I have watched a number of videos. I really like the level of detail that you demonstrate. I have every confidence that I can reproduce your results. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your process! As you mention, the benefit of using a pourable/brushable silicone is to capture detail. I realize you chose to work with the flower pot as a tie-in with another project of yours, but with largely flat surfaces it doesn't exhibit the potential or clear advantage of adding naphtha to the silicone. In fact, you signaled that you had to be gentile because the naphtha could even interfere with the wax mold release. I feel the wax is an interesting choice because it can hide imperfections in the original model (eg. 3d print layer lines), but may also obscure desirable surface detail in others. I look forward to see if you'll push this technique on a variety of items and materials. Keep up the great work!
You are not alone. Others have asked and I will do a series wherein I defne this method more fully. I initially did a few, just to show how to. It became clear, folks want in depth information on this...so, more to come soon Next is to pour a mold and cast something in plaster per a subscriber.
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@@GEOsustainable Awesome! I also have a project where I intend to cast in plaster using a half-meter tall 3d printed model (PLA). Not too much fine detail, but it is single walled, so I don't think it would survive the wax bath. ABS probably, but like you want to focus on bio-derived materials & economy. Maybe I could just rub on the wax?
Note. I have done some checking. 1 part Castor oil shaken with 20 parts alcohol will serve as a mold release. I like to use renewable products exclusively, in that non-renewable simply makes no sense.
I made that very mistake of NOT using a mold release when I tried to make a mold of something for my son! The silicone (obviously) stuck to the toy I was trying to copy. And I spent quite a while trying to clean it with soap and water!
For what it's worth, I have used liquid Ivory soap and baby powder as a mold release, and have never had an issue. No other liquid soap can be substituted. Mix the two together and end up with a viscosity similar to runny toothpaste, and you're good.
Thanks for sharing Lancer525. Your comments are always a great help. I will put your idea on the list of things to present, and of course, let's folks know it was your idea. Email me with the proportions please.
I recently discovered that dish soap does not work as a mold release when used between cured silicone and fresh silicone. It is hard to get any kind of mold release to “wet” the cured silicone. Any liquid tends to “bead” when applied to silicone, including oil. Maybe Vaseline will work. I’ll try that tomorrow.
Hey buddy, nice work. We can't get Naphtha here in England, would white spirit do. Also would vegetable oil brushed over the item to be molded work as a release agent
Hello!!!!! I am so excited about this!!!! And I'm wondering if a bartoline lamp oil is the same? I'm trying to work out a good way to buy naphtha in the UK
@@ChristianBang34 Excellent. Thank you for sharing. I can see how that would work. And it is sustainable. Your method is to spray the Shellac on the silicone?
@@GEOsustainable My method is to paint to Shellac on the object I want to make a mold of as a release agent. We get a brush on version in the hardware store.
Hi, love your videos, so I’m working on making prop baby for low budget film and I’m looking for a cheap way to make a mold of the project, do you think this is a good way to make a mold from a plastic doll and some clay alterations? And would Vaseline work as a release agent as that is what I have at hand, I also have Shea butter and finally can this be used to reproduce gelatin copies?
Vaseline should work just fine. Pay close attention, however, as the Naptha will thin the Vaseline, but a thin film of Vaseline should be enough. The clay alterations may be a bit more tricky. Make sure they are covered well with the Vaseline, as any surface not coated will stick to the silicone. Stay tuned for more videos on making art with silicone. I plan to do more very soon.
GEO-sustainable oh nice, thanks so much, will pay attention , I might still go ahead and try, will let you know the outcome but I look forward to more videos on art...thanks for sharing your knowledge
@@robertauti8126 Great, yes please, share with the GEO-sustainable community. We are all looking forward to hearing your ideas and your experiments. This helps us all grow in our craft.
Thank you so much for sharing your extensive knowledge. When you make a silicone mold using the naphtha method, once the mold cures, is flammability still an issue? The reason I ask is when you pour epoxy resin, you use a torch or heat gun to release the air bubbles from the resin. Is this safe to do with molds made with the naphtha? Thank you very much.
I strongly suggest that you wait a week or so, or WASH your mold in soap and water before putting an open flame too close. I also made a new video using pottery plasters the mold medium, it may be an idea. It is my pleasure to show what I know.
You did not show the result or benefit of Release Agent after you finished the Brush ON. Do you have another video where you have shown the Brush In Mould being released. Actually I am interested to see the mould which comes when you brush On.
Doing the crafts is not the scope of my channel. I show you the process. You would try what you ask for yourself, as you are the crafter. I have no talent for such.
Thanks for the video! So how long and how stiff do mineral spirits + silicone cure? Because I saw someone on other vids used mineral oil and it was still softer than jello after a one week waiting period, due to extra volume. But I presume using naphta will yield better results?
Just to confirm: can you take the crisco vegetable oil and coat the item you want to make a mold of or is that what you were heating in the pot? Is crisco synonymous with 'soy oil'?
Friend, I really need to try this and do a video. I have gotten this question like a zillion times. I can't say until I have done it myself. I have heard however, that it works. It seems reasonable because Acetone is an oil based hydrocarbon solvent.
Yes, it will work well in this application. I am sorry I missed this until now, TH-cam buries some comments at times. Vaseline will leave a thin film that will serve you well, and can be washed away very easy.
Hi, I need a simple solid silicone shape, I’ve got a frosted glass tea light holder that I want to use as a mould and I’m going to have a go at using the caulk/water/cornflower method...wish me luck! The shape I need to make will be used as a blank shape inside an empty mould I already have that I will then fill with casting plaster. You have confirmed that silicone spray or WD40 won’t work as a release agent ( thank goodness I saw that bit) and that Vaseline or Oil will work....my question is how would such an oil affect the plaster once I’ve cast my item as I need to paint them with acrylic paints? Thanks!
First, why are you using water? I do not use water in the video. Take another look before you start. Yes, you will need to wash off the oil or other release agent before casting the plaster. Silicone molds usually don't need a release agent. It is used in making the silicone mold. The frosted may give you a bit of trouble, so I recommend a more viscous release agent such as Vaseline or vegetable Crisco, or even wax. In your case, you may even just use Dawn staright out of the bottle. I also suggest that you watch a few other of my videos on the subject of silicone mold making, as I cover the topic more in depth. Happy Crafting! It sounds very interesting, your project.
Thanks for the extremely prompt and helpful reply! My mistake about saying I was going to use water, I’m not! Got the two methods confused! I don’t need to use any kind of release agent in the silicon mould I use so am hoping that this blank will still pop out of the item once the casting plaster is set. I’m U.K. based so I’m thinking Crisco is just a brand name for a type of cooking oil. I could use Vaseline I suppose, horrid stuff as it is! The glass has an opaque look, not sure if I used the correct term there when I said frosted. I did try using straight silicone in the glass but then realised when I had to cut and scrape every last atom out of the glass that both are made from silicon.....and yes, silicon does stick to silicon. Lesson learnt I guess! I’ve watched countless vids on how to make a mold as having one custom made is too expensive. Thanks for you help, it’s appreciated.
@@gillianstew2116 Ah Yes, For my UK friends. Crisco is a brand name for a semi-solid cooking lard, once made from pigs, now made with vegatables. It comes in a can. I am sure you have similar lards there. Vaseline is horrid stuff, made from oil, near wax in a refinery tower. Opaque is correct, and as long as it is smooth, you should have no troubles. Yep, silicone is a superior adhesive. Great description on the scraping of every last atom, you made me LOL.
I ave An object- jewelry pendant that has filagree metal border.... wax may bubble or fill the filagree area ... as might thick Vaseline/petroleum jelly. Wondering if I melted the petroleum then dipped item or would corn or vegetable oil work? Appreciate any assistance or suggestions...
This is a tough one. As the thinner the oil, the more likely you are to attach. So, keep and eye out, don't manipulate the silicone too much. This may be a case where a spray mold release agent will be what you need. Bottom line, test, test, test, before you commit. And, BTW, I love tough questions, so ask away. That is why I am here.
I have used vaseline as a mold release. You can brush that on. No idea if you can melt it to dip it or not. I would test it first with something unimportant. Remember, it may be flammable when heated.
I have learned to show the finished product at the start, but this is old. This, I am sure I showed it at the end, that was logical back then. New to TH-cam impatience))
Silicone is not an adhesive, hence why is is almost universally used to make molds. In most cases, silicone will only reliably stick to silicone. This applies to only 100% silicone such as the substances sold explicitly for mold making. The 100% silicone you purchase from hardware stores may or may not stick, but as it is made to serve as a sealant, I would err on the side of caution and expect it to possible adhere to some surfaces. For a true mold making silicone, the only products you made have trouble with are urethanes but just about everything else should release pretty easily. As for release agents, WD-40 most likely will not work because it with solvate the uncured silicone, pulling it into any porous structures that may exist in the mold or mold form. You don't need a much to release a proper silicone, but anything porous will always work against you. The cooking oil does work, but not necessarily for the reasons you mention. Wax will always work as it seals any porous materials and it will not work as a solvent for the uncured silicone. Other than that, good tips and videos. Instead of Naphtha, you could use acetone with a little water added to improve the cure time and create a thin pourable/paintable/more usable mold substance from silicone sealant and minwax or vaseline will work well as mold release agents and possibly give you a thinner layer than what you can achieve with the soy wax.
Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to comment. We will all gain from this. With one exception. Silicone adheres to just about everything except concrete, and even that is semi-bonded, in my experience. It is a superior adhesive to glass and smooth plastic...
It really depends on the purpose of the silicone. If you were do go through the same process with high-temp silicone for gaskets, you'd probably notice completely different behavior. It is still '100%' silicone, but it will behave differently from the '100%' silicone sealant and very different from '100%' silicone adhesive. Silicone can be made into an adhesive, but something that is truly '100%' silicone should not stick to much of anything and for those times when it does stick, it is most likely chemically bonded to the surface of the object hence why it is nearly impossible to remove. That is probably one of the biggest differences between two-part silicones for making molds and one-part silicones sold in hardware stores as sealants, the former sticks to practically nothing and requires no mold release agent and the later will most likely require a layer of cooking oil, wax or petroleum jelly to ensure that the object being molded is properly released.
@@GEOsustainable We "glued" large plastic sign letters to the front a of a brick building 18 years ago, with 100% silicone, and the letters are still right where we stuck them. No other fasteners, just silicone. All the wind, sun , rain, ice, snow, etc., and the silicone is holding fast.
Hi.. am so thankfull for u, for post such the Vidio, am your follower Sir.. i tried to duplicate a wooden jar with the covert. Ive tried exactly what is in your Vidio,, i change Naphta in to zipo lighter fluid ( as naphta not available on my country ) ,, the silicone are excellent, and Ive succed duplicating the covert,, EXCEPT i have issue demold the jar silicone. I have apply Vaseline prior pouring the silicone.. ohh, i Made the release agent- from vasline mix with zipo lighter fluid, because what i read that is one of the best.. it takes almost 2 weeks since its still wet.. please help me, am almost desperate now.. i failed 2 Times already.. 😭 really look forward for your response.. 🙏
I will do my best. Lighter fluid will work just fine. You need to add cornstarch to help the silicone dry. Add a ratio of 10 gr cornstarch to every 100 gr of silicone, and mix well. This will dry the silicone in one hour, regardless of thickness. Vaseline should work, I use wax as my mold release, but another good one is dish soap. Dish soap should be applied in several coats. I can show you how to apply it in this video. th-cam.com/video/452y9FQ7a0M/w-d-xo.html Should you need more help, my email is listed on all video in the description. Thank you for support.
Wow you have me very quick response.. thanks so much.. on my first try i use cornstarch but it was Abit failure for my pourrable silicone, maybe i didnt measure the cornstarch or am too long mix it. Please sir, am curious and wanted to try again.. does the above ratio for pourrable silicone ? Thanks in advance 🙏😇
@@ayahoney1 I understand the frustration of making expense mistakes, so I have a newer video explaining how to use cornstarch and a solvent. I give the ratios and show you how to mix it in a certain order. I show a mistake if done wrong, and how to avoid it. Check here. th-cam.com/video/sIQkFVftDZU/w-d-xo.html Yes, this ratio will work with any thinner or solvent, as the cornstarch works directly with the silicone.
No NO, please waste my time, I clicked on your vid to see what and how to do a mold. Please go slowly and step by step. My goal is to make soap molds, teach me.
Well then, good news. I return to this subject in my latest video and cover a few more points. Check it out. If you have any more questions, leave a comment and I can answer then in a coming video.
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I have watched a number of videos. I really like the level of detail that you demonstrate. I have every confidence that I can reproduce your results. Thanks!
You are most welcome. Yes, I try to show the process while I discuss things to do and things to avoid.
you're the Bob Ross of Mold Making
Too kind. Thanks!
Thanks for sharing your process! As you mention, the benefit of using a pourable/brushable silicone is to capture detail. I realize you chose to work with the flower pot as a tie-in with another project of yours, but with largely flat surfaces it doesn't exhibit the potential or clear advantage of adding naphtha to the silicone. In fact, you signaled that you had to be gentile because the naphtha could even interfere with the wax mold release. I feel the wax is an interesting choice because it can hide imperfections in the original model (eg. 3d print layer lines), but may also obscure desirable surface detail in others. I look forward to see if you'll push this technique on a variety of items and materials. Keep up the great work!
You are not alone. Others have asked and I will do a series wherein I defne this method more fully. I initially did a few, just to show how to. It became clear, folks want in depth information on this...so, more to come soon Next is to pour a mold and cast something in plaster per a subscriber.
@@GEOsustainable Awesome! I also have a project where I intend to cast in plaster using a half-meter tall 3d printed model (PLA). Not too much fine detail, but it is single walled, so I don't think it would survive the wax bath. ABS probably, but like you want to focus on bio-derived materials & economy. Maybe I could just rub on the wax?
@ PLA is a lot higher melt temperature than the soy wax I use. You could rub on the wax, for sure. Bioderived is what we are all about, so, WELCOME!
Note. I have done some checking. 1 part Castor oil shaken with 20 parts alcohol will serve as a mold release. I like to use renewable products exclusively, in that non-renewable simply makes no sense.
The video is planned for this Saturday. Look for it, I demonstrate an idea I hope will be of value to you.
I made that very mistake of NOT using a mold release when I tried to make a mold of something for my son! The silicone (obviously) stuck to the toy I was trying to copy. And I spent quite a while trying to clean it with soap and water!
Did you manage to get the toy molded?
@@GEOsustainable nope. I want to try the pourable kind I saw on your channel! Then cast it in casein!
For what it's worth, I have used liquid Ivory soap and baby powder as a mold release, and have never had an issue. No other liquid soap can be substituted. Mix the two together and end up with a viscosity similar to runny toothpaste, and you're good.
Thanks for sharing Lancer525. Your comments are always a great help. I will put your idea on the list of things to present, and of course, let's folks know it was your idea. Email me with the proportions please.
@@GEOsustainable why can't you just use vegetable glycerin as a mold release
@@GEOsustainable oh and one more thing also as a mold release cornstarch will work at the mold release and also mica powders will work as a
Love the videos. Thanks for making them.
I find that dish soap also works well as a mold release. Just a little goes a long way.
Thank you webderek, for sharing that tip. I am pinning you so others see.
I recently discovered that dish soap does not work as a mold release when used between cured silicone and fresh silicone. It is hard to get any kind of mold release to “wet” the cured silicone. Any liquid tends to “bead” when applied to silicone, including oil. Maybe Vaseline will work. I’ll try that tomorrow.
@@webderek That's a new one. Please share with us if Vaseline works. Don't brush too much, as the Naptha will dissolve the Vaseline.
Thanks so much for your help with Molds🌷
My Pleasure. I am glad I was helpful.
I'm making my molds with 100% silicon I would like to know if silicon with mineral spirit gets hard too thanks
No, silicone remains flexible.
Hey buddy, nice work. We can't get Naphtha here in England, would white spirit do. Also would vegetable oil brushed over the item to be molded work as a release agent
Yes to both. Thanks for the kudos.
nice video thank you very much I subscribed to your channel 👏
Thank you. Look forward to many more videos on topics such as this.
Hello!!!!! I am so excited about this!!!! And I'm wondering if a bartoline lamp oil is the same? I'm trying to work out a good way to buy naphtha in the UK
Good idea.
I am working with sculpture and for some silicones you can use shellac
Especially for porous materials such as clay
@@ChristianBang34 Excellent. Thank you for sharing. I can see how that would work. And it is sustainable. Your method is to spray the Shellac on the silicone?
@@GEOsustainable My method is to paint to Shellac on the object I want to make a mold of as a release agent. We get a brush on version in the hardware store.
Hi, love your videos, so I’m working on making prop baby for low budget film and I’m looking for a cheap way to make a mold of the project, do you think this is a good way to make a mold from a plastic doll and some clay alterations? And would Vaseline work as a release agent as that is what I have at hand, I also have Shea butter and finally can this be used to reproduce gelatin copies?
Vaseline should work just fine. Pay close attention, however, as the Naptha will thin the Vaseline, but a thin film of Vaseline should be enough. The clay alterations may be a bit more tricky. Make sure they are covered well with the Vaseline, as any surface not coated will stick to the silicone. Stay tuned for more videos on making art with silicone. I plan to do more very soon.
GEO-sustainable oh nice, thanks so much, will pay attention , I might still go ahead and try, will let you know the outcome but I look forward to more videos on art...thanks for sharing your knowledge
@@robertauti8126 Great, yes please, share with the GEO-sustainable community. We are all looking forward to hearing your ideas and your experiments. This helps us all grow in our craft.
What's the weight of silicone in a whole tube tube of silicone?
10 oz.
Thank you so much for sharing your extensive knowledge. When you make a silicone mold using the naphtha method, once the mold cures, is flammability still an issue? The reason I ask is when you pour epoxy resin, you use a torch or heat gun to release the air bubbles from the resin. Is this safe to do with molds made with the naphtha? Thank you very much.
I strongly suggest that you wait a week or so, or WASH your mold in soap and water before putting an open flame too close. I also made a new video using pottery plasters the mold medium, it may be an idea. It is my pleasure to show what I know.
thankyou for such update sir
My pleasure. I have several more on silicone. Check them out. Each one explores new ways.
Also: can you store the brush able silicone until you want to use it or do you have to use it immediately?
Use it immediately. Silicone cures with just the moisture in the air. So, unless you can pump out all the air, use it as soon as it is mixed.
You did not show the result or benefit of Release Agent after you finished the Brush ON. Do you have another video where you have shown the Brush In Mould being released. Actually I am interested to see the mould which comes when you brush On.
Doing the crafts is not the scope of my channel. I show you the process. You would try what you ask for yourself, as you are the crafter. I have no talent for such.
Are you using a US cup or a metric cup?
US
i also use soy wax as moisturizer lol. and i make my own tack cloths this way too. subscribed!
Awesome! That is a great idea, tack cloths.
Hey it's not your fault some people are missing a few brain cells. Ha Love Your Videos!!!
Thanks. Pretty sure we all are.
Seems like you always put the silicone first, the thinner (naptha) after that.
Is it okay to do it in reverse order?
Great question. Yes, you can put in the thinner first.
@@GEOsustainable I see, thanks a lot
Nice video, keep it up yeah
I used spray cat wax
Never heard of spray cats. You should spay and neuter your cat. Wax that comes in a can, can obviously be used.
Thanks for the video! So how long and how stiff do mineral spirits + silicone cure? Because I saw someone on other vids used mineral oil and it was still softer than jello after a one week waiting period, due to extra volume. But I presume using naphta will yield better results?
Great question. I have a video that will answer your questions. It will show you how to cure silicone in one hour, regardless of thickness.
Just to confirm: can you take the crisco vegetable oil and coat the item you want to make a mold of or is that what you were heating in the pot? Is crisco synonymous with 'soy oil'?
I used soy wax,as it hardens, giving a bit more for the silicone to cling to. I am sure Crisco would work too.
Do the molds last just as long as the two part silicone materials??
Great question. Yes, they so, both are 100% silicone. Both last at least 50 years.
How about acetone to thin down silicon?
Friend, I really need to try this and do a video. I have gotten this question like a zillion times. I can't say until I have done it myself. I have heard however, that it works.
It seems reasonable because Acetone is an oil based hydrocarbon solvent.
@@GEOsustainable please!!!! Yes!!!!! Experiment for us!!!!!
Would Vaseline (petroleum jelly) work as a release agent?
Yes, it will work well in this application. I am sorry I missed this until now, TH-cam buries some comments at times. Vaseline will leave a thin film that will serve you well, and can be washed away very easy.
You have WD40 there with you, spray it on the spring and trigger assembly and there wont be any noise.
HAHA, yes I sure do. Good eye. Thank you.
Naphtha is illegal in California where I live. What can I use to substitute with?
I have just the solution, I posted it last week. th-cam.com/video/Ci28Y3Z3bYU/w-d-xo.html
Hi, I need a simple solid silicone shape, I’ve got a frosted glass tea light holder that I want to use as a mould and I’m going to have a go at using the caulk/water/cornflower method...wish me luck! The shape I need to make will be used as a blank shape inside an empty mould I already have that I will then fill with casting plaster. You have confirmed that silicone spray or WD40 won’t work as a release agent ( thank goodness I saw that bit) and that Vaseline or Oil will work....my question is how would such an oil affect the plaster once I’ve cast my item as I need to paint them with acrylic paints? Thanks!
First, why are you using water? I do not use water in the video. Take another look before you start. Yes, you will need to wash off the oil or other release agent before casting the plaster. Silicone molds usually don't need a release agent. It is used in making the silicone mold. The frosted may give you a bit of trouble, so I recommend a more viscous release agent such as Vaseline or vegetable Crisco, or even wax. In your case, you may even just use Dawn staright out of the bottle. I also suggest that you watch a few other of my videos on the subject of silicone mold making, as I cover the topic more in depth. Happy Crafting! It sounds very interesting, your project.
Thanks for the extremely prompt and helpful reply! My mistake about saying I was going to use water, I’m not! Got the two methods confused! I don’t need to use any kind of release agent in the silicon mould I use so am hoping that this blank will still pop out of the item once the casting plaster is set. I’m U.K. based so I’m thinking Crisco is just a brand name for a type of cooking oil. I could use Vaseline I suppose, horrid stuff as it is! The glass has an opaque look, not sure if I used the correct term there when I said frosted. I did try using straight silicone in the glass but then realised when I had to cut and scrape every last atom out of the glass that both are made from silicon.....and yes, silicon does stick to silicon. Lesson learnt I guess! I’ve watched countless vids on how to make a mold as having one custom made is too expensive. Thanks for you help, it’s appreciated.
Dawn, yes, I even had to google that after seeing it on a list of ingredients for mould making! I use Fairy here in the U.K.!
@@gillianstew2116 Ah Yes, For my UK friends. Crisco is a brand name for a semi-solid cooking lard, once made from pigs, now made with vegatables. It comes in a can. I am sure you have similar lards there. Vaseline is horrid stuff, made from oil, near wax in a refinery tower. Opaque is correct, and as long as it is smooth, you should have no troubles. Yep, silicone is a superior adhesive. Great description on the scraping of every last atom, you made me LOL.
@@gillianstew2116 Thanks so much for sharing. Fairy. I am pinning you in hopes others read everything you are sharing with us.
I ave
An object- jewelry pendant that has filagree metal border.... wax may bubble or fill the filagree area ... as might thick Vaseline/petroleum jelly. Wondering if I melted the petroleum then dipped item or would corn or vegetable oil work? Appreciate any assistance or suggestions...
This is a tough one. As the thinner the oil, the more likely you are to attach. So, keep and eye out, don't manipulate the silicone too much. This may be a case where a spray mold release agent will be what you need. Bottom line, test, test, test, before you commit. And, BTW, I love tough questions, so ask away. That is why I am here.
I have used vaseline as a mold release. You can brush that on. No idea if you can melt it to dip it or not. I would test it first with something unimportant. Remember, it may be flammable when heated.
Can we see finished product before ending video?
I have learned to show the finished product at the start, but this is old. This, I am sure I showed it at the end, that was logical back then. New to TH-cam impatience))
How can you make the silicone hard?
Silicone will remain flexible for 50 years.
How do you clean the brush used?
I use the Naphtha. Let it soak a bit, then use a steel wire brush to get it all.
Will Beeswax work?
Yes, beeswax works. I use beeswax all the time as well. It is a natural wax that also can be washed off when done.
I cannot get this to play with the TH-cam ap.
Check your internet connection?
Can you use silicone for a concrete mold?
I have painstakingly and with some expensive, put together an entire series on silicone and it's uses. Please watch. Then ask.
@@GEOsustainable I had watched but did not hear / missed the mention of uses series. I will go hunt it up. Thank you.
Silicone is not an adhesive, hence why is is almost universally used to make molds. In most cases, silicone will only reliably stick to silicone. This applies to only 100% silicone such as the substances sold explicitly for mold making. The 100% silicone you purchase from hardware stores may or may not stick, but as it is made to serve as a sealant, I would err on the side of caution and expect it to possible adhere to some surfaces. For a true mold making silicone, the only products you made have trouble with are urethanes but just about everything else should release pretty easily.
As for release agents, WD-40 most likely will not work because it with solvate the uncured silicone, pulling it into any porous structures that may exist in the mold or mold form. You don't need a much to release a proper silicone, but anything porous will always work against you. The cooking oil does work, but not necessarily for the reasons you mention. Wax will always work as it seals any porous materials and it will not work as a solvent for the uncured silicone.
Other than that, good tips and videos. Instead of Naphtha, you could use acetone with a little water added to improve the cure time and create a thin pourable/paintable/more usable mold substance from silicone sealant and minwax or vaseline will work well as mold release agents and possibly give you a thinner layer than what you can achieve with the soy wax.
Thanks! I appreciate you taking the time to comment. We will all gain from this. With one exception. Silicone adheres to just about everything except concrete, and even that is semi-bonded, in my experience. It is a superior adhesive to glass and smooth plastic...
It really depends on the purpose of the silicone. If you were do go through the same process with high-temp silicone for gaskets, you'd probably notice completely different behavior. It is still '100%' silicone, but it will behave differently from the '100%' silicone sealant and very different from '100%' silicone adhesive. Silicone can be made into an adhesive, but something that is truly '100%' silicone should not stick to much of anything and for those times when it does stick, it is most likely chemically bonded to the surface of the object hence why it is nearly impossible to remove. That is probably one of the biggest differences between two-part silicones for making molds and one-part silicones sold in hardware stores as sealants, the former sticks to practically nothing and requires no mold release agent and the later will most likely require a layer of cooking oil, wax or petroleum jelly to ensure that the object being molded is properly released.
@@GEOsustainable We "glued" large plastic sign letters to the front a of a brick building 18 years ago, with 100% silicone, and the letters are still right where we stuck them. No other fasteners, just silicone. All the wind, sun , rain, ice, snow, etc., and the silicone is holding fast.
Would it be a teaspoon of distilled water
Maybe helps for someone : Naphta is White Spirit.
Thank you so much! You are the first to confirm this for us.
@@GEOsustainable Yust Wikipedia...
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/White_spirit
What about vaseline
Sure
Hi.. am so thankfull for u, for post such the Vidio, am your follower Sir.. i tried to duplicate a wooden jar with the covert. Ive tried exactly what is in your Vidio,, i change Naphta in to zipo lighter fluid ( as naphta not available on my country ) ,, the silicone are excellent, and Ive succed duplicating the covert,, EXCEPT i have issue demold the jar silicone. I have apply Vaseline prior pouring the silicone.. ohh, i Made the release agent- from vasline mix with zipo lighter fluid, because what i read that is one of the best.. it takes almost 2 weeks since its still wet.. please help me, am almost desperate now.. i failed 2 Times already.. 😭 really look forward for your response.. 🙏
I will do my best. Lighter fluid will work just fine. You need to add cornstarch to help the silicone dry. Add a ratio of 10 gr cornstarch to every 100 gr of silicone, and mix well. This will dry the silicone in one hour, regardless of thickness. Vaseline should work, I use wax as my mold release, but another good one is dish soap. Dish soap should be applied in several coats. I can show you how to apply it in this video. th-cam.com/video/452y9FQ7a0M/w-d-xo.html
Should you need more help, my email is listed on all video in the description. Thank you for support.
Wow you have me very quick response.. thanks so much.. on my first try i use cornstarch but it was Abit failure for my pourrable silicone, maybe i didnt measure the cornstarch or am too long mix it.
Please sir, am curious and wanted to try again.. does the above ratio for pourrable silicone ? Thanks in advance 🙏😇
@@ayahoney1 I understand the frustration of making expense mistakes, so I have a newer video explaining how to use cornstarch and a solvent. I give the ratios and show you how to mix it in a certain order. I show a mistake if done wrong, and how to avoid it. Check here. th-cam.com/video/sIQkFVftDZU/w-d-xo.html Yes, this ratio will work with any thinner or solvent, as the cornstarch works directly with the silicone.
Blessed you sir.. i'll do with ratio and method you gave.. i couldnt find the word to thanked you.. i'll emails you once its done 😍
@@ayahoney1 Great. Yes, email me on your progress.
No NO, please waste my time, I clicked on your vid to see what and how to do a mold. Please go slowly and step by step. My goal is to make soap molds, teach me.
Well then, good news. I return to this subject in my latest video and cover a few more points. Check it out. If you have any more questions, leave a comment and I can answer then in a coming video.