This is how repair/troubleshooting videos should be. Very clear explanation behind every action. Steps are not only easy to follow but you understand the reasoning behind every step. In my opinion that is the biggest thing in diagnostic work is understanding the WHY behind what youre doing. Excellent video my friend!
+1 I wish every car repair was like this video every step explained with simple to understand and follow I instructions also the reasoning behind why he's doing keep it up this helped me with my 04 Honda
I love how clear and concise this video is. You explain it so thoroughly but without any extra nonsense, that even if I don't know all the terminology, the ideas are clear. Great teacher. Thank you.
I have rudimentary knowledge, at best, with mechanical issues. Never done more then put fluids in my car until a week ago when a friend supervised/taught me how to replace brake pads. Now I'm on my way to diagnosing my driver's side window not rolling down...your video very easy to understand and detailed explanation! Thank you!
I disassembled my grandmother's door and everything only to find out that the window lockout switch was the issue. I unpressed it, and it worked just fine. We're still laughing about it 😂
@@backyardchevy328 Hi, I have a dumb question: are regulators & motors from different brands interchangeable to work together? IE: Beck Arnley regulator work with a Dorman motor that is for the same Frontier? Thks!
@@MasterArmedforces thats actually a good question..yes, they can be swapped as long as they were manufactured to factory specs..cause in many cases u can swap just the regulator or just the motor
Thanks for mentioning the lockout switch. Passenger side window on my 2 door would not roll up and was stuck in the fully down position. Was trying to figure out why, was dreading a drive motor repair, and didn't occur to me to check the lockout, because I never use it. But it must have inadvertently been pressed, because it was in the down position. 🤦🏻♂️ Easiest fix ever. Of course it worked just fine after I unpressed the switch. 😂
Thanks for the easy explanation of the switch to motor connection. It helped me figure out that the rear window motor is not bad, it's the switch that doesn't pull it back up. It works from the driver's side switches just fine.
INSANELY helpful, this video just made my life so much easier. I didn't even know about this test light tool. Thank you so much for making such clear and methodical content.
SUPER HELPFUL! If you have the time to trouble shoot like this and save money, I suggest doing it. If someone would have did what I did to trace and repair the wires it would have cost too much in labor. Thank you!
I thank you for making a very informative video. Extremely easy to follow, you explain the process clearly and logically. Simple process of elimination guarantees a clear result. You're a very good teacher.
I have a background in electronics. This was video was extremely easy to understand for those with and without experience in electrical troubleshooting. Thank you for the upload
Open drivers door. Observe interior light. Press window switch. If light dims slightly motor is faulty, if light remains same switch or wiring fault. Dont over think it.
I had this problem today , my uncle ended up taking the master switch out and opening it up to look at the motherboard , we found it was dark on the front two window switches on the board covered in dirt , cleaned it with cloth and rubbing alcohol and prayed it worked , and it did. 👍🏼
Amazing video! Great explanation. I bought that tester on Amazon, now let’s test it. Both the main switch and the passenger switch does now work…. But the switches are getting voltage because the buttons are lighted up, the windows are not going up and down probably a motor
Thanx for the easy explanations with editing, and triple thanx for getting a second person to HOLD the camera! Too often with other videos it is too hard to follow the path and place of what's going on because the camera is unsteady and jumping all over the place because the mechanic is trying to hold the camera AND perform the job at the same time. I appreciate them trying to be helpful, but sometimes their camera usage makes it more difficult. The instructions here are easy to follow (even if not always understood) because the viewer is not under pressure trying to learn something while an earthquake is happening!
Try the other door's switch - The best advice is around 4:55. Went through the whole motor replacement, to find out the switch wasn't working in the down position. Went up just fine. Thnaks
Awesome video. I used your method with the test light to determine my Subaru outback window motor was faulty. Very cool to see how the switch lights up as you get closer and closer to the motor.
For me i had to open the switch board and i notice this little piece of plastic with wires that was loose inside. Once i set it in place and assemble everything back the window staterd working. Tnxs your videoa was really helpful. 👍👍👍
Thanks. Well done. After changing out the left rear window switch with a used one from eBay ($17) it did not work. The tip of making sure the window lock on on the driver switch console saved me a lot of time.Must have locked out rear windows in the process. After switching the rear window back on, worked fine.
Thought this was the issue to my girlfriend's 2009 Kia Spectra due to 3 of her windows not going down besides the drivers side window. I didn't think to check the window lock cause I assumed she had already checked that before asking for my help since I usually fix issues with her car here and there if she can't get it on her own. As soon as he said make sure to see if the power window isn't locked I had to pause to ask if she checked and low and behold it was locked all along lol Got a good laugh out of it. Excellent video!!!
I'm a little late to the party, but a really good video! I'm one of those silly people that go through 10 cars a year lol, so i often have small issues like this. Since I am not a mechanic, it's people like you that put the jam in my doughnut ;). 10/10. Currently I have fault switches on a 2006 Murano, an 2009 Jetta, A 2011 Mercedes B200 Turbo, A 2004 AMG ML63, and a 2006 Porsche Cayenne GTS. I just wish manufacturers would stop making switches out of chocolate. But at least this video will save me a pocketful of cash.
What year do you have? also did they not work at all or only sometimes? I have a 2011 and sometimes my fronts dont work but then I turn it off then back on and they work.
Great video just don’t forget that you push the window lock switch on the drivers door because it won’t roll down on the passenger side even after you put a new motor and regulator in I’ve done that to myself ha ha me
The fun times is in older cars is where the signal is the power. The master switch for the passenger side can fail in such a way that it doesn’t work at all and the passenger switch can only open the window. It meant I learnt to hotwire my first window.
Great video! Thanks I can now check further to see why the passenger and rear window are not working. Very good explanation of how to troubleshoot this.
Appreciate it. No the lock out is not engaged. The drivers and left rear work fine. I'll update once I use the method you illustrated. Maybe both motors are bad. Thanks again.
Thanks, I'll update when I get to the bottom of it. It may help someone with a similar issue. I'm looking at the passenger door control module at this point because the switch sends the up and down control signal through it to the window motor. When checking from the motor connector end while activating the switch up and down, I only get momentary power. My test light shows power just briefly and not constant while the switch is activated. I'm going to try another door control module and see if that is the culprit.
@@backyardchevy328 I have a question. When you're checking from the window motor connector, Should the test light stay on as long as you are pressing the switch. I found the up and down wire but when I press the switch the test light only comes on briefly and shuts off. Is this what it should do? I'm thinking that the test light should stay lit as long as I'm pressing the switch or otherwise the motor wouldn't get enough power to lift or lower the window. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Thank you very much! This was very easy to understand, you didn't play around and do unnecessary things, great job. I need to go try this on my 05 GMC Envoy... I'll let you know how I make out 👍🏼 Thanks again!
@@backyardchevy328 On my 2005 Envoy the main controller on the driver's door is not working. I've tested the wires and they all seem fine & have power but the buttons (on the main cluster) do not work. However they do work using their own controllers. Becsuse the main controller isn't working there is no way to put the driver's window down, etc. All interior things are fine like the radio & interior lights etc. Ok... Well this just got weird. I went to check the doors and I was just messing around checking fuses, etc. I lost all of the electric to the windows, the main controller and each door. But.. I decided to check fuses... A few under the seat and some under the hood. Then as I was in the car and turned the key I heard the car cycle through the locks, etc. So I tried the driver's side window and It worked! All of them worked, even the driver's side but, it was very slow going down. I'm not sure what is going on, I do believe I have an electrical problem which has been causing a slow drain and I often have to jump my car (I have my own jump thing for that). Anyway I decided I had to give up for the night, it was dark and I needed to go in. When I tried to look up the car with the remote it didn't sound correct... So, I checked each door and none of them locked 🤔 I went around and manually locked them and went in for the night. It'll be interesting to see what tomorrow brings.
@@backyardchevy328 yes I actually found a messed up part on the circuit board, I didn't see it before but that's definitely the problem with that. Ordered a new one from eBay, I'll see if that solves it.. Until then I'm using the passenger side part pn the driver's side. What an ordeal. Thank you so much for your help 👍🏼
Or you could hold the lock/unlock button on your car key fob for 10 seconds, if you're opening the car and hold unlock, after about 10 seconds the driver side window will open. If you're locking the car with any window open, holding the lock button for 10 seconds will lock the car and close any open windows. This works on most cars with electric windows. This would be a quicker way to test if the motor isn't working. Work smart, not hard people!
Great video ! With my car, every window has a different problem. My right rear window I can roll down with the master switch but I can’t roll it up with the master switch. I would have to use the right rear switch to roll up but the that switch would not roll down. Other than the driver window switch all the other window switches have a problem like this.
Great video, but couldn't you skip all the switch tests and go straight to the disconnected motor wires for the two-prong test? I’m having similar issued with that rear passenger side window on my ‘06 Silverado and just recently replaced that whole motor & window regulator, which is now not working?! 😖
I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma the passenger window wouldn't roll down but the driver side would. So I was told to roll down the driver side window keep holding the button count 5 seconds roll up the window count 5 seconds and it resets the windows You don't even have to take your door apart. For Nissan you go to the door where the window won't roll down you have the door open pull up the window switch close the door and then it works. They just need to be reset that's all Don't have to tear your door apart. We're having mechanic drain your pocketbook. 👍
Our 03 Ion driver window stuck up, could feel the motor wanting to run. Removed the inside panel, loosened the four 10mm bolts for the regulator, hit the button and down she went! Cycled it a few times and then set the four bolts with the window up.
My pass window was not working neither the rear windows on my 02 odyssey and when I removed the switch turned out the on/off switch was not connected. Connected it and now my pass window works but my rear windows only make a clicking sound. Any idea what that could be?
THis is a long shot but I have a question thats maybe obvious to someone more inclined. I have a 2006 Lincoln town car and i've burned through 3 window switches but when i changed the switch it would work for months before randomly not working anymore..? Would that maybe be a bad motor over amping the switch? I did have a problem that my locks kept activating but that only happened once 2 years ago.
thanks a a lot. I also appreciate the time you took to write the words for what you were saying. good for hearing impared. confused a bit. at about 420 on time line you were testing it the signal is getting to motor connector. you used test light. how can signal get to that connector if the orange color connector is not getting to that connector. the orange connector is a female, but the male part of the connector is not connected. question: so did you test power getting to that connector, yet the test light lights up.
That orange connector i disconnected which was going to the motor the signal is coming from the switch to that orange connector so if i disconnect it from the motor the circuit is still complete up to that connector..so when i would press the switch up or down one of the two would get power and if i press the switch the other way, the other wire gets power..which it did..confirming that signal is getting there..so if i were to connect that to a good motor..it would work and move the window up and down
@@backyardchevy328 thank you. i got it now. my fault, i though the orange connector you was testing was coming directly from the motor and not attached to the switch, that is what i was missing. again thanks for reply
Thanks for this. I learned a good deal. I went through my 2003 tests on my drivers side connector. My drivers window won't go down. All other work. I changed out the switch and it worked for about 3 days. Now shows same issue. I checked the current and the problem now seems like there is no current for down wire. All others show current. What could cause that? Solution?
Its odd that it worked for 3 days after replacement and its only the down that doesnt work..any chance theres a damaged wire? Or maybe the motor might be going bad and its causing the switch to short from the heat..maybe the wire to the motor is damaged somewhere like it has a cut
So I took off the panel and pulled the connector to the motor. The same wire shows no power so I have ordered another switch to see if the wire shows power with the new switch. Maybe the switch I had received was faulty ? Is there a way to test if the motor is using too much energy causing wire or switch to burn out?
@@dondeaton9797 well they have those amp testers that go around the wires and u can find out the amount of amps the window motor is pulling to roll window up or down...but im hoping it was just a bad window switch..was it an oem style?
Thank you for the helpful video. The passenger side power window on my friend's 2012 Kia Soul doesn't work, but when I engage the switch the window moves ever so slightly as if it is trying but has no strength. But the same windows goes up and down without problem from the switch on the driver's side. Also both windows on the driver and the passenger side open and close slower than the rear windows as well. What do you think would be the problem?
My window will only go up, but not down - I'm getting different results when the regulator is connected vs not. When disconnected, I get the correct voltage signals for up/down on different wires. But, when connected, I get a whole mix of weird signals - I replaced the entire regulator assembly and still get the same results, wondering if I need to replace the main switch over at the driver's door? Thanks for any help/ideas.
2000 Honda Accord sedan. Right rear window. At the right rear window switch - it does nothing & no clicking sound (new switch & new motor.) Main switch panel at driver - right rear switch - I can hear a clicking noise at the right rear window. But still won't move. All other windows work fine. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
I have a Hyundai Tucson 2006 limited, my windows won’t go down, and my back light won’t turn on, my dash also, my head light work, my turn signal work please help me, if my chair don’t connect that can cause that problem?
Thank you🙂 yes black is normally the ground..but for window switches the signal from positive to negative...like for the window to go up itll have positive on one of the window motor connector wires and negative on the other and to go down it switches, that same wire will become negative and the other positive
Have a 1999 Honda Passport. Drivers window goes up but not down with either switch. Already changed motor assembly. Where would the up and down signal be reversed? The pins are too small to check at the switches. Used jumpers at the motor to verify motor will go up and down.
Had a question.. please, 2006 toyota tundra drivers window, went down, won't go up. Replace the 25amp fuse, still no up on window. Used your video and went to plug at motor. Checked down, test light lit up, checked down, no light. So this means switch ( up position) is bad? I went ahead and ordered a new switch and motor as well. Thanks in advance, Michael
Many many thanks, I was given a bad motor as well but thanks to you, I discovered this was just part of the problem and I simply switched the switch and returned the original motor. ALL GOOD now, thank you so much @@WestCoastUSA546
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This is how repair/troubleshooting videos should be. Very clear explanation behind every action. Steps are not only easy to follow but you understand the reasoning behind every step. In my opinion that is the biggest thing in diagnostic work is understanding the WHY behind what youre doing. Excellent video my friend!
Thank you🙂 i really appreciate it
+1 I wish every car repair was like this video every step explained with simple to understand and follow I instructions also the reasoning behind why he's doing keep it up this helped me with my 04 Honda
Very informative
I have to agree with that, explaining, showing is what people are looking for!!!
Thank you very much.
@@backyardchevy328 😊😊
I love how clear and concise this video is. You explain it so thoroughly but without any extra nonsense, that even if I don't know all the terminology, the ideas are clear. Great teacher. Thank you.
Thank you i really appreciate it🙂
I agree ☝️
That was the best explanation of how to troubleshoot electrical problems on TH-cam. Simple, easy to understand and comprehensive. You nailed it.
Thank you🙂
I have rudimentary knowledge, at best, with mechanical issues. Never done more then put fluids in my car until a week ago when a friend supervised/taught me how to replace brake pads. Now I'm on my way to diagnosing my driver's side window not rolling down...your video very easy to understand and detailed explanation! Thank you!
Thats awesome! Definitely proud achievements 🙂👍...thank you🙂
Yea for you for putting fluids in your car!!
I disassembled my grandmother's door and everything only to find out that the window lockout switch was the issue. I unpressed it, and it worked just fine. We're still laughing about it 😂
Lol..well nothing like a free repair and a laugh🙂
@@backyardchevy328 Hi, I have a dumb question: are regulators & motors from different brands interchangeable to work together? IE: Beck Arnley regulator work with a Dorman motor that is for the same Frontier? Thks!
@@MasterArmedforces thats actually a good question..yes, they can be swapped as long as they were manufactured to factory specs..cause in many cases u can swap just the regulator or just the motor
I did the same thing today!! I almost started tripping and throwing a tantrum
I’ve done that before xD
Thanks for mentioning the lockout switch. Passenger side window on my 2 door would not roll up and was stuck in the fully down position. Was trying to figure out why, was dreading a drive motor repair, and didn't occur to me to check the lockout, because I never use it. But it must have inadvertently been pressed, because it was in the down position. 🤦🏻♂️ Easiest fix ever. Of course it worked just fine after I unpressed the switch. 😂
i went weeks with my lockout switch on thinking it was my window motor🤣
I love the way you explain stuff. It’s like you have all the knowledge, yet you explain it at my level ( level 2.out of 100 )
Thank you🙂
Thanks for the easy explanation of the switch to motor connection. It helped me figure out that the rear window motor is not bad, it's the switch that doesn't pull it back up. It works from the driver's side switches just fine.
Thats great! Im glad u were able to figure it out🙂👍
INSANELY helpful, this video just made my life so much easier. I didn't even know about this test light tool. Thank you so much for making such clear and methodical content.
SUPER HELPFUL! If you have the time to trouble shoot like this and save money, I suggest doing it. If someone would have did what I did to trace and repair the wires it would have cost too much in labor.
Thank you!
Thank you🙂
I thank you for making a very informative video. Extremely easy to follow, you explain the process clearly and logically. Simple process of elimination guarantees a clear result. You're a very good teacher.
I have a background in electronics. This was video was extremely easy to understand for those with and without experience in electrical troubleshooting. Thank you for the upload
Open drivers door. Observe interior light. Press window switch. If light dims slightly motor is faulty, if light remains same switch or wiring fault. Dont over think it.
I had this problem today , my uncle ended up taking the master switch out and opening it up to look at the motherboard , we found it was dark on the front two window switches on the board covered in dirt , cleaned it with cloth and rubbing alcohol and prayed it worked , and it did. 👍🏼
Great job fixing it🙂👍
Amazing video! Great explanation. I bought that tester on Amazon, now let’s test it. Both the main switch and the passenger switch does now work….
But the switches are getting voltage because the buttons are lighted up, the windows are not going up and down probably a motor
Thanx for the easy explanations with editing, and triple thanx for getting a second person to HOLD the camera! Too often with other videos it is too hard to follow the path and place of what's going on because the camera is unsteady and jumping all over the place because the mechanic is trying to hold the camera AND perform the job at the same time. I appreciate them trying to be helpful, but sometimes their camera usage makes it more difficult. The instructions here are easy to follow (even if not always understood) because the viewer is not under pressure trying to learn something while an earthquake is happening!
Your the man! I moved the wires in the door and it started working instantly, thanks 👍🏾👍🏾👍🏾🙏🏽
Thank you. This is the most complete, thorough, and comprehensive video for this that I’ve seen. At least I figured out it’s not the switch.
Try the other door's switch - The best advice is around 4:55. Went through the whole motor replacement, to find out the switch wasn't working in the down position. Went up just fine. Thnaks
Thanks. I have a bunch of Taurus and Sable how to vids.
This is an excellent, comprehensive “watch this before fixing a non-working car window”
great, simple way explaining the way to test it. The best video to help o guy like me understand. Thank you
Thank you🙂
Do I need to program my 2009 chevy Tahoe windows master switch after changing it? thank you.
Finally someone that goes in depth about breaking things down to determine the problem!
Thank you🙂
Worked like a champ!!! Saved me from a heart attack... frustrating it was... thank you.😊
Awesome video. I used your method with the test light to determine my Subaru outback window motor was faulty. Very cool to see how the switch lights up as you get closer and closer to the motor.
Great video!! You were very clear, easy to follow and helpful every step of the way! Thanks!! Now I'm gonna go look for that handy tool!
Thank you🙂 i really appreciate it
For me i had to open the switch board and i notice this little piece of plastic with wires that was loose inside. Once i set it in place and assemble everything back the window staterd working. Tnxs your videoa was really helpful. 👍👍👍
Oh my goddd it was the lock out switch, I must have hit it by accident. What a life saver you are 🥰 thanks!
Thats great! Glad thats all it was🙂👍
Thanks. Well done.
After changing out the left rear window switch with a used one from eBay ($17) it did not work. The tip of making sure the window lock on on the driver switch console saved me a lot of time.Must have locked out rear windows in the process. After switching the rear window back on, worked fine.
Thank you🙂 so glad to hear that that ended up fixing the issue🙂👍
Great diagnostic. Thanks! Next step--replace motor on specific door?
Your teaching lead me to the motor being worn out..Thank u
Thought this was the issue to my girlfriend's 2009 Kia Spectra due to 3 of her windows not going down besides the drivers side window. I didn't think to check the window lock cause I assumed she had already checked that before asking for my help since I usually fix issues with her car here and there if she can't get it on her own. As soon as he said make sure to see if the power window isn't locked I had to pause to ask if she checked and low and behold it was locked all along lol Got a good laugh out of it. Excellent video!!!
Lol...glad to hear that thats all it was🙂👍 ive had my share of easy fixes like that on other vehicles lol
Wow your trouble shooting mindset and explanation is brilliant, please keep making videos
Thank you🙂 i really appreciate it
I'm a little late to the party, but a really good video! I'm one of those silly people that go through 10 cars a year lol, so i often have small issues like this. Since I am not a mechanic, it's people like you that put the jam in my doughnut ;). 10/10. Currently I have fault switches on a 2006 Murano, an 2009 Jetta, A 2011 Mercedes B200 Turbo, A 2004 AMG ML63, and a 2006 Porsche Cayenne GTS. I just wish manufacturers would stop making switches out of chocolate. But at least this video will save me a pocketful of cash.
Thank you🙂 i do hope itll help save u a lot of money..thank you for the support..i really appreciate it
Smooth talker. This dude must pull all the ladies.
Master switch working but passenger switch n/w replaced switch.Still not working. Your video is helpful thank you.
Exaaactly the visual explanation ive been looking for! Thank you! Now my F150 has fully working windows!
Thats awesome! Glad to be able to help🙂
What year do you have? also did they not work at all or only sometimes? I have a 2011 and sometimes my fronts dont work but then I turn it off then back on and they work.
Best video out there explaining everything clearly! Thanks so much!
Very well done...excellent no wasted words or nagging intro music..explained everything that we need to know on trouble shooting the window
Thank you🙂
Super-awesome editing and quick to-the-point helpful video!! Good job bro!
Thank you🙂
Excellent compared to so called pros, great angle and explanation
Thank you🙂
Best video about this problem ever.
Thank you🙂
Hi. Great video. Any idea why the window will go down but not up? Thank you.
This video was so helpful. Can you tell me the brand of your test light or where you got it thanks
Great video just don’t forget that you push the window lock switch on the drivers door because it won’t roll down on the passenger side even after you put a new motor and regulator in I’ve done that to myself ha ha me
The fun times is in older cars is where the signal is the power. The master switch for the passenger side can fail in such a way that it doesn’t work at all and the passenger switch can only open the window. It meant I learnt to hotwire my first window.
Valuable skill to learn when understanding wiring
Probably one of the easiest videos to understand thank you 💯
Thank you🙂
You did a very nicely delivered video with thorough coverage of testing. Thank you.
Best explanation for the window switch and helped me fix the problem in mine. Thank you for the video 👍👍👍
Awesome video. Clear and concise. I am facing this exact problem and your video was very helpful. Thanks.
Thank you🙂
Thank you! I bought the motor but then discovered it was just the window locking over ride switch was enabled thanks to your video. Stupid me😣
Oh no, well good thing u were able to figure it out
Both of my rear switches quit working at the same time, driver controls work fine just the back ones are not working all the sudden.
Great instructions and Great Voice to listen to as well, Thank you
Perfectly demonstrated and explained👍👍👍 I'm hoping you have a video which would help with my 2013 gmc as well
Thanks . God bless you . i was in the city center and this suddenly happened . not anymore thanks to you 🙏🏼 it s good that i had fuses in the car
Thats great! Thank you🙂
You’re amazing , very clear and concise. Greatly appreciate your video!
Explained in a very simple and nice way. Thank you so much.
this is the perfect how to video! congratulations man
Exceptional instructional video. Makes complete sense. I'm off to the races...
Thank you🙂
Great video! Thanks I can now check further to see why the passenger and rear window are not working. Very good explanation of how to troubleshoot this.
Thank you🙂 and the lockouts not engaged?
Appreciate it. No the lock out is not engaged. The drivers and left rear work fine. I'll update once I use the method you illustrated. Maybe both motors are bad. Thanks again.
@@theluckymanfrom good luck🙂
Thanks, I'll update when I get to the bottom of it. It may help someone with a similar issue. I'm looking at the passenger door control module at this point because the switch sends the up and down control signal through it to the window motor. When checking from the motor connector end while activating the switch up and down, I only get momentary power. My test light shows power just briefly and not constant while the switch is activated. I'm going to try another door control module and see if that is the culprit.
@@backyardchevy328 I have a question. When you're checking from the window motor connector, Should the test light stay on as long as you are pressing the switch. I found the up and down wire but when I press the switch the test light only comes on briefly and shuts off. Is this what it should do? I'm thinking that the test light should stay lit as long as I'm pressing the switch or otherwise the motor wouldn't get enough power to lift or lower the window. Thanks in advance for your thoughts.
Your video is the only one i found that actually helped! Thank you so much!
So glad it was helpful🙂 thank you
Thank you very much! This was very easy to understand, you didn't play around and do unnecessary things, great job. I need to go try this on my 05 GMC Envoy... I'll let you know how I make out 👍🏼
Thanks again!
Thank you🙂 hopefully it helps u figure out the problem..good luck🙂👍
@@backyardchevy328 On my 2005 Envoy the main controller on the driver's door is not working. I've tested the wires and they all seem fine & have power but the buttons (on the main cluster) do not work. However they do work using their own controllers. Becsuse the main controller isn't working there is no way to put the driver's window down, etc. All interior things are fine like the radio & interior lights etc. Ok... Well this just got weird. I went to check the doors and I was just messing around checking fuses, etc. I lost all of the electric to the windows, the main controller and each door. But.. I decided to check fuses... A few under the seat and some under the hood. Then as I was in the car and turned the key I heard the car cycle through the locks, etc. So I tried the driver's side window and It worked! All of them worked, even the driver's side but, it was very slow going down. I'm not sure what is going on, I do believe I have an electrical problem which has been causing a slow drain and I often have to jump my car (I have my own jump thing for that). Anyway I decided I had to give up for the night, it was dark and I needed to go in. When I tried to look up the car with the remote it didn't sound correct... So, I checked each door and none of them locked 🤔 I went around and manually locked them and went in for the night. It'll be interesting to see what tomorrow brings.
@@uzibah4889 yea definitely some wiring issue...either a damaged wire or a bad ground
@@backyardchevy328 yes I actually found a messed up part on the circuit board, I didn't see it before but that's definitely the problem with that. Ordered a new one from eBay, I'll see if that solves it.. Until then I'm using the passenger side part pn the driver's side. What an ordeal. Thank you so much for your help 👍🏼
@@uzibah4889 Thats Great! Glad u were able to find the problem
Or you could hold the lock/unlock button on your car key fob for 10 seconds, if you're opening the car and hold unlock, after about 10 seconds the driver side window will open. If you're locking the car with any window open, holding the lock button for 10 seconds will lock the car and close any open windows. This works on most cars with electric windows.
This would be a quicker way to test if the motor isn't working.
Work smart, not hard people!
You ain't gotta Lie to be our friend...
We still love ya buddy
Maaaan, you video is awesome. Very simple and clear explanation !!!! Thanks for your video !
Great video ! With my car, every window has a different problem. My right rear window I can roll down with the master switch but I can’t roll it up with the master switch. I would have to use the right rear switch to roll up but the that switch would not roll down. Other than the driver window switch all the other window switches have a problem like this.
Thank you🙂 yea thats a lot off issues with the switches lol
Same with my 2011 Kia Sorento. Every window has a different issue 😖
Best Electrical Video Ever! Thanks!
this is more organised video. thank you very much. u saved me time and money
Great video, but couldn't you skip all the switch tests and go straight to the disconnected motor wires for the two-prong test? I’m having similar issued with that rear passenger side window on my ‘06 Silverado and just recently replaced that whole motor & window regulator, which is now not working?! 😖
I have a 2001 Toyota Tacoma the passenger window wouldn't roll down but the driver side would. So I was told to roll down the driver side window keep holding the button count 5 seconds roll up the window count 5 seconds and it resets the windows You don't even have to take your door apart. For Nissan you go to the door where the window won't roll down you have the door open pull up the window switch close the door and then it works. They just need to be reset that's all Don't have to tear your door apart. We're having mechanic drain your pocketbook. 👍
This was very clear and very helpful. Thank you. Your friend from the UK. 👍
Thank you🙂
This was great, clear, and solid information. Thank you very much
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Thank you🙂 much appreciated
Our 03 Ion driver window stuck up, could feel the motor wanting to run. Removed the inside panel, loosened the four 10mm bolts for the regulator, hit the button and down she went! Cycled it a few times and then set the four bolts with the window up.
Thats awesome!.glad u were able to fix it..it may also help to lubricate the tracks
All this time my lockout switch was on. Only found out until I saw that red line when he pressed on it lol 😂
My pass window was not working neither the rear windows on my 02 odyssey and when I removed the switch turned out the on/off switch was not connected. Connected it and now my pass window works but my rear windows only make a clicking sound. Any idea what that could be?
This video is fantastic, well done and thank you
Should I purchase the regulator or just the motor for the driver side window?
THis is a long shot but I have a question thats maybe obvious to someone more inclined. I have a 2006 Lincoln town car and i've burned through 3 window switches but when i changed the switch it would work for months before randomly not working anymore..? Would that maybe be a bad motor over amping the switch? I did have a problem that my locks kept activating but that only happened once 2 years ago.
What kind of circuit tester is that? And thank you for this video.
Its just a 12 volt test light..which lights up whenever it receives a 12 volt signal
Thanks for sharing this video my friend and this is helpful to me and many more people
How about it's the driver window that doesn't want to go down and the other windows are going down
thanks a a lot. I also appreciate the time you took to write the words for what you were saying. good for hearing impared.
confused a bit. at about 420 on time line you were testing it the signal is getting to motor connector. you used test light.
how can signal get to that connector if the orange color connector is not getting to that connector. the orange connector is a female, but the male part of the connector is not connected.
question: so did you test power getting to that connector, yet the test light lights up.
That orange connector i disconnected which was going to the motor the signal is coming from the switch to that orange connector so if i disconnect it from the motor the circuit is still complete up to that connector..so when i would press the switch up or down one of the two would get power and if i press the switch the other way, the other wire gets power..which it did..confirming that signal is getting there..so if i were to connect that to a good motor..it would work and move the window up and down
@@backyardchevy328 thank you. i got it now. my fault, i though the orange connector you was testing was coming directly from the motor and not attached to the switch, that is what i was missing. again thanks for reply
@@scottwatkins39 yea that motor has a solid connector next to the motor itself
Thanks for this. I learned a good deal. I went through my 2003 tests on my drivers side connector. My drivers window won't go down. All other work. I changed out the switch and it worked for about 3 days. Now shows same issue. I checked the current and the problem now seems like there is no current for down wire. All others show current. What could cause that? Solution?
Its odd that it worked for 3 days after replacement and its only the down that doesnt work..any chance theres a damaged wire? Or maybe the motor might be going bad and its causing the switch to short from the heat..maybe the wire to the motor is damaged somewhere like it has a cut
@@backyardchevy328 I have t taken the door apart to look at it.
So I took off the panel and pulled the connector to the motor. The same wire shows no power so I have ordered another switch to see if the wire shows power with the new switch. Maybe the switch I had received was faulty ? Is there a way to test if the motor is using too much energy causing wire or switch to burn out?
@@dondeaton9797 well they have those amp testers that go around the wires and u can find out the amount of amps the window motor is pulling to roll window up or down...but im hoping it was just a bad window switch..was it an oem style?
@@backyardchevy328 not sure. I had ordered on Amazon.
Thank you for telling me about the lock out that was the issue
Thank you for the helpful video. The passenger side power window on my friend's 2012 Kia Soul doesn't work, but when I engage the switch the window moves ever so slightly as if it is trying but has no strength. But the same windows goes up and down without problem from the switch on the driver's side. Also both windows on the driver and the passenger side open and close slower than the rear windows as well. What do you think would be the problem?
Well sounds like the passenger's side switch would be the problem if it works fine with the driver's side switch.
Thank you so much. I'm learning to work on my own vehicle.
I must say this was a very good video that was very informative. Thanks.
You explain things very well and easy-to-follow. Thank you for sharing your experience and knowledge it is much appreciated 👍🏻
I just subscribed to your channel. Is there a second video to check is the problem is not there?
My window will only go up, but not down - I'm getting different results when the regulator is connected vs not. When disconnected, I get the correct voltage signals for up/down on different wires. But, when connected, I get a whole mix of weird signals - I replaced the entire regulator assembly and still get the same results, wondering if I need to replace the main switch over at the driver's door? Thanks for any help/ideas.
Excellent video easy to follow and Understand. Love the step by step of diagnosis and elemination.👍👍👍👍
Thank you🙂
2000 Honda Accord sedan.
Right rear window. At the right rear window switch - it does nothing & no clicking sound (new switch & new motor.)
Main switch panel at driver - right rear switch - I can hear a clicking noise at the right rear window. But still won't move. All other windows work fine.
Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks
Great detail and stepby step.
I have a Hyundai Tucson 2006 limited, my windows won’t go down, and my back light won’t turn on, my dash also, my head light work, my turn signal work please help me, if my chair don’t connect that can cause that problem?
Subscribed. So I have a 2011 Colorado. The black wire for the rear pretty window switch is ground right?
Thank you🙂 yes black is normally the ground..but for window switches the signal from positive to negative...like for the window to go up itll have positive on one of the window motor connector wires and negative on the other and to go down it switches, that same wire will become negative and the other positive
I did exactly that everything works, and I tested the window motor directly to the battery, and it goes up and down. What can it be?
Is that a circuit or continuity test light?
Have a 1999 Honda Passport. Drivers window goes up but not down with either switch. Already changed motor assembly. Where would the up and down signal be reversed? The pins are too small to check at the switches. Used jumpers at the motor to verify motor will go up and down.
Thanks for this video, it helped me find the problem
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worked like a charm. Thanks for making the video. Subscribed
Had a question.. please, 2006 toyota tundra drivers window, went down, won't go up. Replace the 25amp fuse, still no up on window. Used your video and went to plug at motor. Checked down, test light lit up, checked down, no light. So this means switch ( up position) is bad? I went ahead and ordered a new switch and motor as well. Thanks in advance, Michael
Did it fix the problem?
Many many thanks, I was given a bad motor as well but thanks to you, I discovered this was just part of the problem and I simply switched the switch and returned the original motor. ALL GOOD now, thank you so much @@WestCoastUSA546
He is mixing so many things together and making us lost