These have auto down. The motor has a built in power draw limit circuit. It can be bypassed if you're good with electronics or simply replacing the motor fixes most issues. It's this built in motor relay that causes the motor to stop working. It usually first becomes apparent after a couple up/down cycles, then progressively gets worse until the motor will only move the window an inch then not respond for 30 seconds, then move an inch, not respond for 30 sec, etc etc A good way to go is to get a driver's side REAR door window motor. They are usually like brand new. You can also bring a small battery to the junk yard to test. I've even used a cell phone battery to test a window motor, though I'd suggest something like a little lithium jump start battery. Those are very very useful.
Many thanks Tech. I just learnt something new today and I appreciate that. My 3 other windows are 23 years old and still working on my Corolla 1998 LE 1.8L. My driver power aut window is the one again giving me problems even though its motor was already replaced years ago. I understand this is the one we use the most. I will see if even the old motor make it work after cleaning up the grooves first. Thanks again.
In the power junction that you filmed 2 grey color relays, the one in the bottom is for fuel pump, and I pulled it before and fuel pump wouldn't pump. I did that to de-pressurize the fuel line to replace my fuel injectors. Therefore, I believe the grey relay on the top is probably for the power window. Haynes manual says each window has its own circuit breaker, but I am not sure which is which. My driver side front window moves a bit and die, and I tried to lube the regulator and new switch, but same problem. I still need to figure out what's wrong with it, and I will try to swing the door and see if it's wire problem.
I have the same car but my issue is that when I roll the window down it's normal but trying to roll it back up, it doesn't work right away. I have to give it a few minutes to even move it an inch or two and repeat the process. One of the windows in the backseat doesn't roll down either. Could this be considered a fuse related issue or something else?
@Stephon Thomas there's a short somewhere on the positive wire on mine. Test this to see if it's your problem but running power to it. I just used the cigarette lighter
These have auto down. The motor has a built in power draw limit circuit. It can be bypassed if you're good with electronics or simply replacing the motor fixes most issues.
It's this built in motor relay that causes the motor to stop working. It usually first becomes apparent after a couple up/down cycles, then progressively gets worse until the motor will only move the window an inch then not respond for 30 seconds, then move an inch, not respond for 30 sec, etc etc
A good way to go is to get a driver's side REAR door window motor. They are usually like brand new. You can also bring a small battery to the junk yard to test. I've even used a cell phone battery to test a window motor, though I'd suggest something like a little lithium jump start battery. Those are very very useful.
Many thanks Tech. I just learnt something new today and I appreciate that. My 3 other windows are 23 years old and still working on my Corolla 1998 LE 1.8L. My driver power aut window is the one again giving me problems even though its motor was already replaced years ago. I understand this is the one we use the most. I will see if even the old motor make it work after cleaning up the grooves first. Thanks again.
This was very helpful for me today. Thank you!
Great video. Thanks for sharing
Life saver 🙌
In the power junction that you filmed 2 grey color relays, the one in the bottom is for fuel pump, and I pulled it before and fuel pump wouldn't pump. I did that to de-pressurize the fuel line to replace my fuel injectors. Therefore, I believe the grey relay on the top is probably for the power window.
Haynes manual says each window has its own circuit breaker, but I am not sure which is which. My driver side front window moves a bit and die, and I tried to lube the regulator and new switch, but same problem. I still need to figure out what's wrong with it, and I will try to swing the door and see if it's wire problem.
I have two small black relays on the top, and a big grey one on the bottom, which one is for the window?
Thank you!!!!!!!
Can I asking??? Are Toyota ae101 power window fuse front and back same use 1 fuse?? Or back have 1 fuse front 1 fuse
How to diagnose: failed operation of both (front and rear) driver-side power windows (model: 2000 Corolla LE)? Could this be a blown fuse?
Now thats a Milion View Video💯Thanks
Thanks
I have the same car but my issue is that when I roll the window down it's normal but trying to roll it back up, it doesn't work right away. I have to give it a few minutes to even move it an inch or two and repeat the process. One of the windows in the backseat doesn't roll down either. Could this be considered a fuse related issue or something else?
Did you find the solution?
@@thewiseguy7100 No, haven't had the time or money to spare to look more into it.
What bout a 2000s camry ??....I have the same fuses, and none of my windows work....not sure if its a fuse problem or not
Same here
Are you still having issues? My fuses were fine but the windows still didn't work. I was able to finally get them to work though very easily!
@@devinazevedo1122 you could of said how you got them to work?
@Stephon Thomas there's a short somewhere on the positive wire on mine. Test this to see if it's your problem but running power to it. I just used the cigarette lighter
Not corect!
The real feus is in the botem right corner- 30 amp, pinkish box shape. . The 30 Amp you see in the video is for the main door lock sistem