Nikon Z 50 after two years: 😡 annoying bugs + loved features ❤️
ฝัง
- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 5 ก.ค. 2024
- I've been using the Nikon Z 50 with its two kit lenses for 2 years now!
Here are the things that I love about it, and the ones that annoy me...
My Nikon Z 50 review:
• Nikon Z50 review: AF, ...
Nikon Z 50 Animal Eye AF review:
• Nikon Z50 Animal Eye A...
My Nikon Z 5 review:
• 📷Nikon Z5 real life re...
Tricks and must-know features for Nikon Z camera users:
• Must know TRICKS for N...
Download some of the Nikon Z50 Raw files here:
bit.ly/nikonz50download
0:00 Intro
0:37 Autofocus refuses to focus on subject
2:53 Real life AF examples
3:40 Lack of flipout screen
5:51 Compressed image on display
7:12 Timelapse program malfunction when long shutter speed
8:36 Self-timer settings forgotten
9:45 Kit lenses
10:26 Excellent dynamic range
11:00 Viewfinder available when recording via HDMI
12:06 Design / ergonomics
13:06 Separate photo / video mode
14:45 Outro
Straight to the point photo tutorials:
iwillbeyourphotoguide.com/blog/
Night photo tours in Budapest, Hungary:
hungaryphototours.com/
#nikonz50 - วิทยาศาสตร์และเทคโนโลยี
Download some of the Nikon Z50 Raw files here:
bit.ly/nikonz50download
Hi Miklós!
So... I've been playing with my Z50 and D3500... the bug for intervals also happened in my previous D3500 and I believe is when the buffer runs out, I overcome this by using the 180° rule... If I'm taking 1 frame every 8 seconds I set the shutter speed to 4 seconds. I was able to capture 300 photos for a 10s video without issues. Now... for an intervalometer there is a walkaround that I'm using since the D3500 did not have a port either, there's an android app called DSLR Control Plus, I got the APK, the version that works for both cameras is 4.0.1. I set the app to not update never! Using the OTG thingy that came with my Galaxy S8, I connect the camera using the usb port, and that's it! I hope you and others find this useful!
As far as I can tell, your interval problem is a user error, not a bug.
The interval (you set to 2 sec) is actually not the time between shots. What it is, is the time from the start of the first shot, to the start of the next shot.
If you use a shutter speed of 10 seconds, the interval time between the start of the first shot to the start of the next shot must be longer than 10 sec.
If you want a 2 sec gap between 10 sec exposures, set the interval timer to 12 sec. A 4 sec gap between 15 sec exposures, set the interval to 19 sec.
(The camera also have to use a little time to process the picture, so also don't set the interval to 10 sec on a 10 sec exposure. It won't work).
Hope this make sense and that you will have many happy hours taking many a time lapse.
Hans, thank you for pointing out that for me - I don't know how I could overlook this.
BUT...
I sware to you that there were occasions, when the program wouldn't even start, even if I put the "correct" interval time in.
Also, I did a quick check again:
- With 30 sec shutter speeds, at 32 sec intervals, it took photos 62 seconds apart - not good 🚫
- With 25 sec shutter speeds, at 27 sec intervals, it took photos 27 seconds apart - correct ✅
- With 10 sec shutter speeds, at 12 sec intervals, it took photos 12 seconds apart - correct ✅
Seems like it has somekind of problem with the 30 sec shutter speed - no idea what it is.
@@miklosmayerphoto I don't do timelapse (at all), so can't tell you why you experience the problem with the 30sec shutterspeed, but it sounds to me that if you are that serious about doing timelapse, you might want to invest in an intervalometer.
The Z50 is a good camera, for what it is, but it is not meant to do everything.
@@miklosmayerphoto I also did this mistake when I had Nikon D5100. For astro TLs, try the following,
1. Shoot in raw only (if you prefer editing them in Lightroom/LRTimelapse) else turn off high ISO NR, ADL, any bracket (if shooting in jpeg)
2. Manual Focus only
3. Your shutter should be single frame only
4. The interval = shutter speed (you can choose it anything, follow 400 rule) + time between frames (you can start with a gap of 1-2 secs, ideally it could be sub 1 second if you use fast cards)
5. In interval time shooting click on shoot now!
The following should work, let me know if you have any other quirks.
BTW nice video!
i just commented with the same explanation, a little bit longer and more confusing, but i havent checked if anyone did it before me... well at least the "problem" and the "solution" stayed the same hah
Cameras do strange math that will trip you up if you are unaware. Camera math is 15 sec = 16 and 30 sec = 32. So, as an example, if I was capturing something with a 15 sec exposure, I would calculate my interval as: 16 sec exp + 1 or 2 sec to save the photo + the number of seconds that you want between shots.
I LOVE your videos! Very useful! Keep up the great work!
Thank you Kevin, will do!
Every camera review of different cameras has issues. Thanks for sharing your experience with us. ❤❤❤
Thanks for another great video! Referring to the flip-down screen on the Z 50; I use a SmallRig bracket to make it possible to film myself in portrait or landscape, allowing you to use the selfie mode. You can also use a L bracket to attach to the tripod.
The only drawback to using the SmallRig bracket is that it covers the battery/SD Card door, but that’s only a minor inconvenience.
Thank you Richard for the tip! Others have also mentioned the SmallRig bracket, I didn't know about it.
Gracias por tus comentarios.
Thanks for making this Video. Appreciate your efforts on this.
Question - Can we expect a Z50 II (next version to Z50) soon? heard some rumors about it.
I haven't heard about Z 50 II rumours, but the Nikon Z 30 just came out:
th-cam.com/video/OI-lkB-lRbA/w-d-xo.html
Hi Miklos. Thanks for another great Z50 video! Really usefull. I used the interval timer and it worked fine at least up to 500 shots. I also bought an external intervallometer before realizing that there is no port for it on the Z50. :-( Annoying indeed. Other than that, I really like the camera. Small and light enough to take with me even when I don’t expect to use it.
Thank you Mireille! One commenter suggested to buy a bluetooth remote control - that indeed makes more sense, I also didn't think about it :)
For the intervalometer remote on the Z50, i know that the only solution is with a bluetooth remote, i think Nikon makes one, or with the app. I don't remember the specifics bluetooth options because i found it a bit too pricy for my use, the internal one does the job for the rare times i use it.
Hi Miklos,
Vijay here from India.
Currently am using d5600 n 200-500 for wildlife. Want to know how z50 with ftz adapter n same lens will work, am especially concerned about AF. I always use single Af point. What's your views?
Hello Miklós, thanks for the video! One question: why is there a flashing red lightning bolt in the lower right hand of the screen (and in general, so many flickering indicators)? It looks quite annoying, is there a way to disable it? Thanks in advance!
If you mean that flash icon, then it probably means that the camera would like to use flash in that situation. Basically it's a "low light conditions" alert...
I don't think you can disable it.
the interval problem is not only on z lineup, i had the same problem just a couple of days before with my d7200....the problem is that i thought the interval time would be the time from the end of one exposure to the start of the next exposure... i spent couple of moments searching through the internet and found someone mentioning that the interval time is the time from the start of one exposure to the start of the next exposure... i still dont know if that is actually how it works but it helped me... my issue was i had to take 13s exposure and i put 3s as the interval time, but after reading this i put 16s as the interval time (13s exposure + 3s delay in between the shots) and it suddenly worked... so next time when you or anyone tries doing interval timer shots, especially if you are doing longer exposures, put the interval time "your exposure time" + "the delay you want in between the shots"... lets say you want 10s exposures, and you want a shot every 10s, you would put 20s as your interval time
Thank you for a real life review and info about focus ;). Regarding selfie mode, well you can put a mirror on the horseshoe mount, clever and cheap solution, but you block this mount andcannot put anything there, so I guess you need a cage for more complex setups
Haha, that would look funny :) Nowadays I'm using my phone for that when taking photos of myself, but in video mode, it only allows the P mode to be used on the Nikon Z50.
Use hahnel capture pro for timelapse. Goes in hot shoe, and use the remote for timelapse
I have noticed the AF struggles a little more when you are at f 1.8- f2 etc. Also do you find yourself using auto ISO often? In your EVF captures it seems so. Do you find it works well with the Z50? I use it sometimes but not a lot
The struggles you refer to may be real, but the F/1.8~2 is not an AF thing. These Z cameras stop down aperture to f/5.6 in general, irrespective of what you set manually. This is to make AF easier, faster, as there is more depth of field and subject recognition becomes easier. Then when you fire a (still) shot, it opens or closes to your set value (or the value that auto exposure deems required).
(I am not associated with this video/channel.) Personally, I generally shoot "manual", fixed ISO, fixed white balance (with a Z 7ii) - an old photographer here. As I shoot "raw" only and white balance is just a number in the meta data of the raw file and whatever was used to shoot the image does not change the real image data, "fixed WB" is never an issue - and it removes computational overhead from the camera firing a shot. In a raw file, WB only tells your raw processing software how to open your images. As I always shot "manual" exposure, I have to say that I have recently discovered "highlight-weighted" exposure and if I use that leave the big Sekonic meter at home as you will have zero bleached out pixels - but your images may look underexposed by two to three stops and in Lightroom Classic (LrC) you need to lower the white point (in the Tone Curve) to address that and retain full exposure slider corrections.
I also shoot in Auto ISO many times, I really like how well it can be configured on the Nikons.
hello. thank you so much for your reviews. i’m on a budget. is the z50 a good camera for landscape and travel also? should I buy the z50 body only and get a different lense? or just get the z50 with the 2 lenses that go with it?
Yes, for landscape/travel the Nikon Z50 is a great choice! I recommend it with the 2 kit lenses, or with the new 18-140mm Z lens.
It is a great and handy camera for travel and street photography. I just got 2 weeks ago. A very smart camera indeed.
Great videos, thanks. Do you recommend the Z50 over its Canon counterpart (I think the R10)?
Both are very good: Nikon Z50 has more lens options + better build quality, but Canon R10's AF is way better.
Thank you.
I have a Z6 that when in AF Auto-mode I have programmed F1 to show a little white square in the middle. That square, I position on the target and press the focus button (with the AF-back-button). Then the square gets yellow and the camera focus. When I press F1 again I return to AF Automode, the camera focus on the face (and the eye).
I also use this when I shall change eye-focus from one person to another.
That's a smart workaround not to encounter this AF bug issue, thank you!
It sounds like u set the camera on autofocus single point or pinpoint. Is that correct?
My z6ii will do this same thing once in awhile and yes it seems to be when the subject is darker than the background. I’m hoping the rumored firmware update comes soon and fixes this bug. It’s not a deal breaker but does get frustrating when it happens.
I'm not sure if firmware updates will fix these, otherwise they would have done it already... But I agree it can be frustrating at times
How I miss Hungary! Please do a shoot through Pest's 8th District! Such great memories. The cemetery beyond it is such a great place to shoot, too!
That cemetery is indeed one of the most beautiful parks in Budapest :)
Regarding timelaps, i have figured it out. You probably use some mode like Noise reduction or dl. And 2s gap is not enough to process pic after sensor get heated up. Turn them all things that modify Picture off or extend pause time.
I also figured it out with the help of another commenter...
When taking test shots before starting the timelapse sequence, I put the camera into self-timer mode to avoid handshake.
And it's the self-timer that messed it up... It's so hilariously easy solution, that it hurts to write down :)
Hi Miklós! Only stumbled across this nice video today and want to let you know that I fully agree with all points made. But let me add one more thing I dislike: It is the absence of the focus bracketing function. Especially in autumn when I go out to shoot mushrooms I often miss this feature. Any other camera of the Z series has it but not the Z50. Should be an easy thing for Nikon to add it with a firmware update but it seems they just don't care. I have already written to Nikon saying hey, please, but to no avail. Already thought about buying the Z fc (would like to stick to DX for weight reasons), however my fears are the Z fc is not built for rough outdoor use. Anyway, keep going and as of today you got another subscriber. 😊 Greetings from Germany, Roland
Thank you so much! Well, I never thought of that, and you're quite right! Even the entry level Canons, like R10, has that focus stacking option.
What kind of hdmi recorder is that?
Hello, I'm planning to purchase this. Just wondering if the z50 can output clean 4k30 HDMI through a USB capture card?
Hi Ethan. Using OBS, I was able to record 4K video through an HDMI-USB stick, yes.
And a quick google search also confirmed it:
www.dpreview.com/forums/post/63649809
You can use exposure delay mode as the fix of self timer forgetten bug.
True, but you cannot make that take many photos, like the self-timer can.
As a portrait photographer I'm really looking forward in buying a z50 with a viltrox 85mm, could you possibly make a video on this specific setup or just express your opinion on it etc.?
I had that lens for a week last summer, and it worked really well! Maybe I'll make a review of it.
With the Z 50 it gives an equivalent focal length of 127 mm, which is perfect for headshots. Honestly, with 85 mm on a full-frame body, I have to go too close to the subject for headshots, so I prefer the 120-135mm range.
Anyways, it was working fine on the Z50, AF was fast.
@@miklosmayerphoto thank you so much 🙏🏻
Hi, why don’t you use snapbridge in the cases when you think you would need a flip-out screen?
Because when you're vlogging, you have enough stuff to care about (tripod, camera, sound), and using the phone adds another layer of difficulty.
Also, if you use the Snapbridge app for video, the settings are limited.
I agree with you. I love my Z50 (and my Z6 II), but the Z50 has a lot of trouble focusing in dim light. I was trying to take pictures of my nieces indoors, and the camera would just not focus on their faces. I had to use the manual focus ring and use focus peaking to get sharp shots. But in other aspects, the camera is very good.
Maybe try to update the firmware, there has been quite much improvement in that with version 2.2. Of course, still far from perfect...
And also, there's a Menu setting, a7, Low-light AF, turn that on.
But even with these set up, I can still easily imagine that you had to use manual focus.
@@miklosmayerphoto -- Thanks. I have the latest firmware. But I will look to see if I have the Low-light AF turned on.
@@cameraz99 how does it work now?
@@Dhruvarorax -- It works much better in Single AF mode, but much worse in Continuous AF mode.
I recently upgraded from an old D40x to the Z50, and I'm having the same frustrations. Firmware 2.20 is better, but still not as good as my old D40. In bright light it's not bad, but in dim light (if I need ISO 4000 or higher) AF simply does not work at all. I have to manually focus. I've even found sometimes that AF will lock (green box + beep) even when the image under the AF point in completely blurry. WTF, Nikon?
Would you recommend the Sony zv e10 or the Nikon z50 for photography and videography
Z50 - photo
Zv e10 - video
I'm not good enough to be considered an amateur, and I thought the bright background was interfering with the af. Sheesh, another expert.
Very interesting to know aboıut this timelapse bug. My z6 does not have such a problem.
To be honest, sometimes it appears (when I would need it), and sometimes it's gone: when I'm indoors, trying to replicate the problem :))
The self timer behavior is by design. There is another feature that you can use instead: exposure delay mode. The purpose if this timer is made for what you actually want to achieve. And the camera doesn't discard the setting after going to idle mode. I have this feature in configured in my menu and in the i menu options for easy access to it.
Sure, I could use the exposure delay, but that cannot take a series of shots.
The reason I don't understand this is that only Nikon does this annoyingly, all the other brands "stick" to the self-timer setting when turned off / on (Fuji maybe one exception).
@@miklosmayerphoto I used to own an X-T30 and this camera did not retain the timer delay setting either. You could combine exposure delay and interval timer shooting if you need more than one exposure. Or simply press the shutter for each exposure you need (with exposure delay). The latter is what I do and that works fine for me.
@@pascalhibon7928 Yes, Fujis do the same way :)
To me, it still doesn't make sense - once I set the camera into timer mode, why does it forget it once it goes to idle (after 2mins)? I cannot see any logical reason for that.
Not a Nikon Z issue, but entry level Nikon DSLRs forget self-timer even after a single exposure! Not kidding, you have to activate self-timer from shot to shot on Nikon D3xxx series...
Of course, if you know this and pay attention while shooting, you can easily get over that. But it's just some small and annoying bug that Nikon people thought it was a good idea...
From the settings on the screen, I see that the “End Time” setting at the bottom is just 3-minutes after the Start Time. Maybe it stopped because it came to the timed-End rather than the series-End?
Will it do the same if you set the end time to maybe a few hours after start time? Just an idea.
@@miklosmayerphoto It kind of makes sense from a certain point of view--if someone's using self timer, they don't need the shot Right Now, so it's better to inadvertently take a photo than inadvertently use the self-timer and miss the shot (if someone forgets to unset the self-timer for some reason).
Hey, I have the Z5. I thought I saw on one of your videos how to change the dial for shutter and aperture. I could be wrong. But anyway, I want to change my shutter speed with the back dial, and the aperture with the front dial. How can I reverse that, or is it possible? Thanks.
You certainly can on the Z50 as well!
Custom Setting Menu - Controls - f4 Customize command dials - Change main/sub - Exposure setting On or Off, as you wish. This swaps the two main dial in terms of aperture/shutter speed in Manual mode.
@miklosmayerphoto I knew I could. I had forgot how to find it. Thank you.
love the camera , love the system but bad build- after a year that I haven't used it , took it out for a run, now its nolonger working the monitor ribbon broke - not covered under warranty. might have been a fluke but , none
the less again great camera and system
Nice explanation
Have you test the performance between the z50 vs zfc?
No, I haven't
I'm a Student from India studing Computer Science & Design (CSD) who is a beginner in photography and I'm confused on buying my first own camera.
I was thinking about getting the nikon D5600 with dual lens kit (AF-P DX NIKKOR 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G VR and AF-P DX NIKKOR 70-300mm f/4.5-6.3G ED) + a AF-S NIKKOR 50mm f/1.8G lens. So it comes around $1025.
I came across reviews of Z50 and impressed on the camera after seeing your review on TH-cam. I can get a Nikon Z50 with dual lens kits for $1200. I can't get a 50mm prime in this case. My budget was $1100. But i can save a lil more in few months. I already some accesories like a tripod, decent flash, SD cards.
I'm confused on which system to enter - DSLR or Mirrorless. What do u suggest or is there any other camera you would suggest me?
I would not buy DSLR cameras anymore - the future is definitely mirrorless.
DSLRs have advantages but in AF, they cannot compete with today's Eye AF technology.
Hi, very good video, thanks.
remote control with SnapBridge sw on your mobile phone.
I have had my Z50 for 2 years also and overall I am quite happy with it. I normally have the FTZ adapter with my Sigma 105mm macro lens on it. This has worked great and been very happy with the pictures I have gotten from this combination. I don't do video, which covers a lot of your complaints, but I do have one gripe. I get more color noise on the Z50 than any other camera I have ever owned. My main camera at the moment is a D7500. It has the same sensor and processor, one generation earlier, but gets essentially no color noise.
-
Joe, thank you for your insight!
One thing I recommend you check: I don't know which software you use, but with the recent versions of Lightroom Classic, the color noise slider is often set to 0, whereas in old LrC versions it was set to 25.
So it can be that your photos with D7500 have a mild color noise reduction applied, whereas your Z 50 photos have zero.
Maybe that's causing the issue - it's worth having a look.
Pushing the color noise slider up really effective removes color noise without softening the photo.
It is doubtless that the Nikon D7200 has the best Image sensor after DXO rating... The NIkon Z50 is much better than the Nikon d7200 and with less noise. After DXO the Nikon D7500 is much worse than the Nikon D7200 ...
change the distance, sometimes is not good to be so close with persons, or change the shoting mode, the camera has so many modes all types, there is no bugs with me at all, all works great
I found this usually connects to bad lighting - if the subject is close, and the lens set to infinity, and the background is bright and sharp already, it often refuses to refocus. With the firmware upgrade it got a bit better. Also, knowing that it does this helps :)
Nikon ASP-C is not included in the future road map. The end of the road for Z50. Only three lenses are manufactured. No Z60 mentioned.
There are dedicated APS-C lenses in the Nikon Z lineup, not to mention that Sigma and Viltrox also offer primes in this category. Same cannot be said about Canon RF lenses.
I think Nikon would be foolish to kill the APS-C lineup, they are just more focused on full-frame, because that's where the bigger money is.
Though the Z50 is 4 years old, it's still an extremely competitive camera, and holds up well with newer contenders like Canon R10. So even if Nikon made a new cropsensor mirrorless, the only thing they would be able to add is better AF and a faster speed, that's all.
nikon said they fixed the auto focus bug with firmware version 2.2 :( this is sad to learn that it is not fixed. Ive been debating on buying the z50. is this bug in the Zfc?
As far as I know, the Zfc is the same "inside" as the Z50.
Hey there, I just a released a video, testing the new firmware update for Nikon Z50: th-cam.com/video/BOBWkAW5ras/w-d-xo.html
There is a Small Rig attachment for this camera that allows you to mount to a tripod and still use the screen in the 180 degree flipped position - not ideal but it works fine. I think the Small Rig is like $40 or so.
Thank you for mentioning that. I looked it up and indeed it seems like a good solution for vlogging.
@@miklosmayerphoto Yep - it's perfect for vlogging if that's what you want to do with the camera - works like a charm :)
@@baronsilverton6504 @ Mikios Be warned...i have that attachment and you can't get to the battery door without taking it off. And since you can't power continuously, you might be waiting on a charge...or having to take it off to add a spare battery. But, YMMV...
@@qualitychap521 If your vlog is longer than an hour or so this could be a problem - that said, with the Z50 it is just understood that you need at least 2 batteries - battery life is one of its weaknesses - still for normal vlogging one battery usually would suffice and if you have two you just have to spend a couple minutes changing it out.
I did hear that there was a version of this small rig that gave access to the battery but I am not sure if this is true as I already had the other one and never looked into it.
@@baronsilverton6504 Agree. Use mine for streaming work calls. Need a good 6+ hours a day:). So I moved on to a ZV1 for that. Too bad I couldn’t use the Z50.
I am watching this video, 12 months after it aired. I would be interested how the recent upgrade addressed some if not all of the issues.
Tried, and not much changed - eyes are recognized from further away, but there are still missed shots occasionally, just like with the "old" firmware
Hey there, I just a released a video, testing the new firmware update for Nikon Z50: th-cam.com/video/BOBWkAW5ras/w-d-xo.html
See the Smallrig LCN2525 cage/plate. A friend of mine uses it to mount z50 on a tripod and see himself on the flipped down screen
Thanks for the tip!
I have this small rig plate and serves as L bracket. It prevents the rotation of camera about the tripod screw. Most of all see yourself. Nikon website sells this plate attached to small spider tripod as selfie kit option. There is no perfect machine. Performance of any machine you buy is related to cost. Nikon designed z50 with compromises.
At times when I try to fort us on a subject, all of a sudden the subject and background is magnified in the viewfinder greatly. Would you have an idea what causes this. I had turned the camera off and on and sometimes this works, then it will do this again. Any suggestions would be appreciated
Don't you, by chance, press the magnify+ button at the right part of the display?
@@miklosmayerphoto yes, that is why this happens, thank you for the reply
Have they fixed the autofocus bug with a firmware update yet?
Slightly, but not 100%
Szevasz Miklós. A Z50 valóban csak 300 képet tud produkálni amíg le nem merül az akku, vagy real life szituban esetleg többet is ki lehet húzni az akkuból?
Most visszanéztem egy Nemzeti Vágtás fotózásomat - egy majd 2 éves aksival kb. 480 képet és pár videót lőttem egy töltéssel. A képek nagy része sorozat volt, gyors záridővel, de bekapcsolt képstabival.
Érdemes egy tartalék aksit venni, és akkor egy napot kibírsz vele. És egy Powerbankkal lehet USB-n keresztül tölteni, amikor épp nem fotózol.
@@miklosmayerphoto Köszönöm a gyors választ!
Flip out screen?? Snapbridge 🤷🏾♂️
You could literally remote control the camera with your smartphone which is a very expensive feature in cinema cameras, given to you for free.
Also Ulanzi made an L Bracket that uncovered the battery door and you could offset the body. SmallRig bracket blocks the battery door.
Also a flip out screen is not good for event or crowd shooting at least in my experience of being bumped in crowds.
I get it that I can use my phone - but in snapbridge app you can only shoot video in P mode, a major drawback.
And also, it's one extra hassle - you cannot beat the simplicity of the flipout screen on the Canons
@@miklosmayerphoto You have a point regarding video with Snapbrdge. Are you sure it only allows P mode b/c Nikon website says if you press the P in video mode you can switch to M (manual).
However I can't agree with you on the flip out screen. The moment you add a cord it's obstructed, try to flip it hit cables or other things like the tripod base. I'd rather have tilt if I'm behind the camera. 🤷🏾♂️ The flip down screen means you can and should eliminate the tripod base plate. I know people complained about, but no one I've come across realizes how cheap it is to rig. I'm talking less than $5 to completely rig a Z50 and get a better experience with a flip down screen that doesn't leave you attached to that dumb baseplate.
Options (hot shoe mounting)
-Stabilizing hand grip.
.....Specifically the "Vello VB-2000 ActionPan Pro Stabilizing Action Grip/Handle" $30 solves the Z50 if mounted from the hot shoe.
-Square frame with 1/4" holes.
-Top down tripod.
-Hand grip w/ 1/4".
-Hand grip/straight bracket.
-Leica finger loop handgrip (generic cost .25¢)
-L-Bracket (slim)
-Monopod stick.
Leveler.
Flip down lcd is never obstructed by anything and you never have to keep a base plate on it. The basic square also doubles as a hand grip steady cam and you can put the base plate on that instead. When you're ready to go, if using a quick release on the hot shoe takes a snap to remove and you have all those holes for flashes, triggers, audio, mics, batteries, led lights, etc.
Don't you think the girls were in a deep shadow, against the excessive back light (contra liht)? Was the "assistant light" "on"?
The assistant light was on, but only activates in very low light, so it didn't activate here. Even if it had activated here, it wouldn't have made a difference, because it's not that strong to compete with daylight.
Yes, the girl was in shadow, but that shouldn't stop the camera from focusing on her eye.
Try the focus with the 2.4 firmware please!
Tried, and not much changed - eyes are recognized from further away, but there are still missed shots occasionally, just like with the "old" firmware
@@miklosmayerphoto thanks for the reply!! ❤️
Here it is, thanks for bringing this firmware into my attention:
th-cam.com/video/BOBWkAW5ras/w-d-xo.html
Does anyone know how to turn off auto ISO without having to go deep into the menu?
Press ISO button (and hold it pressed) and rotate the front dial. That will activate or de-activate the Auto ISO.
The forget self timer si not a bug but a feature. To avoid the user forget the camera is in self timer mode. It save me several times from mistakenly have to wait times up when i want to shoot right after idle or power on
There should be an option to allow the camera to remember. Going from a Nikon DSLR with it's physical control knob to selecting self-timer mode to having to screw around with menus every time the bloody Zed camera goes to sleep is annoying. They've dumbed down the Zed cameras a bit...
These cameras are very difficult to buy at the moment, with the Chip shortage etc!
OMG this is such an annoying thing about the focus on my z5. Same issues with the focus, latest firmware update does not solve this issue.
Hey Carlota, great to hear from you! ;) Hopefully it'll be fixed one day...
Some times not original lenses created such as annoying problem.
I no longer have a Z50, but I'm wondering, (not an insult) did you read the manual? Most of us probably don't read manuals, I do at least once.
Just seeing you struggle with Auto Area AF with a 3rd party lens (need native glass). The camera having some 7 different AF modes + sub AF modes and just letting the camera miss focus while it's clearly telling you to press "OK" 🤷🏾♂️ or you could hit Fn2 rotate the front dial for a suitable portrait AF mode.
I mean it's an entry level camera, what did you expect?, and it's telling you what to do to get focus right on the screen.
If I'm shooting a model portrait, even as far back as my D200 in 2006. My D300, D3s or DF, I never used or relied on Full Auto AF or 3D except for street and never had a focus hunting problem even on the old 18-55 kit lens which was Nikon worst lens in any light.
The D200 had group AF and you could bias closest subject or center AF in two group AF patterns similar to the D6.
I get what you're trying to show, but you're literally in the wrong AF mode and using a 3rd party lens with an adapter. Many people think eye AF and face detect is some magic trick quick fix to focusing, but at f1.8 you're going to miss focus even if you focus on 1 eye, b/c of the shallow DOF, maybe you won't at 127mm.
I just don't get why you don't just use "Wide area AF small" and put the box on her face. Eye AF isn't an advantage, it's a crutch.
The Auto Area AF with Eye AF is supposed to work even such conditions - it's called eye af because it's supposed to find the eyes. As the eyes are moving, continuous AF is the AF mode you should use - so I was using the correct AF mode.
Of course, I can always press OK (takes 2-3 seconds while you realize that "again the camera is doing it"), then the camera finds the face in 2 seconds, and then I have to quit the subject detection mode, which another 1 second extra.
Meanwhile Canon and Sony users took many sharp photos...
I can live with it, and recent firmware updates made it better. But it's a thing, other people also complained about it.
I also shot many portraits with my Canon DSLRs back in those days... And when using very wide aperture I sometimes ended up with slightly out-of-focus photos. So an effectively working Eye AF is a huge plus.
BTW, I was using a third party lens, but without an adapter - that Viltrox 85mm lens has a dedicated Nikon Z mount, and is focusing as well as Nikon lenses.
Plus this focusing issue comes out with native Nikon lenses as well.
@@miklosmayerphoto You have the camera, I sold mine. At the very bottom I'm going to point out, from NIKON themselves AF system where you possibly went wrong. But you may want to read the rest, b/c you're not the only person who had these problems and I know that I fixed a similar issue before any firmware updates were released.
A few others had the same issue w/that lens, updated, proper min. focus dist. back in 21". Using a Z5 in FX mode, better in DX mode. Once the "eye pupil" was lighter, it focused, in your case and there's.
Never said, it (the problem) was exclusive to 3rd party lenses, but equiv. native Z lenses AF better on Z cams.
I've seen ppl w/this prob. over the yrs. With Z cams, yall (the couple ppl I've seen complain about this) don't have "AF Illuminator On" or use Low-Light AF mode. The "pupil" being dark is more an issue than the background being bright.
If the AF is not detecting, (eye or otherwise) it means you're beyond the LV range for the area of the subject(s) or too close. You might think, but I'm outside in daylight. You're outside in flat dark shade, no dapple light, or fill, bg likely hitting +20 LV in spots at F1.8
I agree with you, it should focus better in that situation. Still, it's an entry level camera and you don't have a reflector or fill card. (upsale tactic)
I had my Z50 early on, same problem. Went out with a guy who had a Z6, same issue. I'd been so used to turning off AF illuminator in all my cameras the moment I bought them for the last 20yrs.
Turned it back on, never had that problem again even inside of min. focus distance, the box would still detect. Also used in a pitch black room with only moon light on the Z50. I always had dapple light or fill, w/back light, so I can't speak specifically to using a flat shadow w/back light (her pupils are dark until she turns to the light, pupil opens, focus).
I only suggested the box, b/c you're shooting static portraits. It's an entry level camera and even with it's AF problem, still focuses faster than a $30k Hasselblad H6D. Single point AF still exist and the Z50 has pin point AF.
*NIKON*
Nikon hides things which is a bit misleading, but I'll point them out.
***Nikon website
Autofocus System
Hybrid phase-detection/contrast AF >>>>**with AF assist**>ISO 100f/2.0
Bro, how to fix my problem z50 either no lens is attached 😢 please help me
What's exactly the problem you have?
@@miklosmayerphoto when I cleaned the Nikon Z50 lens, then turned the camera back on... but what was written on the screen was "no lens installed, or the lens installed is a non-CPU lens... and after that I couldn't take photos.. 😩
is the camera good or bad?
I would definitely buy it again, overall I really like it.
Szia Miklós!
Hasznos videó.
Én egyelőre egy D600-at használok (csak nézegetem hogy mi legyen majd az utód), anno ahhoz találtam ezt th-cam.com/video/P_frKSGZg3Y/w-d-xo.html a videót az interval menüről. A kis csavaros eszű aki megcsinálta a Nikon-nál ezt a feature-t úgy csinálta meg, hogy az Interval az magában foglalja az expozíciós időt is. A lényeg az (ahogy mondja a videóban is), hogy az Interval időt a shutter speednél többre kell állítani a megfelelő működéshez. Tehát esetedben, mondjuk 10+s Interval kéne a 10s shutter speedhez. Amúgy a bemutatott példáddal kis is jön a kerekitve 20 kép => 2*99/10=19.8.
Az mondjuk elég gáz, hogy nem lehet távkioldó kábelt csatlakoztatni hozzá, mindenesetre a Snapbringe app-pal meg a Nikon féle bluetooth kontrollerrel (ML-L7) lehet távvezérelni elvileg.
Illetve, annyi kérdésem lenne, hogy mikor bugzik az autofocus azt manuális átfókuszálással ki lehet rántani ebből az állapotból, relative gyorsan?
Szia István!
A magyar csatornámon is fent van ez a videó, ha gondolod, nézd majd meg (bár hasonló a tartalom).
Arrra én is rájöttem azóta, hogy az interval idő magában foglalja a záridőt, végülis így a logikusabb.
Viszont közben a magyar videó alá valaki bekommentelte a megoldást, hogy sokszor azért nem indult el nekem a timelapse program, mert időzítős módban voltam (pl. 2 mp késleltetés), és ilyenkor nem engedi a timelapse programot elindulni...
A kérdésedre válaszolva: ha van az AF bug, akkor legegyszerűbb rábökni a kijelzőre, és aktiválni az adott részt fókuszálásra.
You can't hear video's on youtube.
For the focus you have to zoom out
I was using a prime lens, so it was not an option.
Is this a good Camera for a beginner?
Yes, definitely. Regardless of its small bugs, it's very easy and intuitive to use.
Just use AF-A for eye/face detection. I've never encountered any focusing issue in AF-A mode, maybe I'm just lucky, but I believe that this is the way it supposed to be done.
This focusing issue comes out quite rare, only in certain circumstances. AF-A mode is just a mixture of AF-S and AF-C, so I don't think it matters.
Did firmware 2.2 bring eye autofocus in videos like in nikon zfc?
Nikon zfc and z50 are similar cameras in different bodies still the zfc has a better autofocusing system. Why NIKON whyyyy?😢
I just checked it on my Z50, and in video it only has face tracking AF, not eye tracking AF. I have FW 2.2.
Are you sure that the Z fc has eye AF in video?
@@miklosmayerphoto Thanks for checking! Ya the zfc has eye AF in video (If I'm correct for both animal & human faces). I can't paste links here since YT deletes comments with links. You can check out DP review or any other channel that has covered zfc (like Ricci Talks). I was heartbroken to see the zfc has a better AF performance when compared to z50 because the zfc came out like a few months after I bought the z50. I hope future firmware updates bring z50 at par with zfc.
As compared to A6400 / A6600, how good is this camera for Streets, Portraits & short videos ?
Thinking of getting Z50 with Viltrox 23mm F1.4
The Sonys have the advantage in their lens mount: you can have loads of quality third-party manufactured lenses, like from Tamron, Sigma that are designed for the APS-C sensor. Unfortunately, as of now, Nikon only has 3 crop-sensor (DX) lenses.
Im looking at getting a mirrorless camera but torn between 6400 and the z50 both look very good !
Not sure if i should stay nikon as i have 3 f mount lenses i can use with the FTZ converter
Thank you for your review and sharing your experience with Z50. Agreed, it is a very good camera and a much affordable price for beginners.
You're very welcome!
The autofocus issue happens because of using other lenses rather than the native lenses I hope.
Unfortunately it happens with the native Nikon Z lenses as well.
The only thing that really bugs me about my Z50 is that I use the viewfinder quite a lot and if I have forgotten to turn off touch controls, my nose hits the screen and zooms in when I don't want it to, a royal pain in the butt!
This would be the same with every camera that has touch control
I do so appreciate your candid and real comments about the Z50. While I have not yet purchase one, I am studying everyone's comments along with yours to see how I can benefit from the strengths your pointed out.
With regard to the focusing techniques, I found this recent video from Nikon user Henry Hudson demonstrating his techniques for having really good results with the entire series of Z camera, featuring the Z50 starting at the 8 minute mark. It may be useful to you.
th-cam.com/video/BzWar2vNhTw/w-d-xo.html
Thank you JJ!
The autofocus is the biggest flaw of this camera, and i feel the screen is not bright enough for taking photos in a sunny day, im waiting for the rumored mark 2.
I found that the firmware update improved AF quite much. Of course, still not as good as Sony
@@miklosmayerphotohow much worse do you think it is compared it's sony rival, like the a6400 or a6600? For me the z50 AF for now is quite reliable and snappy, but then again it's my first camera after I decided to not go with Sony.
I will subrcibe if you tell me, im about to buy my very first camera, and Im not able to decide if to buy a Z5 a Z50 or D850? what do you recomend?
That's like asking if I should buy BMW 3 or 5 or 7 series, without telling any background info. If you give information about your budget, what your priorities are, what you will need for, I can help
Ok here we go! I just want to buy a camera for fun, interested on macro or street photography, maybe nightscape photography and occasionally portraits! I'm going to buy it second hand, so the budget is not important l, I can buy the D850 for 1800 USD and the Z5 with 24-200 for 1600 USD, also the full kit of Z50 for 1200 USD, but I just want to take pictures! Good pictures ! I never have a camera before but I have learn a lot of photography, and now I need my first camera! So this is why I'm asking for this 3 cameras!
Nooooooooo, please don't ask them to destroy cameras with that flip out screen. For stills shooter it is annoying. I know around 7 wildlife/nature photographers that go to same places and none of them says flipout instead of tilt is a good idea. Just please, don't. Don't let them destroy the proper camera for us. I beg you! I will subscribe if you don't mention it again :D
I totally get you! At 4:55 I say the exact same thing: when I'm behind the camera and taking photos, I prefer this kind of mechanism over the flipout mechanism. It's indeed easier (and faster) to use, and levelling the shot is also easier.
Yeah I get annoyed with Hybrid shooters wanting a flip out screens; just weakens the design. Tilt screen like on my old D750 & Z5 is the best!
Anyone facing heating issue on nikon z50?
Not that I know of
There is a Bluetooth remote control, buy it from China then it is good for 100m. The focusing with the magnification glass works always and is accurate! FN2 will work for that. Focusing with bright background or under dim light is only possible when you switch off the lifeview... And I can prove that to 100%. Problem solved... And then the focusing is awesome. First learn to use a camera before you do a TH-cam. For sure the Autofocussing is too slowly. And only after the last update the Autofocusing is working! Before the Autofocus system was a catastrophe.
No, on Canons, Sonys, you don't have to turn off live preview, even with bright background... So why should I do it on a Nikon?
Of course, everything has a workaround, but they can still be annoying, especially if you see that other brands do it effortlessly.
It supports wifi remote controller
Thanks! I haven't tried that yet
Definitely could've been avoided if you just used Snapbridge.
The biggest drawback of the z50 is the maximum shutter speed on video 1 \ 2000! There is no way to shoot video during the day on an open aperture even at 3.5!
In general, you should not be using that fast shutter speeds anyway when shooting a video, because it will have a strange, "choppy" feeling and not smoothly flowing. With video, shutter speed should be 2x or max 4x the frame rate for a nice footage. For example, with 24 fps, 1/50, or 1/100.
In broad sunlight that's hard to achieve, expecially with wide aperture, that's why videographers often use ND filters.
@@miklosmayerphoto ,Thank you, I know this information that you need to use nd filters. My problem is different - it turns out that other users have a shutter speed of 1 \ 4000 in video mode, but I have 1 \ 2000 flashing and it doesn’t get shorter. Where can I find the settings on Nikon z50 so that in aperture mode the shutter speed works automatically up to 1 \ 4000?
@@MsDubovich I don't think you can go shorter than that, there's no setting for it.
the only way around this is to stop down the lens
@@miklosmayerphoto, This situation causes resentment, there are no such restrictions on other cameras in this price range. And spending time on nd filters is not mine, I like photography more.
@@MsDubovich The solution to this problem is not faster shutter speeds, but ND filters. You don't need an expensive one.
Maybe go with Sony or Canon cameras.
Every camera has annoying bugs, I can immediately start listing that for Sony and Canon as well :)
subscribed and sorry did not sub earlier
Thanks :)
Time lapse, use Snapbridge 🤣
Also someone else already corrected your time lapse problem in the comments. But yeah you do have remote control over your camera just use your smartphone.
Report the bugs to nikon, maybe they don't know. If they know maybe will fix issues in a new firmware
Use your phone as the remote
True, but many things not available through the app. Moreover, with the newest iOS, the app doesn't even launch...
Nikon Z50 is not fault, this is lowest price Mirrloless smallest compact and cheap is why not pro, this is normal half-pro , bad focus? Why? just yourself rotate focus fit it is better photo quality or future will do upgrade new version better focus. Depends what you wasn’t safe and terms before read it “shockproof” and etc ! :)
Z50 is much better than z5.
Z5 autofocusing is worst
Hello. I will like to help to fix the flipdown screen issue. You have to go to configuration menu then tap self-portrait and switch from on to off. That will allow you to have all control of the bottoms and screen in self-portrait mode.
Oh, thanks for the tip! I didn't realize that! But in this case the 2 second delay also gets turned off, right?
@@miklosmayerphoto You're very welcome. ¡Yeah! The 2 second delay goes off also.
Nikon's firmware is garbage.I've been trying to update the 2.20 firmware,it's of no use.
Nikon is doing everything possible to quickly cease to exist.
A sure way to forever FIX this auto-focus issue.:
Take the camera to the roof of a 12 story building.
Make sure there is no danger of hitting anyone before you TOSS IT!
After it hits the ground, you will discover, that camera will NEVER have this issue again.
Then go buy a Sony or a Canon. Good luck!