WOW, give me a chance to show things! you guys beat me to the punch sometimes. I was going to show when I assemble the block the EXACT thing your referring to, but since you brought it up the answer is YES. They sell the galley plugs with a .030 orifice hole center of the plug; and I put it on the passenger side galley hole (2,4,6,8) so it catches the chain in the beginning of the rotation keeping the chain TOTALY lubricated. There is another trick to do in that area as well, WAIT for the video.
It just makes it easier to do this first, then chamfer the oil holes, then align hone. You can do it like you mentioned, it just leaves a small ridge after the chamber (LIP) that can did into the bearing. You can remove the ridge with a dingle berry hone and a pass or three with it.
Thanks for this info, I am on a quest for a 383 with a roller cam. Do you ever drill a hole in one of those galley plugs for oiling of the timing gear/chain? (seen this done and wondering if it is advisable)
Thanks for the videos! Do clearances of bearings remain stock or are they enlarged too?? What weight oil will you run? (my stroker is going in a 23' cuddy) It would be interesting to see a build sheet for Holder's Boulder! (cam/ heads/ intake carb etc...)
Wait Please, I am going to show you everything you need to duplicate Holder Boulder. I don't' want to ruin the show here, I have more emails on this then most of my head stuff and I hate building engines, they take way to much of my time. I am a cutter, not a engine builder' however, when I do one they LAST and run like hell because I am a perfectionist in my heads and it just transfers over to the engine. I have done about 50 engines over the past 17 years like this, and not ONE ever came back.
There is NO NEED to do this to the BBC, as it has Priority main oiling (oils the Mains first, then the rods). that being said, IF this is street and it is Hydraulic camshaft, you could do the two side lifter galleys with a 7/16 22" long drill bit. I got them at Drillbit.com in the aircraft bit sections. Just make sure you DON"T go all the way through, go to where the Threads begin coming FROM the timing chain area going to the back of the block. DONT go thru the threads or Block Is Junk
Why do you recommend doing this before align hone? My block has already been done and I would've have loved to have seen this prior. I could use a small counterbore for chamfer after drilling or no.. Your Thoughts. Great videos.
Have you ever done any of this on any SBF blocks like 302's and 351-W. I build quite a lot of Cleveland's and I just run a 3/8 oil line from the back of the block where the back of the intake is at and rout it to where the oil signing unit is located at on the left front side of the block. This helps get extra oil to the #5 main bearing. If you have done any of these helpful tricks to SBF please reply. Thanks for the cool vids.
Wow, Yes and NO at the same time. This is a trick we have been doing for the 455 Pontiac, to help the big 3.250 Mains hold oil at High RPM. We use Brake lines and route it from the oil filter housing and around the back of the block, them drill a hole THROUGH the block near the top of the intake, then around the pushrod area till it gets to the No 2 cam bearing, then drill/screw it in. This solves the oiling coming from the back to the front of the block last, and stops the No. 1 and 2 main from loosing oil. Sounds like the same thing your doing, it WORKS well on the old Yaks.....
I am building a sbc nitrous motor and would like to do this to my block. But I know I cant run a high volume pump because of the little stock oil pan I have to use. It is going in a small car. I don't want to drain the pan dry with a small oil pan and a high volume pump. Will this work with a standard volume z-28 high pressure pump and be worth it? Thanks.
With these same oiling mods done to a GM 2 piece rear, 4 bolt main, ARP studs, billet crank and forged rods and pistons, how much power would the block support? Im looking to build a twin turbo 388ci GM block and around 1000whp ish on the street. Thanks!
WOW, give me a chance to show things! you guys beat me to the punch sometimes. I was going to show when I assemble the block the EXACT thing your referring to, but since you brought it up the answer is YES. They sell the galley plugs with a .030 orifice hole center of the plug; and I put it on the passenger side galley hole (2,4,6,8) so it catches the chain in the beginning of the rotation keeping the chain TOTALY lubricated. There is another trick to do in that area as well, WAIT for the video.
It just makes it easier to do this first, then chamfer the oil holes, then align hone. You can do it like you mentioned, it just leaves a small ridge after the chamber (LIP) that can did into the bearing. You can remove the ridge with a dingle berry hone and a pass or three with it.
Thanks for this info, I am on a quest for a 383 with a roller cam.
Do you ever drill a hole in one of those galley plugs for oiling of the timing gear/chain?
(seen this done and wondering if it is advisable)
Thanks for the videos!
Do clearances of bearings remain stock or are they enlarged too??
What weight oil will you run?
(my stroker is going in a 23' cuddy)
It would be interesting to see a build sheet for Holder's Boulder! (cam/ heads/ intake carb etc...)
Great video man thanks!
great video . where is the best place to find these drill bits..goodson does not carry them and none on ebay..
Wait Please, I am going to show you everything you need to duplicate Holder Boulder. I don't' want to ruin the show here, I have more emails on this then most of my head stuff and I hate building engines, they take way to much of my time. I am a cutter, not a engine builder' however, when I do one they LAST and run like hell because I am a perfectionist in my heads and it just transfers over to the engine. I have done about 50 engines over the past 17 years like this, and not ONE ever came back.
There is NO NEED to do this to the BBC, as it has Priority main oiling (oils the Mains first, then the rods). that being said, IF this is street and it is Hydraulic camshaft, you could do the two side lifter galleys with a 7/16 22" long drill bit. I got them at Drillbit.com in the aircraft bit sections. Just make sure you DON"T go all the way through, go to where the Threads begin coming FROM the timing chain area going to the back of the block. DONT go thru the threads or Block Is Junk
Why do you recommend doing this before align hone? My block has already been done and I would've have loved to have seen this prior. I could use a small counterbore for chamfer after drilling or no.. Your Thoughts. Great videos.
Have you ever done any of this on any SBF blocks like 302's and 351-W. I build quite a lot of Cleveland's and I just run a 3/8 oil line from the back of the block where the back of the intake is at and rout it to where the oil signing unit is located at on the left front side of the block. This helps get extra oil to the #5 main bearing. If you have done any of these helpful tricks to SBF please reply. Thanks for the cool vids.
Wow, Yes and NO at the same time. This is a trick we have been doing for the 455 Pontiac, to help the big 3.250 Mains hold oil at High RPM. We use Brake lines and route it from the oil filter housing and around the back of the block, them drill a hole THROUGH the block near the top of the intake, then around the pushrod area till it gets to the No 2 cam bearing, then drill/screw it in. This solves the oiling coming from the back to the front of the block last, and stops the No. 1 and 2 main from loosing oil. Sounds like the same thing your doing, it WORKS well on the old Yaks.....
I am building a sbc nitrous motor and would like to do this to my block. But I know I cant run a high volume pump because of the little stock oil pan I have to use. It is going in a small car. I don't want to drain the pan dry with a small oil pan and a high volume pump. Will this work with a standard volume z-28 high pressure pump and be worth it? Thanks.
Try Drilbit you know what (it wont let me post a link here, I hate that crap)
Can i do this to a 454 big block
With these same oiling mods done to a GM 2 piece rear, 4 bolt main, ARP studs, billet crank and forged rods and pistons, how much power would the block support?
Im looking to build a twin turbo 388ci GM block and around 1000whp ish on the street. Thanks!