Even while working without a lift? The videos I watched from the wheelwell (so far) were all from a lift. I am game for doing either, but do not have a loft available
I use fans (corded or cordless) whenever I do engine work, cool things down so much quicker that it is almost comfortable to work on and also clears the chemical fumes.
Did you put the bolts in while attaching the vacuum pump there wasn't enough room to put the bolts in after putting the vacuum pump on in my case so I had to do it as a unit I used an aftermarket vacuum pump as well and it's still leaking not as bad as when I replaced the original one, I head that your suppose to put rtv on the gasket as well is this true? Or does the OEM vacuum pump have a better seal on it than aftermarkets I was able to confirm it was seated properly as well
I think I'm having this issue as well. would this also cause a grinding noise when slowing down and braking? I know it's not the brakes as I just had the rotors and pads changed.
Maybe your brake vacuum pump located on the driver side behind headlight, they tend to fail and then when cold start up, your brakes tend to not seem to work properly with grinding noise. A remedy is to rev the engine until it is at warm idle to have enough pressure to make brakes operate properly until you swap brake vacuum pump
Question: i know you have to line it up with the cam but will the pump not go back in if it isn't lined up? Or do you have to actually figure out the CAM position to line it up?
So can it go in if it’s not lined up ? Like is it possible to put it in “out of time”? Or can it only go back in with the cam lined up? I hope my question makes sense…
I'm hoping someone will see this..I'm definitely having this issue with my 14' F150 3.5 ecoboost. Strong smell of oil burning comes through the vents sometimes and I've seen smoke come from this region. However, I also have a brake light on my dash (not for parking brake) that will not turn off. I've had my brakes serviced and the light still stays on. Do you think this part is causing that light since it helps with the braking system?
I bought cheap coils for my 6.2 because I had some sparking to the head. Bad idea. Started getting trans shudder on hills then a blinking light. GOt a P0305. First I thought it was TQ shudder, I mean, how can coils go bad that fast? The boots and resistors through work great with the old coils. A set of 8 coils for less than $100 :lol:. Can't believe how good that engine rides, close to 200K. Must have been real pissed when I put in those junk coils :lol:.
depending on build date or engine you may not have one. It's only necessary on a boosted application and around halfway through the 2017 model year they moved away from them. You should be able to trace the vac system from the brake booster to see where it leads.
@chrisoffutt8968 wow bummer! I ordered the part and now stuck with it. I do have a twin turbo but you said halfway through 2017 they stopped putting it..thanks for the reply
Turbo and supercharger engines use them the most but some normally aspirated engines have them in Benz’s. The large vacuum pipe always connects to the brake booster. I guess some engines don’t produce enough vacuum for emergency braking/brake assist.
Just got quoted 814$ for a replacement on my 2013 EB SCREW. For what you just showed me how can they be charging this much? I assume every Ford mechanic is doing the same procedure you showed.
@@FordBossMe thank you. I just emailed you a pic. Please let me know your thoughts and thank you so much for everything you've done for the Ford community!
Holy cow, man. I just watched a video about this on another channel I subscribe too. What are the odds that two channels you subscribe to drop a video about the same issue? Crazy!
Yeah I had this part ordered since 5 28 22 The channel that you are talking about is flying wrenches he did the same type of video as me it's just a coincidence because Powerstroke Tech talk with A-Rod sent me the same thing because we text each other privately and I sent him a picture of the work order where the parts had already been ordered and it came in today
I just just replaced mine 2013 it’s a pain in the ass ford should replace it for free . Just a tip loosen all three bolts and pull out and put the bolts back in the new one before you put it back in
The problem with doing it that way is there's a sealer underneath that cap and it's called in anaerobic sealer it only dries whenever you take away oxygen and when you break the surface and then bolt it back down your susceptible to leaks
Volvo uses the same style on their 3.2L and 3.0L engines except they have a seal kit where you disassemble the pump, replace all the seals and reinstall it. Cheaper for the customer, a little more labor time for the tech.
Very likely. I have the same issue and just replaced all the seals on my vacuum pump to see if that fixes it. It was covered in oil when I pulled it off, so either that or valve cover gasket
as if the turbo pipes DONT leak!!! and we shall ignore the horrible plastic v/c that required no less than 3 redesigns to NOT melt. and then there's the 12 hr front cover. but yeah, TH-cam is full of ACTUAL techs.
Hello anyone that can help lead me in the right direction or provide any information I would be greatly appreciative. I have a 2015 Ford Expedition EL Limited 3.5L, I have been noticing a burning and smoking but it’s not consistent. Also my check engine light came on with a code P0299 turbo/supercharger eco boost. I thought somehow it was all connected but when I just took my truck to the shop I was told that the vacuum pump power brake booster needed to be replaced as well as the valve cover gasket because the gasket needed to be removed to get to bolts which is on the engine. I was quoted $778.46 which $300 is for the brake vacuum pump and $130.00 is for the pair of valve cover gaskets which he said I could just save the driver side because they supposedly don’t come separate and the other $300 is labor. However, I’m wondering if it true that when replacing this part on my truck the only way to get to it is removing the valve cover gaskets and then replacing with new ones? Also I’d like to add that I don’t seem to notice any issue with my brakes or noise at all just the burning smell and smoking sometimes. Any suggestions or advice please and thanks in advance!!
Well that vacuum pump leaks around the gasket which is attached to the back of the cylinder head right by the valve cover gasket so it sounds like the guys on the right track
@@FordBossMe So pricing for everything seems to be fair and correct? Because I seen you quoted about an hour to do it and labor rates aren’t $300 an hour at his shop and of course unfortunately if I purchase parts elsewhere it’s not warranted so I can’t cut cost with parts even though I’ve found the pump for lower than $300 I didn’t even look up cost on gaskets because what’s the point if it’s not going to carry the warranty.
Just love seeing all these ecoboost videos with every last one essentially being in a fucking truck🙃🤬 just blew a turbo and I'm sure my vacuum pump is shot as well in my 2015 SHO . Almost no videos on TH-cam AT ALL on this car . Might be the same engine but that shit sits SUPER tight in the Taurus. Some more content on other Ecoboost models (specifically the Taurus) would greatly be appreciated!!
@@FordBossMe oh trust me you will be seeing my vehicle soon. The whole car is content worthy at this point lmao 🤣 but also at this point I was planning on upgrading the car and essentially beefing a lot of things up. Can that be done at your shop??
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You are an absolute legend for putting this information out there for all us amateurs! Thank you sir
Glad to help
There’s a lot of good videos on this, but I think yours is the most direct especially with saving the clip
Rich cares more about giving us the information than he does the TH-cam $. For him it’s truly helping others that matter.
Going through the wheel well is less physically taxing, and gives you a better visual perspective
Even while working without a lift? The videos I watched from the wheelwell (so far) were all from a lift. I am game for doing either, but do not have a loft available
Mine just started. Man I’m glad I found your video. 👍🏻
I got through the fender liner to do it. It’s an extra step but much more comfortable.
It wasn't hard thos way and very easy, just a little hot
Why open that can of worms?
I use fans (corded or cordless) whenever I do engine work, cool things down so much quicker that it is almost comfortable to work on and also clears the chemical fumes.
Thank you Rich, I feel better about taking this on now!
Thank you sir! Very helpful information. I didn’t know where to begin looking for this leak. Aces brother!! 👍🏻🤘🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸
Did you drain the engine oil before removing this vacuum pump?
I usually take the fender liner out, straight shot from there, and add a dab of rtv to the seam where the valve cover and head meet
Same here, it says to add that dab of rtv right in the service info.
what RTV do you use? Ultra Black by Permatex?
Thought 2016 last year for the pump and seal?
Did you put the bolts in while attaching the vacuum pump there wasn't enough room to put the bolts in after putting the vacuum pump on in my case so I had to do it as a unit I used an aftermarket vacuum pump as well and it's still leaking not as bad as when I replaced the original one, I head that your suppose to put rtv on the gasket as well is this true? Or does the OEM vacuum pump have a better seal on it than aftermarkets I was able to confirm it was seated properly as well
I don't really remember either way as long as you get them in there that's all that matters
I think I'm having this issue as well. would this also cause a grinding noise when slowing down and braking? I know it's not the brakes as I just had the rotors and pads changed.
I don't know if it would cause grinding noise
Maybe your brake vacuum pump located on the driver side behind headlight, they tend to fail and then when cold start up, your brakes tend to not seem to work properly with grinding noise. A remedy is to rev the engine until it is at warm idle to have enough pressure to make brakes operate properly until you swap brake vacuum pump
Question: i know you have to line it up with the cam but will the pump not go back in if it isn't lined up? Or do you have to actually figure out the CAM position to line it up?
The pump won't go in if it's not lined up but you still need to figure it out though don't try to skip that stuff
@FordBossMe thanks! I'm changing mine this weekend and wanted to make sure I get the alignment correct. I appreciate it!
So can it go in if it’s not lined up ? Like is it possible to put it in “out of time”? Or can it only go back in with the cam lined up? I hope my question makes sense…
Lime rock finish on that 3.5 is lovely isn’t it?
Great information! You really get into your work. I bet all they could see from the office is your work boots. 🤣🐶🐕
Thank you for this video it does help a lot!
I'm hoping someone will see this..I'm definitely having this issue with my 14' F150 3.5 ecoboost. Strong smell of oil burning comes through the vents sometimes and I've seen smoke come from this region. However, I also have a brake light on my dash (not for parking brake) that will not turn off. I've had my brakes serviced and the light still stays on. Do you think this part is causing that light since it helps with the braking system?
Possible. Do you have a stiffer brake pedal than before? that would be a sign of lack of brake boosting which operates based on vacuum
Thank you. What is your Labor Op time? How long did it take you?
Honestly it only takes about an hour
I have a 2016 3.5 f150 non turbo flex fuel. Do those have the same pump?
No.
You mechanics impress me working blind in those tight ass places. It makes me nervous and frustrated just looking at it smh
Correct me if I am wrong
Did you forgot or I missed where you supposed to put silicone on it on 2 specific spots ??🤔🤔
They want you to put a dab of silicone where the two cracks meat on each side
I bought cheap coils for my 6.2 because I had some sparking to the head. Bad idea. Started getting trans shudder on hills then a blinking light. GOt a P0305. First I thought it was TQ shudder, I mean, how can coils go bad that fast?
The boots and resistors through work great with the old coils. A set of 8 coils for less than $100 :lol:. Can't believe how good that engine rides, close to 200K. Must have been real pissed when I put in those junk coils :lol:.
Great video Rich thanks for sharing stay safe.
👋Sir very nice explanation and information, blessings.
Would this cause drops of white smoke to come from that exact back region occasionally? I have something dripping down And vaporizing from that area
Yeah or it could be coolant
I’m having the exact same issue. Did this solve your problem???
My passenger side valve cover had a small leak. I replaced the vacuum pump and valve cover and it’s been fine ever since
great video but it seems different on my 2017, i've been looking for over an hour and cant locate it! help please
depending on build date or engine you may not have one. It's only necessary on a boosted application and around halfway through the 2017 model year they moved away from them. You should be able to trace the vac system from the brake booster to see where it leads.
@chrisoffutt8968 wow bummer! I ordered the part and now stuck with it. I do have a twin turbo but you said halfway through 2017 they stopped putting it..thanks for the reply
I have a 2019 2.7. do those have the same pump?
No
2013+, 2011 and 2012 had electric pump behind drivers headlight
was that engine supercharged? You don't normally see vacuum pumps in gas apps.
Pump provides vacuum to the master cylinder. Thanks for the video!
Title says ecoboost and that means Ford TURBOS
Turbo and supercharger engines use them the most but some normally aspirated engines have them in Benz’s.
The large vacuum pipe always connects to the brake booster. I guess some engines don’t produce enough vacuum for emergency braking/brake assist.
Just got quoted 814$ for a replacement on my 2013 EB SCREW. For what you just showed me how can they be charging this much? I assume every Ford mechanic is doing the same procedure you showed.
Yep
Capitalism my guy
I miss your live videos
This kit doesn't appear to be available for a 2018. Are we sure the '17s and '18 have this pump?
Call up your dealer tomorrow give them the VIN number and ask for the part number for the vacuum pump
they switched from the mechanical pump after 2016
2017 on no pump
What about for a 2018 3.5 F150? I just discovered something is leaking from the top of the engine on the passenger side. Thoughts?
I'd need to see the leak,
Poissorichard.rp@gmail.com
@@FordBossMe thank you. I just emailed you a pic. Please let me know your thoughts and thank you so much for everything you've done for the Ford community!
Likely cracked valve cover just had mine replaced yesterday. Both sides commonly crack
Great video 😉
Thanks, good stuff
great video thank you
Holy cow, man. I just watched a video about this on another channel I subscribe too. What are the odds that two channels you subscribe to drop a video about the same issue? Crazy!
Yeah I had this part ordered since 5 28 22
The channel that you are talking about is flying wrenches he did the same type of video as me it's just a coincidence because Powerstroke Tech talk with A-Rod sent me the same thing because we text each other privately and I sent him a picture of the work order where the parts had already been ordered and it came in today
Same here saw it there too this is going to help me a bunch being a newer ford tech aswell
I just just replaced mine 2013 it’s a pain in the ass ford should replace it for free . Just a tip loosen all three bolts and pull out and put the bolts back in the new one before you put it back in
The problem with doing it that way is there's a sealer underneath that cap and it's called in anaerobic sealer it only dries whenever you take away oxygen and when you break the surface and then bolt it back down your susceptible to leaks
It's a thin red anaerobic sealer
What if the filter get stuck in engine after pump is removed? Snatch off with pliers?
Do the best you can to get the pump off if changing it ans make sure everything gets removed carefully that you are changing
@@FordBossMe I already removed the pump and that long filter stayed in, when I removed the pump.
Should I also put the oily pump on my trim and let it stain?
I don't care
Benz has used a nearly identical VP since 03. Most them eventually leak. Thankfully ours aren’t under the cowl!
Volvo uses the same style on their 3.2L and 3.0L engines except they have a seal kit where you disassemble the pump, replace all the seals and reinstall it. Cheaper for the customer, a little more labor time for the tech.
I get a oil burning smell threw my vents inside the vehicle wonder if this is it..I don't see no leaks
Going to have to look around the engine for oil leaks
Very likely. I have the same issue and just replaced all the seals on my vacuum pump to see if that fixes it. It was covered in oil when I pulled it off, so either that or valve cover gasket
Does this effect the 3.5 n/a too?
No I don't believe so but it's easy to check
Not your Lincoln
@@FordBossMe ok cool. Thank you for looking
Man that looks super annoying doing it from up top, I’ve always pulled the wheel liner and gotten it from the wheel well
It's easier from rhe top honestly
@@FordBossMe hey to each their own lol
as if the turbo pipes DONT leak!!!
and we shall ignore the horrible plastic v/c that required no less than 3 redesigns to NOT melt. and then there's the 12 hr front cover.
but yeah, TH-cam is full of ACTUAL techs.
Hello anyone that can help lead me in the right direction or provide any information I would be greatly appreciative. I have a 2015 Ford Expedition EL Limited 3.5L, I have been noticing a burning and smoking but it’s not consistent. Also my check engine light came on with a code P0299 turbo/supercharger eco boost. I thought somehow it was all connected but when I just took my truck to the shop I was told that the vacuum pump power brake booster needed to be replaced as well as the valve cover gasket because the gasket needed to be removed to get to bolts which is on the engine. I was quoted $778.46 which $300 is for the brake vacuum pump and $130.00 is for the pair of valve cover gaskets which he said I could just save the driver side because they supposedly don’t come separate and the other $300 is labor. However, I’m wondering if it true that when replacing this part on my truck the only way to get to it is removing the valve cover gaskets and then replacing with new ones? Also I’d like to add that I don’t seem to notice any issue with my brakes or noise at all just the burning smell and smoking sometimes. Any suggestions or advice please and thanks in advance!!
Well that vacuum pump leaks around the gasket which is attached to the back of the cylinder head right by the valve cover gasket so it sounds like the guys on the right track
@@FordBossMe So pricing for everything seems to be fair and correct? Because I seen you quoted about an hour to do it and labor rates aren’t $300 an hour at his shop and of course unfortunately if I purchase parts elsewhere it’s not warranted so I can’t cut cost with parts even though I’ve found the pump for lower than $300 I didn’t even look up cost on gaskets because what’s the point if it’s not going to carry the warranty.
Just love seeing all these ecoboost videos with every last one essentially being in a fucking truck🙃🤬 just blew a turbo and I'm sure my vacuum pump is shot as well in my 2015 SHO . Almost no videos on TH-cam AT ALL on this car . Might be the same engine but that shit sits SUPER tight in the Taurus. Some more content on other Ecoboost models (specifically the Taurus) would greatly be appreciated!!
Have to have the vehicle to do the videos
@@FordBossMe oh trust me you will be seeing my vehicle soon. The whole car is content worthy at this point lmao 🤣 but also at this point I was planning on upgrading the car and essentially beefing a lot of things up. Can that be done at your shop??
Send that email one more time brother man
Poissorichard.rp@gmail.com
Step #1: Pressure wash that nasty ass motor before doing anything.
Your camera is moving around too much and watching makes me dizzy to watch the video.
That sounds like it's a personal problem because I can't go back and change anything so there's no point in complaining about it