As far as I'm concerned, this is one of the best videos I've ever seen for making molds. I've never seen this particular method for making a thin pour mold and I appreciate that you have it here. This seems really useful for highly detailed items, but most of all, what a money saver compared to buying the mold making products! Thanks!
My favorite part was when he was trying to open the Naphtha and he said 'I'm going to get the jackhammer now'. Really gave me a chuckle...... Loved it!!
Yeah, over-kill the tool to open the cap that is over-kill on some sort of child or idiot safety? That blasted cap is the result of government regulation. You have to twist it hard and then pry off with a screwdriver. Way more dangerous than a screw cap. I miss the old days, when it was the responsibility of the adult to keep things out of reach. These days, the government thinks they need to do all the thinking. Win, win, win for governments. They get to regulate you, tax you for the privilege of regulating you, and spend your money giving jobs to people that like to regulate others. Anyway...I thought it was funny, so I just said it.
Thanks for not using LOUD music. As an Curing Agent. Add about 1/4 teaspoon of Distilled Water to pure silicon, to your Pourable Mixture.. About 1 Teaspoon per Pound. Mix the Silicon and Naptha first to the Pour stage, then add the water and Mix it in, Pour Quickly, as it will start to set up in a matter of Minutes. it should cut the cure time by 3 quarters.. from 24 hours to less than 6. Silicon needs moisture to cure. It normally absorbs it from the Air. if you've seen the Dish Soap and Silicon mixture. The kneading is done in Distilled Water with dish soap. The Dish soap just keeps it from sticking, It's the absorbed Water that speeds up the Cure time, not the Soap.
@Michael kilby Yes, the Distilled water speeds up the cure time. For the amount you were mixing, 1/4 teaspoon is I believe the correct amount. the Silicon will adsorb it and cure faster.
I have watched tons of videos on here over many years and rarely ever make a comment..today I had to..I completely enjoyed this video tutorial..your voice is so calm quiet unlike many female voices and I found it actually soothing while watching..the instructions were so detailed, clearly stated..easy to follow, and well laid out..the comments on the chemicals what to do and not to do at the last tutorial were very well explained and why..many do not know these things and need to know before using if not an artist of many forms..everything in this video was well laid out,, step by step well prepared before and I look forward to seeing more of your videos..subscribed shared and thumbs up! Great way to save money on supplies that are very expensive when you can make your own that is very simple to do and does not take long at all. One of the best tutorials I have seen!
I am glad my content was helpful. Your kind words are very inspiring. Thank you.Have a look around, I have many helpful videos on silicone. And, my next one is also going to be on silicone. I also have a video about candle testing with covers how to do it safely. You may want to check it out.
I am glad you did, and that I am able to help. I have a few more on the subject of silicone. I hope you watch them, as silicone has a lot of interesting uses. And, I hope you share.
I've looked through so many videos for these silicone mixtures, and this is the only one with the solution that saves you from messing up the room, many thanks for that.
My pleasure, glad to help. Yes, you can use this method for not making a mess for many projects, not just silicone and corn starch. I try to mix all my chemistry this way. I have another one where I mix Naptha in a ZipLock. Works great too.
Sir how can I make more Hardened as well as elastic mould with different methods cuz the mould tear apart due to it's complexity, I'm making mini sculptures this summer holidays as my school project 😋.
You may have to make a multi-part mold, with parting seams to aid in removal. I thin pour portions and use mold release between pours (sections). Cornstarch makes silicone stiff as silicone can possibly be. Elasticity can be modestly affected by adding Glycerine.
As a mold made with the diy pouring silicone once the mold is made and set I it still flamable? Say I make a mold then use it for resin and need ro torch the bubbles while resin is setting, Is it possible?
Great questions. It takes quite some time for the Naptha is evaporate completely out, it has a smell 2 weeks later. So, caution. Once the thinner has gone out, the working temperature of silicone is 350F. Therefore, the flame of the torch WILL burn the silicone.
very informative video, this! will non-acetic cure silicone cure slower than acetic cure silicone when mixed with corn flour? i've been using silicone for years. it's a wonder substance. only very recently i found a recipe to use it as a paint. for those who are interested, i found it described on youtube as making a seam sealer for tent seams. he suggested 1 to 1 ratio of silicone to mineral turps(a list of many other substances at the end of his video). i found 1 to 3 or 4 parts turps worked best for my uses as a paint on canvas or denim applied over holes in rusted leaky roofing gutters. hope this helps someone.
It sure does help! The non-acetic acid silicone cures (is rain ready in 30 minutes), so it is a bit faster than the less expensive kind (evolves acetic acid). You can include the link to the other video for those interested in checking it out. We are an inventor community here. Share away!
@@GEOsustainable, i don't know how to 'include the link'. i've seen 2 on the subject. one is called thinning silicone for seam sealing by franco darioli. the other i saw was make your own seam sealer by maxpatch67. there are others. just type in the subject and a plethora will appear.
Hi again! Just to let you know my mould has worked a treat! I’m so pleased it’s saved me over ten pounds for something 1 inch in depth and 1.5 inch in diameter, plus now I know how to make any others I might need. I used the 100% silicone caulk and cornflour method with a tiny drop of cooking oil and a drop of acrylic paint to colour it. The mould was the little opaque glass tea light holder I mentioned and I oiled it lightly before pushing the mix into it. Smoothed the top out with a flat bottle top. May have missed a couple of spots! It was hard to extract so I used a strip cut from a plastic document wallet to run round the sides and free the 2 small spots that were stuck, then slid a kitchen knife between the strip of plastic and the glass and out it popped, perfect! Thanks for you help and advice 👍
OMG, the plastic bag! i made SUCH a mess trying this is a bowl with loose latex gloves. yuk. then i tried the silicone in soapy water. nope did not work. the cornstarch method worked but it was SO messy i didn't want to try again, but here is this lovely fellow with a plastic bag! YAY!
The bag is a good idea but I was having an anxiety attack watching him try to work it into the corner !! Must be one of those people that can't get any toothpaste out when the tube is still 1/4 full..😂🤣 Just lay the bag on the table and use anything as a straite edge to push every spec of the silicone where you want.. Just like a tube of toothpaste someone has squeezed with there whole hand leaving it full of toothpaste instead of laying it on the sink and simply starting from the opposite end flattening it towards the cap naturally pushing 100% of it out.. 👍🤣 Goodluck !! ( Its not meant to be a negative comment.. Good Vid)
Great question. Yes it does shrink. It can shrink from 10 to 20%, depending on how much you thin it. I have not developed a formula to calculate shrinkage yet; but, as I get this question often, I think it is time to develop a chart folks can refer to. Thank you for your question, I will begin a series of trials for this.
On the solid mold, do you completely bury the item in the middle of the silicone and cut it out after it cures? It would be helpful to see a similar project to the end. I don't understand what comes next. Thank you.
I'll see what I can do. But, really, it is a matter of thinking it out for yourself. How would you do it? The way you describe it would work just great.
Oh, I got another idea/question... How about mixing in about half of the 1/4 cup (1/8- i know you know that, but just in case someone else wants to try it, and they fell asleep in math class a lot :)... with the silicone and as soon as that is blended uniformly, add the other half in and mix. I'm wondering if that will not only help with a better/easier blend, but more importantly, extend the dry time. Looks like every second counts with this AWESOME mix. Thanks for the info!
I like your other world thinking. I have worked out a formula I share in many of my videos for adjusting cure times. For you, a 10:1 will give 1 hour cure time. If you need more time than that, don't use any cornstarch.
Well thanks. Consider subscribing and stay tuned as I plan to do a lot with silicone and mold making as we gear up to replace many one use oil based plastics with bioplastics. Good information, thanks for bringing that up. Yes, I have one and is something I too would recommend folks look for.
Thanks, it always burnt my butt at how high priced molds are and the kits is rediculously high too. I'd never seen such a cheap easy way to make the molds Thanks 🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
This video is interesting. May I know is the silicone caulk food grade. I want to use the mold for jelly making. Looking forward to your advise. Thank you.
Thanks for posting this video. Question, if you have a detailed part that you wish to make this mold of and then cast more of the same part, what can you use to coat the part so there is NO chance or the mold sticking to the Master part?
Great question, and I am so glad that you asked before attempting. I made a video on Mold Release recommendations. I strongly encourage you to watch. After watching, if you have any questions at all, leave a comment or contact me via email. Cheers and thanks for your question. th-cam.com/video/gJcTeh4GHA8/w-d-xo.html
I just bought some silicone & spent half a day siliconing the bloody holes in the roof & have some left... Hope it works BUT I also have been looking for a good way to make molds for resin & clay so thanks heaps for the video!
Never heard of the DIY pourable silicone before. Did you come up with this idea? I used the Dow pourable silicon years ago so this seems like a good idea to me and have several questions if you don't mind. Is there a black color or just white and clear and which do you prefer - what would be a good release agent for 2-part molds - any idea what the shrinkage percent is, I suppose may vary with thinner amount - any idea what would be a good filler/bulker? The Dow Corning stuff was so expensive that I use to cut up reject molds in small pieces and just add it after mixing - worked great and extended the product. Thanks for sharing!
All great questions. There is a black color. I discuss mold release agaents in another video, look for the title mold release recommendations. yes, it depends on the amouny of thinner. I use cut up silicone also. I do not recommend anything else. Thanks for watching and subscribing.
I want to make molds for small cement shapes. Would the thinned out silicone hold up? Also, would the thinned silicone be brushable? I'm not in a hurry for them to cure.
Great questions. This will make perfect molds for pouring concrete shapes. The thinned silicone is just as durable as straight from the tube. If you thin it, allow for a bit of shrinkage.The cornstarch serves two purposes. One is to speed up cure time, and the other to to cure the silicone should the mold be very thick (more than 1/4" will not cure for months, so use the cornstarch). Yes, the thinned silicone will be brushable. I have a video showing how and give mold release recommendations. Check here: th-cam.com/video/gJcTeh4GHA8/w-d-xo.html
My pleasure, and thank you for sharing your plan. Let us know how it works, please. Consider subscribing as I plan to do many more videos based on feedback and comments. Your idea sounds like something others would be interested in seeing me do.
Thanks for a screaming good video. I have never bothered with gloves or plastic bags. Just knead some 100% Silicone caulk with some corn starch until it starts to firm up, then make your mold. I might suggest that people make sure your mold is thick enough to also endure you pulling and prying and maybe turning it inside out to get your molded part out. I usually make my molds in a container, sometimes a "Tupper-style" food container or one I fabricate myself out of a plastic milk carton, styrofoam fast food box or other handy scraps. That gives the mold a more uniform shape on the outside for uniform strength. Like when you use your mold, rub that outer container with a thin layer of vegetable oil, baby oil or other "mold release" first.
Awesome, thank you. I am glad you liked. I like your ideas. I made a video on mold release recommendations, and one on pouring. I hope you check them out. Here are the links. th-cam.com/video/gJcTeh4GHA8/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/sIQkFVftDZU/w-d-xo.html
I'm in the UK do you know what I could use in place of Naphtha? We have something called white spirits that jeeps coming up in my search but it says that's used for cleaning paintbrushes I have no idea what to buy. X
OK, so I used the corn starch in the bag method. After applying it to a flat plaque that I wanted to copy, I couldn't peel it back off. Now I have to disolve the silicone off my original. Would I need more corn starch or just spray on mold release?
Hi 600 miles. First, I want to apologize for not replying sooner. I did not get the notification. I answered this very same question and it is in the comments. Abdallah wanted to know. So, I am making another video wherein I will use release agents, as it seems that is something I could have included in the video. Unfortunately, most never watch more than 4 minutes, so putting in everything possible would most likely not be seen. Very few people watch the entire video. To answer your questions. I would not use a silicone based mold release. I tried it and it absorbed into the mold. What works for me are 2 things. PAM, a vegatable based cooking spray, and SOY WAX. Both can be washed off. Thanks for your comments. And subscribe for more upcoming videos. I have noted to include more information on possible trouble areas.
thanks for the ziplock bag tip! and your pourable silicone is the 1st one i have seen so far! i have a 20cm X 20cm wood filigree which i need to make a mold from. if i were to use the 1st method and make several batches of silicone mold to cover this big filigree part by part, would the seams be noticeable after they dry? or do i need to make the mold in 1 big batch? thanks!
It will likely have a small seem that you can fill with thinned that I demonstarted in the second part. I urge you to watch more of my other videos on the subject of silicone first, as they contain additional tips and tricks that will be a value to you. Particularity, the one on mold release recommendations.
hope your doing well sir. your lessons will be transferred to the younger generation. Its people like you who make the world go round. Kudos and god bless America!!!
I am thrilled you enjoy. I work hard to bring DIY entertainment to you. May God bless us all. I have a new video i hope you watch and enjoy. th-cam.com/video/conHcaliMik/w-d-xo.html
I have just completed a series on this, as many folks have asked for a skin safe and plastic safe method. Check here for my solution: th-cam.com/video/Ci28Y3Z3bYU/w-d-xo.html
Is there an alternative to naptha? We dont have those here, all we have is regular paint thinner, mineral spirit cost a lot since its used in oil painting Thanks!
I have a very large Angel Wings and I'm trying to duplicate them but I am very skeptical of what to put on them because they are huge and I am very scared that I will put something that I cannot remove. They were quite expensive and I do not want to ruin them. I have to for my front porch I need to duplicate them to make some for my backyard as well
Hi, I have a question, "I bought paint thinner put it into a small plastic beaker and the beaker started to melt, I did notice you used a glass bowl but poured the mix onto a plastic plate, does this mean the thinner looses its potency when mixed with the silicone? or have I bought the wrong type of thinner"?. I have lots of low odour spirit for plan B but would appreciate any advice about thinners its a new area for me and I feeling quite lost. I loved the no mess mixing in the plastic bag, super tip, Great video, enjoyed very much, thank you
Great questions. I would suggest that you use the ZipLock bag trick show here to mix. As for pouring onto the plate, it has no affect on the thinner or the mix. I peeled it off after it cured. If you need help, you can email me as ask as many questions as you need to get your project going. To answer your first question, yes, the plastic beaker was not something that you shoud use if it melted. I used glass, but I could not get the remains out and the glass bowl is wasted. As for advice on thinners, that would require more in depth discussion on your project and would suggest we continue via email. I will confirm I have my email in the description
My dog chewed some fancy base wood molding. Do you think a chunk of this would work, pressed up against a portion of Un-chewed wood, to create a mold for the repair?
Yes, you may use any hydrocarbon solvent. You may also use something I discovered that no one on YT has tried. Find that here: th-cam.com/video/Ci28Y3Z3bYU/w-d-xo.html
Loved this video. I especially appreciated no music so I could understand your instructions. I was wondering how I could use either method to make faux lemon/lime wedges so I can get the details from both sides and in a 2D version? Love to see a video on this. If you did a video how do I find it to view? I am already subscribed.
Thank you. I am thrilled you like. You may want to email me for this question, so we can work it out. I am not sure what the wedges will be made of, or the mold.Thank you for subscribing, that means I am giving you content of value. Once we work it out, I can most certainly make a video of the process.
I've been told that two-part resin will not set if used in a silicone/corn starch mold. Is this true? I'm trying to duplicate a small piece of molding on an antique mirror and I'd thought to make a mold like this, then pour resin into the mold.
It depends...a 2 part mold is all about getting air to the resin. Making the 2 part mold using cornstarch only has effect on the set time of the silicone mold. Consider temperature curing your part in the silicone mold. Good luck and stay tuned. This problem sounds interesting.
Might work better with a clear silicone so you can see how well the cornstarch is mixed through. Maybe cut the corner off AFTER you squeeze it all into the corner? I have used silicone caulk as a molding material for fiberglass. Mixing it with glycerine (cake decorating supplies) helps a thicker application dry.
Both are rated to 350 F once cured. Both would be considered flammable due to the fact both can be set on fire if a flame is held to them. The thinner evaporates, so it will not be flammable.
After going to 3 home stores, even pulling this video to show to staff, i can safely say the silicone you used is not available to me in the same recipe it was. So 3 questions: Q1: The same product, Dap, Windows and Doors label now reads 'Methanol and Ammonia released during cure' which I believe is a different type of Silicone altogether, Correct? Q2: If I were to substitute this product into your recipe, how would the process/end result change, or in another verbiage, why do you have to have Acetic Acid released specifically? Q3: Since I cannot find a 100% Silicone caulk that releases Acetic Acid during curing what would you use to thin it down to pourable consistency?
It has to be 100% silicone and the type where Acetic Acid is released in curing. Dap is just a brand name, your home center may offer another brand. The easy thing to do it look for the less expensive type and look on the back label to search for the words...Acetic Acid is evolved in curing. The type where Methanol and Ammonia are the catalyst will not work.
well here we are, ready to try the liquid pour method. i have my objects taped on the bottom so the detail side is facing up. they are sitting in a thin cardboard box waiting for the stuff to be poured on them. my question is, will the silicon release from the box or is that just going to be part of the finished mold after i the bottom off. AND that begs the question, am i going to be able to get some of the cardboard which will be in contact with the silicon off. or do i need to find myself a plastic container? thank you so much for your help!
So glad to hear from you again. I cover the preparation steps before pouring silicone to mold an item so you can release it here: th-cam.com/video/gJcTeh4GHA8/w-d-xo.html . I use wax for most applications. I have just completed a new series on using skin safe, PLA plastic safe and food contact safe non-solvent methods to thin silicone. I am sure you are concerned about the Naptha, as many are, so here is a solution: th-cam.com/video/Ci28Y3Z3bYU/w-d-xo.html
@@GEOsustainable oh this is way too complicated requiring things i do not have. i just want to make a mold of a rather detailed, small item. going to go back to silicon and cornstarch. thanks!
Does silicone bind to silicone? I want to make silicone molds using a silicone made ear plug and I'm worried I will not be getting it out of the mold after it cures
Appreciate the cautions you mention. Cloth being more flammable than the product alone. Did not know it should be watered down. I thought it would just evaporate. Thank you
Yes, the water will evaporate, while rendering the more flammable solvent inflammable, taking it with it. The cloth is more flammable with solvent on it because it volitalizes more easily as the cloth increases the surface area.
I did not remove it. Like a lot of folks, I forgot to use a mold release and it is never coming out. I don't mind saying as often as I get the chance...silicone is a superior adhesive.
Two questions, please. 1- Can I use mineral spirits to thin out the silicone? 2- I want to duplicate my wife's ivory bangle. I'm worried that it can react somehow with the curing acetic acid or any other chemical. Should I coat it in corn starch before putting it in the mold?
Yes, you can use low odor mineral spirits. Give it time for the smell to go out (even low odor has an odor). I will do another video on how to make Casein Ivory, so save your wifes brotch until then. You are correct, it is an acid and has the very slight potential to etch into the ivory. Let me do the Casein Ivory video to give you a safe way to duplicate her brotch. A good option, I can suggest you coat the brotch in wax before making the mold. A very thin coat will give a good replica without danger to the original. If you use soy wax, you can simply wash it off with soap.
You too. I am thrilled it helped you. All I do is turn on the camera and start talking. Only thing I ever released was my high school graduation speech. I was the Valedictorian. I must have got the gift of gab from my dad, everyone gathered around him.
Well, there you have it. I use 100% silicone. As I say in every video, look for the words 'acetic acid is evolved in curing' on the tube. All silicone is not the same, friend. I am afraid you have to start again using the correct type of silicone.
They will probably stick to each other, do a test first. You may want to use a Mold Release agent. I like to use Dawn dish soap as it is handy. I have a video for you to watch so you can learn how to use a Mold Release. th-cam.com/video/452y9FQ7a0M/w-d-xo.html
i tied to do a silicone in a tube and cornstarch. but something went wrong. i've seen people also use soap. was it beauce soap, cornstarch and bathroom silicone were used?
Correct, bathroom silicone will not work. You have to use 100% silicone, and look on the back, it has to have the MSDS statment saying ...Acetic Acid is evolved in curing. I did not like the soap method (too messy and I could not control the cure time) but, it does work.
@@GEOsustainable i could of sworn it said the plumming kind was pure. mine just came out like if silly putty and play dough had a baby. i think i'll just use it as a buffer/mattress for when i work with plasticne, or mold it into little critters, stick some fake eyes in it and cast it in resin (or just one big frog)
Thanks for this ! Can I mold a piece of wood with silicone corn starch? Or would it stick to the wood and won’t take the details of the little piece of wood?
Great question. Silicone will stick to wood very, very, very well. Silicone caulk was formulated to stick to wood. Silicone caulk is a superior adhesive. I posted a video to help you out. I recommend what mold release to use in the video. Watch here: th-cam.com/video/gJcTeh4GHA8/w-d-xo.html
Yes, thinned silicone is often used to make candles, even dinner/taper candles. There is usually a seam that you have to melt off (hot plate). Great question, as I have over a decade in the candle indutry
@@GEOsustainable Thank you for this video. Does the candle-making mean the silicone is heat resistant? I want to use it for poured sugar, which can get to 350-400F. (This is for things I want to cast for competition purposes so the mould doesn't need to be from food-grade silicone. Not sure if 100% silicone is food grade by definition anyway.) Thanks in advance. I'm excited to try this out!!
Would either mold be oven safe up to 200 degrees for wax casting? I would prefer to use the pourable formula but concerned about the flammability of solvent.
This type of silicone is rated to 350F, so it is safe at 200F. Do not allow direct heat. Give the new mold time for the solvent to evaporate, as it is very flammable. I gave mine about 3 weeks.
Great question. The type I use where Acetic acid is evolved has a working temperature of 350F. I use it in the oven every day. You can find silicone that can go as high as 600F. Check on the label.
I want to make dice molds and this video is helpful but I want know if I could use them to make Chocolat? (of course from another mold then I would pour my resin in it)
I am finally going to do this. I am a little scared honestly, but I have my respirator and I will do it outside. I could only find mineral spirits in California. My question is can you do the mixing of the spirits and the silicone in a plastic measuring cup or must it be in glass? Thanks and please wish me luck!
For the pourable mold- can coloring be added? If so, which kind? Food color, alcohol ink, powdered pigments,etc? Wasn’t sure if anything would react with the naphtha (that stuff scares me but oh the money saved!). Thanks for the video!
No friend. Silicone is a 'Thermoset' substance. Meaning, once the chemical process of curing has happened, it cannot be reversed. Try using some of the Casein formulas I demonstrate, as Casein is a Thermoplastic and can be remelted. I hope this helps, excellent question, and one I will cover in a future video. Thanks for watching.
Good video and decent presentation for the basics. Something that might help. A few drops of water or food color added to your mixture will stabilize setting process of your silicon materials. Your silicone isn't actually setting up with oxygen exposure. It responds to CO2. a catalyst reaction that takes place between the silicone compound and the cornstarch that will generate its own source of CO2 and expedite the process of setting your mold. If you want to make a two-part mold you'll make two equal sheets of this material , then dust it with a little bit of talcum powder on the surface on each piece, place your object that you want to mold between the two pieces , making sure to place the poured sides of silicone against your object you wish to mold. Punching a couple of dowels through the material will actually help you reassemble your mold accurately by acting as guide pins. You want to firmly press the material together starting from the middle and working your way out after your piece of shit between the two heads of your mold material. Give it about a half hour or so to just to be sure it is and you should be able to pry your pieces apart with a perfect mold in the center. You can then carve out a screw or a filling for in the location of you choosing.
I have a large mold and think I have enough tubes. However, If not, can fresh dough bond ok with cured silicone when I get more? Would bonding be possible with or without oil in the dough? Specifically, I am thinking of adding a little oil for additional flexibility. However, I get the impression that oil is used for release to prevent things from sticking to cured silicone but am unsure. Would including oil jeopardize the chance of fresh dough bonding with the cured silicone?
Great questions! Dough will not bond to silicone, but it will slow down the hardening considerably. It took a week to dry my dough in a silicone mold. Heat will speed this up. I did not use anything as a release agent for the dough and it popped right out. I honestly don't think you need it, and yes, oil will affect the dough, but corn starch or flour will not. Feel free to email me, link in the description, if you are still having trouble. Look here for my video on making dough. th-cam.com/video/aL5Liq7OaA4/w-d-xo.html And, yes, oil can be used as a release agent for silicone.
Yes, the Naptha will evolve out so your item will shrink. Silicone caulk straight from tube does not shrink. Do not thin with Naptha if shrinkage is important. I have solved this issue with shrinkage of thinned silicone here: th-cam.com/video/Ci28Y3Z3bYU/w-d-xo.html
@@GEOsustainable ok thanks, ive made alot of molds but with more like a paste then i found your vid but if it shrinks then ill stick to the paste that shrinks to but not as much
Yes, unfortunately, silicone mold will not work. Silicone burns at 350F, lead melts at 650F. To mold lead you need to use a refractory sand (green sand). I get this question a lot so I will make a video on how to pour lead and aluminum. Until then, look for videos on how to mold aluminum, this is what you need.
I am also thinking if you got dollar store plastic containers (have many sizes and use baby oil, or spray with non stick cooking spray, can buy at dollar store to spray inside so won't stick. You should also use corn starch to coat the item with. or something.
very good video...most informative that i have watched...i am not in america and naphta is a trade name not available here...i am assuming it is some form of paint stripper based on naphtalene...moth balls?...the paint stripper round here is extremly dangerous stuff...phenoels...and i am certainly not experimenting with such violent stuff....mineral turps is my best option...i am assuming the poeceedure is the same?...thanks for this vid...very good info
Mineral Turpentine will do just great. I have a series on silicone. You may want to check them out for options other than turp. One is so safe, I use it on my skin.
As far as I'm concerned, this is one of the best videos I've ever seen for making molds. I've never seen this particular method for making a thin pour mold and I appreciate that you have it here. This seems really useful for highly detailed items, but most of all, what a money saver compared to buying the mold making products! Thanks!
You are most welcome.
It would have been very helpful to see something that has been moulded into it though, to actually see the outcome. Thanks
I just bought 2 10ox 100% silicon tubes for $14. This is 1.5 times more expensive than 32oz of smooth-on from amazon.
@@MindBodySoulOk Well, then, let's hope that the viscosity of your smooth-on is just right, and let's hope you don't need to make many molds.
@@GEOsustainable I've made tons of molds with smooth-on, it works great. I wanted something cheaper, this isn't cheaper.
My favorite part was when he was trying to open the Naphtha and he said 'I'm going to get the jackhammer now'. Really gave me a chuckle...... Loved it!!
Yeah, over-kill the tool to open the cap that is over-kill on some sort of child or idiot safety? That blasted cap is the result of government regulation. You have to twist it hard and then pry off with a screwdriver. Way more dangerous than a screw cap. I miss the old days, when it was the responsibility of the adult to keep things out of reach. These days, the government thinks they need to do all the thinking. Win, win, win for governments. They get to regulate you, tax you for the privilege of regulating you, and spend your money giving jobs to people that like to regulate others. Anyway...I thought it was funny, so I just said it.
Thanks for not using LOUD music.
As an Curing Agent. Add about 1/4 teaspoon of Distilled Water to pure silicon, to your Pourable Mixture.. About 1 Teaspoon per Pound.
Mix the Silicon and Naptha first to the Pour stage, then add the water and Mix it in, Pour Quickly, as it will start to set up in a matter of Minutes.
it should cut the cure time by 3 quarters.. from 24 hours to less than 6.
Silicon needs moisture to cure. It normally absorbs it from the Air.
if you've seen the Dish Soap and Silicon mixture. The kneading is done in Distilled Water with dish soap.
The Dish soap just keeps it from sticking, It's the absorbed Water that speeds up the Cure time, not the Soap.
Thanks for sharing. I'll try it.
@Michael kilby Yes, the Distilled water speeds up the cure time. For the amount you were mixing, 1/4 teaspoon is I believe the correct amount.
the Silicon will adsorb it and cure faster.
Thanks man
Why "Distilled" water. Is it ok to just use tap water?
@@benju2438 free of contamination
I have watched tons of videos on here over many years and rarely ever make a comment..today I had to..I completely enjoyed this video tutorial..your voice is so calm quiet unlike many female voices and I found it actually soothing while watching..the instructions were so detailed, clearly stated..easy to follow, and well laid out..the comments on the chemicals what to do and not to do at the last tutorial were very well explained and why..many do not know these things and need to know before using if not an artist of many forms..everything in this video was well laid out,, step by step well prepared before and I look forward to seeing more of your videos..subscribed shared and thumbs up! Great way to save money on supplies that are very expensive when you can make your own that is very simple to do and does not take long at all. One of the best tutorials I have seen!
I am glad my content was helpful. Your kind words are very inspiring. Thank you.Have a look around, I have many helpful videos on silicone. And, my next one is also going to be on silicone. I also have a video about candle testing with covers how to do it safely. You may want to check it out.
I can't believe I found your video, this is exactly what I was looking for. Great and detailed step by step how to make a mold. 👍
I am glad you did, and that I am able to help. I have a few more on the subject of silicone. I hope you watch them, as silicone has a lot of interesting uses. And, I hope you share.
I've looked through so many videos for these silicone mixtures, and this is the only one with the solution that saves you from messing up the room, many thanks for that.
My pleasure, glad to help. Yes, you can use this method for not making a mess for many projects, not just silicone and corn starch. I try to mix all my chemistry this way. I have another one where I mix Naptha in a ZipLock. Works great too.
@Marilyn Dreamwalker Mejorado How is the result with bread flour?
Seriously, the pouring method is a game changer. I had never seen that technique, thank you!
I would like to make a mold of a foam statue it is about 12" x 18". Would i use this method or another. Sorry for the newb question
Sir how can I make more Hardened as well as elastic mould with different methods cuz the mould tear apart due to it's complexity,
I'm making mini sculptures this summer holidays as my school project 😋.
You may have to make a multi-part mold, with parting seams to aid in removal. I thin pour portions and use mold release between pours (sections). Cornstarch makes silicone stiff as silicone can possibly be. Elasticity can be modestly affected by adding Glycerine.
Can you use linseed oil? You said you could use a few different materials and i think i already have linseed oil on hand.
Linseed oil will work just fine. Cool question.
Will the Naptha mixture shrink?
As a mold made with the diy pouring silicone once the mold is made and set I it still flamable? Say I make a mold then use it for resin and need ro torch the bubbles while resin is setting, Is it possible?
Great questions. It takes quite some time for the Naptha is evaporate completely out, it has a smell 2 weeks later. So, caution. Once the thinner has gone out, the working temperature of silicone is 350F. Therefore, the flame of the torch WILL burn the silicone.
@@GEOsustainable so I'm my case I need to just buy the pre made pour silicone then. Ugh
@@EverydayArtByBrittanyGunter Use a hairdryer 👍
All silicone will burn if subjected to greater than 350F. Please, use caution.
very informative video, this! will non-acetic cure silicone cure slower than acetic cure silicone when mixed with corn flour? i've been using silicone for years. it's a wonder substance. only very recently i found a recipe to use it as a paint. for those who are interested, i found it described on youtube as making a seam sealer for tent seams. he suggested 1 to 1 ratio of silicone to mineral turps(a list of many other substances at the end of his video). i found 1 to 3 or 4 parts turps worked best for my uses as a paint on canvas or denim applied over holes in rusted leaky roofing gutters. hope this helps someone.
It sure does help! The non-acetic acid silicone cures (is rain ready in 30 minutes), so it is a bit faster than the less expensive kind (evolves acetic acid). You can include the link to the other video for those interested in checking it out. We are an inventor community here. Share away!
@@GEOsustainable, i don't know how to 'include the link'. i've seen 2 on the subject. one is called thinning silicone for seam sealing by franco darioli. the other i saw was make your own seam sealer by maxpatch67. there are others. just type in the subject and a plethora will appear.
@@vsvnrg3263 here we go. thanks for your help th-cam.com/video/0tCyT9p8Uys/w-d-xo.html is the link to Franco video
@@GEOsustainable that's so nice of you to include someone else's link.. thank you :)
Can this mould sustain high temperatures like that of molten lead? I want to make one for diving weights. Will this work for it ?
No, the working temperature of silicone is 350F (175C). What you need is a green sand mould. I am so glad you asked before attempting this.
Can I use glycerine instead of cornstarch
Sounds like a great next video. Yes, you can, but....it has to be fresh glycerine that has not absorbed moisture.
Hi again! Just to let you know my mould has worked a treat! I’m so pleased it’s saved me over ten pounds for something 1 inch in depth and 1.5 inch in diameter, plus now I know how to make any others I might need. I used the 100% silicone caulk and cornflour method with a tiny drop of cooking oil and a drop of acrylic paint to colour it. The mould was the little opaque glass tea light holder I mentioned and I oiled it lightly before pushing the mix into it. Smoothed the top out with a flat bottle top. May have missed a couple of spots! It was hard to extract so I used a strip cut from a plastic document wallet to run round the sides and free the 2 small spots that were stuck, then slid a kitchen knife between the strip of plastic and the glass and out it popped, perfect! Thanks for you help and advice 👍
Always glad to help.
Try using Vaseline thinned with naphta. Then brush or spray it onto your item. Let it dry. Leaves an even, super light thin coat of Vaseline behind!
OMG, the plastic bag! i made SUCH a mess trying this is a bowl with loose latex gloves. yuk. then i tried the silicone in soapy water. nope did not work.
the cornstarch method worked but it was SO messy i didn't want to try again, but here is this lovely fellow with a plastic bag! YAY!
I am glad you found value in my content. Thank you for your comment.
It's no doubt a great mess saver. I can't help but think of, a zillion of those bags in a heap. 😪
The bag is a good idea but I was having an anxiety attack watching him try to work it into the corner !! Must be one of those people that can't get any toothpaste out when the tube is still 1/4 full..😂🤣
Just lay the bag on the table and use anything as a straite edge to push every spec of the silicone where you want.. Just like a tube of toothpaste someone has squeezed with there whole hand leaving it full of toothpaste instead of laying it on the sink and simply starting from the opposite end flattening it towards the cap naturally pushing 100% of it out.. 👍🤣
Goodluck !!
( Its not meant to be a negative comment.. Good Vid)
With the pourable method, does the silicone stay flexible? I’m assuming so because it will be for a mold but just wanted to be sure.
Yes, it will stay flexible for at least 50 years.
@@GEOsustainable does the silicon is as stretchy as the original blend of it it more fragile?
@@simonsimon405 Great question. It remains stretchy as the original, and just as strong. No worries.
Hi, I've read that the mold shrink after the Naphtha dry out, really the size of the mold changes after a few weeks?
Great question. Yes it does shrink. It can shrink from 10 to 20%, depending on how much you thin it. I have not developed a formula to calculate shrinkage yet; but, as I get this question often, I think it is time to develop a chart folks can refer to. Thank you for your question, I will begin a series of trials for this.
On the solid mold, do you completely bury the item in the middle of the silicone and cut it out after it cures? It would be helpful to see a similar project to the end. I don't understand what comes next. Thank you.
I'll see what I can do. But, really, it is a matter of thinking it out for yourself. How would you do it? The way you describe it would work just great.
Interesting and informative. Looks like I'm going to be adding silicone and naptha to my craft supply list. Thank for sharing!
Excellent. Wonderful to hear that you found value in the video.
Oh, I got another idea/question... How about mixing in about half of the 1/4 cup (1/8- i know you know that, but just in case someone else wants to try it, and they fell asleep in math class a lot :)... with the silicone and as soon as that is blended uniformly, add the other half in and mix. I'm wondering if that will not only help with a better/easier blend, but more importantly, extend the dry time. Looks like every second counts with this AWESOME mix. Thanks for the info!
I like your other world thinking. I have worked out a formula I share in many of my videos for adjusting cure times. For you, a 10:1 will give 1 hour cure time. If you need more time than that, don't use any cornstarch.
Never saw the pourable silicone made before! Thanks! FYI, a tip cutter as well as a wire to break the tube seal are found on most caulking guns.😊
Well thanks. Consider subscribing and stay tuned as I plan to do a lot with silicone and mold making as we gear up to replace many one use oil based plastics with bioplastics. Good information, thanks for bringing that up. Yes, I have one and is something I too would recommend folks look for.
omg Nanci! thanks i didnt know why its used for this tool!
Do you think I could cast pewter or lead into these molds?
No, the working temperature of silicone is 350F.
Will a second layer of pourable silicone adhere to a first layer of portable silicone?
Yes, it will. Silicone sticks to silicone without a seam.
any reason you dont use your bag method to make the pourable mixture?
You can use a bag to do this. I did so in later videos. Here, I wanted to show the viscosity of the mix. Great question.
Naptha is called Shellite in Australia. Available at Bunnings
Thank you for making this and explaining the some science behind it
I am so glad that I was able to present content that you found helpful.
Thanks, it always burnt my butt at how high priced molds are and the kits is rediculously high too. I'd never seen such a cheap easy way to make the molds Thanks 🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹🌹
You are most welcome. Yes, I plan on showing folks alot of things that are silicone that we pay far too much for.
This video is interesting. May I know is the silicone caulk food grade. I want to use the mold for jelly making. Looking forward to your advise. Thank you.
I’m so appreciative that you showed how to open the tube of silicone!
thanks, I am glad you like my content.
Thanks for posting this video. Question, if you have a detailed part that you wish to make this mold of and then cast more of the same part, what can you use to coat the part so there is NO chance or the mold sticking to the Master part?
Great question, and I am so glad that you asked before attempting. I made a video on Mold Release recommendations. I strongly encourage you to watch. After watching, if you have any questions at all, leave a comment or contact me via email. Cheers and thanks for your question. th-cam.com/video/gJcTeh4GHA8/w-d-xo.html
I just bought some silicone & spent half a day siliconing the bloody holes in the roof & have some left... Hope it works BUT I also have been looking for a good way to make molds for resin & clay so thanks heaps for the video!
My pleasure. Check out a few of my upcoming videos on clay and silicone used for art.
Never heard of the DIY pourable silicone before. Did you come up with this idea? I used the Dow pourable silicon years ago so this seems like a good idea to me and have several questions if you don't mind. Is there a black color or just white and clear and which do you prefer - what would be a good release agent for 2-part molds - any idea what the shrinkage percent is, I suppose may vary with thinner amount - any idea what would be a good filler/bulker? The Dow Corning stuff was so expensive that I use to cut up reject molds in small pieces and just add it after mixing - worked great and extended the product. Thanks for sharing!
All great questions. There is a black color. I discuss mold release agaents in another video, look for the title mold release recommendations. yes, it depends on the amouny of thinner. I use cut up silicone also. I do not recommend anything else. Thanks for watching and subscribing.
I want to make molds for small cement shapes. Would the thinned out silicone hold up? Also, would the thinned silicone be brushable? I'm not in a hurry for them to cure.
Great questions. This will make perfect molds for pouring concrete shapes. The thinned silicone is just as durable as straight from the tube. If you thin it, allow for a bit of shrinkage.The cornstarch serves two purposes. One is to speed up cure time, and the other to to cure the silicone should the mold be very thick (more than 1/4" will not cure for months, so use the cornstarch). Yes, the thinned silicone will be brushable. I have a video showing how and give mold release recommendations. Check here: th-cam.com/video/gJcTeh4GHA8/w-d-xo.html
thank you
that was very helpful
i was trying to make a mold to cast epoxy
this might come in handy
My pleasure, and thank you for sharing your plan. Let us know how it works, please. Consider subscribing as I plan to do many more videos based on feedback and comments. Your idea sounds like something others would be interested in seeing me do.
Thanks for a screaming good video. I have never bothered with gloves or plastic bags. Just knead some 100% Silicone caulk with some corn starch until it starts to firm up, then make your mold.
I might suggest that people make sure your mold is thick enough to also endure you pulling and prying and maybe turning it inside out to get your molded part out. I usually make my molds in a container, sometimes a "Tupper-style" food container or one I fabricate myself out of a plastic milk carton, styrofoam fast food box or other handy scraps. That gives the mold a more uniform shape on the outside for uniform strength. Like when you use your mold, rub that outer container with a thin layer of vegetable oil, baby oil or other "mold release" first.
Awesome, thank you. I am glad you liked. I like your ideas. I made a video on mold release recommendations, and one on pouring. I hope you check them out. Here are the links. th-cam.com/video/gJcTeh4GHA8/w-d-xo.html th-cam.com/video/sIQkFVftDZU/w-d-xo.html
I should clarify - I knead it with a stick on a sheet of waxed paper.
I'm in the UK do you know what I could use in place of Naphtha? We have something called white spirits that jeeps coming up in my search but it says that's used for cleaning paintbrushes I have no idea what to buy. X
White Spirits is the same thing. Use with confidence. Thanks for your question.
super awesome, do you have any examples of cast items using the Pourable? What is the shrinkage like?
Yes, I do! I have just the video. Go to the playlist on Silicone Molds. You can find your information there.
OK, so I used the corn starch in the bag method. After applying it to a flat plaque that I wanted to copy, I couldn't peel it back off. Now I have to disolve the silicone off my original. Would I need more corn starch or just spray on mold release?
Hi 600 miles. First, I want to apologize for not replying sooner. I did not get the notification. I answered this very same question and it is in the comments. Abdallah wanted to know. So, I am making another video wherein I will use release agents, as it seems that is something I could have included in the video. Unfortunately, most never watch more than 4 minutes, so putting in everything possible would most likely not be seen. Very few people watch the entire video. To answer your questions. I would not use a silicone based mold release. I tried it and it absorbed into the mold. What works for me are 2 things. PAM, a vegatable based cooking spray, and SOY WAX. Both can be washed off. Thanks for your comments. And subscribe for more upcoming videos. I have noted to include more information on possible trouble areas.
Thank you so much for this! I have successfully created molds for a reasonable price!! Thank you!
Wonderful news. Thanks for sharing.
thanks for the ziplock bag tip! and your pourable silicone is the 1st one i have seen so far!
i have a 20cm X 20cm wood filigree which i need to make a mold from. if i were to use the 1st method and make several batches of silicone mold to cover this big filigree part by part, would the seams be noticeable after they dry? or do i need to make the mold in 1 big batch? thanks!
It will likely have a small seem that you can fill with thinned that I demonstarted in the second part. I urge you to watch more of my other videos on the subject of silicone first, as they contain additional tips and tricks that will be a value to you. Particularity, the one on mold release recommendations.
hope your doing well sir. your lessons will be transferred to the younger generation. Its people like you who make the world go round. Kudos and god bless America!!!
I am thrilled you enjoy. I work hard to bring DIY entertainment to you. May God bless us all. I have a new video i hope you watch and enjoy. th-cam.com/video/conHcaliMik/w-d-xo.html
Thank you for sharing your knowledge..I make polymer dolls ..would this work for that ? to make the heads
Yes, but watch my other videos on Silicone, as each one has information not addressed in this one. You are very welcome, it is my pleasure.
Any advice on cheap body safe silicone. I'm assuming the Lowe's silicone is likely not body safe.
I have just completed a series on this, as many folks have asked for a skin safe and plastic safe method. Check here for my solution:
th-cam.com/video/Ci28Y3Z3bYU/w-d-xo.html
@@GEOsustainable Thank you very much. Watching the video now. Also you just earned yourself self a subscriber.
Is there an alternative to naptha? We dont have those here, all we have is regular paint thinner, mineral spirit cost a lot since its used in oil painting
Thanks!
Paint thinner will work just fine. Consider subscribing as I will cover this and other thinners in upcoming videos.
@@GEOsustainable ok thanks!
I have a very large Angel Wings and I'm trying to duplicate them but I am very skeptical of what to put on them because they are huge and I am very scared that I will put something that I cannot remove. They were quite expensive and I do not want to ruin them. I have to for my front porch I need to duplicate them to make some for my backyard as well
Be very careful. Silisine is a superior adhesive.
Hi, I have a question, "I bought paint thinner put it into a small plastic beaker and the beaker started to melt, I did notice you used a glass bowl but poured the mix onto a plastic plate, does this mean the thinner looses its potency when mixed with the silicone? or have I bought the wrong type of thinner"?. I have lots of low odour spirit for plan B but would appreciate any advice about thinners its a new area for me and I feeling quite lost. I loved the no mess mixing in the plastic bag, super tip, Great video, enjoyed very much, thank you
Great questions. I would suggest that you use the ZipLock bag trick show here to mix. As for pouring onto the plate, it has no affect on the thinner or the mix. I peeled it off after it cured. If you need help, you can email me as ask as many questions as you need to get your project going. To answer your first question, yes, the plastic beaker was not something that you shoud use if it melted. I used glass, but I could not get the remains out and the glass bowl is wasted. As for advice on thinners, that would require more in depth discussion on your project and would suggest we continue via email. I will confirm I have my email in the description
@@GEOsustainable How kind of you to answer and so quickly, Thank you
My dog chewed some fancy base wood molding. Do you think a chunk of this would work, pressed up against a portion of Un-chewed wood, to create a mold for the repair?
It will. And you want to make sure you use a good mold release agent. I use Dawn. I show how to apply Dawn in my clay videos.
Can you use mineral spirits instead of naptha?
Yes, you may use any hydrocarbon solvent. You may also use something I discovered that no one on YT has tried. Find that here: th-cam.com/video/Ci28Y3Z3bYU/w-d-xo.html
would it not work better if you put the corn starch in first?
Loved this video. I especially appreciated no music so I could understand your instructions. I was wondering how I could use either method to make faux lemon/lime wedges so I can get the details from both sides and in a 2D version? Love to see a video on this. If you did a video how do I find it to view? I am already subscribed.
Thank you. I am thrilled you like. You may want to email me for this question, so we can work it out. I am not sure what the wedges will be made of, or the mold.Thank you for subscribing, that means I am giving you content of value. Once we work it out, I can most certainly make a video of the process.
@@GEOsustainablethank you for responding. Please give me your email address.
I've been told that two-part resin will not set if used in a silicone/corn starch mold. Is this true? I'm trying to duplicate a small piece of molding on an antique mirror and I'd thought to make a mold like this, then pour resin into the mold.
It depends...a 2 part mold is all about getting air to the resin. Making the 2 part mold using cornstarch only has effect on the set time of the silicone mold. Consider temperature curing your part in the silicone mold. Good luck and stay tuned. This problem sounds interesting.
Great ,detailed explanations. Thank you.
Would it be possible to pour the pouring silicone into a deep shape to make a 3 D dog??? Thank you
Might work better with a clear silicone so you can see how well the cornstarch is mixed through. Maybe cut the corner off AFTER you squeeze it all into the corner? I have used silicone caulk as a molding material for fiberglass. Mixing it with glycerine (cake decorating supplies) helps a thicker application dry.
Excellent ideas. Thank you for sharing with us. I'll pin this so others get to see it.
Howmuch glycerin have to use for 1 unit of silicon?
@@BabayagaEvi - Not much. For 1 tube I just used about 1-2 tablespoons. It also helps to coat the object with glycerine.
@@TodAG69 thank you. Silicone+glycerin only. I will try it.
And how clean my hands from this material??
will the thinned silicone be more flammable than the corn starch mix after its dried?
Both are rated to 350 F once cured. Both would be considered flammable due to the fact both can be set on fire if a flame is held to them. The thinner evaporates, so it will not be flammable.
After going to 3 home stores, even pulling this video to show to staff, i can safely say the silicone you used is not available to me in the same recipe it was. So 3 questions:
Q1: The same product, Dap, Windows and Doors label now reads 'Methanol and Ammonia released during cure' which I believe is a different type of Silicone altogether, Correct?
Q2: If I were to substitute this product into your recipe, how would the process/end result change, or in another verbiage, why do you have to have Acetic Acid released specifically?
Q3: Since I cannot find a 100% Silicone caulk that releases Acetic Acid during curing what would you use to thin it down to pourable consistency?
It has to be 100% silicone and the type where Acetic Acid is released in curing. Dap is just a brand name, your home center may offer another brand. The easy thing to do it look for the less expensive type and look on the back label to search for the words...Acetic Acid is evolved in curing. The type where Methanol and Ammonia are the catalyst will not work.
Thanks for the info mate... wondering if its possible to add another ingredient to make the resulting mould harder.
Never tried it.
Naptha isn't available in some states anymore, so what to do now?
Use any turpentine.
Awesome! Can I pour this into an ammunition box to mold the tips of ammo to keep the sides from hitting and making a rattling noise? That’s my goal.
Sounds like a good project. Thanks for sharing your idea.
Would Acetone work for thinning the silicone?
I have never tried so I can't say for sure.
@@GEOsustainable ok fair enough 👍🏻
well here we are, ready to try the liquid pour method. i have my objects taped on the bottom so the detail side is facing up. they are sitting in a thin cardboard box waiting for the stuff to be poured on them.
my question is, will the silicon release from the box or is that just going to be part of the finished mold after i the bottom off. AND that begs the question, am i going to be able to get some of the cardboard which will be in contact with the silicon off. or do i need to find myself a plastic container?
thank you so much for your help!
So glad to hear from you again. I cover the preparation steps before pouring silicone to mold an item so you can release it here:
th-cam.com/video/gJcTeh4GHA8/w-d-xo.html
. I use wax for most applications. I have just completed a new series on using skin safe, PLA plastic safe and food contact safe non-solvent methods to thin silicone. I am sure you are concerned about the Naptha, as many are, so here is a solution:
th-cam.com/video/Ci28Y3Z3bYU/w-d-xo.html
@@GEOsustainable oh this is way too complicated requiring things i do not have.
i just want to make a mold of a rather detailed, small item. going to go back to silicon and cornstarch.
thanks!
Can I use regular gas insted of white gas?
Read the description. It will answer your question. That is not a question I think I shall answer, as that is a highly regulated chemical.
You are so chill. Love it. Thanx for learning me up
Thank you for your comment. So glad you found this useful. Have fun.
is there any shrinkage in the silicone over time from using either of these techniques?
Silicone will remain the the state it is cast and remain flexible for 50 years. So, no shrinkage over time. Good question.
@@GEOsustainable thank you! i was planning on making molds for miniature models and didn't want the scale to change over time.
Thank you sppppp much. This is brilliant. I have searched for a way to pour silicone. You are the best.
I am so happy I can help you. I have a short series on making different things with silicone. I hope you check them out.
Does silicone bind to silicone? I want to make silicone molds using a silicone made ear plug and I'm worried I will not be getting it out of the mold after it cures
Silicone binds to silicone VERY well. Silicone is practically the ONLY thing that sticks to silicone.
Shit. Thanks
Can I use denatured alcohol?
Don't know. Give it a try.
Appreciate the cautions you mention. Cloth being more flammable than the product alone. Did not know it should be watered down. I thought it would just evaporate. Thank you
Yes, the water will evaporate, while rendering the more flammable solvent inflammable, taking it with it. The cloth is more flammable with solvent on it because it volitalizes more easily as the cloth increases the surface area.
i don't see you removing the mold from the round steel/aluminum can thing or the plastic plate?
I did not remove it. Like a lot of folks, I forgot to use a mold release and it is never coming out. I don't mind saying as often as I get the chance...silicone is a superior adhesive.
@@GEOsustainable :-)
Thank you sir !!! Finally a video I’ve been looking for.
You are most welcome. I am thrilled I have helped you.
Two questions, please.
1- Can I use mineral spirits to thin out the silicone?
2- I want to duplicate my wife's ivory bangle. I'm worried that it can react somehow with the curing acetic acid or any other chemical. Should I coat it in corn starch before putting it in the mold?
Yes, you can use low odor mineral spirits. Give it time for the smell to go out (even low odor has an odor).
I will do another video on how to make Casein Ivory, so save your wifes brotch until then. You are correct, it is an acid and has the very slight potential to etch into the ivory. Let me do the Casein Ivory video to give you a safe way to duplicate her brotch. A good option, I can suggest you coat the brotch in wax before making the mold. A very thin coat will give a good replica without danger to the original. If you use soy wax, you can simply wash it off with soap.
Thank you. I had no idea concerning the soy wax. I will definitely try that. Thank you.
Wonderfully informative and well made video thanks so much buddy! Hope you have a great 4th of July sir .
You too. I am thrilled it helped you. All I do is turn on the camera and start talking. Only thing I ever released was my high school graduation speech. I was the Valedictorian. I must have got the gift of gab from my dad, everyone gathered around him.
My silicon mould is not curing even it's two days. it's crumbling when small stress applied. I've used multipurpose silicon sealeant.
Well, there you have it. I use 100% silicone. As I say in every video, look for the words 'acetic acid is evolved in curing' on the tube. All silicone is not the same, friend. I am afraid you have to start again using the correct type of silicone.
I want to make a mold with silicone and pour liquid latex in the mold. Will these two stick together though?? And won’t be able to peal it off?
They will probably stick to each other, do a test first. You may want to use a Mold Release agent. I like to use Dawn dish soap as it is handy. I have a video for you to watch so you can learn how to use a Mold Release. th-cam.com/video/452y9FQ7a0M/w-d-xo.html
Would acetone work as a thinner?
Don't know, you can certainly try it.
i tied to do a silicone in a tube and cornstarch. but something went wrong. i've seen people also use soap. was it beauce soap, cornstarch and bathroom silicone were used?
Correct, bathroom silicone will not work. You have to use 100% silicone, and look on the back, it has to have the MSDS statment saying ...Acetic Acid is evolved in curing. I did not like the soap method (too messy and I could not control the cure time) but, it does work.
@@GEOsustainable i could of sworn it said the plumming kind was pure. mine just came out like if silly putty and play dough had a baby. i think i'll just use it as a buffer/mattress for when i work with plasticne, or mold it into little critters, stick some fake eyes in it and cast it in resin (or just one big frog)
@@kaiyodei Make a video. I think that may turn out cool.
Thanks for this ! Can I mold a piece of wood with silicone corn starch? Or would it stick to the wood and won’t take the details of the little piece of wood?
Great question. Silicone will stick to wood very, very, very well. Silicone caulk was formulated to stick to wood. Silicone caulk is a superior adhesive. I posted a video to help you out. I recommend what mold release to use in the video. Watch here: th-cam.com/video/gJcTeh4GHA8/w-d-xo.html
Could the pouring silicon be used to make molds for candles? Thank you for your video!
Yes, thinned silicone is often used to make candles, even dinner/taper candles. There is usually a seam that you have to melt off (hot plate). Great question, as I have over a decade in the candle indutry
GEO-sustainable thank you for your quick response 👍🏻
@@faystrachan6440 I have begun a series on candle making. In the series, I plan to make molds for candles. Check them out.
@@GEOsustainable I certainly will. 👍
@@GEOsustainable Thank you for this video. Does the candle-making mean the silicone is heat resistant? I want to use it for poured sugar, which can get to 350-400F. (This is for things I want to cast for competition purposes so the mould doesn't need to be from food-grade silicone. Not sure if 100% silicone is food grade by definition anyway.) Thanks in advance. I'm excited to try this out!!
Naptha is lighter fluid. The same thing you put in a zippo lighter. It’s very flammable.
Yes, exactly. Thanks for sharing. Most folks don't know this.
Can I use potato starch instead of corn starch? Thanks.
I don't know. But here in America, potato starch is hard to find; it is simply not used for anything. Cornstarch is safe and effective.
Would either mold be oven safe up to 200 degrees for wax casting? I would prefer to use the pourable formula but concerned about the flammability of solvent.
This type of silicone is rated to 350F, so it is safe at 200F. Do not allow direct heat. Give the new mold time for the solvent to evaporate, as it is very flammable. I gave mine about 3 weeks.
Thank-you! A very easy video to watch. I lol'd at "but, I do have a wire nut."
Thank you for watching. I do like to be corny every chance I get. Glad I made you LOL.
Are there any alternative for naptha? like can you use a paint thinner or acetone? I dont think we have naptha in my local Depot.
yes, I made many other videos to cover those questions. I give you lots of alternatives and ideas in my later videos.
Great video! Can the pour able one go into the oven?
Great question. The type I use where Acetic acid is evolved has a working temperature of 350F. I use it in the oven every day. You can find silicone that can go as high as 600F. Check on the label.
I want to make dice molds and this video is helpful but I want know if I could use them to make Chocolat? (of course from another mold then I would pour my resin in it)
This will work for both dice and chocolate.
Thank you so much ^^ for the answer and the reply I'm going to give u an Abo and will watch future videos ❤️
Is this able to be used as food safe molds as well or no?
No, but this video I make food safe mold. Watch here th-cam.com/video/Ci28Y3Z3bYU/w-d-xo.html
I am finally going to do this. I am a little scared honestly, but I have my respirator and I will do it outside. I could only find mineral spirits in California. My question is can you do the mixing of the spirits and the silicone in a plastic measuring cup or must it be in glass? Thanks and please wish me luck!
ZipLock bags are chemically inert, so mix in it, like I did in the video.
can we use paint thinner in place of minerall spirit, please answer
Yes, they are the same thing, with different names.
For the pourable mold- can coloring be added? If so, which kind? Food color, alcohol ink, powdered pigments,etc? Wasn’t sure if anything would react with the naphtha (that stuff scares me but oh the money saved!). Thanks for the video!
Yes, I made a video on how to color silicone. Check it out here: th-cam.com/video/S5ChHwiXRl0/w-d-xo.html
Can either the pourable or non-pourable mold material be re-heated and melted and re-used ?
No friend. Silicone is a 'Thermoset' substance. Meaning, once the chemical process of curing has happened, it cannot be reversed. Try using some of the Casein formulas I demonstrate, as Casein is a Thermoplastic and can be remelted.
I hope this helps, excellent question, and one I will cover in a future video. Thanks for watching.
Good video and decent presentation for the basics. Something that might help. A few drops of water or food color added to your mixture will stabilize setting process of your silicon materials. Your silicone isn't actually setting up with oxygen exposure. It responds to CO2. a catalyst reaction that takes place between the silicone compound and the cornstarch that will generate its own source of CO2 and expedite the process of setting your mold. If you want to make a two-part mold you'll make two equal sheets of this material , then dust it with a little bit of talcum powder on the surface on each piece, place your object that you want to mold between the two pieces , making sure to place the poured sides of silicone against your object you wish to mold. Punching a couple of dowels through the material will actually help you reassemble your mold accurately by acting as guide pins. You want to firmly press the material together starting from the middle and working your way out after your piece of shit between the two heads of your mold material. Give it about a half hour or so to just to be sure it is and you should be able to pry your pieces apart with a perfect mold in the center. You can then carve out a screw or a filling for in the location of you choosing.
I have a large mold and think I have enough tubes. However, If not, can fresh dough bond ok with cured silicone when I get more? Would bonding be possible with or without oil in the dough?
Specifically, I am thinking of adding a little oil for additional flexibility. However, I get the impression that oil is used for release to prevent things from sticking to cured silicone but am unsure. Would including oil jeopardize the chance of fresh dough bonding with the cured silicone?
Great questions! Dough will not bond to silicone, but it will slow down the hardening considerably. It took a week to dry my dough in a silicone mold. Heat will speed this up. I did not use anything as a release agent for the dough and it popped right out. I honestly don't think you need it, and yes, oil will affect the dough, but corn starch or flour will not. Feel free to email me, link in the description, if you are still having trouble. Look here for my video on making dough. th-cam.com/video/aL5Liq7OaA4/w-d-xo.html And, yes, oil can be used as a release agent for silicone.
does the one with lots of naptha shrink much?
Yes, the Naptha will evolve out so your item will shrink. Silicone caulk straight from tube does not shrink. Do not thin with Naptha if shrinkage is important. I have solved this issue with shrinkage of thinned silicone here:
th-cam.com/video/Ci28Y3Z3bYU/w-d-xo.html
@@GEOsustainable ok thanks, ive made alot of molds but with more like a paste then i found your vid but if it shrinks then ill stick to the paste that shrinks to but not as much
What's the difference between silicone 1 vs 2 and what is safer ?
I have gotten this question a few times. So, I will be producing a video on this subject.
HI, this is great information, well filmed and easy to understand. I am looking for silicone recipe to make molds to pour lead into - any ideas?
Yes, unfortunately, silicone mold will not work. Silicone burns at 350F, lead melts at 650F. To mold lead you need to use a refractory sand (green sand). I get this question a lot so I will make a video on how to pour lead and aluminum. Until then, look for videos on how to mold aluminum, this is what you need.
Would a rubbing alcohol work in place of Naptha?
Great question. I posted a video on this.
th-cam.com/video/bOn1cOIVZuk/w-d-xo.html
And, you may want to save your alcohol for sanitizing, as it is impossible to find in the store right now.
I am also thinking if you got dollar store plastic containers (have many sizes and use baby oil, or spray with non stick cooking spray, can buy at dollar store to spray inside so won't stick. You should also use corn starch to coat the item with. or something.
Yep, all will work. I use wax and made a video on mold release recommendations. Watch here. th-cam.com/video/gJcTeh4GHA8/w-d-xo.html
very good video...most informative that i have watched...i am not in america and naphta is a trade name not available here...i am assuming it is some form of paint stripper based on naphtalene...moth balls?...the paint stripper round here is extremly dangerous stuff...phenoels...and i am certainly not experimenting with such violent stuff....mineral turps is my best option...i am assuming the poeceedure is the same?...thanks for this vid...very good info
Mineral Turpentine will do just great. I have a series on silicone. You may want to check them out for options other than turp. One is so safe, I use it on my skin.
why not add the naptha and silicone in a blender?
you will ruin your blender.
Not to mention possible sparks that could make the entire thing catch fire! Electrical fires are not fun either!
Can I use this molds for resin or not??
yes