Nice job! Only thing I would add is to remove your fuel pump relay in trunk before starting engine then spin engine over few times to prime the new tensioner, once primed put back relay then start engine.
I see this comment a lot in these videos, how critical would it be to not disconnect it and start the car anyway? I see a lot of forums explain the process of changing the tensioner, but none of them I see will do this step
@@TheEpicHitmarker I learnt this from a master bmw tech and it’s helpful to prime tensioner first by spinning the starter without fuel pump relay so it doesn’t start, do 5 to 6 cycles with key then reinstall fuel pump relay and start the car! It’s better for the tensioner and guides since tensioner is dry when installed until oil reaches it, it’s the first few seconds without oil pressure your trying to avoid. Good luck it’s very simple procedure.
@@TheEpicHitmarker turn on the starter like your trying to start the car! I won’t start without relay but will spin the engine to develop oil pressure to tensioner.
@@spaceexplorer6636 what’s to stop the chain missing/jumping a couple of teeth on the cogs once the new tensioner is fitted that has no oil pressure ? My local mechanic said he’d want to lock the engine first before attempting this job so as not to screw up the timing.
I would take my 1998 e38 to a bmw experienced mechanic and would pay his price. Now because of you not only do I get to learn on my own but I get to enjoy working on my bad as ride! 😎 Psa she only has 95k miles on the engine
another good vid you done, let me tell you, this engine does NOT break down with the chain slides and so on... BUT..... you have to change OIL and the the coolant on time, the over heated chain slides break down because of the high temp. and plastic is designed to NOT be over heated, the chain tensioner got to be changed every 70.000 km as a prevention
We have got to get you some serious help lol Warts and all but probably saves £150 or dollar equivalent. The old greeting, even in England, was " Peace, love & the American way " Easy rider style. Thanks as always great fun.
When I got my e38 that was the first thing I replaced. It wasn't making any noise, but the weird thing is that it started making noise after I changed it. Just for a second and then gies away. I heard is because the Vanos is dry with no oil and once you start the engine it lubes it
Wobble lol, love it. Isn't it a knee extension. I would advise to let the new tensioner be a bit soaked in oil. Annoying job but very important, especially for the M62 with the plastic guides!
I did try to change mine on the M62B44 non-vanos. It also had the longer yet softer spring. But even filled with oil, it made a ticking (chain ?) noise when accelerating past 2000rpm. I switched back to the original tensioner and no more ticking. Did it also happened to anyone else ?...
I am getting ready to do this to my 98 540i and I am wondering how long it actually took to get the new tensioner in, why or what needs to be done to make the install easier? Thanks
The tensioner comes collapsed, but I accidentally touched it where it pees and it got big... so it made it more difficult to install. About 10mins. I would say if you install it just the way it comes in the box and don't mess with it you should have an easier time.
This just started happening to me. I started my e38, ticking didn’t start until car was almost warm and I have a check engine light on. I am preparing to do this job. Ticking started 5 days ago. Hasn’t got worse, also I have not driven it for a full day. Was yours ticking before the replacement
Is it safe to doe this during an oil change? I’m gonna be doing one soon so I’m thinkin ab emptying the oil and then putting the tensioner in then the oil
Should be fine, just make sure you fill up the oil filter housing with oil before you start the car. Follow my oil change video if you don’t know what I mean
@@ARPerez it’s the official instruction of tensioner installation. Rev high to 3000-3500 to prevent chain skipping a tooth and for pressure and vibration to release the tensioner (since installing it compressed)
@@ARPerez there’s also a reason why installing it compressed is recommended for one can shred the threads during install and the tensioner itself can seize making the guide rub too much onto the chain.
The one I ordered (bilstein made in Germany) seems to have quite a bit of oil applied to it from the factory. It would seem to be enough until the oil reaches it. Anyone else installed one from bilstein lately? Oh, and great video as always dude.
@@ARPerez Just got back from shopping after installing it. Startup rattle completely gone. I was really starting to worry it was the guides, as it seemed to be getting worse lately. What a cheap way to prolong the life of the guides and relieve some worry! Thanks again man!
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Nice job!
Only thing I would add is to remove your fuel pump relay in trunk before starting engine then spin engine over few times to prime the new tensioner, once primed put back relay then start engine.
I see this comment a lot in these videos, how critical would it be to not disconnect it and start the car anyway? I see a lot of forums explain the process of changing the tensioner, but none of them I see will do this step
@@TheEpicHitmarker I learnt this from a master bmw tech and it’s helpful to prime tensioner first by spinning the starter without fuel pump relay so it doesn’t start, do 5 to 6 cycles with key then reinstall fuel pump relay and start the car! It’s better for the tensioner and guides since tensioner is dry when installed until oil reaches it, it’s the first few seconds without oil pressure your trying to avoid.
Good luck it’s very simple procedure.
@@spaceexplorer6636 can you explain what you mean by “spinning the starter”
@@TheEpicHitmarker turn on the starter like your trying to start the car! I won’t start without relay but will spin the engine to develop oil pressure to tensioner.
@@spaceexplorer6636 what’s to stop the chain missing/jumping a couple of teeth on the cogs once the new tensioner is fitted that has no oil pressure ? My local mechanic said he’d want to lock the engine first before attempting this job so as not to screw up the timing.
Submerge the tensioner in oil and compress it a few times to fill it, then install.
I was waiting for this. Thank god AR Perez got us.
Glad it helped you!
I would take my 1998 e38 to a bmw experienced mechanic and would pay his price. Now because of you not only do I get to learn on my own but I get to enjoy working on my bad as ride! 😎 Psa she only has 95k miles on the engine
🙌🏽 Awesome! Glad I can be of service
another good vid you done, let me tell you, this engine does NOT break down with the chain slides and so on... BUT..... you have to change OIL and the the coolant on time, the over heated chain slides break down because of the high temp. and plastic is designed to NOT be over heated, the chain tensioner got to be changed every 70.000 km as a prevention
We have got to get you some serious help lol Warts and all but probably saves £150 or dollar equivalent. The old greeting, even in England, was " Peace, love & the American way " Easy rider style. Thanks as always great fun.
Ave maria that start up scared me bro. LOL....
Bro my soul left my body for a moment 💀
Thats because you're supposed to submerge the unit in oil and depress prior to installation.
This tensioner job is a must for these E38 BMW'S. Do it often and save your timing chains.
When I got my e38 that was the first thing I replaced. It wasn't making any noise, but the weird thing is that it started making noise after I changed it. Just for a second and then gies away. I heard is because the Vanos is dry with no oil and once you start the engine it lubes it
Very easy to do!!! Took me less than 30 mins!!!👊🏾
Wobble lol, love it. Isn't it a knee extension. I would advise to let the new tensioner be a bit soaked in oil. Annoying job but very important, especially for the M62 with the plastic guides!
I did try to change mine on the M62B44 non-vanos. It also had the longer yet softer spring. But even filled with oil, it made a ticking (chain ?) noise when accelerating past 2000rpm. I switched back to the original tensioner and no more ticking. Did it also happened to anyone else ?...
nice video, thanks for taking the time to make it!
Thanks for watching it!
Maybe you should lubricate the piston so it doesn't sound so bad at first start?
I am getting ready to do this to my 98 540i and I am wondering how long it actually took to get the new tensioner in, why or what needs to be done to make the install easier? Thanks
The tensioner comes collapsed, but I accidentally touched it where it pees and it got big... so it made it more difficult to install. About 10mins. I would say if you install it just the way it comes in the box and don't mess with it you should have an easier time.
Is there any way to re collapse the tensioner? I did the same thing smh @@ARPerez
Great video, brother!
OH man thanks! I appreciate your support!!
This just started happening to me. I started my e38, ticking didn’t start until car was almost warm and I have a check engine light on. I am preparing to do this job. Ticking started 5 days ago. Hasn’t got worse, also I have not driven it for a full day. Was yours ticking before the replacement
Once in a while upon start up
@@ARPerez It was my guides I’m timing it now
My e38 makes a diesel sound NOT just at start up but when the engine in running, would the tensioner fix that? thoughts??
It could, I would drop the oil pan and inspect for debris, you know just to make sure
40nm torque, just did this job today.
Was yours ticking before you replaced it?
Do this early don't let yours end up like mine when I got it. Jumped time
Is it safe to doe this during an oil change? I’m gonna be doing one soon so I’m thinkin ab emptying the oil and then putting the tensioner in then the oil
Should be fine, just make sure you fill up the oil filter housing with oil before you start the car. Follow my oil change video if you don’t know what I mean
Did you end up installing the tensioner compressed? Is that why it took longer to install it?
Yeppppp
Awesooome, thanks!
The rattle on start up has just started happening today. I’m due to drive 300 mile round trip this week. Is it safe to do this?
You should be fine, if it just started just keep an eye on it
I did not have any weird noise upon starting after putting thr new one in. Is that ok?
Yeah should be great!
Pull fuel pump fuse before starting. Then, cycle oil.
Best intro ever ! Stay blessed stay happy brother 🙏🏼
Oh man thanks a lot!
Is this what is called the lower timing chain tensioner?
Yessir
How do you know which tensioner to change
What do you mean? You can see the location in the video
Didn’t you have to rev it high on initial start up?
What’s the purpose of that?
@@ARPerez it’s the official instruction of tensioner installation. Rev high to 3000-3500 to prevent chain skipping a tooth and for pressure and vibration to release the tensioner (since installing it compressed)
@@ARPerez there’s also a reason why installing it compressed is recommended for one can shred the threads during install and the tensioner itself can seize making the guide rub too much onto the chain.
like it
Torque is suppose to be 29.5 foot pounds
The one I ordered (bilstein made in Germany) seems to have quite a bit of oil applied to it from the factory.
It would seem to be enough until the oil reaches it.
Anyone else installed one from bilstein lately?
Oh, and great video as always dude.
Yep it should work :)
@@ARPerez Just got back from shopping after installing it.
Startup rattle completely gone.
I was really starting to worry it was the guides, as it seemed to be getting worse lately.
What a cheap way to prolong the life of the guides and relieve some worry!
Thanks again man!
yes just got one in the mail today and it already had grease in it !