On mid-50's passenger cars it can be a hassle if guys are not paying attention to the TDC thing and the oil pan. It looks real simple just to remove all the bolts and disconnect the oil supply tube, but as you know - the oil pan will hang up quick on one of the crankshaft throws and you cannot get it out. I also have to remove the front sway bar - keeps the gasket from sliding off and all.
Regardless of building cars since 1968 and 30 solid years aerospace machining skills no matter how perfectly flat, perfectly sanitary, perfectly applied perfect sealants with perfect gaskets tightened perfectly my yblocks and FEs still drip after couple of years. Carboard diapers solved it. Mr. Engine Builder sed cars not driven regularly gain water and acids in the oil. Down draft tubes and pcv valves don't suck near enough. After solving a super charged yblock crankcase venting with 3/8 tubing from the valley pan to a venturi nozzle in the exhaust pipe aft of a muffler worked so good I did that on my other engines. BTW 10 years ago was going to stop building cars because I couldn't get off the floor anymore. Ramp lift took all the pain out so still building them, should have got it 30 years ago.
I get it about the lift - would love to have one when we purchase a home out here in California; have looked a few places where that may be a possibility. On the crankcase venting to the exhaust pipe - this does intrigue me. Did you use rubber hose all the way back, a hard line like a 3/8" steel fuel line and a bung at the pipe or what?
@@HotRodReverend Soft copper tubing but any would work. Put a simple 90 degree brass barb in the valley pan. I shape the venturi nozzle like a tear drop from thin wall metal tubing with Z shape tube out the exhaust pipe with a simple flange plate and attach copper tube to it with short fuel hose. Need fit tests to find proper Z to go in exhaust pipe hole but not too difficult in 2.5" exhausts. Can feel the suction even at idle. I don't use breather type filler caps and hoped it would slow the leaks but not that lucky. No idea how others vacuum their pumped induction engines. My garage is 11' ceiling which still allows a 57 bird on top and 57 ranchero under. I even put cars on the lift just to clean the wheels and the bendpak is so strong it doesn't need bolts to the floor. I also installed a jib crane that swings over the lift. I never liked those little engine pickers.
![เปิดใจ "อาจารย์เบียร์ คนตื่นธรรม" อดีตเคยสุดทุกทาง ถ้าใช้หนี้หมดไปบวชแน่ l [Nickynachat]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IxeE0xVhy08/mqdefault.jpg)
Great video Reverend👍👍 awesome teaching the TDC on #1 to clear the pan removal when in car✅
On mid-50's passenger cars it can be a hassle if guys are not paying attention to the TDC thing and the oil pan. It looks real simple just to remove all the bolts and disconnect the oil supply tube, but as you know - the oil pan will hang up quick on one of the crankshaft throws and you cannot get it out. I also have to remove the front sway bar - keeps the gasket from sliding off and all.
Regardless of building cars since 1968 and 30 solid years aerospace machining skills no matter how perfectly flat, perfectly sanitary, perfectly applied perfect sealants with perfect gaskets tightened perfectly my yblocks and FEs still drip after couple of years. Carboard diapers solved it. Mr. Engine Builder sed cars not driven regularly gain water and acids in the oil. Down draft tubes and pcv valves don't suck near enough. After solving a super charged yblock crankcase venting with 3/8 tubing from the valley pan to a venturi nozzle in the exhaust pipe aft of a muffler worked so good I did that on my other engines. BTW 10 years ago was going to stop building cars because I couldn't get off the floor anymore. Ramp lift took all the pain out so still building them, should have got it 30 years ago.
I get it about the lift - would love to have one when we purchase a home out here in California; have looked a few places where that may be a possibility. On the crankcase venting to the exhaust pipe - this does intrigue me. Did you use rubber hose all the way back, a hard line like a 3/8" steel fuel line and a bung at the pipe or what?
@@HotRodReverend Soft copper tubing but any would work. Put a simple 90 degree brass barb in the valley pan. I shape the venturi nozzle like a tear drop from thin wall metal tubing with Z shape tube out the exhaust pipe with a simple flange plate and attach copper tube to it with short fuel hose. Need fit tests to find proper Z to go in exhaust pipe hole but not too difficult in 2.5" exhausts. Can feel the suction even at idle. I don't use breather type filler caps and hoped it would slow the leaks but not that lucky. No idea how others vacuum their pumped induction engines. My garage is 11' ceiling which still allows a 57 bird on top and 57 ranchero under. I even put cars on the lift just to clean the wheels and the bendpak is so strong it doesn't need bolts to the floor. I also installed a jib crane that swings over the lift. I never liked those little engine pickers.
thumbs up thanks
Great info! Was also curious if a Heli-coil would be a suitable repair for that, and just use O.E. style stud back in its place?
A Heli-coil would do it, I'm sure. But, the price of the stud was a whole lot cheaper :>)
@@HotRodReverend and I'd imagine you've got much better thread engagement going up 1 size too!