I love watching the gentleman at work thank u 👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
hello good evening I saw that you put the super nice transparent crankcase cover I would like to put it too This clear crankcase cover for Suzuki RF900 R I'm looking but I can't find anything can you please tell me the link where to buy? or the compatible model of the suzuki that I have to take
hej a ta duża nakrętka to na jaką nasadkę ? i masz fajną pokrywę sprzęgła szukałem czegoś takiego ale nie ma :), Wymieniałeś cały komplet metalowe i materiałowe podkładki ?
Hej, sorki nie za bardzo skumalem o jaka nakretke chodzi. Pokrywa sprzegla robiona zamowienie w UK, gosc jest w stanie wstawic okno prawie do kazdej pokrywy. £175 plus wysylka. Wymienilem tylko tarcze cierne. Buziaki !
@@Adikxx siema sorki że tak męczę przemierzam się do wymiany łańcucha rozrządu w RF ce i mam pytanko czy ślizgi też wymieniać odrazu na nowe ? czy w zależności od zużycia? gdyż nie wiem na ile starczą jak się ich nie wymieni. No i co z napinaczem czy one są awaryjne ?
@@krispoland4452 Siema, nie ma problemu wal smialo o kazdej porze. Moja miala zmienione lancuszek oraz napinacz w 2016 roku. Ja slizgi zostawilem bo wygladaly bardzo dobrze wiec ja bym powiedzial, ze mozesz je zostawic. Jestem prawie pewien, ze jak bys porownal nowy slizg i swoj to roznica bedzie znikoma(no chyba ze masz ponad 100 tys km najechane:) KONIECZNIE wymien napinacz i nie daj sie skusic na manualny napinacz bo to jest proszenie sie o katastrofe. Kup nowy napinacz fabryczny Suzuki. Pytasz czy napinacze sa awaryjne, powiem tak - nie sa awaryjne (bynajmniej te od Suzuki z lat 90, Honda to inna bajka:) tylko sie zwyczajnie zyzywaja. Tam jest w srodku sprezyna, ktora musi coraz bardziej wysuwac bolec napinacza zeby on mogl utrzymywac wymagane napiecie rozciagajacego sie z czasem a wlasciwie przebiegiem lancucha. Im luzniejszy lancuch tym bardziej bolec napinajacy musi byc wysyniety zeby go napiac. Im bardziej wysuniety jest bolec napinacza tym mniej sprezyna jest w stanie oprzec sie "biciu" lancucha(prosta sprawa- scisnieta sprezyna stawia wiekszy opor niz sprezyna rozciagnieta w pelni) . W pozniejszej fazie bolec napinacza moze nawet zaczac pulsowac pod wplywem slabej sprezyny nie tylko w przod i tyl ale i nawet w gore i w dol(o jakies 1 moze 2mm) co daje charaktyrystyczne metaliczne stuki z silnika. Sorry za te wywody :) Pewnie itak wiesz jak jest, ale jak pytasz to rzucam moje 3 grosze. Lancuch D.I.D. i napinacz Suzuki.
This type of clutch uses so called "diaphragm springs". It's those 2 cup shaped washers behind the big nut. Standard clutch springs are not present in this model of clutch.
@@Adikxx So I finally got the correct clutch kit, however it didn't include the one smaller friction disk at the very back of the basket where the 2 small washers sit. Should I replace this disc and the small washer with a regular friction disk? I'm just so confused and want to get this right and not take it back apart. This is the only bike with this Clutch besides the GSXR-1100W model from earlier.
I've been trying to help a friend diagnose a dragging clutch on his R plate RF 900 after it had new gearbox fitted. Would this setup be the same as the R plate? I've recently rebuilt the slave cylinder and bled it a few times. There was no clutch drag before the gearbox was fitted so have questioned if the clutch has been over tightened when the gears were done but we've not had the weather to look at the clutch until recently, but also know I do not have a 50mm socket (yet)
From what i gather "R" plate in the UK is 1997 year? 1997 clutch in RF900 is a different type of clutch without diaphragm springs and 50mm nut is NOT needed to take it all apart. Funny enough i've just finished another RF900 project which was nearly full engine rebuild with installation of 6 speed transmission. In the first episode of that series i did complete clutch disassembly so you might find it useful in your situation. Link to the 1st episode of that of engine rebuild with clutch work below: th-cam.com/video/cvxci5J-qic/w-d-xo.html
@@Adikxx thank you!! It is a 97, when it was sent off for the gearbox issue, a clutch was sent with it but the guy that originally done it said it was the wrong clutch which we have also questioned a few times but will give the video a watch at some point today and subscribe as I can't seem to find much about the rf900 and also being a car mechanic and not worked with bikes in about 20 years, I'm forever looking for things to help a friend out before he ends up scraping the bike
@@phileames1983 You'll get it sorted, matter of time. I have TONNES of RF900 maintenance and mods vids on my channel: carbs rebuild, jetting, exhaust mods,clutch rebuilds,performance cams installation and more. Even built 1100cc RF engine using GSXR 1100 bottom end :) It's a wonderful and underrated bike so make sure your friend doesn't get rid of it :) As a car mechanic with official service manual in your hand working on RF will be a joy.
@@Adikxx just watched the 1st video! The clutch is the same as his zzr 600 which I recently changed so checking the clutch will be easy! I know he's at the stage of put so much money into the bike that it's now got to the stage of he wants to get rid of it but I keep telling him not to as there's something that tells me it's a some fix but it's finding what been done by the previous guy which has caused the drag to come in as it originally left with the 2nd gear gone and no other issues, come back with clutch drag, can't find neutral unless the engine is off , struggle to go through gears but that turned out to be minor adjustment of the gear lever after doing the slave cylinder yesterday but I'll forward the link to the video to him now and hopefully he'll agree to letting me pull the clutch... His main issue at the moment is putting more money into it and possibly not getting rid of the drag but your vid has definitely been the best to watch so far!
@@phileames1983 i'd suggest checking a few things. 1st check if he has correct clutch pushrod in his slave cylinder. There were 2 types differing in length! Next check if all friction plates and steels plates are in correct order as there are 2 steel plates on the middle of the pack which are thicker than others! Also check if he has those 2 large rings(washers) deep in the clutch basket. One is flat and other one is "cup shaped" and needs to be installed right way round. Finally and maybe most importantly-has he got the transmission from the same year RF? Output shafts of early and late transmissions are slightly different lengths and the clutch basket with all plates mounts on it so if it's the wrong one..it might cause issues with engaging/disengaging of the clutch(maybe?) From my experience though check if installing steel plates the other way round clears the issue. I had a bike where clutch was dragging and changing gears was very hard, i flipped all steels the other way round and problem literally went away! Might be woth trying this too. Hope this helps.
Hi is it realy that hard to Come by these clutchplates cause my rf 900 is at the shop but they cant seem to find the right ones So if you have any sugestions on were to order them i would realy apriciate it
There is no problem with getting them(at least in the UK) You could get plates from Fowlers parts, Robinsons Foundry, or even Ebay. Just be careful when ordering as 94 model has different clutch basket than later models.
Sorry to bother you aging is there any way you could show me or send me a pic or link of the clutch basket holding tool you used cause here in the states I keep coming across the type that says it's recommended for the other style clutch..
Link below: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125558788698?itmmeta=01HV93T057GZ9YMJ9SPTE2DECJ&hash=item1d3be3125a:g:KMIAAOxy02dRgMm9&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8K8wstu0uGtBGcwfh5Q%2FzNJPzu5KQdwl0uigoKyo9v6Z5STbrld8Ly5d0ltGIVwxLr8o6j7vilGHT4MszqfBijUg0uLn1hkqR%2BMNQ3%2FvwUFQNU4wCoYYezaF7wH0B6f9duGC3slA32hh0Cm%2B%2BkszhlCTMw6a5jSUUENxuCvA%2BZbeqFTiiCQYIs1aQh80a9w%2FX6T%2BFMBJmxivWj4wf%2BevlsQQbR9f7qLKe9hwYDcuyBy6UZv47ff8g2q876%2B8YYvwhsLFkBYvOan9bFnHsZyP2y9emJgk93%2FR%2BBru2raga9rlK0Irjg%2BoqaPoct6ftL5cNg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM2ILoo9pj
@@travisdykes9135 you could use the newer 5 bolt basket on earlier bikes but you need an additional washer begind the basket due to longer transmission shaft in the earlier bikes. Not sure if earlier basket could be used on later bikes. Cable actuated system is inferior so you wouldn't want that on RF900. Not sure if 600 clutch cover fits 900 crankcases.
I installed brand new clutch plates but it still keeps slipping. Soaked it in oil and measured the plates. Unfortunately i didn't have any plates with white marks so i think that is where the problem lies. It's the 3rd time now that i disassembled my clutch and i don't really want to do it a 4th time. Do you have any idea what i'm doing wrong?
1st question. What type of clutch do you have? The one with big 50mm nut holding the pressure plate? Or the one with classic 5 springs in the pressure plate?
@@KevinvN96 ok so here is what comes to mind: 1- did you replace the friction plates, steel plates and 2 diaphragm plates also? Ideally all those components should be replaced. It's recommended to use EBC harder diaohragm plates. That can help. 2- did you use quality parts? Cheap Ebay knock offs are known to be shit. Friction plates for example are slightly thinner which which means the whole pack of plates will be slimmer. This means that diaphragm springs will have harder job clamping the pack which in return means slipping of clutch. 3-friction plates should be soaked in oil for a few hours before installation 4-clutch slave cylinder can cause problems. Make sure that it operates faultlessly. If the spring inside it doesn't fully push the piston away your clutch will not be fully "released" which will lead to slipping. That spring must be strong and cylinder's surface should be smooth so the seal can freely slide on it without catching. 5.Did you torque up the pressure plate to correct torque? 6.Do you have the 2 large washers there ? One flat and other concave. Flat one first and concave one after pointing towards the engine. 7. Correct oil for wet clutch?
@@Adikxx 1. Yes I did replace the all the plates and the diaphragm plates. They are not ECB plates but they're genuine OEM parts 2. All OEM parts I've ordered 3. Yes I've soaked the plates for at least a day in oil 4. I redid the slave cylinder last year since I thought that was the root of the problem at first and I replaced the rubber and spring in there 5. I don't have a torque wrench for this kind of nut because it's too big so I just tightened it as hard as I could. It's also a bitch to keep the nut on the bolt because it likes to slip off. 6. they're still in there, I didn't touch those washers 7. Yes I do
@@KevinvN96 hmm that's damn weird to be honest as you did everything correctly. Check the thickness of steel plates , i think there should be 7 × 1.6mm plates and 2 x2mm plates. You can buy 2.5mm plates on Ebay to thicken the pack if needed. Finally i think it's beneficial to go for EBC harder diaphragm plates as they provide extra 15-20 % clamp. They're cheap on Ebay(maybe 15-20euros) It won't harm to properly bleed the clucth system. I hope you get it sorted. Shame we don't live closely, if we did i would remove my clutch basket and sent it to you for a test. If bike worked fine on mine we would know something is not right on yours. Sadly we're far away.. :(
Is this a 94 adikxx my rf900r is a 94 and I'm thinking imma have to do the clutch the bike had sat for 10 years + and went to ride it and it's slipping so bad I cannot ride it I rebuilt the slave cylinder all that so don't think it's it
Ok thanks man I'm curious if it's my clutch or the clutch master cylinder relief what the bike does it takes off but then spins bad then catches all the sudden lol I rebuilt my slave cylinder(thanks for that video lol)
So I put brand new clutch and drive plates and at random when riding and when I'm in 3rd I think if I accelerate at a higher rpm the bike will buck or jerk then take off as I'm riding but if I ride nice and com no ripping on it you wouldn't think anything is wrong do u have any idea what this is ??is it transmission but it only jerks in that one gear at higher rpm??
That sounds literally like the transmission slipping. I bought a project RF recently with faulty gearbox and it has identical symptoms. Usually (almost always actually) it's the 2nd gear that slips but if shift forks are worn this can happen in other gears too. To fix this you need to remove the engine and split it in half to get to the gearbox. Once you have the gearbox out you have three options: 1-replace worn cogs and shift forks , 2 -send the transmission to machine shop to have worn cogs undercut(and replace the shift forks), 3- buy another used transmission and hope it's good enough to last. I'll be rebuilding my bike's tranny this summer and will put a step by step video guide for everything on my channel so it might be useful to you. Regards
@@Adikxx thanks man that's what I figured I just wanted ur opinion first so long as I don't ripp on it to much it doesn't do it so I'll take it easy and do it this winter
@@user-gp3mz5dd1r Yep, bike can ridden no probs. Just be aware that whenever it slips it shreds gears and drops swarf into the oil pan so try to avoid the slip.
In this vid you'll see the early type(GSXR type) with snap ring and 2 diaphragm plates under the pressure plate. The later type has 5 bolts with springs on each bolt and no snap ring to mess around with. Later type = easy job. Older type= pain in the rectum(and urethra)
@@Adikxx only thing i miss form the drawings and ... all the videos... The order of the washers... (spacers) 1 is behind the basket... 1 between the basked and the inner "head" ... then depending on the verison some other washers...)
@@joea6296 i had one on Busa, SV1000 and Gixer 11 RF is pretty srable so no damper on it but i have one and think of putting it on for visual effect, we shall see
@@Adikxx yeah i see i think going to go for the same handle bar set up as your rf has , with in time tho.... i mean it would hurt putting one on as well , Cool cool thanks for the info, cheers. Appreciate it.
I love all the RF900 Videos thank you for sharing with us all 🙂
@@FatihSeydioglu such pleasure to read this. Thanks for watching ! 🤎
I love watching the gentleman at work thank u 👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Fantastic my good man .. I've now got my own little RF library of video's . Great stuff as usual 👍
Dylan it's an absolute pleasure to read this :)
Brilliant video thank u 👁️♥️👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍👍
Muito bom o vídeo, excelente moto!!!
hello good evening I saw that you put the super nice transparent crankcase cover I would like to put it too This clear crankcase cover for Suzuki RF900 R I'm looking but I can't find anything can you please tell me the link where to buy? or the compatible model of the suzuki that I have to take
Great video, looks straight forward. What's the size of the clutch spring holder? Looks 50+mm!!
yes 50mm
Cheers!
I bought a Barnett performance clutch that' has Kevlar friction plates now I heard bad things should I cancel or do u have any opinions on them
Barnett as a brand are superb. Not sure about kevlar plates as i personally never used them.
In my Suzuki clutch steel plates 5-6 plate is 2 millimeters thick while others are 1.6 millimeters
hej a ta duża nakrętka to na jaką nasadkę ? i masz fajną pokrywę sprzęgła szukałem czegoś takiego ale nie ma :), Wymieniałeś cały komplet metalowe i materiałowe podkładki ?
Hej, sorki nie za bardzo skumalem o jaka nakretke chodzi. Pokrywa sprzegla robiona zamowienie w UK, gosc jest w stanie wstawic okno prawie do kazdej pokrywy. £175 plus wysylka. Wymienilem tylko tarcze cierne. Buziaki !
@@Adikxx chodzi mi o tą dużą co przykręcałeś 100NM na jaką nasadkę ?
@@krispoland4452 hmm kurde nie pamietam dokladnie hehe ale to na 90% bylo 1/2"
@@Adikxx siema sorki że tak męczę przemierzam się do wymiany łańcucha rozrządu w RF ce i mam pytanko czy ślizgi też wymieniać odrazu na nowe ? czy w zależności od zużycia? gdyż nie wiem na ile starczą jak się ich nie wymieni. No i co z napinaczem czy one są awaryjne ?
@@krispoland4452 Siema, nie ma problemu wal smialo o kazdej porze. Moja miala zmienione lancuszek oraz napinacz w 2016 roku. Ja slizgi zostawilem bo wygladaly bardzo dobrze wiec ja bym powiedzial, ze mozesz je zostawic. Jestem prawie pewien, ze jak bys porownal nowy slizg i swoj to roznica bedzie znikoma(no chyba ze masz ponad 100 tys km najechane:)
KONIECZNIE wymien napinacz i nie daj sie skusic na manualny napinacz bo to jest proszenie sie o katastrofe. Kup nowy napinacz fabryczny Suzuki. Pytasz czy napinacze sa awaryjne, powiem tak - nie sa awaryjne (bynajmniej te od Suzuki z lat 90, Honda to inna bajka:) tylko sie zwyczajnie zyzywaja. Tam jest w srodku sprezyna, ktora musi coraz bardziej wysuwac bolec napinacza zeby on mogl utrzymywac wymagane napiecie rozciagajacego sie z czasem a wlasciwie przebiegiem lancucha. Im luzniejszy lancuch tym bardziej bolec napinajacy musi byc wysyniety zeby go napiac. Im bardziej wysuniety jest bolec napinacza tym mniej sprezyna jest w stanie oprzec sie "biciu" lancucha(prosta sprawa- scisnieta sprezyna stawia wiekszy opor niz sprezyna rozciagnieta w pelni) . W pozniejszej fazie bolec napinacza moze nawet zaczac pulsowac pod wplywem slabej sprezyny nie tylko w przod i tyl ale i nawet w gore i w dol(o jakies 1 moze 2mm) co daje charaktyrystyczne metaliczne stuki z silnika.
Sorry za te wywody :) Pewnie itak wiesz jak jest, ale jak pytasz to rzucam moje 3 grosze. Lancuch D.I.D. i napinacz Suzuki.
👍👍👍👍
Hey so there isn't clutch springs behind the assembly? Like if you were to remove the nut and pull the basket out?
This type of clutch uses so called "diaphragm springs". It's those 2 cup shaped washers behind the big nut. Standard clutch springs are not present in this model of clutch.
@@Adikxx understood that's what I thought just wanted to be certain. Have had a hell of a time with this clutch... Finally replacing everything.
@@Adikxx So I finally got the correct clutch kit, however it didn't include the one smaller friction disk at the very back of the basket where the 2 small washers sit. Should I replace this disc and the small washer with a regular friction disk? I'm just so confused and want to get this right and not take it back apart. This is the only bike with this Clutch besides the GSXR-1100W model from earlier.
I've been trying to help a friend diagnose a dragging clutch on his R plate RF 900 after it had new gearbox fitted. Would this setup be the same as the R plate? I've recently rebuilt the slave cylinder and bled it a few times. There was no clutch drag before the gearbox was fitted so have questioned if the clutch has been over tightened when the gears were done but we've not had the weather to look at the clutch until recently, but also know I do not have a 50mm socket (yet)
From what i gather "R" plate in the UK is 1997 year? 1997 clutch in RF900 is a different type of clutch without diaphragm springs and 50mm nut is NOT needed to take it all apart. Funny enough i've just finished another RF900 project which was nearly full engine rebuild with installation of 6 speed transmission. In the first episode of that series i did complete clutch disassembly so you might find it useful in your situation. Link to the 1st episode of that of engine rebuild with clutch work below: th-cam.com/video/cvxci5J-qic/w-d-xo.html
@@Adikxx thank you!! It is a 97, when it was sent off for the gearbox issue, a clutch was sent with it but the guy that originally done it said it was the wrong clutch which we have also questioned a few times but will give the video a watch at some point today and subscribe as I can't seem to find much about the rf900 and also being a car mechanic and not worked with bikes in about 20 years, I'm forever looking for things to help a friend out before he ends up scraping the bike
@@phileames1983 You'll get it sorted, matter of time. I have TONNES of RF900 maintenance and mods vids on my channel: carbs rebuild, jetting, exhaust mods,clutch rebuilds,performance cams installation and more. Even built 1100cc RF engine using GSXR 1100 bottom end :) It's a wonderful and underrated bike so make sure your friend doesn't get rid of it :) As a car mechanic with official service manual in your hand working on RF will be a joy.
@@Adikxx just watched the 1st video! The clutch is the same as his zzr 600 which I recently changed so checking the clutch will be easy! I know he's at the stage of put so much money into the bike that it's now got to the stage of he wants to get rid of it but I keep telling him not to as there's something that tells me it's a some fix but it's finding what been done by the previous guy which has caused the drag to come in as it originally left with the 2nd gear gone and no other issues, come back with clutch drag, can't find neutral unless the engine is off , struggle to go through gears but that turned out to be minor adjustment of the gear lever after doing the slave cylinder yesterday but I'll forward the link to the video to him now and hopefully he'll agree to letting me pull the clutch... His main issue at the moment is putting more money into it and possibly not getting rid of the drag but your vid has definitely been the best to watch so far!
@@phileames1983 i'd suggest checking a few things. 1st check if he has correct clutch pushrod in his slave cylinder. There were 2 types differing in length!
Next check if all friction plates and steels plates are in correct order as there are 2 steel plates on the middle of the pack which are thicker than others!
Also check if he has those 2 large rings(washers) deep in the clutch basket. One is flat and other one is "cup shaped" and needs to be installed right way round. Finally and maybe most importantly-has he got the transmission from the same year RF? Output shafts of early and late transmissions are slightly different lengths and the clutch basket with all plates mounts on it so if it's the wrong one..it might cause issues with engaging/disengaging of the clutch(maybe?)
From my experience though check if installing steel plates the other way round clears the issue. I had a bike where clutch was dragging and changing gears was very hard, i flipped all steels the other way round and problem literally went away! Might be woth trying this too.
Hope this helps.
what size head did you use to unscrew the big nut?
50mm socket
Hi is it realy that hard to Come by these clutchplates cause my rf 900 is at the shop but they cant seem to find the right ones
So if you have any sugestions on were to order them i would realy apriciate it
There is no problem with getting them(at least in the UK)
You could get plates from Fowlers parts, Robinsons Foundry, or even Ebay. Just be careful when ordering as 94 model has different clutch basket than later models.
@@Adikxx got the 96 model
It’s a 50mm nut that holds the clutch in, correct?
Yes
Sorry to bother you aging is there any way you could show me or send me a pic or link of the clutch basket holding tool you used cause here in the states I keep coming across the type that says it's recommended for the other style clutch..
Link below: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/125558788698?itmmeta=01HV93T057GZ9YMJ9SPTE2DECJ&hash=item1d3be3125a:g:KMIAAOxy02dRgMm9&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAA8K8wstu0uGtBGcwfh5Q%2FzNJPzu5KQdwl0uigoKyo9v6Z5STbrld8Ly5d0ltGIVwxLr8o6j7vilGHT4MszqfBijUg0uLn1hkqR%2BMNQ3%2FvwUFQNU4wCoYYezaF7wH0B6f9duGC3slA32hh0Cm%2B%2BkszhlCTMw6a5jSUUENxuCvA%2BZbeqFTiiCQYIs1aQh80a9w%2FX6T%2BFMBJmxivWj4wf%2BevlsQQbR9f7qLKe9hwYDcuyBy6UZv47ff8g2q876%2B8YYvwhsLFkBYvOan9bFnHsZyP2y9emJgk93%2FR%2BBru2raga9rlK0Irjg%2BoqaPoct6ftL5cNg%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABFBM2ILoo9pj
Can you swap the newer 5 bolt style onto the 94 model or can I use a rf600 clutch work and convert to cable clutch .@@Adikxx
@@travisdykes9135 you could use the newer 5 bolt basket on earlier bikes but you need an additional washer begind the basket due to longer transmission shaft in the earlier bikes. Not sure if earlier basket could be used on later bikes.
Cable actuated system is inferior so you wouldn't want that on RF900. Not sure if 600 clutch cover fits 900 crankcases.
I installed brand new clutch plates but it still keeps slipping. Soaked it in oil and measured the plates. Unfortunately i didn't have any plates with white marks so i think that is where the problem lies. It's the 3rd time now that i disassembled my clutch and i don't really want to do it a 4th time. Do you have any idea what i'm doing wrong?
1st question. What type of clutch do you have? The one with big 50mm nut holding the pressure plate? Or the one with classic 5 springs in the pressure plate?
@@Adikxx the 94 model like in the video
@@KevinvN96 ok so here is what comes to mind:
1- did you replace the friction plates, steel plates and 2 diaphragm plates also? Ideally all those components should be replaced. It's recommended to use EBC harder diaohragm plates. That can help.
2- did you use quality parts? Cheap Ebay knock offs are known to be shit. Friction plates for example are slightly thinner which which means the whole pack of plates will be slimmer. This means that diaphragm springs will have harder job clamping the pack which in return means slipping of clutch.
3-friction plates should be soaked in oil for a few hours before installation
4-clutch slave cylinder can cause problems. Make sure that it operates faultlessly. If the spring inside it doesn't fully push the piston away your clutch will not be fully "released" which will lead to slipping. That spring must be strong and cylinder's surface should be smooth so the seal can freely slide on it without catching.
5.Did you torque up the pressure plate to correct torque?
6.Do you have the 2 large washers there ? One flat and other concave. Flat one first and concave one after pointing towards the engine.
7. Correct oil for wet clutch?
@@Adikxx 1. Yes I did replace the all the plates and the diaphragm plates. They are not ECB plates but they're genuine OEM parts
2. All OEM parts I've ordered
3. Yes I've soaked the plates for at least a day in oil
4. I redid the slave cylinder last year since I thought that was the root of the problem at first and I replaced the rubber and spring in there
5. I don't have a torque wrench for this kind of nut because it's too big so I just tightened it as hard as I could. It's also a bitch to keep the nut on the bolt because it likes to slip off.
6. they're still in there, I didn't touch those washers
7. Yes I do
@@KevinvN96 hmm that's damn weird to be honest as you did everything correctly.
Check the thickness of steel plates , i think there should be 7 × 1.6mm plates and 2 x2mm plates. You can buy 2.5mm plates on Ebay to thicken the pack if needed.
Finally i think it's beneficial to go for EBC harder diaphragm plates as they provide extra 15-20 % clamp. They're cheap on Ebay(maybe 15-20euros)
It won't harm to properly bleed the clucth system.
I hope you get it sorted. Shame we don't live closely, if we did i would remove my clutch basket and sent it to you for a test. If bike worked fine on mine we would know something is not right on yours. Sadly we're far away.. :(
Is this a 94 adikxx my rf900r is a 94 and I'm thinking imma have to do the clutch the bike had sat for 10 years + and went to ride it and it's slipping so bad I cannot ride it I rebuilt the slave cylinder all that so don't think it's it
Yes this video shows early models clutch (94 bikes).
I have later models clutch work shown in other video.
Ok thanks man I'm curious if it's my clutch or the clutch master cylinder relief what the bike does it takes off but then spins bad then catches all the sudden lol I rebuilt my slave cylinder(thanks for that video lol)
@@jmillzthepimp27 Are you sure it;s the clutch not gearbox?
So I put brand new clutch and drive plates and at random when riding and when I'm in 3rd I think if I accelerate at a higher rpm the bike will buck or jerk then take off as I'm riding but if I ride nice and com no ripping on it you wouldn't think anything is wrong do u have any idea what this is ??is it transmission but it only jerks in that one gear at higher rpm??
That sounds literally like the transmission slipping. I bought a project RF recently with faulty gearbox and it has identical symptoms. Usually (almost always actually) it's the 2nd gear that slips but if shift forks are worn this can happen in other gears too. To fix this you need to remove the engine and split it in half to get to the gearbox. Once you have the gearbox out you have three options: 1-replace worn cogs and shift forks , 2 -send the transmission to machine shop to have worn cogs undercut(and replace the shift forks), 3- buy another used transmission and hope it's good enough to last. I'll be rebuilding my bike's tranny this summer and will put a step by step video guide for everything on my channel so it might be useful to you. Regards
@@Adikxx thanks man that's what I figured I just wanted ur opinion first so long as I don't ripp on it to much it doesn't do it so I'll take it easy and do it this winter
@@user-gp3mz5dd1r Yep, bike can ridden no probs. Just be aware that whenever it slips it shreds gears and drops swarf into the oil pan so try to avoid the slip.
Ok I guess I'll getter fixed up ASAP hopefully I'll be able to follow the video u plan to make that would be great.
@@Adikxx I have the 6 speed transmission and forks how much of top end is sacrificed for using that transmission
is this the older one ? i have a 1995 RF900 and the plate has 5 bolts with the springs on them.....
In this vid you'll see the early type(GSXR type) with snap ring and 2 diaphragm plates under the pressure plate. The later type has 5 bolts with springs on each bolt and no snap ring to mess around with. Later type = easy job. Older type= pain in the rectum(and urethra)
@@Adikxx only thing i miss form the drawings and ... all the videos... The order of the washers... (spacers) 1 is behind the basket... 1 between the basked and the inner "head" ... then depending on the verison some other washers...)
@@Adikxx 2 washers are the same thickness so will not do any error in positioning but.... the OD is different and one of those has a "sloped" edge....
@@mrAq_pA hang on i'm confused. So ur clutch is the older type? Same as the onenin the video? Or the diferent type?
@@Adikxx i have the 5 bolt type
Does the 94' model have the same clutch procedure as the 1996 rf900 r model? Thanks
No. 1994 uses different clutch. 1996 models is a lot easier to deal with.
@@Adikxx alright yeah thats good to hear thanks bro man those bikes are soo quick thanks again stay safe man ,cheers
@@Adikxx do you run steering dampers on any of your bikes ?
@@joea6296 i had one on Busa, SV1000 and Gixer 11
RF is pretty srable so no damper on it but i have one and think of putting it on for visual effect, we shall see
@@Adikxx yeah i see i think going to go for the same handle bar set up as your rf has , with in time tho.... i mean it would hurt putting one on as well ,
Cool cool thanks for the info, cheers. Appreciate it.
Where do you buy parts for your rf900? 👍
www.robinsonsfoundry.co.uk/shop/online-store/suzuki-parts-finder/rf/rf900r/r-s-t-v-w-1994-1998.htm?vehicle_id=97
www.fowlersparts.co.uk/browser/manufacturer/suzuki/bike/rf900/year/1994-1998/colour/all-colours
What size is the nut mate ?.
The big one is 50mm
Hello, can you translate your videos of God's Arabic videos? Thank you. We are following you