Great video Dan, thanks very much! I searched for hours to find the correct method, and here you have it! I'm looking to buy an SM and see no reason for the tall suspension, not to mention I have rather short legs...
thanks for the video, took me about an hour to put the rear end back to stock height, luckily whoever lowered it missed a step and didnt turn the disc.
You just taught me something. I have a 30 inch inseam, so I definitely need to do that soon. That would be a big help for me. Thanks, and "thumbs up" from this Kentucky boy.
Thanks for the video , I've just factory lowered my ( new to me) dr650, pretty easy to do , thanks . ( looks better with the forks level with triple clamps !)
@@swexplorer It would affect the geometry of the bike making the steering alot slower. Ideally you should always lower both ends of any bike the same. How ever lots of people fit lowering links to the rear of bikes and don't notice much difference
Greetings As always another fantastic detailed video 🇺🇸🎉🇺🇸. Did you leave the wide washer between the gray collar and the yellow bumper stop? Thank you so much for assisting me. Keep producing more videos.
Further to my previous comment about improvising special tool for holding damper rod, I see that Biker Bits on " DR650 Replace Fork Seals..." found an even simpler method. He just bought a 1 metre length of 1 inch square RHS steel tubing; and held that in a vice. The 4 corners of the RHS perfectly slot into the 30mm. double hex socket at the top of the damper rod.
@@MOTODANSYour video stands proud as the definitive guide to lowering DR650. One other point to add: lowering the whole bike 38mm. made my after-market SW-Motech centre-stand way too tall to pull the bike back onto. Just as you need to shorten the original side-stand, so also do you need to shorten the legs of the centre-stand (if fitted).
Howdy, Achieved success with putting the rear end back to normal height. Just working on putting the original stand back on, springs are tricky.... Just to let you know our Suzuki dealer quoted me $190 to make these height changes!! Thanks again for you helpful video etc. Regards Roy
Well done Roy! Glad I could help. Yes the stand springs are Abit tricky there is a special tool for pulling them. I have had success by putting the springs on the stand first and then pulling the stand and putting the bolt In last. Hard to explain but you will figure it out. Put the money you saved toward some mods!
I tried to use your method to loosen the damper hex bolt, but it was very tight, and rounded off the hex. So, I'm buying the tool to hold the damper stationary. Bummer, will probably only use it once. The video was still very useful to get a good visual what needs done. Thanks!
Hey Dan, great video, I am going to be doing this mod very soon but will be dropping in Cogent springs and DDC's at the same time, do you think this will effect the preload at the top of the fork? Take care Ross from BC, Canada
Hey Ross, I would suspect the new springs will be shorter, it should come with new spacer material which you will have to measure and cut to your needs
@@MOTODANS I lowered mine and I want to upgrade my front suspension but I don’t know if the fact that I lowered it would have something to do with upgrading it
Hello Great video, patient detail. I have recently bought a DR which is currently lowered “the easy way”. I am wanting to bring the bike back up to its normal height. Just checking, loosen front fork clamp bolts move forks back up the 40mm and tighten? Rear end, reposition bolt to lower hole? Set rear spring at 47mm? Many Thanks Roy
Hey Roy. Yep loosen the fork clamps and slide them back up so they are flush with the top triple tree. Yep the back is just swap the bolt and set the rear spring preload as needed for your weight.
Hey Benan. I am 5'6 roughly 30" inseam. This was my partners bike who is 5'4 ( she also had to have a lowered seat ) my own Dr650 I run at standard height, standard seat and with lowered pegs as I found it Abit cramped
well done video,,thanks there ,audio needs enhancing, , is it doable to just lower the rear?, as Im tall and 66 y ....but find it a wee too tall , too sling leg over easily ...but really love this bike, bog stock and run in at 3K , it does everything well , and just did a 120 k wet trip on gentle winding highway at many times too 140 + kph (90mph) chasing a guy on a DUCATI !what a bike c heers all !
Thanks. Yep you are correct regarding audio I had alot of issues with my early videos it should be sorted on all the current ones. Yes it is certainly doable however it may affect the handling of the bike. How ever lots of people fit lowering links and report no issues. This would be a better solution over a lowering link. Nice to see you are enjoying the bike!
@@MOTODANS yes thanks' for speedy reply! , will do the mod. as you have instructed ...Ta ...really as an all rounder/basic bullet proo f /user friendly these bikes' are unbeatable IMO...Cheers! and ride well
Top of damper rod assembly is finished with 30mm.internal double hex socket. Easiest way to make up special holding-tool is to obtain a 30mm. nut from a 3/4"( or 20mm. metric) bolt. Then you need to attach an extension at least 450mm. long to reach down inside fork-tube. I just used the 30mm. bolt-head itself of a big long bridge bolt; and clamped a piece of bar between 2 nuts to act as a handle. That way, I could undo damper rod-bolt easily, and re-torque up correctly.
I've been looking for a video about how to do it for weeks. Thanks! I did learn a lot. You should try to show how to go on the rear shock completely too.
thanks for the content ... that seems very intimidating for a newb lol... do you want to do this if you lower ride height by using 1" longer lowering links? I guess what I'm asking is .. is it important to do all three adjustments (flip rear spring, lowering links and front spacer) or can you be conservative and just lengthen links?
Not sure on that. I would say probably not do this as well as lowering links. It isn't too hard to do and no parts are needed. If you are unsure on doing it yourself perhaps a bike shop could do it for you for a similar cost as what a set of lowering links cost? One downside of the lowering link it you are also changing the spring rate as you are putting more leverage onto the shock.
@@MOTODANSthanks ...I might work up to giving it a try. I would like to have more sure footing. Are you saying I should do just the rear spring adjust and front mod but not change lowering links? I appreciate the advice
Great video, thank you. For the front, I still don't really understand what the difference is between the shortcut way and the correct way. With the shortcut, is it that your suspension travel is not reduced by the amount you lower, so the forks "bottom out" lower down, causing possible hitting the ground sooner?
Thanks. So the problem with doing the lowering the shortcut way both front and rear is you are decreasing your ground clearance but maintaining full suspension travel. Which in extreme circumstances can cause the bike, either the sump/frame to hit the ground or the wheels to hit the frame. Lowering the bike the correct way reduces your ground clearance and your suspension travel accordingly meaning your suspension bottoms out before anything makes contact where it shouldn't.
Dude you are my savior! Been trying to get a Suzuki dealer to do this that has just recently taken on the suzuki brand and they were not sure on how to do it. If I give them this and they have the proper tools it shouldn't take them longer than 2 1/2 hours and that's putting in the new cogent springs, oil, and drop in damper cartridge. Is the whole procedure in the factory service manual? Mine is a 2020 model so I'm guessing mine and yours would be the exact same process
Hey Jack, yes it should be easy for them to do no longer than 2.5 probably less. Yes whole procedure is in the manual step by step. Also you are correct it is the same procedure for your bike as mine. Good luck let me know how you get on! Enjoy the upgrade. Also if dealer is doing it just double check they have done it correctly when you get it back as they do like to take the easy way.
Hi once again another interesting video thanks mate👍 when you were measuring the preload towards the end there was it the length of the spring that was 250mm? If I remove the collar could i just return the spring to whatever the original measurement was? Sorry that bit has me confused lol
Thanks :) So the measurements in the manual for spring length ( preload ) are 238.5mm ( Stiffest ) - 253.5mm ( softest ). I set mine around the 250mm mark. You could just set the spring to the same measurement as long as you measured the actual spring and not the adjuster rings, as when you remove that bottom collar and switch it around you are essentially raising up the collar so the spring would be sitting higher from the bottom. so if you put the collars in the same position you would have alot more preload. Does that help? Also make sure you measure the spring with no weight on it either with the whole shock out of bike or with the rear wheel off the ground like i did. Cheers Dan
Hello, Me again. I have adjusted my front forks back to standard height. With the back can you advise if I have to loosen the spring before changing the bolt back to the lower hole/setting? Thank You
Hey Roy. You shouldn't have to if you lift the back wheel off the ground and then support the weight of it you will be able to remove the bolt and change its position. You would only have to loosen the spring if it was lowered the proper way and you needed to turn the collar around.
Hey Dan. Great no-nonsense vids, thanks. Does that adjustment to the forks make them lighter? Or does moving the space from the top to the bottom even out the spring tension?
Thanks Lou, as far as i am aware it keeps the spring preload the same. I have ridden my bike both lowered and regular height and never noticed any differece
G’day Dan, what a great video, it has given me the knowledge and confidence to do my own lowering of my DR. I just have a couple of questions, did you use any washers anywhere on the dampening rod? And was there a washer on top of the spacer and the fork end nut? Cheers mate 👍 Andrew from Tasmania
Hey Andrew, Sorry for the late reply. So the only thing you swap is the spacer the stock washer does not get moved and i added no washer to the dampening rod. So stock it goes spring, washer, spacer, cap after lowering the spacer get put on the dampening rod and up top it is spring, washer cap. Hope that is what you were after? Cheers Dan
Hey Andrew, I am not on facebook, You can contact me through instagram though if you have that. Do you have access to repair manual? If not i can send you that it has exploded parts diagrams of the forks lowered and standard
Yes. Either with an impact gun like I did or you could make a tool to suit. I have even seen people use broom handles down the fork which was just enough to hold it. Just bear in mind if you use impact you can't torque the bolt.
Show you in the video a quick way to check. Generally if the forks have been lowered through the triple trees then it has been done wrong. There is also a measurement if you jack the bike up. The rears you need to look at the collar on the bottom of the shock I show in the video which way it should be
@@MOTODANS lol let’s hope so! Thanks for the response! Any idea if I can remove the top bolt off the fork tube while the fork is still on the bike? Maybe if I get the weight off the front end? Just trying to confirm the spacer is still up top.
@@MOTODANS great news! The dealer or PO was a hack and didn’t do it properly! Spacer was right under the top cap! Brilliant. Didn’t have to worry about the cap getting stuck under the clamp, because whoever did the “lowering” just slid the forks up in the clamps. smh lol. Thanks so much for your help man.
My bike was lowered as I just feel generally more confident when I can get more foot to the ground. So I had the fun of riding a DR but without having to slide my arse too far off the seat to get a foot on the ground when stationary. 😉😂
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Great video Dan, thanks very much! I searched for hours to find the correct method, and here you have it! I'm looking to buy an SM and see no reason for the tall suspension, not to mention I have rather short legs...
No problem, thanks for watching! Enjoy the bike!
Actually reversed a lowering job on my used dr. Worked great. Repaired head shake . Thank you. Dave K
best lowering video ive seen for this bike. thanks for shareing mate.
Thanks for the comment Gary 👍
thanks for the video, took me about an hour to put the rear end back to stock height, luckily whoever lowered it missed a step and didnt turn the disc.
Great video, where are you measuring from and to on the rear shock?
No need to measure the rear just look at where the bolt is located in the bottom. Lower position is stock height and upper position is lowered
You just taught me something. I have a 30 inch inseam, so I definitely need to do that soon. That would be a big help for me. Thanks, and "thumbs up" from this Kentucky boy.
No worries! It will make a big difference, whole procedure is in the repair manual. Let me know if you get stuck!
Excellent video. Great detail and explanations. Thanks!
Thanks for the video , I've just factory lowered my ( new to me) dr650, pretty easy to do , thanks . ( looks better with the forks level with triple clamps !)
Glad it helped Peter 👍
Great video....thanks. I wonder how many shops actually do this properly?
Thank you, I would imagine very few
This was probably the most important video I ever watched! Thank you so much for this, it's such a big help.
No problem at all 👍 Any questions let me know!
@@MOTODANS hey Dan what would happen if I just lowered the rear using your way, and didn't do the front?
@@swexplorer It would affect the geometry of the bike making the steering alot slower. Ideally you should always lower both ends of any bike the same. How ever lots of people fit lowering links to the rear of bikes and don't notice much difference
Great Work! Thank you very much! Greetings from Germany
Greetings
As always another fantastic detailed video 🇺🇸🎉🇺🇸.
Did you leave the wide washer between the gray collar and the yellow bumper stop?
Thank you so much for assisting me.
Keep producing more videos.
Thanks for watching, I believe so the only thing i did was flip that spacer
did everything as you explained. test run tomorrow. thanks
Excellent video. Great that you explained what to do with metal retainer, which dropped when I removed the collar from the rear shock :)
Thanks Chris 👍
Further to my previous comment about improvising special tool for holding damper rod, I see that Biker Bits on " DR650 Replace Fork Seals..." found an even simpler method. He just bought a 1 metre length of 1 inch square RHS steel tubing; and held that in a vice. The 4 corners of the RHS perfectly slot into the 30mm. double hex socket at the top of the damper rod.
Yep i remember watching that, however forgot while i was doing mine! That would be the way to go
@@MOTODANSYour video stands proud as the definitive guide to lowering DR650. One other point to add: lowering the whole bike 38mm. made my after-market SW-Motech centre-stand way too tall to pull the bike back onto. Just as you need to shorten the original side-stand, so also do you need to shorten the legs of the centre-stand (if fitted).
Howdy,
Achieved success with putting the rear end back to normal height. Just working on putting the original stand back on, springs are tricky....
Just to let you know our Suzuki dealer quoted me $190 to make these height changes!!
Thanks again for you helpful video etc.
Regards
Roy
Well done Roy! Glad I could help.
Yes the stand springs are Abit tricky there is a special tool for pulling them. I have had success by putting the springs on the stand first and then pulling the stand and putting the bolt In last. Hard to explain but you will figure it out.
Put the money you saved toward some mods!
I tried to use your method to loosen the damper hex bolt, but it was very tight, and rounded off the hex. So, I'm buying the tool to hold the damper stationary. Bummer, will probably only use it once. The video was still very useful to get a good visual what needs done. Thanks!
Ouch that's not good. Mine came out without issue. Oh well you could possibly re sell the tool once used? Thanks for watching!
Hey Dan, great video, I am going to be doing this mod very soon but will be dropping in Cogent springs and DDC's at the same time, do you think this will effect the preload at the top of the fork? Take care Ross from BC, Canada
Hey Ross, I would suspect the new springs will be shorter, it should come with new spacer material which you will have to measure and cut to your needs
Hi Dan, did leave your bike lowered?
Hi, this was my partners bike. My bike is standard height
@@MOTODANS I lowered mine and I want to upgrade my front suspension but I don’t know if the fact that I lowered it would have something to do with upgrading it
@@B3nAn it shouldn't if lowered correctly. Be worth asking the company who is supplying you with the suspension
Great video mate, it's helped me a lot, very well done! Thank you for your efforts!!!
Thanks for watching Stewart
Hello
Great video, patient detail. I have recently bought a DR which is currently lowered “the easy way”. I am wanting to bring the bike back up to its normal height. Just checking, loosen front fork clamp bolts move forks back up the 40mm and tighten? Rear end, reposition bolt to lower hole? Set rear spring at 47mm?
Many Thanks
Roy
Hey Roy.
Yep loosen the fork clamps and slide them back up so they are flush with the top triple tree.
Yep the back is just swap the bolt and set the rear spring preload as needed for your weight.
@@MOTODANS
Many thanks for your help.
Thank you Dan!!
No worries
I got it done but removed the airbox and it was so easy to turn the spring and get a ruler in there to measure length.
Thanks for the video . What is your height?
I’m 5’8 and I’m considering buying the dr 650 I’m worried I might not be able to reach the ground
Hey Benan.
I am 5'6 roughly 30" inseam. This was my partners bike who is 5'4 ( she also had to have a lowered seat ) my own Dr650 I run at standard height, standard seat and with lowered pegs as I found it Abit cramped
Nice work, clear and easy to understand!
Thanks Steve! Have a good Christmas😁
For dumper rod holding: weld a 30mm nut to the end of a rod or a tube.
It will fit perfectly like the factory tool.
Good tip Sharon👍
well done video,,thanks there ,audio needs enhancing, , is it doable to just lower the rear?, as Im tall and 66 y ....but find it a wee too tall , too sling leg over easily ...but really love this bike, bog stock and run in at 3K , it does everything well , and just did a 120 k wet trip on gentle winding highway at many times too 140 + kph (90mph) chasing a guy on a DUCATI !what a bike c heers all !
Thanks. Yep you are correct regarding audio I had alot of issues with my early videos it should be sorted on all the current ones. Yes it is certainly doable however it may affect the handling of the bike. How ever lots of people fit lowering links and report no issues. This would be a better solution over a lowering link. Nice to see you are enjoying the bike!
@@MOTODANS yes thanks' for speedy reply! , will do the mod. as you have instructed ...Ta ...really as an all rounder/basic bullet proo
f /user friendly these bikes' are unbeatable IMO...Cheers! and ride well
Top of damper rod assembly is finished with 30mm.internal double hex socket. Easiest way to make up special holding-tool is to obtain a 30mm. nut from a 3/4"( or 20mm. metric) bolt. Then you need to attach an extension at least 450mm. long to reach down inside fork-tube. I just used the 30mm. bolt-head itself of a big long bridge bolt; and clamped a piece of bar between 2 nuts to act as a handle. That way, I could undo damper rod-bolt easily, and re-torque up correctly.
Good idea!
@@MOTODANS Your video was a great help in demystifying workshop manual instructions.
Thanks for your great video!
I've been looking for a video about how to do it for weeks. Thanks! I did learn a lot. You should try to show how to go on the rear shock completely too.
No worries, good luck it is fairly straight forward
Vidéo très bien faite et très bien expliquée. 👍👍👍👍
thanks for the content ... that seems very intimidating for a newb lol... do you want to do this if you lower ride height by using 1" longer lowering links? I guess what I'm asking is .. is it important to do all three adjustments (flip rear spring, lowering links and front spacer) or can you be conservative and just lengthen links?
Not sure on that. I would say probably not do this as well as lowering links. It isn't too hard to do and no parts are needed. If you are unsure on doing it yourself perhaps a bike shop could do it for you for a similar cost as what a set of lowering links cost? One downside of the lowering link it you are also changing the spring rate as you are putting more leverage onto the shock.
@@MOTODANSthanks ...I might work up to giving it a try. I would like to have more sure footing. Are you saying I should do just the rear spring adjust and front mod but not change lowering links? I appreciate the advice
Correct do one or the other
Great video, thank you. For the front, I still don't really understand what the difference is between the shortcut way and the correct way. With the shortcut, is it that your suspension travel is not reduced by the amount you lower, so the forks "bottom out" lower down, causing possible hitting the ground sooner?
Thanks. So the problem with doing the lowering the shortcut way both front and rear is you are decreasing your ground clearance but maintaining full suspension travel. Which in extreme circumstances can cause the bike, either the sump/frame to hit the ground or the wheels to hit the frame. Lowering the bike the correct way reduces your ground clearance and your suspension travel accordingly meaning your suspension bottoms out before anything makes contact where it shouldn't.
@@MOTODANS Thanks again. Now I know not only how, but why. Your videos are very educational.
No problem 👍 Thanks for watching
Thanks Mate for the video very informative now I can fix mine because they have been done the wrong Thanks Again 😊😊😊😊
Dude you are my savior! Been trying to get a Suzuki dealer to do this that has just recently taken on the suzuki brand and they were not sure on how to do it. If I give them this and they have the proper tools it shouldn't take them longer than 2 1/2 hours and that's putting in the new cogent springs, oil, and drop in damper cartridge. Is the whole procedure in the factory service manual? Mine is a 2020 model so I'm guessing mine and yours would be the exact same process
Hey Jack, yes it should be easy for them to do no longer than 2.5 probably less. Yes whole procedure is in the manual step by step. Also you are correct it is the same procedure for your bike as mine. Good luck let me know how you get on! Enjoy the upgrade.
Also if dealer is doing it just double check they have done it correctly when you get it back as they do like to take the easy way.
@@MOTODANS thanks alot brother
Can you post a video or pictures showing how the bike looks lowered? I'm all about function over form so long as it looks at least okish thanks again
Hey Jack no longer own this bike so can't make a video. Do you have an email address I can send you a pic?
@@MOTODANS jackdysart4u@gmail.com
Hi once again another interesting video thanks mate👍 when you were measuring the preload towards the end there was it the length of the spring that was 250mm? If I remove the collar could i just return the spring to whatever the original measurement was? Sorry that bit has me confused lol
Thanks :)
So the measurements in the manual for spring length ( preload ) are 238.5mm ( Stiffest ) - 253.5mm ( softest ). I set mine around the 250mm mark. You could just set the spring to the same measurement as long as you measured the actual spring and not the adjuster rings, as when you remove that bottom collar and switch it around you are essentially raising up the collar so the spring would be sitting higher from the bottom. so if you put the collars in the same position you would have alot more preload. Does that help? Also make sure you measure the spring with no weight on it either with the whole shock out of bike or with the rear wheel off the ground like i did.
Cheers
Dan
@@MOTODANS thanks mate, I'll play around with it today here's hoping I don't f%!k it up lol
No worries, need anymore help just let me know👍
@@MOTODANS thanks mate i think removing the dampening rod is gonna be interesting too lol
Yes it may be worth making up a tool if your struggling
Great video, lowering my pig today!
Awesome 👍
Hello,
Me again. I have adjusted my front forks back to standard height. With the back can you advise if I have to loosen the spring before changing the bolt back to the lower hole/setting?
Thank You
Hey Roy.
You shouldn't have to if you lift the back wheel off the ground and then support the weight of it you will be able to remove the bolt and change its position.
You would only have to loosen the spring if it was lowered the proper way and you needed to turn the collar around.
Ok thank you, I’ll give that go tomorrow
Cheers
Thanks Mate. Going to lower our new to us DR for my lady. That was very helpful. Wonder how much Suzuki will sting us for a lowered kick stand.
Nice one Rob. I'm not sure how much the stand is worth may be worth taking it to a fab shop and get them to cut it down if it's pricey.
@@MOTODANS I can cut and weld it as I suspect Suzuki NZ will charge well for it. LOL
Ordered mine today and it costs 120$ with taxes in quebec canada
That's not to bad and it gives you the option to return to factory
Good to know. Thanks for sharing mate.
Cheers Rick, Thanks for the Sub
Hey Dan. Great no-nonsense vids, thanks. Does that adjustment to the forks make them lighter? Or does moving the space from the top to the bottom even out the spring tension?
Thanks Lou, as far as i am aware it keeps the spring preload the same. I have ridden my bike both lowered and regular height and never noticed any differece
I used this to adjust my shock pre-load (was over tightened). This vid Mae it easy. Thanks again.
Glad it helped Lou 👍
great job explaining... worth the like and subscribe 👍🏻
Thanks Rob!
I live in New England (USA) and just put a deposit on a 2021 DR650 to be delivered in May
Nice one Rob hope you enjoy!
G’day Dan, what a great video, it has given me the knowledge and confidence to do my own lowering of my DR. I just have a couple of questions, did you use any washers anywhere on the dampening rod? And was there a washer on top of the spacer and the fork end nut?
Cheers mate 👍 Andrew from Tasmania
Hey Andrew, Sorry for the late reply. So the only thing you swap is the spacer the stock washer does not get moved and i added no washer to the dampening rod. So stock it goes spring, washer, spacer, cap after lowering the spacer get put on the dampening rod and up top it is spring, washer cap. Hope that is what you were after?
Cheers
Dan
@@MOTODANS I know this is a biggy but is there any chance of giving you a call? Are you on messenger?
Hey Andrew, I am not on facebook, You can contact me through instagram though if you have that. Do you have access to repair manual? If not i can send you that it has exploded parts diagrams of the forks lowered and standard
Great stuff, Moto Dans.
Cheers!
Very helpful, thanks.
No problem
So, damper rod can be screwed without special tool "T"?
Yes. Either with an impact gun like I did or you could make a tool to suit. I have even seen people use broom handles down the fork which was just enough to hold it. Just bear in mind if you use impact you can't torque the bolt.
@@MOTODANS thanks a lot!
How does it affect the kickstand?
You need a shorter kickstand Suzuki sells one that is for this purpose
Wow didn't know that
Thanks
Cheers Jim.
And how did you it was lowered the wrong way?
Show you in the video a quick way to check. Generally if the forks have been lowered through the triple trees then it has been done wrong. There is also a measurement if you jack the bike up. The rears you need to look at the collar on the bottom of the shock I show in the video which way it should be
@@MOTODANS Got it. Sorry, non native English speaker here, and your tone of voice is kind of hard
to understand. Thanks.
No problem 👍
I thought you were raising the bike up - but appears you left the rear in the lowered position…?
I am lowering the bike in this video the correct way it had previously been lowered the shortcut way
Ok, thanks - so the rear is now in the proper lowered position. Thanks! Great video!
Here I am hoping the dealer did it the short cut way because I’m 6’3” and trying to undo whatever the dealer did
Good chance they did! Both of my bikes were. I returned mine to stock and then sorted this one the proper way.
@@MOTODANS lol let’s hope so! Thanks for the response! Any idea if I can remove the top bolt off the fork tube while the fork is still on the bike? Maybe if I get the weight off the front end? Just trying to confirm the spacer is still up top.
Yep if you have the front wheel in the air you will be able to remove the top cap without much issue. Just make sure the top clamp isn't pinching it.
@@MOTODANS great news! The dealer or PO was a hack and didn’t do it properly! Spacer was right under the top cap! Brilliant. Didn’t have to worry about the cap getting stuck under the clamp, because whoever did the “lowering” just slid the forks up in the clamps. smh lol. Thanks so much for your help man.
No worries! Glad it worked out. It's amazing how many bikes will be going around the hacked way.
Excellent video
Poor volume
Thanks Dwight, Yep I had issue with some my my early videos all sorted on my recent ones 👍
Why would you lower a dr650?
My bike was lowered as I just feel generally more confident when I can get more foot to the ground. So I had the fun of riding a DR but without having to slide my arse too far off the seat to get a foot on the ground when stationary. 😉😂
If you could mutter and mumble just a little more, I truly wouldn't understand a word you're saying.
Thanks Mike
I'm American and I could hear him easily. Great, well made video!!