Hey man, been watching you for a year or so now and thanks to you I just managed to take a fully dull knife to razor sharp for the first time. Thanks for your work!
I owe a big thank you to you Ryky! I have a Chicago Cutlery chef knife that my wife and I got for our wedding. We were young and lazy and tossed all of our knives in the dishwasher. The chef knife has rusted and chipped, so watching this video inspired me to invest in some whetstones. I also have been using a Dalstrong Phantom Filet knife that I don’t have sharpening tools for. Hoping I can get those knives better than they were before! Again thank you for these videos! They’ve been a big help in prepping!
Really nice job on that knife... reminds me of when I spent an hour removing deep chips out of my sister's knife. Was complete trash at first but then ended up being near perfect. Thanks for the video...
Thank you for doing these full knife restoration, full length videos. I've watched three of them so far, and watching how you continually change the bevel angles throughout the first part of the process has given me more confidence to reprofile the bevel on my practice knife. Unfortunately, the lowest grit I have ATM is a #1000 Suehiro Cerax, when a #320 Suehiro Cerax would likely be ideal for the VG10. Never the less I'll be attempting to go from about 20 degrees, down to around 15 degrees on the #1000.
If you don't require larger grit sizes (lower number stones), which few of us do as they serve mostly for reprofile and restoration work, then consider sandpaper for those grits. .
Great video to watch on a Sunday morning! As everyone else is asking; where did you get that knife from? You did a great job and it looks amazing. You should be proud to keep that in your collection.
Ricky, thanks for showing us the steps of the restoration. Question: what was in the white Nalgene bottle, water or mineral oil? I only saw you add a few drops to the Atoma 140.
Because I only used a couple of drops I believe he was using mineral oil however since it was a kitchen knife I suggest olive oil. I believe he was using oil because it doesn't take that much oil and you don't have to constantly be wedding the stone also he was not using stone he was using diamond plate. A whetstone is only a whetstone until it gets oil on it thin it is an oil stone regardless what it was. I have a collection of furnish bricks that were waterstone's until somebody got too much bacon fat on them. I'll have to cook the grease out of them completely and then we face them completely.
saw your video two days ago, at home i went down to my bike shed, where al my sport stuf is, My iceskate sharpening gear also. Got the Wetstone my father used 40 years ago, and took a knife that used to be real sharp, like long ago. Lots of dents in there. I even fell once on my bare foot. blood shot out, but the cut was real clean. I was thinking on letting it sharpend till i saw your video. It's real schap again, paper no problem, but i will put some more time in the movement. thx!!
great video! THANKS I also like the idea of posting both a short video to give people the general idea and a long video so people can learn more in depth. If only long videos, we can't watch during parts of our busy lives unless we schedule in the time. this way we can plan. OR if only short videos we miss some of the in depth analysis and explanations and seeing minor adjustments you make along the way as you react to what's happening in real time.
Hi Ryky, I like the new look of the old knife. The rustic Nashiji finish is cool. Good video to encourage people to repair their knifes, if something went wrong.
I confess; this knife I would clean up the edge and tip with my T-7 Tormek with diamond wheel, and then reset the bevel by hand. I can control the T-7 to advance into the wheel by less than a mm each step, and I would freehand the tip on the wheel. It would leave me with a flat edge, but stoning the bevel would be fairly easy.
Beautiful Job Ryky restoring the knife to better than original condition! Really love the new Sabatier style you put on it. Question do you still have it!
I recommend using Evaporust to remove rust. It's a non toxic solution that doesn't require any abrasion to work, therefore no scratches on the part. Those erasers look like they work very well though.
Thanks Ryky, great instructional video So how how long did it take all told Was it just 40 minutes or so. And thanks my knife arrived yesterday So in love with it
Splendid knife, and excellent commitment for his rescue. I am extremely picky and would have taken off the handle: sometimes the rust continues to expand until it is cracked. I hope that those who use this craft in the future will have more attention and care than the previous owner. Thanks again for the religious care of this work of art.
Hey Ryky! Thanks for the video, it's amazing to see this. I'd love to try it out myself but I don't know where to get cheap knives to restore. Do you have any good source that's accessible in europe?
This is so great, was waiting for the complete video. Waiting for my flight home from Chicago and watching. ^_^ Lol, I was rambling on a bit to mum about knife stuff I've learned from here.
Hi Ryky You do some outstanding work. Where do you get the broken, damaged and returned knives from? I am wanting to try my hand a restoration and/or repair. Thanks
Beautifully done Ricky, now i see how to use those erasers. Even thought this video of yours is 2 years old, i bought those erasers the moment you advertised them in your channel and have had them for a long time. Now i know how to properly use them after watching this video of yours. Thanks a lot also Ricky for showing how you restore a broken knife with those diamond plates. What grit do you recommend i use in order to remove a deep chip in a knife i was trying to fix. I managed to bring it down but it still needs work and i think s diamond plate is more suitable for the job. I have a 400/1000 grit diamond plate I've been using to remove chips. By the way Ricky what fluid are you using on the plate?
i use the Atoma 140 store.burrfection.com/collections/accessories/products/atoma-diamond-sharpener?variant=31877635407968, 400 grit is too fine for chip removal, or it would take too long
Cant wait to see you do the handle work. My fave knife is a Tojiro even though I got some nice Dalstrong and Enso ones. But I always find myself going back to my Tojiro Santoku knife :)
Is that just the white #2 series? Not surprising. You could get it to look like that in a rainy weekend. It's also super easy to work with. I totally reprofiled one into a pretty darn nice knife.
Looks great, Ryky! Question(s): a) Did you consider shaving down from the spine rather than up from the edge, and b) would you ever use a file rather than a stone in the early going?
Burrfection: Sure, you'd want to blend the curve of the spine gradually, probably starting back about as far as you did on the edge. I just think this would change the edge profile less.
Remove from the spine is the less time consuming. 1. There's almost only soft steel 2. Don't have to thin the edge and reprofile the hard steel 3. The kuro uchi finish i more or less removed and won't be noticed.
i'm not an expert, and i when i was looking at the work needed, and considering the missing tip, and the multiple chips running along the entire edge, it made more sense to grind down the cutting edge.
Nice - Adding - I'm surprised you didn't use a buffing wheel (mounted) and some polishing compound to put a polish on the blade. For those who dislike scratches on their beautiful knives just a minute each side and the blade looks new. But you must know about this from visiting knife makers?
Just restored a very very old natural sharpening stone my grandfather had on his workbench. Some research shows it’s from the 1930’s or before it was in bad shape. Probably weighs 4lbs. Atoma 140 did the job eventually to make it usable on all sides but man it was a lot of work. Stone is super hard but not terribly slow and it’s really quite fine. Don’t know grit wise but 800 at least.
I'd take this knife to my lubricated grinding wheel to remove the chips and restore the tip. Then, I'd take it to my atoma 140 to start putting an edge profile on it. Grinding wheels are a lot cheaper than diamond stones, and they work very well for removing metal quickly. The key is to go steadily and not to heat up the steel, which damages the temper and hardness of the knife.
Hi there. Just wondering if you ever came across a knife brand called Sabun. Haven’t seen any reviews about the knife either. Would be nice if you can do a review.
Hi RIcky question what is the steel on that knife is it white or blue carbon steel and is the atoma better than DMT Diamond course plate .Regards Dean from Oz
I saw a video long time ago on handles someone gave you, did you ever use them? Also I am curious on your sharpening technique. While back you use to wipe off the slurry off the stones. This video showing you keep the slurry on the stones while sharpening, Is there a reason for this ?
I think you should have ground the spine to fix the tip, going to a santoku like shape. Would have made more sense and would have kept the knife slimmer behind the edge.
Hi Ryky. Love your channel bud. I’ve learned a lot from you and have really honed my technique at sharpening with my 2 Choseras. My friends and family love me😄. I like the black basin you are using here to contain the mess. Can ya tell me where I can get one. Thanks. Tony
Sigh....I have been trying to sharpen knifes now for a while and I cant say its a total success. I do manage to get them fairly sharp but its nowhere near razor sharp.....what am I doing wrong? I try to follow all your guides as good as I can but I guess I am having problems maintaining the exact same angle when switching stones or something.....
I think I need to re-profile the old sushi knife I mentioned to you earlier in your other video. It has a blunt tip, not really pointed, but I'm thinking, I might just waist away the steel that I could've use for the next 3 years of using and sharpening that knife.
You've got small/medium hands like me - how can you use the wa handle? I just can't seem to get a good pinch grip going on a wa handle, with no taper on the bolster like western handles. I've actually got a BEAUTIFUL Sakai Takayuki that I am probably going to sell, just because the wa handle is too thick/wide for me. I've also considered thinning the bolster, but I don't want to screw up the knife, lol.
Looking for some guidance ! I need a stone for finishing my straight razor do you have recommendations I have a 6000 but need to go higher to get that high polish to cut hair instead of plucking hair! Lol
I have a 12k, that wasn't enough for me to finish a single shave with. Instead I have gone to PSA Lapping film in 1 micron and 0.3 micron. Only use edge trailing on the film and it should last. The film I mounted on some marble tiles that I flattened with diamond stones, but many use a piece of glass for a shelf.
Just wondering how long you would expect that Atoma stone to last when removing this much material? Is there a possibility of some of the diamonds being ripped off the metal surface that they're bonded to, or is the stone made with this kind of use in mind? Thanks.
i've done..... well over a dozen knives in this condition and the atoma plate is still going strong. i've owned it now for 2 years. i 'm guessing.... 100 knives? i've never noticed any diamonds missing on the plate, so as long as you aren't trying to damage the plate and not forcing or rushing, i don't think that's a problem.
@@Burrfection that is good to know. I will put one of those on my shopping list. I used to have a couple of the large double sided DMT stones, the ones that have the relief holes in the diamond surface, and they didn't seem to hold up all that well, especially in the finer grits. Sounds like the Atoma is much longer lasting. Thanks for the reply.
I’m a bit puzzled as to why you removed metal from the edge side of the blade when reprofiling the broken tip. Why didn’t you reshape the back instead? That would’ve left the cutting edge of the knife with the same profile and the thickness behind the edge consistent.
you can do it any way that works. i do that to help the cutting edge stay relatively "thin" narrow so it's less work to do it later. since i'm removing chips, it brings the cutting edge closer to the spine, and the blade generally thickens as you move that way, so i remove a bit of material to make thinning easier in the long-run
@@Burrfection Skipping ahead and/or playing the video in fast forward where appropriate. Showing a little of each step, while sharing the relevant information, before moving on to the next step. Maybe some people genuinely enjoy watching someone sharpen a knife for 35 minutes, but most of us only need a 5-10 minute condensed version. Skipping ahead on my own doesn't work because I never know when you are going to say something relevant. Perhaps you could upload two versions of video where this is needed. You would probably even pull in some extra views if people like me initially find the longer version then notice the condensed version in the side column and switch to it.
@@pjo1964 Of course.. The video is just rust removal in my opinion, that "broken" tip is unnecessary to "fix" for my kitchen work. My Gyuto was dropped from table height and snaped/chipped on the tip about 5mm, I haven't fix it till now haha. No single effect on it cutting performance
Hey man, been watching you for a year or so now and thanks to you I just managed to take a fully dull knife to razor sharp for the first time. Thanks for your work!
I owe a big thank you to you Ryky! I have a Chicago Cutlery chef knife that my wife and I got for our wedding. We were young and lazy and tossed all of our knives in the dishwasher. The chef knife has rusted and chipped, so watching this video inspired me to invest in some whetstones. I also have been using a Dalstrong Phantom Filet knife that I don’t have sharpening tools for. Hoping I can get those knives better than they were before! Again thank you for these videos! They’ve been a big help in prepping!
Really nice job on that knife... reminds me of when I spent an hour removing deep chips out of my sister's knife. Was complete trash at first but then ended up being near perfect. Thanks for the video...
Thank you for doing these full knife restoration, full length videos. I've watched three of them so far, and watching how you continually change the bevel angles throughout the first part of the process has given me more confidence to reprofile the bevel on my practice knife. Unfortunately, the lowest grit I have ATM is a #1000 Suehiro Cerax, when a #320 Suehiro Cerax would likely be ideal for the VG10. Never the less I'll be attempting to go from about 20 degrees, down to around 15 degrees on the #1000.
If you don't require larger grit sizes (lower number stones), which few of us do as they serve mostly for reprofile and restoration work, then consider sandpaper for those grits. .
Great video to watch on a Sunday morning! As everyone else is asking; where did you get that knife from? You did a great job and it looks amazing. You should be proud to keep that in your collection.
I agree if that's the 1st time hes reshaped to blade. Then again I'm a knife maker so you can only keep so many then you have to sell them.
These restorations are by far my fav videos of yours! Would love more if you have the time/interest!
Awesome restoration. I’m glad you posted both videos. Enjoyed them both! :)
Ricky, thanks for showing us the steps of the restoration. Question: what was in the white Nalgene bottle, water or mineral oil? I only saw you add a few drops to the Atoma 140.
Because I only used a couple of drops I believe he was using mineral oil however since it was a kitchen knife I suggest olive oil. I believe he was using oil because it doesn't take that much oil and you don't have to constantly be wedding the stone also he was not using stone he was using diamond plate. A whetstone is only a whetstone until it gets oil on it thin it is an oil stone regardless what it was. I have a collection of furnish bricks that were waterstone's until somebody got too much bacon fat on them. I'll have to cook the grease out of them completely and then we face them completely.
*Long videos--are the best way to go!* *Those who prefer short--can fast forward.*
I love that you make Short and long videos separated. Keep up the good work
Thank you for the quick response to upload requests!
Fantastic work as always Ryky!
Just a heads up, audio cuts out from 20:50-21:05.
No big deal, just thought you should know
Oh Man, so sad to see such a beautiful knife mistreated like this.
I would love to get a knife like this to repair then cherish.
Indeed we do cherish beautiful neglected works of art that we restore with care.
saw your video two days ago, at home i went down to my bike shed, where al my sport stuf is, My iceskate sharpening gear also. Got the Wetstone my father used 40 years ago, and took a knife that used to be real sharp, like long ago. Lots of dents in there. I even fell once on my bare foot. blood shot out, but the cut was real clean. I was thinking on letting it sharpend till i saw your video.
It's real schap again, paper no problem, but i will put some more time in the movement. thx!!
great video!
THANKS
I also like the idea of posting both a short video to give people the general idea and a long video so people can learn more in depth.
If only long videos, we can't watch during parts of our busy lives unless we schedule in the time. this way we can plan.
OR if only short videos we miss some of the in depth analysis and explanations and seeing minor adjustments you make along the way as you react to what's happening in real time.
Bummer that you had to destroy the Kuro Ichi finish but it's a perfect restoration other than that. Great job, Ryky.
Nice job Ricky !
Hi Ryky, I like the new look of the old knife. The rustic Nashiji finish is cool. Good video to encourage people to repair their knifes, if something went wrong.
yup. you don't have to do a lot
Fantastic job. Really enjoyed this & your great workmanship & knowledge. Might have to get a set of those erasers.
I was on the fence of getting a tojiro santoku. This vid make me jump the fence and get it
Great great work! I also hate making old knives completely new. It just kills them.
I confess; this knife I would clean up the edge and tip with my T-7 Tormek with diamond wheel, and then reset the bevel by hand. I can control the T-7 to advance into the wheel by less than a mm each step, and I would freehand the tip on the wheel. It would leave me with a flat edge, but stoning the bevel would be fairly easy.
Beautiful Job Ryky restoring the knife to better than original condition! Really love the new Sabatier style you put on it. Question do you still have it!
I recommend using Evaporust to remove rust. It's a non toxic solution that doesn't require any abrasion to work, therefore no scratches on the part. Those erasers look like they work very well though.
Thanks Ryky, great instructional video
So how how long did it take all told
Was it just 40 minutes or so.
And thanks my knife arrived yesterday
So in love with it
Splendid knife, and excellent commitment for his rescue.
I am extremely picky and would have taken off the handle: sometimes the rust continues to expand until it is cracked.
I hope that those who use this craft in the future will have more attention and care than the previous owner.
Thanks again for the religious care of this work of art.
Hey Ryky! Thanks for the video, it's amazing to see this. I'd love to try it out myself but I don't know where to get cheap knives to restore. Do you have any good source that's accessible in europe?
Ryky vs. Onion.. Nice finish to this video, that noise you make says it all.
This is so great, was waiting for the complete video. Waiting for my flight home from Chicago and watching. ^_^ Lol, I was rambling on a bit to mum about knife stuff I've learned from here.
Very nice job Ryky
Hi Ryky
You do some outstanding work. Where do you get the broken, damaged and returned knives from? I am wanting to try my hand a restoration and/or repair.
Thanks
He works for a company named "Cutlery and More", and gets the rejects from them.
Amazing difference - looks great!!
Beautifully done Ricky, now i see how to use those erasers. Even thought this video of yours is 2 years old, i bought those erasers the moment you advertised them in your channel and have had them for a long time. Now i know how to properly use them after watching this video of yours. Thanks a lot also Ricky for showing how you restore a broken knife with those diamond plates. What grit do you recommend i use in order to remove a deep chip in a knife i was trying to fix. I managed to bring it down but it still needs work and i think s diamond plate is more suitable for the job. I have a 400/1000 grit diamond plate I've been using to remove chips. By the way Ricky what fluid are you using on the plate?
i use the Atoma 140 store.burrfection.com/collections/accessories/products/atoma-diamond-sharpener?variant=31877635407968,
400 grit is too fine for chip removal, or it would take too long
@@Burrfection How would your approach change if this was a single edge grind?
Cant wait to see you do the handle work. My fave knife is a Tojiro even though I got some nice Dalstrong and Enso ones. But I always find myself going back to my Tojiro Santoku knife :)
love the work how do you come across these rusty and damaged kitchen knives do people send them to you
Is that just the white #2 series? Not surprising. You could get it to look like that in a rainy weekend. It's also super easy to work with. I totally reprofiled one into a pretty darn nice knife.
Looks great, Ryky! Question(s): a) Did you consider shaving down from the spine rather than up from the edge, and b) would you ever use a file rather than a stone in the early going?
you could, but the drop of the spine at the tip could have looked too..... exaggerated.
Burrfection: Sure, you'd want to blend the curve of the spine gradually, probably starting back about as far as you did on the edge. I just think this would change the edge profile less.
Burrfection: How about using a file?
Remove from the spine is the less time consuming.
1. There's almost only soft steel
2. Don't have to thin the edge and reprofile the hard steel
3. The kuro uchi finish i more or less removed and won't be noticed.
i'm not an expert, and i when i was looking at the work needed, and considering the missing tip, and the multiple chips running along the entire edge, it made more sense to grind down the cutting edge.
Sweet video. Your audio is really good as well. Maybe you should do a few videos on what you're using for Youtubing.
Yes! Thanks for uploading 👍🏽
i realy love your video channel i hope in the future you will give me some of your old knife like you video restoration one of your fan 😍😍😍😍😍
Great work brother
I see a emerging market for these rusty knives )
What kind stone you like to use for mirror finishing? I got some knife with rust that need to be clean
You must be planning something special for April Fools Day also, Sharpening.com folks are good at humor, but you’re the best.
He can do a video about how a dollar store knife beat a $300 knife 😂
What is the box that you are sharpening in? That looks like a good way to keep things clean if you do not have a sink or a stone pond.
He makes those trays and sells them in his website.
AWESOME JOB.
Wonderful video. I was wondering if you got a change to try Wusthof new Epicure line and whether or not you will do a review on them.
Awsome video thanks to this j was able to restore the tip on my knife to almost perfect thank you
Looks good mate 😊
love it, but what do you do with the restored knives?
Riki, you should get a 2x72" belt grinder to do repairs with.
M P work sharp is better and smaller
Nice - Adding - I'm surprised you didn't use a buffing wheel (mounted) and some polishing compound to put a polish on the blade. For those who dislike scratches on their beautiful knives just a minute each side and the blade looks new. But you must know about this from visiting knife makers?
Just restored a very very old natural sharpening stone my grandfather had on his workbench. Some research shows it’s from the 1930’s or before it was in bad shape. Probably weighs 4lbs. Atoma 140 did the job eventually to make it usable on all sides but man it was a lot of work. Stone is super hard but not terribly slow and it’s really quite fine. Don’t know grit wise but 800 at least.
Where do you buy vintage knives/ knifes for restoring??
Nice work! But you'll want to do the tang inside the handle as well. Looks like the rust has spread into it.
Is there a link for the knife handle replacements? Or where I might be able to find damaged knives to learn to repair with?
I think I read that tojiro handles are replaceable in japan but are glued for overseas sales. I guess they replace handles more frequently.
I'd take this knife to my lubricated grinding wheel to remove the chips and restore the tip. Then, I'd take it to my atoma 140 to start putting an edge profile on it. Grinding wheels are a lot cheaper than diamond stones, and they work very well for removing metal quickly. The key is to go steadily and not to heat up the steel, which damages the temper and hardness of the knife.
Hi there. Just wondering if you ever came across a knife brand called Sabun. Haven’t seen any reviews about the knife either. Would be nice if you can do a review.
Hi RIcky question what is the steel on that knife is it white or blue carbon steel and is the atoma better than DMT Diamond course plate .Regards Dean from Oz
I saw a video long time ago on handles someone gave you, did you ever use them? Also I am curious on your sharpening technique. While back you use to wipe off the slurry off the stones. This video showing you keep the slurry on the stones while sharpening, Is there a reason for this ?
V.good job
Thank you! Cheers!
How would you say that Tojiro knives compare to Shun? And do you know what sort of Rockwell they’re rated at?
I have one to restore as well. Just ordered some erasers from you.
I think you should have ground the spine to fix the tip, going to a santoku like shape. Would have made more sense and would have kept the knife slimmer behind the edge.
Where do you get the rust erasers??!
I would have used totally different tooling for this whole process but the knife looks great.
always use what you have, and there is never one way of doing things.
Hi Ryky. Love your channel bud. I’ve learned a lot from you and have really honed my technique at sharpening with my 2 Choseras. My friends and family love me😄. I like the black basin you are using here to contain the mess. Can ya tell me where I can get one. Thanks.
Tony
i made my myself with a custom made carbon fiber plate and custom silicon moulding..... maybe i'll make some more
Wow! Impressive bud, you’re a handy guy😄 BTW, I grew up in Sac. Thanks for the vids.
I normally do any reprofiling with a belt or disk sander. After that I rebevel the knife with the belt, and finish the sahrpening with stones.
Awesome!
Interesting video. Would ove to get that knife
How is the handle in such good condition? Usually the handle is the first to go in japanese knives since its made from soft wood
Cool maybe do something with the waterjet channel they want to get into knife making
Sigh....I have been trying to sharpen knifes now for a while and I cant say its a total success. I do manage to get them fairly sharp but its nowhere near razor sharp.....what am I doing wrong? I try to follow all your guides as good as I can but I guess I am having problems maintaining the exact same angle when switching stones or something.....
Have you ever thought about using a file to remove material faster?
Lovely just really wnat to know where I could get those small rocks to clean the knife with I'm Satu in south africa
Try kitchensamurai dot coza, I got Naniwa rust erasers from there. Look under "water stones" category.
nice job
I love your videos and I have learned alot! but why not have some light music in between ? :D
If he played some light music it would ruin the ASMR!!! 😮
Is going to be a long time before I watched you sharpen another knife I'll bet you do pretty good on sushi blades
I am ok
I think I need to re-profile the old sushi knife I mentioned to you earlier in your other video. It has a blunt tip, not really pointed, but I'm thinking, I might just waist away the steel that I could've use for the next 3 years of using and sharpening that knife.
You know what I mean? As I sharpen the knife, it becomes smaller and smaller every year.
You've got small/medium hands like me - how can you use the wa handle? I just can't seem to get a good pinch grip going on a wa handle, with no taper on the bolster like western handles. I've actually got a BEAUTIFUL Sakai Takayuki that I am probably going to sell, just because the wa handle is too thick/wide for me. I've also considered thinning the bolster, but I don't want to screw up the knife, lol.
pinch grip?
Where do you get the knives from? Are they your own, or do you buy them on a market?
i would also like to know
Doubt it was his and got that bad, unless intentional. Ebay might be a place to check if you're looking.
@@baseballhunter42 thanks I'll look
He would never allow a knife to get rusted like that so you know he got it from somebody.
Was this knife single beveled?
Do you have an email where I can send you some info and questions?
It looks and sounds like a diamond plate. What is it? And whatever it is, what "grit" rating?
Looking for some guidance ! I need a stone for finishing my straight razor do you have recommendations
I have a 6000 but need to go higher to get that high polish to cut hair instead of plucking hair! Lol
I have a 12k, that wasn't enough for me to finish a single shave with. Instead I have gone to PSA Lapping film in 1 micron and 0.3 micron. Only use edge trailing on the film and it should last. The film I mounted on some marble tiles that I flattened with diamond stones, but many use a piece of glass for a shelf.
Also a strop is a real good idea
LOVE YOOOOOUUUUU!!!
Just wondering how long you would expect that Atoma stone to last when removing this much material? Is there a possibility of some of the diamonds being ripped off the metal surface that they're bonded to, or is the stone made with this kind of use in mind?
Thanks.
i've done..... well over a dozen knives in this condition and the atoma plate is still going strong. i've owned it now for 2 years. i 'm guessing.... 100 knives? i've never noticed any diamonds missing on the plate, so as long as you aren't trying to damage the plate and not forcing or rushing, i don't think that's a problem.
@@Burrfection that is good to know. I will put one of those on my shopping list. I used to have a couple of the large double sided DMT stones, the ones that have the relief holes in the diamond surface, and they didn't seem to hold up all that well, especially in the finer grits. Sounds like the Atoma is much longer lasting.
Thanks for the reply.
:D haha at the end he is also showing us how to 'dull' the knife too :D hahaha
I agree that blade is not going to cut well until it is thinned out.
How did you get those knives?
I’m a bit puzzled as to why you removed metal from the edge side of the blade when reprofiling the broken tip. Why didn’t you reshape the back instead? That would’ve left the cutting edge of the knife with the same profile and the thickness behind the edge consistent.
you can do it any way that works. i do that to help the cutting edge stay relatively "thin" narrow so it's less work to do it later. since i'm removing chips, it brings the cutting edge closer to the spine, and the blade generally thickens as you move that way, so i remove a bit of material to make thinning easier in the long-run
Hi Ricky why does vinegar kill the rust Regards Dean from oz
Agent 58 diluted vinegar is a weak acid, so it weakens the chemical bonds holding the rust particles to the clean steel underneath.
Anyone knows where to get knifes like these? Wanna try it by myself 😊
Secondhand stores, pawn shops and ebay
Therapeutic and relaxing to watch. Now to find me a rusty blade.
Where can I/we get knives that are beat up, rusted, chipped to practice restoration and sharpening?
David Detwiler I find local thrift shops have boxes of them.
What the proper name to buy the rust eraser please?
here you go burrfectionstore.com/collections/accessories/products/sabitoru-rust-eraser, the coarse one is what i use
What is the lenght of both knives?
Great video . . . but have you ever heard of time lapse?
What is that?
@@Burrfection Skipping ahead and/or playing the video in fast forward where appropriate. Showing a little of each step, while sharing the relevant information, before moving on to the next step.
Maybe some people genuinely enjoy watching someone sharpen a knife for 35 minutes, but most of us only need a 5-10 minute condensed version. Skipping ahead on my own doesn't work because I never know when you are going to say something relevant.
Perhaps you could upload two versions of video where this is needed. You would probably even pull in some extra views if people like me initially find the longer version then notice the condensed version in the side column and switch to it.
I think the video it's pretty much done at 4:18
Not even close. Must watch with patience and a desire to know.
Only your opinion. Everyone has a different interest and a different patience level and desire to watch.
@@pjo1964 Of course.. The video is just rust removal in my opinion, that "broken" tip is unnecessary to "fix" for my kitchen work.
My Gyuto was dropped from table height and snaped/chipped on the tip about 5mm, I haven't fix it till now haha. No single effect on it cutting performance
Did it come with a 70/30 bevel, or are you just giving it one? Or is the camera angle just screwing with me?