EPISODE 47 - 355 STROKER ENGINE BUILD ON THE 1982 HOLDEN WB UTE
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 4 ต.ค. 2024
- This episode i drag out the old engine and crack it open to see what im in for. The mission, to take the tired 306 holden engine and upgrade with a 355 Stroker kit to take it to the next level. Can i pull it off? Not sure, but theres only one way to find out!
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you can port the gallery and open them up and you will get 500 hp
I bought all my rotating assembly, cam kit, gasket kit and roller rockers from Luke for my 355 in my VR for a very reasonable price. He was great to help you with what you needed. Keen to see this build, not enough Holden engine builds on youtube.
Yeah he seems to be a very genuine bloke who has dfeintely gone above and beyond to assist me.
yeah hes a top bloke. I was lucky enough to also live in SA and met up to get my parts and picked his brain for a while haha. my engine specs are similar to yours but I've got a h286 cam. should be going on the dyno the end of this month or sometime next month 👌
Hey Barnesy, I have been searching the net to watch a 355 Stroker step by step build for ages. Really looking forward to these episodes mate! Keep it up!!
Cheers Matt, i will try my best to make sure it comes out smoothly!
You're a man who isn't afraid to dive into the deep end, kudos to you..Reading through the comments though I think a drive or two too Adelaide might be the wise choice and get the shop to assemble the block...One of those situations where you have to get it right..Put in a lot of graft in the project, have a Holliday do a travel vid ..
Thanks mate, yeah I agree, I reckon I will do that for sure. It will be an adventure!
I would get the block decked and heads skimmed too mate. Also the center oil wells, the holes above the cam, get them ground out and cleaned up coz the casting on these blocks left some awful extra steel behind.
I'm pretty sure Tony at Knight engines is going to do all that as part of his build process so it's in good hands. cheers
Another great video. I don't know much about engines either but with a lot of help from the bloke I bought it from, we are reassembling my engine next weekend so I'm in the same boat.
I've had the machining done and it's been sitting here wrapped up for about 3 months. Will be very cool to see it assembled.
Thanks Ray, Must be exciting to finally get to the assembly stage, good luck with it!
Loving this build, I've been watching since the start and you make it look so easy, It's definitely inspired me to get onto the HJ in my shed, Keep it up mate!
Thanks for watching! Go drag that ute out and get started!
cant beat the sound of a iron block. great choice mate
Great job mate. Can't believe you got those headers off without snapping the bolts off in the block 🤬. Getting that bore measurement exact is a really specialist job , lucky you found someone to help. 400hp is heaps for Sunday cruiser and will sound great. Looking forward to next episode. Cheers
Thanks Duncan, yeah they came off pretty easily, probably as it's been restored once already and garaged for years since.
this motor is amazingly Clean for a 308, 20 thou over is great
So i was right in thinking it was in good knick, yes it's nice someone bored it out correctly so it can have another shelf life.
Great work mate... Keep pushing forward
Jay at Fluidrive is the man to see about that auto.
can't wait to see the new vid mate.
Yes mate you can go to 060", Gem engines from Repco went out to 080" but I suggest that's end of motor unless you sleeve all bores. If it ran on gas suggest you determine compression ratio, also just be aware if it was set up full gas you advancement on timing is different to petrol. Your pistons appear to be 020" oversize.
Those shafts are push rods, measure total length and by set with 08" wall thickness, your broken bridge cradle probably get set unless you get one off wreck engine.
When you rebuild make sure there is no scalloping at top of stroke, on refit make certain you ring gap is correct to OEM and set gap as directed by manufacturer on opposing side to thrust side.
Your cam is determined by you flow on inlet port and your exhaust flow should be as high a percentile as possible to the inlet i.e. 85%+.
Hey Mark, Although this all actually makes sense to me now i am getting the bottom end assembled so i don't miss anything like that for now. There's too much at stake to stuff it at this point. I would like to do a standard V8 refresh myself after this though as i reckon i could manage that. The stroker is just adding that much more compelxity that for a first go it's risky to get it all spot on first go.
Engine stands are also good for servicing a trans while its out of the car
Hey bud, good choice. Try come racing for performance parts for stroker. Highly recommend there alloy heads, cranks and special gapped manifold that fits under bonnet of my hq coupe. 🇦🇺💪470hp 460lb torque.,street engine with only a hydraulic flat tappet cam Ps theyre in moorabbin vic. Tell them what horse power yuo want and they have a dyno tested result for parts needed.
Thanks Matt, i have heard of COME racing, they definitely have some great kits. I have already commited to the SCAT kit however. cheers
When you reassemble your motor do not torque the two inner head bolt to the full torque it will break out the casting on the inside of the valley
Will keep that in mind, thanks
Hey Barnesy. When I built my 355. The scat and eagle cranks were known to snap in areas. This was due to some bad castings. I ended up going a harrop for peace of mind. Also this was 12 years ago so I would like to think that scat sorted out this issue. Also I'm sure your guy is all over it but go chev journals so you can use chev rods and pistons.
Hey Shenke, Thanks mate, i have heard varying reports but i think SCAT have sorted out their manufacturing now as they sell alot of the kits and economies of scale i guess mean they can make them for less. Im no sure, theres so many options it's daunting but at the end of the day you just have to work with the budget you have and try and get the best quality you can. I will ask about the Chev journals as well. thanks mate
@@BarnesysBuilds Good luck with it Mate. If you want to know what parts I used in mine and I also have a dyno sheet then let me know.
Thanks mate, I might pick your brain when I get further into, congrats on the channel, it's flying along now!
Hey mate great video. Good to see your honest about your skills and that your giving it a crack. I find it funny that your stripping the engine with it still on the engine crane even though you brought an engine stand. Do your back a favour and get it on the stand. I would suggest stripping the block and getting it chemically cleaned, crack tested and measured at a good engine shop where the have good measuring tools before you choose to stick with .020 or go out to .030
Yeah cheers mate, I plan to get it on the stand but just didn't have the right length bolts! I am going out to 0.30 as I reckon it's worth starting with a fresh bore. Need a good engine shop to go to. Otherwise I'm going to drive to adelaide where the kit comes from
G’day Barnesy, for your T350 id recommend ATS Automatics, Adams the man to see located at 78 Grant St, Goornong Vic close to Bendigo. Hes done a few boxes for a few of my mates in their Burnout cars and never had an issue and they are copping punishment 👍🏼
Ok great, thanks for the contact. Cheers
@@BarnesysBuilds what he said, Adam is close to your neck of the woods and knows what he's doing.
The block will need to be relieved for the 355 crank to fit the later blocks are factory clearanced
Yes i did know they needed clearance which the machine shop will do when they bore out the blcok. cheers
Yeah maximum oversized you can go with the 308 is 0.060” and even then they can have cooling issues.
Mate I know Luke... you're in Adelaide I assume? That guy knows his stuff mate. Another big local asset is Tony from Knights engines. He is one of the best 304 308 355 383 engine builders you'll come across.👍
Hey Pete, I'm actually in Victoria but been talking to Luke through the Facebook page and also been talking to Tony so things are progressing!
As you may have already discovered the sky is the limit with engine choices. May I suggest if you want to do it yourself work with what you have, If the motor ran good before and bores look clean, hone the bores, re-ring it and new bearing's if needed and install biggest came to suit your set up and a new carby if needed, job down. Or just clean put it back together and use it. When you have finished this project its less then a days work to pull the motor out and drop it off at the engine builders to install a stroker kit. Don't spend lots of money stroking this engine unless its done properly it could cost you a lot more in the end. The bottom end needs to built by an engine builder and heads to flow and compression ratio to suit your set up. P.S I agree with your choice keeping with the 308 and with stroking it if you go down that path. keep it all Aussie built.
Hey Mark,
Yes i have been shopping around for the stroker build solution and although i have learnt a lot the price for all the machining work is adding up to a fair bit. I was going to keep the HQ heads to save money but as i am now aware in order to get good flow you need to spend around $1200 just on head work to get the flow. So basically now im stuck,,, I want the 355 build as it would be fantastic content and a learning experience but i also don't have 12k to spent on an old 308...
Such a great channel mate! Enjoying the ride with you! Mines a VL 304 trying to keep it as solid to its bones as possible as well... ultimately A HQ wagon after this slow slow build plenum rust is daunting now we all know what to look out for... Legend of I can squeeze upper to use Kyper for the boys to use I will... Time to send out the sample packs mate haha. I'm about to do the fuel tank Reno👍
Thanks mate! Nice to hear you've got a couple of projects on the go! Thanks for potentially pushing kyper mate, Samples are expensive to send out for free so I usually only give them out after a meeting etc. You interested in metal x or the concrete blades?
G'Day Barnsey. Glad to hear you're not going for the LS swap - great engine but a bit yawn now as everyone and their dog is doing them. A few thoughts/suggestions - take the block to the machine shop and get it hot tanked - while it's there have them do a proper measure of your bores, it's a false economy to pass on this if it needs it as you are going with a stroker kit - if it needs to go to .030" over you'll find it won't break the bank to get it done (well, it shouldn't, not sure what Aussie shops charge but here in S. California it's about $20/25 per bore).
If you are looking at roller rockers I would ask about using Yella Terra - they are a good Aussie company and a quick look shows the price to be about the same you mentioned. I have Yella Terra in my 1970 Rover P6 build and plan on using them in my Ford big block when I get round to it. I also went with a hydraulic roller cam - if you're already doing them cam it's not a huge jump from a flat tappet to a roller and it's quick horsepower - plus it's not nearly so nerve wracking when it comes to first start and break in.
Of course, like any improvements these things cost money and I know you have a budget but, speaking from experience here, it's so much easier to make these changes now before it goes back in the ute. Still, it's your build and I respect your choices - you're doing a great job.
Let me know if you need any help with parts here in the US.
Thanks Alan, yes defintely will be taking it to the machine shop and getting it bored out to 30 thou, it makes sense to start fresh. Im not sure about the brand of Roller rockers, it sounds familiar though. Thanks for the feedback!. cheers
You got valves with the springs pushrods on the other side..easy mistake..
The kit should come with a trunion upgrade .
Hi mate, im not 100percent sure but i think the 020 stamp on top of the piston means the block has been bored to 2000 over. If GEM reconditioners had gotten hold of it it would have been bored to 6000over and useless.
yep
Funny, i bought a second hand Gem 253 and it did over 250,000klm with no issues, must of been a wednesday engine.
the best way is take the block to a machine shop get it measured then order the parts they say it needs
you might be lucky and clean it up by honing it but most times they need boring
the crank has most like been machined before so you will need under size bearings
honestly if i were you i'd get a shop to assemble the block its easy to mess up if you haven't built a engine before
thoses tappet bridges are very hard to find new i have some new ones here i'm not using i can help you out with if you cant get any i had my head machined to fit after market adjustable tappets to do away with thoses bridges
try auto surplus for pistons & rings there usually good of prices
The bloke that sells the kits has a machine shop builder that has put heaps of these kits in and so was going to get him to do the machine work and clearences etc. Only issue he is in Adelaide. Im getting a new roller rocker kit so i think that would come with new saddles?
@@BarnesysBuilds i think you will find if you fit roller rockers they are different to the standard rockers in how they mount they use guide plates and studs most times to mount them check with the builder but on mine they had to machine the posts down to fit adjustable tappets
yea we get our machining down in adelaide at southcotts engines
adelaides only 4 hours from us so not too far away
355, should be nice and stout!
Saying LS’s sound good is a lie, you can’t beat the sound of a iron lion
Bore gauge or inside micrometer
308 is Holden only V8 sound, check with your mechanic mate about the valve seats for unleaded fuel
Correct! I'm going to get VN heads now so it will all change i think.
If Luke Schiller is helping you then you should’nt have an issue and will achieve what your after 👌🏼
Yeah he's been a great help, very patient and reliable.
Very easy engine to build as far as v8 go
Look at come racing they do kits
I have seen the COME 355 kits, bit more expensive but might be in the pistons, ive heard SCAT are great as well for the price.
Spend the money on heads and valve train mate! That's where the performance gains are. Wasting your time stroking it with stock heads. Do some more research mate, someone's always Gunna sell U shit U don't need.
Yeah cheers mate, i might go the VN heads after all as your right.
Sorry mate ill wait until the end of the episode before i comment next time. what do you want for the air con parts?
All good mate! I don't know what they are even worth, I will have to have a look and get back to you, what do you need?
I’ve seen Holden blocks out to .080 thou
Surely thats pushing the friendship with the block at that point?
Hey barney where can we find luke i want to ask him a question about a stroker kit for vt 3.8l v6
Hey Zac, you can contact him on lukeschiller@hotmail.com
Is this a prank? If yes ha haa you don’t have a clue what you’re doing
Yes that's correct I didn't know, but I do now, it's called learning.