When I started machine shop trade school in the late 70s I ecall spending many, many, many hours at the grinder learning this skill free hand. Its a skill that has served me very well.
when i was an 18 year old apprentice , it was easy to get the correct angles freehand . over 40 years later the keenness of eye and steadiness of hand makes this jig a compelling project. thanks for the videos .
Love it Mr Pete you are the best my old shop teacher was such an inspiration in my life. Having a person who really cares about his students make all the difference in the world thank God for teachers who care.
I'm probably a bit different than the typical viewer here. While I am probably close to the same age as many of you (50), I am just beginning my apprenticeship as a toolmaker. I've been in the program for about a year and a half and have become wonderfully fascinated with learning as much as I can. These videos have been an important part of my learning. In today's workforce with more modern machinery, many of the tips and techniques seen here are a bit obsolete. Yet I believe it is essential to know and understand what Mr. Pete continues to show as the very foundation of what I am attempting to learn. I'm so appreciative and grateful for the many videos and vast amount of time you spend in teaching. Thank you.
I like to use low carbon scrap to grind form tools that can be used on HDPE plastic. I've also used it on aluminum one off prototypes. Thanks for putting these videos together for us Mr. Peterson!
Mr. Pete sir, you mentioned the channel suffering. You are such a wealth of lifetime knowledge, sharing teaching yet another generation. Barring the internet just evaporating in future, your legacy will touch who knows how many generations to come. Please don't get discouraged with the algorithm and views and whatever; please continue making whatever content you will. I'm forty-three and wish I'd gotten the manufacturing bug twenty years ago instead of five years ago. Now I've managed to get dozens of younger people into it, and largely due to your vids and others. . They are in a better place younger and their future brighter. Because of you and persons like you.
Brilliant series! I've built most of your other tool series (wiggler, tap follower, float lock vise, etc.) but this lathe tool grinder is in my opinion the best tool and the most useful plan you've ever offered. At my age and lack of good eyesight, I can't tell you how much I appreciate this. Very cool, and one that I'll be building this weekend. Can't wait to get it done! Thanks so much! All the best, Bob in Seattle
Lyle - Excellent video early on a rainy morning with the second cup of coffee. I imagine you have the video on making the gauge finished already - but if using a quick change tool holder it would be easy enough to modify the one angle as South Bend designed it to use the Armstrong and such tool holders with the built in angle. Like you said, once you wrap your head around the why of the angles easy enough to do free hand and get good results. Like a lot of things, just a bit of experience helps quite a bit as you move along. Keep up the good work, I'm sure the more in depth explanation helps beginners. And those of us more experienced are never to old to pick up a trick or two we did not learn over the years. Thanks.
Thanks again for another great video! Although I think you have covered it before, in one of your follow up videos, probably the one on dressing wheels you should demonstrate how to check for cracked wheels by ring testing it. As a cabinetmaker / millman for 48 years, it's the first thing I show an apprentice when I start to teach them how to grind shaper and sticker knives.
What is "ring testing"? I'm always nervous about the grooves that I leave in my wheels by grinding my tungsten on them (for tig welding). I'm looking forward to his wheel dressing video.
@@EuroclydonEng Hi Dennis, "Ring Testing" to check for cracked wheels is vary simple. With the grinding wheel off the grinder or before mounting a new wheel, with one hand hold the wheel with one finger through the arbor hole, next with the other hand take a metal object like a 1/2" drill bit or a wrench, lithely tap on the side of the wheel. You should hear a ring sound if it's not cracked, if it's a thud sound most likely it's cracked even if you don't see any. I wouldn't worry about the grooves from grinding tungsten on the face of the wheel.
Thanks, Mr. Pete. This is the BEST explanation I have heard on the grinding angles. I truly appreciate your teaching style and your explanations in all your videos. You are truly sharing your knowledge in a sincere and friendly way that is so pleasing to watch. I've learned so many things from your videos over the years. I always look forward to the next one! Have a great day teacher!
Mr. Pete, When I took two years of gunsmithing at the local Jr. College, the machine shop teacher taught us to grind hss tool it's. The cupped wheel does make it easier. The second year when we were working with 4140 and stainless barrels, I invested in carbide tool holders. They worked great on the 14x40 LeBlond lathe at school. On my 10 inch South end, not enough horsepower to make cuts deep enough for good finishes with the carbide inserts. Thanks for the series of videos, I enjoyed them.
Glad that you do these videos, alot of guys like me use HSS because it is found cheap at auctions and sales, fits the older tool posts and holders since most production is now carbide. Appreciate it Tubalcain.
A very clear and useful demonstration. I sure wish I’d had one of these when I started in the machine shop over fifty years ago. I grind all of my tools by hand and touch them up on my belt grinder with a fine grit belt. The belt grinder gives a slightly better finish and is easier to control the angle.
When I was in high school metalworking class learning to grind tool bits we were taught to do it free hand with no mention of this fixture. I never knew such existed until now. If I did know I had forgotten about it. I hated grinding tool bits with a purple passion because it would eat up the whole class period, burned my fingers, and I couldn't get to the project until the next day. The next day I would wind up dulling the tool and spending the remainder of that class period re-sharpening. When I discovered carbide and quick-change tooling I pretty much left HSS behind, but still occasionally need something special that HSS can deliver faster and cheaper than carbide for one-off jobs. Now, with progressed arthritic hands I have an even greater appreciation for such a tool and will now have to add it to my list of shop tools to be built. Thank you for adding the still photos at the end. It allows me to take screen shots and archive the information for later use. Very much appreciated!
Great video series. In my shop training we did not have the bit holder. It took a little time, but I got pretty good at free hand. Thanks for the service you provide.
As apprentices, we were given the lecture, then each was given a "master" sample and told to duplicate it, working freehand. From there we would be shown its use on the machines. What was interesting to me was that in a short time our instructor could recognise which of us in the group of 10 had ground which tool! He was able to do the same with our freehand sharpened drill bits, as well as our finished projects. I'd guess you were able to recognise the "hand" of your students, too.
What Lyle is showing here is the very bassos of all machining and without it you will bever understand how to be a real machine hand. I was first instructed in tool grinding in High School by our shop teacher Mr. Jim Jamison back in 1963 ,,,, 3/8" bits regular HSS,,,,Free Hand,,,,Round nose on one end and a facing tool on the other also free hand. It has served me well to this day. Even in the Army in Vietnam I was the only one in the Platoon that had any idea about Rake and Clearance angles,,,,and I would be in base camp in a tent at night with a gas lantern filling saws and chain saw chains until I taught a couple other guys how to do it, -(We were combat Engineers) It is a knowledge that has served me well all my life to this day. I even touch up carbide inserts when they are not chipped too bad. ,,,, It shocks me to go into a shop today and see 30 plus year old men running CNC lathes and mills who have no clue about rakes and clearances. I have even had some of them laugh at me when they see me grinding a drill bit. (Untill they see it cutting better then new) they think when you dull or chip a drill you throw it away. Total ignorance personified, and its because nobody taught them how to do it. It was the beginning of the end when there are no more Mr Petes, and Mr Jamisons.to show us how to do it,,,, and idiot school boards that cut out industrial arts and replace it with diversity and sexual identify classes. No wounder we get virtually un-employable collage graduates.,,,, that can;t read.
Thank you for an interesting comment. You are so right, that most people cannot sharpen anything more complicated than a pencil. They consider all cutting tools disposable. I’m glad you have the realization of how important industrial arts really Was.
I was just planning on watching till I finished my morning coffee. I really enjoy your videos, so I ended up sticking around to the end. Thank you for another great video.
Mr. Pete, thank you. I knew nothing about this tool for sharpening lathe bits until you did this series of videos. I am contemplating making one just to see if I can do it without a mill (I don't own one) and have it look like it was done using one. My mill consists of a high tension hacksaw, files and a belt sander. I have always used the hand sharpening method with OK results. I have seen a different video where the maker used Dykem and a scribe for the angles and I will be using this as an aid. Instead of Dykem, I use a giant blue Sharpie. The Craftsman lathe book also has excellent pictures of how to sharpen lathe cutting tools and acceptable angles used for different materials.
Another excellent video. Thank you Mr. Pete. Using the angles produced by the SB grinding fixture you don't get any back rake when using the QC toolholder.
Lyle, I plan to build one of these cutting tool grinding jigs for use with my old (1911) South Bend lathe. I don't know whether tge lathe is sturdy enough to use carbide insert tooling and (so far) only have its original lantern-type tool holder. Therefore I'm limited to HSS cutting tools for the time being. I'm glad that you recommended practicing on key-stock instead of HSS! I'll do my practicing on that before risking possible wasting of HSS. Now I need to find a few more Armstrong-type tool holders!
If I was a teacher in a shop class, I’d definitely be using your videos sir! Your videos are solid gold 🤗 thank you for all that you do. I am still not understanding as to why you haven’t reach WAAAYYY over a million subscribers yet?!?! People need to subscribe if they be watching the videos 🤨
I don't know who did your drawings but they are really well done! Thank you for all the work you put into these videos! I appreciate you letting us see your "apprentice" marks; makes me feel better about all of mine.
Carbide really loves to take a heavy bite to get a decent finish. I've got some Iscar WNMG inserts that Tom Lipton recommended, and they will turn a mirror finish on steel ***if*** you take a heavy enough bite. >0.050" depth of cut and maybe 0.010"/rev feed rate makes them pretty happy. Try to shave off 0.005" and you get a grainy finish. It's led me to plan my cuts more carefully and to be certain that I have a good measurement for that last cut.
I will definitely be making one of these jigs so my boys can learn to make their own bits and quit dulling mine. Oh yeah, with my "old eyes" I will probably be using it too. Thank You Mr Pete, you always have useful, interesting content.
I dont know if your talking to me but thanks Les i enjoyed the program but not the waiting for the. upload . it reminded me of the incurrence man that came to look at the damage to my work shop. roof . AS he informed me they do not do felt roof's. I said you never said that when you took my money. yes it doesn't apply except you said the was [ 4'perts] You did not say how long to post them LOL so one can get them did one. thanks any way for the effort . even if slow .
Thank you Mr. Peterson. I purchased one of these, with most of the inserts and, one of the remanufactured cutting gauges off of Ebay from "Alisam engineering". Your videos really help make my Vintage SB 9A 4' bed is an awesome machine. If it's okay with you, I would like to post a snapshot of you on my shop wall next to my lathe. You are an inspiration to us all. Thanks again, Jim🙂
Thank you for making this and all the videos you make, always educational, always something funny. You are the best. I’ve said it before I wish you would have been my shop teacher in high school. Thank you for your time and knowledge.
As a old-school barber (38 yrs) I learned how to use a hone & strop...anywho when my cutting tool starts to dull i rub leather over the cutting area(in a stropping motion)...does it work ? not sure, in my mind it does.
You're in good company. The 90's and early 2000s left a lot of students (myself included) without a decent shop class because "everything will be done by computers". (Jetsons and Terminator became school doctrine instead of fiction 🤣)
Au contraire mon ami, some of us are paying attention at 25:10 or so. That angle is for us to utilize. I should try your marking method. That would work far better than angle thoughts in my head AND I should put my big-boy trousers on and make a block and two sleeves. By hand I'm always getting multi-faceted faces on the tools. They can produce beautiful results sometimes but like you say, they don't look good. Fascinating video to me! Even tho I typed too much. I get a confident fix watching your vids!
Very informative! Thanks. Not only are you a great machinist. You are also a great sales person. I now want to buy the blocks and gauge you showed because I now know what they are used for and how to use them. Penn Tool, I suggest sending Mr. Pete a liitle token of appreciation.
finally i got it. yes i made one I could. not find a Squair plug socket out of my old spear sockets A offend it to drill to except the tool steal into the square of the 3/8 tooling in my socket. then , Then heated the block & put the socket in my deep freeze & pressed it home in the sleeve . I did not put the engraving on the The sleeve Insted i made a stick out circular boss a little. Deeper & engraved that insted, Putting the Zero on The sleeve instead, Cutting down on the need for engraving of sleeves, & putting the Zero on the Face of the block to with it scribe mark easily done in the way you demon-striate it in the lathe 4way chuck . I hop this meet's with your approval . Les in England. once softened drilling the oppstruction in the socket is easy . Filing doesn't work to hard.
Satellite is sometimes used for exhaust valves due to it’s hardness and extreme heat durability but I’ve never heard of it being used for cutting tools.
Stellite 100 is the alloy most used for cutting tools. There are many variations of stellite alloys, the main use for it today is hip replacements. Wood turners have been silver soldering it to carbon steel and using it to make a scraper tool for wood turning. Stellite 100 will hold it's edge much longer than high speed steel however it can be sharpened with regular grinding wheels.
Dear Mr. Pete, I am from Mexico and I have a South Ben CL670 R lathe and I have it disassembled because I need some parts, how can I contact you for advice?
I had a big 12 in grinding wheel explode while grinding once I was white as a ghost for a bit. Luckily we always wore glasses face sheild and leather apron so there was no injury sustained
It looks like you are using a hard wheel. I was taught that for HSS, a softer wheel, grade H or I, will actually grind faster and cooler. Counter intuitive, but true in my experience.
I just had to laugh when you said at 1:20 "If possible get yourself a copy of this book. Of course it is from 1935 so you will not find it at K mart." That sure is true and you will not find K mart either. Like Montgomery Wards and many others K mart has gone the way of the Dodo Bird.
I am a frequent viewer of your channel and I am of similar age. Your recent posting for the South Bend Grinding Jig struck me as an interesting project and I decided it was one I was ready to tackle. So I went to myheap.com to get the plans and downloaded the offering by JHM because it looked the most like a normal drawing. I proceeded to work on the jig but after I cut the 10° slope on the body part, I realized I had put it on the wrong end. (I already had the two holes drilled in the top.) After checking the drawing more closely, I realized the drawing was in error and that’s why I made the mistake. Granted it was partly my fault for not checking the drawing’s validity but I wanted you to be aware of the issue since others may make the same mistake.
Thank you for the comment. I’ll tell you something right now. There were more drawings of this project than what I really wanted. I was unable to proofread them. I had a hunch that there might be some mistakes. And there might be lots more than what you discovered sorry about that. Probably does not matter a whole lot, because who else will actually make this project, LOL. I almost forgot to say, I really have no way of correcting this. That would involve more than three people, and lots of time
![[LIVE] : ONE ลุมพินี 89 | คู่เอก "ยอดไอคิว vs คิริลล์"](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/Z3vYkHJ_5Ig/mqdefault.jpg)
Good morning Mr Pete, a quick video before I start my day. The older I get the more I cherish my reference books. Have a great day everyone. 73
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What's your favorite reference for general shop practice?
When I started machine shop trade school in the late 70s I ecall spending many, many, many hours at the grinder learning this skill free hand. Its a skill that has served me very well.
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when i was an 18 year old apprentice , it was easy to get the correct angles freehand . over 40 years later the keenness of eye and steadiness of hand makes this jig a compelling project. thanks for the videos .
Thanks
Good morning Mr. Pete, Great class on tool sharpening. Now time for coffee.
Thanks again Mr Pete, a clear demonstration of the jig and how to grind a lathe tool. You are a legend of the machining world.
Love it Mr Pete you are the best my old shop teacher was such an inspiration in my life. Having a person who really cares about his students make all the difference in the world thank God for teachers who care.
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The books you recommend are great but watching and learning from you is priceless. Thank you Mr. Pete
Thanks
I'm probably a bit different than the typical viewer here. While I am probably close to the same age as many of you (50), I am just beginning my apprenticeship as a toolmaker. I've been in the program for about a year and a half and have become wonderfully fascinated with learning as much as I can. These videos have been an important part of my learning.
In today's workforce with more modern machinery, many of the tips and techniques seen here are a bit obsolete. Yet I believe it is essential to know and understand what Mr. Pete continues to show as the very foundation of what I am attempting to learn.
I'm so appreciative and grateful for the many videos and vast amount of time you spend in teaching. Thank you.
Thank you very much for watching and commenting. I am glad I videos have helped you. Good luck in your apprenticeship
I like to use low carbon scrap to grind form tools that can be used on HDPE plastic. I've also used it on aluminum one off prototypes. Thanks for putting these videos together for us Mr. Peterson!
That's what I was thinking. what other materials; brass, etc? can or do they need to be hardened? If they were, could they cut mild steel? Tnx!
You may have created the only video on how to use this jig. I've never seen another. Great explanation and thank you, very much.
Thanks
Mr. Pete sir, you mentioned the channel suffering. You are such a wealth of lifetime knowledge, sharing teaching yet another generation. Barring the internet just evaporating in future, your legacy will touch who knows how many generations to come. Please don't get discouraged with the algorithm and views and whatever; please continue making whatever content you will. I'm forty-three and wish I'd gotten the manufacturing bug twenty years ago instead of five years ago. Now I've managed to get dozens of younger people into it, and largely due to your vids and others. . They are in a better place younger and their future brighter. Because of you and persons like you.
Thank you very much for the encouragement.
I dont grind enough so I will probably use this for reference every time. Thanks for a great video.
Thanks Mr. Pete. Just completed this project. It works very well for me with my arthritic hands.
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You are a great man, thank you teacher, I am from Saudi Arabia
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For the FIRST time I now understand the entire process. You answered SO many questions. A big THANKS, Mr. Pete.
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And yet, another winner. Thank you, “Mr. Pete”.
Brilliant series! I've built most of your other tool series (wiggler, tap follower, float lock vise, etc.) but this lathe tool grinder is in my opinion the best tool and the most useful plan you've ever offered. At my age and lack of good eyesight, I can't tell you how much I appreciate this. Very cool, and one that I'll be building this weekend. Can't wait to get it done!
Thanks so much!
All the best,
Bob in Seattle
Thank you very very very much. I needed that encouragement. Glad you like the video
Lyle - Excellent video early on a rainy morning with the second cup of coffee. I imagine you have the video on making the gauge finished already - but if using a quick change tool holder it would be easy enough to modify the one angle as South Bend designed it to use the Armstrong and such tool holders with the built in angle. Like you said, once you wrap your head around the why of the angles easy enough to do free hand and get good results. Like a lot of things, just a bit of experience helps quite a bit as you move along. Keep up the good work, I'm sure the more in depth explanation helps beginners. And those of us more experienced are never to old to pick up a trick or two we did not learn over the years. Thanks.
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Excellent series, as usual, Mr. P.
If one is the heel then the other would be the toe - as in the sole of a hand plane.
All the best,
-- Joe
Wish I would have thought of that
joe Scarborough... thee joe Scarborough from morning joe? i never figured you had to time to turn steel you have Mika to attend to! LOL
Thank you Mr Pete. I may make one these to use on my surface grinder so I can put the final touches on, after I get it close by hand.
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Thanks again for another great video! Although I think you have covered it before, in one of your follow up videos, probably the one on dressing wheels you should demonstrate how to check for cracked wheels by ring testing it. As a cabinetmaker / millman for 48 years, it's the first thing I show an apprentice when I start to teach them how to grind shaper and sticker knives.
What is "ring testing"? I'm always nervous about the grooves that I leave in my wheels by grinding my tungsten on them (for tig welding). I'm looking forward to his wheel dressing video.
@@EuroclydonEng Hi Dennis, "Ring Testing" to check for cracked wheels is vary simple. With the grinding wheel off the grinder or before mounting a new wheel, with one hand hold the wheel with one finger through the arbor hole, next with the other hand take a metal object like a 1/2" drill bit or a wrench, lithely tap on the side of the wheel. You should hear a ring sound if it's not cracked, if it's a thud sound most likely it's cracked even if you don't see any. I wouldn't worry about the grooves from grinding tungsten on the face of the wheel.
Be sure and watch episodes 798. I talk about the ring test And actually perform the test. But I do not think the sound was picked up
Keep up these HSS instructional videos Mr. Pete. Many of us want to learn the old school techniques. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks
You are a very good teacher! Your students were ver6 lucky to have had you as a teacher. I thank you for your time and wisdom.
Thanks
Thanks, Mr. Pete. This is the BEST explanation I have heard on the grinding angles. I truly appreciate your teaching style and your explanations in all your videos. You are truly sharing your knowledge in a sincere and friendly way that is so pleasing to watch. I've learned so many things from your videos over the years. I always look forward to the next one! Have a great day teacher!
You are very welcome, I’m glad you like my videos
Mr. Pete,
When I took two years of gunsmithing at the local Jr. College, the machine shop teacher taught us to grind hss tool it's. The cupped wheel does make it easier. The second year when we were working with 4140 and stainless barrels, I invested in carbide tool holders. They worked great on the 14x40 LeBlond lathe at school. On my 10 inch South end, not enough horsepower to make cuts deep enough for good finishes with the carbide inserts.
Thanks for the series of videos, I enjoyed them.
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I don’t have a shop. I’m watching because I enjoy the trade. Plus, Mr. Petersen is my favorite teacher that I never had. 🍎
Thank you very much
Glad that you do these videos, alot of guys like me use HSS because it is found cheap at auctions and sales, fits the older tool posts and holders since most production is now carbide. Appreciate it Tubalcain.
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A very clear and useful demonstration. I sure wish I’d had one of these when I started in the machine shop over fifty years ago. I grind all of my tools by hand and touch them up on my belt grinder with a fine grit belt. The belt grinder gives a slightly better finish and is easier to control the angle.
When I was in high school metalworking class learning to grind tool bits we were taught to do it free hand with no mention of this fixture. I never knew such existed until now. If I did know I had forgotten about it. I hated grinding tool bits with a purple passion because it would eat up the whole class period, burned my fingers, and I couldn't get to the project until the next day. The next day I would wind up dulling the tool and spending the remainder of that class period re-sharpening.
When I discovered carbide and quick-change tooling I pretty much left HSS behind, but still occasionally need something special that HSS can deliver faster and cheaper than carbide for one-off jobs.
Now, with progressed arthritic hands I have an even greater appreciation for such a tool and will now have to add it to my list of shop tools to be built.
Thank you for adding the still photos at the end. It allows me to take screen shots and archive the information for later use. Very much appreciated!
Great video series. In my shop training we did not have the bit holder. It took a little time, but I got pretty good at free hand. Thanks for the service you provide.
As apprentices, we were given the lecture, then each was given a "master" sample and told to duplicate it, working freehand. From there we would be shown its use on the machines.
What was interesting to me was that in a short time our instructor could recognise which of us in the group of 10 had ground which tool! He was able to do the same with our freehand sharpened drill bits, as well as our finished projects. I'd guess you were able to recognise the "hand" of your students, too.
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Truly an exceptional teacher. Keep up the great work!
Thanks
What Lyle is showing here is the very bassos of all machining and without it you will bever understand how to be a real machine hand.
I was first instructed in tool grinding in High School by our shop teacher Mr. Jim Jamison back in 1963 ,,,, 3/8" bits regular HSS,,,,Free Hand,,,,Round nose on one end and a facing tool on the other also free hand.
It has served me well to this day. Even in the Army in Vietnam I was the only one in the Platoon that had any idea about Rake and Clearance angles,,,,and I would be in base camp in a tent at night with a gas lantern filling saws and chain saw chains until I taught a couple other guys how to do it, -(We were combat Engineers)
It is a knowledge that has served me well all my life to this day. I even touch up carbide inserts when they are not chipped too bad. ,,,, It shocks me to go into a shop today and see 30 plus year old men running CNC lathes and mills who have no clue about rakes and clearances. I have even had some of them laugh at me when they see me grinding a drill bit. (Untill they see it cutting better then new) they think when you dull or chip a drill you throw it away. Total ignorance personified, and its because nobody taught them how to do it.
It was the beginning of the end when there are no more Mr Petes, and Mr Jamisons.to show us how to do it,,,, and idiot school boards that cut out industrial arts and replace it with diversity and sexual identify classes. No wounder we get virtually un-employable collage graduates.,,,, that can;t read.
Thank you for an interesting comment. You are so right, that most people cannot sharpen anything more complicated than a pencil. They consider all cutting tools disposable. I’m glad you have the realization of how important industrial arts really Was.
Thanks so much for this series Lyle. I learnt so much and I am very grateful you made them.
I was just planning on watching till I finished my morning coffee. I really enjoy your videos, so I ended up sticking around to the end. Thank you for another great video.
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Mr. Pete, thank you. I knew nothing about this tool for sharpening lathe bits until you did this series of videos. I am contemplating making one just to see if I can do it without a mill (I don't own one) and have it look like it was done using one. My mill consists of a high tension hacksaw, files and a belt sander. I have always used the hand sharpening method with OK results. I have seen a different video where the maker used Dykem and a scribe for the angles and I will be using this as an aid. Instead of Dykem, I use a giant blue Sharpie. The Craftsman lathe book also has excellent pictures of how to sharpen lathe cutting tools and acceptable angles used for different materials.
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A great series and project build. Thank you for sharing, Mr. Pete. Would you like the other upcoming 4 videos included on the project page?
Joe
Always enjoy watching even though I'm a programmer and not a machinist. Maybe it's just because I'm old too and enjoy seeing old people work and play.
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You make me smile. You r great!
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Another excellent video. Thank you Mr. Pete. Using the angles produced by the SB grinding fixture you don't get any back rake when using the QC toolholder.
Lyle, I plan to build one of these cutting tool grinding jigs for use with my old (1911) South Bend lathe. I don't know whether tge lathe is sturdy enough to use carbide insert tooling and (so far) only have its original lantern-type tool holder. Therefore I'm limited to HSS cutting tools for the time being. I'm glad that you recommended practicing on key-stock instead of HSS! I'll do my practicing on that before risking possible wasting of HSS. Now I need to find a few more Armstrong-type tool holders!
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If I was a teacher in a shop class, I’d definitely be using your videos sir! Your videos are solid gold 🤗 thank you for all that you do.
I am still not understanding as to why you haven’t reach WAAAYYY over a million subscribers yet?!?! People need to subscribe if they be watching the videos 🤨
Thank you for watching. Yes, I am very discouraged by the loan number of viewers
Another good one! Probably the only demonstration out there of using that block. Thanks. We love all your videos!!
Thanks
I don't know who did your drawings but they are really well done! Thank you for all the work you put into these videos! I appreciate you letting us see your "apprentice" marks; makes me feel better about all of mine.
Thanks
most interesting and useful for hobby lathe owners!
Carbide really loves to take a heavy bite to get a decent finish. I've got some Iscar WNMG inserts that Tom Lipton recommended, and they will turn a mirror finish on steel ***if*** you take a heavy enough bite. >0.050" depth of cut and maybe 0.010"/rev feed rate makes them pretty happy. Try to shave off 0.005" and you get a grainy finish.
It's led me to plan my cuts more carefully and to be certain that I have a good measurement for that last cut.
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I will definitely be making one of these jigs so my boys can learn to make their own bits and quit dulling mine. Oh yeah, with my "old eyes" I will probably be using it too.
Thank You Mr Pete, you always have useful, interesting content.
Thanks
Great Information Mr Peterson.....Cheers, PB
I dont know if your talking to me but thanks Les i enjoyed the program but not the waiting for the. upload . it reminded me of the incurrence man that came to look at the damage to my work shop. roof . AS he informed me they do not do felt roof's. I said you never said that when you took my money. yes it doesn't apply except you said the was [ 4'perts] You did not say how long to post them LOL so one can get them did one. thanks any way for the effort . even if slow .
Thank you Mr. Peterson. I purchased one of these, with most of the inserts and, one of the remanufactured cutting gauges off of Ebay from "Alisam engineering". Your videos really help make my Vintage SB 9A 4' bed is an awesome machine. If it's okay with you, I would like to post a snapshot of you on my shop wall next to my lathe. You are an inspiration to us all. Thanks again,
Jim🙂
Thank you for watching and commenting Yes. post my picture
Nice series.Thank you.Also let you know that I finished today my "tubal crane" following your design.It works well.
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Great to see the jig in action!
Thanks for the video Mr Pete, very enjoyable and very informative. I really liked this longer video.
Thanks
I am a newbie abut mills and lathes and I am a a owner of a new to me atlas lathe and a Bridgeport mill thank you so much for the videos
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Thanks Mr.Pete for the great video!
Thanks for the refresher course, I grind my own 1/2" high speed,thanks for the video🤗😎🤗😎
I use mostly HSS. You teach it just as I learned it in HS.A refresher is always good.
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Thank you for making this and all the videos you make, always educational, always something funny. You are the best. I’ve said it before I wish you would have been my shop teacher in high school. Thank you for your time and knowledge.
Thank you very much, keep watching
Wonderful video. Very helpful for me... The poster child for Novice!
Thanks for the effort and time for your videos
Thanks, Mr Pete.
As a old-school barber (38 yrs) I learned how to use a hone & strop...anywho when my cutting tool starts to dull i rub leather over the cutting area(in a stropping motion)...does it work ? not sure, in my mind it does.
Mr. Pete great videos I've learned a lot our school in Tennessee never offered shop class!! I thought a jig was only used to catch crappie!!
lol
You're in good company. The 90's and early 2000s left a lot of students (myself included) without a decent shop class because "everything will be done by computers". (Jetsons and Terminator became school doctrine instead of fiction 🤣)
Au contraire mon ami, some of us are paying attention at 25:10 or so.
That angle is for us to utilize.
I should try your marking method. That would work far better than angle thoughts in my head AND I should put my big-boy trousers on and make a block and two sleeves. By hand I'm always getting multi-faceted faces on the tools. They can produce beautiful results sometimes but like you say, they don't look good.
Fascinating video to me! Even tho I typed too much. I get a confident fix watching your vids!
Thank you very much, glad you liked the video
Very informative! Thanks. Not only are you a great machinist. You are also a great sales person. I now want to buy the blocks and gauge you showed because I now know what they are used for and how to use them. Penn Tool, I suggest sending Mr. Pete a liitle token of appreciation.
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Thanks for the video.
I had a grinding jig, but this how to use video was very helpful.
I find I'm moving away from carbide and back to high-speed steel, so this is a project to be on the list, thanks MrPete
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Thank you Sir for is information
Excellent information
Would a 2" x 72" belt grinder perform as well as a bench grinder or is there some sort of drawback with using a the belt grinder?
Yes, I often use my belt sander. But did not want to confuse the issue in this video
finally i got it. yes i made one I could. not find a Squair plug socket out of my old spear sockets A offend it to drill to except the tool steal into the square of the 3/8 tooling in my socket. then , Then heated the block & put the socket in my deep freeze & pressed it home in the sleeve . I did not put the engraving on the The sleeve Insted i made a stick out circular boss a little. Deeper & engraved that insted, Putting the Zero on The sleeve instead, Cutting down on the need for engraving of sleeves, & putting the Zero on the Face of the block to with it scribe mark easily done in the way you demon-striate it in the lathe 4way chuck . I hop this meet's with your approval . Les in England. once softened drilling the oppstruction in the socket is easy . Filing doesn't work to hard.
I dont know if your talking to me but thanks les
Great ideas
This is hilarious, four smileys for Les. 😊😊😊😊
Have you used stellite for tools, I have heard that it's almost as easy to sharpen as high speed steel and last almost as long as carbide?
Satellite is sometimes used for exhaust valves due to it’s hardness and extreme heat durability but I’ve never heard of it being used for cutting tools.
Stellite 100 is the alloy most used for cutting tools. There are many variations of stellite alloys, the main use for it today is hip replacements. Wood turners have been silver soldering it to carbon steel and using it to make a scraper tool for wood turning. Stellite 100 will hold it's edge much longer than high speed steel however it can be sharpened with regular grinding wheels.
@@waltcrawford6153 Thanks Walt, very interesting about the different uses of Stellite. I learned something new today.
Thanks Lyle, great video
I have the drawings and hope to make one soon... Thanks for sharing ... stay safe and well ...
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Thanks pete keep it up!
Thank you for the training
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I tried looking up grinding jig on eBay, but couldn’t find it!
Thank you for sharing.👍👀
Very good thanks for the video
Dear Mr. Pete, I am from Mexico and I have a South Ben CL670 R lathe and I have it disassembled because I need some parts, how can I contact you for advice?
lislepete22@yahoo.com
I enjoy your channel and hope comments help move it up!
Thanks
Valuable info, as usual.
I had a big 12 in grinding wheel explode while grinding once I was white as a ghost for a bit. Luckily we always wore glasses face sheild and leather apron so there was no injury sustained
Excellent video!
Thanks
Great video.
Mr. Pete. You should get some of those new tight yogurt pants. They seem to help a lot with views.
lol
If you can find an open K-Mart, they might have it in stock.
lol
Give Tubelcain some Likes and Share! Love your videos, Mr. Pete!
Thanks
Great video!
How much it’s the cost for the grinding tool jig
Super helpful!
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It looks like you are using a hard wheel. I was taught that for HSS, a softer wheel, grade H or I, will actually grind faster and cooler. Counter intuitive, but true in my experience.
Thanks
At least they did not make spitballs out of the drawing. Fun group of videos.
At 16 life is a race.... at 60 its a pace.
True
Gee, That was to quick but thanks for sharing 👍
I just had to laugh when you said at 1:20 "If possible get yourself a copy of this book. Of course it is from 1935 so you will not find it at K mart." That sure is true and you will not find K mart either. Like Montgomery Wards and many others K mart has gone the way of the Dodo Bird.
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Your state must be a lot better than NC because they have just about taking all trads classes in schools and not much offered at local college
I am a frequent viewer of your channel and I am of similar age. Your recent posting for the South Bend Grinding Jig struck me as an interesting project and I decided it was one I was ready to tackle. So I went to myheap.com to get the plans and downloaded the offering by JHM because it looked the most like a normal drawing. I proceeded to work on the jig but after I cut the 10° slope on the body part, I realized I had put it on the wrong end. (I already had the two holes drilled in the top.) After checking the drawing more closely, I realized the drawing was in error and that’s why I made the mistake. Granted it was partly my fault for not checking the drawing’s validity but I wanted you to be aware of the issue since others may make the same mistake.
Thank you for the comment. I’ll tell you something right now. There were more drawings of this project than what I really wanted. I was unable to proofread them. I had a hunch that there might be some mistakes. And there might be lots more than what you discovered sorry about that. Probably does not matter a whole lot, because who else will actually make this project, LOL. I almost forgot to say, I really have no way of correcting this. That would involve more than three people, and lots of time