case. It sounds like your engine is struggling to make gradual power and the shifting issues could just be a side effect.
@@Emoralis jesus what a word salad...... LMAO...... I love how you think you helped him even though you didnt add anything.........😊
@@MiguelGarcia-vj7oo it was a word salad. I was probably falling asleep. However I just google the codes again and it’s likely a fuel trim issue and has nothing to do with the transmission.
I have the secondary air injection failure. I get a code P0420 which is rpm above threshold. Mechanic said it’s happening before the first exhaust sensor. So gotta get that replaced
For the grille did you end up using the original badge?
Great video to watch before you buy one of these cars, I own one, an dude knows what he’s talking about. Sit back and listen lol
Very good video. I have 2011 Jetta 2.5 L. On colder days, when I start the car, it stutters and few times turns off. The rpm will be around 950 - 1000 on initial start and then after a few seconds stutters between 500 and 800, will stay like that for about 5 seconds and then goes to about 1000 rpm. This behaviour is only observed when the temperature is below 3°C, especially in the +3°C to -3°C range. Took it to the dealership 3 times. They changed my crank position sensor, fuel pump relay and driver door actuator. The scanning tool don't show any codes. The dealership says they couldn't replicate the issue. So they will suggest me to change different sensors every time. I am fed up now.
Do you have any idea about this problem?
Once the engine is warm this doesn't happen.
Many things could be making your issues. If you don’t know I’d go over the basics. Maybe even replace stuff that’s easy like coil packs and spark plugs first to rule them out. Could be dirty or faulty fuel injectors.
Honestly it could be a link to your secondary air injections system. If it’s not working right. If the secondary air pump isn’t working the car will run really rich on start up and cold temperatures would put even more fuel in.
Just my two cents. Hope it helps in some way.
alternator isn't a pain if you take it out the bottom
I should’ve got those 17s
Did you add fog lights, also if you did how?
Hey where are the knock sensors, getting a low bank#2, I can't find the dam thing
I think they are under the car on the back side of the engine block. Like under where the exhaust manifold is and above the oil pan.
I might be wrong tho.
bro your videos bout the Jetta are dope, I JUST got this car two days ago and I wanna do light mods to it like u already hahaha
Great run down!
Sorry the question is l have to buy all the pedal
Thanks for sharing friend.👍🏽
hey man
i have the exact same mods done to mine, and the oil filter housing breather tube on mine is broken.
i have no intention of taking the intake manifold as my engine has 270k miles on it.
any way you can share on how you did it without removing it?
I have a 2007 2.5 has 340k miles on it still going. I have replaced altenator and starter and the issues you spoke about. I am starting to slip going into 3rd gear.
Dude that’s crazy impressive you’ve got that many miles on the car! Gives me hope :,)
When day said the sensor pedal is not working and one of the motor l have one 2010 l buy 19 day with him start no power no acceleration same 2.5 lt
I think what you said was “ do I need to buy a pedal” well if the sensor in it is bad then yes. They should not be too much. Sorry it was hard to try to understand your post.
Thanks
When ur alternator went out did it mess with the electrical in the car?
I mean yes, when it went out I was loosing all electrical power slowly until the car finally died. For example all the lights started to go dim. When replaced all issues went away obviously because the car now has electric power again.
But no a bad alternator should not permanently cause any issues. If that’s what you mean.
@@ajetauto5592 o because the battery light isn’t in but the car isnt charging it dies down after a certain amount of time
@@allahcemen9864 hmm
If the battery light is not on but your still loosing electrical power it could still be an alternator. The bulb in the bash might not work idk. Mine went out at 100k miles and 175k miles. That or the battery will not take a charge and the battery is bad. One can kill the other so in most cases I’ve replaced both when I needed an alternator. I know $$$ it’s pricey. Might just have to take it to the dealer if you can’t figure it out they can run special test. That my last resort.
@@ajetauto5592 ok thanks i have a brand new battery in there ima just buy a new alternator and c if thats fixess it
I’ve literally had every issue with this model except for my engine 😭..
This engine is fantastic. Likewise, mine has been bulletproof in my 2008 Rabbit with over 162K miles on it. No leaks, no oil consumption, no overheating, no mechanical problems of any kind! The sound of this I5 engine accelerating is like a wild cat. And yet, when someone sees my car, the first thing they ask is, "Is it a GTI?" When I say that it is not and that my engine is much more reliable, they look at me as if I'm out of my mind.
I’m surprised you didn’t go over the front fender rust issue with the foam and leaves.
Hope to see more 2.5 vids!!
do you work on your car yourself or to you take it to a shop?
I do all maintenance and repairs on my cars myself. In rare cases I’ll take it to a shop if I cannot physically do the work. Like if I’m out of town and don’t have any of my tools.
Hey love the video have a stage one IE 2009 2.5 Jetta and this was really good info. Have to ask about the front and rear lip if you could provide a link or something
If I’m honest the front a rear lip are just universal from eBay. Not bad but for the font you will want to screw it in and not just use the tape it comes with. It would just fall off later. The rear make sure to use a heat gun to make the 3m tape stick for good. Comes in a roll.
I’m thinking of tuning my 2010 golf after I swap the exhaust.
How is the tune? Hp estimates?
Hello, I'm having trouble find the hose you mentioned at 6:40
Somehow my Jetta is missing this hose.
It’s really hard to explain where exactly it goes. But it goes to the secondary air injection pump. It’s under the intake manifold way in there. Luckily my hands are small and I barely could fit them to put it into place down there. If I had to do it again I’d just take the intake man off. It’s too hard to find. If you don’t have the hose you probably won’t find where it goes. It’s called like the oil filter breather hose.
Part number 07K103558C
@@ajetauto5592 thank you so so much! I'll look for it now.
Bro, I've never seen so many problems with one vehicle but claim it's a solid reliable vehicle lol
My mk5 rabbit has been bulletproof. Purge valve, and cat downpipe sprung a leak that's it, 125k miles, 2008. Bone stock, a to b car though. Gets no abuse.
My ‘09 2.5l MK5 has 136k miles. I don’t have money for another car. It never left me stranded. Even though I went underwater on repairs alone, I’ll fix it as long as I need to. Parts that have failed on mine:
2019: ABS module, VCG, & serpentine belt (dealer)
2020: Alternator (Indy shop)
2021: PCV diaphragm (Indy shop), oil cap gasket (DIY)
2022: vacuum pump delete kit (DIY), MAP sensor (Indy shop)
2023: belt tensioner (DIY)
2024: valve cover kit (DIY)
All of these repairs have happened between 119k miles and 136k miles. At least once or twice a year, I need to fix something. The main problem with this car is oil leaks, but that’s not a big deal. The prices that the shop charge can be pretty expensive though. If I could do it all over again, I would DIY everything on the car, and service transmission every 64k km/40k miles.
My transmission was never serviced until 120k miles, which was around the mileage when it started to shift rough. Six months later after I do a drain and fill, it started slipping anyway.
I’ve been changing the oil every 4k miles or 5 months with 5W40 Leichtlauf High Tech Engine Oil (5 Liter) - Liqui Moly LM2332.
Upcoming fix 2024: OFHG (Indy shop)
I’m got my trans replacement out of at ‘09 Jetta 2.5l. Trans has less than 30k miles on it for $700. I’ll be doing a drain and fill every 40k miles with OEM Febi Bilstein G055025A2. Many use Valvoline- maxlife, but I feel comfortable sticking with OEM fluid.
I just hit 120k miles on my 2012 jetta with the same engine at the least, haven’t had 1 issue. Not a single part has needed replacing since I bought it at the dealership. Keep in mind I also got this car at 16 so little speed demon was the owner, I ran her HARD. Nowadays i definitely drive a lot more chill and only punch it at meets. I’ve worked at carmax and driven/test driven every car you can name. No car will come close to how well a jetta holds up.
Is it worth buying?
Yes it is definitely for a daily. One of the most reliable VWs. Not that fast but can be fun if modified. Just don’t expect to win any races. But the sounds of the 5 cylinder is absinthe best part.
@@ajetauto5592 I just bought a 2006 Jetta today
Have you ever had an issue with hard shifting at low speeds ?
Yes I have. It’s just worn out shifter bushings and stuff like that. Changing the trans fluid also helps some when shifting in the cold.
@@ajetauto5592 it’s an automatic, but I took it to a shop and they told me I needed a new transmission. Which it only shifts weird sometimes, it’s not everytime I speed up. So my dad doesn’t believe it’s that. He thinks it could be a sensor, or something to do with the computer. Because it’s not all the time.
@@ashleypeck4540 ok I didn’t know it was an automatic.
It could be that it is a sensor or an issue with what is called the mecatronic which is the brain of the transmission. Or worst case you need a new transmission because it can be cheaper to replace it rather than trying to repair it. What it comes to automatic transmission issues it’s best to be left to a proper shop. A lot of that needs a specialist.
how much did you sell for
4,300$ USD originally listed it for 4,500. needed to get rid of it fast when I bought the other GTI.
How much was the valve cover gasket replacement?
If you do it yourself it’s around 20 dollars for the gasket. If you take it to a shop maybe like 200 to m guessing with labor. I don’t know for sure but I did it for about 20-30 bucks. Must expensive part of the job is the tools if you don’t have them. Like you’re going to need a torque wrench with can be about 50-80 dollars. That’s why I invest in having all the tools I will ever need so it makes jobs cheap in the future. If you don’t have any tools look at what you will need and buy accordingly. For valve cover maybe about 200 bucks in tools if your starting out. Tools will work for you in the future for many jobs to come. Long rant lol
@@ajetauto5592 this is the best video I have ever seen for this car. You just solved all my problems!!
@@ajetauto5592 where did you order the emblem for that grill??
Where are u From?
Indiana USA
@@ajetauto5592 i saw that the Brand are jetta here are called Bora i think that are some diferents 😳
Love my ie stage 2 mk6 👏
Hell yeah I just installed the short runner intake and stage 2 flash and it's a world of difference. Pulls all the way threw 7200.
I just got one I love it