Having a usable amount of electricity on the go makes a pickup truck so much more useful. These vehicles are meant to be tools, and this opens up a new bag of tricks. #trucks #ram1500 #inverter
Love your videos! Had four 4th gen Rams, then a Gladiator and now a 5th gen Ram. Got a 12VDC fridge/freezer for Christmas and have been scratching my brain trying to figure out the best way to power it. Thank you for the time and detail you put into your channel :)
It's 2GA wire up to 6ft...if you have a longer run, just increase the size/diameter of your wire. I would go 0GA and never look back....fused of course. You should have a fuse/breaker mounted as close to the battery as possible...so that in the event of a overload, you only have 3-4 inches of wire that can melt down before the fuse trips.
Another great video, I have the same truck a 2022 Laramie. I got the factory inverter but the sport hood was deleted, I would have like to have had that, lol
Nice video! You should really have run a negative wire directly to the battery too. There will be quite a load on that existing negative wire from the battery to the frame. Also, I believe that is a modified sine wave inverter and it may not play nice with electronic items. Still very handy though!
Did that Craftsman/Black & Decker drill come out of a Sears & Roebuck catalogue? Where is all that fancy Kobalt stuff?? Haha! FYI- there is a plastic plate with one stud/nut holding it in, located just above the brake pedal bracket that you can take out and drill holes in to pass cables through. I believe it was designed for the passthru of the snowplow control option. Worked great for all my lighting controllers and has been on the firewall since the Gen4 models.
I also believe the wire size jumper cables you got look like 2/0 gauge not 2AWG. 2/0 is .365 thousands compared to 2 awg at .257. And thats without the sheathing.
Hmmm. That 1000w continuous output is at 120vAC. That means the output is 8.3 amps. Or double that for a second at full surge. It should never need 150 amps DC to do that. 2 awg seems huge! Lol. I no that's what it says but that's starter wire! Haha.
@OFFRD invertersrus say 1500 watt continuous use 4 awg wire. 2 awg is fine but that stuff is 2/0 or as some say #2. Which is quite thicker. And its not going to be going full power all the time. My Ram has 2 400 watt 120v plugs built in and runs my refrigerator constantly for days without even getting warm.
Great video. Could you have just grounded the inverter to a seat bolt thats already in the floor instead of sanding off the paint and rrunning the self tapper?
Nice video,and nice toolbox
Love your videos! Had four 4th gen Rams, then a Gladiator and now a 5th gen Ram. Got a 12VDC fridge/freezer for Christmas and have been scratching my brain trying to figure out the best way to power it. Thank you for the time and detail you put into your channel :)
Bravo! Nice truck too!
It's 2GA wire up to 6ft...if you have a longer run, just increase the size/diameter of your wire. I would go 0GA and never look back....fused of course. You should have a fuse/breaker mounted as close to the battery as possible...so that in the event of a overload, you only have 3-4 inches of wire that can melt down before the fuse trips.
Awesome video..... thanks so much for the info 😅
Another great video, I have the same truck a 2022 Laramie. I got the factory inverter but the sport hood was deleted, I would have like to have had that, lol
Nice video! You should really have run a negative wire directly to the battery too. There will be quite a load on that existing negative wire from the battery to the frame. Also, I believe that is a modified sine wave inverter and it may not play nice with electronic items. Still very handy though!
Dang stealership
Buddy i would have mounted it on the inside of the box , and made a trap door to get to the outlets. But thats just a personal preference.
Did that Craftsman/Black & Decker drill come out of a Sears & Roebuck catalogue? Where is all that fancy Kobalt stuff?? Haha! FYI- there is a plastic plate with one stud/nut holding it in, located just above the brake pedal bracket that you can take out and drill holes in to pass cables through. I believe it was designed for the passthru of the snowplow control option. Worked great for all my lighting controllers and has been on the firewall since the Gen4 models.
You give my drill too much credit. It's a Harbor Freight drill I bought for $18 and I've beat on it for two years without a hiccup! :D
@@4-LOWhow'd you crimp your lugs 🔩 securely?
how much stand by time do you get using one battery?
Does it drain the battery little, when not in use?
Did you not run the negative to the battery? Just grounded it to frame? Or was this separate ground wire?
I also believe the wire size jumper cables you got look like 2/0 gauge not 2AWG. 2/0 is .365 thousands compared to 2 awg at .257. And thats without the sheathing.
Yup. Too bad, #2 would have done the job (and easier to work with)
are these loud when in use?
The inverter has fuse, right? Why need circuit breaker?
Hmmm. That 1000w continuous output is at 120vAC. That means the output is 8.3 amps. Or double that for a second at full surge. It should never need 150 amps DC to do that. 2 awg seems huge! Lol. I no that's what it says but that's starter wire! Haha.
But it's getting that source from 12V, not 120V, so the amperage is MUCH higher.
@OFFRD invertersrus say 1500 watt continuous use 4 awg wire. 2 awg is fine but that stuff is 2/0 or as some say #2. Which is quite thicker. And its not going to be going full power all the time. My Ram has 2 400 watt 120v plugs built in and runs my refrigerator constantly for days without even getting warm.
Great video. Could you have just grounded the inverter to a seat bolt thats already in the floor instead of sanding off the paint and rrunning the self tapper?
Yes
Hey buddy
So you just ground it to the frame..