This is really basic stuff, I just did not know how many people knew that the SIR Rods have room for improvement here. Some of the rods are really bad on forging overhang, and blending them and shot peening them makes a big difference. Of course you have to balance the rotating assembly afterwards, which was going to happen anyway. Glad you like it.
Continued) That being said, all Eagle would do would be to send another rod, and be off the weight balance even MORE than they are (around 3 to 5 grams from one to the other in worst cases). That is why I do this procedure, since I am going to balance the rotating assembly anyway. The point where I would send the ROD back would be IF the parting line was deep going inside the Beam of the rod AFTER the grinding was done. Then I would worry. Remember this my friend, Eagle Cranks and Rods (Cont
I do not have a shotpeener and years ago looked around on the Island to find one. I like shot peening after grinding and polishing because it has an effect of compression and work hardening the surface to make it even stronger and more crack resistant.
YEP, however, the shot peening has to be a part of this deal. I still that even if you done have the shot peener, it has to help cause of the slag/spit out of the mold. Yea, my block guy said the same thing, I guess he is just mad because he has to more work to balance them out, and the lighter pins did not help any.....
These are a few of the tricks that help an engine go from a good engine to a great engine. After lightening, and balancing the throttle response will be snappy.
I tried that years ago, the problem is I want the intake ROUGH, and the stones let you feel the contours of the walls of the runner, letting you know there is now "STEPS" along the way, the flapper wheel will NOT let you feel the transfer to your hands, therefore giving you false wall texture as your blending. Thanks though for the thought....
Yea, you have NO IDEA how many times over the past 15 years I have had to deal with Eagle, mainly the dam crankshafts being to "FAT" on the high side of the clearance, and including bearings (standard) that if you installed them you would not have .0015 clearance. I have had to turn about 50% of the cranks AFTER buying them new in the box. Till the past few years and bearing manufactures figured out they can make money off the crank manufactures cutting the cranks to the big side. LOL.(Continued
WOW, I have not herd or seen any of this. I can say that I would be CAREFULL on buying these things till they have been out a while, look at there heads. It took about 8 years to get to where there at now, and that still leaves a little to be desired. You have to send them to someone like me IF you want them to work and make power, and be mechanical sound. Think it through fella,....
ONLY A DAMN FOOL WOULD DO THIS! HA HA! GOT YA! I do it too so you know we both have issues. According to Charles fayette Taylor a smooth polished finish is worth nearly a 40% increase in strength for forged steel. It takes me a full week to grind, debur, polish and balance a set of Chevy or Eagle or any other damn rod. After you deny the crack a starting point or a stress riser the fatigue life and strength of the rod goes up.
Continued) but you can believe me that I would not build an engine (small block) over 625 HP or BBC over 750 to 800 HP, they just wont take it for long, Eagle is for people who build medium performance street stuff. IF you want the real deal, then these names is what you should be looking into: Crower, BRC, Oliver, Carrillo, BME. These components are not even in the same league as this Eagle Crap, not even close. I hope this helps. Thanks
Continued) are LOW BUDGET, LOW POWER parts, PERIOD!!! In the engine building community Eagle is Street Stuff. I know some of you out there are going to cry foul here, and say "the Eagle catalog says they have 800, 1200 Horse power ratings", and since we all know that magazines (hot rod, CHP, Pop hot rod) Never lie, just like company catalogs NEVER LIE about there products it would be hard for a TH-cam guy like be to be believed over them million dollar factories (continued
Continued) but you can believe me that I would not build an engine (small block) over 625 HP or BBC over 750 to 800 HP, they just wont take it for long, Eagle is for people who build medium performance street stuff. IF you want the real deal, then these names is what you should be looking into: Crower, BRC, Oliver, Carrillo, BME. These components are not even in the same league as this Eagle Crap, not even close. I hope this helps. Thanks
This is really basic stuff, I just did not know how many people knew that the SIR Rods have room for improvement here. Some of the rods are really bad on forging overhang, and blending them and shot peening them makes a big difference. Of course you have to balance the rotating assembly afterwards, which was going to happen anyway. Glad you like it.
Thomas:
Still watching. Very interested in this buildl Thanks for the details.
Continued) That being said, all Eagle would do would be to send another rod, and be off the weight balance even MORE than they are (around 3 to 5 grams from one to the other in worst cases). That is why I do this procedure, since I am going to balance the rotating assembly anyway. The point where I would send the ROD back would be IF the parting line was deep going inside the Beam of the rod AFTER the grinding was done. Then I would worry. Remember this my friend, Eagle Cranks and Rods (Cont
I do not have a shotpeener and years ago looked around on the Island to find one. I like shot peening after grinding and polishing because it has an effect of compression and work hardening the surface to make it even stronger and more crack resistant.
YEP, however, the shot peening has to be a part of this deal. I still that even if you done have the shot peener, it has to help cause of the slag/spit out of the mold. Yea, my block guy said the same thing, I guess he is just mad because he has to more work to balance them out, and the lighter pins did not help any.....
These are a few of the tricks that help an engine go from a good engine to a great engine. After lightening, and balancing the throttle response will be snappy.
I tried that years ago, the problem is I want the intake ROUGH, and the stones let you feel the contours of the walls of the runner, letting you know there is now "STEPS" along the way, the flapper wheel will NOT let you feel the transfer to your hands, therefore giving you false wall texture as your blending. Thanks though for the thought....
Yea, you have NO IDEA how many times over the past 15 years I have had to deal with Eagle, mainly the dam crankshafts being to "FAT" on the high side of the clearance, and including bearings (standard) that if you installed them you would not have .0015 clearance. I have had to turn about 50% of the cranks AFTER buying them new in the box. Till the past few years and bearing manufactures figured out they can make money off the crank manufactures cutting the cranks to the big side. LOL.(Continued
WOW, I have not herd or seen any of this. I can say that I would be CAREFULL on buying these things till they have been out a while, look at there heads. It took about 8 years to get to where there at now, and that still leaves a little to be desired. You have to send them to someone like me IF you want them to work and make power, and be mechanical sound. Think it through fella,....
ONLY A DAMN FOOL WOULD DO THIS! HA HA! GOT YA! I do it too so you know we both have issues. According to Charles fayette Taylor a smooth polished finish is worth nearly a 40% increase in strength for forged steel. It takes me a full week to grind, debur, polish and balance a set of Chevy or Eagle or any other damn rod. After you deny the crack a starting point or a stress riser the fatigue life and strength of the rod goes up.
Dude you should send one of those rods back to eagle!
so they can see that they can be made to be perfect and affordable!
Continued) but you can believe me that I would not build an engine (small block) over 625 HP or BBC over 750 to 800 HP, they just wont take it for long, Eagle is for people who build medium performance street stuff. IF you want the real deal, then these names is what you should be looking into: Crower, BRC, Oliver, Carrillo, BME. These components are not even in the same league as this Eagle Crap, not even close. I hope this helps. Thanks
Have you seen any of ProComps " severe duty " chevy engine blocks? They claim it can handle 1500hp. If so what's your take on them.
Continued) are LOW BUDGET, LOW POWER parts, PERIOD!!! In the engine building community Eagle is Street Stuff. I know some of you out there are going to cry foul here, and say "the Eagle catalog says they have 800, 1200 Horse power ratings", and since we all know that magazines (hot rod, CHP, Pop hot rod) Never lie, just like company catalogs NEVER LIE about there products it would be hard for a TH-cam guy like be to be believed over them million dollar factories (continued
Continued) but you can believe me that I would not build an engine (small block) over 625 HP or BBC over 750 to 800 HP, they just wont take it for long, Eagle is for people who build medium performance street stuff. IF you want the real deal, then these names is what you should be looking into: Crower, BRC, Oliver, Carrillo, BME. These components are not even in the same league as this Eagle Crap, not even close. I hope this helps. Thanks