6.7L Powerstroke Failures, Oil Weight & 2020 Upgraded Pistons
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- เผยแพร่เมื่อ 27 ก.พ. 2020
- These engines have been around long enough some trends are being seen for failures. What makes a bone stock 6.7L Powerstroke fail? Can you prevent it or is it inevitable? And what’s up with the 2020 Powerstroke pistons and rods? Cass from Choate Engineering tells us about it on this episode!
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Been running 15/40 rotella since first oil change on new f450, 400,000 miles still runs as strong as it did when I first bought the truck, no problems at all.. and I use it as a hotshot truck 2017 model
I used rotella up until 94k. Amsoil 5w/40 since. Basically stopped wearing (numerically, anyway) 17 was a good year, i think 14 was also a good year as *knocks on wood* I’m 220k in and no problems except a new vacuum pump gasket.
I love my 19 Powerstroke! Bought it new, Only 47,800 miles on her, but that engine is such a fine machine-100% stock. I am adamant about no more than 5000 miles oil changes with only Shell Rotella T6 5w40 full synthetic. I think that most guys that love the 7.3 have not ever experienced pulling with a 6.7 and it’s exhaust brake (and good beefy brakes). Not only do you have great power on the skinny pedal, but great stopping power as well. And the sound of her when she’s towing, and pulling a long hill with turbo around 15lbs of boost with cruise set at 67 mph, stays in 6th gear, using zero EGR (DEF only) it’s just a beautiful sound and experience! :)
You still running t6 I can't find any
I'm in the same boat. Drove my 03 7.3 until 2019 when I bought my 6.7 and finally sold my 7.3. Night and day difference in every way. I have 55K and it just started knocking and lost power. I immediately thought I lost an injector but the dealer scanned and contribution tests showed no compression in cylinder 5 sooooo, a bearing gave out somehow. I was running T6 and very meticulous with everything. I guess it can happen but we have to deal with it.
Shen Fly yes I bought 25 gallons in 2021 so I have enough for a couple years or more between my three trucks
Steps to having a long lasting newer diesel 1)Buy a diesel 2)delete it 3) enjoy😎
Agree
Kinda why I want to buy used, they are great if those steps are done right away
Yup got a 2019 I love it deleted
@@Firelord360 99.9% of the times ya dont know what the tunes are, how hard they pushed it in the high rpms not watching egts so no not the best option
@@htownsfinest87 that is with anything used but I will take my chances
After hearing this it seems that engine block heaters are pretty useful in +0 temps. The warmer your oil, the faster it can circulate through the block at a cold start.
I own a 2015 f250 lariat 4wd w/6.7 and I have put 220K miles on it since I bought it new, The only problems I had was with ME running too much additive in the fuel, I boosted the cetane levels too high trying to keep my injectors clean and it melted the core of the DPF. With nowhere to go, the exhaust blew the intercooler boot. I had the boot replaced with an aftermarket billet part and boot and i had the DPF straight piped and the DEF disabled for $1250. I drove it for a year with the low coolant warning not knowing there are two sep radiators and when the boot blew it took the charge air cooler with it. I replaced it with a mishimoto intercooler and its been fine ever since costing $1200. Tunes are not wild but faster and more powerful than stock., Radiator popped a hole at 65K. Air conditioner fan blower dropped at 200k and cost $1100, radiator ran $1500
This is why I’m hesitant to go to a modern diesel. I switched to SCd gas in my Tundra w/zero issues in 110k miles. Despite 650 RW torque, it Doesn’t have the pulling potential of a diesel but it’s been more reliable than my older Duramax. Despite the aluminum Ford HDs being the lightest in class (1k lbs lighter than GM or Ram), modern diesel HDs are still more complicated and heavier than gas equivalent like the HD Godzilla gas 7.3. I love diesels and in stock form they make incredible power - much more than my ‘02 Duramax, but I hear more guys having expensive problems with the EGR, turbos, DPFs, and associated parts like CP4s after laying out $70k or more.
Reading that stressed me out lol. Hope it’s still going strong for you.
You guys should talk to some of the 2.8 canyon/colorado owners who have had engine failure. Both tuned and stock. Injector failure on a few (apparently fixed with newer injectors) or the more destructive one, piston/wrist pin failure completely destroying the cylinder it dies in. Gm has replaced the non tuned ones, tuned guys are told to pound dirt. Despite the somewhat sizeable number of failures, nothing by gm has been mentioned as far as poor metallurgy or underlying causes causing these failures.
Would the offroad tuning that yall are running have something to due with that???. I know from experience that timing advance puts a hurtin on 6.4and 6.0s
My dealer in Texas told me to run 15w40 in my 6.7 . Do I need to change to 5 w40 ? Truck currently has 105k on it . Thanks for your opinion.
So what oil weight are we supposed to use?
I disagree with the theory of thick oil causing spun bearing. My 2012 6.7 was ran with 10w30 from new to 120k, and 5w40 synthetic from 120k up to 273,000 when the main bearing spun and crankshaft snapped at the 1/5 rod journal. This engine was maticulously maintained, yet still failed. I installed a 2017 short block to fix it with 2015 turbo setup. I've also installed an oil priming system so the oil system is primed to 70psi until the engine is started and running.
How and what kind of oil priming system did you use ?
Was waiting to hear the reason for the friction weld. Assume (yea i know) that it relates thermal efficiency, or spray erosion.
About the emissions, the egr, why not recirc exhaust from after the dpf? Wouldn't it be much cleaner?
Please I have a 2019 F550 6.7 with a bad engine. Can I replace this engine with a 2020 6.7 without any issues or modifications?
I have a very nice 2016 F-350, 6.7 runs with a distinct tap.Wish I could find someone in Denver area to fix it.
Kinda bummed that I listened to this entire thing and learned just to use the oil in the manual. Seemed more of a sales pitch than a self-help podcast. No disrespect but kinda a bait and switch here guys.
When he speaks of no need of tongue on the bearing he sighs right away so he’s either concerned or right out lying about it , I have observed bearings loose crash tension over time and not spin because the little bit of stability that tongue offers , inadequate oil cooler size on engine and transmission are also a concern on heavyweight duty usage .
Use shell rotella
I run 15w40 Rotella T6 here in Arizona. Hard to find a 5w40 T6 locally.
@@robertgator8416 why
Thank god I still got my 2008 6.4
Are use Amsoil 5W-30 in my 91.5 dodge and it does real well now I know my truck is even before the dinosaur age compared to these new ones I mean my truck is so outdated you can’t even see it on the calendar anyway but there’s one thing that doesn’t change that’s the type of oil you can use and oil filtration also air filtration on my truck. I’m running a Donaldson Oil filter bypass filter which filters down to 1 1/2 to 2 micron that would help a lot. Also my air filter, Donaldson DBA 5202. That’s a nano fiber, technology air filter. My oil filters are also nano fiber so that should greatly help your situation. My old Dodge has 520,000+ miles on it I go out in the dead of winter turn the key on and it says way to start you know the story and that engine doesn’t turn over three times and it starts right now anyway, I think the new power stroke engine has huge potential. This is six in a row.Jim from Kennerdell, Pennsylvania
2011 f350 6.7 109000 low compession 1&5 cylinder-24000 new engine? Trade truck and get a newer mod el or what does the Ford replacement motor have a updated engine and turbo?
Was thinking same thing. Call choate and ask them. If your gonna keep in long time. Think about swapping in new engine
I'll take my old 1999 7.3 not a powerhouse but no slouch 223000 mls on it just changed the turbo had the compresstion checked good 18mpg
Hard to break anything when it just makes enough power to move itself
Seroha guju facts
Better yet 2004.5 to 2008 Duramax better mpg and power and they pull for just as many miles. FYI. no trans issues.
Do yourself a favor and dont drive a new one then, or you’ll no longer be content with the 99. My Dad has a construction company has a 99 7.3 4:10 gearing. Towing with that verses the brand new 2021 f350 is night and day. No body employees, myself or my dad want to tow with the 99. Just too slow and has no exhaust brake.
@@Mikefngarage ya till you break the crank on the #1 journal no thanks.
So would you recommend 5w40 or 10w30 motocraft? I tow a 14k fither I always used motocraft 10w30, because that's what the oil cap seys
0W 40
Yes! I use it in my Deere skidsteer & my Duramax 2002 LBY. Excellent.
Will a amsoil bypass filter work with the new variable displacement oil pump? or cause oil pressure problems and or set off a light?
great question!
Aren’t all oil filters bypass capable under low flow conditions? I’m pretty sure they are.
Only if you switch from Charmin, don't use that Costco stuff. And besure to wash!
I installed a amsoil bypass filter on my truck with the variable displacement pump a yr ago and now have 22k on the truck much of it towing. Works great oil stays very clean. Oil pressure and flow was not affected at all hot or cold environments. The variable pump keeps the oil pressure in the middle of the safe range at all temps and loads.
You also need to change out the motorcraft spark plugs with autolite plugs. My mechanic changed mine and it runs smoother.
Here’s how to bulletproof the 6.7: delete egr, delete DPF, add sinister diesel coolant filter kit, s&s cp4 disaster kit, smelding diesel CCV delete kit, and just for giggles pusher cold air intake/intercooler/manifold pipes 😁
Whats the point of the coolant filter ?
It dose more that it's enough power and 18MPG not bad
This is six in a row Jim again I think of a person put a Egr block off plate right where a picks up the exhaust and leave everything else intact so that way when the little goons from the EPA or somebody like that checks out your truck they don’t see that you removed anything. I don’t know if you can fool your truck without some kind of computer programming course everything Voids the warranty, so I got to be real careful about that but like I said, use that good quality bypass filter I think that will help you a lot and a good quality synthetic oil
So will running 15w40 in the winter kill my 2019 6.7?
What are your winters like? Colder it gets the more you want a 5w40. Been running Rotella T6 in my 17 since 5k miles. If you’re wanting to keep your truck for years and hundreds of thousands of miles, and your winters are cold. Stick to a 5w40.
Not in S FLA, the usual low is above 80° in winter. Everyone runs 15w40 in FLA because of the temps.
Also according whit the experts technicians can be upgraded whit a bigger turbo up to 600hp on a very but very small budget compared whit the new truck
Dam diesel I love you n parts
Great information because my new 2021 6.7 is a beast stock. I won’t delete till the warranty is up but do you feel that deleting a Powerstroke will help with Longevity if you don’t go crazy with horse power?
You probably won’t delete at all then. Good luck finding a company that will write tunes for it and offer deleted kits. EPA is all over those companies right now.
Absolutely delete it. ASAP. Get eBay parts for block off and you may have to have someone cut the exhaust flanges and weld a straight pipe for you. Get a tuner off eBay or Craigslist has ppl that sell new tuners. I love my h&m. 310k miles on my 6.7.
I have never seen 0w-40 in stores. I think the ford manual specifies that weight for super cold climates.
Just like the 6.4 Hemi, I can only buy it at the dealership.
John Deere makes a really good 0w40. I've been using it since 2011 in my 6.7 powerstroke. 195,000 miles no problems yet.
There are a lot of brands with a 0w-40 diesel specific oil on the market
Plenty at walmart ,mobile1 0w40
Kenzie Palczewski just in cold weather or anywhere?
2017 thats fully deleted and I get over 20mpg when I check. Mixed driving lifted with 35s and a heavy foot.
Does the 2020 Duramax run a steel piston?
Not yet. Ford is leading on this front. For now...
Modern emmissions on diesels are insane money pits. Only buy a new diesel if you absolutely need the towing capacity. Other than that get the 7.3. Pretty sure it can tow 22,000 lbs configured properly. Most people are not towing that much.
Just delete it
what should someone expect to get out of a stock 6.7 that is properly maintained
It depends on how the vehicles being used, does it idle long periods of time? Is it only used for towing or recreational use etc? It all depends on how you use the truck, if you tell me how you use the vehicle I can definitely give you a rough estimate with expected outcomes, also what year 6.7 Do you have?
My 2012 has 260k miles replaced turbo at 190k miles replaced ac compressor at 220k miles these are the only issues besides a fan clutch that diesel shop left a wrag under hood when replaced the turbo so that was a freebie not bad a turbo that last 200k miles pretty much and the power is amazing from truck since day 1 had it deleted and tied since 100k miles and it’s driven pretty damn hard lifted on 38” tires
@@madison69 2013 350 king ranch. Mainly towing 20ft enclosed trailer mountainous towing recreational use has 102,000 miles currently bought used
@@gaymondavis9581 ok so it spends most of its days towing, I'd run 5w40 Ford Motorcraft oil with a WIX XP or Motorcraft filter oil wise, specifically 5 w40 not 15w40 btw, I'd get the chance bypass kit since you have a 2013, spend the 350+labor right now and save yourself 10k in the future for when your pump dies, re tighten your vacuum pump cover, and run kleen diesel in every tank if you really want to be safe(helps keep your cp4 from grenading) do transmission services every 30k, and differentials at a maximum of 50k recommended at 30-40k, and buy a spare charge pipe because they randomly break while towing in the mountains usually. If you take perfect care of the truck you can easily see 200-500k+ before the motor itself blows up, but you have to get the cp4 filter, it'll make the job when it fails much, much cheaper. And never take your truck to an oil change shop, either yourself, a ford dealer, or a shop that you trust where you specifically tell them "5w40 Motorcraft Diesel Oil only" links for what I spoke about are here if yt let's me post them --- www.xtremediesel.com/xdp-67l-powerstroke-cp4-bypass-kit-xd281?gclid=EAIaIQobChMI4dT75NPk7QIVYSCtBh02AwWKEAQYAiABEgKsZfD_BwE www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-18308-xdp-intercooler-pipe-upgrade-oem-replacement-11-16-67l-ford-powerstroke.aspx?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIuYDpztXk7QIVByGtBh3CWAUlEAQYAiABEgLPofD_BwE
@@madison69 thanks for the info I have already installed amsoil bypass oil filtertraion system and I do all the services myself all of the fluids have been changed when I purchased the truck and are done on or before the recommended intervals. My biggest complaint I have about the truck is the fuel mileage isn,t as good as it should be but with all the the dpf crap emissions i think it,s just the way it is.
Did I miss the part where you tell us how to make the 67 last longer?
@Trae Thibodeaux every diesel engine made since 2011 has its own problem no matter who the OEM is
@Trae Thibodeaux dont buy dodge or gm
@Trae Thibodeaux delete it and run conservative tuning. They just cant say it outloud
@Trae Thibodeaux yeah everything breaks, abuse and neglect tend to accelerate failures.
Trae Thibodeaux ford diesels never had fuel pumps go out that sent metal shards everywhere google Chevy duramax fuel pump failure its massive and it’s a expensive repair over 6grand the worst ford problem is maybe a measly water pump fix easy and cheap compared to other brand issues
I’m pretty sure those $teel pi$tons from ford are gonna be super expensive. Gonna have to pay for that technology.
I’m done with modern diesels. With the displacement and simplicity and fuel efficiency of the gas engines I’m looking to try 7.3 Godzilla for my next new truck. I tow but not enough to justify the risk and expense of the modern EPA enforced diesel.
Can’t blame you. I went back to gas 10 years ago. Zero issues. The Nazi EPA helped expedite the problems with diesels. DPF and EGR systems ruined a lot. A Godzilla with a blower images a lot of reliable power.
The audio is terrible. Muffled
Soooo....run 5w-40 if you live in a cold climate
I Run 5w 40 all the time.
I use nothing but Mobil-1 Diesel synthetic 5-40 in my 6.7.. Never had a problem..
Nice channel guys! Look me up & reach out if I can be of any assistance. Talk with ya soon 😉👍
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod you should be on here like the guy for RPM ACT
We'll see. No body ever gets back to me...😔
PowerStroke Tech Talk w/ARod what tips would you give for the 2017 6.7 to be more reliable and maintenance recommendations
@@serohaguju1054 i am gonna be goin over that here in an up coming video
A Rod is the man.
Ive had 5 turbo failures in less than 90000km
I love my 2020 power stroke
Run a 5w-40 synthetic... got it.
No run a 10w30
T6 5 40 all year around
I’ve had all 3 brands of newer diesel trucks and drove the shit of them for my Job. The power stroke has had its problems but still not as many as the other two. Ford still my first pick hands down.
What oil y’all run on the power strokes ?
Long story short is they weren’t making money or motors that lasted forever.
I rather have a 250hp on my 2002 7.3 f250 the one will last 1million miles,and not pay 100k$ for a 450 hp new truck the one is not gonna last 250k miles what a shame
Man I really wanted a 14 and up 6.7 but I guess after this it’s a Duramax with weak tie rods a weak trans (over 125 HP tune) or a Cummins with a play toy trans this sux
Better get an older duramax that doesn’t run the same hpfp pump
Get an 18-19’ Powerstroke and take care of it... It’ll last and it’ll pull great. Use good oil, service it regularly, keep the coolant PH levels checked, keep the diffs, transfer case and trans serviced every 30-50k miles and you will be good to hook. I’ve had two 6.7L Powerstroke diesels and they’ve both been great. My first was deleted with only a very mild tune and it ran like a champ!
@@heavymetalcreationz711 whats wrong with the 17 ford 6.7s?
Lighting up the rotating assembly of a diesel makes no sense? This isn’t a high performance gas engine that’s spinning 8,000 plus rpm. It’s a damn diesel that we want to be reliable not quick reving or high rpm. It going to be running 2500 rpm max and needs to make torque and hold it, a heavier rotating assembly is going to help the engine store energy so it can climb a hill better.
Where I live there is some huge farms and Dairies . I talk to the owners of the operations and they all have F350 lariats etc and say they love the truck . I ask if they own or lease them. Every one of them say "I wouldn't one of these high repair cost pos."
How about just use them for their intended purpose and not trying to hot rod them!
no more diesel p/u's for me
FORDS NOPE....Chevy all day long
@@Mikefngarage Chevys are gay.
Once I saw amsoil I couldn't watch no more.
What's wrong with amsoil I'm a new diesel owner
@@tmonei4597 nothing is wrong with it. Mostly what’s wrong is that people that use it push it down other people’s throats so hard it’s left a bad taste. But the reality is, the film strength on the Amsoil 5W40 synthetic diesel oil is hugher than Rotella and the other popular diesel oils. Amsoil is also expensive, it was $160 for just the oil in my 2020 6.7L. But when you pay extra for the better oil it’ll pay dividends in the long run. Pentosin makes a good diesel/gas engine oil. It’s a European oil that’s made to run in both gas and diesel engines, it has a higher film strength than even the Amsoil. But... It doesn’t resist breakdown and the acids created by combustion as well as the Amsoil. So... Do your research, don’t use anything anyone “suggests” without seeing the actual data from a 3rd party tester.
@@heavymetalcreationz711 sweet
started off srong.. then dragged...
Cracked heads, spun bearings, broken valves, CP4's spreading metal, turbo issues, etc. Not in my garage especially with Fords reputation with the 6.0 and 6.4's.
Ford diesel LIGHT DUTY TRUCKS are a waste..sorry..Ford should get out of the diesel market..DURAMAX or CUMMINS
They have the issues too... All do. The 2020 looks very promising for 6.7l though!
Oh please the 6.7 is basically bulletproof. Chevy should get out of the diesel business since they cant make their own diesel so they have to use a Japanese diesel
@Francis you sound like a BLM supporter
@@johnathanleonardo912 I'm not a chevy fanboy (only had Ford and Ram trucks), but come on guy! Stop passing rumors from 2001. Maybe read something before you pass on something that isn't true. Read this and educate yourself so know what you're talking about.
www.dmaxengines.com/
Main bearing spin in block. I think it stems from towing in hills with cruse control on . over tourk the mains. Ford tec I have seen many falures.
You’re boring to listen to
Ford did reverse flow engine 390fe in the GT40 the headers were known as the bundle of snakes