HM310T Automatic output always ON is possible via OUTPUT/MENU button and there is an option to have ON at boot. The more i use it, the more i like this little unit. How ever, given its design, its not well built but it will get the job done for sure so out the two, i will keep this one for sure. It also "in theory" supports PC/Software interface which have yet explored.
@@justjoe7313 no. I didn't even see it before I posted this. Am sure your comment is still there somewhere. I have no good reason to delete comments so maybe Google flagged it for some reason.
@northwestrepair After watching all your videos, I'm actually unsure which graphics cards i can buy in any way that isnt baldy desingt. Could you please give me a recommendation for an RTX 4080/4090? MAYBE even with AIO. After a fan at my MSI GT76 Titan (desktop cpu/gpu in a Laptop /2 Powerbricks) no longer wants and MSI takes a lot of time to give me the data for the fans and thermal pads and I am not on the road anymore as much professionally, it is time for me to switch to a desktop again. Kind regards
Slow drop is because of capacitors on the output. If they affect current limit or not depends on where they are, but you will still not have a true constant current, always a spike on connection. The drop on turning down is because it is only a single quadrant supply, it cannot sink current, though that probably is doable by a little more design work to make the main switching converter able to operate in 2 quadrant mode, and sink current as well, though that does make for a lot more complex controller to run the converter.
Hello. A video suggestion. Can you make a video about gigabyte software and how bad they are? I used (Aorus engine 2.2.5) from Gigabyte for a long time, which ran relatively well but not quite perfectly. I upgraded to the latest (version 2.2.6.0) and my computer got a blue screen and restarted when Aorus Engine started up in win11. I had to go into sage mode to uninstall the aorus engine. I have the very latest win11 update to win11 pro and 23H2
On the Korad hold M1 again to turn the beeps back on. Just tap the memory button to save while you are in edit mode. Also, hold the on/off button to save the power state.
I have one like the Korad but under a different brand - RND. I am very happy with it for my board level repair things. I would hate it if it would switch as slow as the Hanmatek. I also do prefer a linear power supply.
I came across your TH-cam today for the first time and I just want to say these videos of you repairing GPUs are amazing I've enjoyed building PCs since I was 13 but this stuff you are doing I don't even understand a lot of it. Very excites to watch more of your content.
A little tidbit of information which seems to not be known or talked about. The Korad power supplies with the part # ending in "E", as in K3005DE, have a remote on/off switch port (turn voltage off/on after voltage/amperage is selected) and also a 4 wire sense port so it can compensate for the resistance of the leads or other components involved.
Korad will auto save on what you selected from M1 to M4. If u select M2 and make your changes it will stay on those values. Swap to M3 and back to M2 you'll see those previous m2 changes. They basically auto save as you flip between the M1 to M4 buttons. I think holding M2 turns beep on/off.
Voltage would probably drop faster if you had a load. Likely has bus caps that need to discharge. Output defaults to off so you can turn it on and make adjustmets without disconnecting the load. Thats the problem with other supplies, if it was last set to 24v youd have to turn it on, adjust it, turn it off, hook it up then turn it back on. The separate output that defaults to off is a good thing.
Mine is Korad M5 is when you select M4 and turn the knob to the right. i guess it is a security feature to avoid accidental shift in voltage i dont really know
I am persinally in a kind of disbelief that linear Korad produces the same HF output noise as switching Hanmatek. Also, how many times one changes the bank settings? You need to do that once. I don't understand what the problem is? IMO Tony is a bit demanding to a USD100 power supply.
Not sure if it works on yours but on my older hanmatek 305P there is s hidden menu that you access while holding the output button then pressing the power button, I only used it once to turn off the beep as I found it annoying, maybe there is a possibility you can set the output to auto that way..
A question: does the output noise of the power supply improve with load? Can't test that with my NANKADF (and what a bunch o letters that is :D ) WPS3010H as I don't have the oscilloscope.
So Riden is not a regulated power supply? I have small version of Riden and I found it’s not getting any higher voltage than power supply that powers Riden, which is odd? Anyway regardless of that Riden wasnt a better choice?
Hi, I think it has a capacitor with a resistor across it that has to discharge before you are at the correct volts. how about modifying it with a noise filter?
Thy guy at the end looks more like a sumo wrestler than a ninja! Both are good life choices... like the power supplies. It just depends on what you want to achieve...
Always love anything that i can learn about how to PROPERLY use or set tools there are so many people out there telling half truths and all out lies, without a care for who or what they may damage in the end, i follow a guy about batteries and his first advice to me always is, you really shouldnt do that do you know what the consequences are and that this is very unsafe but.... since your going to do it anyway i will tell you how, either way my point is he makes sure i know that what i am doing could be very dangerous if improperly or incorrectly done and that i could blow my hand off for example but most people assume since your asking the question you know what your doing when the average person doesnt know anything other than what they saw on a you tube video weather it be right wrong or indifferent
Thanks for this input, Kyle. I actually have their thermal camera which wasn't cheap but a pretty good device. I didn't know they made power supplies and scopes too.
@@northwestrepair I was just thinking... If the noise on the linear supply is the same for all voltage output, can that be some interference noise from other equipment? Or maybe just imperfect Korad design? That makes sense. Japanese gear is better protected but Korad is more susceptible due to cheap manufacturing? You can check the noise source in Korad with oscilloscope easily. And that can be fixable.
Could be worse, just imagine turning it on, setting a preset on volts and amperage, then hearing a ding followed with 'The Bluetooth Device is ahh connected-ah successfully! “ -Deuces
Hi, Are you interested in recycling DC power supplies at low prices? I have a lot of DC power supplies with damaged packaging but no place to dispose of them.
Unfortunately when you try to see the ripple on your power supply, this is not the way. You’re picking up all sorts of stuff. It is surprisingly hard to measure ripple on a power supply. 2 probes AC coupled and subtracting one channel from the other would be way better. Also, it is measured on a 20Mhz bandwidth.
Tony that HANMATEK seems to be a switching PS. The Chinese ones have a very noisy DC output. I was to buy KORAD KA3005D but you say that the noise level is as on the switching one. That's disappointing. Maybe modifying and adding more caps could filter the output though. Try UNI-T UTP3315TFL-II ppl say that's better. But without memory banks.
@@flightsimdev9021 yeah but they do make it cheaper too so some design is taking place. It's funny how they added a handle on a hantek but not on the other lol.
![[MV] A leap of faith...ความเชื่อใจครั้งสุดท้าย (From "Petrichor the series")](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/U1piZH2CNXA/mqdefault.jpg)
HM310T Automatic output always ON is possible via OUTPUT/MENU button and there is an option to have ON at boot.
The more i use it, the more i like this little unit.
How ever, given its design, its not well built but it will get the job done for sure so out the two, i will keep this one for sure.
It also "in theory" supports PC/Software interface which have yet explored.
@@justjoe7313 no. I didn't even see it before I posted this.
Am sure your comment is still there somewhere.
I have no good reason to delete comments so maybe Google flagged it for some reason.
@@northwestrepair Thanks, will delete my comment on this.
@northwestrepair After watching all your videos, I'm actually unsure which graphics cards i can buy in any way that isnt baldy desingt. Could you please give me a recommendation for an RTX 4080/4090? MAYBE even with AIO.
After a fan at my MSI GT76 Titan (desktop cpu/gpu in a Laptop /2 Powerbricks) no longer wants and MSI takes a lot of time to give me the data for the fans and thermal pads and I am not on the road anymore as much professionally, it is time for me to switch to a desktop again.
Kind regards
Slow drop is because of capacitors on the output. If they affect current limit or not depends on where they are, but you will still not have a true constant current, always a spike on connection. The drop on turning down is because it is only a single quadrant supply, it cannot sink current, though that probably is doable by a little more design work to make the main switching converter able to operate in 2 quadrant mode, and sink current as well, though that does make for a lot more complex controller to run the converter.
Hello. A video suggestion.
Can you make a video about gigabyte software and how bad they are?
I used
(Aorus engine 2.2.5)
from Gigabyte for a long time,
which ran relatively well but not quite perfectly. I upgraded to the latest
(version 2.2.6.0)
and my computer got a blue screen and restarted when Aorus Engine started up in win11.
I had to go into sage mode to uninstall the aorus engine.
I have the very latest win11 update to win11 pro and 23H2
Korad actually has 5 memory banks. M5 = M4 + turn knob
On the Korad hold M1 again to turn the beeps back on. Just tap the memory button to save while you are in edit mode. Also, hold the on/off button to save the power state.
Thanks for sharing this! As a newbie to electronics, I appreciate seeing reviews of Pros on different tools they use.
I have one like the Korad but under a different brand - RND. I am very happy with it for my board level repair things. I would hate it if it would switch as slow as the Hanmatek. I also do prefer a linear power supply.
Awesome , always great to see your videos!
I came across your TH-cam today for the first time and I just want to say these videos of you repairing GPUs are amazing I've enjoyed building PCs since I was 13 but this stuff you are doing I don't even understand a lot of it. Very excites to watch more of your content.
A little tidbit of information which seems to not be known or talked about. The Korad power supplies with the part # ending in "E", as in K3005DE, have a remote on/off switch port (turn voltage off/on after voltage/amperage is selected) and also a 4 wire sense port so it can compensate for the resistance of the leads or other components involved.
I have the same Korad supply. I like it. Suits my needs
Without any hesitation go for RD6012P-W (5 digits), quite low ripple with a MEAN WELL PSU, usb calibration, wi-fi and the keyboard is a game-changer.
I think KORAD memory remembers the last edits you made. There is no need to click a save button.
I have Riden too myself its purfect.
Purfect? lol
Korad will auto save on what you selected from M1 to M4. If u select M2 and make your changes it will stay on those values. Swap to M3 and back to M2 you'll see those previous m2 changes. They basically auto save as you flip between the M1 to M4 buttons. I think holding M2 turns beep on/off.
Voltage would probably drop faster if you had a load. Likely has bus caps that need to discharge. Output defaults to off so you can turn it on and make adjustmets without disconnecting the load. Thats the problem with other supplies, if it was last set to 24v youd have to turn it on, adjust it, turn it off, hook it up then turn it back on. The separate output that defaults to off is a good thing.
Mine is Korad M5 is when you select M4 and turn the knob to the right. i guess it is a security feature to avoid accidental shift in voltage i dont really know
I am persinally in a kind of disbelief that linear Korad produces the same HF output noise as switching Hanmatek.
Also, how many times one changes the bank settings? You need to do that once. I don't understand what the problem is? IMO Tony is a bit demanding to a USD100 power supply.
Awesome video
Not sure if it works on yours but on my older hanmatek 305P there is s hidden menu that you access while holding the output button then pressing the power button, I only used it once to turn off the beep as I found it annoying, maybe there is a possibility you can set the output to auto that way..
A question: does the output noise of the power supply improve with load? Can't test that with my NANKADF (and what a bunch o letters that is :D ) WPS3010H as I don't have the oscilloscope.
So Riden is not a regulated power supply? I have small version of Riden and I found it’s not getting any higher voltage than power supply that powers Riden, which is odd? Anyway regardless of that Riden wasnt a better choice?
Hi, I think it has a capacitor with a resistor across it that has to discharge before you are at the correct volts. how about modifying it with a noise filter?
I bougjt a benchtop power supply a few minths ago and never tested it. I just did and holy shit, It is consistently 1v below spec.
greetings from viewer in Libya. this channel is very educational and fun.
Thy guy at the end looks more like a sumo wrestler than a ninja! Both are good life choices... like the power supplies. It just depends on what you want to achieve...
Always love anything that i can learn about how to PROPERLY use or set tools there are so many people out there telling half truths and all out lies, without a care for who or what they may damage in the end, i follow a guy about batteries and his first advice to me always is, you really shouldnt do that do you know what the consequences are and that this is very unsafe but.... since your going to do it anyway i will tell you how, either way my point is he makes sure i know that what i am doing could be very dangerous if improperly or incorrectly done and that i could blow my hand off for example but most people assume since your asking the question you know what your doing when the average person doesnt know anything other than what they saw on a you tube video weather it be right wrong or indifferent
Good information about it thanks 👍😅
tony can you give me advice please ,i have msi duke 1080ti have same amount of errors on all vram what this mean gpu need reballing ?
I really need to get mine setup
Good video, some nice info in here :)
UNI-T seems to be a good budget supply and scope. Have bought a bunch of their tools.
Thanks for this input, Kyle. I actually have their thermal camera which wasn't cheap but a pretty good device. I didn't know they made power supplies and scopes too.
@@Turco949 i bought their higher end thermal cam, paid for itself many times over
Linear Uni-t of the same price doesn't even have memory banks
you didnt test the korad with oscilloscope?
Because the noise on linear Korad is minimal compared to switching Hanmatek.
I did. It looked the same except it was exact same noise regardless of the voltage set.
@@northwestrepair I was just thinking... If the noise on the linear supply is the same for all voltage output, can that be some interference noise from other equipment? Or maybe just imperfect Korad design? That makes sense. Japanese gear is better protected but Korad is more susceptible due to cheap manufacturing?
You can check the noise source in Korad with oscilloscope easily. And that can be fixable.
Cool
Could be worse, just imagine turning it on, setting a preset on volts and amperage, then hearing a ding followed with 'The Bluetooth Device is ahh connected-ah successfully! “
-Deuces
Hi, Are you interested in recycling DC power supplies at low prices? I have a lot of DC power supplies with damaged packaging but no place to dispose of them.
👍👍👌👌
Unfortunately when you try to see the ripple on your power supply, this is not the way. You’re picking up all sorts of stuff. It is surprisingly hard to measure ripple on a power supply. 2 probes AC coupled and subtracting one channel from the other would be way better. Also, it is measured on a 20Mhz bandwidth.
I have a Korad KA3005D and... It have only two displays 😱😱😱. Why yours have 3 ???
It's new version KA3005DS
Everyone just went,,, hmmm what does Kenwood go for on eBay … yikes ! But for a pro. Seems like the The best route to go.
Seriously, there is a used TS-990S selling for more than what my car is worth!
Tony that HANMATEK seems to be a switching PS. The Chinese ones have a very noisy DC output. I was to buy KORAD KA3005D but you say that the noise level is as on the switching one. That's disappointing. Maybe modifying and adding more caps could filter the output though.
Try UNI-T UTP3315TFL-II ppl say that's better. But without memory banks.
ambient mode hurts my eyes google ,quit it
What iş hello internet.
Selam veriyor adam
Ofilos kop 😂😂😂😂😂
I am not surprised, that Chinese product has all that noise. It probably is cheap knock off, with 2nd grade parts in it.
Chinese don't design, they copy and replicate.
@@flightsimdev9021 yeah but they do make it cheaper too so some design is taking place.
It's funny how they added a handle on a hantek but not on the other lol.
You really like to waste money!
A bit wordy man. More straight to the point would be less painful, and way shorter video.
The difference between the 10 and the 5 amps is the transformer, so you can't modify it for cheap 😉
I clearly prefer the white one between, the two.